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ADOBE PHOTOSHOP Lightroom Magazine › ›<br />

One general guideline to avoid star blur is known as “the<br />

500 rule.” Simply divide 500 by the focal length of your lens,<br />

and that equals the longest exposure, in seconds, you can use<br />

before the stars start to trail in your shot. For example, using<br />

a 20mm lens on a full-frame camera, divide 500 by 20, giving<br />

you 25 seconds, the longest time you can expose before the<br />

stars appear to move.<br />

If you plan to capture star trails through a long exposure,<br />

a lower ISO gives you much less noise, and the light absorbed<br />

by the lengthy time exposure can capture the detail needed.<br />

Wide-angle lenses work best to cover larger portions of the<br />

sky, but any lens can be used; just recognize that the longer<br />

the lens, the more opportunity for camera shake, as well as<br />

a smaller aperture that’s tougher to see through, requiring<br />

careful focus and a higher ISO setting. Faster lenses, ones<br />

with larger maximum apertures, are also a benefit since the<br />

wider openings make it easier to see through the viewfinder,<br />

allow more light to hit your sensor, and give you the option<br />

to use lower ISOs for less noise.<br />

To balance artificial light with ambient starlight, the artificial<br />

light you provide, or that’s provided through another<br />

source, must match closely to the extremely dim ambient<br />

light level of the stars. Go outside that limited range and your<br />

exposure is lost due to the difference between an extremely<br />

bright artificial light and low-level starlight combined, hence<br />

an unrealistic final scene or a ton of post work to recover<br />

the image. Waiting for the campfire to lower to a flicker was<br />

the key to this image, while artificial light from a headlamp<br />

was used to add a touch of detail to the glacial erratic sitting<br />

below a star-filled sky. The RAW file was exposed at f/4 for<br />

15 seconds using ISO 1600 with an 18mm lens.<br />

Step Three<br />

› › photoshop user › february <strong>2016</strong><br />

Step Four: Once you have a solid RAW<br />

file to work with, various postprocessing<br />

techniques in Lightroom CC can<br />

help you stretch the capabilities of<br />

your image sensor, pulling out extra<br />

detail while correcting other imperfections.<br />

Using presets to fix night scenes<br />

may not be the best option, as every<br />

situation and exposure requires specific<br />

recovery and adjustments. Take<br />

this Yosemite image of a tent below<br />

the Milky Way. The balance of the tent<br />

glow and the nighttime sky are a bit<br />

high in contrast, but not enough to<br />

lose detail in either area. Initial adjustments<br />

are done in the Lens Correc-<br />

Step Four<br />

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