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BeatRoute Magazine B.C. print e-edition - May 2016

BeatRoute Magazine is a monthly arts and entertainment paper based in Western Canada with a predominant focus on music – local, independent or otherwise.

BeatRoute Magazine is a monthly arts and entertainment paper based in Western Canada with a predominant focus on music – local, independent or otherwise.

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THE HEATLEY<br />

a place for the people<br />

Somewhere on the terrace of a little<br />

Parisian café, a stunning brownhaired<br />

couple laughs demurely over<br />

tiny steaks of seared tuna. The sun trickles<br />

down on them, it’s 1:30 p.m. and lunch<br />

is just winding down. With the arrival of<br />

an early summer in Vancouver, as well<br />

as the opening of lunch service at Hastings<br />

Sunrise’s Bistro Wagon Rouge, this<br />

vignette is one you can spin into reality.<br />

On a ridiculously warm Wednesday in<br />

April, we visited the blue-collar French<br />

spot to see what it was like living midday<br />

en francais. Your first step journeying<br />

into a Parisian café lifestyle starts with<br />

seating choice, so if you can, try to nab<br />

a spot by the window so the sun can<br />

drench you and passersby can ogle at your<br />

classic beauty as they go on their way.<br />

The sun is hot and dehydration is<br />

serious, so order yourself the house’s<br />

signature cocktail — a mix of gin and<br />

photo: Michael Brennon<br />

The Heatley is truly a DIY effort, down to the very last chair.<br />

BISTRO WAGON ROUGE<br />

a European daydream<br />

It’s not uncommon to see the transition<br />

made from the music industry to<br />

the restaurant/bar industry. They are<br />

both integral parts of the entertainment<br />

world and the pairing of music to dining<br />

is unequivocally important. If you’ve ever<br />

thought about opening up your own bar,<br />

you’ve probably have had a few conversations<br />

with your buddies over what your<br />

menu, ambience, and theme should be.<br />

But what would it actually take?<br />

Michael Brennon has the answer.<br />

Brennon is the owner and creative<br />

mind behind Strathcona’s The Heatley,<br />

a restaurant and bar located on Hastings<br />

and, you guessed it, Heatley.<br />

Originally finding his roots in rock<br />

music, jack-of-all-trades Brennon has<br />

done what most of us only talk about over<br />

coffee. Moving from tour life to kitchen life<br />

in Toronto, he lent his culinary talents to a<br />

number of projects before making his way<br />

lavender lemonade known affectionately<br />

as The Wagon Rouge to keep yourself<br />

from getting parched. In Europe, there’s no<br />

drinking without eating, which means it’s<br />

pâté time. House-made with chicken liver<br />

and pork fat, Bistro Wagon Rouge’s version<br />

is served alongside crostinis, pickled<br />

vegetables and French mustard. This is the<br />

point in the meal where you revel in the<br />

blissful act of eating pâté smack dab in the<br />

middle of the day. This is what makes life<br />

worth living. Going to a French restaurant<br />

without ordering salade niçoise or moule<br />

et frites is basically a criminal act, so try<br />

to keep your wits about you. Five gorgeous<br />

steaks of tuna will arrive on a bed<br />

of potatoes and greens, a perfectly boiled<br />

egg on either side of the dish, and everything<br />

is covered in tapenade dressing.<br />

Bistro Wagon Rouge’s take on salad<br />

niçoise is fresh and light. It’s rumoured that<br />

lightly seasoned veg and lean protein are<br />

to the West Coast. Between a few notable<br />

positions (one of which being sous chef<br />

at The Alibi Room), Brennon worked as a<br />

mental health practitioner and helped with<br />

housing and clinical day programs for the<br />

disabled. Somewhere in this journey, he<br />

also became a wood worker and handyman<br />

— conceptual rivers that all flowed<br />

into what became the idea for The Heatley.<br />

Before Brennon got his hands on the<br />

restaurant, the space was divided into<br />

a hardware store and a paint shop. He<br />

drew up plans, knocked the wall down,<br />

and set to work building his vision<br />

from the ground up. “Once I got started<br />

building, I realized that I couldn’t really<br />

go out and start buying stuff, because<br />

it just wouldn’t fit,” Brennon says. So,<br />

he handcrafted all the furniture in the<br />

establishment, from stool to bar top. This<br />

is the attitude that exemplifies someone<br />

committed to his own creation. And<br />

what give the French their natural glow,<br />

so check yourself for a je ne sais quoi in<br />

the mirror when you’re finished. Right<br />

when you think the afternoon couldn’t get<br />

better, you’re staring a plate of mussels<br />

in tomato and white wine broth right in<br />

the face. You forget ketchup even exists<br />

as you lovingly dip your fries in mayo.<br />

Croutons sprinkled on top of the dish<br />

absorb the broth beautifully, with every<br />

muscle you are reminded why you love<br />

the sea. Campbell’s single serving soup<br />

cups eaten in the murky depths of a dreary<br />

staff room just won’t cut it anymore. You<br />

only have one life to live. Let that life be<br />

full of luxury at noon. Don’t forget to ask<br />

your server for a digestif at the end. Sip it<br />

thoughtfully because dreams do come true.<br />

Bistro Wagon Rouge is open for<br />

lunch Wednesday through Friday<br />

from 11AM to 2:30PM<br />

by Fraser Marshall-Glew<br />

although it truly is by his own blood<br />

sweat and tears that we are able to enjoy<br />

such a place, it is all for the people.<br />

The Heatley’s neighbourly vibe is<br />

reflected in its menu, which offers<br />

laid-back fare like macaroni and cheese,<br />

hot dogs, and baked s’mores. The beer<br />

is great too, and pairs perfectly with<br />

weekly music nights like bluegrass<br />

Sundays and mullet Mondays (which<br />

features a playlist of hard rock).<br />

“Truthfully, I have very little interest<br />

in readers polls or awards,” Brennon<br />

stresses. “I really just wanted the<br />

people to define the feel of this place<br />

and I do what I can to facilitate that.”<br />

A refreshing attitude in what can<br />

undoubtedly be a trend-following city.<br />

The Heatley is located at 696 East<br />

Hastings Street and is open Monday -<br />

Sunday from 11:00 a.m. - 12:30 a.m.<br />

French cuisine from the people behind The Red Wagon.<br />

by <strong>May</strong>a-Roisin Slater<br />

22 CITY<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2016</strong>

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