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Webinar #1<br />

Getting Started<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Lettering & Editing Webinar Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Screen Overview<br />

Toolbars<br />

Main Bar<br />

Color Palette<br />

View Bar<br />

Dynamic Properties Bar<br />

View Window<br />

Input Toolbar<br />

Zoom Bar<br />

Scale/Status Bar<br />

Slow Redraw Bar<br />

DSV9_WO1_Getting_Started.pub 2 Rev: 06/03/09


Project View: Managing Your Elements<br />

Project Tab<br />

The Tabs<br />

Stitches Tab<br />

Navigator Tab<br />

The Levels<br />

Project Level<br />

Design Level<br />

Color Level<br />

Element Level<br />

Point Level<br />

DSV9_WO1_Getting_Started.pub 3 Rev: 06/03/09


Navigating Through The Workspace & A Design<br />

Selecting Elements<br />

Scaling Elements<br />

Rotating Elements<br />

Shift to scale proportionally<br />

ALT to scale center > out<br />

Shift to select multiple<br />

consecutive elements<br />

CTRL to select multiple nonconsecutive<br />

elements<br />

Zoom Functions<br />

DSV9_WO1_Getting_Started.pub 4 Rev: 06/03/09


Managing Colors<br />

Current Color<br />

Design Colors<br />

(Active Colors)<br />

Color Palette<br />

Background<br />

Color<br />

Current Color<br />

Background Color<br />

Design Colors (Active Colors)<br />

• List of colors currently being used in the<br />

design<br />

• Changing Colors<br />

• Right-click > edit color to<br />

change color of that swatch<br />

• Click and drag a swatch from<br />

the Palette to Design Colors<br />

• Right-click > Show/Hide (others/all)<br />

• Locked colors allow colors to remain in<br />

the active colors even when they are<br />

not currently in use.<br />

Color Palette<br />

• A small selection of available colors.<br />

• Right-click > Edit Color to change the<br />

color of that swatch<br />

Color Level in the Project View<br />

• Right-click on the color group> Color…<br />

to change thread color<br />

OR<br />

• Select the color group, click on the desired<br />

color from either the active colors<br />

or the color palette.<br />

Element Level<br />

• Color information is stored at the element<br />

level.<br />

• Changing the color of an element<br />

• Select the element(s) > click on<br />

the desired color swatch<br />

OR<br />

• Select the element(s) > Rightclick<br />

> Color…<br />

• The elements change color<br />

while all other elements remain<br />

DSV9_WO1_Getting_Started.pub 5 Rev: 06/03/09


Getting the Most<br />

From the Help System<br />

DesignShop V9 & AMAYA OS V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Accessing the Help System<br />

The help system contains the most current manuals for AMAYA OS or DesignShop.<br />

To access the help systems in either program, you can choose one of two ways.<br />

1. You could click on the “Help” drop-down on the<br />

menu bar and then select “Help Topics”<br />

OR<br />

2. Click on the Help Topics [?] icon on the main toolbar.<br />

Once opened, the help systems will look like this.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Help.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Navigating the Help System<br />

Quick Links to various topics are contained within<br />

the middle red area of the screen.<br />

The Contents Tab is located on the left side of the<br />

screen, and contains the subjects within the help system.<br />

This is similar to the table of contents in books. Some subjects<br />

are grouped within folders. To view these, click on<br />

the [+] beside the folder or double click on the folder to<br />

expand it. Once you’ve found your topic, simply click on<br />

the topic to have it displayed in the window on the right.<br />

The Index Tab is an alphabetical listing of every feature<br />

in DesignShop. This is like the index in the back<br />

of many reference books. To display the information<br />

about a feature, double-click on the name of<br />

the feature, or select the topic and click on the<br />

“Display” button at the bottom of the window.<br />

The Search Tab is used to search for a specific<br />

topic. When a word is entered in the type field, a list of<br />

closely matched topics is displayed. Double-click on<br />

the topic to display the information.<br />

The controls on the upper left of the Help System<br />

window allow you to hide or show the Content, Index,<br />

and Search tabs. “Back” allows you to return<br />

to the previously displayed topics. “Print” will print a<br />

topic or an entire section.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Help.pub 3 Rev: 04/28/09


Help System Videos<br />

Many topics have a video clip to complement<br />

the written explanation. To access the<br />

videos, click on the film reel icon. This will<br />

launch the video in a player.<br />

Other Help System Information<br />

To exit the Help System, click on the “X” in the red<br />

box on the upper right corner of the window.<br />

“About DesignShop” located under the “Help”<br />

drop-down, will open a dialog box containing<br />

information about your level of software as well<br />

as the software version number.<br />

9.00.???<br />

Web Links are also available under the<br />

“Help” drop-down. To access these, an internet<br />

connection is required.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Help.pub 4 Rev: 04/28/09


Webinar #2<br />

Basic Lettering<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Lettering & Editing Webinar Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Creating a Lettering Segment<br />

1. Select the lettering tool by clicking on the [A]<br />

2. Choose your settings on the Dynamic Property Bar<br />

3. Click in the view window where you want the<br />

lettering segment to appear.<br />

1.<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

4. Type your desired text on screen.<br />

5. Press [Enter] to complete the lettering segment<br />

[Ctrl] + [Enter] = Carriage return<br />

OR<br />

1. Select the lettering tool<br />

2. Click in the view window where you want the lettering<br />

3. Press [Enter] to go directly to properties.<br />

4. Click within the lettering box.<br />

5. Type your desired text in the box.<br />

6. Click “Apply” to see the text appear on screen.<br />

DSV9_WO2_Basic_Lettering.pub 2 Rev: 05/11/09


Lettering Properties<br />

Alphabet<br />

• Embroidery Alphabets (EA)<br />

• Code sheets<br />

• Operator Alphabets (OA)<br />

• True Type (TT)<br />

Letters<br />

Height, Width, & Slant Angle<br />

Kerning Marks & Trims<br />

DSV9_WO2_Basic_Lettering.pub 3 Rev: 05/11/09


On Screen Manipulation of Lettering<br />

Kerning<br />

Click on the handle of the<br />

letter and drag along the<br />

baseline.<br />

Holding [CTRL] while dragging<br />

will allow the letter to<br />

move off of the baseline<br />

Scaling<br />

Shift locks the aspect ratio<br />

while scaling<br />

Alt scales from the center<br />

out<br />

Rotate/Slant/Skew<br />

Letters (continued)<br />

As Digitized<br />

Connection Type<br />

Justification and Stitch Orders<br />

Justification<br />

Bottom Connect<br />

Horizontal Stitch Order<br />

Closest Point<br />

(CP)<br />

Vertical Stitch Order<br />

DSV9_WO2_Basic_Lettering.pub 4 Rev: 05/11/09


Line Types<br />

Straight<br />

Vertical<br />

Arc<br />

• Radius<br />

• Angle<br />

• Clockwise versus Counter Clockwise<br />

• Changing radius & angle graphically<br />

• Hold alt to snap to 15° increments<br />

Custom<br />

• Adding points along the baseline<br />

• Straight points (left click) = triangle<br />

• Curve points (right click) = circle<br />

Perspective<br />

• Moving points creates a linear perspective<br />

and adds the illusion of depth.<br />

• Points can be added and moved to<br />

change shape.<br />

Envelope<br />

• Points can be added and moved to<br />

change shape.<br />

• Will affect letters evenly – no linear perspective.<br />

• Scale to Fit squishes or stretches the<br />

current lettering to fit the shape created<br />

by the envelope.<br />

DSV9_WO2_Basic_Lettering.pub 5 Rev: 05/11/09


Spacing<br />

Auto Kern<br />

• Adjusts the spacing between<br />

each pair of letters to be a<br />

specified percentage of the<br />

letter height.<br />

Line Spacing<br />

• Adjusts the spacing between<br />

lines of type<br />

Horizontal Spacing<br />

• Adjusts the spacing between<br />

all the letters<br />

Vertical Spacing<br />

• Adjust the spacing between<br />

letters to create a stair-step<br />

effect<br />

Word Spacing<br />

• Adjusts the spacing between<br />

words to be a specified percentage<br />

of the height.<br />

Changing the Color of Letters<br />

Text: RAINBOW<br />

Alphabet: (OA) Curly<br />

Height: 1.0”<br />

1. Create a lettering segment with the<br />

above properties.<br />

2. Select the lettering segment.<br />

3. Select the letter you wish to change the color<br />

of by clicking on the handle of the letter.<br />

4. Click on the color palette color swatch of<br />

the color you wish the letter to become.<br />

5. Continue with the rest of the letters<br />

DSV9_WO2_Basic_Lettering.pub 6 Rev: 05/11/09


Quick Reference<br />

Guide Lettering V9<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 1 Rev: 4/16/09


Icon Identification<br />

1. Edit Mode – to deselect elements, click on a blank area of your screen.<br />

2. Pointer over element – you can move an element.<br />

3. The eight black boxes around an element are scaling boxes. The four corner<br />

boxes scale vertical and horizontal. The middle boxes scale just vertical or<br />

horizontal.<br />

4. The open boxes around an element are rotating or skewing boxes.<br />

5. Slant angle on screen – click on the center hollowed out box and drag left or<br />

right.<br />

6. Pointer over a digitized straight input point.<br />

• Select an input point , click on it - it will become filled in<br />

7. Pointer over a digitized curve input point.<br />

• Select an input point , click on it - it will become filled in<br />

8. Pointer over any wireframe line. Left click to add straight input points. Right<br />

click to add curve input points.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 2 Rev: 4/16/09


Lettering<br />

Create a lettering element<br />

1. Click on the lettering tool on the input toolbar.<br />

2. Left click on the screen workspace (View Window) where you want your lettering<br />

text to appear (notice the cursor arrow has an A attached to it).<br />

3. A flashing cursor is displayed on your screen.<br />

4. Start typing your text.<br />

5. Press the Enter Key (on the key board) when finished with text.<br />

OR<br />

6. Click on the lettering tool on the input toolbar.<br />

7. Left click on the screen workspace (View Window) where you want your lettering<br />

text to appear (notice the cursor arrow has an A attached to it).<br />

8. Press the enter key on the keypad to go directly to the properties dialog box.<br />

9. Type your lettering in the text box then click on “Apply” or “OK”.<br />

Re-opening a lettering element properties box<br />

1. With the selection tool, double-click on the text.<br />

2. The Object Properties Box will appear.<br />

3. Make the changes; click on the desired tabs if needed.<br />

4. Click OK.<br />

Positioning the lettering element<br />

1. Select the text you want to move on the screen by placing your mouse on the<br />

center of that text.<br />

*NOTE: Your mouse pointer will display a 4-headed directional arrow symbol<br />

next to it<br />

2. Left click and drag to move the element.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 3 Rev: 4/16/09


Scale and rotate lettering elements<br />

1. Click on the lettering element. Click and hold the shift key to scale proportionally (on<br />

any of the 4 corner handles). Click and hold alt key to scale from center out (on any<br />

of the 4 solid corner handles).<br />

Note: The user will get a wireframe preview when clicking and dragging points on an<br />

outline. This feature is particularly important for the user to visually see how big the<br />

lettering will be. This feature works the same when moving designs on the screen.<br />

2. Click on the element again to enter rotate mode. Notice that the handles become<br />

hollow. Click and hold on any of the 4 open corner handles.<br />

3. Scaling, Rotating and Slanting individual letters<br />

• Click on the “X” to select the individual letter.<br />

• Move individual letters left or right. To move the letter up or down, hold the<br />

control key on the keypad.<br />

• Scaling individual letters – Use the shift key and click on one of the corner<br />

handles to scale proportionally (the object remains a lettering element).<br />

• Rotating/Slanting individual letters – allows the user rotate individual letters.<br />

Click and drag on the one of the four corner handles<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 4 Rev: 4/16/09


Wireframe Editing Mode<br />

1. Edit the wireframe points as well as entry and exit points<br />

• Select the letter (Click on the “x” in the center of the letter)<br />

• On the View toolbar, click on the tool “Wireframe Editing Mode”<br />

• You will now be able to move each wireframe point as well as the start and<br />

exit points. The start point is represented by a green circle and the exit it<br />

represented by a red X<br />

Add color changes between letters<br />

1. Select the letter (click on the “x”) that you want to change the color. Then, click on<br />

the color box on left side of screen. Your letter will now be the color you just clicked<br />

on.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 5 Rev: 4/16/09


Auto Borders<br />

All of the following can be added or changed:<br />

• Stitch Types: Satin or Walk/Bean Stitch, Appliqué and Tackle<br />

• Density/Column Width adjustments or Stitch lengths<br />

• Color Changes/Border sequence<br />

• You also have the option of stitching all the inside of the letters first then the border<br />

by selecting – Stitch Borders Last<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 6 Rev: 4/16/09


Using the Dynamic Toolbar to make quick changes to your lettering elements<br />

This toolbar is only displayed when an element or input tool is selected<br />

Change the Stitch Type<br />

1. Click on the Text<br />

2. Click on Stitch drop down arrow on the dynamic toolbar (see above)<br />

3. Click on the stitch of choice (satin, fill, E-stitch, zigzag, and edge fill)<br />

Change the Alphabet<br />

1. Select the lettering on the screen<br />

2. On the dynamic toolbar, click on the drop down arrow next to “Alphabet”<br />

3. Roll the mouse down to select the desired alphabet<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 7 Rev: 4/16/09


Add Underlay<br />

1. Click on text on the screen<br />

2. Click on underlay drop down arrow on tool bar<br />

3. Click on Underlay you want to use<br />

4. You can also double click on your text and set up “Auto Underlay” in the Object<br />

Properties box<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 8 Rev: 4/16/09


5. This option allows you to set parameters to automatically place different underlay’s<br />

for different size ranges of elements (see below). Click on the check box next to<br />

“Enable Auto-Underlay” then click on the input box - the following dialog box is<br />

displayed. You can change the parameters or leave the defaults.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 9 Rev: 4/16/09


Lettering - Object Properties Dialog box<br />

Adjust the short stitches<br />

1. Short stitches should remain on all the time except on small letters (.25 and below).<br />

Short Stitches On<br />

Short Stitches Off<br />

2. To turn on or off short stitches, double click on the element to open the object<br />

properties dialog box. Click on “Top Stitching” then left click the check mark next to<br />

short stitches. This will turn off short stitches. It is also available as a toggle on the<br />

dynamic properties bar.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 10 Rev: 4/16/09


Horizontal Stitch Order for lettering<br />

1. Create a Lettering element.<br />

2. Double click on the element to open the Object Properties Box<br />

3. Select the “Horizontal Stitch Order” button to sew the lettering. You can choose<br />

left to right, right to left, or center out.(note* center out is great for hats and jacket<br />

back lettering in big hoops)<br />

4. Click on OK.<br />

Vertical Stitch Order for lettering<br />

1. Create a Lettering Element using more than one line of text.<br />

2. Double click on the element to open the Object Properties Box<br />

3. Select the “Vertical Stitch Order” button to sew the lettering. You can choose top<br />

to bottom, bottom to top or line wrapping. (Bottom to top would also be a good<br />

choice for lettering on the front of caps.)<br />

4. Click on OK.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 11 Rev: 4/16/09


Adjust the space between two letters<br />

1. Create a Lettering Element using the word “Tony” with Diane Script<br />

2. Notice the “T” is too far away from the rest of the word.<br />

3. Click and Drag on the X of the letter “T” moving it right or left when needed<br />

(common with script texts).<br />

OR<br />

4. From the Object Properties Dialog box<br />

5. Click on the button to decrease space (see diagram below).<br />

*NOTE: You may have to click more that once to achieve desired spacing.<br />

6. Click Apply to see the changes or OK to close the Properties box.<br />

*NOTE:<br />

decreases space between two letters.<br />

increases space between two letters.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 12 Rev: 4/16/09


Adjusting the space between every letter or every line<br />

1. In the Object Properties Box, under lettering and then under spacing, you can set<br />

horizontal, line or vertical spacing.<br />

• A positive number increases space, a negative number decreases space.<br />

2. Line Spacing adjusts the space between the lines of type.<br />

3. Horizontal Spacing adjusts the space between all of the letters.<br />

4. Use Vertical spacing to stair step the lettering (This works best with only one line<br />

of type.)<br />

Line Types<br />

1. Create the lettering element, then select the text you would like to adjust the<br />

baseline.<br />

2. On the Dynamic toolbar select the baseline style you wish to use by clicking on the<br />

drop down arrow (next to the word “line”) then choose the baseline.<br />

• Custom – click on the baseline and use right clicks to insert curve points or<br />

left clicks to insert straight points. Once the points have been inserted, you<br />

can click on them and drag to achieve the desired line shape.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 13 Rev: 4/16/09


• Arc - Adjust the arc radius angle.<br />

• Vertical<br />

• Perspective – Click and drag on any of the four corner points<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 14 Rev: 4/16/09


• Envelope – click on the baseline and use right clicks to insert curve points or left<br />

clicks to insert straight points.<br />

Shadow Effect (DS Pro +)<br />

The shadow feature can be used on letters and simple design shapes<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 15 Rev: 4/16/09


1. Type letters for shadow effect.<br />

2. Click on the Object Drop Down Menu<br />

3. Select Shadow<br />

4. Select Stitch Type (see picture below)<br />

5. You can adjust Angle, Offset and Overlap (or accept defaults).<br />

6. Click on OK.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 16 Rev: 4/16/09


MELCO ALPHABETS<br />

<strong>Melco</strong> offers many alphabets or “keyboard lettering” styles for DesignShop software. The<br />

help system in the DesignShop software has all of the available alphabets and the code<br />

sheets for each one. Click on “Help” then “Help Topics” from the Help pull down menu, or<br />

press F1 while in DesignShop. Then click on the “Alphabets” button to access the code<br />

sheets. Each code sheet gives a 3D view of the characters and the recommended minimum<br />

and maximum sewing size. The code sheets also include a chart of all the available<br />

European or extended characters available in each alphabet.<br />

All of the alphabet code sheets contain a recommended minimum and a maximum sewing<br />

size. This recommended parameter should be used and followed, but this does not mean<br />

that going outside of these limits will produce bad results. Many of the alphabets can be<br />

used at larger or smaller sizes if parameters such as Column Width, Letter Width, Density,<br />

Short Stitches, Column Fill and Underlay are adjusted accordingly.<br />

To fully understand <strong>Melco</strong> keyboard lettering, it must be understood that each and every<br />

character is digitized separately and is then compiled and put into one unique alphabet file<br />

that is understood by <strong>Melco</strong> DesignShop software. As each character is individually<br />

digitized, each alphabet will have its own way of reacting to size and parameters used when<br />

setting up the lettering desired. Some alphabets are digitized to be used at smaller sizes<br />

than others. Parameters used for one may not sew the same for another.<br />

Closest point alphabets are digitized so they will connect at the closest point of each letter<br />

next to each other. Using these alphabets will minimize UN-wanted trims between letters.<br />

A closest point alphabet will be listed in the lettering list with a “CP” on the end. An example<br />

will look like this: FULL BLOCK CP.<br />

Probably the most important items to insure good results are the proper settings for the<br />

garment type being sewn on, and using the proper backings and or topping. All alphabet<br />

code sheets produced before July of 2001 have a minimum and maximum setting. These<br />

settings were determined on a non-stretch type of material. The settings may need to be<br />

adjusted for use on a knit or sweat material. All new alphabets have recommended settings<br />

for knits, sweats and non-stretch fabrics in the code sheets. These settings are a good<br />

starting place, but may need adjusting for the particular garment material being used. Knit<br />

materials for instance, can vary in material density, thickness and how much they stretch.<br />

Settings for one type of knit material may not work 100% for another.<br />

Some alphabets currently being sold by <strong>Melco</strong> contain tie stitches at the end of each letter in<br />

the alphabet. These tie stitches are what "ties down" the stitching at the end of each letter.<br />

DesignShop allows you to add tie stitches to a lettering job from the Tie In And Tie Off sub<br />

window of Object Properties. However, because the tie stitches are already digitized into the<br />

alphabet, the result is multiple tie stitches that will create an undesirable knotting effect. To<br />

remove all existing tie stitches from all installed alphabets in DesignShop, click on the "Tools<br />

Menu", "Convert Alphabets" and then click on “Remove Ties”. Use the "Tools Menu",<br />

“Restore Alphabets” feature to restore the tie stitches digitized back into the alphabet<br />

characters that originally had them if so desired. However, Tie in stitches is usually not<br />

digitized into the current alphabets. Tie in stitches are a lock stitch that is sewn at the<br />

beginning of each letter. You may want to use this feature when trimming between each<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 17 Rev: 4/16/09


letter to avoid a possible “thread pullout” when the machine starts sewing the next letter<br />

after a trim.<br />

As a general rule, when sewing on knit or sweat materials, column width should be<br />

increased. Proper backings should be used, and in most cases a topping such as Solvy<br />

should also be used. Many of the recommended minimum settings listed in <strong>Melco</strong> alphabets<br />

will not work on knits or sweats, and may need to be adjusted to different values. When<br />

increasing the column width to compensate for material type, the letters that have enclosed<br />

areas such as an “a” may close in the center when sewn. If this is noticed, the size of the<br />

lettering should be increased to allow for the added column width. In most cases when<br />

sewing on knits or sweats an edge walk underlay is desired, and in some cases (larger<br />

sizes) an edge walk along with a center walk should be used. Very thin column lettering may<br />

only require a center walk at small sizes. Density on knits and sweats is usually set denser<br />

than on a stable material. Block styles of alphabets used at small sizes sew much cleaner<br />

and crisper than script alphabets at the same size. In most cases when doing small lettering<br />

on knits or sweats a block style of alphabet without serifs will give the best results. Using<br />

some scrap material for testing that is like the garment to be sewn on is highly<br />

recommended until what works best for you and your machines is determined.<br />

Following are a few recommendations that you may want to try when sewing keyboard<br />

lettering.<br />

Large letters<br />

If the alphabet letter height is increased beyond the maximum recommendation, sew quality<br />

may suffer. The column stitch may get too wide and can create an undesirable effect.<br />

