National_Geographic_Traveller_UK_June_2017

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Costa Rica guide 

JUNE 2017 // £3.95 // UK EDITION // NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK 

17 NATURAL WONDERS 

Beauty 

AMERICAN 

BMonument Valley, 

Yellowstone, Yosemite 

+ more 

Bulb 

Boom 

TO 

TULIP TALES 

FROM HOLLAND 

Red earth, 

risotto & ruins in 

PUGLIA 

Meet nosey turtles 

& ancient lizards in the 

CAYMAN ISLANDS 

Intelligent, gentle, vulnerable 

FACE TO FACE WITH UGANDA'S MOUNTAIN GORILLAS 

ALSO: SYDNEY // AARHUS // DUBAI // ADDIS ABABA // VIENNA // PORTUGAL // RICHMOND // VOLUNTEERING

SOUL LUXURY 

Merano · Südtirol · Italy · Tel. 0039 0473 244 071 · www.fragsburg.com

June 

2017 

Contents 

FEATURES 

92 Italy 

The spiky heel of Italy’s boot, 

the Puglia region is a land in a 

sumptuous time warp 

74 Cover story: USA 

When it comes to wondrous 

landscapes, the USA really 

does have it all 

116 Cayman Islands 

Get beyond the beach bars 

— there’s a wilder experience 

waiting for you 

138 City life: Addis 

Ababa 

Ethiopia’s capital is a surprise 

package with a curious past 

104 Uganda 

Intelligent, gentle, vulnerable. 

No one who looks into a gorilla’s 

eyes can remain unchanged 

128 In pictures: 

Netherlands 

It’s bloomin’ lovely during the 

colourful flower season 

146 City life: Aarhus 

This laid-back city with 

cultural clout is stepping out 

of Copenhagen’s shadow 

Issue 56 

Antelope Canyon, Utah 

IMAGE: Getty 

June 2017 5

June 


Contents 

52 61 156 

SMART TRAVELLER 

17 Snapshot 

A local in her boldy-decorated São Paulo pad 

19 Editors’ picks 

These are a few of our favourite things 

20 Big picture 

Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island 

22 What’s new 

Summer of Love and the Titanic, revisited 

27 Science & tech 

New attractions for your inner nerd 

28 Do it now 

Test your kayaking skills on wild rivers 

31 Food 

A taste of wild Jersey with Shaun Rankin 

33 On the trail 

Sri Lanka’s bountiful tea heartlands 

34 Rooms 

Enjoy the midnight sun in Norway’s Tromsø 

39 Stay at home 

Harrogate, the pearl of North Yorkshire 

41 The word 

The Photo Ark by Joel Sartore 

44 Travel Geeks: Rush Hour 

Our monthly meet-up of experts and editors 

47 Author series 

Chibundu Onuzo on Lagos 

48 View from the USA 

Aaron Millar on New York’s hip hop history 

50 Online 

Weekly highlights from natgeotraveller.co.uk 

INSIDER 

52 Weekender: Richmond 

West London’s polished, riverfont utopia 

56 Eat: Portugal 

Alentejo is the soul of the nation’s cuisine 

61 Neighbourhood: Sydney 

Pick a neigbourhood and dive in 

TRAVEL GEEKS 

156 Travel Geeks 

The experts’ travel manual 

166 Conservation 

The Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve 

170 Volunteering 

The questions volunteers should be asking 

GET IN TOUCH 

184 Subscriptions 

Free tickets, great offers and discounts 

185 Inbox 

Your letters, emails and tweets 

186 Your pictures 

This month’s best ‘Spain’-themed photos 

DON'T MISS 

12 Festival 

Meet the super-cool polar explorers helping 

us bring the magazine to life this September 

36 Family 

Kids become carb-happy masterchefs 

Competition 

66 Sleep: Vienna 

Right royal experiences without the price tag 

win a trip to Sicily’s baroque south east for two, p.43 

151 Reader offers 

10% off trips to Dubai 

6 natgeotraveller.co.uk

LITTLE CAYMAN 

CAYMAN BRAC 

You never know when you will 

bump into one of the locals. 

GRAND CAYMAN 

3 of life’s 

little luxuries 

caymanislands.co.uk

Contributors 

National Geographic Traveller (UK) 

APL Media 

Zane Henry 

As a native South African with five years of 

London life under my belt, I find it thrilling 

that there are still places like Richmond 

to discover. This borough felt like another 

city, with a distinct atmosphere and a pace 

of life all its own. RICHMOND P.54 

Aaron Millar 

The US political climate may be raising 

eyebrows, but living here I’m constantly 

reminded how spectacular it is too. The big 

sites — like the Grand Canyon — are rightly 

famous, but just as jaw-dropping are the 

lesser-known natural wonders. USA P.76 

Julia Buckley 

Puglia’s trulli have given the region an almost 

cutesy reputation, but it’s a wild land of 

prehistoric dolmens, untamed landscapes 

and a mix of cultures, thanks to centuries of 

conquest and migration. This trip, I see what 

makes the region tick. PULGIA P.94 

Emma Gregg 

An encounter with mountain gorillas in their 

steep, tangled habitat can be fascinating, 

charming or hair-raising, depending on what 

they’re up to. For me, it was all three. Gorilla 

tracking is hard to beat; with your heart 

pounding, you feel wildly alive. UGANDA P.106 

Zoe McIntyre 

Mention a visit to the Cayman Islands and 

there’s usually a quip about stashing cash or 

sailing on superyachts. I did neither. Instead, I 

hiked ancient trails, saw dragon-like reptiles, 

swam among tropical fish and swigged rum on 

icing-sugar shores. CAYMAN ISLANDS P.118 

Editorial Director: Maria Pieri 

Editor: Pat Riddell 

Deputy Editor: Glen Mutel 

Senior Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro 

Associate Editor: Sarah Barrell 

Assistant Editor: Amelia Duggan 

National Geographic Traveller 

Photography Magazine, Editor: 

Tamsin Wressell 

Digital Editor: Seamus McDermott 

Online Editor: Josephine Price 

Head of Subs: Hannah Doherty 

Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben 

Murray, Charlotte Wigram-Evans 

Project Manager: Natalie Jackson 

Art Director: Chris Hudson 

Art Editor: Lauren Atkinson-Smith 

Designer: Daniel Almeroth 

Production Manager: 

Daniel Gregory 

Special Projects Consultant: 

Matthew Midworth 

National Geographic Traveller 

Business Development Team: 

William Allen, Bob Jalaf, Adam Fox, 

Glyn Morgan, Adam Phillips, Mark 

Salmon, John Stergides, Jon Stone 

Head of National Geographic 

Traveller — The Collection: 

Danny Pegg 

Contributing Editors: 

Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry, 

Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova 

Editorial Assistant: 

Connor McGovern 

Sub Editor: Lorraine Griffiths 

Designers: Gabriella Finney, 

Lauren Gamp, Danielle Humphrey, 

Philip Lay 

Production Controllers: 

Maia Abrahams, Joaquim Pereira, 

Lisa Poston, Joanne Roberts, 

Anthony Wright 

Sales and Marketing Manager: 

Rebecca Fraser 

APL Business Development Team: 

Neil Bhullar, Chris Dalton, 

Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus 

Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens 

Managing Director: 

Matthew Jackson 

Sales Director: Alex Vignali 

Sales Administrator: 

Elizabeth Scott 

Executive Assistant: 

Taylah Brooke 

Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw 

Credit Manager: Craig Chappell 

Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover 

Accounts Assistant: Jana Abraham 

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, 

Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL. 

natgeotraveller.co.uk 

Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk 

Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk 

Subscriptions T: 01293 312166. natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk 

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from 

National Geographic Partners, LLC. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2017 

and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is 

taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility 

in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting 

on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National 

Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or 

claims made by advertisers. 

National Geographic Traveler (US) 

Editor-in-Chief, Travel Media: 

George W. Stone 

Publisher & Vice President, Global 

Media: Kimberly Connaghan 

Digital Director: Andrea Leitch 

Design Director: Marianne Seregi 

Director of Photography: 

Anne Farrar 

Editorial Projects Director: 

Andrew Nelson 

Senior Editor: Jayne Wise 

Features Editor: Amy Alipio 

Associate Editor: Hannah Sheinberg 

Editor/Producer: Christine Blau 

Producers: Mary McGrory, 

Lindsay Smith 

Associate Producer: Caity Garvey 

Editor, Adventure: Mary Anne Potts 

Deputy Art Director: 

Leigh V. Borghesani 

Senior Photo Producer: Sarah Polger 

Associate Photo Producers: 

Jeff Heimsath, Jess Mandia 

Associate Photo Editor: 

Laura Emmons 

Chief Researcher: Marilyn Terrell 

Production Director: Kathie Gartrell 

Executive Assistant: Alexandra E. Petri 

Editorial Assistant: Gulnaz Khan 

Copy Editors: Preeti Aroon, 

Liane DiStefano, Emily Shenk Flory, 

Nancy Gupton, Cindy Leitner, 

Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan, 

Ann Marie Pelish, Brett Weisband 

Communications Vice President: 

Heather Wyatt 

Communications Director: 

Meg Calnan 

Senior Vice President, 

International Media: Yulia P. Boyle 

Director, International Magazine 

Publishing: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr 

National Geographic Society 

President & CEO: Gary E. Knell 

Board of Trustees Chairman: 

Jean N. Case 

Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft 

National Geographic Partners 

CEO: Declan Moore 

Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg 

Chief Financial Officer: 

Marcela Martin 

Chief Communications Officer: 

Laura Nichols 

Chief Marketing Officer: Jill Cress 

Chief Technology Officer: 

Jonathan Young 

Consumer Products & Experiences: 

Rosa Zeegers 

Digital Product: Rachel Webber 

Global Networks CEO: 

Courteney Monroe 

Legal & Business Affairs: 

Jeff Schneider 

Board of Directors Chairman: 

Gary E. Knell 

Copyright © 2017 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. 

National Geographic Traveler: Registered Trademark. Printed in the UK. 


©2017 Visit San Antonio

HIGHLIGHTS 

@patriddell 

@patriddell 

Editor’s 

letter 

Forget the myth that only 10% of Americans have 

passports — it’s actually more than 40% — and 

perhaps ignore the fact that they receive a rather 

stingy 16 days’ paid leave on average (including public 

holidays), there’s a better reason that our friends across 

the Pond don’t leave their shores very often. 

It’s because they’ve got everything: beaches, volcanoes, 

forests, fields, deserts, snow-capped mountains, 

wilderness, rainforests, bewildering rock formations and 

some of the best cities in the world. You couldn’t see 

everything the US has to offer in a lifetime if you tried 

— well, not on 16 days’ holiday a year at least. 

The country’s National Park Service, which celebrated 

its 100th anniversary last year, oversees the remote, 

rugged, fragile and spectacular landscapes of a nation 

that’s known for doing things on a grand scale. And to 

demonstrate we’ve selected 17 of its most magnificent, 

most incredible natural attractions. 

There are many you may not have heard of but plenty 

you have to see — from the splendour of Monument 

Valley and Arizona’s Barringer Meteor Crater to 

Louisiana’s Atchafalaya Swamp and Colorado’s towering 

sand formations in Great Sand Dunes National Park. 

And with a plethora of new, increasingly affordable 

routes across the Atlantic there’s really no excuse. 

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR 

Costa Rica guide 

From coast to coast, Costa Rica squeezes in an 

abundance of natural beauty. Your bucket list 

guide is free with this issue 

· 2017 · 

Our very own festival 

We bring National Geographic Traveller (UK) to 

life at this inaugural festival on 17 September. 

Don’t miss out — find out how to book, p.12 

Travel Geeks 

Fancy after-work drinks and expert-led travel 

discussions? This month’s London gathering 

focuses on Food & Drink, p.44 

Competition: Sicily 

We’ve teamed up with Prestige Holidays to 

offer the chance to win a five-night trip for 

two Sicily’s baroque south east, p.43 

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER 

British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Society of Magazine Editors Awards 2016: Editor of the Year, Lifestyle (Shortlisted) 

• Ecoventura LATA Media Awards 2016: Online Blog Feature of the Year • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Annual Canada 

Travel Awards 2015: Best Canada Media Coverage • Germany Travel Writers’ Awards 2015: First Prize • British Travel Awards 2014: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine 

• British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2013: Best Overseas Feature • British Travel Press Awards 2012: Young Travel Writer of the Year 

SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK ON FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ TUMBLR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM 


South Tyrol seeks nature lovers. 

South Tyrol seeks you. 

See Italy from a different angle in South Tyrol. It’s a summer 

paradise hidden in the Dolomite Alps where you can get a rush 

from hiking and biking, or relax in one of the many mountain 

spas. Once you’ve reached your peak for the day, start a new 

journey of discovery with the unique food and drink that fuses 

Italian flair with Alpine sophistication. 

www.suedtirol.info/summer


SUNDAY 17 

SEPTEMBER 2017 

THE BREWERY, 

LONDON EC1 

Join us as we bring 

National Geographic 

Traveller (UK) 

to life! 

TRAVEL WRITING MASTERCLASSES • TRAVEL GEEKS PANELS • BUSHCRAFT SKILLS 

MARTIAL ARTS CLASSES • COOKING DEMOS • INTERNATIONAL FOOD 

12 natgeotraveller.co.uk 

TICKETS: £150 

NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/FESTIVAL 

FOR MORE ON OUR GROWING LINEUP, FOLLOW 

@NATGEOTRAVELUK #NGTUKFESTIVAL

IMAGES: GETTY 

JULIA 

BRADBURY 

BBC and ITV presenter 

PAUL 

ROSE 

Arctic explorer and TV presenter 

GEORGE BULLARD 

Record-breaking explorer and athlete 

ALAN HINKES 

OBE and extreme mountaineer 

JAMES 

CRACKNELL 

OBE, global adventurer and Olympian 

DANIEL 

RAVEN-ELLISON 

Guerilla geographer and creative explorer 

JIM MCNEILL 

Polar explorer and presenter 

MARTIN HARTLEY 

Adventure travel photographer 

MICHELIN-STARRED & CELEBRITY CHEFS 

PLUS National Geographic Traveller (UK) 

editors, writers, designers and photographers 

FROM THE EDITOR 

We’re bringing explorers, 

storytellers, experts and 

photographers from all corners 

of the world together for an 

astounding celebration of travel 

— National Geographic Traveller 

(UK) style. Join us as we project 

the ethos, energy and ideas of 

the magazine onto the big stage. 

On our main stage, we’ll be 

talking to Paul Rose, Julia 

Bradbury and James Cracknell 

about the journeys and 

challenges that have shaped 

their careers. 

Exploring is the name of 

the game at the festival: our 

venue — a cavernous 18thcentury 

former brewery 

— will be a warren of out-there 

activities, inspirational talks 

and expert-led writing and 

photography masterclasses, 

which we know you love. The 

only challenge will be choosing 

where to start! 

See you there. 

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR, 

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 

TRAVELLER (UK) 

PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASSES WITH NIKON • WINE-TASTING 

BABBEL LANGUAGE SESSIONS • WELLNESS WORKSHOPS 

HEADLINE SPONSOR 

SPONSORS 

and more! 


FESTIVAL 

CURATED BY THE 

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER TEAM 

MEET THE ADVENTURERS 

We’ll be talking to four extraordinary men who’ve made 

exploring icecaps, frosty tundras and 8,000m death zones 

their bread and butter 

THE EXPLORER 

Paul Rose is at the front line of exploration. 

One of the world’s most experienced science 

expedition leaders, National Geographic 

Explorer and BBC’s Inside Out presenter 

Paul Rose knows the challenges and the 

beauty of the polar regions like no one else. 

Paul has led groups on Greenland ice cap 

crossings, ski-mountaineering trips and 

intrepid first ascents of icy mountains. He 

even has a peak named after him 

in Antarctica. 

TRAVEL WRITING MASTERCLASSES • TRAVEL GEEKS PANELS • BUSHCRAFT SKILLS 

MARTIAL ARTS CLASSES • COOKING DEMOS • INTERNATIONAL FOOD 

TICKETS: £150 

NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/FESTIVAL 

FOR MORE ON OUR GROWING LINEUP, FOLLOW 

@NATGEOTRAVELUK #NGTUKFESTIVAL 


FESTIVAL 

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO 

THE MOUNTAINEER 

Alan Hinkes is a recordbreaker. 

He’s said to be the 

first Briton to have scaled 

all 14 of the world’s highest 

mountains peaks: those 

over 8,000m (26,240ft). These 

summits are in the ‘death zone’ 

— altitudes at which human 

survival rate is measured 

in hours. Alan is part of an 

exclusive club: fewer than 40 

people have climbed the world's 

highest peaks without the help 

of additional oxygen. 

THE WARRIOR 

Jim McNeill is one of the 

world’s most experienced and 

respected explorers. In 2001, 

he founded the Ice Warrior 

Project, which aims to emulate 

the heroic era of exploration by 

taking complete novices and 

turning them into competent 

and accomplished modern-day 

explorers. His next flagship 

expedition is to the Northern 

Pole of Inaccessibility, situated 

around 280 miles from the 

geographic North Pole. 

THE 

PHOTOGRAPHER 

Martin Hartley has built 

an extraordinary archive of 

polar imagery, undertaking 

20 photographic assignments 

in Northern Siberia and the 

Canadian Arctic, and three 

in Antarctica. He’s the only 

professional photographer 

to have crossed the Arctic 

Ocean on skis and with dogs, 

and is passionate about 

helping to protect the Arctic 

Ocean sea ice. 


TRAVEL WRITING 

MASTERCLASSES 

with the editors of National Geographic Traveller 

Ever wondered what it takes to make it 

as a travel writer? The editors behind 

the award-winning National Geographic 

Traveller will be joined by some of 

the country’s finest freelance travel 

journalists to take an in-depth look at the 

art of storytelling; share writing tips; and 

discuss what it takes to get published. 

Beginnings & endings • Print vs digital 

Long-form or short-form • Structure 

How to pitch • Writing dos and don’ts 

What makes a good story 

Know your audience 

Finding your voice 

PAT RIDDELL 

Editor 

Mee he editors 

GLEN MUTEL 

Deputy 

Editor 

SARAH BARRELL 

Associate 

Editor 

MARIA PIERI 

Editorial 

Director 

PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASSES WITH NIKON • WINE-TASTING 

BABBEL LANGUAGE SESSIONS • WELLNESS WORKSHOPS 

HEADLINE SPONSOR 

SPONSORS 

and more! 


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What’s new // Do it now // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Stay at home // The word 

SNAPSHOT 

Isabella Giobbi, São Paulo 

Isabella lives just a few blocks from me in the 

chic neighbourhood of São Paulo, Brazil — but 

that’s not how I know her. We met when I was 

photographing a lifestyle story for Casa Vogue 

Brazil in her boldly decorated apartment. We 

spent most of the shoot in her kitchen, talking 

about her writing, her background in fashion, 

her love of Italy and her passion for cooking. 

Unusually, it was an overcast day in São Paulo 

and the room was full of soft, natural light. 

ANDRE KLOTZ // PHOTOGRAPHER 

andreklotz.com 

@andreklotz 


“The Wanda” used to be a typical old school guesthouse, then 

turned into a real “feel good place”. Ideal for couples, who can 

really appreciate such small escapes. You can discover this 

place for yourself and theoretically come back year after year 

and turn it into your second home. 

#DASWANDA 

Tel: +39 0471 66 90 11 info@das-wanda.com 

daswanda das_wanda 

www.das-wanda.com 

2 HOUSES, 2 CONCEPTS, 1 CREDO 

All six of our family are part of the company, each with their own personality and strengths. 

We may not always agree, but we always have a common goal: to have happy people around us. 

A design awarded more generation-house. Only at a second 

glance it becomes apparent that the old building is still 

there: renovated and expanded, the traditional hotel has a 

new silhouette. Wood frames give the home a modern feel. 

Architecture, design and wine style – in combination with old 

fashioned hospitality. 