• Change the column stitch type from a satin stitch to a fill stitch. The stitch count will<br />

increase, but the sew quality will improve.<br />

• Zigzag or Edge Walk underlay will help to stabilize the stitches on the fabric.<br />

Small letters<br />

When using keyboard lettering for small letters, these tips may help your sew quality.<br />

• Turn off short stitches for small letters. This can improve sew quality as well as help to<br />

reduce thread breaks.<br />

• Increasing the column width (Pull Comp.) will help the lettering from sinking into a knit.<br />

Different alphabets will require different column widths, as they are all different in width<br />

at the default value.<br />

• The column density value should be increased. The value will depend on the fabric.<br />

• The travel stitch length should be in the range of 18 - 25.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 18 Rev: 4/16/09


Small Lettering<br />

There are a few things to remember when sewing small letters. Always check the Alphabet<br />

Code Sheets for the recommended letter height for your selected Alphabet. Some Alphabets<br />

were not created to sew small. If the alphabet you have chosen cannot be sewn as small as<br />

you would like, choose a different alphabet. Material thickness may need to be slightly<br />

increased to achieve good sew quality. A more stable piece of backing and a piece of Solvy<br />

will help keep small lettering from sinking into the fabric. Here is a list of problems that may<br />

occur when sewing small letters and how to fix them:<br />

Symptom Possible Cause Solution<br />

Bobbin showing on top of the<br />

fabric (bobbin pull).<br />

Frayed Threads<br />

Sharp corners and curved<br />

areas look choppy<br />

Excessive Thread Breaks<br />

Looping<br />

Columns are uneven and<br />

distorted.<br />

Columns are too skinny,<br />

and/or material thickness is<br />

too low. It could also be that<br />

you are sewing too quickly.<br />

Columns are too skinny or<br />

stitches are too dense. Needle<br />

is too large, or is damaged<br />

Tiny stitches in curved areas.<br />

Needle is too large.<br />

Stitching is too dense or<br />

columns are too skinny.<br />

Needle is too large or<br />

damaged.<br />

Columns are too skinny or<br />

stitching is too dense. Material<br />

Thickness value is too high.<br />

Lettering is too small. Fabric<br />

needs more stability. Columns<br />

are too skinny.<br />

Increase “Width/Pull<br />

Compensation” (some small<br />

letters may need to go as high<br />

as 190%). Increase Material<br />

Thickness value.<br />

Increase “Width/Pull<br />

Compensation.” Loosen<br />

density (.3 inch letter should<br />

have a density of 4.5 or higher).<br />

Use a smaller or new needle.<br />

Turn Short Stitches Off. Use a<br />

smaller needle.<br />

Increase “Width/Pull<br />

Compensation.” Loosen<br />

density. Use a less aggressive<br />

underlay. Use a smaller needle.<br />

Increase “Width/Pull<br />

Compensation.” Loosen<br />

density. Lower Material<br />

Thickness Value. Check to see<br />

if your acti-feed lower limit isn’t<br />

too high.<br />

Check the recommended<br />

minimum letter height. Use a<br />

more stable backing. Increase<br />

the “Width/Pull Compensation.”<br />

Turn Short Stitches Off. Use a<br />

topping like “Solvy.”<br />

DSV9_QRG_Lettering 19 Rev: 4/16/09


Understanding &<br />

Changing Stitch Types<br />

DesignShop V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

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Changing Stitch Types<br />

When an element or an input tool is selected, you can change the stitch type using<br />

the drop-down on the Dynamic Properties Bar. If it is already open, you could also<br />

use the Object Properties window.<br />

If you have a walk element or input<br />

tool selected, you will have the<br />

stitch type choices below.<br />

If you have a column or complex fill<br />

element or input tool selected, you will<br />

have the stitch type choices below.<br />

Common Stitch Types for Walk Elements<br />

Walk Normal<br />

• Creates a single running stitch<br />

• Used for digitized travel stitches<br />

• Used to travel from one point in a design<br />

to another without trimming<br />

• Big factor in design efficiency<br />

• Used for very small detail work<br />

• Used for a digitized underlay<br />

Walk Bean<br />

• Creates a multi-layered running stitch<br />

• Each stitch steps forward, back, and<br />

forward again.<br />

• Increasing the Bean Thickness would<br />

increase the number of times each<br />

stitch repeat.<br />

• Used for detail work<br />

• Sometimes used for borders<br />

DSV9_QRG_Stitch_Types.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Common Stitch Types for Multi-Stitch Line Elements<br />

Satin<br />

• Rounded, shiny, sculptural, stays<br />

up out of material<br />

• Saves Stitches<br />

• Limited Range (10-60pts)<br />

• Stitches can change direction<br />

through the form (like in an “S”)<br />

• Stitches usually run perpendicular<br />

to the edge – across the form<br />

Zig Zag<br />

• Usually used as tack-down stitch<br />

for appliqué<br />

E-Stitch<br />

• Used mostly as an appliqué<br />

tack-down stitch<br />

Fill<br />

• Usually used for larger areas<br />

• Flatter look, although you can<br />

create patterns within the fills<br />

• Sinks stitches within the form<br />

• Raises stitch count<br />

Tackle<br />

• Tack-down for appliqué<br />

• Used mostly for numbers on<br />

sports items / sports uniforms<br />

Edge Fill<br />

• Sinks stitches within the form<br />

• Stitches run parallel to the edge<br />

• Used mostly for special effects<br />

Auto Stitch Type<br />

By checking the “Auto” box beside the stitch<br />

type drop-down in the object properties box, you<br />

can enable Auto Stitch Type.<br />

This function bases the stitch type off of the<br />

average size of a multi-stitch line element. It<br />

defaults to satin stitches for smaller objects and<br />

fills for larger objects.<br />

To access the properties for auto, click on<br />

the […] beside it.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Stitch_Types.pub 3 Rev: 04/28/09


The<br />

Color System<br />

DesignShop V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

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Accessing the Color System<br />

Object Properties<br />

Project View<br />

Color Palette<br />

The Color System in DesignShop is comprised of three parts. Many times, only one<br />

or two of these sections need to be accessed to affect the desired change.<br />

The Color Palette is on the left side of the screen when you load DesignShop. It is<br />

a toolbar and can be moved wherever the user finds most useful. Should the<br />

toolbar get closed, it can be retrieved by clicking on View > Toolbars, and<br />

checking “Mini-Palette Toolbar”.<br />

The Object Properties box is accessed by selecting an element or elements<br />

and right-clicking within the selection box. Then, choose “Properties” from the<br />

options listed. Another way to get to the Object Properties box is by clicking on<br />

View menu and selecting “Properties”.<br />

The Project View is third part of the color system. When DesignShop is first<br />

loaded, it is located on the far right of the screen. If you cannot find it, click on<br />

“View” then “Project Views”, then choose “Project View 1”.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Color_System.pub 2 Rev: 05/21/09


The Color Palette<br />

Current Color<br />

Design Colors<br />

(Active Colors)<br />

Color Palette<br />

Background<br />

Color<br />

Current Color<br />

• The current color displays the color of<br />

the currently selected element. If an<br />

input is selected, it displays the color<br />

that will be used by the tool.<br />

• To change the current color, click on a<br />

color in the design colors or the color palette.<br />

You could also click on the current<br />

color to open the Color Properties window.<br />

Background Color<br />

• The background color allows you to<br />

change the background color of your<br />

view window. This can help mimic the<br />

color of garment on which the design is<br />

to be sewn.<br />

• To change the background color, click<br />

on the background color button (the<br />

sliver of color to the right of the current<br />

color block). This will open the Color Properties<br />

window. You can then choose a<br />

new color for the background.<br />

Color Palette<br />

• A small selection of available colors.<br />

• Left-clicking on a block will change the<br />

currently selected elements to that<br />

color. If no elements are selected, it will<br />

change the current color to that color.<br />

• Right-click on the block and choose “Edit<br />

Color” to change the color of that block.<br />

Design Colors (Active Colors)<br />

• Design Colors displays the colors being<br />

used in the design.<br />

• Changing Colors<br />

• Changing the color of a block in<br />

Design Colors will change every<br />

instance of that thread color in<br />

the design. If the design used the<br />

same color three times, and that<br />

thread color was changed in the<br />

Design Colors, all the occurrences<br />

of that color would be changed<br />

to the new color.<br />

• Right-click > edit color to<br />

change color of that block<br />

• Click and drag a block from the<br />

Palette to Design Colors<br />

• Right-click > Show/Hide (others/all)<br />

• Locked colors allow colors to remain in<br />

the active colors even when they are<br />

not currently in use. To lock a color,<br />

right-click on the block and choose<br />

“Locked” from the menu.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Color_System.pub 3 Rev: 05/21/09


Color Properties<br />

If accessed from the color palette on the<br />

left side of the screen, the color properties<br />

window can be used to change the<br />

thread color of the current color, an active<br />

color block, or a palette color block.<br />

If accessed from the project view on the right<br />

side of the screen, the color properties window<br />

can be used to change the thread<br />

color of the currently selected elements.<br />

A new color can be selected by scrolling<br />

through either of the scrollable color charts<br />

and clicking on the desired color swatch. If<br />

the thread number is known, it can simply be<br />

entered in the “Find Number” field.<br />

In the preview on the left, the original color is<br />

shown on top with the newly chosen color<br />

underneath. Both colors are ringed in the<br />

background color. When you click “Apply”,<br />

the original color will change to the new.<br />

Old Color<br />

Background Color<br />

New Color<br />

If the desired color is not an ARC Poly color,<br />

other thread charts are available from the<br />

“Color Chart” drop-down menu.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Color_System.pub 4 Rev: 05/21/09


Color in the Project View<br />

In the Project View, you will notice that there<br />

is a color level. These color blocks represent<br />

the color sequence. If you click on the color<br />

block, you will select every element within<br />

that instance of color. If that thread color is<br />

repeated later in the sequence, you will not<br />

be selecting those elements.<br />

Color Level in the Project View<br />

• Right-click on the color group> Color…<br />

to change thread color.<br />

OR<br />

• Select the color group, click on the desired<br />

color from either the active colors<br />

or the color palette.<br />

Element Level<br />

• Color information is stored at the element<br />

level.<br />

• Changing the color of an element<br />

• Select the element(s) > click on<br />

the desired color block in the<br />

color palette<br />

OR<br />

• Select the element(s) > Rightclick<br />

> Color… , then choose<br />

the desired color in the color<br />

properties window.<br />

• The selected elements<br />

change color while all other<br />

elements remain<br />

Merging Colors in the Project View<br />

Auto Merge Color Blocks<br />

Merge Color<br />

In the Project View, if two identical color blocks<br />

exist back to back, you can have the software<br />

automatically merge those color blocks. This<br />

will create a more efficient design with less<br />

color changes when sent to a machine.<br />

If you want to manually merge color blocks,<br />

you can click on the small brown arrow to the<br />

right of a color block to force it to adopt the<br />

color above it in the project view.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Color_System.pub 5 Rev: 05/21/09


Webinar #3<br />

Object Properties<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Lettering & Editing Webinar Guide<br />

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Object Properties<br />

Saving Properties as Default<br />

Copy & Paste Properties<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 2 Rev: 06/02/09


Top Stitching: Stitch Types<br />

Satin<br />

• Rounded, shiny, sculptural, stays<br />

up out of material<br />

• Saves Stitches<br />

• Limited Range (10-70pts)<br />

• Stitches can change direction<br />

through the form (like in an “S”)<br />

• Stitches usually run perpendicular<br />

to the edge – across the form<br />

Fill<br />

• Usually used for larger areas<br />

• Flatter look, although you can<br />

create patterns<br />

• Sinks stitches within the form<br />

• Raises stitch count<br />

Zig Zag<br />

• Usually used as tack-down stitch<br />

for appliqué<br />

E-Stitch<br />

• Used mostly as an appliqué<br />

tack-down stitch<br />

Edge Fill<br />

• Sinks stitches within the form<br />

• Stitches run parallel to the edge<br />

• Used mostly for effect<br />

Tackle<br />

• Tack-down for appliqué<br />

• Used mostly for numbers on<br />

sports items / sports uniforms<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 3 Rev: 06/02/09


Top Stitching Continued<br />

Auto Stitch Type<br />

• Bases the stitch type off of the average<br />

size of an element<br />

• Defaults to satins for smaller objects<br />

and fills for larger objects<br />

• Properties for Auto are available in the<br />

[…] box<br />

Short Stitch<br />

Toggle on the Dynamic Properties Bar<br />

• Alternates the stitch lengths on the insides<br />

of tight angles and curves<br />

• Helps prevent holes and thread breaks<br />

on the inside of forms<br />

• More settings are under Top Stitching ><br />

Advanced<br />

• Width<br />

Density<br />

• Density is the measurement of space<br />

between the stitches<br />

• Longer satin stitch lines need a tighter<br />

density<br />

• Shorter stitch lines need a lighter density<br />

• Whole number jumps in density are rare<br />

Auto-Density<br />

• Auto-Density bases the density of an<br />

element on the width of the stitch line.<br />

• Wider stitch lines = tighter the density.<br />

• The values table is accessible through<br />

the […] beside it.<br />

• When Auto-Density is checked, the<br />

Density field changes to a percentage.<br />

This allows you to easily adjust the density<br />

while keeping the variances based<br />

on width.<br />

“Use Fill for stitch lines greater than:”<br />

• Allows users to specify at what stitch<br />

line length a satin will be turned to a fill.<br />

• This prevents satin stitches for exceeding<br />

appropriate lengths and snagging<br />

or pulling out of the garment.<br />

• The properties of the fill are listed below.<br />

• Defaults to random to hide the needle<br />

penetrations.<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 4 Rev: 06/02/09


Underlay<br />

Center Walk<br />

1. Good for smaller lettering and thinner elements<br />

2. Adds one line of stitching down the middle of an element<br />

• Stitch Length<br />

• Shorter stitches follow curves more accurately<br />

• Longer stitches stay out of the material<br />

• Avoid stitch lengths shorter than 15 pts<br />

Edge Walk<br />

1. Cleans up edges of elements<br />

2. Used for wider elements<br />

3. Adds a line of stitching just on the inside of the edges of an element<br />

• Inset<br />

• Percentage – Width<br />

• Adjusts the width of the edge walk<br />

• Absolute – Border Margin<br />

• Adjust the inset of the edge walk<br />

Zig Zag<br />

1. Good for tacking down the nap of material<br />

2. Adds one line of stitching up the middle of an element and then zig zags<br />

back.<br />

• Density<br />

• Adjusts the density of the underlay<br />

Double Zig Zag<br />

1. Adds two layers of zig zag stitching underneath an element<br />

2. The layers cross over each other<br />

Fill<br />

1. Creates a light fill underneath the top stitching<br />

• Angle<br />

• The angle of the underlay in relation to the angle of<br />

the topstitching<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 5 Rev: 06/02/09


Underlay Options<br />

Lettering – Use Continuous Underlay<br />

• Underlays the entire letter before coming<br />

back over with the top stitching.<br />

• Helps prevents the segments of the letters<br />

from pulling gaps in the sewout.<br />

• Good for smaller lettering<br />

Auto-Underlay<br />

• Enable Auto-Underlay<br />

• Allows you to specify different underlays<br />

for different size ranges of elements.<br />

Pull Comp<br />

Lock XY<br />

• Keeps the Pull Compensation equal in both vertically<br />

and horizontally<br />

Pull Comp<br />

• Multiplies the element width by the specified<br />

percentage<br />

• Affects wider areas faster than thinner areas<br />

• Used to compensate for the pull of stitches in<br />

fabric<br />

Pull Offset<br />

• Widens the element by specified amount on<br />

each side<br />

• Completely even all the way through the form<br />

Max Pull Comp<br />

• Specified Maximum value for pull comp.<br />

• Prevents pull comp from getting too wide on<br />

areas with large line length when pull percentage<br />

amount is specified.<br />

Small Column Pull Comp Scale<br />

• Adjusts smaller elements differently than larger<br />

ones.<br />

• Small Column Scale %<br />

• Adds additional pull compensation for<br />

smaller elements<br />

• Small Column Width<br />

• A small column is defined by any element<br />

width falling below this value.<br />

Column Width<br />

• Min Col Width<br />

• If a stitch line falls short of this value, it<br />

will be extended to meet this length.<br />

• Max Col Width<br />

• If a stitch line width exceeds this value, it<br />

will be adjusted to fit this length.<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 6 Rev: 06/02/09


Tie In & Tie Off<br />

DSV9_WO3_Object_Properties.pub 7 Rev: 06/02/09


Density and Auto Density<br />

Density: Measures the distance between the stitches. The distance that separates the zig and<br />

zag of the stitches is used as the display for density. The larger the value for density, the looser<br />

the stitching. The smaller the value for density, the tighter the stitching will become. See<br />

diagram below to illustrate a 4, 8 and 15 density setting.<br />

Auto-Density: Many columns are not going to be straight from beginning to end. The width may<br />

increase, decrease, and increase again. In this situation it is very useful to use the Auto-Density.<br />

To implement the Auto-Density function, left-click in the box (located in Object Properties<br />

under “Top Stitching”). Click again to remove the check mark (this turns Auto-Density off).<br />

Below is an example (FIG. 1) of Density (Normal Setting) and (FIG. 2) of Auto-Density turned on.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Density_Auto_Density 1 Rev: 6/2/09


Clicking the button next to Auto Density brings up the following dialog. This enables<br />

you to define your own auto density settings based on the column width.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Density_Auto_Density 2 Rev: 6/2/09


Column 1, Column 2, & Single Line<br />

Input Methods<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Digitizing Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Digitizing Tools and Basic Functions<br />

Selecting a Tool<br />

Click on the desired tool in the input toolbar<br />

• If you don’t see the desired tool, it may be<br />

necessary to select the tool from a flyout.<br />

• To access a flyout, click and hold on<br />

the tool within the same tool family.<br />

After a half a second, the other tools<br />

within this family will appear at the<br />

right. You may then select your desired<br />

tool. This newly selected tool will now<br />

be displayed in the input toolbar for this<br />

tool family.<br />

• Tools with flyouts are indicated by a<br />

small black arrow in the lower right corner<br />

of the tool.<br />

Click & Hold<br />

½ Second<br />

Creating the Elements<br />

After selecting a digitizing tool and setting<br />

the properties, you can create the elements<br />

in the view window.<br />

• Left Click = Creates a Straight Point<br />

• Right Click = Creates a Curve Point<br />

• Click & Drag = Pulls Bezier Handles from<br />

a point as you digitize<br />

• [Backspace] = Deletes the last input<br />

point you created<br />

• [Enter] = Completes the element or<br />

moves to the next step of an element<br />

• [Ctrl] + [Enter] = Completes a column<br />

with the exit point on the opposite side<br />

• [Shift] + [Enter] = Closes and open shape<br />

and completes the element<br />

• Holding [Alt] = Constrains line angles to<br />

15° increments<br />

• [Esc] = Removes all points from the element<br />

• [Esc] x 2 = Deselects Input Tool<br />

• Watch the Status Bar for prompts when using<br />

the different input tools<br />

Selecting Properties<br />

Once a digitizing tool or an element is selected,<br />

you can change the properties on<br />

the dynamic properties bar.<br />

Economy of Points<br />

Use as few points as possible to create your<br />

shapes when digitizing. The fewer point an element<br />

has, the easier that element is to edit and scale. A<br />

straight line doesn’t get any straighter by adding<br />

more straight points to it. A straight line is most<br />

effectively created by two straight points.<br />

When working with curves, try stay within 180°<br />

in any sequence of three points.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Columns.pub 2 Rev: 09/30/09


DesignShop Symbols<br />

Icons<br />

Straight Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Curve Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Bezier Handle<br />

(From a Straight Point, handles work independently)<br />

(From a Curve Point, handles work in tandem)<br />

Entry Point<br />

(Indicates the start of an element)<br />

Exit Point<br />

(Indicates the end of an element)<br />

Last Stitch of Previous Element<br />

(Displays the last stitch of the previous element. If you are creating<br />

the first element of the design, it indicates the origin of the design.)<br />

Cursors<br />

Edit Mode<br />

(You can select elements)<br />

Cursor Over an Element<br />

(You can click and drag to move the element)<br />

(Hold [Alt] to constrain the movement to the X or Y axix)<br />

Cursor Over a Line<br />

(You can add points along the line)<br />

(Click and drag to move the line)<br />

Cursor Over a Straight Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Curve Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Curve Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Straight Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Entry, Exit, or Handle<br />

(Click and drag to move the point or letter)<br />

(Hold [Ctrl] and click and drag to move the letter off the line)<br />

Insert Hole, Split Line, or Fill Island<br />

(Inserts holes, split lines, or fill islands into selected elements)<br />

Insert Entry/Exit Points<br />

(Insert or change the entry and exit points of the selected element)<br />

(Can also resequence with multiple elements selected)<br />

Insert Splice Line<br />

(Inserts slice lines within an element)<br />

Insert Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Inserts stitch direction lines within an element)<br />

Stitch Direction Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Wireframe Editing Mode)<br />

(Indicates the stitch direction of an element)<br />

Other Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates a stitch direction line across a form. Multiple<br />

stitch direction lines can be used to create<br />

different effects. Created by clicking and dragging<br />

across an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

End Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates an end line before the end of the<br />

shape. This allows for the compensation of stitch<br />

push. Created by right-click and dragging across<br />

an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

Splice Lines<br />

(Breaks up larger, more complex shapes into smaller<br />

regions. Each region can have its own stitch direction<br />

line. Created by clicking and dragging across<br />

an element with the splice tool. This is usually done<br />

at a junction or odd angle in the shape.)<br />

Singleline Width<br />

(Indicates the width of a single line column. The<br />

width of the column can be changed by clicking<br />

on one of the points of the width and dragging.)<br />

DSV9_QRG_Columns.pub 3 Rev: 09/30/09


Column 1 Input Method<br />

Column 1<br />

Uses alternating pairs of points<br />

• Line between points of a pair determines<br />

the stitch direction<br />

• Pairs of points don’t need to contain<br />

the same type of point<br />

4<br />

Watch your stitch directions on curves. Think of spokes<br />

on a wheel. Don’t try to “help” the curve along. Notice<br />

how poorly the stitches fan on the example.<br />

2<br />

3<br />

6<br />

1<br />

1. Straight<br />

2. Straight<br />

3. Curve<br />

4. Curve<br />

5<br />

5. Straight<br />

6. Straight<br />

7. [Enter]<br />

The points within a pair don’t have to be of the same<br />

type. Notice on the middle pair that the top is a<br />

straight point, and the bottom is a curve.<br />

Creating Complex Curves<br />

When dealing with more complex curves, try to divide the curves into simpler ones. Try to avoid<br />

exceeding 180° in any set of three pairs. Also, try to think about your stitch directions as spokes<br />

on a wheel. Each one coming out from the center of the arc.<br />

Too Many Points Good Too Few Points<br />

DSV9_QRG_Columns.pub 4 Rev: 09/30/09


Column 2 Input Method<br />

Column 2<br />

Digitize one side, press [Enter], then digitize<br />

the other side and press [Enter] to complete<br />

the element. To finish, left-click and drag<br />

stitch direction lines across the element and<br />

press [Enter].<br />

• This is a great tool for more organic<br />

shapes with uneven sides.<br />

• You can create elements with a different<br />

number of input points on each side.<br />

• Stitch directions are determined independently<br />

of the points that make up<br />

the element.<br />

• Using column 2 tends to creates a more<br />

scalable and editable form.<br />

5<br />

Stitch Direction<br />

1. Straight<br />

2. Curve<br />

3. Straight<br />

4. [Enter]<br />

6<br />

2<br />

Stitch Direction<br />

7<br />

3<br />

5. Straight<br />

6. Curve<br />

7. Straight<br />

8. [Enter]<br />

9. Stitch Directions<br />

10. [Enter]<br />

Digitize Side 1, then press [Enter] on your keyboard.<br />

1 2 4<br />

5 7<br />

8 10<br />

11<br />

12 - [Enter]<br />

3<br />

6<br />

9<br />

13 14<br />

15<br />

18 21<br />

24<br />

16 17 19 20 22 23 25 26<br />

Next, digitize Side 2 in the same direction, pressing [Enter] to complete the shape.<br />

To finish up, drag some stitch direction lines across the form, then press [Enter].<br />

27 - [Enter]<br />

28 - Stitch Directions<br />

29 - [Enter]<br />

DSV9_QRG_Columns.pub 5 Rev: 09/30/09


Single Line Input Methods<br />

• Excellent tool<br />

for borders<br />

• Creates a column<br />

with a<br />

consistent programmable<br />

width.<br />

• The column is<br />

created from<br />

the digitized<br />

line based on<br />

the tool you<br />

select (Center,<br />

Left, or Right).<br />

Single Line<br />

1<br />

2<br />

5<br />

Width<br />

6<br />

1. Straight<br />

2. Curve<br />

3. Straight<br />

4. [Enter]<br />

5. First Width Point<br />

6. Second Width Point<br />

3<br />

Single Line Properties<br />

Single Line<br />

• With Single Line elements, you can select<br />

“Singleline” sub menu. This will allow you to<br />

change where the stitching falls in relation to<br />

the wireframe line.<br />

• Choosing “Custom” will allow you to adjust the<br />

placement with a slider.<br />

Corners<br />

• Corners allows you to cap or miter the corners<br />

that are a tight angle. You can adjust<br />

when the corners will cap, how much they<br />

overlap, and how the stitches fan.<br />

• Capping or mitering a tight corner will prevent<br />

extremely long stitches and create a<br />

smoother sewout.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Columns.pub 6 Rev: 09/30/09


Pull Compensation<br />

DesignShop V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Enabling Pull Compensation<br />

Using pull compensation is a way to compensate for the pull of stitches on a<br />

material. If you were to digitize a circle and then sew it out, you may notice<br />

that your circle looks more like an oval. As stitches are sewn, they pull in. The<br />

distortion of your shape is dependant on the stitch direction of the element.<br />

If you digitize a circle, you may have an oval on the<br />

sewout. Depending on the type of material you are<br />

sewing, you may need to add some pull comp.<br />

As you add pull comp to the digitized design, the<br />

stitch lines are extended to compensate for the pull of<br />

the stitches. The digitized circle with the added pull<br />

comp will sew out as a circle.<br />

When an element or an input tool is selected, you can add or change the pull<br />

compensation using the percentage on the Dynamic Properties Bar. If it is already<br />

open, you could also use the Object Properties window to access more options.<br />

* Pull Comp on the dynamic properties bar<br />

The dynamic properties bar only has<br />

access to pull comp. If you want to<br />

use pull offset instead, you’ll need to<br />

use the object properties window.<br />

Lock XY<br />

Pull Comp Options (In Object Properties)<br />

• Locking XY keeps both the horizontal<br />

and the vertical pull<br />

comp equal.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Pull_Comp.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Pull Comp<br />

• Multiplies the stitch lines in an element by the<br />

specified percentage, extending them past<br />

the wireframe edge.<br />

• Affects wider areas faster than thinner areas<br />

• Used to compensate for the pull of stitches<br />

19 pts<br />

19 pts x 120% = 23<br />

pts<br />

38 pts<br />

38 pts x 120% = 46 pts<br />

Because Pull Comp uses percentages, it affects the<br />

wider areas much more quickly than the thinner areas.<br />

Using Pull Comp on smaller lettering that changes widths<br />

can cause the larger areas to expand into each other<br />

while doing little to assist the thinner areas.<br />

Pull Offset<br />

• Extends the stitch lines of an element by adding<br />

the specified amount to each side<br />

• Affects all stitch lines evenly<br />

• Adding a few points of Pull Offset can help<br />

smaller lettering and thin columns sew a bit<br />

more smoothly.<br />

4 pts + 19 pts + 4 pts<br />

27 pts<br />

4 pts + 38 pts + 4 pts<br />

46 pts<br />

Because Pull Offset adds points to each side, it affects<br />

all stitch lines evenly.<br />

Using Pull Offset on smaller lettering that changes widths<br />

can ease thread breaks and help visibility without smashing<br />

the wider area of letters together.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Pull_Comp.pub 3 Rev: 04/28/09


Max Pull Comp<br />

• Specified Maximum value for pull comp.<br />

• Prevents pull comp from getting too wide<br />

on areas with large line length when pull<br />

percentage amount is specified.<br />

Small Column Pull Comp Scale<br />

• Defaults to off.<br />

• Adjusts smaller areas of elements differently<br />

than larger ones.<br />

• Small Column Scale %<br />

• Adds additional pull compensation<br />

for smaller areas of elements<br />

• Small Column Width<br />

• A small column is defined by any element<br />

width falling below this value.<br />

Column Width<br />

• Min Col Width<br />

• If a digitzed stitch line falls short of<br />

this value, it will be extended to<br />

meet this length. No stitch lengths<br />

will fall below this value.<br />

• This can sometimes be used to help<br />

reduce thread breaks from having<br />

stitches that are short than the<br />

width of a needle.<br />

• Max Col Width<br />

• If a stitch line width exceeds this value,<br />

it will be adjusted to fit this length.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Pull_Comp.pub 4 Rev: 04/28/09


Using Underlay<br />

DesignShop V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Enabling an Underlay<br />

When a column, lettering, or complex fill element or an input tool is selected,<br />

you can add or change the underlay type using the drop-down on the Dynamic<br />

Properties Bar. If it is already open, you could also use the Object Properties<br />

window. The available underlay choices are shown below<br />

Underlay is used to stabilize the material by attaching it to the backing. It can<br />

tack down material nap, and it can add loft by building up your stitches.<br />

You have the option of using<br />

both a primary and a secondary<br />

underlay. The only differences in<br />

the two is that the primary sews<br />

first and the secondary sews second.<br />

This allows you to layer one<br />

underlay over another.<br />

Underlay Options<br />

Lettering – Use Continuous Underlay<br />

• Underlays the entire letter before coming<br />

back over with the top stitching.<br />

• Helps prevents the segments of the letters<br />

from pulling gaps in the sewout.<br />

• Good for smaller lettering<br />

• Only available for lettering<br />

Auto-Underlay<br />

• Enabling Auto-Underlay allows you to<br />

specify different underlays for different<br />

size ranges of elements.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Underlay.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Choosing the Appropriate Underlay<br />

Center Walk<br />

1. Good for smaller lettering and thinner elements<br />

2. Adds one line of stitching down the middle of an element or letter<br />

• Stitch Length<br />

• Shorter stitches follow curves more accurately.<br />

• Longer stitches stay out of the material.<br />

• Keep stitch length between 15 - 30 points.<br />

*Available in the Object Properties Window<br />

Edge Walk<br />

*Available in the Object Properties Window<br />

1. Edge walks are very useful underlays for cleaning up the edges of wider<br />

elements on textured materials such as piqué knit, terry, or waffle knit.<br />

2. Adds a line of stitching just on the inside of the edges of an element or letter<br />

3. You can adjust how far the edge walk is inset from the edge of the element.<br />

• If you use percentage, the inset for edge walk is based on a<br />

percentage of the width of the element.<br />

• If you use absolute, the inset for the edge walk is specified in<br />

points. One point is a tenth of a millimeter.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Underlay.pub 3 Rev: 04/28/09


Zig Zag<br />

*Available in the Object Properties Window<br />

1. Good for tacking down the nap of material and building up the loft of<br />

the stitches. Good for terry, polar fleece, and thick knits.<br />

2. Adds one line of stitching up the middle of an element and then zig zags back.<br />

3. You can adjust how far the zig zag is inset from the edge of the element.<br />

• If you use percentage, the inset for zig zag is based on a percentage<br />

of the width of the element.<br />

• If you use absolute, the inset for the zig zag is specified in points.<br />

One point is a tenth of a millimeter.<br />

Double Zig Zag<br />

1. Adds two layers of zig zag stitching underneath an element<br />

2. The layers cross over each other<br />

3. You can adjust how far the double zig zag is inset from the edge of the element.<br />

• If you use percentage, the inset for double zig zag is based on<br />

a percentage of the width of the element.<br />

• If you use absolute, the inset for the double zig zag is specified<br />

in points. One point is a tenth of a millimeter.<br />

*Available in the Object Properties Window<br />

Zig Zag<br />

Double Zig Zag<br />

Fill<br />

1. Creates a light fill underneath the top stitching<br />

2. Good for stabilizing larger areas.<br />

3. You can adjust the angle of the underlay in relation to the angle of the<br />

topstitching. 90° is a fairly efficient stabilizing direction for underlay.<br />

*Available in the Object Properties Window<br />

DSV9_QRG_Underlay.pub 4 Rev: 04/28/09


Complex Fill<br />

Input Methods<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Digitizing Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Digitizing Tools and Basic Functions<br />

Selecting a Tool<br />

Click on the desired tool in the input toolbar<br />

• If you don’t see the desired tool, it may be<br />

necessary to select the tool from a flyout.<br />

• To access a flyout, click and hold on<br />

the tool within the same tool family.<br />

After a half a second, the other tools<br />

within this family will appear at the<br />

right. You may then select your desired<br />

tool. This newly selected tool will now<br />

be displayed in the input toolbar for this<br />

tool family.<br />

• Tools with flyouts are indicated by a<br />

small black arrow in the lower right corner<br />

of the tool.<br />

Click & Hold<br />

½ Second<br />

Creating the Elements<br />

After selecting a digitizing tool and setting<br />

the properties, you can create the elements<br />

in the view window.<br />

• Left Click = Creates a Straight Point<br />

• Right Click = Creates a Curve Point<br />

• Click & Drag = Pulls Bezier Handles from<br />

a point as you digitize<br />

• [Backspace] = Deletes the last input<br />

point you created<br />

• [Enter] = Completes the element or<br />

moves to the next step of an element<br />

• [Ctrl] + [Enter] = Completes a column<br />

with the exit point on the opposite side<br />

• [Shift] + [Enter] = Closes and open shape<br />

and completes the element<br />

• Holding [Alt] = Constrains line angles to<br />

15° increments<br />

• [Esc] = Removes all points from the element<br />

• [Esc] x 2 = Deselects Input Tool<br />

• Watch the Status Bar for prompts when using<br />

the different input tools<br />

Selecting Properties<br />

Once a digitizing tool or an element is selected,<br />

you can change the properties on<br />

the dynamic properties bar.<br />

Economy of Points<br />

Use as few points as possible to create your<br />

shapes when digitizing. The fewer point an element<br />

has, the easier that element is to edit and scale. A<br />

straight line doesn’t get any straighter by adding<br />

more straight points to it. A straight line is most<br />

effectively created by two straight points.<br />

When working with curves, try stay within 180°<br />

in any sequence of three points.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 2 Rev: 09/30/09


DesignShop Symbols<br />

Icons<br />

Straight Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Curve Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Bezier Handle<br />

(From a Straight Point, handles work independently)<br />

(From a Curve Point, handles work in tandem)<br />

Entry Point<br />

(Indicates the start of an element)<br />

Exit Point<br />

(Indicates the end of an element)<br />

Last Stitch of Previous Element<br />

(Displays the last stitch of the previous element. If you are creating<br />

the first element of the design, it indicates the origin of the design.)<br />

Cursors<br />

Edit Mode<br />

(You can select elements)<br />

Cursor Over an Element<br />

(You can click and drag to move the element)<br />

(Hold [Alt] to constrain the movement to the X or Y axix)<br />

Cursor Over a Line<br />

(You can add points along the line)<br />

(Click and drag to move the line)<br />

Cursor Over a Straight Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Curve Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Curve Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Straight Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Entry, Exit, or Handle<br />

(Click and drag to move the point or letter)<br />

(Hold [Ctrl] and click and drag to move the letter off the line)<br />

Insert Hole, Split Line, or Fill Island<br />

(Inserts holes, split lines, or fill islands into selected elements)<br />

Insert Entry/Exit Points<br />

(Insert or change the entry and exit points of the selected element)<br />

(Can also resequence with multiple elements selected)<br />

Insert Splice Line<br />

(Inserts slice lines within an element)<br />

Insert Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Inserts stitch direction lines within an element)<br />

Stitch Direction Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Wireframe Editing Mode)<br />

(Indicates the stitch direction of an element)<br />

Other Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates a stitch direction line across a form. Multiple<br />

stitch direction lines can be used to create<br />

different effects. Created by clicking and dragging<br />

across an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

End Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates an end line before the end of the<br />

shape. This allows for the compensation of stitch<br />

push. Created by right-click and dragging across<br />

an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

Splice Lines<br />

(Breaks up larger, more complex shapes into smaller<br />

regions. Each region can have its own stitch direction<br />

line. Created by clicking and dragging across<br />

an element with the splice tool. This is usually done<br />

at a junction or odd angle in the shape.)<br />

Singleline Width<br />

(Indicates the width of a single line column. The<br />

width of the column can be changed by clicking<br />

on one of the points of the width and dragging.)<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 3 Rev: 09/30/09


Complex Fill Input (Traditional Input Mode)<br />

Traditional Input Mode<br />

The Complex Fill Input Method (Traditional<br />

Input Mode) will create shapes with one<br />

stitch direction. To create a traditional<br />

complex fill, you must first select the tool by<br />

left-clicking on the icon in the input toolbar.<br />

If the tool is not visible, you may need<br />

to select it from the tool flyout.<br />

To create a Complex Fill with the Traditional<br />

Input Method, follow the steps below.<br />

Be sure to watch the status bar in DesignShop<br />

for prompts to guide you through<br />

the creation of the element.<br />

1. Select the Complex Fill Input Method<br />

(Traditional Input Mode)<br />

2. Input the wireframe outline of the complex<br />

fill by left-clicking on the mouse to<br />

create straight points and right-clicking on<br />

the mouse to create curve points. Try to<br />

use as few points as possible. Lines are the<br />

straightest when between two straight<br />

points, and curves are smoother when<br />

fewer points are used. While fewer points<br />

are ideal, avoid creating curves that exceed<br />

180° in any set of three points.<br />

3. To complete the shape, press ENTER on<br />

your keyboard. This will connect the line<br />

between the first and last point, closing<br />

the shape.<br />

4. If the shape has holes or places that you<br />

do not wish to have stitches, you may<br />

digitize a wireframe outline around those<br />

areas next, pressing ENTER after each<br />

one. When you have finished adding any<br />

holes, press ENTER again.<br />

5. Input your Entry Point by clicking where<br />

you would like the fill to start stitching.<br />

Many times, this will be where the previous<br />

element ended. The last stitch of<br />

the previous element is displayed by a<br />

white crosshair. This can be inside or<br />

outside the wireframe shape.<br />

6. Now, Input the exit point. This is where you<br />

would like the fill to end. This can be inside<br />

or outside the wireframe shape.<br />

7. Lastly, a stitch direction must be determined.<br />

To do this, left-click and drag<br />

across the form, using the line created<br />

to control the stitch angle. When the<br />

mouse button is released, the stitch direction<br />

will be created. To use the default<br />

stitch direction, you could press<br />

ENTER on the keyboard instead of clicking<br />

and dragging across the form.<br />

8. Stitches will be generated once the<br />

stitch direction has been determined.<br />

Watch for Clues<br />

Watch the Status Bar will prompt you and the<br />

cursor will change as you move through the steps of<br />

creating a complex fill.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 4 Rev: 09/30/09


Steps for Traditional Input Mode<br />

Plan it Out!<br />

As you proceed through your elements,<br />

4<br />

5<br />

think about the direction of the stitching.<br />

Try to complete simple shapes in one fluid<br />

7<br />

fill. If a fill has to sew back towards with itself,<br />

there is the possibility that it will push a<br />

3<br />

2<br />

1<br />

6<br />

ripple of fabric back with it. This will create<br />

a line of fabric where the fill doesn’t meet<br />

up. This effect can be minimized with the<br />

use of appropriate underlay, but sewing in<br />

one direction can alleviate any potential<br />

issues with material push.<br />

Stitch angle<br />

In this example, the stitches have pushed a<br />

ripple of material and don’t quite meet in<br />

the final sewout.<br />

Stitch angle<br />

By altering the stitch direction and the entry<br />

and exit points, a much smoother final<br />

sewout can be achieved. These edits can<br />

be made using the tools discussed on<br />

page nine.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 5 Rev: 09/30/09


Complex Fill Input (Unafil Input Mode)<br />

Unafil Input Mode<br />

The Complex Fill Input Method (Unafil Input<br />

Mode) can be used to create shapes with<br />

multiple stitch directions. The Unafil Input<br />

Mode can even create multiple regions in a<br />

single fill that can contain opposing stitch angles.<br />

To create a Unafil Input Mode, you must<br />

first select the tool by left-clicking on the icon<br />

in the input toolbar. If the tool is not visible,<br />

you may need to select it from the tool flyout.<br />

To create a Complex Fill with the Unafil Input<br />

Method, follow the steps below. Be sure to<br />

watch the status bar in DesignShop for<br />

prompts to guide you through the creation of<br />

the element.<br />

1. Select the Complex Fill Input Method<br />

(Uanfil Input Mode)<br />

2. Input the wireframe outline of the complex<br />

fill by left-clicking on the mouse to<br />

create straight points and right-clicking on<br />

the mouse to create curve points. Try to<br />

use as few points as possible. Lines are the<br />

straightest when between two straight<br />

points, and curves are smoother when<br />

fewer points are used. While fewer points<br />

are ideal, avoid creating curves that exceed<br />

180° in any set of three points.<br />

3. To complete the shape, press ENTER on<br />

your keyboard. This will connect the line<br />

between the first and last point, closing<br />

the shape.<br />

4. If the shape has holes or places that you<br />

do not wish to have stitches, you may<br />

digitize a wireframe outline around those<br />

areas next, pressing ENTER after each<br />

one. When you have finished adding any<br />

holes, press ENTER again.<br />

5. Now, you can input any splice lines<br />

that are needed. To input a splice line,<br />

click from one edge of the fill and drag<br />

to the other. The splice line will show in<br />

green. Splice lines divide a fill into<br />

smaller regions. Each region can contain<br />

its own stitch direction. Press ENTER<br />

on the keyboard when all desired<br />

splice lines have been placed.<br />

6. Input your Entry Point by clicking where<br />

you would like the fill to start stitching.<br />

Many times, this will be where the previous<br />

element ended. The last stitch of the<br />

previous element is displayed by a white<br />

crosshair. This can be inside or outside the<br />

wireframe shape.<br />

7. Now, Input the exit point. This is where you<br />

would like the fill to end. This too can be<br />

inside or outside the wireframe shape.<br />

8. Lastly, stitch directions must be determined.<br />

To do this, left-click and drag across the<br />

form or region, using the line created to<br />

control the stitch angle. When the mouse<br />

button is released, the stitch direction will<br />

be created. Continue adding stitch directions<br />

for all spliced regions. If desired, multiple<br />

stitch directions can be added to one<br />

region to create a fan effect. Stitch direction<br />

lines will be displayed as a blue line<br />

with black squares on each end.<br />

9. Optional – While determining stitch directions,<br />

you may also define end lines. End<br />

lines are used to both determine a stitch<br />

direction and stop the stitching before<br />

the wireframe edge of a shape. Most<br />

commonly, this feature is used to compensate<br />

for the push of stitches or to ensure<br />

a full stitch at the end of a shape. To<br />

create an end line, right-click and drag<br />

from one edge of the element to the<br />

other. An end line will be created and<br />

displayed as a red line. The stitches will<br />

also stop at that line.<br />

10. Press ENTER to complete the shape.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 6 Rev: 09/30/09


Steps for Unafil Input Mode<br />

A Fill of a Different Direction<br />

With the Unafil Input Mode, many different<br />

stitch directions can be input for one wireframe outline.<br />

This can be used to create a sense of movement<br />

or depth in a design.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 7 Rev: 09/30/09