#DASPANORAMA 

Tel: +39 0471 96 32 05 info@designhotel-panorama.com 

designhotelpanorama das_panorama 

www.designhotel-panorama.com


IN NUMBERS 

CASA VICENS 


Antoni Gaudí’s creation is set to 

open as a museum this autumn 

1885 

The year it was 

originally completed 

2005 

Declared a UNESCO World 

Human Heritage Site 

£22m 

Rumoured purchase 

price in 2014 

casavicens.org 

PAT RIDDELL 

Editos' icks 

TAKE THE TRAIN 

Ride Norway’s mountainscaling 

Flåm Railway from the 

comfort of your armchair in a 

45-minute movie captured by a 

3D camera attached to the front 

of the train. visitnorway.com 

SARAH BARRELL 

Favourite 

childhood 

holiday 

We’ve been here and we’ve been there, and our team 

have found a few things we thought we’d share 

Culture vulture 

Bringing a dash of modernity 

to Liverpool’s waterfront, 

architectural centre RIBA 

North opens on 17 June. The 

exhibition space will also 

house the City Gallery — a 

space to learn about the 

city’s architecturally diverse 

past and its urban future. 

architecture.com 

CONNOR MCGOVERN 

Sailing from New York to Block Island, a 

slice of sleepy New England paradise in the 

Atlantic Ocean STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO 

Isle of Wight. We went nine times in eight 

years. We must have loved it GLEN MUTEL 

Sanibel, Florida, where the beaches were 

littered with pinkish conches after a 

tropical storm AMELIA DUGGAN 

A Tunisian holiday resort, where a local girl 

took me to her family home: a heady culture 

shock for a young teen SARAH BARRELL 

Kakopetria in the heart of the Troodos 

Mountains, Cyprus, where the pistachio ice 

cream was amazing MARIA PIERI 

IMAGES: GETTY 

Coup d’état 

Park your political paralysis at Ravi 

DeRossi’s latest pop-up cocktail den, 

Coup, which opened in Manhattan’s 

East Village on 14 April. The mantra 

is decidedly anti-Trump: open for the 

duration of his presidency, it’s decked 

out with protest signs and profits are 

donated to organisations — like the 

Environmental Protection Agency 

— believed to be ‘at risk’ under the 

current administration. coupnyc.com 

STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO 

PENGUINOLOGIST 

Brush up on your 

knowledge of the 

feathered flightless 

birds with Quark’s 

guest lecturer, Dr Tom 

Hart, on a trip to 

the Antarctic. 

TRAVEL WITH 

The 'ologists' 

VOLCANOLOGIST 

Take the one-hour hike 

up Sciara del Fuoco with 

Freedom Treks and a 

volcano expert to watch 

the firework-like lava 

explosions on Stromboli 

island in Italy. 

MARINE BIOLOGIST 

Learn about aquatic 

organisms with Monty 

Halls on a Spitsbergen 

cruise in July 2018 as 

part of Steppes Travel’s 

expert-led tours. 

MARIA PIERI 





BIG PICTURE 

Baffin Island, Canada 

Straddling the Arctic Circle, Canada’s remote Nunavut 

territory is one that few travellers reach. “The Auyuittuq 

National Park on Baffin Island is a complete wilderness. The 

only refuge I found on my two-week trek was this ice cave 

at the foot of the Turner Glacier,” says Andrew Robertson, 

who took this photo in September last year. The image was 

commended in the 2017 Sony World Photography Awards. 

A touring exhibition of winning and shortlisted images sets 

off from London’s Somerset House this month. 

worldphoto.org 

IMAGE: ANDREW ROBERTSON, UNITED KINGDOM, COMMENDED, 

OPEN, NATURE, 2017 SONY WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS 


SMART TRAVELLER // WHAT’S NEW 

THE 

SUMMER 

OF 

It’s 50 years since San Francisco’s 

Summer of Love and the city is 

celebrating the Swinging Sixties 

with events throughout June 

COME TOGETHER 

Embrace your inner flower child 

and relive the summer of ’67 with 

Haight-Ashbury’s annual Street 

Fair on 11 June. The area was the 

epicentre of the famous summerlong 

celebration of love and rock 

’n’ roll. haightashburystreetfair.org 

FLOWER POWER 

Follow in the footsteps of 

Janice Joplin and the Grateful 

Dead on a Flower Power 

Walking Tour, threetimes 

weekly year-round. 

haightashburytour.com 

MONTEREY, BABY 

The Monterey Pop Festival 

launched the music icons that 

would define a generation: Jimi 

Hendrix, The Who, Janis Joplin. 

On the same stage 50 years 

later, a host of funky acts will 

pay tribute to the festival and 

its legacy (16-18 June). 

montereyinternational 

popfestival.com 

PSYCHEDELIC SCIENCE 

Feeling groovy? On 1 June, 

learn about the mind-bending 

chemistry of psychedelics and 

the science behind love with an 

evening of talks, music, cocktails 

and crafts at the California 

Academy of Sciences, 

set in the historic 

Golden Gate Park. 

calacademy.org/nightlife 

SNAP HAPPY 

Photographs taken 

during the legendary 

‘67 festival are on display 

at the Monterey 

Museum of Art until 

September this year. 

montereyart.org 

TAKE IT TO THE STREETS 

Over 100 Madonnari artists 

will transform the pavements 

of downtown San Rafael into a 

trippy patchwork of ’60s-themed 

murals for the Italian Street 

Painting Marin, 24-25 June. 

italianstreetpaintingmarin.org 

AMELIA DUGGAN 

summeroflove2017.com 

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY 


SYDNEY to SINGAPORE 

CRUISE VOYAGE 

QUEEN VICTORIA • 23 FEBRUARY 2019 • 33 NIGHTS 

Your Barrhead Travel package includes: 

• Return flights from UK 

• 3 nights 5 pre-cruise Sydney stay 

• 24 nights on board Queen Victoria sailing from Sydney visiting: 

Brisbane • Whitsunday Island • Darwin • Bali • Ho Chi Minh City 

Nha Trang • Hong Kong (overnight) • Chan May (for tours of 

Hue or Da Nang) • Singapore 

• Up to $720 on board spending money per stateroom† 

• 3 nights 5 post-cruise Singapore stay 

• FREE Blue Mountain & Wildlife Park tour 

• FREE Footsteps of Raffles tour with afternoon tea 

• Private transfers throughout 

BALCONY STATEROOM FROM £7159 PP 

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HIGHLIGHTS ON BOARD QUEEN VICTORIA 

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Tea service by day, 

elegant balls and cocktail 

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Escape into an enthralling 

novel, with over 6000 

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Enjoy world-class shows 

in this stunning theatre 

at sea 

Offers blissful massages, 

therapies & exhilarating 

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OPEN 7 DAYS TILL 11PM* 

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varies by stateroom type and cruise duration and is additional to Cunard Fare benefits. $720 based on highest stateroom grade. Valid on selected departures. Applicable to new Cunard Fare bookings only and applies to the first two guests sharing a stateroom.^Image advertised is based on Queens Grill Suite. *11pm closing applies to selected stores only, please check 

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WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER 

RETURN 

OF THE 

IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK; GETTY 

Titanic 

Next year, intrepid explorers will 

have the chance to climb inside 

a submersible and visit the 

world’s most famous shipwreck 

Under the sea 

Fewer than 200 people have visited the luxury 

liner ‘God himself could not sink’ since it 

descended to its watery grave off the coast of 

Newfoundland in 1912. But that’s set to change 

— London-based travel company Blue Marble 

Private is offering nine ‘mission specialists’ the 

chance to join an expedition to the shipwreck. 

Explorers with deep pockets will need to shell 

out $105,129 (£84,680) — the equivalent price of 

a first-class ticket on the Titanic, after inflation 

— for the eight-day, deep-ocean mission in 

May 2018, with further dives scheduled for 

2019. Each 90-minute descent, in a titanium 

and carbon fibre submersible, will take 

passengers through a world of bioluminescent 

sea creatures, before the craft glides over 

the ship’s deck, bow and grand staircase. 

bluemarbleprivate.com 

Above the surface 

Rather not swim with the fishes? Sleep above 

them instead in a life-size replica of the Titanic. 

Due to open in 2018, the bizarre attraction 

and floating hotel will be permanently docked 

in China’s Qijiang River. It will feature a 

simulation of the iceberg crash, and the 

chance to tuck into the same menu as the 

diners on the vessel’s ill-fated maiden voyage. 

STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO 

ALL ABOARD 

Experience the sinking of 

the Titanic before exploring 

the wreck with Titanic VR, a 

virtual reality game created 

by David Whelan — due for 

release at the end of 

this year 

IN NUMBERS 

2,225 

people boarded 

the Titanic 

705 

survived the 

disaster 

1985 

the year Robert Ballard 

discovered the wreck 

370 

miles off the coast 

of Newfoundland 

2.5 

miles beneath 

the sea 

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 

Take the plunge 

From weapon of war to vessel for life, a Second World War 

ship — suspected to be one of five remaining from the Pearl 

Harbor attack — nearly sent to scrap has been reclaimed as an 

underwater art installation, dive site and marine life habitat. 

Funded in part by Sir Richard Branson, the BVI Art Reef 

project sees the Kodiak Queen topped with a rebar-and-mesh 

kraken (sea creature) whose 80ft tentacles wrap around the 

boat. Suit up and dive off the coast of Virgin Gorda to see the 

tentacles come alive with marine life. divethebviartreef.com 


JOIN THE CLUB! 

Freedom. It’s a great feeling! Daios Cove is inviting Villa 

guests to be part of a brand new concept, that offers a 

range of unique benefits designed to give you more time 

and convenience 

• Free choice of dishes across all à la carte menus 

• Selected drinks and signature cocktails from all our bars 

• Ice-cream, soft drinks and healthy juices for all children 

• Plus many more premium benefits 

For more information call us on 020 3807 1418 or email 

info@daioscove.com or www.daioscovecrete.com 

Complimentary for all Villa guests for stays in April, May, October and November

WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER 

Geek 

WEIRD SCIENCE 

out 

Put on your spectacles and let your 

inner nerd run wild at these new 

scientific attractions. Going geek 

has never been so cool 

THE MOONLIGHT SWIM 

WHAT: Swim five feet beneath the ‘moon’. 

WHERE: At a lido in Rennes, Brittany, during 

the packed-with-surprises Tombées de la Nuit 

(Nightfall) arts festival in July. 

HOW: Book tickets for Museum of the Moon, 

a touring event by British artist Luke Jeram, 

who created the 1:500,000-scale lunar model. 

It measures 23ft in diameter and features NASA 

imagery of the satellite’s surface. my-moon.org 

IMAGES: ALAMY; MUSEUM OF THE MOON; SCIENCE MUSEUM 

Cocktails in code 

Are you a player, keen to show off your mad Sherlock 

skills? Well, there’s a secret underground bar with your 

name (in code) on the door. The latest immersive cocktail 

experience comes from Lollipop, the team behind East 

London’s Breaking Bad cocktail bar and The Bunyadi 

naked restaurant. Here, The Bletchley recreates a secret 

World War II code cracking room. Slip in through a 

secret door and, once you’ve entered data detailing your 

personal taste preferences into a cipher machine, 

you receive a unique code that you then transmit, 

via radio, to a team of backroom mixologists, who 

will decode the perfect bespoke cocktail for you. 

You don’t need to be Alan Turing to tackle this 

mission, but if you like a bit of retro dress-up, this 

can’t be beat. And for those late to the party (you 

need to book well ahead), this London 

pop-up’s shelf life has been extended at 

least until July, and there’s even firm talk 

of it being recreated on foreign soil. 

Where? Clue: you won’t need D-Day 

Landings to reach this capital city. 

thebletchley.co.uk SARAH BARRELL 

TOP THREE 

Scientific trips 

THE RESTAURANT 

Is this the best class, 

ever? Cocktail lessons 

given by Todd Maul, 

the geek-barman at 

Café ArtScience in 

Cambridge, 

Massachusetts, now 

include the food 

design innovations of 

partner organisation, 

Le Laboratoire. It all 

adds up to some 

highly unusual drinks. 

lelaboratoirecambridge.com 

THE MUSEUM 

If you want to see how 

Major Tim Peake 

returned to Earth after 

his six-month mission at 

the International Space 

Station last year, then 

head to London’s Science 

Museum, where the 

Soyuz TMA-19M descent 

module — complete with 

scorch marks from its 

re-entry through the 

atmosphere — is on 

display until September. 

sciencemuseum.org.uk 

THE HOTEL 

The about-to-open 

Hotel EMC2, in 

Chicago, headlines a 

huge zoetrope, a 

19th-century 

animation device, plus 

a typographic quote 

by Leonardo da Vinci 

in the lobby. And that’s 

before you enter the 

rooms… Beds feature 

Serta cooling 

technology mattresses 

as standard. 

hotelemc2.com 


SMART TRAVELLER // DO IT NOW 

Paddle 

PUSHERS 

Kayaking isn’t just for athletes — it’s a way to 

test your skills on wild rivers and get close to 

animals that would otherwise prove elusive 

For eco-conscious travellers who want to get up close to nature, 

a canoe or kayak is a no-brainer. With 70% of the earth’s surface 

covered in water, there are countless watery habitats walking boots 

just won’t get you to. These paddle safaris are picking up fans, and 

specialist wildlife tour operators are offering a ‘raft’ of new itineraries. 

This year, Black Tomato introduced a new kayaking tour of 

the Congo, while Intrepid Travel features kayaking in Costa Rica 

to get up close to monkeys and sloths. Discover the World and 

Wildlife Worldwide have kayaking trips in Vancouver Island to spot 

humpback whales and orca, plus grizzly bears catching wild salmon. 

There are plenty of alternatives for adrenalin seekers, too, with 

Water by Nature offering trips down the Zambezi River rapids. Snap 

this one up — with dams planned, the waters won’t run wild forever. 

SAM LEWIS 

TOP THREE 

Perfect places to paddle 

CANADA 

Algonquin Provincial Park, just a few hours’ 

drive from Toronto and Ottawa, offers new selfguided 

day trips from C$55 (£33), while those 

who head to Ottawa River can brush up their 

skills with Owl Rafting owner, Claudia Kerckhoff- 

Van Wijk, 10-times Canadian kayak champion. 

algonquinoutfitters.com owlrafting.com 

SCANDINAVIA 

Best explored by canoe, Finland’s 40th national 

park, Hossa, opened in June. Sweden’s St. 

Anna archipelago, which comprises around 

6,000 islands, is ideal for a self-guided 

kayaking and wild camping adventure. 

muchbetteradventures.com 

UK 

The Three Lakes Challenge involves paddling 

the lengths of the longest lakes in Wales (Bala 

Lake), England (Windermere) and Scotland (Lock 

Awe) — a total of 43 miles. Try it at a leisurely 

pace or race it in 24 hours. gocanoeing.org.uk 

186 

RECORD BREAKER 

The height (in feet) of 

Palouse Falls, where 

Tyler Bradt broke 

the world record for 

the biggest vertical 

77 

descent in a kayak 

The speed (in mph) 

Bradt paddled over 

the waterfall 

LEARN THE LINGO 

‘Wet exit’ 

When you’re forced to 

swim out of your kayak 

‘Strainer’ 

A point where a tree 

or branch traps a 

kayak but lets water 

run through 

‘Portage’ 

The act of carrying your 

kayak on dry land to 

reach water 

IMAGES: GETTY; SUPERSTOCK 


“Wonderful day on the water” 

“Experience of a lifetime!” 

“Amazing whale watching” 

Whale watching – West Iceland – Snæfellsnes National Park 

Daily tours from 10th November till 15th September 

+354 546 6808 

booking@lakitours.com 

info@lakitours.com 

www.lakitours.com 

Facebook & Instagram: Láki Tours

FOOD // SMART TRAVELLER 

Wild 

A TASTE OF 

Jersey 

Jersey’s best-known chef, Shaun 

Rankin, forages for his favourite 

seasonal grub on his second home 

SHAUN RANKIN 

Michelin-starred Rankin’s 

most recent restaurant ventures 

include Ormer Jersey, Ormer 

Mayfair, 12 Hay Hill and Don 

Street Deli. His first recipe 

book is Shaun Rankin’s 

Seasoned Islands. 

shaunrankin.com 

Beach eats 

Foraging is part of the Island’s heritage, and 

a movement I’ve been at the forefront of for 

over eight years. Head to the five-mile bay 

on the western side of St Ouen to find salty 

finger — a sea vegetable that’s great cooked. 

It goes really well with turbot. Grouville Bay 

is also great to rake for cockles, salt out razor 

clams and sea beats along the dunes. 

Inland excursions 

Head for St Martin’s Woods, where you get the 

first of the wild garlic in spring. It’s great in 

soups, pesto and my favourite — wild garlic 

risotto (recipe below). Trinity, in the centre of 

the island, is covered in lush countryside with 

spring beauty (miner’s lettuce), which has a 

fantastic flavour and texture; it goes well in 

lamb with goat’s curd and minted peas. 

TRY IT AT HOME 

Broad bean, wild garlic 

& parmesan risotto 

IMAGES: GETTY 

TIPS FOR FIRST-TIME FORAGERS 

RESEARCH: A plant expert can help identify 

the subtle differences between plant species 

PRACTICE: Train your eyes to recognise 

commonly found wild fare like dandelion, 

purslane, chickweed, clover, lambsquarter 

and mustard 

APPLY: Rather than salt and pepper, try using 

seaweed and sea purslane to nutritiously 

season dishes 

INGREDIENTS 

750ml vegetable stock 

1 tbsp olive oil 

1 onion, peeled and diced 

Herbs (sprig of thyme; a bay leaf) 

2 crushed garlic cloves 

350g risotto rice 

100ml white wine 

75g unsalted butter 

150g broad beans, cooked 

4 wild garlic leaves, chopped 

60g grated parmesan 

Sea salt and cracked black pepper 

METHOD 

Heat the vegetable stock, and keep 

warm. In a saucepan, add olive oil, onion, 

thyme, garlic and bay leaf, and cook until 

the onion is translucent. Add the rice 

until it starts to crack. Add white wine 

followed by a ladleful of stock. Ensure 

the rice has absorbed the stock before 

adding more. Continue until the rice 

is cooked. Remove pan from the heat 

and beat the butter into the rice. Add 

the broad beans and wild garlic leaves. 

Sprinkle grated parmesan, and season. 


ON THE TRAIL // SMART TRAVELLER 

Tea 

HIKING, 

trails 

BIKING 

& KAYAKING 

Explore Sri Lanka’s bountiful heartlands, 

awash with verdant tea terraces and colonial 

bungalows. Words: Josephine Price 

DILMAH TEA 

The award-winning Dilmah tea is 

‘picked, perfected and packed’ in 

spots around Sri Lanka — including on these tea trails. Dilmah’s 

founder, Merrill J. Fernando, was one of the first Sri Lankan tea 

tasters to be trained at Mincing Lane, London’s tea mecca. 

4 

5 

ILLUSTRATION: TILLY RUNNINGFORCRAYONS.CO.UK 

SUMMERVILLE 

BUNGALOW 

Settle into 

Summerville 

for afternoon 

tea and scenes 

reminiscent of 

a W. Somerset 

Maugham novel. 

Brews are paired 

with Dundee cake 

and scones. 

CASTLEREAGH 

BUNGALOW 

Hop in a kayak 

to traverse the 

flat waters of the 

Castlereagh reservoir 

on your way towards 

this shoreside 

bolthole. Enjoy 

views of the rolling 

tea-clad hills and 

Adam’s Peak beyond. 

BOGAWANTALAWA 

VALLEY 

Cycle into the 

Bogawantalawa 

Valley, following 

a trail used by 

planters of old 

Ceylon. Pass tea 

pluckers and 

make a pit stop 

at the Dunkeld 

Tea Factory. 

4 

NORWOOD 

BUNGALOW 

Hike into the next 

valley, passing 

Norwood Bungalow 

along the way. Have 

a cuppa in the spot 

where planters 

traditionally invited 

friends to relax and 

soak up plantation 

views and fresh air. 

5 

TIENTSIN 

BUNGALOW 

Wind down 

with a game of 

croquet at 4,600ft 

in the gardens 

of Tientsin 

Bungalow, named 

after the Chinese 

village from 

which the first tea 

seedlings hailed. 

resplendentceylon. 

com/teatrails 


SMART TRAVELLER // ROOMS 

Tromsø 

WHERE 

TO STAY 

Where better to watch the 

midnight sun than from one of 

these uniquely designed northern 

Norwegian pads, set within the 

Arctic Circle 

3 

2 

1 

4 

1 MARIBELL SJØBUER 

Just 45 minutes from the city, in a 

world of wild coastline, are three 

two-bedroom cottages. They’re 

cantilevered over the water in 

the tiny hamlet of Kvaløyvågen. 

Scandi-simple but comfy, the 

cottages are ideal for whale 

watching. From £150 per night. 

maribell.no 

2 BED & BOOKS 

An alternative to Tromsø’s chain 

hotels, Bed & Books is spread 

across two houses (the ‘Writer’s 

Home’ and ‘Fisherman’s Home’), 

on the waterfront. It features retro 

furniture, shared kitchens and 

a library instead of a reception. 

Doubles from £89 per night. 

bedandbooks.no 

3 TROMVIK LODGE 

This 10-bedroom villa was 

supposedly Prince Harry’s pick 

for his recent trip to Norway. 

From glass walls facing the sea 

to the bathroom sauna and hot 

tub outside, it’s certainly fit for 

royalty. From £300 per night 

(two-night minimum). 

tromviklodge.com 

4 FJØSEN 

Set back from the waterfront 

at Ersfjordbotn, this barn has 

been converted into two rustic 

apartments, both sleeping six 

and with views over the fjord. 

The outdoor hot tub and garden 

area are great for soaking up the 

midnight sun. From £206 per night. 

fjosen.no JULIA BUCKLEY 


SMART TRAVELLER // FAMILY 

La bea 

ITALIAN COOKING 

cucina 

Pasta, gelato, pizza and wonderful wild garlic — what’s not to like 

about Italian food? This summer, kids can try their hand at becoming a 

carb-happy masterchef — before tucking into their well-earned feast 

It’s pretty. Green stems splayed; clusters of 

white star-shaped dangling flowers that could 

be mistaken for snowdrops. My daughter 

screws up her nose: “It’s a bit… whiffy.” It’s 

certainly a scent you might not associate with 

flowers. “Wild garlic: it’s only in season for 

two months, so use it in whatever you can,” 

says Yvette Farrell, chef and Forest of Dean 

foodie champion. 

She’s putting us through our 

paces at the Harts Barn Cookery 

School, in the Forest of Dean, 

on a site dating back to 1068, 

still with a working cider mill 

and press. We’re here to 

make pasta, using wild 

garlic. “It can be added to 

practically any dish,” says Yvette. We combine 

the ‘00 flour’ (the only kind for pasta-making), 

add an egg and a little water, then knead, 

pound and roll the dough. Garlic is added 

to one dough only; then both are chilled, 

before being run through the 

pasta machine. Cook for three 

minutes, add olive oil and the 

result is a moreish dish the 

children can’t get enough of. 

For a grand day out, try 

your hand at cooking, visit 

the picnic area and small 

lake and sip a cuppa at the 

award-winning tearoom. 

hartsbarncookeryschool. 

co.uk MARIA PIERI 

TRY IT AT HOME 

TRY IT AWAY 

WAITROSE INSPIRATION 

The supermarket chain offers workshops for 

kids aged five and over in Salisbury and London 

in everything from pasta bakes to tomato, 

mozzarella and basil calzone. waitrose.com 

LA CUCINA CALDESI 

At this husband-and-wife-run school in central 

London, kids aged six and over can join the 

Italian Mama’s Cookery Club classes. caldesi.com 

PIZZA IN NAPLES 

Make thin-crust pizza in its birthplace at one of 

the oldest joints in Naples, run by master chefs. 

foodtoursofnaples.com 

GELATO IN ROME 

“Money can’t buy happiness but it can buy 

gelato and that’s kind of the same thing.” Hard 

to argue with the logic of this gelato-making 

tour for kids in the heart of Rome. iatravel.com 

IMAGE: GETTY 


» 

RESERVE NOW FOR THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME 

CALL: 866-904-1160 | BOOK ONLINE: WESTERNRIVER.COM

UK // SMART TRAVELLER 

Harogate 

The pearl of North Yorkshire, Harrogate 

is the handsome spa town that’s kept its 

sheen — and the ideal base for exploring 

the surrounding Yorkshire Dales 

STAY AT HOME 

DON’T MISS 

Situated in the nearby 

Nidderdale Area of Outsanding 

Natural Beauty, Brimham Rocks 

are otherworldly balancing 

rock formations up to 30ft high. 

Arranged in unstable-looking 

piles, they really must be seen to 

be believed — particularly Idol 

Rock, a huge 200-ton monster, 

balanced implausibly on a 

miniscule rocky pyramid. 

WE LIKE 

While Harrogate’s history as a 

spa town is neatly showcased 

in the Royal Pump Room 

Museum, the restored Turkish 

Baths & Health Spa is perhaps 

more fun. Spend some time in 

its three heated chambers and 

recover in the relaxation room. 

turkishbathsharrogate.co.uk 

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; BETTYS CAFÉ TEA ROOMS; MAJESTIC HOTEL 

WHERE TO EAT // BETTYS CAFÉ TEA ROOMS OFFERS A 

DIZZYING ARRAY OF BREADS, CAKES AND CHOCOLATES. 

HEAD RIGHT FOR THE TAKEAWAY BAKERY, OR LEFT TO THE 

CAFÉ TEA ROOMS FOR THE AFTERNOON TEA. BETTYS.CO.UK 

WHAT TO DO 

Harrogate’s an ideal 

base for a trek into the 

Yorkshire Dales — an 

area full of satisfying 

routes. Think deep 

valleys rich with sheep, 

cows and even lamas; 

dry stonewalls; windy 

rivers and ancient 

bridges. The walk 

from Brimham Rocks 

to the pretty village 

of Pateley Bridge is 

especially stunning. 

WHERE TO STAY 

Nothing could be 

more in keeping with 

Harrogate’s reputation 

than a restored 

Victorian hotel in 

sweeping grounds. Step 

forward the Majestic 

Hotel, complete with a 

pool, spa and restaurant, 

plus helpful staff and 

rooms with great views. 

majestichotelharrogate. 

co.uk 

GLEN MUTEL 


RESTIVAL — RECONNECT TO LIFE 

THE LOVE CHILD OF A RETREAT AND FESTIVAL LOCATED IN A 

SECRET SPACE AMIDST THE BEAUTY OF THE PAINTED DESERT 

Restival fuses the best of festivals and retreats with the creation of a beautifully curated, 

intimate wellness travel experience with the Navajo people. Restival is visionary and 

totally unique — a five-night transformational retreat in the Arizona Desert, offering 

the rare opportunity to reconnect with yourself, let your hair down, become a tribe 

and truly connect with nature in eco-lux comfort, by collaborating with the clan of 

the Navajo people. Restival includes a special tour of the local area, accompanied by 

a Navajo elder, to places rarely accessed by non-Native people. 

Limited tickets on sale now for this September, Arizona Desert, visit www.restivalgobal.com for further 

details. Prices start from £1,500 for a five night experiential travel adventure which includes nutritious 

food, accommodation and workshops. 

www.restivalglobal.com

ord 

The 

FACE 

VALUE 

This collection of classic photo portraits of the world’s 

animals are disarmingly sensitive and revealing, 

serving as a clarion call to save our endangered species 

Portrait photography is a specialist field, 

often finding focus on the famous, infamous 

and enigmatically anonymous. It’s a field 

that rarely turns its attentions to 

animals. But this is exactly what 

photographer, speaker and longtime 

contributor to National 

Geographic, Joel Sartore, has 

been doing for much of his 

professional life: taking portraits 

of the world’s animals, especially 

those that are endangered. The 

resulting body of work — which 

has been documented in the 

magazine’s pages and featured 

in an on-going online campaign 

— is now collected in a glossy 

photography book: a bright, bold 

message for us to get to know our 

planet’s animals, and to save them. 

The beautiful beginnings of what’s 

been dubbed the Photo Ark, 6,000 animal 

portraits have been taken so far: a lifelong 

project for Sartore, who intends to take a 

portrait of every animal in captivity in the 

world. His ultimate aim is to create studio 

The Photo Ark 

by Joel Sartore, is 

published by National 

Geographic. 

RRP: $35 (£28) 

portraits of 12,000 species while travelling 

the globe, visiting zoos and wildlife rescue 

centres. His emphasis is on animals facing 

extinction, with standout 

images including a gorgeously 

coy-looking Florida panther 

named Lucy at Tampa’s Lowry 

Park Zoo, and an endearingly 

orderly row of critically 

endangered ploughshare 

tortoises, confiscated by a zoo 

in Atlanta after being stolen; 

cute: yes, but also full of 

wild character. 

In keeping with classic 

portraiture, the images are 

disarmingly distinct from 

most wildlife photographers, 

with each animal posed 

against either a white or black background, 

accompanied by sobering words from 

veteran wildlife writer Douglas Chadwick, 

and a splashy intro from Harrison Ford. 

Sensitive, revealing, and at times utterly 

mesmerising, this may be portraiture at its 

most powerful. SARAH BARRELL 

BOOKS // SMART TRAVELLER 

Wise 

TOP THREE 

words 

THE DIARY 

The Raqqa Diaries, written 

under a pseudonym by 

a freedom fighter and 

translated by Nader Ibrahim, 

is an incredibly unflinching 

eyewitness account of the 

brutal reality of life inside 

Syria under the ‘Islamic State’. 

RRP: £9.99 (Hutchinson) 

THE EVENT 

The Royal Geographical 

Society holds its annual 

summer garden party at its 

London HQ (23 June) followed 

by Planet Earth II Revealed 

(5 July), at which the hit BBC 

series’ producers reveal 

fascinating behind the scenes 

stories. rgs.org 

THE PODCAST 

As the Trump administration 

looks to find $1bn (£0.8bn) 

to fortify a 62-mile stretch 

of the 2,000-mile Mexico/ 

US border, tune in to BBC 

Seriously’s recent La Frontera 

episode, assessing the history 

of the borderlands. bbc.co.uk/ 

programmes/b088f2w1 

THE GREAT OUTDOORS 

IMAGE: GETTY 

WILD GUIDE, 

SCOTLAND 

750 places for 

outdoor adventures, 

from lost ruins to tiny 

glens. RRP: £16.99 

(Wild Publishing) 

WILD PUB WALKS 

Hill walks in the Peaks, 

Lakes and Highlands, 

with a pub chosen 

by the Campaign For 

Real Ale. RRP: £11.99 

(CAMRA Books) 

CAMPING BY THE 

WATERSIDE 

Campsites in the UK 

and Ireland; ideal for 

swimmers, kayakers, 

anglers and kids. RRP: 

£14.99 (Bloomsbury) 

THE WILD OTHER 

An accident shatters an 

idyllic childhood, and a 

peripatetic life ensues 

in this memoir by Clover 

Stroud. RRP: £20.00 

(Hodder & Stoughton) 


Renew your Harmony with Nature 

We ensure that your sea kayak trip is safe and enjoyable and that it becomes a 

cherished lifetime memory. The breathtaking beauty of the islands, inlets, abundant 

wildlife, and sounds of this area offer you an unparalleled wilderness experience. 

DISCOVERY EXPEDITIONS, 221 Ferntree Place, Nanaimo, BC, V9T 5M1 | 1-250-619-2714 

www.orcaseakayaking.com

Win 

AN 

AMAZING 

FIVE-NIGHT 

BREAK TO 

SICILY 

SPECIAL PROMOTION 

National Geographic Traveller (UK) 

has teamed up with Prestige Holidays 

to offer a fantastic holiday for two 

to Sicily’s baroque south east 

Authentic Sicily 

Off the main tourist track, Sicily’s baroque 

south east is full of picturesque towns, 

captivating countryside, golden beaches 

and, of course, fantastic food and wine. 

You’ll find an authentic slice of Sicily among 

the friendly locals, sprawling piazzas, 

churches and trattorias of Modica, Scicli, 

Ragusa and Ispica. 

THE PRIZE 

Five nights for two with 

return flights to Comiso or Catania 

from London, five days’ car hire, B&B 

stay at Relais Torre Marabino plus the 

chance to try a tasting menu with wine. 

Courtesy of Prestige Holidays, who 

have been tailor-making holidays 

for 27 years. 01425 480400 

prestigeholidays.co.uk 

Bed down 

Relais Torre Marabino is nestled in the 

southeastern corner of Sicily, near Ispica — a 

quiet countryside location just 10 minutes 

from the beach. Formerly a Saracen tower, 

it’s now an agriturismo (farm stay) with seven 

comfortable and stylish rooms, gardens and 

terraces plus an outdoor pool. A wide selection 

of organic wines and food is available. 

TO ENTER 

Answer the following question by visiting 

natgeotraveller.co.uk/competitions 

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Competition closes 30 June 2017 at 23.59 GMT. The 

winner must be aged 18 or over and the trip is subject to 

availability. Full T&Cs available at natgeotraveller.co.uk 


SMART TRAVELLER // EVENTS 

E ents 

2 0 1 7 

06 

JUNE 

Food 

TRAVEL GEEKS: 

& drink 

TIME: 

18.30–19.30 

WHERE: Intrepid UK, 

1st Floor, Piano House, 9 

Brighton Terrace, Brixton, 

London SW9 8DJ 

Perhaps you’ve been spoilt for choice for beers in Belgium, got lost in the 

TICKETS: £10 (plus 

nibbles and a drink) 

spices of a Moroccan bazaar, or hunted high and low for the best pizza in 

Naples. Whatever your palate, food and drink feature heavily in our travelling 

tales, and in this event, in partnership with Intrepid Travel, we get to grips 

with all things gastronomic. Whether it’s the best places to taste Thai or how 

to navigate the world’s wineries, our expert panel is on hand to give you plenty 

of tips for your next adventure. All you have to do is come with a curious mind, 

your burning questions, and any ideas you’d like to discuss. In addition to 

usual nibbles and drinks, there will also be a special tasting experience. 

JO FLETCHER- 

CROSS 

Contributing 

editor to National 

Geographic 

Traveller (UK), Jo 

will bring a touch of 

order to the night’s 

proceedings 

THE PANEL 

DANIEL NEILSON 

National 

Geographic 

Traveller (UK) 

contributor Daniel is 

working on a book 

about the cuisine 

of the northern 

Atlantic islands. 

FLORIAN 

ROTTENSTEINER 

Florian is Intrepid 

Travel’s business 

development 

manager; he just 

got back from a 

food adventure 

in Japan 

VICTORIA STEWART 

Former Evening 

Standard food 

editor, Victoria 

writes about food 

and travel for The 

Telegraph and The 

Times, as well as on 

her blog 

NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/EVENTS 

11 JULY 2017 

TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR 

Walking and Trekking 

Sponsored by Intrepid 

Looking to get fully immersed in 

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for plenty of inspiration on how to 

discover the world on foot, from 

the best walks for beginners to 

challenging Alpine adventures. 

With tips and tales throughout the 

evening, leave the boots at home for 

now — just come with any ideas and 

questions for the panel. 

WHERE: Intrepid UK, 1st Floor, Piano 

House, 9 Brighton Terrace, Brixton, 

London SW9 8DJ 

TIME: 18.30–19.30 

PRICE: £10 (plus nibbles and 

a drink) 


17 SEPTEMBER 2017 

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 

TRAVELLER FESTIVAL 

Sponsored by Babbel 

This autumn, our award-winning 

magazine comes to life at our 

inaugural festival, packed with 

masterclasses, language lessons with 

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WHERE: The Brewery, 52 Chiswell 

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TIME: 09.30–17.30 

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NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // CHIBUNDU ONUZO 

LAGOS 

How do you capture the spirit of a city home to some 20 million people? 

It’s best done through one personal perspective at a time 

ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY 

I 

was born in Lagos, I grew up there and 

even after I moved to England at 14, most 

years I returned to the city. Yet, I didn’t feel 

qualified to write a novel called, Welcome to 

Lagos. In its earlier incarnations, the book was 

called something else, a duller title my sister 

said, when she’d suggested the idea. 

I ran it past my brother, who lives in Lagos. 

Too overarching, he said. The type of title an 

American production company would come 

up with. Well yes, I took his point. A white 

man passes through six African countries 

with a camera, and feels entitled to call his 

documentary: ‘Africa: the definitive story’. 

I envied that confidence. I wanted it. So 

I changed the title and then the novel grew 

to fill it. I began to see Lagos afresh, like a 

Johnny Just Come setting foot in the city for 

the first time. 

There was the privileged entry. Arriving in 

Lagos from London by air, as I’ve often done, 

with my foreignness and relative affluence 

wafting from my person. If you arrive in 

Lagos this way, most likely, all you see is 

dysfunction. The air-conditioning doesn’t 

work. The baggage carousel is too small. For 

crying out loud, no toilet paper in the loos. 

You step out of the airport and a sea of 

touts accost you, selling you stuff, clutching 

at your bags, for all you know trying to rob, 

kidnap and kill you at the same time. You 

escape into the city and then wonder why 

you ever left the airport. The drivers are 

mad. You’ll die before you reach your hotel. 

Beggars come up to your car, maimed, 

blind, armless, legless. There are beggars 

in London, New York and Paris of course, 

but they are not so beggary. They hide their 

poverty better. They are easier to ignore. 

The airport is not like JFK. The roads are 

not like Zurich. All you see in Lagos is a place 

that’s not like somewhere else: a negation, 

a failure to reach international standards, 

whatever they are. Then there’s the entry 

into Lagos by road: more egalitarian, the way 

thousands flock to the city each year. 

After spending a week in my village in 

Eastern Nigeria, I tried to imagine having 

lived in this village all my life. You have a 

mobile phone, but you also must travel by 

bicycle — and not because you want to save 

the planet. There are no street lights. You 

You step out of the airport 

and a sea of touts accost you, 

selling you stuff, clutching at 

your bags, for all you know 

trying to rob, kidnap and kill 

you at the same time. You 

escape into the city and then 

wonder why you ever left the 

airport. The drivers are mad. 

know what a television is but you don’t own 

one yourself. 

Driving into Lagos with this state of 

mind, the pace is outstanding. You’ve seen 

a car. You’ve never seen this many. There 

are rows and rows of street lights — the city 

never sleeps. There are flyovers, bridges, 

skyscrapers, radio towers, helicopters, mass 

transit buses with television screens and free 

wi-fi. You’ve never seen such a concentration 

of infrastructure. On closer inspection, if you 

don’t have money and the right education and 

the right contacts, it’ll be very difficult to work 

in those skyscrapers or fly in that helicopter or 

drive that Range Rover. Poverty in Lagos can 

perhaps be even more abject and desperate 

than poverty in your village, but on first 

glance the city dazzles. 

And then, although I didn’t want to turn the 

novel into a Lonely Planet guidebook, the new 

title made me think about what was iconic 

about Lagos. There was the atmosphere of the 

city, the pulse and the energy, but there were 

also specific places I wanted to mention now 

the novel was becoming a homage. It was fun 

to write about Mr Biggs, the only restaurant 

chain that my meagre childhood funds could 

afford. A character had to visit Makoko, the 

lagoon city with houses on stilts that the 

government alternatingly attempts to destroy 

— for not fitting in with its modern image of 

Lagos — and preserve because pesky foreign 

journalists keep flocking there. 

After the book was done and had gone off 

to the printers, I told a friend of mine the title 

and he exclaimed, “You’re in trouble! You’ll 

have to put everybody’s version of Lagos in 

that novel.” 

Of course I haven’t. There are over 20 

million people living in Lagos. This is 

Welcome to Lagos according to Chibundu 

Onuzo: my version of the city on as broad 

a canvas as possible. The subject is as 

inexhaustible as London, or Tokyo, or Cairo or 

any of the other mega-cities of the world. Now 

I’ve attempted it, I’m looking forward to the 

next writer who will tackle a novel on Lagos. I 

wish them luck. 

Welcome to Lagos by Chibundu Onuzo is published by 

Faber & Faber. RRP: £12.99 

@ChibunduOnuzo 



VIEW FROM THE USA // AARON MILLAR 

HIP HOP, YA DON’T STOP 

If today’s toothless hip hop could rediscover its bite, the soundtrack of 

New York could one day become the unifying sound of a nation 

Every city has a sound. You can walk the 

streets and visit the sights, but until 

you listen you’ll be seeing the world in 

black and white. Music is colour; music is 

spirit; it’s the shape of a place’s dreams. New 

Orleans is jazz, Nashville is country, but New 

York will forever be hip hop. 

In many ways, it’s the soundtrack of 

modern America too. Hip hop was born 

from the civil rights movement. It was about 

social justice. In the 1960s, Martin Luther 

King echoed the ‘We shall overcome’ song 

the protestors were singing in his famous 

speech; in the ’80s, NWA rapped “fuck 

tha police”. Then rappers railed against 

the N-bomb; later the word was worn as a 

badge of pride. If hip hop is now all about 

doing the stanky leg and partying like it’s 

your birthday, that’s because it’s become 

mainstream. It’s the Fortune 500. It’s pop 

tunes with swear words and gold chains. 

Now, as Black Lives Matter campaigners 

protest police brutality, and when an average 

of 44 people are murdered in the US every 

single day — most from the inner cities 

— hip hop raps about sex and money instead 

of hope and change. I decided to go back to 

its source, but I wasn’t going back alone. 

Grandmaster Caz, one of the pioneers 

of the genre in the 1970s and ’80s, is to hip 

hop what James Bond is to the dry Martini: 

he helped make it cool. I meet him in 

Manhattan, baggy jeans and a beanie, name 

embroidered in golden thread on his chest, 

his blacked-out van bumping Empire State of 

Mind by the side of the road. We’re heading 

into the Bronx, to the edge of the interstate 

and a red-brick high-rise that hosted a 1973 

house party credited with the birth of the 

scene. But first we need context. 

It’s a whirlwind tour: in Harlem, we see the 

Graffiti Hall of Fame, the venue where Kool 

Moe D rapped against Busy Bee (the most 

famous freestyle battle in hip hop history) 

and the legendary Rucker Park basketball 

court — hemmed in by tenement housing 

on all sides — where NBA greats test their 

mettle against the best of the street. 