Complex Fill Input (Manual Input Mode)<br />

Manual Input Mode<br />

The Complex Fill Input Method (Manual Input<br />

Mode) will create shapes without stitches.<br />

The entry points, exit points, and stitch directions<br />

can be determined later using their respective<br />

editing tools. To use the Manual Input<br />

Mode, you must first select the tool by<br />

left-clicking on the icon in the input toolbar. If<br />

the tool is not visible, you may need to select<br />

it from the tool flyout.<br />

To create a Complex Fill with the Manual<br />

Input Method, follow the steps below. Be<br />

sure to watch the status bar in DesignShop<br />

for prompts to guide you through the creation<br />

of the element.<br />

fewer points are used. While fewer points<br />

are ideal, avoid creating curves that exceed<br />

180° in any set of three points.<br />

3. To complete the shape, press ENTER on<br />

your keyboard. This will connect the line<br />

between the first and last point, closing<br />

the shape and completing the element.<br />

There are no stitches in the shape at this<br />

point and it is displayed as a Vector Fill in<br />

the Project View.<br />

4. Holes, entry points, exit points, splice<br />

lines and stitch directions lines can be<br />

added to the element later.<br />

1. Select the Complex Fill Input Method<br />

(Manual Input Mode)<br />

2. Input the wireframe outline of the complex<br />

fill by left-clicking on the mouse to<br />

create straight points and right-clicking on<br />

the mouse to create curve points. Try to<br />

use as few points as possible. Lines are the<br />

straightest when between two straight<br />

points, and curves are smoother when<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 8 Rev: 09/30/09


Element Editing Tools<br />

Just below the input toolbar,<br />

you’ll find the editing tools. These<br />

tools are used for changing existing<br />

complex fills, or converting<br />

manual and vector fills into<br />

stitches. They can also be used<br />

on many column elements.<br />

To use these tools, you must first<br />

have the element that you wish<br />

to modify selected.<br />

Insert Hole Into Selected Element<br />

1. To insert a hole into a complex, manual,<br />

or vector fill, select the element.<br />

2. Select the Insert Hole tool.<br />

3. Input the wireframe outline of the hole<br />

by left-clicking on the mouse to create<br />

straight points and right-clicking on the<br />

mouse to create curve points.<br />

4. To complete the shape, press ENTER on<br />

your keyboard. This will connect the line<br />

between the first and last point, closing<br />

the shape and completing the hole.<br />

Insert Splice<br />

1. To insert a splice into a complex, manual,<br />

or vector fill, select the element.<br />

2. Select the Insert Splice tool. (Insert Curved<br />

Splice and Auto Compute Splice can<br />

also be found in the flyout.)<br />

3. Left-click and drag across the form<br />

where a splice line is desired.<br />

4. Press ENTER to finish editing splices.<br />

Insert Entry/Exit Points<br />

This tool is used change the entry and exit points<br />

of an element. The entry and exit points of and<br />

element can also be changed by selecting the<br />

element and the clicking on the entry or exit<br />

point and dragging it to the desired location.<br />

If multiple elements are selected, this tool can<br />

be used to resequence those elements, starting<br />

where the entry point is placed and ending<br />

where the exit point is placed.<br />

1. To insert an entry point and an exit point<br />

into a complex, manual, or vector fill, select<br />

the element.<br />

2. Then, select the Insert Entry/Exit Points tool.<br />

3. Click where you want the element to start<br />

stitching. An entry point will be inserted.<br />

4. Click where you want the element to finish<br />

stitching. An exit point will be inserted.<br />

Insert Stitch Direction<br />

1. To insert or edit a stitch direction into a complex,<br />

manual, or vector fill, select the element.<br />

2. Select the Insert Stitch Direction tool.<br />

(Insert Curved Direction Line and Auto<br />

Compute Direction Lines can also be<br />

found in the flyout.)<br />

3. Left-click and drag across the form<br />

where a stitch direction line is desired.<br />

Right-click and drag across the form to<br />

create an end line.<br />

4. Press ESC to deselect the tool when<br />

finished editing stitch directions.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Fills.pub 9 Rev: 09/30/09


Walk<br />

Input Method<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Digitizing Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Digitizing Tools and Basic Functions<br />

Selecting a Tool<br />

Click on the desired tool in the input toolbar<br />

• If you don’t see the desired tool, it may be<br />

necessary to select the tool from a flyout.<br />

• To access a flyout, click and hold on<br />

the tool within the same tool family.<br />

After a half second, the other tools<br />

within this family will appear at the<br />

right. You may then select your desired<br />

tool. This newly selected tool will now<br />

be displayed in the input toolbar for this<br />

tool family.<br />

• Tools with flyouts are indicated by a<br />

small black arrow in the lower right corner<br />

of the tool.<br />

Click & Hold<br />

½ Second<br />

Creating the Elements<br />

After selecting a digitizing tool and setting<br />

the properties, you can create the elements<br />

in the view window.<br />

• Left Click = Creates a Straight Point<br />

• Right Click = Creates a Curve Point<br />

• Click & Drag = Pulls Bezier Handles from<br />

a point as you digitize<br />

• [Backspace] = Deletes the last input<br />

point you created<br />

• [Enter] = Completes the element or<br />

moves to the next step of an element<br />

• [Ctrl] + [Enter] = Completes a column<br />

with the exit point on the opposite side<br />

• [Shift] + [Enter] = Closes an open shape<br />

and completes the element<br />

• Holding [Alt] = Constrains line angles to<br />

15° increments<br />

• [Esc] = Removes all points from the element<br />

• [Esc] x 2 = Deselects Input Tool<br />

• Watch the Status Bar for prompts when using<br />

the different input tools<br />

Selecting Properties<br />

Once a digitizing tool or an element is selected,<br />

you can change the properties on<br />

the dynamic properties bar.<br />

Economy of Points<br />

Use as few points as possible to create your<br />

shapes when digitizing. The fewer points an element<br />

has, the easier that element is to edit and scale. A<br />

straight line doesn’t get any straighter by adding<br />

more straight points to it. A straight line is most<br />

effectively created by two straight points.<br />

When working with curves, try stay within 180°<br />

in any sequence of three points.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Walks.pub 2 Rev: 08/12/09


DesignShop Symbols<br />

Icons<br />

Straight Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Curve Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Bezier Handle<br />

(From a Straight Point, handles work independently)<br />

(From a Curve Point, handles work in tandem)<br />

Entry Point<br />

(Indicates the start of an element)<br />

Exit Point<br />

(Indicates the end of an element)<br />

Last Stitch of Previous Element<br />

(Displays the last stitch of the previous element. If you are creating<br />

the first element of the design, it indicates the origin of the design)<br />

Cursors<br />

Edit Mode<br />

(You can select elements)<br />

Cursor Over an Element<br />

(You can click and drag to move the element)<br />

(Hold [Alt] to constrain the movement to the X or Y axis)<br />

Cursor Over a Line<br />

(You can add points along the line)<br />

(Click and drag to move the line)<br />

Cursor Over a Straight Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Curve Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Curve Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Straight Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Entry, Exit, or Handle<br />

(Click and drag to move the point or letter)<br />

(Hold [Ctrl] and click and drag to move the letter off the line)<br />

Insert Hole, Split Line, or Fill Island<br />

(Inserts holes, split lines, or fill islands into selected elements)<br />

Insert Entry/Exit Points<br />

(Insert or change the entry and exit points of the selected element)<br />

(Can also resequence with multiple elements selected)<br />

Insert Splice Line<br />

(Inserts slice lines within an element)<br />

Insert Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Inserts stitch direction lines within an element)<br />

Stitch Direction Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Wireframe Editing Mode)<br />

(Indicates the stitch direction of an element)<br />

Other Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates a stitch direction line across a form. Multiple<br />

stitch direction lines can be used to create<br />

different effects. Created by clicking and dragging<br />

across an element with the stitch direction tool)<br />

End Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates an end line before the end of the<br />

shape. This allows for the compensation of stitch<br />

push. Created by right-click and dragging across<br />

an element with the stitch direction tool)<br />

Splice Lines<br />

(Breaks up larger, more complex shapes into smaller<br />

regions. Each region can have its own stitch direction<br />

line. Created by clicking and dragging across<br />

an element with the splice tool. This is usually done<br />

at a junction or odd angle in the shape.)<br />

Singleline Width<br />

(Indicates the width of a single line column. The<br />

width of the column can be changed by clicking<br />

on one of the points of the width and dragging.)<br />

DSV9_QRG_Walks.pub 3 Rev: 08/12/09


Walk Input Method<br />

The Common Tools<br />

Walk Normal<br />

• Creates a single running stitch<br />

• Useful as Travel Stitches<br />

• Used to travel from one point in a design<br />

to another without trimming<br />

• Big factor in design efficiency<br />

• Work well for small detail work<br />

• Used for digitizing a manual underlay<br />

Walk Normal Retrace & Walk Bean<br />

Walk Normal Retrace elements are two<br />

layers of thread. Walk Bean elements are usually<br />

three layers of thread. Using these two<br />

elements is a very effective way to outline<br />

smaller designs without trimming.<br />

The difference between two layers of<br />

thread and three layers is difficult to see.<br />

Walk Bean<br />

• Creates a multi-layered running stitch<br />

• Each stitch steps forward, back, and<br />

forward again.<br />

• Increasing the Bean Thickness would<br />

increase the number of times each<br />

stitch repeats.<br />

• Used for detail work that is too small for a satin<br />

• Sometimes used for small borders<br />

Auto Scroll<br />

When using an input tool, if you move<br />

your cursor off of the view window, the screen<br />

will pan for you. To stop the panning, simply<br />

move your cursor back into the view window.<br />

You can change the panning speed or<br />

turn off this option by going to Tools > Options<br />

> Preferences, and changing the settings<br />

under Auto Scroll.<br />

Properties<br />

Stitch Length<br />

• Changes the length of stitches within the<br />

walk element The stitch length is the distance<br />

between needle penetrations.<br />

• Longer stitches stay up out of the nap<br />

of the material better, but if the stitches<br />

are too long, they will snag.<br />

• Shorter stitches follow curves better<br />

• Keep stitch lengths between 15 -40 points<br />

Retrace<br />

• The walk element will trace back over<br />

itself to end where it began<br />

• The needle penetrations line up<br />

Offset<br />

• Used to prevent needle penetrations lining<br />

up on a walk retrace.<br />

Curve Compensation<br />

Example of Curve Compensation<br />

• Shortens the stitch length inside curves<br />

Bean Thickness<br />

• Adjusts the layers in a Walk Bean<br />

DSV9_QRG_Walks.pub 4 Rev: 08/12/09


Creating a Walk Element<br />

Straights, Curves, and Quantity of Points<br />

1. 2.<br />

2.<br />

1.<br />

3.<br />

Straight Lines<br />

To create a straight line using a walk input<br />

method, simply choose the tool, then<br />

1. Left-click to create a straight point at<br />

the beginning of the line.<br />

2. Move the mouse to the end of the line<br />

and left-click to create a straight point at<br />

the end of the line. (If you want to constrain<br />

the line angle to 15° increments,<br />

hold [Alt] while moving the mouse.)<br />

3. Press [Enter] on your keyboard to complete<br />

the element.<br />

Curve Lines<br />

To create a curve line using a walk input<br />

method, simply choose the tool, then<br />

1. Left-click to create a straight point at<br />

the beginning of the line.<br />

2. Move to the center of the curve and<br />

right-click to create a curve point.<br />

3. Move to the end of the line and leftclick<br />

to create a straight point.<br />

4. Press [Enter] on your keyboard to complete<br />

the element.<br />

Complex Shapes<br />

• When creating curved segments, try to<br />

divide the curves into equal portions<br />

and use as few points as possible. However,<br />

if a curve exceeds 180°, use multiple<br />

curve points.<br />

• To create Sharp angles, use a straight<br />

point. Straight points allow a line to<br />

change drastically from a curve to a<br />

straight line, or from one angle to another.<br />

Straight Points vs. Curve Points<br />

• Both straight points and curve points<br />

can have Bezier handles extending<br />

from them.<br />

2.<br />

1.<br />

6.<br />

1. Straight<br />

2. Curve<br />

3. Straight<br />

5.<br />

4.<br />

4. Straight<br />

5. Curve<br />

6. Straight<br />

7. [Enter]<br />

3.<br />

Straight points have<br />

Bezier handles that<br />

can be moved independently.<br />

Curve points have<br />

Bezier handles that<br />

move in tandem.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Walks.pub 5 Rev: 08/12/09


Walk Input Method<br />

The Less Common Tools<br />

Walk Jump<br />

• Walk jumps are an older command<br />

that are no longer used very often.<br />

• Defines a path, but no stitches will be<br />

made along that path.<br />

• Used to move the frame on the machine<br />

without sinking stitches.<br />

Walk Decorative<br />

C:\Designs\Graphics\Teepee.bmp<br />

• Creates a repeating pattern along the<br />

input line<br />

Try to digitize this graphic allowing only 2-3<br />

• Orientation of the pattern is dependent<br />

on the direction the element<br />

was digitized<br />

layers of stitching with no trims.<br />

• Mostly used for decorative elements Walk Sequin<br />

• Creates a line of sequins<br />

• Fixing stitches for the sequins are set in<br />

Object Properties<br />

• Mostly used for decorative elements<br />

• Requires fairly advances digitizing knowledge<br />

C:\Designs\Graphics\Lines.bmp<br />

This design can be great practice for digitizing curves.<br />

Manual Stitch<br />

(Available Through the Flyout)<br />

• Not used very often<br />

• Only sinks a stitch on input points<br />

• Has no Properties or Curves<br />

• Used for creating your own Tie Ins and Tie Offs<br />

• Used for creating your own Sequin Fixing<br />

Stitches<br />

• Manual stitches can be used for traveling<br />

over a satin stitch<br />

DSV9_QRG_Walks.pub 6 Rev: 08/12/09


EDITING<br />

Change Properties for the Entire Design<br />

1. Right click on the design name in the Project Tab. Choose “Properties” from the drop-down<br />

menu. Or double click on the Design name.<br />

2. “All Elements” will display in the Object Property Box. You can change the Tie In/Off, Scale,<br />

View and Styles. Change All Elements to Multi-stitch Line Elements and you can globally set<br />

Top Stitching parameters to the design (underlay, pull comp, effects, advanced).<br />

3. Click OK.<br />

Remove/Add Stitches to a Design (Global Scale Factors)<br />

1. Click on the Tools down Menu.<br />

2. Select Scale Factors.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 1 Rev: 4/08/09


3. Change the column densities, fill densities and stitch lengths by percentages for the entire<br />

design. By adding 10% to Column Density and Fill Density, you can quickly take out some<br />

extra stitches. This is a good thing to do with stock designs that are sewing out “bullet proof”<br />

(they just have too many stitches and the embroidery is hard and tight).<br />

EXAMPLE: This feature will adjust each property value by the percentage value entered. If<br />

there are two fills in the design, one at 4.0 density and one at 5.0 density, a percentage value of<br />

80% will take out 20 percent of the stitches for each fill density.<br />

Cost Factors<br />

This feature allows the user to adjust the design to achieve a given cost.<br />

1. Click on the Tools drop down menu.<br />

2. Select Cost Factors.<br />

Select Entire Design<br />

1. Hold Down the CTRL Key and press the letter “A” on the keyboard (CTRL+A).<br />

…OR<br />

2. Click the Edit Mode Tool.<br />

3. Hold down Left mouse button and drag a box around entire design.<br />

…OR<br />

1. Click on the “Select the entire project” tool on the Toolbar.<br />

2. The entire design will now have boxes around it.<br />

…OR<br />

3. Click on the Design Level in the Project View<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 2 Rev: 4/08/09


Select By Color<br />

1. On the color palette, right click on the color you want to select.<br />

2. Click “hide other colors.”<br />

3. Click the Edit Mode Tool.<br />

4. Left click and drag a box around the entire displayed color.<br />

…OR<br />

1. On the right side of the screen (Project View), click the first element of the desired color you<br />

want to select.<br />

2. Hold down the Shift key.<br />

3. Click the last element of the desired color.<br />

4. The range of elements in between is selected.<br />

5. Or if the color is not part of a group of elements use the Control to select individual<br />

elements.<br />

…OR<br />

6. Click on the color level in the Project View.<br />

Adding and Moving Color Elements in the Project View<br />

1. To change the color of an element – Click on the element in the Project View or View<br />

Window. Then click on the color on the color palette or right click and choose “Color…” from<br />

the drop-down menu.<br />

2. To move an element(s) and keep the same color - Drag the element and drop element<br />

below insertion line.<br />

3. To move an element and adopt the color – Hold the Shift + Drag element, drop element<br />

below insertion line.<br />

4. To adopt the prior color – Click on the symbol in the Project View.<br />

Selecting more than one Input Point<br />

1. In the project view, click first input point.<br />

2. Hold CTRL key.<br />

3. Click other input points to add to the selection .<br />

OR<br />

4. Use the Custom Select Tool to select multiple points by clicking and drawing a box<br />

around the points you want to select then press enter.<br />

Deleting Wireframe Input Points<br />

1. In the project view, left click on the wireframe point.<br />

2. Press the Delete key on the keyboard.<br />

3. Notice the change immediately on the screen.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 3 Rev: 4/08/09


Bezier Editing Commands<br />

Points:<br />

1. Drag point – drags point+bezier handles connected to point.<br />

2. Alt+drag point-constrain line.<br />

3. Ctrl+drag point – generates arc through point and previous/next point.<br />

4. Ctrl+drag bezier point – fixes slope of bezier handle while dragging.<br />

5. Shift+click point – converts point to/from straight/curve.<br />

6. Shift+drag on point – adds bezier handle to point.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 4 Rev: 4/08/09


7. Double click on a point– brings up dialog to manually edit point type/coordinates.<br />

8. Left click on a line– insert straight point.<br />

9. Right click on a line –insert curve point.<br />

10. Click+drag while on a line – adjusts the line without adding a point.<br />

11. Ctrl+click+drag while on a line – adjusts the line without adding a point (prevents<br />

accidentally inserting point, unlike click+drag).<br />

12. Ctrl+right click on a line– convert bezier segment to straight segment.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 5 Rev: 4/08/09


Auto-Sequence<br />

1. This feature is used to eliminate trims in designs within the same color. Also this feature<br />

can eliminate unnecessary color changes in a design.<br />

2. Select all the elements within the same color.<br />

3. Right click select Operations>Auto Sequence from the pop up list.<br />

4. Check Minimize Jumps and Auto Entry Exit.<br />

5. Click OK.<br />

Editing Stitch Direction Lines of an Element<br />

1. Select the element on your screen.<br />

2. Click on the Insert Stitch Direction Tool .<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 6 Rev: 4/08/09


3. You will now be able to drag the stitch direction to another direction.<br />

4. Click on the Edit Mode Tool when done.<br />

Move Start and Exit Points of an Element<br />

1. Select the element on the screen.<br />

2. The green circle represents where the element will start stitching. The red X represents<br />

where the element will end stitching – this is typically where the lock stitch will be placed.<br />

3. Click, hold and drag to move these points.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Editing 7 Rev: 4/08/09


Webinar<br />

Appliqué / Tackle Twill<br />

DesignShop V9 Appliqué Webinar Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Appliqué / Tackle Twill - Sewing Process<br />

Appliqué or Tackle Twill designs are designs that are specifically digitized for using fabric<br />

instead of stitches to fill in an area of a design. Usually a pattern is needed and<br />

there are many techniques used to make an appliqué pattern. Below is the process<br />

for sewing appliqué on the embroidery machine.<br />

The Appliqué Sewing Process<br />

Locator Stitch<br />

Appliqué Fabric<br />

Tack down Stitch<br />

#1 The appliqué<br />

locater stitch<br />

(outline stitch) is<br />

sewn on the fabric.<br />

If an appliqué<br />

stop is programmed,<br />

the<br />

machine will stop<br />

sewing between the color<br />

changes.<br />

#2 The appliqué fabric is<br />

placed on top of locater<br />

stitch (spray adhesive can be<br />

used to hold fabric in place).<br />

#3 The appliqué tack down<br />

stitch is sewn next. This can<br />

be a column or a walk element.<br />

This stitch is used to<br />

hold the fabric down.<br />

Cover Stitch<br />

#4 Tackle Twill look! The<br />

cover stitch is turned off.<br />

#5 The appliqué cover stitch<br />

is sewn after the tack down<br />

stitch. This is usually a satin<br />

stitch. (if the tack down stitch<br />

is not turned off).<br />

#6 Appliqué complete<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 2 Rev: 02/08/10


The Appliqué Sew Process on the AMAYA<br />

1.Hoop Fabric to sew the<br />

Appliqué<br />

2. Place the hoop on the<br />

machine<br />

3. The 1st stitch to sew is the<br />

appliqué locater stitch. .<br />

4. If an appliqué command is inserted in<br />

the color sequence, the machine will stop<br />

and fame forward. Place the appliqué<br />

fabric exactly on top of the locator stitch.<br />

5. The next stitch to sew is the tack down<br />

stitch. This holds the fabric in place<br />

6. The cover stitch will sew next<br />

7. Final sew out!<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 3 Rev: 02/08/10


Example 1: Tackle Twill Design<br />

Locator Stitch<br />

(sews 1st)<br />

Tackle Twill Stitch<br />

(sews 2nd on top<br />

of locater stitch)<br />

Process<br />

1. Locater Stitch is sewn on garment<br />

2. Machine will stop and frame forward (if appliqué stop is programmed)<br />

3. Fabric letters are placed on top of locater stitch<br />

4. Press start on AMAYA machine keypad<br />

5. Frame will move back to sew position and Tackle Twill stitch will tack down fabric<br />

Example 2: Appliqué Design<br />

(basic design NOT using DS Appliqué feature)<br />

1. Locator Stitch<br />

(color 1<br />

2. Tack down Stitch<br />

(color 2)<br />

3. Cover Stitch<br />

(color 2)<br />

An appliqué command is inserted<br />

between the 1st and<br />

2nd color change . This will<br />

force the machine to stop and<br />

the frame will come forward.<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 4 Rev: 02/08/10


Object Properties: Appliqué<br />

(DesignShop Pro & Pro+)<br />

Appliqué: General<br />

Background Type (fabric)<br />

The background simulates the appliqué fabric,<br />

choose from the below choices<br />

• None<br />

• Solid Color (default)<br />

• Cross Hatch<br />

• Graphic—Allows for a scan of the material<br />

Color Change Enabled<br />

This is the appliqué stop at the embroidery<br />

machine. After the locater stitch is sewn,<br />

the machine will stop stitching (if the Appliqué<br />

stop was programmed in).<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 5 Rev: 02/08/10


Appliqué: Tackdown Stitch<br />

Object Type: Column<br />

• This is the type of stitch that will tack<br />

down the fabric to hold it in place.<br />

Column Width<br />

• How wide the column will be. The default<br />

is 30 points<br />

Inside / Outside<br />

• Use the slider bar to set how much of<br />

your column is offset on the inside of<br />

the element and how much in on the<br />

outside of the element<br />

After the appliqué fabric is in position, the<br />

edges are tacked down.<br />

80 % of the stitch is<br />

on the inside of the<br />

heart and 20% of<br />

the stitch is on the<br />

outside of the<br />

stitch.<br />

OR<br />

Object Type: Walk<br />

• This is the type of stitch that will tack<br />

down the fabric to hold it in place<br />

•<br />

Walk Stitch Offset<br />

• The inset of the stitch. The default is –15<br />

After the appliqué is in position, the edges<br />

are tacked down.<br />

The walk stitch is<br />

inset is -15 points<br />

from the edge of<br />

the appliqué outline.<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 6 Rev: 02/08/10


Appliqué: Cover Stitch<br />

Column Width<br />

• How wide the column will be. Default is<br />

40 points.<br />

Inside / Outside<br />

• Use the slider bar to set how much of<br />

your column is offset on the inside and<br />

how much in on the outside<br />

For a clean finish, the edges of the appliqué<br />

are hidden with cover stitching.<br />

80 % of the stitch is<br />

on the inside of<br />

the heart and 20%<br />

of the stitch is on<br />

the outside of the<br />

stitch.<br />

Object Properties for Outline, Tackdown and Cover Stitches<br />

Appliqué Outline (Walk) - Also know as the locator stitch<br />

Outline (Walk)<br />

The outline is the appliqué locater stitch. The material is<br />

cut to the same size as this line. This allows you to position<br />

the appliqué piece accurately on the fabric.<br />

• Stitch Type<br />

• Stitch Length<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 7 Rev: 02/08/10


Appliqué Tackdown (Top Stitching)<br />

Tackle<br />

• Used mostly for numbers on sports<br />

items / sports uniforms<br />

Satin<br />

• Used for appliqué designs as the cover<br />

stitch<br />

Zigzag<br />

• Used for appliqué designs<br />

E Stitch<br />

• Used for appliqué designs<br />

Appliqué Cover (Top Stitching)<br />

Tackle<br />

• Used mostly for numbers on sports<br />

items / sports uniforms<br />

Satin<br />

• Used for appliqué designs. This type of<br />

stitch is almost always the cover stitch<br />

Zigzag<br />

• Used for appliqué designs<br />

E Stitch<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 8 Rev: 02/08/10


Appliqué Lettering Conversion<br />

(DS Pro and Pro+)<br />

Other Appliqué Techniques<br />

Change Element Type<br />

• Input letters<br />

• Right click and choose “Operations”<br />

then “Change Element Type” (or hold<br />

down the control key and click on<br />

the appliqué tool)<br />

• Choose Appliqué and “replace”<br />

• Appliqué properties are now available<br />

Appliqué Custom Shapes<br />

(DS Pro an d Pro+)<br />

Custom Shapes<br />

• Select Appliqué Input Tool<br />

• Select Automatic Custom<br />

Shape Input Tool<br />

• Choose Shape, click and hold to<br />

drag shape to view window<br />

• Appliqué properties are now available<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 9 Rev: 02/08/10


Object Properties - Miter Effect<br />

(DS Pro and Pro+)<br />

Corners—Miter<br />

• Type 1—mostly used for Appliqué. This<br />

type ends the corner in a point and<br />

has a more finished overlap.<br />

• Type 2—mostly used for Tackle Twill<br />

Type 1 Type 2<br />

Save Appliqué Outline<br />

(DS Pro and Pro+)<br />

This feature will automatically save the appliqué cutline to a separate file if the appliqué is created<br />

using DesignShop software.<br />

• Create an auto appliqué<br />

• Click on File<br />

• Click on “Save Appliqué Outline”<br />

• Type file and click on Save<br />

• Save as ofm or exp file types to sew on fabric. This is a nice way to sew the patterns<br />

for the exact shape. Send this to the AMAYA machine and sew on the appliqué<br />

fabric. Then cut out this exact shape.<br />

• Save as eps or exp to send to a plotter or cutter<br />

Auto Appliqué vs. Manual Appliqué<br />

1. When a design is digitized with DesignShop using the Appliqué auto feature you have<br />

the ability to change any of the appliqué properties.<br />

2. When a design is digitized using another type of software, the appliqué properties will<br />

not be present (ie; Dakota Collectibles designs).<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 10 Rev: 02/08/10


Change a design element to an appliqué element<br />

(DS Pro and Pro+)<br />

• This works best is the element is larger with not much detail.<br />

• Select the element to be the appliqué<br />

• Right click and choose “Operations” then “Change Element Type”<br />

• Choose Appliqué<br />

• Click on “Replace”<br />

• The element is now an appliqué object<br />

• There may be some minor editing that needs to be done.<br />

DSV9_Applique.pub 11 Rev: 02/08/10


Webinar #4<br />

Wireframe Editing<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Lettering & Editing Webinar Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Editing<br />

Selecting Elements<br />

Selecting elements in the View Window<br />

Click on an element to select it<br />

Click and drag a box around multiple<br />

elements<br />

Ctrl + Click to select multiple elements<br />

Selecting element in the Project View<br />

Click on an element to select it<br />

Shift + Click to select multiple consecutive<br />

elements<br />

Ctrl + Click to select multiple nonconsecutive<br />

elements<br />

Right click on an element > Select ><br />

Select All<br />

Select Entire Design<br />

Select Same Type<br />

Deselect All<br />

Deselecting Elements<br />

Click on a blank area in the View<br />

Window<br />

Right click on an element > Select<br />

> Deselect All<br />

Previous and Next Element Buttons<br />

Allows you to select up and down<br />

through layers of stitches<br />

Custom Selection Tool<br />

Click on tool and click and draw<br />

around desired elements ><br />

Enter to finish<br />

Works on elements, wireframe<br />

points, or expanded points<br />

Grouping & Ungrouping Elements<br />

Select multiple elements > Right click > Operations<br />

> Group<br />

Select multiple elements > Click on the<br />

“Group” icon at top of PV<br />

Re-Sequencing Elements<br />

The order of the elements in the Project view<br />

reflects the sew order<br />

Select the elements to be re-sequenced<br />

Drag selected elements to desired<br />

place<br />

OR “Cut” the elements and<br />

“PASTE” them into desired<br />

place<br />

***Elements will be inserted after<br />

the currently selected element<br />

Color Management of Re-sequenced Elements<br />

Elements retain their color information<br />

Hold shift when re-sequencing to<br />

adopt the surrounding color<br />

Adopt color button in the Project View<br />

Converting to Wireframe<br />

Converts a lettering segment or a stitch file<br />

to wireframe<br />

This can allow for easier editing.<br />

May lose some information when converting<br />

from stitch files (fill patterns)<br />

Split Element<br />

Allows you to split up a wireframe object into<br />

two or more pieces<br />

Wireframe Editing (Lettering)<br />

Allows you to edit lettering without converting<br />

it to wireframe pieces<br />

Wireframe Editing (General)<br />

Editing Wireframe Points<br />

Drag a point: Drags the point and<br />

the bezier handles connected<br />

to the point.<br />

Alt + drag: Constrains the line.<br />

Ctrl + drag: Generates an arc<br />

through the point and the<br />

previous/next point.<br />

Ctrl and drag a bezier point: Fixes<br />

the slope of the bezier handle<br />

while dragging.<br />

Shift + click a point: Converts the<br />

point to/from straight/curve.<br />

Shift + drag a point: Adds a bezier<br />

handle to a point.<br />

Double-click: Brings up a dialog to<br />

manually edit the point types<br />

and coordinates.<br />

Editing Wireframe Segments<br />

Left-click: Insert a straight point.<br />

Right-click: Insert a curved point.<br />

Click and drag: Drags a curve.<br />

Ctrl + click + drag: Drags a curve<br />

(prevents accidentally inserting<br />

a point, unlike Click +<br />

drag)<br />

Ctrl + Right-click: Converts a bezier<br />

segment to a straight segment.<br />

Removing Holes<br />

Copy/Pasting Elements<br />

Scaling/Scale Factors<br />

Select elements to be scaled.<br />

Right-Click and select Scale...<br />

Styles<br />

DSV9_WO4_Wireframe_Editing.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Wireframe Editing<br />

DesignShop V9 Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


DesignShop Wireframe Symbols<br />

Icons<br />

Straight Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Curve Point<br />

(Non-Selected points display in blue)<br />

(Selected Points display in black)<br />

Bezier Handle<br />

(From a Straight Point, handles work independently)<br />

(From a Curve Point, handles work in tandem)<br />

Entry Point<br />

(Indicates the start of an element)<br />

Exit Point<br />

(Indicates the end of an element)<br />

Last Stitch of Previous Element<br />

(Displays the last stitch of the previous element. If you are creating<br />

the first element of the design, it indicates the origin of the design.)<br />

Cursors<br />

Edit Mode<br />

(You can select elements)<br />

Cursor Over an Element<br />

(You can click and drag to move the element)<br />

(Hold [Alt] to constrain the movement to the X or Y axix)<br />

Cursor Over a Line<br />

(You can add points along the line)<br />

(Click and drag to move the line)<br />

Cursor Over a Straight Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Curve Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Curve Point<br />

(Click and drag to move the point)<br />

(Hold [Shift] and click on the point to change it to a Straight Point)<br />

Cursor Over a Entry, Exit, or Handle<br />

(Click and drag to move the point or letter)<br />

(Hold [Ctrl] and click and drag to move the letter off the line)<br />

Insert Hole, Split Line, or Fill Island<br />

(Inserts holes, split lines, or fill islands into selected elements)<br />

Insert Entry/Exit Points<br />

(Insert or change the entry and exit points of the selected element)<br />

(Can also resequence with multiple elements selected)<br />

Insert Splice Line<br />

(Inserts slice lines within an element)<br />

Insert Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Inserts stitch direction lines within an element)<br />

Stitch Direction Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Wireframe Editing Mode)<br />

(Indicates the stitch direction of an element)<br />

Other Lines<br />

Stitch Direction Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates a stitch direction line across a form. Multiple<br />

stitch direction lines can be used to create<br />

different effects. Created by clicking and dragging<br />

across an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

End Line<br />

(Stitch Direction Editing)<br />

(Creates an end line before the end of the<br />

shape. This allows for the compensation of stitch<br />

push. Created by right-click and dragging across<br />

an element with the stitch direction tool))<br />

Splice Lines<br />

(Breaks up larger, more complex shapes into smaller<br />

regions. Each region can have its own stitch direction<br />

line. Created by clicking and dragging across<br />

an element with the splice tool. This is usually done<br />

at a junction or odd angle in the shape.)<br />

Singleline Width<br />

(Indicates the width of a single line column. The<br />

width of the column can be changed by clicking<br />

on one of the points of the width and dragging.)<br />

DSV9_QRG_Wireframe_Editing.pub 2 Rev: 04/28/09


Editing Wireframe Points<br />

Drag a point:<br />

• Clicking and dragging on a selected point drags the point and the bezier handles connected<br />

to that point.<br />

Alt + Drag a point:<br />

• Holding the Alt key while dragging a selected point will constrain the movement of that<br />

point to fifteen degree increments.<br />

Ctrl + Drag a point:<br />

• Holding the Ctrl key while dragging on a selected point drags the point and adjusts the<br />

bezier handles connected to that point to generate a perfect arc between the next<br />

and previous points on that line.<br />

Ctrl + Drag a Bezier Handle:<br />

• Holding the Ctrl key while dragging on a Bezier handle fixes the angle of the handle. This means<br />

that even if your move the mouse off of that line, the Bezier handle will remain on the same angle.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Wireframe_Editing.pub 3 Rev: 04/28/09


More Wireframe Point Editing<br />

Shift + Clicking on a point:<br />

• Holding the Shift key while clicking on a point will change it between a straight and a<br />

curve. If you change from a curve point to a straight point, the handles will stay, but<br />

they can be moved independently of each other. Handles on curve points are locked<br />

Double-Clicking on a selected point:<br />

• Double-clicking on a selected point will bring up the digitize point properties box. This will allow<br />

you to choose which type of point you want by clicking one of the radio buttons.<br />

Shift + Dragging on a point:<br />

• Holding the Shift key while dragging on a point will pull a Bezier handle from a point that<br />

doesn’t have one. This is an easy way to curve a line coming off of a straight point.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Wireframe_Editing.pub 4 Rev: 04/28/09


Editing Wireframe Segments<br />

Clicking on a line:<br />

• Left-clicking on a line will add a<br />

straight point<br />

Right-Clicking on a line:<br />

• Right-Clicking on a line will add<br />

a curve point<br />

Clicking + dragging on a line OR Ctrl + Clicking + dragging on a line:<br />

• Clicking and dragging on a line will drag that segment. It will adjust curves as well. This<br />

allows you to edit shapes without adding points. Holding the Ctrl key while doing this<br />

prevents accidentally adding a point.<br />

Ctrl + Right-Clicking on a line:<br />

• Holding the Ctrl key while right-clicking on a line will change it from a curve segment to<br />

a straight segment.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Wireframe_Editing.pub 5 Rev: 04/28/09


Zoom Tools<br />

The zoom tools are used to change the design or image magnification level in the view window. These<br />

tools will not change the size of your design. You will need to experiment with the variety of zoom<br />

options to determine what amount of detail is required. If you hover your mouse over the tool, a tool<br />

tip will come up to display what that tool is.<br />

Graphical Zoom In Tool<br />

This tool is used to zoom in on a specific part of a design.<br />

1. Open a design in DesignShop software.<br />

2. Click on the Graphical Zoom In tool.<br />

3. When you move your mouse to the main view window, your mouse will represent the zoom<br />

tool.<br />

4. Start in the corner on a location of your design, click and hold and drag your curser around the<br />

element – then let go. As you are dragging your mouse, a dotted box will represent the area of<br />

graphical zoom.<br />

5. The area of the design will now fit in the main view window.<br />

6. Click on the Actual Size tool if you need to start again (this one takes some practice).<br />

Zoom In Tool<br />

This tool is used to zoom in on the design in increments.<br />

1. Click on the Zoom In tool.<br />

2. The design will zoom in increments of 20% each time the Zoom In tool is clicked.<br />

3. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

Zoom Out Tool<br />

This tool is used to zoom out on the design in increments.<br />

1. Click on the Zoom Out tool.<br />

2. The design will zoom out in increments of 20% each time the Zoom Out tool is clicked.<br />

3. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Zoom_Tools..QRG 1 Rev: 4/16/09


Actual Size Tool<br />

This tool displays the design on the screen the actual sew size of the design.<br />

1. Click on the Actual Size tool. The design will display actual size in the main view window.<br />

2. If the Actual Size tool is “grayed” out – then you are already viewing your design the actual size<br />

that it will sew.<br />

3. After zooming with any of the other zoom tools, use this tool to quickly view the actual design<br />

size view.<br />

Fit Window Tool<br />

This tool is used to fit the entire design to your screen.<br />

1. Click on the Fit Window tool. The design will now fit to the main view window.<br />

2. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

Fit Selection Tool<br />

This tool is used to fit a selected element of your design to the window.<br />

1. Click on an element of your design in the main view window.<br />

2. Click on the Fit Selection tool.<br />

3. The element will now be fit to your screen. This is a nice way to quickly view an area of your<br />

design.<br />

4. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

Center Selection Tool<br />

view window.<br />

This tool is used to center a selected part of the design to the center of the<br />

1. Click on an element of your design in the main view window.<br />

2. Click on the Center Selection Tool.<br />

3. The element will immediately move to the center of the screen.<br />

4. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

Zoom Previous Tool<br />

This tool is used to zoom to the previous view.<br />

1. Zoom in on a part of a design in the main view window.<br />

2. Click on the Zoom Previous tool.<br />

3. The design will go back to the last previous view.<br />

Zoom Toolbar<br />

screen.<br />

This toolbar is located at the bottom left side of the<br />

1. Click on the dropdown menu to choose different zoom levels, then select the desired level. You<br />

can also type the exact zoom level in the percentage box.<br />

2. Your design or image will display in the chosen zoom level.<br />

3. Click on the Actual Size tool to go back to the actual design size view.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Zoom_Tools..QRG 2 Rev: 4/16/09


The Digitizing Process<br />

& Art File Types<br />

DesignShop V9 Basic Digitizing Quick Reference Guide<br />

6<br />

7<br />

1<br />

5<br />

8<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

9<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


The Digitizing Process<br />

1. Get the Graphic on the Screen<br />

• You can either open a graphic file<br />

or you can insert a graphic file into<br />

an open project. With some graphics,<br />

you can also copy out of one<br />

program and paste into Design-<br />

Shop. If you have a scanner attached<br />

to your computer, you can<br />

also scan directly into DesignShop<br />

by going to File>Scan Image...<br />

• You’ll need to change your “Files of<br />

type” to “All Graphics”.<br />

2. Size the Graphic<br />

• Scale the graphic to the intended<br />

size of the final sewout.<br />

• Many decisions for stitch types are<br />

based on the size of the elements.<br />

Digitizing at one size and then scaling<br />

up or down before sewing out can<br />

lead to thread breaks, snagged<br />

stitches, and registration loss.<br />

3. Plan It Out!!!<br />

• Layers - Consider how you will layer<br />

your design. Embroidery can be very<br />

dimensional. Think about moving from<br />

the background to the foreground.<br />

• Thread Colors - Will the thread colors on<br />

top conceal the ones underneath?<br />

• Pathing - How will you get from one<br />

area to the next? Do you have to<br />

trim? Is there a way to avoid a trim?<br />

• Push - Think about the direction you’re<br />

sewing. Try to sew away from elements<br />

you’ve already sewn. If you sew toward<br />

existing stitching without stabilizing<br />

the area first, a ripple of material<br />

can sometimes be created.<br />

4. Stitch Types & Stitch Directions<br />

• Different stitch types can create a<br />

variety of textures and the illusion of<br />

depth in a design.<br />

• Size range - many times, the size of<br />

an element will dictate the appropriate<br />

stitch type.<br />

• Cross Contour - If you can create<br />

stitches that appear to go across a<br />

form, you can create a more realistic<br />

and three dimensional appearance.<br />

• Stitch Direction - by changing stitch<br />

directions, you alter the way light<br />

plays off of a thread. In this way, you<br />

use one color of thread to create<br />

what appears to be many shades.<br />

5. Set Up Your Properties<br />

• Go to View > Properties to set up the<br />

default properties for the project. Then<br />

click on “Save Current Settings to Defaults”<br />

and save them for the Project.<br />

You may find applying a style to be a<br />

quick way of setting your properties.<br />

6. Input the Elements<br />

• Create your elements using the<br />

DesignShop Input tools. You may<br />

find that digitizing in a contrasting<br />

color is a convenient way to better<br />

see what you are creating.<br />

7. Finish Up<br />

• Make adjustments to the properties.<br />

• Add Tie Stitches.<br />

• Center the design.<br />

• Adjust for Push & Pull.<br />

8. Sew It Out<br />

• Sew out the design on a swatch of material<br />

that is similar to the final product.<br />

9. Final Edits<br />

• Using the sewout as a guide, make any<br />

needed adjustments to your design.<br />

• Sometimes another round of sewouts<br />

and revisions is required.<br />

DSV9_QRG_Digitizing_Process.pub 2 Rev: 06/09/09


Example Digitizing Plan<br />

(This is just one of many ways to digitize this artwork.)<br />

Stitch Direction<br />

6<br />

7<br />

1<br />

5<br />

8<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

9<br />

1. Sky - Fill<br />

2. Top Mountain - Fill<br />

3. Middle Mountain - Fill<br />

4. Bottom Mountain - Fill<br />

5. Water - Fill (Create depth with different<br />

stitch directions for each wave)<br />

6. Tree Top - Fill (avoid trim by traveling under<br />

the trunks and black outline)<br />

7. Tree Trunks - Satin (create rounded effect<br />

with satin. Avoid trim by traveling under<br />

black outline)<br />

8. Sun - Satin for rays, fill for middle (sew rays<br />

first and travel underneath middle of sun.<br />

Cover up the travel stitches with the fill by<br />

sewing the middle last.)<br />

9. Outline - Satin (Outline waves and mountains<br />

first. Cover the travel stitches with<br />

the horizon line, then clean everything up<br />

with the outermost border.)<br />

Art Files - Vector vs. Raster<br />

Vector<br />

• Math Based Art File<br />

• Scalable without loss of quality<br />

• Contains separate elements that can<br />

be selected in DesignShop<br />

• Sources<br />

• Illustration Programs<br />

• File Extensions DSP+ can read<br />

• .eps<br />

• .cdr<br />

• .ai<br />

• .wmf<br />

• .dxf<br />

• .emf<br />

Raster<br />

• Grid Based Art File<br />

• Pixelates when enlarged<br />

• Sources<br />

• Scanners<br />

• Cameras<br />

• Image Editing Programs<br />

• File Extensions DSP can read<br />

• .bmp<br />

• .jpg<br />

• .pcx<br />

• .tif<br />

• .png<br />

DSV9_QRG_Digitizing_Process.pub 3 Rev: 06/09/09


AMAYA XT, AMAYA BRAVO<br />

& AMAYA OS V9<br />

AMAYA OS V9 Classroom Notes & Quick Reference Guide<br />

* This document uses the label of “AMAYA” to refer to<br />

the AMAYA, AMAYA XT, and the AMAYA BRAVO.<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Contents of Class<br />