In the Bronx, I learn the sign for the 

borough — arms crossed like an X in front 

of your chest. We stop at Disco Fever, where 

Grandmaster Flash, the godfather of hip 

hop, built his legend; and 1520 Sedgwick 

Avenue, where one out-of-control party 

changed the world’s musical taste forever. 

The names of New York greats ring out like 

Marvel super-villains: The Furious Five, the 

Treacherous Three, the Funky 4+1. Then, to 

cap it off, we meet breakdancing whizz B-Boy 

Mighty Mouse, watch him spin on his head, 

learn about the air flare (the hardest move 

in breaking history, the dancing equivalent 

of being blasted by an anti-gravity gun), and 

are cajoled into joining an impromptu street 

performance. There’s perhaps nothing more 

cringe-inducing than watching a middleclass 

white man trying to breakdance. 

Especially if it’s you. 

But it’s the unspoken things that matter 

most. Leave the tourist bubble behind and 

the city changes instantly. “This is the real 

New York,” Caz says. As we head north, 

shiny skyscrapers and Broadway shows 

become high-rise projects and barbed-wire 

playgrounds. We see Malcolm X’s mosque, 

opposite the ruins of one of hip hop’s golden 

gig venues: Harlem World; the Hotel Theresa, 

where Martin Luther King planned his 

march on Washington, round the corner 

from the Apollo Theater, where Lauryn Hill 

and other legends have played. “Hip hop rose 

from necessity,” Caz tells us. “Our soul comes 

from that struggle.” People come to New York 

to stand on top of the Empire State Building 

and watch chorus girls kick at Rockefeller. 

But if that’s all they do, they miss the real 

spirit of the city. They miss its sound. 

And America is missing it too. Music is the 

seed of revolution. One in every six people 

in the US is living in poverty — in the inner 

cities, that number is closer to one in three. 

Compared with white men, black men in 

America are 21 times more likely to be shot 

and five times more likely to end up in prison. 

Every city has a sound, but so does a country, 

and right now the US is deciding what its 

will be. We need a soundtrack to inspire that 

choice. Come on hip hop, come on New York, 

America needs you. hushtours.com 

British travel writer Aaron Millar ran away from London 

in 2013 and has been hiding out in the Rocky 

Mountains of Boulder, Colorado ever since. 

@AaronMWriter 

ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY 


The 

Blog 

TO 

TURKEY 

THE MOON 

AND BACK 

A hot air balloon gives an elevated perspective 

on the central Turkish region’s lunar landscapes 

Eventually, another jet 

of super-heated 

air arbitrarily boosts 

us heavenward, and 

I grip wicker more 

tightly than Yogi Bear 

on a ‘pic-a-nic’ pilfer 

Sunrise; sunset. Sunrise; sunset. Time is 

a matter of perspective. Mere seconds, 

not days, are passing. 

It’s a frosty 6am and the sun is peeping 

over the mountainous horizon. Just as its 

warming rays bloom against the skyline, our 

aircraft sinks below the edge of its launch pad 

— a sliver of canyon precipice — and the sun 

disappears behind the peaks again. This is 

the first time I’ve ever descended at take-off. 

This is also the first time the pilot has 

freely admitted to me that he has no idea 

where we’re going and that a gentle crash 

landing is a distinct possibility. We’re 

literally going where the wind takes us. 

This is my maiden hot air balloon flight. 

I’ve never before had the desire to be 

suspended far above the ground in a glorified 

picnic basket beneath two giant blowtorches, 

but it’s practically compulsory in Cappadocia. 

Even on the coldest mornings of the year, 

the skies are filled with around 40 balloons, 

loaded with visitors seeking an aerial 

perspective of this outlandish landscape; in 

high season, there are up to 100. 

“It’s best that the balloons don’t touch 

each other,” the pilot casually informs me. 

“But it’s hard to navigate in a hot air balloon, 

particularly over Cappadocia. When the sun 

rises, the wind direction can suddenly change 

by 80-120 degrees; each of these valleys also 

channels wind, causing more uncertainty. 

Journeys are unchartable. Only in the final 20 

minutes do we plan our landing location.” 

IMAGE: GETTY 


ONLINE // SMART TRAVELLER 

ost ead 

LIKE THIS? READ MORE 

ABOUT TURKEY ONLINE 

MADRASAS OF SIVAS 

A peek into the medieval 

centres of learning 

reveals a fascinating 

cultural history 

ANCIENT ANI 

Ani, ‘the city of a 

thousand and one 

churches’, marks the 

point where the Silk Road 

reaches Asia Minor 

ALAÇATI 

For boho-chic boutique 

hotels, rustic refined 

restaurants and a 

laid-back surfer vibe, say 

hello to Turkey’s latest, 

(almost) Aegean resort 

VISIT US ONLINE AT 

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Travel Video of the Week each 

Friday, get your fix of National 

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In strong winds, he tells me, we may come 

in to land sideways and have to adopt the 

brace position as we use the basket as an 

anchor, allowing it to strike the ground on its 

edge and tip over… with us inside. “It’s a fun 

job,” he says, “but a lot of responsibility.” 

After sinking further, we’re now teetering 

above — and surrounded by — treacherous 

spikes of volcanic rock. Despite the odd burst 

of flame blasting into the balloon, we seem 

to be struggling to get any lift, and instead 

we slalom between stone shards. Eventually, 

another jet of super-heated 

air arbitrarily boosts us 

heavenward, and I grip wicker 

more tightly than Yogi Bear on 

a ‘pic-a-nic’ pilfer. In a bid to 

counteract vertigo, I tie a rope 

handle around my wrist, take 

a deep breath and focus on 

those views — and what views. 

I’d heard of Cappadocia’s lunar 

landscapes before; I’ve never 

visited the Moon so I couldn’t 

metaphorise so confidently, but 

I agree that this place is like no 

other on this planet. 

As we hit 2,000ft, the breadth 

of these epic vistas is, at last, 

revealed. Sand dunes ripple 

with waved contours, like great 

slouching bags of cement: 

the product of millennia-old 

volcanic rock, sculpted by the 

breath of a zillion zephyrs. 

Below, in the Devrent Valley, 

the elements have whittled the limestone 

rock into fairytale spires: mushroom-capped 

and pocked with irregular windows and 

doors like a Jim Henson movie backdrop. In 

other places, the rock is spiked into riotous 

flames; or wind-burnished into curvaceous 

monuments. And in the valley’s labyrinthine 

caves, hollowed out of the limestone in the 

second century, some of the first Christian 

churches can be found. 

What seems like an eternity later, 

my pilot gently sets our basket down in 

a flat spot amid this aeonian landscape. 

Only an hour has passed. Time is indeed 

a matter of perspective. 

JAMES DRAVEN 

From a hiker’s guide to Western Europe to a trip through the 

heart of Australia — here are our most popular online posts 

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Chile 

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EUROPE 

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Weekender 

RICHMOND 

A leafy, well-polished utopia down by the river, 

Richmond is the west London wonder, offering a 

fresh angle on a frenetic city. Words: Zane Henry 

Richmond upon Thames is a mini republic that 

orbits around itself with only fleeting concern 

for the rest of London. Time moves more slowly 

here. People look healthier. The air seems lighter and feels 

more expensive. A 2016 survey decreed the borough of 

Richmond the happiest place to live in the city. And for 

those living closer to the soot-darkened heart of London, 

it offers an appealing weekend break that’s half an hour 

from Waterloo but light years away from its scrum of 

stress and frenetic energy. The good vibes spill out from 

the town centre to the river, where locals and tourists 

stroll, occasionally flinging themselves upon the water in 

boats and canoes. At weekends, Richmond Green is full of 

picnicking families, young people pleasantly day-drunk, 

and sporty people doing sporty things. Pervading 

it all is a sense that Richmond is the good life, distilled. 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Grazing deer; 

sunshine on the banks of the river Thames 

near the White Cross pub; inside Palm 

House, Kew Gardens; the Palm House and 

surrounding gardens 

For those living closer to the sootdarkened 

heart of London, Richmond 

offers an appealing weekend break 

that’s half an hour from Waterloo but 

light years away from its scrum of stress 


Riverside 

The Thames looks cleaner here — almost 

see-through. Richmond Bridge Boathouses 

rents out rowboats for up to 12 people, 

although if you’d prefer a drier experience, 

take the longish river walk to Marble Hill 

House, and hop on the ferry to equally 

historic Ham House. Afterwards, reward 

yourself with a few pints at The White 

Cross. Watch out, though; at high tide, the 

pub becomes its own island. 

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY 

THREE TO TRY 

Richmond 

restaurants 

BEIRUT STREET KITCHEN 

A fiver gets you a crispy falafel 

wrapped in stone-baked 

flatbread from this Lebanese 

joint. Don’t miss out on the 

manakish za’atar (flatbread 

topped with spices) and 

pomegranate lemonade. 

RINCON 

Traditional Spanish tapas and 

an expansive wine list. Go on 

evenings when they host live Latin 

music and jazz bands. A word of 

caution — their sangria is potent. 

rincon-bar.co.uk 

GALETERIA DANIELI 

Head up to Brewers Lane 

for authentic Italian gelato 

from Galeteria Danieli. The 

pistachio, fig and mandarin 

flavour is delicious. 

gelateriadanieli.com 

Get out 

Even if you’ve been to Kew Royal 

Botanical Gardens before, regular 

new additions make it worth 

another visit. Installed last year, 

The Hive is a 17-metre tall outdoor 

installation that uses LED-lights 

and a mesmerising soundtrack to 

immerse you into the secret lives of 

bees. Of the perennial attractions, 

the Palm House is like stepping into 

a massive steam-room populated 

by giant ferns and palms. As special 

as Kew is, it doesn’t have deer — 

but they can usually be found in 

Richmond Park. If you don’t see 

any, mollify your disappointment 

by climbing King Henry’s Mound, 

where the trees frame a tunnel-like 

view directly across London to St 

Paul’s Cathedral. 


WEEKENDER 

FROM TOP: Head chef Damian Clisby 

prepares a dish; Petersham Nurseries cafe 

EYEWITNESS 

THE GOOD LIFE 

City life 

Make sure to salute 

the bust of Chilean 

revolutionary Bernardo 

O’Higgins in O’Higgins 

Square as you head 

over the bridge to the 

town centre. Your 

next stop is Duck 

Pond Market in Heron 

Square, where you’ll 

find quiches, Belgian 

waffles, and loads of 

cheeses. After eating, 

go treasure-hunting 

at Richmond Hill 

Antiques; you might 

just find a hidden gem. 

The hostess looks genuinely concerned. “You 

didn’t book? Like, at all? Online, maybe?” 

There’s nothing arrogant or dismissive about 

her tone — she just can’t fathom what would 

make two sane-looking people think they 

could walk in and get a table at the Michelinstarred 

Petersham Nurseries Cafe at 2pm on 

a Sunday. 

“Look, you seem… nice. Maybe if you 

come back at 3.45pm, I’ll see what I can 

do. But you’ll have to order straight away 

because we’ll be closing the kitchen 15 

minutes later,” she says in a very slow, 

deliberate and kindly tone. 

We should’ve known better. The restaurant 

had come highly recommended by everyone 

we’d spoken to, and we’d passed a long line of 

luxury cars parked in the muddy lane leading 

up to its entrance. 

The appeal is obvious. Right next to 

Petersham Meadows, a roll down the hill 

from Richmond Park, it offers a tweedy 

bucolic aesthetic with a sheeny overcoat of 

cosmopolitanism. The restaurant is situated 

in the nursery itself, inside a glasshouse with 

greenery growing overhead, upon the pillars 

and along the walls. It’s quite beautiful. 

Standing on the outside, looking in 

through the windows at hands holding 

bottomless glasses of Champagne and faces 

flushed pink with wealth, it was hard to spot 

anyone not wearing pastel-shaded linen. 

We spend the next hour and a bit 

wandering between the adjoining shop 

and nursery, picking up candles we could 

never afford and sniffing at extra-terrestrial 

looking orchids. At 3.40pm, we present 

ourselves once more to the hostess and she 

leads us to a table set amid a flourish of ferns 

and flowers that brush our heads. 

We sit and sigh over head chef Damian 

Clisby’s creations, which include a fennel, 

castelfranco radicchio and blood orange 

salad, and grilled Bramata polenta with 

stuffed artichoke, Delica pumpkin and 

seasonal vegetables. 

I sit back with a glass of wine in my hand 

and a leaf in my ear. Life is good. 

petershamnurseries.com 

visitrichmond.com 

Rooms at the Hilton Syon start from £120 when 

booked direct through the Hilton website. 

hilton.com 

IMAGES: MING TANG EVANS; MARIMO IMAGES 


Eat 

ALENTEJO 

The soul of the nation’s cuisine, the largest Portuguese region of Alentejo offers 

fresh dishes and rich history, all under a cloudless sky. Words: Audrey Gillan 

FROM LEFT: Bakery selling traditional cakes 

and pastries; the twisted cork trees of Alentejo; 

lunch overlooking the Alentejo countryside 

D 

ense chewy bread with a crust you 

can knock your knuckles on; black 

Iberico pork that’s sweet, nutty and 

moist; tomatoes so vibrant they could carry 

a meal on their own; verdant, fruity extra 

virgin olive oil; and glorious wines. Set 

these kitchen pantry mainstays against vast 

cloudless blue skies that crown land strewn 

with wheat fields, olive groves and quirky, 

scarecrow-shaped cork trees, and you begin 

to get a tiny taste of Alentejo, the largest yet 

least-populated region in Portugal. 

Meaning ‘land beyond the Tagus’ (the 

river that runs alongside Lisbon), Alentejo 

was historically home to bullfights and 

Lusitano horses. People lived according 

to the weather, working the wine or olive 

harvest in late summer and early winter, 

and living from what they could wrangle 

from a little plot of land, raising a pig and 

growing vegetables, for the rest of the year. 

It’s a place that bakes brown in the 40-degree 

heat of summer, where houses are white and 

windows and doors are outlined in iridescent 

blue, and where you can drive for miles 

without seeing a soul. 

The landscape is the essence of life 

in Alentejo, and it’s also the larder — so 

cooking is simple and rustic. Many of 

the dishes here form the backbone of all 

Portuguese cookery: over the centuries, 

poverty-stricken farming folk fanned out 

across the country in search of work, taking 

their recipes with them. Here, the necessity 

of eking things out came to define popular 

dishes. Stale bread is fried with a little pig fat 

and perhaps some wild asparagus to create 

migas, which simply means ‘crumbs’ and 

is a tasty, crispy breadcrumb kind-of hash. 

Alternately, the old bread is used to thicken 

soup known as açorda. This is built on a 

broth base, sometimes with a small amount 

of shellfish or a poached egg, and is always 

scattered with lots of chopped coriander. 

Frugality abides everywhere and so foraged 

herbs, such as pennyroyal mint and purslane, 

are often used. 

In her exquisitely old-school home in 

the seaside town of Vila Nova de Milfontes, 

Idália Costa José explains how she buys 

produce from farmers across the region and 

sells it every Saturday from her dining room 

to members of the local community. “I buy 

directly from the farmers because they need 

help — they are very poor,” she says. “They 

grow amazing vegetables, including tasty 

tomatoes, but don’t really have places to sell 

their produce. So, we get together and buy it.” 

I capture a sense of what Idália means 

when she describes these flavours when 

I’m presented with a plate of tiny tomatoes, 

lightly roasted and dressed with extra virgin 

olive oil, salt and oregano at nearby Tasca do 

Celso. The tomatoes pretty much explode in 

my mouth and I learn they have actually been 

grown by one of the restaurant’s customers. 


FIVE TASTES OF ALENTEJO 

IMAGES: ALAMY; AUDREY GILLAN 

AÇORDA À 

ALENTEJANA 

A thick, garlicky soup 

using stale bread in 

broth, scented with 

fresh coriander and 

topped with a softpoached 

egg. 

CHEESES 

Evora, Serpa and Nisa 

are all DOP-protected 

cheeses made from 

sheep’s milk. Serpa, 

the most famous, is 

semi-soft and buttery 

in texture. 

CONVENT 

DESSERTS (DOCES 

CONVENTUAIS) 

Cakes and desserts 

made from egg yolks, 

sugar and almonds, 

originally created by 

nuns and monks. 

PORCO À 

ALENTEJANA 

Small, sweet clams 

with pork that have 

been marinated in 

white wine, garlic and 

massa de pimentão 

(red pepper paste). 

PORCO PRETO 

IBÉRICO 

The prized black pigs 

thrive on the fallen 

acorns of cork trees; 

consequently, the 

meat has a nutty, 

sweet flavour. 


EAT 

A TASTE OF 

Alentejo 

Carlos Barros of Arte e Sal 

RIGHT: A range of sweet 

desserts at Fialho 

This place, owned by the jovial José Ramos 

Cardoso, or Celso to his friends, grills 

fish over a huge charcoal grill and offers 

fantastic petiscos (snacks) as well as prawns 

with garlic, and coriander and rice with 

sweet, fragrant clams. The wine list here 

is enormous, celebrating some of the 300 

or so wine producers in the region, as well 

as across Portugal. Celso presents me with 

a plate of Serpa, which he says is the best 

cheese in the Alentejo — aged for at least 30 

days, it’s moist and creamy and I find myself 

murmuring blissed-out agreement. 

At the Saturday market in the town of 

Estremoz, in the eastern part of the province, 

I sample the various Portuguese sausages 

that are a highlight of the region — chouriço, 

linguiça, morcela and farinheira, the latter 

an Alentejo speciality made from bread and 

pork fat. As well as wonderful fresh produce 

here, there’s a fabulous flea market. When I’m 

done snacking, I head across the main town 

square to Restaurante Mercearia Gadanha, 

where those stunning tomatoes are presented 

as fantastica sopa fria — a cold soup dressed 

with strawberry, prawn and a basil ice. The 

flavour is amazing. A puff pastry of partridge 

(a local speciality) takes the Portuguese 

fondness for pies and pastries to another level. 

Some of the best places to get a true taste 

of Alentejo are the vineyards themselves. 

Herdade da Malhadinha Nova has a restaurant 

on its estate, but I eat in the smaller dining 

room in the country house. Here, I watch chefs 

assemble plates that combine produce from 

the estate with that of the wider region. Skilled 

hands marry prawns with asparagus and 

seared acorn-fed pork, all of it matched with 

wine produced right outside the door. 

At Herdade do Sobroso Country House, 

in Baixo Alentejo, I meet winemaker Filipe 

Machada and his wife Sofia, owners of a 

4,000 acre property, of which just 130 acres 

is cultivated for wine. Over lunch, Sofia 

explains that they like to keep the food very 

traditional. There’s good sheep’s cheese, their 

own honey, salt cod croquettes and chicken 

pies, and then a main course of cozido de grão, 

a stew of chickpeas with lamb, pork, veal and 

sausage. As I taste Filipe’s wine, I learn how 

the nearby town of Vidigueira — ‘land of the 

wine’ — brought the first gold medal for wine 

back to Portugal more than 100 years ago. And 

how, many years after he discovered India, 

returning home with ingredients that would 

change the cooking of his country and the 

rest of Europe forever, 15th-century explorer 

Vasco da Gama retired to this corner of the 

Alentejo. As I glory in the simplicity of the 

place, I can see why that great explorer would 

happily settle into some lovely twilight years 

under these astonishing blue skies. 

visitalentejo.pt/en 

TAP Portugal flies direct to Lisbon from Heathrow, 

Gatwick, London City and Manchester. flytap.com 

Herdade de Maladinha Nova offers double rooms 

from £209; Convento do Espinheiro from £142, 

including wine tasting. malhadinhanova.pt/en 

conventodoespinheiro.com/en 

ARTE E SAL 

The day’s catch is laid out and 

you can eat on the terrace by the 

waves of the Costa Vicentina. 

Owner Carlos Barros knows 

everything about Portuguese fish, 

but will bring a book to the table 

to help you understand what’s 

on offer. On my visit there were 

petiscos of octopus salad and 

home-made duck liver pate, and a 

main of grilled sargo (sea bream). 

HOW MUCH: Three-course dinner 

from £20 per person (without 

wine) but expect to pay more 

should you order a big fish. 

en.rotavicentina.com 

FIALHO, EVORA 

The tables of the region’s mostfamous 

restaurant heave with 

traditional Alentejo cuisine. 