Page 3<br />

4<br />

4<br />

5<br />

8<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

Introductions<br />

Machine Configuration<br />

Bobbins<br />

Thread<br />

Needles<br />

Backing<br />

AMAYA Keypad<br />

Loading Sequence<br />

Adjusting Presser Foot<br />

Hooping<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

Color Sequence Commands<br />

Color Groups<br />

Settings by Color<br />

17<br />

File Formats<br />

18<br />

Machine Maintenance<br />

19<br />

19<br />

Converting Machine for Caps<br />

Loading Designs for Caps<br />

Cap Hooping<br />

Cap Sewing Basics<br />

Sewouts<br />

Cap Troubleshooting<br />

20<br />

20<br />

Large Icons<br />

Naming Your AMAYAs<br />

21<br />

AMAYA Laser Alignment<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 2 Rev: 06/03/09


Connecting the AMAYA<br />

Dongles & Levels of AMAYA OS<br />

There are threes levels of AMAYA OS. They<br />

are Lite, SE, and Flex+.<br />

• SE is for a single AMAYA XT and requires<br />

a dongle.<br />

• Flex+ is for networking multiple AMAYA<br />

XTs and requires a dongle.<br />

• Lite is slightly limited, but it requires no<br />

dongle to run.<br />

More information on AMAYA OS Levels is<br />

available in the help system.<br />

Internet Updates<br />

Internet updates are available for both the<br />

OS and the RSA/CSA files. To access these<br />

updates, your computer must be connected<br />

to the internet. This connection should be<br />

made through a separate network card from<br />

the AMAYA. To check for updates, click on<br />

Tools, and then select “Check for Updates…”<br />

or “Check for RSA/CSA Updates…”<br />

Connecting the AMAYA<br />

(1) Ethernet or Crossover cable<br />

Networking multiple machines is a<br />

Flex+ option only<br />

(2) Power<br />

You may want to consider a line<br />

conditioner or uninterruptible<br />

power supply<br />

(3) Serial Number<br />

Located on the side of the machine<br />

(4) On/Off Switch<br />

Daily Start Up Procedure<br />

The proper start up procedure for the AMAYA<br />

is to launch AMAYA OS, wait for the grey<br />

screen to come up, then turn on the AMAYA.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 3 Rev: 06/03/09


Bobbin<br />

We recommend continuous filament spun polyester bobbin thread.<br />

Cleaning the bobbin case<br />

Types of bobbins<br />

Threading up the bobbin case<br />

Testing the bobbin tension<br />

Adjusting the bobbin tension<br />

Reinserting the bobbin case<br />

Bobbin tail<br />

Thread<br />

Types of Thread<br />

Threading the AMAYA<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 4 Rev: 06/03/09


Needles<br />

BACK<br />

SIDE<br />

FRONT<br />

Needle Orientation<br />

Thread Guide<br />

Scarf<br />

Needle Sizes<br />

65/9 70/10 75/11 80/12<br />

Smaller<br />

Larger<br />

Sharp<br />

Needle Points<br />

Ball<br />

Standard<br />

Needle Coatings<br />

Titanium<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 5 Rev: 06/03/09


Choosing a Needle<br />

Choosing the appropriate needle for the job being run is extremely important to the success of<br />

the embroidery. Different fabrics and threads will determine what needle should be used.<br />

General Guidelines<br />

• Ball Point needles are commonly used on knits. The idea behind this is for the slightly<br />

rounded tip of the needle to move the threads of the material out of the way. Common<br />

knit garments include T-shirts and sweatshirts.<br />

• Sharp point needles are sharper than ball points and are generally used on tightly woven<br />

goods. Some good examples of tighter weaves would include canvas, denim, and twill.<br />

• Titanium coated needles create less friction and heat when moving through a material. They<br />

are a good choice for sewing on coated fabrics or embroidering with adhesive backings.<br />

• Smaller needles can clean up the appearance of small lettering and fine details.<br />

• Larger needles create larger holes which can help prevent thread breaks due to friction<br />

when sewing an abrasive materials like a cotton duck jacket.<br />

Fabric Type Needle Size Needle Type Coating<br />

Coated Fabrics 80/12 Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Corduroy 80/12 Sharp<br />

Cotton Sheeting 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Denim 80/12 Sharp<br />

Dress Shirt (Woven) 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Golf Shirt 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Leather 70/10 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Lycra or Spandex 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Nylon Windbreaker 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Satin Jacket 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Sweater (knit) 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Terry Cloth 75/11 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp<br />

Delicate Satins or Sheers 65/9 - 70/10 Ball Point<br />

Twill Caps 75/11 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Note: These values are guidelines only, and you may need to adjust your needle usage according<br />

to the needs of the individual application.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 6 Rev: 06/03/09


Changing a Needle<br />

It is recommended that you change standard needles every 4 - 8 sewing hours. Titanium needles can<br />

last 2 - 3 times that long. The life of a needle depends greatly on the fabric and sewing conditions.<br />

When installing new needles, always use industrial grade needles recommended by <strong>Melco</strong> for use in<br />

the AMAYA BRAVO and AMAYA XT. The needle depth on the AMAYA is set for Organ brand needles.<br />

If you use another brand, you may run into issues. If you want to run with another brand, you<br />

may need to have the needle depth on your AMAYA adjusted.<br />

How to Change a Needle<br />

1. Make sure the safety grabber blade is in the back position before changing a needle. If it is not,<br />

press the Adjustment and Center keys on the AMAYA keypad to move the grabber back.<br />

2. Each needle has a needle clamp set screw that holds it in place.<br />

3. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, turn the needle clamp set screw counterclockwise about ½<br />

turn, until the needle can slide down and out of the needle bar. Do not loosen too much or remove<br />

the set screw. Loosen the screw just enough for the needle to be removed.<br />

4. Embroidery needles have a front and a back side. The needle must be installed correctly or<br />

the sewing quality may suffer. If you install the needle incorrectly, you my also get thread<br />

breaks. The front of the needle has a long groove (thread guide), while the back has and<br />

indented notch (scarf).<br />

5. With the thread guide facing forward and the scarf facing back, slide the needle up and<br />

into the needle clamp as far as it will go. The eye of the needle should be turned 5°to the<br />

right. (There is an acceptable range of 0° - 20° to the right)<br />

6. Re-tighten the needle clamp set screw to hold the needle in place.<br />

Reasons to Change a Needle<br />

• The needle breaks or is bent.<br />

• The thread will consistently fray - this usually means there is a bur on the needle causing it to<br />

fray a part of the thread.<br />

• The needle is dull.<br />

• Sewing conditions change, such as a change in fabric.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 7 Rev: 06/03/09


Backings and Toppings<br />

Cut Away<br />

Standard Backings<br />

Tear Away<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Nylon Mesh ~ Poly Mesh<br />

Water Soluble Toppings and Backings<br />

Other Toppings and Backings<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 8 Rev: 06/03/09


More Backing and Topping Information<br />

Appropriate backing is essential for embroidering most fabrics. Without backing, fabrics can slip<br />

even when they are hooped tightly. Using the proper backing is directly linked to the production<br />

of consistently high quality embroidery. It is important to understand that many different<br />

embroiderers with identical criteria may choose completely different backing and topping formulas<br />

and still achieve successful embroidery results. Experimentation and experience are essential<br />

in creating consistently high quality embroidery. New products are constantly being developed<br />

and introduced. Find the combinations that work best for you.<br />

Tear Away Backing<br />

Tear away backing is a non-woven material that tears easily in any direction and can be easily<br />

removed after embroidery. Tear away is extremely simple and fast to use, but the uses are limited<br />

because it offers little support to unstable fabrics. Some examples of fabrics suitable for<br />

tear away are cotton sheeting, woven dress shirts, denim, terry cloth, hats, and some satins. Be<br />

aware that tear away can be a bit scratchy, and use on fabrics that will be worn against skin<br />

may want to be avoided.<br />

Cut Away Backing<br />

Cut Away backing is a woven or non-woven material that must be cut form the fabric after the<br />

embroidery is complete. This type of backing is used to support the embroidery on the fabric<br />

during and after the embroidery process. It also prevents the fabric from stretching during embroidery.<br />

Cut Away backings are generally used for unstable goods like knits. Examples of a knit<br />

would be a t-shirt, golf shirt, sweater, or a sweatshirt.<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Specialty backings such as poly mesh and nylon mesh are also options. While they may not be<br />

as stable as traditional cut aways, they are much less visible through lighter weight garments.<br />

They also tend to be softer than other backings.<br />

Water soluble backing is also available for jobs that require that no backing be left after the completion<br />

of the embroidery. Be aware that this would require a fairly stable garment as the backing will<br />

be dissolved completely and offer no support once the garment has been laundered.<br />

Toppings<br />

Toppings are used to keep your stitches from falling into the nap of a lofty material like terry<br />

cloth or polar fleece. It can also be used to clean up small lettering and the overall appearance<br />

of your embroidery. Most toppings are water-soluble and can be easily removed after<br />

the embroidery is complete.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 9 Rev: 06/03/09


AMAYA Keypad<br />

Single Key Operations<br />

Key Combinations<br />

Step Back<br />

Step Forward<br />

Move the hoop on the machine<br />

+<br />

Laser<br />

Open/Close the Grabber<br />

+<br />

Start<br />

Stop<br />

Trace the Design Within Selected Hoop<br />

+<br />

Change Sewing Speed<br />

E-Stop<br />

+<br />

Slider<br />

Check the slider for<br />

more commands.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 10 Rev: 06/03/09


Procedure to Run the AMAYA<br />

1. Load Design or Wizard<br />

SE and Flex+ can use either load function.<br />

AOS Lite must use the Load Design Wizard.<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

Lite must use the Load Design Wizard to<br />

enter or change a color sequence.<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

Select the hoop that fits as closely as possible<br />

to the design without going over the<br />

hoop limitations (dotted line).<br />

Lite displays unavailable hoops in grey.<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

AMAYA OS Lite maxes out at 1000<br />

s.p.m. and can only be change on the<br />

keypad of the machine.<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

AMAYA OS SE and Flex+ contain upper<br />

and lower limits for Auto-Actifeed.<br />

6. Orientation<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

Must have a garment loaded<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Hoop<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

12. GO!<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 11 Rev: 06/03/09


Setting Presser Foot Height<br />

On the AMAYA, you can manually adjust the presser foot height in the range of 0.5mm to 3.5mm<br />

above the needle plate. The presser foot height should be changed when the thickness of the material<br />

you are sewing changes dramatically. To adjust the presser foot height, AMAYA OS must be<br />

open, and your AMAYA must be on. A hoop with the fabric you will be using should be installed.<br />

<br />

<br />

WARNING: Do not adjust the presser foot height while the machine is sewing.<br />

Doing so can result in serious injury.<br />

To Adjust the Presser Foot Height<br />

1. Go to the “Tools” drop-down, then<br />

“Maintenance...”<br />

2. In the Maintenance Window, select the Head<br />

Timing tab.<br />

3. If multiple AMAYA machines are assigned to the<br />

same dongle, check the All Machines box to<br />

perform this adjustment for all machines in the<br />

cluster. If this box is not checked, you can select<br />

a single machine from the Machine list.<br />

4. In the Head Timing tab, click the Bottom Center<br />

button. This will place the needle at its lowest<br />

needle depth.<br />

5. Locate the presser foot eccentric (gear/knob)<br />

behind the needlecase. The eccentric is easiest<br />

to access when the needlecase is all the way to<br />

the right (the active needle is on #16).<br />

6. Turn the gear with your fingers to adjust the<br />

presser foot height up or down as needed.<br />

7. Set the presser foot height over a bare (unsewn)<br />

section of the fabric. Set the presser foot so that it is<br />

very close to but not touching the fabric. Leave a<br />

gap between the fabric and the presser foot that is<br />

roughly equal to the thickness of the thread.<br />

8. Click the Head Up button in the Head Timing tab.<br />

9. Click the OK button to close the Maintenance menu.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 12 Rev: 06/03/09


Hooping<br />

Choosing the appropriate hoop and using it correctly is extremely important for successful embroidery.<br />

Here are a few tips to help get the best results. See the Hooping Guide for more detailed information.<br />

• Round hoops give the most even tension of all the hoop shapes.<br />

• Wooden hoops will have registration marks on them. These help maintain<br />

the shape and hold of the hoop.<br />

• Many wooden hoops are double-high, meaning their sides are twice<br />

as tall as normal hoops. They help grip slick or bulky goods because of<br />

the larger surface area and slight tooth the wood provides.<br />

• Choose the smallest hoop that the design will fit in without going over<br />

the hoop limitations (the dotted line in AMAYA OS).<br />

• Adjust the hoop tension before hooping the final garment. If you adjust<br />

the tension of the hoop while the garment is in it, you will increase<br />

your chances of “hoop burn” and create ripples in the garment.<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

After you complete your first sewout of a design, it is a good idea to examine the quality of the<br />

piece and how well it sewed. Reassess the hooping, backing, and machine settings. A few adjustments<br />

now can save you from frustrations later on.<br />

Symptom<br />

Thread breaks<br />

Possible Solutions<br />

Slow down AMAYA. Make sure the piece is hooped properly. Adjust<br />

presser foot. Check bobbin tension. Check needle orientation. Oil the<br />

rotary hook.<br />

Bobbin pulled to top Check bobbin tension. Slow down AMAYA. Adjust presser foot.<br />

Registration loss<br />

Fabric is puckering<br />

Check hooping tension. Slow down AMAYA.<br />

Avoid stretching or pulling the fabric too much when hooping it.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 13 Rev: 06/03/09


Color Sequence Commands (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

Pause<br />

Hold<br />

Stop<br />

Skip<br />

Sequence for Sewing Appliqué<br />

1. Locator Stitch<br />

Color 1<br />

2. Place Appliqué<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

3. Tack-down Stitch 4. Cover Stitch<br />

Color 2<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 14 Rev: 06/03/09


Color Groups (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Color Groups allow users to use multiple needles<br />

with cones of the same thread color on<br />

an AMAYA. If one breaks a thread, it will<br />

move to the next needle with that color.<br />

To use Color Groups,<br />

1. Go into the Color Sequence tab<br />

2. Click on Color Groups. This will open the<br />

Color Group Setup window<br />

3. Check Enable<br />

4. Check Automatic Start After Needle<br />

Change<br />

(If you want the machine to automatically<br />

start sewing with the backup needle.)<br />

To set up a Color Group,<br />

1. Click on the needle you want as your primary<br />

color. (The primary color will be ringed<br />

in green)<br />

2. Click on the needles you want as back up<br />

colors (The back up colors will be ringed in<br />

red)<br />

Back up colors will be grayed out in the<br />

color selection tab.<br />

To set up another color group, click the Next<br />

Group button.<br />

Clear Selection will delete the selected color<br />

group, and Clear All will delete all color groups.<br />

When the machine has cycled through all of the designated needles for a color, it will stop. You<br />

then need to thread up all the needles of that color and reset the machine by pressing the<br />

Needlecase key and the Hoop key on the AMAYA keypad.<br />

Hoop + Needlecase<br />

+<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 15 Rev: 06/03/09


Settings by Color (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Settings by Color allows you to set the design<br />

up so that the machine will change<br />

settings when it changes colors.<br />

An example of when you might use this<br />

would be if you want the machine to slow<br />

down to clean up small letters but sew<br />

faster through the rest of the design. Set<br />

the color of the lettering to sew at a slower<br />

speed.<br />

To turn this feature on, check the Settings<br />

by Color box in the Settings by Color tab.<br />

In the design colors box, click on the color<br />

that you would like to change the settings<br />

for. It will now show as the current color.<br />

Make your settings changes and move on<br />

to the next color you’d like to make<br />

changes to, or click Apply and then OK to<br />

exit the window.<br />

Moving Through a Design (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

You may need to move through a design without<br />

sewing to repair an embroidered piece. An<br />

easy way to do this is to use the Move tab located<br />

in “Settings” under the Tools drop-down.<br />

In this tab you can move to a specific stitch or<br />

the beginning of a specific color by entering the<br />

number of the desired stitch or color and clicking<br />

the Move To button to the right of the field.<br />

The X and Y fields will move the design in the hoop.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 16 Rev: 06/03/09


Embroidery File Formats<br />

Wire Frame (Outline) Files<br />

.cnd - older <strong>Melco</strong> condensed format<br />

.ofm - DesignShop and AOS native format<br />

cnd & ofm<br />

• Elements are outlined shapes that contain<br />

element properties like density,<br />

stitch length, and stitch direction.<br />

• Shapes can be edited.<br />

• cnd files saved from DSV9 save as a<br />

manual stitch<br />

ofm only<br />

• Contains lettering properties. You can<br />

change spelling, font, size, or any other<br />

property of the lettering.<br />

• Notes are available.<br />

• Color information is available.<br />

• Machine settings can be saved. (SE & Flex+)<br />

Scaling a Wire Frame File<br />

You can usually scale a wire frame file up<br />

or down in size about 25%.<br />

Stitch Files<br />

.exp - <strong>Melco</strong> expanded stitch file<br />

.dst - Tajima stitch file<br />

Stitch files do not contain properties. They are<br />

just plotted out needle penetrations. The colors<br />

that show up will be the default colors.<br />

If you open an ofm and see expanded data<br />

in the project view, it is plotted stitch information.<br />

You can save stitch files as ofms to keep<br />

notes and color information, but they will still<br />

be expanded data.<br />

Scaling a Stitch File<br />

Stitch files can usually be scaled 10% up or<br />

down in size, but with the assistance of the<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor, you can push<br />

that to about 25%.<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor<br />

Converts stitch files to wireframe in order to<br />

maintain densities when scaled. This may<br />

change the fill patterns in some designs.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 17 Rev: 06/03/09


Maintenance<br />

• The oiler is plugged with wax. You will need<br />

to clear this before you can use it. Pull out<br />

the brass tip, and hold a lighter under the<br />

tip while slightly squeezing it to dislodge the<br />

wax plug. This will obviously squirt out some<br />

oil, so hold it over a trashcan.<br />

• The maintenance timers will pop up automatically<br />

once the timers have counted<br />

down to 0. They will come up at the end<br />

of the run, and not in the middle.<br />

• If you are working with adhesives or a<br />

material that sheds a lot of debris, you<br />

may want to clean the rotary hook. A<br />

good procedure would be to initiate the<br />

rotary hook maintenance, and use a<br />

penetrating oil. Then let the machine<br />

spin off the excess. Blow out the hook<br />

with compressed or canned air. Now<br />

repeat the Rotary hook maintenance<br />

using the supplied machine oil.<br />

NOTE: Penetrating oils do not provide protection.<br />

Use them to clean only. Promptly<br />

apply the supplied oil for proper lubrication.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 18 Rev: 06/03/09


Sewing Caps<br />

1. Load Design or use Load Wizard<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

XT Extended WACF (AOS SE & Flex+)<br />

CCF/WAD (AOS Lite)<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

Start at 850s.p.m. and adjust from there.<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

6. Orientation<br />

Flip upside-down for caps.<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Cap (Center Hoop won’t work)<br />

Careful - you may not be able to use the<br />

laser to do this. Line up with the needle.<br />

<br />

<br />

Measurements for Caps<br />

X = Distance from bill to start of real curve<br />

Y = Center point for design<br />

X - 1” = safe zone<br />

X - ½” = actual sew field<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

For most caps, take the presser foot all<br />

the way down and go 2 clicks back up.<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

12. GO!<br />

Sew Order for Cap Designs<br />

Bottom Up<br />

Center Out<br />

3. Finish as you go<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 19 Rev: 06/03/09


More AMAYA OS Settings<br />

Larger Icons<br />

Naming Your AMAYAs (Flex+ Only)<br />

AMAYA OS allows you to change the size<br />

of the buttons on the toolbars and the<br />

icons in the machine list.<br />

To make the change, go to the Tools dropdown.<br />

Select Options, and then go to the<br />

Preferences tab. At the bottom of the tab,<br />

there are check boxes that affect the size.<br />

Check or uncheck the boxes to get the<br />

desired size.<br />

If you’re running multiple machines, you<br />

have the ability to name your AMAYAs and<br />

sequence them in the machine.<br />

1. Click the Configure button at the top of<br />

the machine list.<br />

2. Type a name for the selected machine.<br />

Click the Set button. Continue with all<br />

the machines. Click Next to proceed.<br />

3. Select and Add the machines in the order<br />

you want them to appear in the Machine<br />

List. Click Next when you are finished.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 20 Rev: 06/03/09


AMAYA Laser Alignment (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

AMAYA has a laser alignment feature. This feature allows you to line up an embroidery design<br />

to a mark, such as a stripe, on the garment. To do this, you use the hoop and the arrow keys to<br />

move the laser to your first reference point, like the top of stripe on the left side. Press the laser<br />

and an arrow key to confirm this point. Move the laser with the hoop and arrow keys to your<br />

second reference point. Press the laser and an arrow key to confirm this point. Now, press the<br />

laser and the center key. The design will align to the line created by your two reference points.<br />

The placement of the design along the line will depend on the arrow keys used to input the reference<br />

points. The six variations follow.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

AMAYA_OS_v9_Handout.pub 21 Rev: 06/03/09


AMAYA XTS, XT, AMAYA BRAVO<br />

& AMAYA OS V10<br />

AMAYA OS V10 Classroom Notes & Quick Reference Guide<br />

* This document uses the label of “AMAYA” to refer to the<br />

AMAYA, AMAYA XT, AMAYA XTS and the AMAYA BRAVO.<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Contents of Class<br />

Page 3<br />

4<br />

4<br />

5<br />

8<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

17<br />

18<br />

19<br />

20<br />

21<br />

22<br />

22<br />

23<br />

Introductions<br />

Machine Configuration<br />

Bobbins<br />

Thread<br />

Needles<br />

Backing<br />

AMAYA Keypad<br />

Loading Sequence<br />

Adjusting Presser Foot<br />

Hooping<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

Color Sequence Settings<br />

Color Sequence Settings<br />

Color Sequence Commands<br />

Color Groups<br />

Settings By Color<br />

Embroidery File Formats<br />

Machine Maintenance<br />

Converting Machine for Caps<br />

Loading Designs for Caps<br />

Cap Hooping<br />

Cap Sewing Basics<br />

Sewouts<br />

Cap Troubleshooting<br />

Large Icons<br />

Naming Your AMAYAs<br />

AMAYA Laser Alignment<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 2 Rev: 05/21/10


Connecting the AMAYA<br />

Dongles & Levels of AMAYA OS<br />

There are threes levels of AMAYA OS. They<br />

are Lite, SE, and Flex+.<br />

• SE is for a single AMAYA XT and requires<br />

a dongle.<br />

• Flex+ is for networking multiple AMAYA<br />

XTs and requires a dongle.<br />

• Lite is slightly fewer features, but it requires<br />

no dongle to run.<br />

More information on AMAYA OS Levels is<br />

available in the help system.<br />

Internet Updates<br />

Internet updates are available for both the<br />

OS and the RSA/CSA files. To access these<br />

updates, your computer must be connected<br />

to the internet. This connection should be<br />

made through a separate network card from<br />

the AMAYA. To check for updates, click on<br />

Tools, and then select “Check for Updates…”<br />

or “Check for RSA/CSA Updates…”<br />

Connecting the AMAYA<br />

(1) Ethernet or Crossover cable<br />

Networking multiple machines is a<br />

Flex+ option only<br />

(2) Power<br />

You may want to consider a line<br />

conditioner or uninterruptible<br />

power supply<br />

(3) Serial Number<br />

Located on the side of the machine<br />

(4) On/Off Switch<br />

Daily Start Up Procedure<br />

The proper start up procedure for the AMAYA<br />

is to launch AMAYA OS, wait for the grey<br />

screen to come up, then turn on the AMAYA.<br />

Oil the Hook!<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 3 Rev: 05/21/10


Bobbin<br />

We recommend continuous filament spun polyester bobbin thread.<br />

Cleaning the bobbin case<br />

Types of bobbins<br />

Threading up the bobbin case<br />

Testing the bobbin tension<br />

Adjusting the bobbin tension<br />

Reinserting the bobbin case<br />

Bobbin tail<br />

Thread<br />

Types of Thread<br />

Threading the AMAYA<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 4 Rev: 05/21/10


Needles<br />

BACK<br />

SIDE<br />

FRONT<br />

Needle Orientation<br />

Thread Guide<br />

Scarf<br />

Needle Sizes<br />

65/9 70/10 75/11 80/12<br />

Smaller<br />

Larger<br />

Sharp<br />

Needle Points<br />

Ball<br />

Standard<br />

Needle Coatings<br />

Titanium<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 5 Rev: 05/21/10


Choosing a Needle<br />

Choosing the appropriate needle for the job being run is extremely important to the success of<br />

the embroidery. Different fabrics and threads will determine what needle should be used.<br />

General Guidelines<br />

• Ball Point needles are commonly used on knits. The idea behind this is for the slightly<br />

rounded tip of the needle to move the threads of the material out of the way. Common<br />

knit garments include T-shirts and sweatshirts.<br />

• Sharp point needles are sharper than ball points and are generally used on tightly woven<br />

goods. Some good examples of tighter weaves would include canvas, denim, and twill.<br />

• Titanium coated needles create less friction and heat when moving through a material. They<br />

are a good choice for sewing on coated fabrics or embroidering with adhesive backings.<br />

• Smaller needles can clean up the appearance of small lettering and fine details.<br />

• Larger needles create larger holes which can help prevent thread breaks due to friction<br />

when sewing an abrasive materials like a cotton duck jacket.<br />

Fabric Type Needle Size Needle Type Coating<br />

Coated Fabrics 80/12 Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Corduroy 80/12 Sharp<br />

Cotton Sheeting 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Denim 80/12 Sharp<br />

Dress Shirt (Woven) 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Golf Shirt 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Leather 70/10 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Lycra or Spandex 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Nylon Windbreaker 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Satin Jacket 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Sweater (knit) 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Terry Cloth 75/11 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp<br />

Delicate Satins or Sheers 65/9 - 70/10 Ball Point<br />

Twill Caps 75/11 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Note: These values are guidelines only, and you may need to adjust your needle usage according<br />

to the needs of the individual application.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 6 Rev: 05/21/10


Changing a Needle<br />

It is recommended that you change standard needles every 4 - 8 sewing hours. Titanium needles can<br />

last 2 - 3 times that long. The life of a needle depends greatly on the fabric and sewing conditions.<br />

When installing new needles, always use industrial grade needles recommended by <strong>Melco</strong> for use in<br />

the AMAYA BRAVO and AMAYA XT. The needle depth on the AMAYA is set for Organ brand needles.<br />

If you use another brand, you may run into issues. If you want to run with another brand, you<br />

may need to have the needle depth on your AMAYA adjusted.<br />

How to Change a Needle<br />

1. Make sure the safety grabber blade is in the back position before changing a needle. If it is not,<br />

press the Adjustment and Center keys on the AMAYA keypad to move the grabber back.<br />

2. Each needle has a needle clamp set screw that holds it in place.<br />

3. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, turn the needle clamp set screw counterclockwise about ½<br />

turn, until the needle can slide down and out of the needle bar. Do not loosen too much or remove<br />

the set screw. Loosen the screw just enough for the needle to be removed.<br />

4. Embroidery needles have a front and a back side. The needle must be installed correctly or<br />

the sewing quality may suffer. If you install the needle incorrectly, you my also get thread<br />

breaks. The front of the needle has a long groove (thread guide), while the back has and<br />

indented notch (scarf).<br />

5. With the thread guide facing forward and the scarf facing back, slide the needle up and<br />

into the needle clamp as far as it will go. The eye of the needle should be turned 5°to the<br />

right. (There is an acceptable range of 0° - 20° to the right)<br />

6. Re-tighten the needle clamp set screw to hold the needle in place.<br />

Reasons to Change a Needle<br />

• The needle breaks or is bent.<br />

• The thread will consistently fray - this usually means there is a bur on the needle causing it to<br />

fray a part of the thread.<br />

• The needle is dull.<br />

• Sewing conditions change, such as a change in fabric.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 7 Rev: 05/21/10


Backings and Toppings<br />

Cut Away<br />

Standard Backings<br />

Tear Away<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Nylon Mesh ~ Poly Mesh<br />

Water Soluble Toppings and Backings<br />

Other Toppings and Backings<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 8 Rev: 05/21/10


More Backing and Topping Information<br />

Appropriate backing is essential for embroidering most fabrics. Without backing, fabrics can slip<br />

even when they are hooped tightly. Using the proper backing is directly linked to the production<br />

of consistently high quality embroidery. It is important to understand that many different<br />

embroiderers with identical criteria may choose completely different backing and topping formulas<br />

and still achieve successful embroidery results. Experimentation and experience are essential<br />

in creating consistently high quality embroidery. New products are constantly being developed<br />

and introduced. Find the combinations that work best for you.<br />

Tear Away Backing<br />

Tear away backing is a non-woven material that tears easily in any direction and can be easily<br />

removed after embroidery. Tear away is extremely simple and fast to use, but the uses are limited<br />

because it offers little support to unstable fabrics. Some examples of fabrics suitable for<br />

tear away are cotton sheeting, woven dress shirts, denim, terry cloth, hats, and some satins. Be<br />

aware that tear away can be a bit scratchy, and use on fabrics that will be worn against skin<br />

may want to be avoided.<br />

Cut Away Backing<br />

Cut Away backing is a woven or non-woven material that must be cut form the fabric after the<br />

embroidery is complete. This type of backing is used to support the embroidery on the fabric<br />

during and after the embroidery process. It also prevents the fabric from stretching during embroidery.<br />

Cut Away backings are generally used for unstable goods like knits. Examples of a knit<br />

would be a t-shirt, golf shirt, sweater, or a sweatshirt.<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Specialty backings such as poly mesh and nylon mesh are also options. While they may not be<br />

as stable as traditional cut aways, they are much less visible through lighter weight garments.<br />

They also tend to be softer than other backings.<br />

Water soluble backing is also available for jobs that require that no backing be left after the completion<br />

of the embroidery. Be aware that this would require a fairly stable garment as the backing will<br />

be dissolved completely and offer no support once the garment has been laundered.<br />

Toppings<br />

Toppings are used to keep your stitches from falling into the nap of a lofty material like terry<br />

cloth or polar fleece. It can also be used to clean up small lettering and the overall appearance<br />

of your embroidery. Most toppings are water-soluble and can be easily removed after<br />

the embroidery is complete.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 9 Rev: 05/21/10


AMAYA Keypad<br />

Single Key Operations<br />

Key Combinations<br />

Step Back<br />

Step Forward<br />

Move the hoop on the machine<br />

+<br />

Laser<br />

Open/Close the Grabber<br />

+<br />

Start<br />

Stop<br />

Trace the Design Within Selected Hoop<br />

+<br />

Change Sewing Speed<br />

E-Stop<br />

+<br />

Slider<br />

Check the slider for<br />

more commands.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 10 Rev: 05/21/10


Procedure to Run the AMAYA<br />

1. Load Design or Wizard<br />

SE and Flex+ can use either load function.<br />

AOS Lite must use the Load Design Wizard.<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

Lite must use the Load Design Wizard to<br />

enter or change a color sequence.<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

Select the hoop that fits as closely as possible<br />

to the design without going over the<br />

hoop limitations (dotted line).<br />

Lite displays unavailable hoops in grey.<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

AMAYA OS Lite maxes out at 1000<br />

s.p.m. and can only be change on the<br />

keypad of the machine.<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

AMAYA OS SE and Flex+ contain upper<br />

and lower limits for Auto-Actifeed.<br />

6. Orientation<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

Must have a garment loaded<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Hoop<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

12. GO!<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 11 Rev: 05/21/10


Setting Presser Foot Height<br />

On the AMAYA, you can manually adjust the presser foot height in the range of 0.5mm to 3.5mm<br />

above the needle plate. The presser foot height should be changed when the thickness of the material<br />

you are sewing changes dramatically. To adjust the presser foot height, AMAYA OS must be<br />

open, and your AMAYA must be on. A hoop with the fabric you will be using should be installed.<br />

1.<br />

WARNING: Do not adjust the presser foot height while the machine is sewing.<br />

Doing so can result in serious injury.<br />

To Adjust the Presser Foot Height<br />

1. Go to the “Tools” drop-down, then<br />

“Maintenance...”<br />

2. In the Maintenance Window, select the Head<br />

Timing tab.<br />

3. If multiple AMAYA machines are assigned to the<br />

same dongle, check the All Machines box to<br />

perform this adjustment for all machines in the<br />

cluster. If this box is not checked, you can select<br />

a single machine from the Machine list.<br />

4. In the Head Timing tab, click the Bottom Center<br />

button. This will place the needle at its lowest<br />

needle depth.<br />

5. Locate the presser foot eccentric (gear/knob)<br />

behind the needlecase. The eccentric is easiest<br />

to access when the needlecase is all the way to<br />

the right (the active needle is on #16).<br />

6. Turn the gear with your fingers to adjust the<br />

presser foot height up or down as needed.<br />

7. Set the presser foot height over a bare (unsewn)<br />

section of the fabric. Set the presser foot so that it is<br />

very close to but not touching the fabric. Leave a<br />

gap between the fabric and the presser foot that is<br />

roughly equal to the thickness of the thread.<br />

8. Click the Head Up button in the Head Timing tab.<br />

9. Click the OK button to close the Maintenance menu.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 12 Rev: 05/21/10


Hooping<br />

Choosing the appropriate hoop and using it correctly is extremely important for successful embroidery.<br />

Here are a few tips to help get the best results. See the Hooping Guide for more detailed information.<br />

• Round hoops give the most even tension of all the hoop shapes.<br />

• Wooden hoops will have registration marks on them. These help maintain<br />

the shape and hold of the hoop.<br />

• Many wooden hoops are double-high, meaning their sides are twice<br />

as tall as normal hoops. They help grip slick or bulky goods because of<br />

the larger surface area and slight tooth the wood provides.<br />

• Choose the smallest hoop that the design will fit in without going over<br />

the hoop limitations (the dotted line in AMAYA OS).<br />

• Adjust the hoop tension before hooping the final garment. If you adjust<br />

the tension of the hoop while the garment is in it, you will increase<br />

your chances of “hoop burn” and create ripples in the garment.<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

After you complete your first sewout of a design, it is a good idea to examine the quality of the<br />

piece and how well it sewed. Reassess the hooping, backing, and machine settings. A few adjustments<br />

now can save you from frustrations later on.<br />

Symptom<br />

Thread breaks<br />

Possible Solutions<br />

Slow down AMAYA. Make sure the piece is hooped properly. Adjust<br />

presser foot. Check bobbin tension. Check needle orientation. Oil the<br />

rotary hook.<br />

Bobbin pulled to top Check bobbin tension. Slow down AMAYA. Adjust presser foot.<br />

Registration loss<br />

Fabric is puckering<br />

Check hooping tension. Slow down AMAYA.<br />

Avoid stretching or pulling the fabric too much when hooping it.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 13 Rev: 05/21/10


Color Sequence Settings<br />

Color - Needle: This area displays what needle numbers<br />

the colors in the sequence are sewing. For example, the<br />

first number in the color sequence is sewing on needle #6<br />

Thread Cone Display: This gives you a visual representation<br />

of the thread cones on your machine.<br />

Design Colors: These are the saved design colors in the<br />

order of sewing.<br />

To set up the color sequence to sew:<br />

1. Click on the Color Sequence button<br />

2. Click on the “Clear All” button (this clears the last color<br />

sequence)<br />

3. If the 1st color in your design is red, click on that color<br />

on the thread cone display (6). If the 2nd color in your<br />

design is blue, click on that color in the thread cone<br />

display (9). And so on...<br />

To help setup your thread cone display, you can one of the<br />

following:<br />

1. Left click and drag the color from the Design Colors<br />

and drop on the correct needle on your thread cone<br />

display.<br />

2. Right click on color number on the thread cone display<br />

and choose the thread chart or color for that exact<br />

needle.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 14 Rev: 05/21/10


Color Sequence Settings Cont.<br />

Color Sequencing<br />

Active Colors: Choosing Active Colors from the dropdown<br />

will display each color from the design once. It<br />

may be helpful to think of these colors like the cones of<br />

thread used in sewing your design. Red may be used<br />

several times in a design, but you only require that one<br />

cone of that red to be on the machine. Hovering your<br />

mouse over one of the color blocks will pop up the suggested<br />

thread color for that block. With Active Colors,<br />

needles are assigned to each color block. If that color is<br />

used more than once in the a design, AOS will use the<br />

needle assign to that color block. Color blocks will appear<br />

without numbers until a needle is assigned.<br />

To use the Active Colors feature to automatically set up your sew sequence<br />

1. Click on the “Clear All” button.<br />

2. In the Design Colors drop down area select “Active Colors”.<br />

3. Left click and drag each color to a needle on the thread cone display. (this will assign the color to the<br />

needle). Or, if you want to assign a needle to a color block but do not wish to change the color<br />

properties of that needle, you can right click and drag the active color block onto the desired needle.<br />

4. Click on the “Apply Now” button to automatically assign the color sequence for your design colors.<br />

Auto Match: (Automatically assigns needles)<br />

If your thread cone display is populated with thread colors, it may be faster to use [Auto-Match]. Auto-<br />

Match compares the active colors to the color properties for each of the needles in thread cone display<br />

and assign needles to any color blocks that if finds matches for.<br />

1. If “Exact Match Only” is checked and there not a color match on the thread cone display, it will<br />

leave the design colors blank and not automatically set the color sequence.<br />

• If you click on the “Auto-Match” button, and all colors are found, the color sequence will<br />

automatically be assigned in the color - needle field.<br />

• If there is not an exact match on the thread cone display, only the needles with a match will<br />

display in the active colors of the design.<br />

2. If “Exact Match Only” is not checked and you click on the “Auto Match” button, it will find the closest<br />

RGB color value. It will then automatically assign the colors in the Color - Needle field.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 15 Rev: 05/21/10


Color Sequence Commands (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Appliqué Command (AMAYA OS Lite)<br />

Pause<br />

Hold<br />

Stop<br />

Skip<br />

Sequence for Sewing Appliqué<br />

1. Locator Stitch<br />

Color 1<br />

2. Place Appliqué<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

3. Tack-down Stitch 4. Cover Stitch<br />

Color 2<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 16 Rev: 05/21/10


Color Groups (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Color Groups allow users to use multiple needles<br />

with cones of the same thread color on<br />

an AMAYA. If one breaks a thread, it will<br />

move to the next needle with that color.<br />

To use Color Groups,<br />

1. Go into the Color Sequence tab<br />

2. Click on Color Groups. This will open the<br />

Color Group Setup window<br />

3. Check Enable<br />

4. Check Automatic Start After Needle<br />

Change<br />

(If you want the machine to automatically<br />

start sewing with the backup needle.)<br />

To set up a Color Group,<br />

1. Click on the needle you want as your primary<br />

color. (The primary color will be ringed<br />

in green)<br />

2. Click on the needles you want as back up<br />

colors (The back up colors will be ringed in<br />

red)<br />

Back up colors will be grayed out in the<br />

color selection tab.<br />

To set up another color group, click the Next<br />

Group button.<br />

Clear Selection will delete the selected color<br />

group, and Clear All will delete all color groups.<br />

When the machine has cycled through all of the designated needles for a color, it will stop. You<br />

then need to thread up all the needles of that color and reset the machine by pressing the<br />

Needlecase key and the Hoop key on the AMAYA keypad.<br />

Hoop + Needlecase<br />

+<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 17 Rev: 05/21/10


Settings by Color (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

Settings by Color allows you to set the design<br />

up so that the machine will change<br />

settings when it changes colors.<br />

An example of when you might use this<br />

would be if you want the machine to slow<br />

down to clean up small letters but sew<br />

faster through the rest of the design. Set<br />

the color of the lettering to sew at a slower<br />

speed.<br />

To turn this feature on, check the Settings<br />

by Color box in the Settings by Color tab.<br />

In the design colors box, click on the color<br />

that you would like to change the settings<br />

for. It will now show as the current color.<br />

Make your settings changes and move on<br />

to the next color you’d like to make<br />

changes to, or click Apply and then OK to<br />

exit the window.<br />

Moving Through a Design (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

You may need to move through a design without<br />

sewing to repair an embroidered piece. An<br />

easy way to do this is to use the Move tab located<br />

in “Settings” under the Tools drop-down.<br />

In this tab you can move to a specific stitch or<br />

the beginning of a specific color by entering the<br />

number of the desired stitch or color and clicking<br />

the Move To button to the right of the field.<br />

The X and Y fields will move the design in the hoop.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 18 Rev: 05/21/10


Embroidery File Formats<br />

Wire Frame (Outline) Files<br />

.cnd - older <strong>Melco</strong> condensed format<br />

.ofm - DesignShop and AOS native format<br />

cnd & ofm<br />

• Elements are outlined shapes that contain<br />

element properties like density,<br />

stitch length, and stitch direction.<br />

• Shapes can be edited.<br />

• cnd files saved from DSV9 save as a<br />

manual stitch<br />

ofm only<br />

• Contains lettering properties. You can<br />

change spelling, font, size, or any other<br />

property of the lettering.<br />

• Notes are available.<br />

• Color information is available.<br />

• Machine settings can be saved. (SE & Flex+)<br />

Scaling a Wire Frame File<br />

You can usually scale a wire frame file up<br />

or down in size about 25%.<br />

Stitch Files<br />

.exp - <strong>Melco</strong> expanded stitch file<br />

.dst - Tajima stitch file<br />

Stitch files do not contain properties. They are<br />

just plotted out needle penetrations. The colors<br />

that show up will be the default colors.<br />

If you open an ofm and see expanded data<br />

in the project view, it is plotted stitch information.<br />

You can save stitch files as ofms to keep<br />

notes and color information, but they will still<br />

be expanded data.<br />

Scaling a Stitch File<br />

Stitch files can usually be scaled 10% up or<br />

down in size, but with the assistance of the<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor, you can push<br />

that to about 25%.<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor<br />

Converts stitch files to wireframe in order to<br />

maintain densities when scaled. This may<br />

change the fill patterns in some designs.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 19 Rev: 05/21/10


Maintenance<br />

• The oiler is plugged with wax. You will need<br />

to clear this before you can use it. Pull out<br />

the brass tip, and hold a lighter under the<br />

tip while slightly squeezing it to dislodge the<br />

wax plug. This will obviously squirt out some<br />

oil, so hold it over a trashcan.<br />

• The maintenance timers will pop up automatically<br />

once the timers have counted<br />

down to 0. They will come up at the end<br />

of the run, and not in the middle.<br />

• If you are working with adhesives or a<br />

material that sheds a lot of debris, you<br />

may want to clean the rotary hook. A<br />

good procedure would be to initiate the<br />

rotary hook maintenance, and use a<br />

penetrating oil. Then let the machine<br />

spin off the excess. Blow out the hook<br />

with compressed or canned air. Now<br />

repeat the Rotary hook maintenance<br />

using the supplied machine oil.<br />

NOTE: Penetrating oils do not provide protection.<br />

Use them to clean only. Promptly<br />

apply the supplied oil for proper lubrication.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 20 Rev: 05/21/10


Sewing Caps<br />

1. Load Design or use Load Wizard<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

XT Extended WACF (AOS SE & Flex+)<br />

CCF/WAD (AOS Lite)<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

Start at 850s.p.m. and adjust from there.<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

Set the Lower Limit<br />

6. Orientation<br />

Flip upside-down for caps.<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Cap (Center Hoop won’t work)<br />

Careful - you may not be able to use the<br />

laser to do this. Line up with the needle.<br />

X<br />

Y<br />

Measurements for Caps<br />

X = Distance from bill to start of real curve<br />

Y = Center point for design<br />

X - 1” = safe zone<br />

X - ½” = actual sew field<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

For most caps, take the presser foot all<br />

the way down and go 2 clicks back up.<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