Meat pastries (pastéis de massa 

en tenra) are glorious, as are the 

chicken pies. Desserts include 

encharcada, an Alentejo dish 

of bruléed egg yolks, sugar and 

cinnamon, and serricaia (an eggy 

pudding) with sugared plums. 


from £21 per person, without wine. 

restaurantefialho.pt 

DIVINUS RESTAURANT, 

CONVENTO DO ESPINHEIRO 

A stunning setting inside this 

ancient convent is matched 

with cooking that takes Alentejo 

cuisine up a notch. Chef Bouazza 

Bouhlani offers dishes such as 

scrambled eggs with local, wild 

asparagus and a trilogy of Alentejo 

pork with asparagus migas (fried 

richly-flavoured breadcrumbs). 


from £35 per person, without wine. 

divinusrestaurante.com 

IMAGES: AUDREY GILLAN; VISIT PORTUGAL 


SWEDEN 

A new course every day! 

WWW.GRONHOGEN.SE

Neighbourhood 

SYDNEY 

Australia’s largest city is more than just its iconic opera house and harbour 

bridge. Pick a neighbourhood and dive in to find craft beer, Asian street food and 

beachside modernism. Words: David Whitley. Photographs: Chris Van Hove 

ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN 

The lazy shorthand version of Sydney is pretty appealing: pootling 

about on the harbour, taking that bridge and opera house snapshot 

then plonking yourself on a beach — it’s not a bad way to spend a few 

days. But behind Sydney’s easy-going, eye-catching facade lies a more 

interesting beast. Few visitors expect the prissily cute and near ubiquitous 

Victorian housing, for example. Or the wild national parkland just a 

few minutes’ walk from major tourist hangouts. Or the extensive Asian 

influence. Not to mention the burgeoning craft brewing scene, the 

transformative architecture and speckled remnants from the time before 

Europeans arrived on the scene. Even in the most well-trodden 

neighbourhoods, a little prodding unveils a totally different story. And, in 

others, furiously paced overhauls have torn up the script. 


NEIGHBOURHOOD 

CLOCKWISE: A barista prepares coffee 

at Harry’s; vertical gardens at One 

Central Park, Chippendale; al fresco 

dining at Spice Alley 

Joggers puff and pant 

up the steps leading 

to the Harbour Bridge 

walkway; rainbow 

lorikeets and ibises flit 

around Observatory 

Hill Park; gorgeously 

past-their-prime 

houses with subsiding 

verandahs and 

corrugated iron roofs 

are spread out below 

Chippendale 

‘Where’s Chippendale?’ An acceptable 

question for an outsider, but one, until 

recently, you might even have heard from the 

mouth of a local. 

However, things have changed, and 

Chippendale is no longer a nothing suburb, 

passed through unknowingly en route from 

the central business district (CBD) to the 

hipster enclaves of the Inner West. 

The transformation began with the White 

Rabbit Gallery. Opened in 2009, this private 

collection of modern Chinese artworks 

— whose only common theme is that they 

consistently weird out anyone looking at them 

— has become the figurehead for a burgeoning 

artistic community. Dig into the lanes, 

courtyards and crumbling houses nearby and 

you’ll find small galleries, studios, workshops 

and collectives merrily doing their own thing. 

The metamorphosis continued with the 

opening of The Old Clare Hotel on the site 

of the former Carlton & United Brewery: a 

knowingly cool five-star joint with rooftop 

pool, fashion shoot lights in the rooms and 

industrial-chic bare walls. Next to it is One 

Central Park, designed by French starchitect 

Jean Nouvel: two plant-clad residential towers 

with a flower bed on each floor, shopping 

mall on the lower levels and cantilevered 

penthouses at the top — the overall effect: 

ultramodernity being reclaimed by the jungle. 

A key part of why this all works is that 

the new and the old seem well blended. 

Wandering the narrow streets and laneways 

around the big shiny projects doesn’t feel like 

strolling through a hermetically sealed bubble. 

Spice Alley is a tremendous example of 

this; a U-shaped laneway has been turned into 

an Asian street food hub, with simple stools 

and tables crowding the pavement. Korean, 

Malaysian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese 

dishes are served up from joints that are 

curious food stall-restaurant hybrids; a 

garishly painted tuk tuk guards the entrance 

and Chinese lanterns hang overhead. 

Chippendale is no longer just a hotspot for 

casual dining either; Automata is one of the 

city’s new tasting menu-only hotspots, with 

an open-plan kitchen and a predilection for 

bold, palate-challenging flavours. Mustard 

oils, vinegars and fermented vegetables are 

among the twists that make virtually every 

dish arresting. 

The question is no longer ‘Where’s 

Chippendale?’ but ‘Where in Chippendale...?’ 


NEIGHBOURHOOD 

WHEN IN SYDNEY 

BEACH KNOW-HOW 

Every Sydneysider has their 

favourite beach. Bondi, Coogee 

and Manly are the best-known to 

visitors, mainly because they’re 

easier to reach. They’re also the 

busiest, whereas those north of 

Manly are no less spectacular but 

often quieter — try Narrabeen, 

Bilgola or Palm Beach. 

COOL POOLS 

If you’re after duck-pond placidity 

rather than crashing surf, there are 

several big outdoor pools, from 

the showy Andrew ‘Boy’ Charlton 

Pool next to the Royal Botanic 

Gardens and the giant rock poolesque 

Wylie’s Baths in Coogee. 

SPICE IT UP 

In Sydney, cheap Thai joints are 

plentiful, while Indian food is 

patchy and pricey. Many of the 

Thai restaurants — especially in 

the Inner West — adhere to a BYO 

booze policy for a corkage fee. 

SMALL BEER 

New South Wales doesn’t really do 

pints; the main measurement here 

is the 375ml ‘schooner’ (sensible 

due to the warm climate). The 

new fad for ‘schmiddies’ (355ml 

glasses popular at craft beer 

establishments), however, has 

divided opinion among locals. 

DOLLAR GRILLS 

Australians love a barbecue. And 

thankfully, you don’t need the 

full kit to join in. Coin-operated 

public barbecues in beachside 

parks are one of the country’s 

crowning achievements. 

FROM LEFT: Crispy rolled egg with chorizo and lime, a signature 

dish from Harry’s Cafe; flying the flags at The Lord Nelson Brewery 

Hotel, one of Sydney’s oldest pubs 

The Rocks 

‘He appears to have been ambivalent regarding 

which side of the law he operated on,’ reads the 

sign tucked away in one of those impossibleto-rediscover 

alleys that spring up throughout 

The Rocks, a tourist precinct and historic area. 

It’s telling the story of George Cribbs, a 

19th-century convict and butcher-turnedlandowner 

whose slaughterhouse is now 

part of an archaeological dig site. Perched 

on stilts above a decent chunk of it is the 

remarkable Sydney Harbour YHA – The 

Rocks. Small wire-frame horses and 

cockatoos, inexplicably attached to a fence 

over the road, add an art installation touch. 

This isn’t The Rocks that many visitors see, 

largely because they don’t know to look for it. 

Sydney’s most historic neighbourhood tends 

to act as a grazing paddock for mooching 

tourists who amble along the waterfront or 

along George Street, covering the well-trodden 

postcard-shot territory between the Sydney 

Harbour Bridge and the cruise ship terminal. 

Delve into the lanes, staircases and tunnels, 

however, and a very different picture emerges. 

Joggers puff and pant up the steps leading 

to the Harbour Bridge walkway; rainbow 

lorikeets and ibises flit around Observatory 

Hill Park; gorgeously past-their-prime houses 

with subsiding verandahs and corrugated iron 

roofs spread out below. They’re an indicator 

that people still live here, on land developers 

would love to get their hands on. 

Feistily ramshackle Millers Point morphs 

into the incongruous Walsh Bay, where 

old wharves now house creative agencies 

and luxury apartments with status-symbol 

yachts outside. Cafes churn out espressos, 

but The Rocks is definitely more of a beer 

kind of place. It has a greedy concentration 

of pubs, most of which seem to have some 

sort of claim on being the oldest in town. 

The best, however, have another trick up 

their sleeve besides longevity. Long before 

Sydney cottoned on to the craft brewing craze, 

The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel, for instance, 

was brewing its own. Its Three Sheets — a 

robust 5% pale ale — is likely to induce a 

warm, fuzzy indifference to this ale-house 

one-upmanship, even after only a couple. 

Then, there’s the Australian Heritage Hotel, 

a pub that offers visitors the perfect fix of 

Australiana. The benches outside fill up as 

soon as work is finished for the day, and the 

half-emu, half-pepper kangaroo Coat of Arms 

gourmet pizza soaks up the beers a treat. 


NEIGHBOURHOOD 

Bondi 

Tables are a precious commodity on 

Sunday mornings at Harry’s. Those who 

do get lucky lazily chat their way through 

such breakfast delights as eggs, avocado 

and kale. Some are on pavement tables, 

others on stools at the counter, gazing 

through the big open windows. 

There are dozens of cafes like this in 

Bondi, the beach suburb that takes Sydney’s 

brunching obsession to its zenith. It’s 

Australia at its most Southern Californian 

— everyone looks sickeningly fit and 

beautiful, the dogs on leads are always tiny 

and surfboards take to the ocean. 

New developments have added to that 

vibe — Bondi has undergone a considerable 

sprucing up in the past few years. The Bondi 

Pacific apartments complex, on Campbell 

Parade, which hosts the airily hip QT Bondi 

hotel, is clearly aimed at those with both 

serious money and designer inclinations. 

The North Bondi Surf Life Saving Club’s 

revamp has turned it into a modernist 

architectural statement; celebrity chef 

restaurants such as former MasterChef 

Australia judge Matt Moran’s North Bondi 

Fish are muscling out down-at-heel joints; 

indie boutiques boast eye-catching dresses 

with eye-watering price tags. 

It all comes with a big dose of diversity, 

too. North Bondi is one of Sydney’s premier 

gay hangouts; Thai massage joints sit 

happily alongside Brazilian churrascarias, 

Portuguese chicken shops and gelaterias so 

good they have permanent queues outside; 

the backpacker and Orthodox Jewish 

communities are also both large and visible. 

Of course, the real draw of Bondi isn’t the 

streets, it’s the beach. On summer Sundays, 

the half-mile swathe of sand is crowded with 

bodies. More still are bobbing between the 

flags, trying to catch the waves and bodysurf 

back to shore. And, throughout the day, 

thousands of somewhat unnecessarily lycraclad 

walkers strut off around the clifftops on 

the four-mile Bondi to Coogee Walk. 

Yet when the day breaks, there’s a 

calmness and raw beauty, and Eugene Tan 

will be there to capture it. His Aquabumps 

photographic gallery is the result of a 

quixotic passion for the ocean and the surf 

that’s seen him take pictures of Bondi at 

dawn every day since 1999. In his shots, the 

lone swimmers, the pink skies and the waves 

crashing into the saltwater pools strip Bondi 

back to its core. 

MORE INFO 

White Rabbit. whiterabbitcollection.org 

The Old Clare Hotel. theoldclarehotel.com.au 

Central Park. centralparksydney.com 

Spice Alley. kensingtonstreet.com.au 

Automata. automata.com.au 

The Big Dig. thebigdig.com.au 

Sydney Harbour YHA – The Rocks. yha.com.au 

The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel. 

lordnelsonbrewery.com 

Australian Heritage Hotel. 

australianheritagehotel.com 

Harry’s. 2/136 Wairoa Ave. T: 00 61 2 9130 2180. 

QT Bondi. qthotelsandresorts.com 

North Bondi Fish. northbondifish.com.au 

Aquabumps. aquabumps.com 

transportnsw.info 

Lonely Planet Pocket Sydney. RRP: £7.99. 

Singapore Airlines has one-stop flights to Sydney 

from Heathrow and Manchester via Singapore. 

Expedia offers economy flights plus a 13-night stay 

at The Old Clare Hotel from £1,455 per person. 

singaporeair.com expedia.co.uk 

ABOVE: Sunday swimmers at the city’s iconic Bondi 

Baths, Icebergs Club 

LEFT: A jogger runs along Bondi’s promenade with its 

street art 


TIME 

IS PRECIOUS. ALWAYS 

MAKE THE 

VERY BEST 

OF IT. 

WHATEVER YOU‘RE LOOKING FOR: 

IT‘S WAITING FOR YOU HERE. 

HOTEL | SPA | RESTAURANT & BAR 

BURGGASSE 2 | 1070 WIEN, AUSTRIA | T: +43-1-522 25 20 

WWW.SANSSOUCI-WIEN.COM

Sleep 

VIENNA 

For a right royal experience, a stay in Vienna is hard to beat. Yet amid the 

regal villas, palaces, opulent art galleries and traditional coffee houses, there 

are many surprisingly affordable places to bed down. Words: Julia Buckley 

If you plan on visiting Vienna, you’re in luck. Not just because of the wealth of 

impressive sights: the imperial palaces, the art, the landmark coffee houses, where 

tradition dictates you may while away hours with a single drink... When it comes to 

hotels, Vienna is highly affordable, and even the budget hotels have style. The first 

district, or Innere Stadt, is the obvious place to stay — most of the best sights for 

first-timers are in this largely pedestrianised zone, encircled by the Ringstrasse, 

with St Stephen’s Cathedral and its ornate tiled roof as the focal point. Many of the 

grand, neo-baroque buildings here have been converted into luxury hotels. Secondtimers 

might like to stay in a district beyond the Ringstrasse. Not only is it cheaper, 

it can give a completely different take on the city. And don’t let the names fool you; 

the ‘outer’ districts, for example, encompass the Innere Stadt, and in the seventh 

district, you’re often closer to the grand cathedral than in the second. Neubau is the 

hipster hub, Wieden’s residential streets unfurl onto the Belvedere Palace, and 

Leopoldstadt has the Prater park with its iconic 19th-century Ferris wheel. From 

each, it’s a short metro or pretty tram-ride back to the Ring. 

F 

IMAGE: GETTY 


For histor 

HOTEL SACHER 

The Sacher has come a long way since it was 

a mere delicatessen — thanks largely to its 

status as the birthplace of the Sachertorte. It 

was here in 1832 that Edouard Sacher created 

the famous chocolate cake that was to bear 

his name. On the back of that, he opened 

what’s still Vienna’s only family-run five-star 

hotel — today boasting 149 rooms spread 

across six buildings. The decor straddles the 

divide between traditional and modern, with 

mirrored walls and sleek furniture mixed 

with gilt-framed oil paintings and flock 

wallpaper. And they don’t half work the cake 

connection, with Sachertorte featuring at 

the breakfast buffet and as a turndown gift. 

Guests can also expect chocolate-scented 

in-room toiletries and chocolate-based 

treatments at the spa. 

ROOMS: From €450 (£389), B&B. 

sacher.com 


SLEEP 

For eco waios 

BOUTIQUE HOTEL 

STADTHALLE 

Worthy needn’t mean dull. That’s the message 

at this family-run hotel, split between a 

Victorian building and a new-build ‘passive’ 

(carbon neutral) wing. Energy comes from 

rooftop solar panels; heat from a ground 

water heat pump; honey from bees on the 

lavender-planted roof; and every breakfast 

item is organic. There are no minibars (saving 

21 tonnes of CO2 a year), organic toiletries 

come in refillable bottles, and the headboards 

are made from recycled textiles. The older 

building is pretty green, too, with nightstands 

made from recycled newspapers, tables from 

old books and wardrobes from broom handles. 

ROOMS: From €108 (£93), B&B. 

hotelstadthalle.at 

For ethos 

MAGDAS HOTEL 

The Magdas hit the news when it opened 

two years ago, for being staffed mainly 

by refugees and asylum seekers. Run by 

international Catholic charity Caritas, it’s 

a decent budget option in a pretty location 

overlooking the Prater. Rooms are basic 

(no TV) but nicely done, with upcycled 

furniture and locally-made organic 

toiletries — it’s worth upgrading to one 

with a balcony when the weather’s nice. 

Breakfast is a brilliant, cosmopolitan buffet, 

but save room for a mezze lunch, made by a 

Syrian chef who previously worked at a top 

restaurant in Damascus. 

ROOMS: From €67 (£58), B&B. 

magdas-hotel.at 


SLEEP 

For iews 

GRAND FERDINAND 

The Grand Ferdinand is a little different to the other 

grande dames of the Ringstrasse. Yes, it’s palatial but 

unlike its 19th-century neighbours, this eight-storey 

postwar building was, until recently, crawling with spies, 

as the home of Austria’s domestic intelligence agency. The 

seventh-floor suites are something to behold — there’s 

nothing undercover about luxury here — but there are also 

a pair of dormitories, with mahogany bunk beds, bookable 

on Airbnb. This is hipster-luxe: Freudian couches but 

no wardrobes, rainforest showers right next to the bed, a 

restaurant serving cheap goulash with Champagne. Up on 

the roof is the crowning glory: the glass-walled Restaurant 

Bel Étage, for guests and members only, with white 

banquettes and armchairs overlooking the Ringstrasse, 

and views of the Belvedere palace from the terrace pool. 

ROOMS: From €210 (£182), B&B. Dorms from €30/£26. 

grandferdinand.com 


SLEEP 

For stle 

THE GUEST HOUSE 

Terence Conran has a thing for Vienna 

— he’s designed two hotels and a coffee house 

here. The most recent, The Guest House, is 

a swish affair, with minibars restocked with 

four bottles of wine daily, and the in-room 

coffee machines grind fresh beans (roasted by 

local company Naber) for every cup. There’s 

a homely feel, with rooms kitted out with 

sofas instead of desks; most have windowseats 

overlooking the central Albertinaplatz 

(standard rooms don’t — the upgrade is well 

worth it), and guests are encouraged to bring 

their free wine downstairs to drink in the 

packed-with-locals downstairs brasserie. 

ROOMS: From €255 (£220), room only. 

theguesthouse.at 

For hipsters 

HOTEL AM BRILLANTENGRUND 

You’ll either love or loathe the Brillantengrund, in 

trendy Neubau; the decor is deliberately dowdy and 

frequently kitsch: funky wallpaper, naff artwork, 

furniture unchanged since the 1970s. The restaurant, 

Mama, serves Filipino food cooked by the owner’s 

mother and the ‘garage’ hosts everything from art 

exhibitions to arts workshops and parties. While it’s 

not rowdy, it’s not really for early-nighters. 

ROOMS: From €69 (£60), B&B. brillantengrund.com 

THREE TO TRY 

For couples 

HOTEL ALTSTADT 

Set in a former apartment block with high ceilings 

and parquet floors, the Altstadt whisks guests back 

to the days of Freud and Klimt. Rooms are individually 

designed — some kitted out with antiques, others 

saucy modern art, peek-a-boo showers or Swarowksi 

crystal-encrusted walls; four junior suites have recently 

been refurbished with the help of top local designers. 

Yet it all feels homely; there’s even free afternoon tea. 

ROOMS: From €149 (£129), B&B. altstadt.at 

For luxury 

PALAIS COBURG 

Built in 1802 as a palace for the Saxe-Coburg family, 

Palais Coburg retains a regal feel; some of its 34 suites 

boast a sauna, others a whirlpool bath, while the goldplated 

staterooms — renovated to their original outré 

glory — are where Johann Strauss composed two 

polkas and, more recently, where the Iran nuclear deal 

was done. That said, the wine bar and pretty garden 

restaurant Clementine have a pleasantly informal vibe. 

ROOMS: From €795 (£687), B&B. palais-coburg.com 


SLEEP 

For budget 

RUBY LISSI 

The city’s two Ruby hotels 

— Ruby Sofie, near the 

Hundertwasserhaus, and Ruby 

Marie, by Westbahnhof — are 

already two of Vienna’s bestvalue 

digs, but the newly-opened 

Ruby Lissi eclipses them both. 

Set in a former monastery in 

the historic Innere Stadt, its 107 

small-but-chic rooms have a 

19th-century theme, inspired by 

Empress Sisi. Modern touches 

include in-room tablets, hire 

bikes and a 24/7 bar. Ruby hotels 

attract a youngish crowd, so 

expect excellent tech and the odd 

burst of rock music (guests can 

borrow electric guitars). 

ROOMS: From €59 (£51), room 

only. ruby-hotels.com 

For second-timers 

GRÄTZLHOTEL 

Straddling the divide between 

a hotel and an Airbnb, 

Grätzlhotel’s rooms and suites 

are set in former business 

premises (including a bakery 

and a cobblers) close to three 

landmarks: Meidlinger Markt, 

the Belvedere Palace and the 

Karmelitermarkt. There’s no 

check-in, as such; guests pick up 

their keys from an outdoor safe; 

each location has a makeshift 

reception — a local business, 

ranging from a restaurant to 

the offices of the Grätzlhotel’s 

architect owners. Clearly, this 

quirky setup won’t appeal to 

everyone, but visitors looking to 

live like a local while enjoying 

the convenience of a hotel 

should check it out. 

ROOMS: From €120 (£104), room 

only. graetzlhotel.com 


Exceptional escape at The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna 

Directly located on the famous Ring Boulevard and set within four historic palaces, 

The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna offers a luxury experience for the most discerning guest. 