12. GO!<br />

Sew Order for Cap Designs<br />

1. Bottom Up<br />

2. Center Out<br />

3. Finish as you go<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 21 Rev: 05/21/10


More AMAYA OS Settings<br />

Larger Icons<br />

Naming Your AMAYAs (Flex+ Only)<br />

AMAYA OS allows you to change the size<br />

of the buttons on the toolbars and the<br />

icons in the machine list.<br />

To make the change, go to the Tools dropdown.<br />

Select Options, and then go to the<br />

Preferences tab. At the bottom of the tab,<br />

there are check boxes that affect the size.<br />

Check or uncheck the boxes to get the<br />

desired size.<br />

If you’re running multiple machines, you<br />

have the ability to name your AMAYAs and<br />

sequence them in the machine.<br />

1. Click the Configure button at the top of<br />

the machine list.<br />

2. Type a name for the selected machine.<br />

Click the Set button. Continue with all<br />

the machines. Click Next to proceed.<br />

3. Select and Add the machines in the order<br />

you want them to appear in the Machine<br />

List. Click Next when you are finished.<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 22 Rev: 05/21/10


AMAYA Laser Alignment (SE & Flex+ Only)<br />

AMAYA has a laser alignment feature. This feature allows you to line up an embroidery design<br />

to a mark, such as a stripe, on the garment. To do this, you use the hoop and the arrow keys to<br />

move the laser to your first reference point, like the top of stripe on the left side. Press the laser<br />

and an arrow key to confirm this point. Move the laser with the hoop and arrow keys to your<br />

second reference point. Press the laser and an arrow key to confirm this point. Now, press the<br />

laser and the center key. The design will align to the line created by your two reference points.<br />

The placement of the design along the line will depend on the arrow keys used to input the reference<br />

points. The six variations follow.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

3. Laser + Center<br />

+<br />

AMAYA_OS_v10_Handout.pub 23 Rev: 05/21/10


BRAVO & BRAVO OS V11<br />

BRAVO OS V11 Classroom Notes & Quick Reference Guide<br />

w w w . m e l c o u n i v e r s i t y . c o m


Contents of Class<br />

Page 3<br />

4<br />

4<br />

5<br />

8<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

13<br />

14<br />

16<br />

17<br />

18<br />

19<br />

20<br />

20<br />

21<br />

Introductions<br />

Machine Configuration<br />

Bobbins<br />

Thread<br />

Needles<br />

Backing<br />

BRAVO Keypad<br />

Loading Sequence<br />

Adjusting Presser Foot<br />

Hooping<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

Color Sequence Settings<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

Embroidery File Formats<br />

Machine Maintenance<br />

Converting Machine for Caps<br />

Loading Designs for Caps<br />

Cap Hooping<br />

Cap Sewing Basics<br />

Sewouts<br />

Cap Troubleshooting<br />

Moving through a design<br />

BRAVO Laser Alignment<br />

More BRAVO OS Settings<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 2 Rev: 102014


Connecting the BRAVO<br />

Dongles & Levels of BRAVO OS<br />

There are two levels of BRAVO OS. They are<br />

Lite and Flex.<br />

<br />

<br />

Flex is for a 1– 4 head BRAVO configuration<br />

and requires a dongle.<br />

Lite is limited to a single machine configuration<br />

but it requires no dongle to<br />

run.<br />

More information on BRAVO OS Levels is<br />

available in the help system.<br />

Internet Updates<br />

Internet updates are available for both the<br />

OS and the RSA/CSA files. To access these<br />

updates, your computer must be connected<br />

to the internet. This connection should be<br />

made through a separate network card from<br />

the BRAVO. To check for updates, click on<br />

Tools, and then select “Check for Updates…”<br />

or “Check for RSA/CSA Updates…”<br />

Connecting the BRAVO<br />

(1) Ethernet or Crossover cable<br />

Networking multiple machines is an<br />

SE option only<br />

(2) Power<br />

You may want to consider a line<br />

conditioner or uninterruptible power<br />

supply<br />

(3) Serial Number<br />

Located on the side of the machine<br />

(4) On/Off Switch<br />

Daily Start Up Procedure<br />

The proper start up procedure for the BRAVO<br />

is to launch BRAVO OS, wait for the grey<br />

screen to come up, then turn on the BRAVO.<br />

Oil the Hook!<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 3 Rev: 102014


Bobbin<br />

We recommend continuous filament polyester bobbin thread.<br />

Cleaning the bobbin case<br />

Types of bobbins<br />

Threading up the bobbin case<br />

Testing the bobbin tension<br />

Adjusting the bobbin tension<br />

Reinserting the bobbin case<br />

Bobbin tail<br />

Thread<br />

Types of Thread<br />

Threading the BRAVO<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 4 Rev: 102014


Needles<br />

FRONT<br />

SIDE<br />

BACK<br />

Needle Orientation<br />

Thread Guide<br />

Scarf<br />

Needle Sizes<br />

65/9 70/10 75/11 80/12<br />

Smaller<br />

Larger<br />

Sharp<br />

Needle Points<br />

Ball<br />

Standard<br />

Needle Coatings<br />

Titanium<br />

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Choosing a Needle<br />

Choosing the appropriate needle for the job being run is extremely important to the success of<br />

the embroidery. Different fabrics and threads will determine what needle should be used.<br />

General Guidelines<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Ball Point needles are commonly used on knits. The idea behind this is for the slightly rounded<br />

tip of the needle to move the threads of the material out of the way. Common knit garments<br />

include T-shirts and sweatshirts.<br />

Sharp point needles are sharper than ball points and are generally used on tightly woven<br />

goods. Some good examples of tighter weaves would include canvas, denim, and twill.<br />

Titanium coated needles create less friction and heat when moving through a material. They<br />

are a good choice for sewing on coated fabrics or embroidering with adhesive backings.<br />

Smaller needles can clean up the appearance of small lettering and fine details.<br />

Larger needles create larger holes which can help prevent thread breaks due to friction<br />

when sewing an abrasive materials like a cotton duck jacket.<br />

Fabric Type Needle Size Needle Type Coating<br />

Coated Fabrics 80/12 Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Corduroy 80/12 Sharp<br />

Cotton Sheeting 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Denim 80/12 Sharp<br />

Dress Shirt (Woven) 70/10 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Golf Shirt 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Leather 70/10 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp Titanium optional<br />

Lycra or Spandex 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Nylon Windbreaker 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Satin Jacket 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Sweater (knit) 70/10 - 80/12 Ball Point<br />

Terry Cloth 75/11 - 80/12 Ball or Sharp<br />

Delicate Satins or Sheers 65/9 - 70/10 Ball Point<br />

Twill Caps 75/11 - 80/12 Sharp<br />

Note: These values are guidelines only, and you may need to adjust your needle usage according<br />

to the needs of the individual application.<br />

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Changing a Needle<br />

When installing new needles, always use industrial grade needles.<br />

How to Change a Needle<br />

1. Make sure the safety grabber blade is in the back position before changing a needle. If it is not,<br />

press the Adjustment and Center keys on the BRAVO keypad to move the grabber back.<br />

2. Each needle has a needle clamp set screw that holds it in place.<br />

3. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, turn the needle clamp set screw counterclockwise about ½<br />

turn, until the needle can slide down and out of the needle bar. Do not loosen too much or remove<br />

the set screw. Loosen the screw just enough for the needle to be removed.<br />

4. Embroidery needles have a front and a back side. The needle must be installed correctly or<br />

the sewing quality may suffer. If you install the needle incorrectly, you my also get thread<br />

breaks. The front of the needle has a long groove (thread guide), while the back has and<br />

indented notch (scarf).<br />

5. With the thread guide facing forward and the scarf facing back, slide the needle up and<br />

into the needle clamp as far as it will go. The eye of the needle should be turned 5°to the<br />

right. (There is an acceptable range of 0° - 20° to the right)<br />

6. A needle orientation magnet may be used to help determine the angle of the needle eye.<br />

This cylindrical magnet can be temporarily attached to the front of the needle just above<br />

the eye. The end of the magnet will rest on the thread guide and stick out from the needle.<br />

This will better indicate the angle of the eye. For reference, one minute is 6 degrees on a<br />

clock face.<br />

7. Re-tighten the needle clamp set screw to hold the needle in place.<br />

Reasons to Change a Needle<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

The needle breaks or is bent.<br />

The thread will consistently fray - this usually means there is a bur on the needle causing it to<br />

fray a part of the thread.<br />

The needle is dull.<br />

Sewing conditions change, such as a change in fabric.<br />

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Backings and Toppings<br />

Cut Away<br />

Standard Backings<br />

Tear Away<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Water Soluble Toppings and Backings<br />

Other Toppings and Backings<br />

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More Backing and Topping Information<br />

Appropriate backing is essential for embroidering most fabrics. Without backing, fabrics can slip<br />

even when they are hooped tightly. Using the proper backing is directly linked to the production<br />

of consistently high quality embroidery. It is important to understand that many different<br />

embroiderers with identical criteria may choose completely different backing and topping formulas<br />

and still achieve successful embroidery results. Experimentation and experience are essential<br />

in creating consistently high quality embroidery. New products are constantly being developed<br />

and introduced. Find the combinations that work best for you.<br />

Tear Away Backing<br />

Tear away backing is a non-woven material that tears easily in any direction and can be easily<br />

removed after embroidery. Tear away is extremely simple and fast to use, but the uses are limited<br />

because it offers little support to unstable fabrics. Some examples of fabrics suitable for<br />

tear away are cotton sheeting, woven dress shirts, denim, terry cloth, hats, and some satins. Be<br />

aware that tear away can be a bit scratchy, and use on fabrics that will be worn against skin<br />

may want to be avoided.<br />

Cut Away Backing<br />

Cut Away backing is a woven or non-woven material that must be cut form the fabric after the<br />

embroidery is complete. This type of backing is used to support the embroidery on the fabric<br />

during and after the embroidery process. It also prevents the fabric from stretching during embroidery.<br />

Cut Away backings are generally used for unstable goods like knits. Examples of a knit<br />

would be a t-shirt, golf shirt, sweater, or a sweatshirt.<br />

Specialty Backings<br />

Specialty backings such as poly mesh and nylon mesh are also options. While they may not be<br />

as stable as traditional cut aways, they are much less visible through lighter weight garments.<br />

They also tend to be softer than other backings.<br />

Water soluble backing is also available for jobs that require that no backing be left after the completion<br />

of the embroidery. Be aware that this would require a fairly stable garment as the backing will<br />

be dissolved completely and offer no support once the garment has been laundered.<br />

Toppings<br />

Toppings are used to keep your stitches from falling into the nap of a lofty material like terry<br />

cloth or polar fleece. It can also be used to clean up small lettering and the overall appearance<br />

of your embroidery. Most toppings are water-soluble and can be easily removed after<br />

the embroidery is complete.<br />

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BRAVO Keypad<br />

Single Key Operations<br />

Key Combinations<br />

Step Back<br />

Step Forward<br />

Move the hoop on the machine<br />

+<br />

Laser<br />

Open/Close the Grabber<br />

+<br />

Start<br />

Stop<br />

Trace the Design Within Selected Hoop<br />

+<br />

Change Sewing Speed<br />

E-Stop<br />

+<br />

Slider<br />

Check the slider for<br />

more commands.<br />

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Procedure to Run the BRAVO<br />

1. Load Design or Wizard<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

Minimum / Preset<br />

6. Orientation<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

Must have a garment loaded<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Hoop<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

12. GO!<br />

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Setting Presser Foot Height<br />

On the BRAVO, you can manually adjust the presser foot height in the range of 0.5mm to 3.5mm<br />

above the needle plate. The presser foot height should be changed when the thickness of the material<br />

you are sewing changes dramatically. To adjust the presser foot height, BRAVO OS must be<br />

open, and your BRAVO must be on. A hoop with the fabric you will be using should be installed.<br />

1.<br />

WARNING: Do not adjust the presser foot height while the machine is sewing.<br />

Doing so can result in serious injury.<br />

To Adjust the Presser Foot Height<br />

1. Go to the “Tools” drop-down, then<br />

“Maintenance...”<br />

2. In the Maintenance Window, select the Head<br />

Timing tab.<br />

3. If multiple BRAVO machines are assigned to the<br />

same dongle, check the All Machines box to<br />

perform this adjustment for all machines in the<br />

cluster. If this box is not checked, you can select<br />

a single machine from the Machine list.<br />

4. In the Head Timing tab, click the Bottom Center<br />

button. This will place the needle at its lowest<br />

needle depth.<br />

5. Locate the presser foot eccentric (gear/knob)<br />

behind the needlecase. The eccentric is easiest<br />

to access when the needlecase is all the way to<br />

the right (the active needle is on #16).<br />

6. Turn the gear with your fingers to adjust the<br />

presser foot height up or down as needed.<br />

7. Set the presser foot height over a bare (unsewn)<br />

section of the fabric. Set the presser foot so that it is<br />

very close to but not touching the fabric. Leave a<br />

gap between the fabric and the presser foot that is<br />

roughly equal to the thickness of the thread.<br />

8. Click the Head Up button in the Head Timing tab.<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 12 Rev: 102014


Hooping<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Round hoops give the most even tension of all the hoop shapes.<br />

Wooden hoops will have registration marks on them. These help maintain<br />

the shape and hold of the hoop.<br />

Many wooden hoops are double-high, meaning their sides are twice<br />

as tall as normal hoops. They help grip slick or bulky goods because of<br />

the larger surface area and slight tooth the wood provides.<br />

Choose the smallest hoop that the design will fit in without going over<br />

the hoop limitations (the dotted line in BRAVO OS).<br />

Adjust the hoop tension before hooping the final garment. If you adjust<br />

the tension of the hoop while the garment is in it, you will increase<br />

your chances of “hoop burn” and create ripples in the garment.<br />

Sewout Troubleshooting<br />

After you complete your first sew out of a design, it is a good idea to examine the quality of the<br />

piece and how well it sewed. Reassess the hooping, backing, and machine settings. A few adjustments<br />

now can save you from frustrations later on.<br />

Symptom<br />

Thread breaks<br />

Possible Solutions<br />

Slow down the BRAVO. Make sure the piece is hooped properly. Adjust<br />

presser foot. Check bobbin tension. Check needle orientation. Oil the<br />

rotary hook.<br />

Bobbin pulled to top Check bobbin tension. Slow down the BRAVO. Adjust presser foot.<br />

Registration loss<br />

Fabric is puckering<br />

Check hooping tension. Slow down the BRAVO.<br />

Avoid stretching or pulling the fabric too much when hooping it.<br />

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Color Sequence Settings<br />

Color - Needle: This area displays what needle numbers<br />

the colors in the sequence are sewing. For example, the<br />

first number in the color sequence is sewing on needle #6<br />

Thread Cone Display: This gives you a visual representation<br />

of the thread cones on your machine.<br />

Design Colors: These are the saved design colors in the<br />

order of sewing.<br />

To set up the color sequence to sew:<br />

1. Click on the Color Sequence button<br />

2. Click on the “Clear All” button (this clears the last color<br />

sequence)<br />

3. If the 1st color in your design is red, click on that color<br />

on the thread cone display (6). If the 2nd color in your<br />

design is blue, click on that color in the thread cone<br />

display (9). And so on...<br />

To help setup your thread cone display:<br />

1. Left click and drag the color from the Design Colors<br />

and drop on the correct needle on your thread cone<br />

display (it is important this same color be physically on<br />

the machine).<br />

2. The Reset Thread Tree will reset all thread cones back<br />

to the default grey.<br />

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Color Sequence Settings Cont.<br />

Color Sequencing<br />

Active Colors: Choosing Active Colors from the drop-down will<br />

display each color from the design once. It may be helpful to<br />

think of these colors like the cones of thread used in sewing your<br />

design. Red may be used several times in a design, but you only<br />

require that one cone of that red to be on the machine. Hovering<br />

your mouse over one of the color blocks will pop up the suggested<br />

thread color for that block. With Active Colors, needles are<br />

assigned to each color block. If that color is used more than once<br />

in the a design, BRAVO OS will use the needle assign to that color<br />

block. Color blocks will appear without numbers until a needle is<br />

assigned.<br />

To use the Active Colors feature to automatically set up your sew<br />

sequence<br />

1. Click on the “Clear All” button.<br />

2. In the Design Colors drop down area select “Active Colors”.<br />

3. Left click and drag each color to a needle on the thread<br />

cone display. (this will assign the color to the needle). Or, if<br />

you want to assign a needle to a color block but do not wish<br />

to change the color properties of that needle, you can right<br />

click and drag the active color block onto the desired needle.<br />

4. Click on the “Apply Now” button to automatically assign the color sequence for your design colors.<br />

Auto Match: (Automatically assigns needles)<br />

If your thread cone display is populated with thread colors, it may be faster to use [Auto-Match]. Auto-<br />

Match compares the active colors to the color properties for each of the needles in thread cone display<br />

and assign needles to any color blocks that if finds matches for.<br />

1. If “Exact Match Only” is checked and there not a color match on the thread cone display, it will<br />

<br />

leave the design colors blank and not automatically set the color sequence.<br />

If you click on the “Auto-Match” button, and all colors are found, the color sequence will automatically<br />

be assigned in the color - needle field.<br />

If there is not an exact match on the thread cone display, only the needles with a match will<br />

display in the active colors of the design.<br />

2. If “Exact Match Only” is not checked and you click on the “Auto Match” button, it will find the closest<br />

RGB color value. It will then automatically assign the colors in the Color - Needle field.<br />

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Color Sequence Commands<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

Pause<br />

Hold<br />

Stop<br />

Skip<br />

Sequence for Sewing Appliqué<br />

1. Locator Stitch<br />

Color 1<br />

2. Place Appliqué<br />

Appliqué Command<br />

3. Tack-down Stitch 4. Cover Stitch<br />

Color 2<br />

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Embroidery File Formats<br />

Wire Frame (Outline) Files<br />

.cnd - older <strong>Melco</strong> condensed format<br />

.ofm - DesignShop and native format<br />

cnd & ofm<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Elements are outlined shapes that contain<br />

element properties like density,<br />

stitch length, and stitch direction.<br />

Shapes can be edited.<br />

cnd files saved from DSV9 save as a<br />

manual stitch<br />

ofm only<br />

Contains lettering properties. You can<br />

change spelling, font, size, or any other<br />

property of the lettering.<br />

Notes are available.<br />

Color information is available.<br />

Scaling a Wire Frame File<br />

You can usually scale a wire frame file up<br />

or down in size about 25%.<br />

Stitch Files<br />

.exp - <strong>Melco</strong> expanded stitch file<br />

.dst - Tajima stitch file<br />

Stitch files do not contain properties. They are<br />

just plotted out needle penetrations. The colors<br />

that show up will be the default colors.<br />

If you open an ofm and see expanded data<br />

in the project view, it is plotted stitch information.<br />

You can save stitch files as ofms to<br />

keep notes and color information, but they<br />

will still be expanded data.<br />

Scaling a Stitch File<br />

Stitch files can usually be scaled 10% up or<br />

down in size, but with the assistance of the<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor, you can push<br />

that to about 25%.<br />

Expanded Stitch Processor<br />

Converts stitch files to wireframe in order to<br />

maintain densities when scaled. This may<br />

change the fill patterns in some designs.<br />

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The maintenance timers will pop up automatically<br />

once the timers have counted<br />

down to 0. They will come up at the end<br />

of the run, and not in the middle.<br />

If you are working with adhesives or a<br />

material that sheds a lot of debris, you<br />

may want to clean the rotary hook. A<br />

good procedure would be to initiate the<br />

rotary hook maintenance, and use a<br />

penetrating oil. Then let the machine<br />

spin off the excess. Blow out the hook<br />

with compressed or canned air. Now<br />

repeat the Rotary hook maintenance<br />

using the supplied machine oil.<br />

NOTE: Penetrating oils do not provide protection.<br />

Use them to clean only. Promptly<br />

apply the supplied oil for proper lubrication.<br />

Maintenance<br />

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Sewing Caps<br />

1. Load Design or use Load Wizard<br />

2. Color Sequence<br />

3. Select Hoop<br />

(Driver color / Cap Frame)<br />

4. Sewing Speed<br />

Start at 850s.p.m. and adjust from there.<br />

5. Acti-Feed<br />

Set the Lower Limit<br />

6. Orientation<br />

Flip upside-down for caps.<br />

Y<br />

X<br />

7. Center Design (MAYBE)<br />

8. Center Cap (Center Hoop won’t work)<br />

Careful - you may not be able to use the<br />

laser to do this. Line up with the needle.<br />

Measurements for Caps<br />

X = Distance from bill to start of real curve<br />

Y = Center point for design<br />

X - 1” = safe zone<br />

X - ½” = actual sew field<br />

9. Trace Design<br />

10. Adjust Presser Foot<br />

11. Check Pinch Rollers<br />

12. GO!<br />

Sew Order for Cap Designs<br />

1. Bottom Up<br />

2. Center Out<br />

3. Finish as you go<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 19 Rev: 102014


Moving Through a Design<br />

BRAVO Laser Alignment<br />

BRAVO has a laser alignment feature. This feature allows you to line up an embroidery design to<br />

a mark, such as a stripe, on the garment. To do this, you use the hoop and the arrow keys to<br />

move the laser to your first reference point, like the top of stripe on the left side. Press the laser<br />

and an arrow key to confirm this point. Move the laser with the hoop and arrow keys to your<br />

second reference point. Press the laser and an arrow key to confirm this point. Now, press the<br />

laser and the center key. The design will align to the line created by your two reference points.<br />

The placement of the design along the line will depend on the arrow keys used to input the reference<br />

points. The six variations follow.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

1. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Right<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

2. Laser + Left<br />

+<br />

+<br />

+<br />

+<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 20 Rev: 102014


More BRAVO OS Settings<br />

Naming Your BRAVOs (Flex only)<br />

If you’re running multiple machines, you<br />

have the ability to name your BRAVOs and<br />

sequence them in the machine.<br />

1. Click Tools, then “Set Machine Name<br />

And S/N”.<br />

2. Type a name for the selected machine.<br />

Click the Set button. Continue with all<br />

the machines. Click Next to proceed.<br />

BRAVO_OS_v11_BRAVO_Handout.pub 21 Rev: 102014

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