The five star hotel blends Renaissance, baroque and gothic influences with 

modern amenities including the Atmosphere Rooftop Bar overlooking the city, 

The Ritz-Carlton Spa with the longest indoor pool, at 18 meters featuring 

underwater music, the exclusive Club Lounge and the farm-to-table Dstrikt 

Steakhouse. Adjacent to the historic Stadtpark, the hotel allows for easy 

exploration of top attractions. 

Begin planning your stay by contacting our reservations team + 43 1 311 88 113 or 

reservations.vienna@ritzcarlton.com

74 natgeotraveller.co.uk 

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; 

GETTY; 4CORNERS

AMERICAN 

NATURAL 

WO N D E R S 

A SPOUTING VOLCANO; A DESERT VALLEY 

OF BARE ROCK FORMS; A MOUNTAIN 

RANGE HOME TO THE WORLD’S OLDEST 

LIFE FORMS... NO OTHER NATION DOES 

EPIC LANDSCAPES LIKE THE USA 

Words AARON MILLAR 


USA 

Wyoming, Montana & Idaho 

YELLOWSTONE 

GEYSER BASINS 

The American painter Anne Coe called Yellowstone ‘the place where 

the centre of the Earth finds an exit and gives us a glimpse of its 

soul’. As I stand on the edge of Old Faithful — the centrepiece of the 

Upper Geyser Basin, the largest concentration of geysers on Earth — I 

know what she means. It’s winter. Steam billows from the valley like 

bonfires; the ground hisses, shaking like marching drums beneath 

my feet. Suddenly a super-heated plume of water erupts 90ft in the 

air. I watch it crystallise in the freeze and fall like shards of glass. It’s 

spectacular, and unnerving, like a gasp from the underworld. But Old 

Faithful’s fame rests in its reliability, spouting like clockwork every 

90 minutes. 

This 3,468sq mile wilderness, where bison and wolves roam free, 

is America’s first national park, established in 1872 after fur trappers 

returned east with seemingly tall tales of a magical landscape where 

the ground bubbled and jets of scalding water shot hundreds of feet 

into the air. But they were right, Yellowstone is magic. There are over 

10,000 hydrothermal features here: a tapestry of bubbling pools, 

hot springs and vents, plus the world’s largest collection of active 

geysers. I find pools of pure sapphire, boiling mud pots of cinnamon 

and rainbow slicks of bright red, orange and green, like an abstract 

painting. Some geysers look like castle turrets; others beehives; 

some sparkle like stars; others fizzle or scream like a gale. But what’s 

most astonishing is that they’re alive with microscopic artists — the 

bands of colour in their superheated waters created by thermophilic 

THE YEAR WOLVES WERE RETURNED TO YELLOWSTONE 

microbes. The most beautiful of all: the Grand Prismatic Spring, the 

largest hot spring in the US at 90 metres across. Like a vast tie-dye 

painting, concentric rings of rainbow colours spread out from a 

cobalt centre; viewed from above, a blue-eyed giant seems to be 

staring up from beneath the Earth. 

That night, I lie down next to Black Sand Pool, a geyser on the edge 

of the basin; nothing but stars and steam all around. A low-pitched 

sonic boom shoots up from deep below and punches me in the back. 

I jump up; I’m no longer visualising the world beneath my feet as 

solid ground; instead, I’m seeing a precarious honeycomb filled with 

fire and unfathomable force. “It’s like there’s a monster trying to get 

out,” my guide Alex laughs. And he’s right, there really is a monster. 

Yellowstone sits on top of one of the world’s 

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largest active supervolcanoes. When, not 

if, it explodes it will take half the country 

with it and shroud the planet in ash and 

darkness. But that’s why the national park is 

so special. This is creation at work, the world 

at its most primal; ever-changing, with me, 

a mere ant, on its skin. Coe was right: it’s a 

glimpse into the soul of the Earth itself. 


USA 

Grand Prismatic 

Spring, Midway Geyser 

Basin, Yellowstone 

National Park 

BELOW: Star Dune, 

Great Sand Dunes 


Colorado 

GREAT SAND DUNES 

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY 

Standing on the top of the Star Dune, it’s 

hard to believe you’re still in the US. Rolling 

desert spreads out for 30sq miles in all 

directions, like a sea of sand. At dawn, as the 

first rays break over the Sangre de Cristos 

Mountains, the dunes are flushed pink; at 

sunset they turn golden, long geometric 

shadows snaking across the land like a 

Mondrian painting. 

They’re formed from the remains of an 

ancient dried-out lake. Sand is swept up from 

the vast San Luis Valley by the wind and 

pushed against the base of the mountains. 

When storms rage, the wind races back in 

the opposite direction, lifting the dunes 

higher. Grain by grain, over thousands of 

years, these desert mountains were born. 

Getting to the top is hard, but getting 

down is easy: strap on a sandboard or sledge 

(available to rent nearby) and scream all the 

way down. Alternatively, hike just a couple 

miles into the dunes, pitch a tent and enjoy 

the silence and stars of your own private 

desert oasis. 

750FT // THE HEIGHT OF THE 

STAR DUNE — THE TALLEST 

SAND DUNE IN NORTH AMERICA 


USA 

2,425ft 

THE HEIGHT OF 

YOSEMITE FALLS, 

NORTH AMERICA’S 

TALLEST WATERFALL 

California 

YOSEMITE VALLEY 

When President Roosevelt came to Yosemite in 1903 for 

three days of backcountry camping with the naturalist, 

and champion of the park, John Muir, he likened the 

experience to ‘lying in a great solemn cathedral, far vaster 

and more beautiful than any built by the hand of man’. 

Yosemite has that effect on you. There’s something 

almost spiritual in the harmony of stone and sky, as if 

nature had found its perfect balance, its masterpiece of 

light and form. The centrepiece of Yosemite National Park 

is Yosemite Valley, where there are many wonders: the 

staggering cliff face of El Capitan, whose Dawn Wall was 

recently, implausibly, climbed; the cracked edifice of Half 

Dome; and Glacier Point and Tunnel View, vistas made 

famous by the photographer Ansel Adams, one of the 

park’s early champions. And then there are the waterfalls. 

Niagara may be bigger by volume, but Yosemite Falls — a 

spectacular series of three cascades that drop 2,425ft to the 

valley floor — is more than 13 times as tall. In spring, it’s 

a raging torrent, a thunder that echoes across the granite 

cliffs, rainbows sparkling in its mist. And it’s not alone; 

nearby is Sentinel Falls, 2,000ft of snow-melt tumbling 

like a waterslide; Ribbon Falls, 1,600ft of vertical drop, 

the longest in North America; and the otherworldly glow 

of Horsetail Fall, which, in late February, reflects the last 

embers of the setting sun, lighting up like a falling fire. 

Yosemite Valley can get crowded — in summer, it can 

feel like the front row of rock concert. But it’s estimated 

that 95% of visitors cram themselves into only 5% of the 

park — and most never stray more than a mile from their 

car. The spark of Yosemite is the valley, that first gasp of 

wonder and awe, but the fire, the part that stays with you, is 

in the high country, where only a few dare go. 

I start at Mount Hoffman, the 11,000ft geographical 

centre of the park, with the swirling peaks of the Sierra 

Nevada Mountains unfurling around me like waves 

frozen in a storm. From there I spend five days walking 

the High Sierra Loop, a 49-mile backcountry trail that 

links some of Yosemite’s most spectacular and remote 

landscapes. I swim in secret lakes, watch Alpenglow hush 

the peaks with orange and amber and sleep out under the 

endless stars of the Milky Way. I see meadows glowing 

red with bracken and find flowers bursting from the ash of 

lightning-burnt forests. But the more I walk, the more I feel 

like I might just float away. This is a land of giants, too big 

and uncontained to be real. 

At the end of my journey, I climb the 12,000ft knife-edge 

ridge of Cloud’s Rest, 6,000ft of air beneath me on either 

side. From the top, on a clear day, it’s said you can see all 

the way from Nebraska in the east to Hawaii in the west. 

But my eyes are gazing downwards, back at Yosemite 

Valley, where it all began. John Muir said, ‘Mountain 

parks and reservations are useful not only as fountains of 

timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life.’ That 

idea gave birth to the concept of wilderness conservation. 

That’s why Yosemite is special. These were the first lands 

to be put under protection, the 

first time nature was considered 

valuable for its own sake, not just 

the dominion of man. Since then 

the idea has spread across the 

globe, but it began here, among 

these rocky spires, in this solemn 

cathedral, this masterpiece of 

light and form. 

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IMAGES: 4CORNERS; GETTY 


USA 

Dall sheep, Denali National Park 

LEFT: Yosemite Falls, Yosemite 


RIGHT: Brown bear, Denali 


-83C 

Alaska 

DENALI 

This year marks the centenary 

of Denali National Park and 

Preserve, in Southcentral 

Alaska. Covering six million 

acres of arctic forest and high 

alpine tundra, it’s the largest 

national park in the country, 

roughly the size of Vermont. 

To be here is to experience 

America’s last true frontier, 

to hear its original heartbeat, 

the solitude and ferocity of the 

real wilderness. 

In the centre of the park is 

Denali mountain, its name 

meaning ‘the great one’ in native 

Koyukon Athabascan. And so 

it is. Denali is 20,310ft tall, the 

highest peak in North America, 

with a vertical rise of 18,000ft 

— taller than Mount Everest’s 

by a third and the largest of any 

mountain that’s entirely above 

sea level. 

But for all its superlatives, it’s 

the wildlife that most people 

come here for. In a single 

day, it’s possible to see all of 

Alaska’s Big Five: grizzlies, 

wolves, moose, caribou and Dall 

sheep. But get off the path too: 

unlike other national parks, 

the backcountry of Denali has 

no trails or campsites; this is a 

true wilderness, the adventure 

is as big as your imagination can 

make it. 

THE 

TEMPERATURE 

THE SUMMIT 

OF DENALI 

CAN PLUMMET 

TO, WITH 

WIND CHILL 


USA 

Hawaii 

KĪLAUEA & MAUNA LOA 

40 

sq 

The Kīlauea Volcano, on Hawaii’s Big Island, 

has been erupting near continuously for 

more than 34 years and is widely considered 

the most active volcano on Earth. It’s one 

of the most spectacular too; an enormous 

cauldron of spitting fire and smouldering 

lava that’s covered 40sq miles of the island in 

its molten flow. But this year is special. Lava 

is now spilling into the ocean — a six-mile 

river of fire cascading into the sea in torrents 

of steam and hiss. It’s a rare phenomenon 

that few will ever glimpse. 

But it’s not the only remarkable 

volcano on the island. Right next door 

to Kīlauea is her sister, Mauna Loa, the 

largest active volcano on Earth. More 

than 60 miles long, 30 miles wide and 

rising 56,000ft from the ocean floor 

— almost twice the height of Mount Everest 

— it’s large enough to house 3,200 Mount 

St Helens within its colossal frame. Two of 

the world’s great volcanoes — the largest 

active one, and the most active — fiery 

sisters, side by side. 

miles 

AREA OF 

KĪLAUEA 

VOLCANO 

Kīlauea Volcano, Hawaiʻi 

Volcanoes National Park 

RIGHT: White water 

rafting, Hell’s 

Canyon, Oregon 


USA 

Kentucky 

MAMMOTH CAVE 

Idaho & Oregon 

HELL’S CANYON 

Mammoth Cave, in southern Kentucky, is so large that, despite being 

discovered over 200 years ago, researchers still haven’t finished 

mapping it. Current estimates put it at 405 miles deep, the longest cave 

system in the world by far. But size is only part of its wonder. Inside is a 

labyrinth of pristine geological formations: columns of stalactites and 

stalagmites, waterfalls of cascading flowstone and blooms of bright 

crystal gypsum flowers. Walking inside is like peering into a natural 

gallery of stone, carved over 10 million years by rainwater seeping in 

from above, drop by drop into the eerie underworld below. 

405 MILES // ESTIMATED DEPTH OF MAMMOTH CAVE 

The Mississippi may be brimming with 

history and the sounds of the Delta blues, but 

large parts of it are industrial and polluted 

too. For a truly wondrous river, with some 

of the best whitewater in the country, check 

out the Snake River, particularly at Hell’s 

Canyon. With drops of up to 7,993ft, this 

is America’s deepest river gorge, dwarfing 

even the Grand Canyon. See it best on a 

kayaking or rafting trip, where fierce rapids 

are interspersed with long meandering views 

and deserted beaches perfect for camping. 

7,993ft 

THE 

DEPTH 

OF HELL’S 

CANYON, 

AMERICA’S 

DEEPEST 

RIVER 

GORGE 

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY 


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USA 

IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK; GETTY 

California 

BRISTLECONE PINES 

ABOVE: Bristlecone pine, 

Patriarch Grove, Ancient 

Bristlecone Pine Forest, 

White Mountains 

BELOW: Black Canyon 

of the Gunnison 


California’s wonder trees are well known: 

‘the very god of the woods’, as John Muir 

called the sequoia, the largest living thing 

on Earth; and the giant redwood, the 

tallest, stretching 400ft to the sky. But 

there’s another wonder tree that almost no 

one’s heard of, and it’s perhaps the most 

remarkable of all. 

With a potential lifespan of 5,000 years, 

bristlecone pines are the oldest living 

organisms on the planet, some predating the 

birth of Christ, the invention of the alphabet, 

and the fall of Greece, Rome and the Incas. 

When the first stones of the Egyptian 

pyramids were being laid, the most ancient 

of these gnarled and wind-twisted trees 

— found almost exclusively 10,000ft up in 

the White Mountains of California — already 

had its roots in the ground. 

But that’s not the only amazing thing 

about them. Using a combination of living 

and dead wood, scientists have now pieced 

together a continuous tree-ring chronology 

that stretches back 10,000 years to the 

last ice age. Peering inside their rings is 

like looking at a photocopy of the climatic 

conditions of our past, which is helping to 

combat climate change. These trees have 

stood watch over the rise and fall of empires, 

seen the atom split and man walk on the 

Moon. To be near them is to touch deep time 

itself and see the flash of our own lives. 

4,849 

THE AGE OF 

THE OLDEST 

RECORDED 

BRISTLECONE 

PINE, NAMED 

METHUSELAH 

AFTER THE 

MOST ELDERLY 

MAN IN THE 

BIBLE 

Colorado 

BLACK CANYON OF 

THE GUNNISON 

2,722ft 

This 48-mile canyon, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, is barely 

known outside of Colorado but don’t let that put you off. The Grand 

Canyon may be bigger, but this steep and narrow river gorge is just as 

spectacular. The chasm lights up blood red at sunset, with the silver 

sliver of the Gunnison River like a trail of mercury far below. Miles 

away from the artificial lights of civilisation, the Black Canyon of the 

Gunnison National Park (an International Dark Sky Park) is also one 

of the best places in the country for stargazing. 

THE BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON’S DEEPEST POINT — MORE THAN TWICE THE 

HEIGHT OF THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING 


USA 

7,425 SQU 

Navajo farm, Monument Valley 

Navajo Tribal Park, Arizona 


USA 

ARE MILES 

THE SIZE OF THE NAVAJO NATION — THE LARGEST TRIBAL 

RESERVATION IN THE COUNTRY 

Utah 

MONUMENT VALLEY 

IMAGE: AWL IMAGES 

In Navajo legend, the giant red rock mesas of Monument Valley are the carcasses 

of defeated monsters, slain by the holy people and buried in the sand. I’m riding 

out on horseback into the back country, passing Elephant Butte, its long trunk 

frozen in ochre stone; Rain God Mesa, where medicine men come to pray and 

stave off drought; and in the centre of it all, the great Mittens — sandstone 

monoliths rising 1,000ft from the ground, like fists punching up from the earth. 

The Navajo believe they belong to spiritual beings watching over their people. 

Monument Valley is neither a national park nor, officially, part of the US, but 

something much more interesting. Located on the border of Arizona and Utah, in 

the Navajo Nation — a 27,425sq mile sovereign state, spread out across these high 

desert plains — it’s the heart and soul of the Navajo people themselves. 

But although the park is on ‘Indian’ land, it was the cowboys who made it 

famous. Legend has it, when John Wayne first set eyes on Monument Valley, he 

said: “So this is where God put the West”. Classics like Stagecoach and How the West 

Was Won were filmed here, as well as more recent movies such as Johnny Depp’s 

The Lone Ranger. The great national parks of Utah — Canyonlands and Arches 

— are rightly famous, colossal landscapes stripped of all but their bare rock forms, 

like peering into the sinews of the Earth. But if you want to feel the dirt on your 

spurs and the wind on your Stetson, to look into hills and see the ghosts of bandits 

and gunslingers looking back, then it’s to Monument Valley you must come. 

But I’m here for the Navajo. As I explore deeper into the park, I find ruins and 

stone-carved petroglyphs belonging to the Anasazi — ancestors of the Navajo 

who lived here over 1,000 years ago. There are also families here, far from the 

crowds, still living the old ways, without running water or electricity, tending 

flocks of paper-thin sheep and meagre plots of corn. 

That night, I visit a Navajo family in the far depths of the valley, where only the 

faint trace of gravel roads can be seen. I watch two sisters lead a young sheep to a 

wooden block, see a knife put to its throat, every part of him butchered and put 

onto a fire. Later, we sit on the dirt and chew on the fatty ribs, accompanied by blue 

corn mush, fried bread and dried-blood sausage. Three generations sit around me: 

elders who speak no English in moccasins and robes of dazzling green and indigo; 

turquoise necklaces contrasting with their darkened and weathered faces. 

That’s the magic of Monument Valley. It’s a whirlwind of stark primary colours, 

a landscape closer to the surface of Mars, or the bottom of a dried-out ocean 

than anywhere on Earth. But that’s just the start. There’s another world here too, 

woven between the fabric of modern America; a land imbibed with myth, where 

every rock is alive and tells a story, where behind the veil 

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of cowboy movies and tourist trains, people still live the 

way they always have, shunning progress for tradition 

and the deep roots of the land itself. As we ride home, 

my guide, a young Navajo wrangler, sees me looking at 

the distant mesas and smiles. “It’s good medicine out 

here,” he says. The towering wind-sculpted stones of 

Monument Valley may be defeated monsters, but the 

Navajo still live on. 


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USA 

Arizona 

BARRINGER 

METEOR 

CRATER 

This crater is one of the world’s largest and 

best-preserved meteor-impact sites. With a 

diameter of 4,000ft and a depth of 550ft, this 

hole in the desert of Northern Arizona is big 

enough to hold more than 70,000 Olympicsize 

swimming pools. 

When the meteorite struck around 50,000 

years ago, it hit the Earth with a force greater 

than 20 million tonnes of TNT — 1,000 times 

more powerful than the atomic bomb that 

destroyed Hiroshima. The ground melted 

instantly, dark clouds rained molten iron 

and nickel from the sky. While other impact 

sites around the world have eroded over 

time, Arizona’s dry climate has preserved 

Barringer’s in near-pristine condition. It’s 

like looking at that moment of violence 

frozen in time. 

But it’s remarkable for other reasons. For 

decades after its discovery, in 1903, no one was 

quite sure what had caused it. Then, in 1960, 

geologist Eugene M Shoemaker discovered 

two rare types of silica at the site that can 

only be created under immense pressure. It 

was the first time a meteor crater had been 

conclusively proven to exist and it opened 

the door to a flood of scientific discoveries, 

from what happened to the dinosaurs to what 

caused those dents in the Moon. 

In 2015, an 1,800ft-wide meteorite 

— roughly 100 times bigger than the rock 

that caused the Barringer crater — missed by 

a hair’s breadth. To stand on the rim is to see 

with your own eyes the awesome forces that 

have forged our world and be humbled by the 

unfathomable power of the universe. 

550ft 

North Carolina & Tennessee 

GREAT SMOKY 

MOUNTAINS 


THE DEPTH 

OF THE 

BARRINGER 

METEOR CRATER 

Newfound Gap, 

Great Smoky Mountains 


New England gets the press, but the Great Smoky 

Mountains, on the border of North Carolina and 

Tennessee, offer an arguably better autumn spectacle. 

In late September, bright hues of red, yellow and purple 

spill down from the mountaintops in rolling waves. And, 

because of the varied elevation within the park, the peak 

brightness lasts longer than elsewhere in the country. It’s 

a great landscape to explore too, with some of the best 

woodland hiking in the States, including sections of the 

famed Appalachian Trail. 


USA 

Florida 

D R Y 

TORTUGAS 

This archipelago of pristine coral reefs 

and sparkling waters lies 70 miles off Key 

West in the Gulf of Mexico. Celebrating 

the 25th anniversary of its designation as a 

national park this year, the Dry Tortugas are 

America’s premier snorkelling and scubadiving 

location, with abundant marine life: 

2,200 

swim with sea turtles, explore shipwrecks 

and search for manatees hiding among the 

coral gardens. 

sq miles 

THE SIZE OF THE ATCHAFAYALA, 

THE LARGEST RIVER SWAMP 

IN THE US 

Louisiana 

ATCHAFAYALA 

SWAMP 

FROM LEFT: View from 

Fort Jefferson across 

the Gulf of Mexico, 

Dry Tortugas National 

Park; Atchafalaya Basin 

Landing & Marina, 

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana; 

leaping into a crater lake, 

Crater Lake National Park 

The Everglades, in South Florida, are rightly 

famous, but they’re not the country’s only 

wonder-filled wetland. Atchafalaya Swamp, 

deep in Louisiana’s backcountry, 100 miles east 

of New Orleans, is the largest river swamp in 

America, a million-acre wilderness filled with 

enormous alligators and the ghostly stumps of a 

vast cypress forest. 

But it’s the people that make it special. 

This is Cajun country; the seafood is always 

fresh and old Acadian jigs play all night 

long. Take an airboat through the narrow 

bayous, trawl for crawfish or just sit back 

with a cold beer, like the Cajuns do, and let 

the sparkle of the swamp cure you of the ills 

of the civilised world. 


USA 

Oregon 

CRATER 

LAKE 

The Great Lakes may win on size, but 

for beauty, Crater Lake, in Oregon, is 

the country’s best by far. At the centre 

of a volcanic crater, the vast cobalt pool 

reaches a depth of 1,943ft, making it the 

country’s deepest lake, and as it’s fed 

only by rain and snow, it’s one of the most 

pristine on Earth too. Hike the rim, jump 

in the ice-cold waters and watch the sunset 

reflected in its mirror-still surface. 

THE DEEPEST 

POINT OF 

CRATER 

LAKE, MAKING 

IT NORTH 

AMERICA’S 

DEEPEST LAKE 

1,943ft 

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; GETTY 


USA 

Wyoming 

THE TETONS 

The sharp peaks of the Tetons, which rise up to 

13,775ft, are some of the most striking, and photogenic, 

mountain ranges in the world. Forget the Rockies — if 

you want colossal scale and drama, picture-postcard 

peaks unencumbered by foothills and some of the 

steepest and most stunning hiking in the country, come 

to the Tetons. 

13,775ft 

THE HEIGHT OF GRAND TETON 

Alaska 

PRINCE 

WILLIAM 

SOUND 

Kayaking out of a blue ice 

cave near the port of Valdez, 

Prince William Sound 

ABOVE: Sunrise at the 

Oxbow Bend of the Snake 

River, Wyoming 

Celebrate the 150th anniversary of 

Alaska this year with a cruise along 

Prince William Sound, one of the 

most spectacular coastal areas 

in the country. Covering close to 

15,000sq miles, this vast maritime 

wilderness is home to the largest 

collection of tidewater glaciers in 

the world; if you want to see rivers 

of ice crashing into the sea, to hear 

the crack of enormous icebergs 

breaking into the bay, then this is 

the place to come. 

But there’s much more too: 

orcas and humpback whales cross 

these icy waters, sea lions and 

porpoises play by the shore; there 

are enormous fjords, small fishing 

villages and fascinating First 

Nation heritage on the shore. Prince 

William Sound is what Alaska 

is all about: wild, dramatic and 

teeming with life. 

150 // THE APPROXIMATE 

NUMBER OF GLACIERS IN 

PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND 

— KNOWN FOR ITS HIGH 

CONCENTRATION OF 

TIDEWATER GLACIERS 

IMAGES: GETTY 


LIFE 

ON 

THE 

HEEL 

The spiky heel of Italy’s boot, 

the Puglia region is a land in a 

sumptuous time warp — where 

sleepy villages are silent except 

for birdsong; where roads wind 

through centuries-old olives 

groves; and where locals perform 

miracles with ingredients plucked 

from that famous terra rossa 

Words JULIA BUCKLEY 

Photographs N ICO AVELARDI 



PUGLIA 

PREVIOUS PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 

Slow-cooked octopus at La Torretta del Pescatore, 

in Monopoli; alley in Monopoli’s old town; local 

man, Nardò 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Bar, Borgo Egnazia; 

orecchiette pasta drying outdoors in the San Nicola 

district of Bari; orecchiette maker in Bari’s old town 


PUGLIA 

It doesn’t look like a beach you’d stop for. Not at first glance; not at third, 

either. In fact, in the six years I’ve been visiting Puglia I haven’t pulled over 

here once. Instead of sand, there’s jagged limestone. Instead of lapping 

gently, the sea hammers on the rock. Then there are those walls on the other 

side — half fallen-down, and forbidding. I once lived further up the coast, 

you see, where the Adriatic sashays gracefully onto sands as manicured as an 

A-lister’s fingers. So I’ve always come to Puglia not for the coastline but for 

the food, the conical trullo houses and the graceful white-stone hill towns 

of the Itria Valley, the best-known part of the region. But when Elena, my 

hotel concierge, had revealed the beach’s secrets, I was forced to reassess my 

priorities. That basin where the sea swirls against the rock? It was a Roman 

harbour. Those rectangular holes in the tufa? Two-thousand-four-hundredyear-old 

Messapian tombs. The gargantuan wall is Byzantine; the red dots in 

every rockpool, shards of Roman pottery. 

When I’d booked my stay at Borgo Egnazia, I’d envisioned a generic luxury 

break — a soft bed and swish views. But it turns out there’s more to this five-star 

hotel than social cachet (this is where Justin Timberlake married Jessica Biel). 

For starters, everything’s locally sourced and focused, from the food to the spa 

treatments — and the resort itself is a reimagining of a Pugliese borgo (walled 

town). But, as Elena had explained, Borgo Egnazia’s real draw is what’s hinted 

at in its name: Egnazia, the ancient city that put this area on the map, lying the 

other side of an adjacent golf course. 

And this ‘beach’ — these rocks, rather, from which fishermen hunt sea urchins 

as prickly as the limestone — is Egnazia’s old harbour, founded in the Bronze Age, 

then used by the Messapians, Romans, Goths, Lombards and Byzantines, before 

being abandoned in medieval times. 

The next day, I set out from Borgo Egnazia’s beguiling sister hotel, Masseria 

Cimino — accommodation wings wrapped round an 18th-century masseria 

farmhouse. Past the vegetable garden and down the olive-lined path, I skirt 

another gargantuan wall — the defensive perimeter of ancient Egnazia, it turns 

out, encircling the city 1.5 miles from its centre. 

I follow it down a narrow track, past fields where lettuces and fennel plants 

are laid out like ribbons beneath centuries-old olive trees and around ancient 

stone structures. Birdsong is all that encroaches on the sound of the sea. Ten 

minutes later, I’m at Egnazia Archaelogical Park, where a grand museum is 

flanked by the ruins of a Messapian necropolis one side, Roman Egnazia the 

other: complete with forum, amphitheatre and — curling through ancient 

bathhouses — a section of the cobbled Appian Way, which ran from Rome to 

Brindisi. I cross the road to those Byzantine walls, a citadel on the headland. To 

my right is that harbour; in front lies Albania. Walking back, I realise the air is 

scented with fennel. 

All Italians are proud of their region, of course, but the Pugliese are viscerally 

so. Meet one abroad, and they’ll talk of the almost physical pain they feel in exile 

from their land. The famous terra rossa (‘red earth’) — coloured by limestone 

deposits — runs in their blood. Much of the intensity is down to their contadino 

heritage — the word means ‘peasant’ in Italian, but here it’s used with pride, not 

pejoratively. And that pride shines through in the food. 

“We have a cucina povera — a cuisine based on poverty,” says Carlo Natale, the 

chef/owner of Trattoria L’Elfo, in Bari. On my first night, he’d offered me just two 

dinner options: riso patate e cozze — rice, potatoes and mussels sautéed together 

— or pasta with plain tomato sauce. My face had fallen — not even spaghetti 

alle vongole? — but the meal was incredible. “We’re magicians,” Carlo told me 

afterwards. “With a little, we create a lot. Our culinary heritage may be the 

poorest in Italy, but taste-wise it’s the richest.” 


PUGLIA 


PUGLIA 

Salento appears 

stuck in a time 

warp — it’s a 

place where 

towns fall silent 

at noon, where 

the air swells 

with birdsong 

FROM LEFT: Masseria Cimino; east coast of the 

Salento Peninsula 


PUGLIA 

Each area of Puglia — every town, even — has its own cuisine. Historically 

poor, Bari’s is basic. At Monopoli, a medieval fishing port 25 miles south, I find 

an equally simple culinary tradition, scooped straight from the sea. Bream 

carpaccio, tuna tartare and slow-cooked octopus that falls apart on the fork: 

for me it’s nirvana, at La Torretta del Pescatore, it’s just lunch. The seafood was 

plucked from the sea that morning and jazzed up with little more than pureed 

capers, buffalo mozzarella cream and fried wild onions. There’s no fancy fusion, 

here. “The only thing we mix is tradition with seasonality,” says owner Piero Vitti. 

Tradition and seasonality: adjectives that describe Puglia to a tee. Further 

south, at Torre Canne, Al Buco opened in the 1970s as a fishmonger’s; today, 

the founders’ grandson serves me in his restaurant cantilevered over the sea. 

He brings an antipasto — 15 plates of fish and shellfish cooked in every way 

imaginable, and they’re only the starter. 

Labour of love 

Here on the heel, life follows Mother Nature’s calendar. Last time I was at Pietro 

D’Amico’s olive press, it was October and I’d popped in to say hi. Big mistake: it 

was packed with locals hauling in crates of olives they’d handpicked, and Pietro 

was nowhere to be seen. 

But six weeks later, harvest is over and he has time to show me round. They 

produce nine oils here, including Lacrima (‘Tear’), made from a secret blend of 

olives, hand-crushed and left for 30 minutes, until the pulp “weeps” oil, which 

pools on the surface and is bottled by hand. 

It’s a labour of love for Pietro; his family has done this since his great-greatgrandfather’s 

time. How amazing to be a fifth-generation business (daughter 

Vita is his deputy), I coo, dipping bread in oil so fresh it tastes spicy. “Yes, how 

amazing,” he says gravely. “But what a responsibility.” Puglia’s struggling with an 

olive blight that’s the talk of Italy (further down the heel, I’ll drive past skeleton 

groves, branches twisted in horror at their leafless nakedness) and Pietro needs to 

keep his 6,000-odd trees — most of which are centuries-old — healthy. 

“I do it for love,” he says. “Obviously, it makes me money, but it also gives me joy 

to walk through my fields. I’m rooted to this terra rossa, to the green silver.” Back 

home, opening my bottles of ‘green silver’, I can almost taste that pull of the land. 

A stranger’s love for Puglia is nothing new. Foreigners have been drawn here 

since time immemorial. Where other Italian regions have Roman ruins and 

Renaissance architecture, Puglia’s landscape — its macchia (thickets of wild 

plants such as carob, pine, myrtle, mastic and rocket) interspersed with olive 

groves and vegetable fields — is dotted with prehistoric dolmens and menhirs. 

The coastline is speared with watchtowers — centuries-old defences against the 

outsiders who’ve always migrated here. Some came in peace, like the eighthcentury 

Basilian monks fleeing Jerusalem, who dug underground churches. 

Others came to conquer, like the Lombards and Saracens. 

All left their mark. The Normans, their architecture: simple buildings carved 

from the local stone — creamy, crumbly pietra leccese and hard white carparo. 

The Byzantines, their churches, with colourful frescoes of almond-eyed saints. 

The Greeks, their language — south of Lecce is Grecia Salentina, an area where 

the Griko dialect is spoken, a legacy of the Greeks who settled there in the eighth 

century. In Calimera (meaning ‘good morning’ in Greek), I walk along streets that 

feel vaguely Cycladic — low houses, pretty courtyards lurking behind dour walls 

— to the park, where an ancient Greek sculpture takes pride of place. 

It was sent from Athens in 1960 as a symbol of ancestry. ‘You’re not a foreigner 

in Calimera’, reads the plaque. And it’s true. At Caffè Vittoria La Rina, on the 

main square, I ask about Griko and owner Tonia Conversano beckons me over 

for coffee. Only the elderly really speak it now, she says, as her daughter recites a 


PUGLIA 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP 

LEFT: Pruning an olive 

tree in Pietro D’Amico’s 

groves; Pietro D’Amico’s 

olive press; squid ink 

risotto with pea puree, 

Borgo Egnazia 


PUGLIA 

traditional Griko song. But as the dialect fades, what remains in Grecìa Salentina 

is the atmosphere the Greeks must have encountered when they arrived as 

foreigners 1,300 years ago. 

“You’re at home, here, whoever you are,” says Tonia, before inviting me to a 

“party” at 6pm. With two hours to while away, I go hunting for dolmens. I find two 

of the megalithic tombs outside nearby Melendugno, sitting quietly in adjacent 

olive groves. Further on, in Martano, a prehistoric menhir (standing stone) towers 

over the suburban street that’s grown up around it. 

At 6pm, I return to Calimera to find the entire town crowded within the piazza, 

watching a procession — headed by a life-size statue of the Madonna — snaking 

through the streets. “Did you like it?” asks Tonia eagerly when I say goodbye. 

Small-town life is far from insular here on the Salento Peninsula. 

And it’s the small-town life — deeply rooted in Puglia’s terra rossa — that I’m 

most drawn to, here on the heel. Salento appears stuck in a Fellini-esque time warp 

— it’s a place where towns fall silent at noon, where the air swells with birdsong, 

where roads wind through groves of centuries-old olives so gnarled that each 

seems caught in an eternal ballet pose, where every field seems to have a dolmen, 

hand-dug crypt or prehistoric cave lurking in its wildflower-carpeted midst. 

Even in Lecce — stately Lecce with its frothy baroque facades — my hotel feels 

more like a home. La Fiermontina is dedicated to the sibling owners’ beloved 

grandmother. Its walls are hung with the pair’s art; dinners are served in the 

living room. Chef Simone Solido learned to cook by watching his nonna, he says, 

as he leads me past an olive-flanked pool to his herb garden: a row of pots on top 

of the ancient city walls. It’s not your average five-star hotel, but then, Puglia does 

tourism differently. Perhaps it’s the millennia-old culture of accommodating 

foreigners. Perhaps it’s because tourism developed relatively late here and 

was woven into the existing fabric of the region, rather than catered to with a 

purpose-built infrastructure. For example, the masseria hotel trend began when 

Marisa Melpignano, Borgo Egnazia’s owner, opened her farmhouse — first to 

friends, then to outsiders. 

Meanwhile, Puglia is also big on alberghi diffusi (‘scattered hotels’) — where 

accommodation is spread across a number of disused buildings rather than being 

based in a single property. At Villaggio Vecchia Mottola, which hosts guests in 

former contadino housing in the medieval hill town of Mottola, I check in at the 

main square, sleep in a duplex studio two streets away, and breakfast at a nearby 

bar full of locals necking pre-work cappuccinos. 

This is no ordinary B&B — it’s your passport to becoming an honorary local. 

Owner Osvaldo Zazzara is prone to kissing guests who appear too reserved on 

arrival. “I didn’t do it to you,” he says, “because you didn’t look like you needed it.” 

That’s because I’ve spent the past week in Puglia, I tell him. It’s been seven days 

of nonstop chatting: to priests who unlock closed chapels when I ask politely; to the 

signora from my Bari B&B who gave me a hand-stitched tablecloth as a parting gift; 

to Niccolò, the editor of a newsletter in Nardò, who met me for a coffee and ended 

up squiring me round the countryside, showing me hidden crypts and persuading a 

guy on his lunch break to open up his 17th-century underground olive press. 

I had thought there’d be little more to Nardò than the baroque architecture 

that makes it a mini Lecce. But the next morning, Niccolò introduces me to 

archaeologist Dr Filomena Ranaldo. She tells me about Porto Selvaggio, a 

nearby natural park whose eight cliffside caves were once home to prehistoric 

man. Excavations are ongoing and there are plans to open a museum in Nardò 

showcasing the findings later this year and to run guided tours of one of the caves 

in 2018. What’s been unearthed so far has been extraordinary. The 45,000-yearold 

teeth found here point to Porto Selvaggio being the earliest-known home of 

Homo sapiens in Europe. They weren’t the first to dwell here, though. 

From Otranto, 

the road cleaves 

to the Macchiarippled 

coastline 

winding through 

tiny fishing villages. 

It’s Puglia at its 

finest; unspoiled, 

unassuming, utterly 

spectacular 

Beach on the coastal drive from Otranto to Santa 

Maria di Leuca 


PUGLIA 

The Rupestrian 

church of San 

Nicola, part of 

the Grotte di 

Dio, Mottola 

The excavations have confirmed that Neanderthals probably lived here 

as far back as 120,000 years ago. What’s also clear is that this land of 

canyons and ravines has been inhabited ever since. At Massafra, near 

Mottola, people still live in cave homes carved out of the limestone. 

Near Egnazia, I visit Lama d’Antico, a tiny canyon hollowed out 

by the stream running through it. Stray cats wind round my legs, 

purring, as archaeologist Roberto Rotondo and Marisa Melpignano 

(who’s financed restoration work here) lead me into caves that were 

inhabited from AD 900-1300. There are ceilings blackened from fire 

smoke, ‘cupboards’ carved into the walls, and two churches; their 

fragile columns sculpted from the canyon walls. 

At Mottola, I visit the Grotte di Dio (‘Caves of God’): four churches 

chiselled into the walls of a ravine, covered wall to wall with 

Byzantine frescoes still as bright as the day they were painted; 

the saints’ gaze following me as I walk around, my eyes watering 

in astonishment. 

And on the day I finally make it to the tip of Italy’s heel, I stop at 

the Zinzulusa Cave, on the eastern coast. The guide weaves me past 

stalactites and stalagmites to a guano-spattered cave, set 150 metres 

into the cliffside where, 10,000 years ago, Paleolithic man set up 

home, overlooking the turquoise Adriatic. 

I’d driven here from Lecce, hitting the sea at Otranto. From there, 

the road cleaves to the macchia-rippled coastline, winding through 

tiny fishing villages. The drive is Puglia at its finest; unspoiled, 

unassuming, utterly spectacular — Amalfi without the attitude. 

One minute, the Adriatic is sparkling 200ft beneath me; the next, it’s 

twinkling through the car window. 

Puglia finishes at Santa Maria di Leuca, Italy’s most southeasterly 

point. This is where, legend has it, Saint Peter landed on his way to 

Rome; the temple that once stood here was converted into a church. 

From my vantage point on a prickly pear-studded cliff, I turn towards 

the sea and watch it blush as the sun sets. De Finibus Terrae, the 

Romans called this place (‘the end of the land’) — the last of that living 

red earth; and the point at which the Adriatic and Ionian come together. 

I look closer — at lines shimmering in the pink water, streaks of 

tension where two currents collide. Pint-size boats hover between 

them — it’s a prime site for fishing, this spot where two seas and 

multiple cultures have been shuffling together for millennia, the 

mystical landscape drawing them in like iron filings. 

“Did you feel it?” Niccolò will say later, when I tell him about Leuca. 

“Did you really feel the land?” And I tell him I’ll never forget. 

ESSENTIALS 

Getting there & around 

Ryanair flies year-round to Bari and Brindisi from 

Stansted. Airlines running summer services to Bari 

include EasyJet and British Airways from Gatwick 

and Ryanair from Liverpool. Summer services to 

Brindisi include Ryanair from Manchester and British 

Airways from Heathrow. ryanair.com easyjet.com 

ba.com trenitalia.com 

AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 3h. 

Public transport is limited — unless you’re sticking to 

the cities, hiring a car with GPS is essential. 

When to go 

Puglia has a typically Southern European climate: 

summer is often baking, winter mild, spring and 

autumn warm. Avoid August, when Italians holiday 

en masse and traffic is a nightmare. 

Places mentioned 

La Torretta del Pescatore. latorrettadelpescatore.com 

Al Buco. ristorantealbuco.it 

Il Frantolio D’Amico Pietro. ilfrantolio.it 

Egnazia. egnaziaonline.it 

Lama d’Antico. lamadantico.it 

Grotte di Dio. mottolaturismo.it 

Grotta Zinzulusa. www.grottazinzulusa.it 

Where to stay 

Borgo Egnazia. borgoegnazia.com 

Masseria Cimino. masseriacimino.com 

La Fiermontina. lafiermontina.com 

Villaggio Vecchia Mottola. vecchiamottola.com 

Angelo Custode. nardosalento.com 

B&B Corte Zeuli. cortezeuli.it 

More info 

viaggiareinpuglia.it 

How to do it 

CLASSIC COLLECTION HOLIDAYS offers seven nights 

in Puglia, including three nights at Borgo Egnazia, 

British Airways flights and seven days’ car hire from 

£1,189 per person. 

classic-collection.co.uk 

ADRIATIC 

SEA 

Bari 

Monopoli 

EGNAZIA TORRE CANNE 

VALLE D'ITRIA 

Brindisi 

Taranto 

P e n 

S a l 

Golf 

of 

Taranto 

i n 

e n 

s u 

Nardò 

t o 

l 

a 

ITALY 

Lecce 

Calimera 

Martano 

20 Miles 

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER 


OF THE 

IMPENETRABLE PARK 

Intelligent, gentle, vulnerable. No one who 

looks into a gorilla’s eyes can remain 

unchanged. It’s a mind-blowing experience, 

but in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National 

Park, it’s one you may have to work for 

Words EMMA GREGG 


IMAGE: ALAMY 


UGANDA 

’m expecting my first sighting of a 

mountain gorilla to be a hint of a black or 

silver coat, glimpsed in the forest shadows, 

somewhere far in the distance. But, it’s 

not like that at all. 

The trackers whisper that they’re close. 

“How close?” 

Seeing that I’m still fumbling with my 

cameras, they answer with a gentle 

‘are-you-ready?’ smile. Then they part the 

foliage like a curtain, and there he is. An 

adolescent male, the size of a small 

armchair, in plain view, right in front of us. Just sitting 

there. Munching. 

I’m astonished to find myself almost within touching 

distance. These days, nobody gets to do an Attenborough, 

lolling in the greenery while mountain gorillas make 

themselves at home around them. Since the BBC filmed 

those unforgettable sequences for Life on Earth almost 

30 years ago, experts have agreed that humans and 

gorillas should remain at least 23ft apart to protect these 

critically endangered animals from stress-related illness 

and viral infections. Glancing 

behind me, I try to reverse, 

but the blackback, relaxed in 

human company, simply 

edges his handsome 

shoulders forward, intent on 

plucking the juiciest 

myrianthus leaves he can 

find. He clearly hasn’t read 

the guidelines. 

“This is Kaganga,” murmurs 

tracker Elisha Kastama. “His 

name means big and strong.” 

It’s a fine name indeed. 

Mountain gorillas are a 

sub-species of the eastern 

gorilla, the world’s largest 

primate, and Kaganga, when 

fully grown, will weigh more 

than a motorbike. I gingerly 

move away, keen to give him space. It’s time to meet 

the rest of the family. 

Ten million years have passed since the common 

ancestors of humans and gorillas roamed forests like 

these, but we still share 98% of our DNA and echo each 

other in looks and habits, from our sociable lifestyles to 

the way we examine our fingernails. The remaining 2% 

covers specific adaptations, such as the layer of 

reinforcing keratin that allows gorillas to walk on their 

knuckles. Reflecting on his own early encounters, George 

Schaller, the naturalist whose pioneering study inspired 

Dian Fossey to dedicate her life to the cause, described 

his profound sense of kinship and respect, writing, ‘No 

one who looks into a gorilla’s eyes — intelligent, gentle, 

vulnerable — can remain unchanged.’ Today, I’m gripped 

by similar emotions. As the curious youngsters, peaceful 

females and Bakwate the alpha male, a magnificent 

silverback, emerge and settle down to browse, the more 

accepted and humbled I feel. 

Part of the joy of being here, deep in the tangled folds 

of southwest Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National 

Park, is the sheer relief of making it. Bwindi is home to 

almost half the world’s population of mountain gorillas 

and around 45% of these — 13 groups — have become 

Then they part the 

foliage like a curtain, 

and there he is. An 

adolescent male, the 

size of a small 

armchair. Just sitting 

there. Munching 

habituated to visitors through the quiet daily presence of 

rangers over several years. For the tourists who now pay 

US$600 (£480) to track gorillas, sightings are pretty much 

guaranteed, but there’s no guarantee that it’ll be easy. 

Yesterday, at a luxurious eco-lodge near the park 

headquarters in Buhoma, I met a party of well-dressed 

American retirees enjoying an après-trek lunch. They 

were beaming. After a straightforward hike, unspoilt by 

mud, heat or bloodthirsty insects, they found their 

gorillas within a few hundred yards. Yet, for others, the 

experience can be tougher. Bwindi is slightly lower in 

altitude than Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, 

Africa’s better known gorilla-watching destination, but 

its terrain can be exhausting. If the group you’re seeking 

has moved to a remote part of its range, you must hike for 

hours through a steep, roadless maze of thickly vegetated 

ridges and valleys for your precious 60-minute audience. 

It’s an adventure for some, but an ordeal for others, and 

once it’s over, there’s no helicopter rescue for the 

fit-but-footsore — everyone has to hike back again. 

So, when I hear I’m visiting the Oruzogo group, it feels 

like the short straw. The Uganda Wildlife Authority 

(UWA) describes their patch 

as ‘challenging’ and to get 

there, I must set off before 

dawn. Little do I know, as I 

shake myself awake, that the 

group has a secret I wouldn’t 

want to miss for the world. 

My journey begins with a 

drive along the park’s 

northern boundary. The 

mountain road from Buhoma 

to Ruhija is newly surfaced, 

one of the many changes 

brought about since gorilla 

tourism commenced in 1993. 

Below the once-treacherous 

hairpin bends is a patchwork 

of smallholdings, quilted 

with bananas, sweet potatoes 

and tea. As the sun comes up, 

the villagers are already at work. 

Our pre-trek instructions are part military-style 

briefing, part pep talk. “We’re tracking gorillas, but we’re 

also protecting them,” says Stephen Migyisha, our guide. 

Like all the UWA rangers, he’s wearing dark khaki 

fatigues with the Ugandan flag on one sleeve. “I want you 

to be prepared, physically and mentally. At the moment, 

you may look smart, but don’t be surprised if, at the end 

of the day, that’s all changed.” 

A neat line of freelance porters are waiting at the 

trailhead. Most of them are students supplementing their 

studies; all have been vetted for their skills. When Stephen 

asks if I’d like to hire someone, I don’t hesitate; but when 

Divotah Katusime steps forward and introduces herself, 

I pause. At barely five feet tall, will she cope? Loaded with 

cameras, water and lunch, my bag weighs a ton. I needn’t 

have worried, though. To demonstrate her muscle power, 

she practically pulls me over. 

Right from the start, Divotah proves a godsend. On the 

steep descents, she checks I’m not slipping; on the climbs 

she lends an arm; and, when Stephen and the armed 

scouts abandon the path and start hacking through the 

forest with their pangas, she’s there to untangle me from 

stray branches and deflect me from stinging vines. 


UGANDA 

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The treetops of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park 

CLOCKWISE: Buhoma Lodge, an eco-lodge near the park headquarters; Uganda 

Wildlife Authority rangers comparing notes before a gorilla trek; handmade clothing 

for sale at Ride For A Woman craft cooperative; hiking the River Ivi Trail from 

Buhoma to Nteka and Nkuringo 

IMAGES: EMMA GREGG 


UGANDA 

As the curious 

youngsters, peaceful 

females and Bakwate 

the alpha male, a 

magnificent silverback, 

emerge and settle 

down to browse, the 

more accepted and 

humbled I feel 

Mountain gorilla in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park 


UGANDA 

IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK 


UGANDA 

FROM TOP: Tea plantations 

buffering the national 

park keep gorillas at bay; 

male mountain gorilla 

in Bwindi Impenetrable 


OPPOSITE: Uganda 

Wildlife Authority ranger 

Augustine Muhangi and 

Gorilla Doctors field vet 

Fred Nizeyimana examine 

the gorilla hairs found in 

their mountain nests 


UGANDA 

IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK; EMMA GREGG 

Meanwhile, Stephen keeps one ear on the radio. With 

each exchange with the trackers, who left 90 minutes 

before us, he accelerates. The gorillas are moving 

uncharacteristically fast; the pace is relentless. We’re 

battling the heat, but adrenaline and anticipation push 

us on. And then, at last, three hours into our trek, we 

catch up with the trackers. Handing our hiking sticks to 

our porters, we prepare to meet the family. 

The key thing the trackers don’t tell us at this point, 

before they part the foliage to reveal Kaganga, is that 

they’re not entirely sure what to expect. They’ve seen 

some blood on the ground and are concerned that a 

gorilla might be wounded. 

One by one, members of the 17-strong group emerge 

from the dense bush — youngsters, females and the 

alpha male Bakwate, sitting confidently in the hot sun. 

A pair of researchers from the Max Planck Institute for 

Evolutionary Anthropology in Leipzig, which has been 

studying Bwindi’s gorillas since 1998, take notes. Nothing 

appears to be amiss. 

Suddenly, towards the end of our hour, Elisha and his 

colleague Stanley Bashobeza gesture urgently for us to 

come over. They point to a patch of deep shade under a 

shrub around 30ft away, where a female gorilla called 

Nyakina is reclining on her back, hugging something to 

her chest. The ‘something’ moves. Could it be…? 

With eyes on stalks, we watch as the newest Oruzogo 

member squirms its tiny, sticky body. Born just before 

we arrived, the baby gorilla is an incredible surprise 

— even to the trackers and researchers who see the group 

every day. Since the leaf-eating gorillas are naturally 

rotund, pregnancy can be hard to spot; the only clue to 

Nyakina’s condition was that she hadn’t been climbing 

much in recent days. 

“We’ve never seen one this tiny,” says Elisha. “Normally, 

the mother gives birth at night, then hides for a while. 

But Nyakina is very confident. It’s not her first. And she’s 

always been very friendly.” 

To prove it, Nyakina gets up and moves a few paces 

towards us, then sits between two youngsters who watch, 

intrigued, as she delicately cleans the newborn and offers 

them parts of the placenta. It’s as if she’s introducing the 

new baby to the toddlers — and she considers us to be 

honorary toddlers, too. 

On the trail 

Miraculously for a sub-species with a birth interval of 

three to five years, mountain gorillas are the only great 

apes whose numbers are increasing. However, like all too 

many endangered animals, they’re being hemmed in by 

human population growth. Their two remaining 

strongholds, Bwindi and the Virunga Massif (which 

covers parts of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic 

Republic of Congo), are like islands in the sky, smaller 

than the Isle of Wight, separated by 15 miles of 

intensively cultivated farmland. Before long, they may 

contain as many gorillas as they can handle. 

Bwindi’s precious forest habitat is far better protected 

now than it was between 1902, when science first 

‘discovered’ mountain gorillas, and 1991, when it was 

declared a national park. Tourism has helped save it — at 

a price. Safeguarding gorillas is a complex process which, 

controversially, limits or bans traditional forest 

activities, from collecting firewood to living among the 

trees, as in the case of the Batwa, a tribe formerly known 

as Pygmies. What’s more, gorillas that have been 

deliberately trained to suppress their natural fear of 

humans don’t always make the best neighbours. 

As I stroll through the leafy grounds of my eco-lodge 

in Buhoma, just outside the national park, an 

unmistakeable pile of dung stops me in my tracks. 

Twitching vegetation confirms my suspicion — gorillas 

have come to visit. My heart thumps. While it’s 

extremely rare for gorillas to attack humans, I’ve no wish 

to disturb them and hastily back away. 

While gorillas in the garden may be a novelty, gorillas 

munching crops is no joke. An adult male can eat 30kg of 

plants each day. Bwindi’s smallholders have had to 

develop intriguing solutions to this: buffering the park 

with tea plantations works well — it’s a useful cash crop, 

and gorillas seem to hate the stuff — and Hugo, short for 

Human-Gorilla Conflict Resolution, Bwindi’s crack team 

of volunteer gorilla-scarers, is effective, too. 

So much for keeping gorillas inside the park. Keeping 

local people out, to prevent disturbance and the spread 

of infections, is a more delicate matter. “It’s not just that 

people here are poor,” says Buhoma-based wildlife vet 

Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka of Conservation Through 

Public Health (CTPH). “Some people argue that the 

benefits of conservation — gorilla trekking fees, job 

opportunities — aren’t being fairly shared. So, they feel 

justified in entering the forest illegally to take wood or 

set snares for duikers [antelopes].” 

CTPH tries to adjust the balance through healthcare 

and education programmes and has launched a new 

social enterprise, Gorilla Conservation Coffee, through 

which ex-poachers now make a decent living from 

growing coffee beans, which are sold in safari lodges 

all over Uganda. 

In all the villages I visit around Bwindi, I discover a 

similar sense of purpose. Some community-run craft 


UGANDA 

IMAGES: EMMA GREGG 

shops and activities are still rough around the edges, but 

plans are afoot to help them mature via a ‘Gorilla- 

Friendly’ accreditation scheme. The Batwa Experience, a 

demonstration of barkcloth-making, fire-making and 

honey-collecting by Batwa cultural performers 

determined to keep their ancestral forest skills alive, 

turns out to be a highlight of my trip. 

While my first gorilla encounter was supremely 

satisfying, that one fleeting hour leaves many wildlife 

enthusiasts wanting more. With this in mind, UWA now 

offers an in-depth alternative, the Gorilla Habituation 

Experience. For US$1,500 (£1,200) per person, four 

visitors at a time can join a team of trackers, scouts and 

rangers as they follow one of two semi-habituated groups 

through the forest in southern Bwindi, monitoring the 

gorillas’ behaviour, collecting data and helping them get 

used to humans. Once 

they’re fully habituated, 

the activity will 

continue as a 

With a birth 

interval of three 

to five years, 

mountain gorillas 

are the only 

great apes whose 

numbers are rising 

demonstration of 

research techniques. 

I cross the park to 

Nkuringo via the River 

Ivi Trail, a beautiful 

nine-mile hike through 

towering mahogany 

trees and giant ferns, 

then, on a cool, misty 

morning, continue 

south to meet the team 

at Rushaga. “On your 

trek to the Oruzogo 

group, there was an 

advance party,” says 

assistant warden 

Geoffrey Twinomuhangi. “Today, we’re all in it together.” 

I’m in capable hands. My guide for the day is UWA ranger 

Augustine Muhangi and we’re joined by field vet Fred 

Nizeyimana of the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, 

aka Gorilla Doctors. 

As we enter the forest fringes, tinker birds chime 

peacefully and a colourful turaco glides overhead. 

Beneath the trees, the air is fresh with the scent of wild 

bracken and herbs. Augustine is a mine of information. 

As we walk, he points out some of the details they look 

for on habituation expeditions, from fresh elephant 

dung, a clear sign of potential danger, to half-stripped 

urera shoots, indicating gorillas. 

We turn off the path and wade downhill through 

chest-high foliage. Below, we find the spot where the 

Bikingi group was last seen, and the real tracking begins. 

A subtle trail of bent vegetation leads us to the camp they 

made last night, each adult gorilla having folded leaves 

and branches into a springy mattress. We don surgical 

masks and the team demonstrate how, during a census, 

they identify each nest by its proportions and what the 

occupants left behind — grey hairs from the silverback, 

black hairs from a baby cuddled up to its mother, dung in 

sizes which roughly indicate each animal’s age — before 

taking samples for DNA testing. 

Some nests are on the ground, others part-way up 

trees. “This can mean they were scanning their 

surroundings for danger,” says Fred, who’s alert to any 

indication of disturbance. Whether caused by disputes 

with rivals, fear of elephants or intimidation by duiker 


UGANDA 

ESSENTIALS 


Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways fly daily from 

Heathrow to Entebbe via Addis Ababa and Nairobi. 

ethiopianairlines.com kenya-airways.com 


Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is around 275 miles 

from Entebbe by road. Alternatively, fly from Entebbe 

to Kihihi (25 miles from Buhoma) or Kisoro (21 miles 

from Nkuringo) with Aerolink. aerolinkuganda.com 

When to go 

It’s possible to track gorillas at any time of year. Many 

visitors avoid the rainiest, muddiest months (Mar-May 

and Oct-Nov), so UWA may discount tracking permits 

from US$600 (£480) to $450 (£362) during this period. 

More info 

ugandawildlife.org 

visituganda.com 

Uganda (Bradt Travel Guides). RRP: £17.99 

Where to stay 

Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge. volcanoessafaris.com 

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge. wildplacesafrica.com 

Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge. 

mountaingorillalodge.com 

How to do it 

NATURAL WORLD SAFARIS offers an eight-day Gorilla 

Habituation Safari in Bwindi Impenetrable National 

Park, including full-board accommodation, domestic 

flights, private transfers, park fees, one gorilla tracking 

permit and one Gorilla Habituation Experience, from 

£5,035 per person, based on two sharing. 

naturalworldsafaris.com 

GANE AND MARSHALL offers a six-day private safari in 

Uganda, visiting Queen Elizabeth National Park and 

Bwindi, including full-board accommodation, domestic 

flights, private transfers, park fees and one gorilla 

tracking permit, from £2,355 per person, based on 

two sharing. ganeandmarshall.com 

PREVIOUS PAGE FROM 

TOP: At the Batwa 

Experience cultural 

perfomance an actor 

demonstrates the 

traditional method of 

smoking out bees and 

collecting honey; Nyakina 

and her newborn, the 

latest member of the 

Oruzogo group 

ABOVE: Bwindi farmlands 

poachers, stress makes gorillas susceptible to 

malnourishment, infections and parasites. 

“Habituated gorillas are increasing in numbers faster 

than non-habituated gorillas because they benefit from 

‘extreme conservation’ measures such as veterinary care. 

We monitor them closely. We don’t want people tracking 

sick animals,” he says. If a gorilla shows signs of illness, 

Fred will intervene by administering a shot. 

The gorillas are just a half-hour away. The first ones 

I see are a female, shyly eating mimulopsis leaves, and 

a youngster, high in a bendy sapling. Staring down with 

a giggling face, he makes a cute, high-pitched attempt 

at the pok-pok chestbeat which, coming from an adult, 

would send shivers down the spine. Delighted, we sit 

down to watch. 

The silverback, Rushenya, guards his family like a 

tank. When he decides it’s time to retreat under a shrub 

for a siesta, he makes it clear we’re not welcome to follow, 

rushing forward a few paces with a terrifying roar. 

Immediately, we follow the drill: freeze, look submissive, 

make reassuring mm-hmm noises. 

“For now, this is his character, and it’s not a bad thing,” 

says Augustine when I’ve caught my breath. “It’s easier to 

habituate the silverbacks who are confident than the 

ones who run away.” 

Moments later, we see a totally different side to 

Rushenya. Reclining in the shade, he’s every inch the 

tender and tolerant father, allowing a pair of boisterous 

infants to treat him as a trampoline. “He’s such a great 

dad,” says Augustine, admiringly. 

“Does watching this ever get old?” I ask. 

But, I already know the answer. The team are clearly as 

enraptured as I am. 

Buhoma 

5 Miles 

Kihihi 

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE 

NATIONAL PARK 

Kisoro 

Kisoro 

Entebbe 

UGANDA 

Kampala 

Lake 

Victoria 

Kabale 

IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER 



what lies 

beneath 

Shimmering sea life, bat-ridden caves, poisonous trees and 

ancient reptiles — beyond the beach bars in the Cayman 

Islands there’s a wilder experience waiting 

Words ZOE MCINTYRE 

IMAGE: GETTY 



A silhouette 

emerges 

From the 



Sapphire depths. 

IMAGES: GETTY; ZOE MCINTYRE 

PREVIOUS PAGE: Seven 

Mile Beach 

OPPOSITE: Hawksbill sea 

turtle, Little Cayman 

RIGHT: Grand Cayman 

beach 

Its distinctive shape comes into focus as it coasts languidly through 

tendrils of coral that whisker the seabed. Up at the surface, I wait 

patiently for the moment my new companion comes up for air. 

Suddenly it happens: two paddle-like flippers pull powerfully towards 

me. The world slows, I forget to breathe, and for a few stupefying 

seconds the hawksbill turtle and I are eye-to-eye. I take in its tapered 

head, bird-like beak and the intricate markings on its glossy carapace. 

The turtle eyes me with detached suspicion, pops its head up for a few 

gulps of air and disappears back down to the safety of the deep. 

I’m not the first to be awestruck by the turtle-rich waters of the 

Cayman Islands. When Christopher Columbus sailed past in 1503, 

he named the uninhabited archipelago Las Tortugas due to the 

sheer abundance of turtles in the surrounding waters. It was those 

same creatures that drew in passing sailors and buccaneers, who 

came here in search of fresh meat for their ravenous crews. Yet it was 

another animal that Francis Drake reported sightings of in 1586; ‘great 

serpents called Caymanas, large like lizards.’ 

Alas, this once-thriving crocodile was hunted 

to extinction, but not before bequeathing its 

name to the islands as its legacy. 

Under British rule since the 17th century, 

Cayman (never the Caymans) is now known 

more as a tax haven than marine hotspot — a 

place for stashing ill-gotten gains or, as John 

Grisham described it in his bestseller, The 

Firm, ‘sex, sun, rum, a little shopping’. Yet I’d 

heard of a wilder side — one of secret caves, 

endangered species and underwater marvels, 

and it was this aspect I hoped to uncover 

during a week-long island hop between the 

largest and liveliest island, Grand Cayman, 

and her petite sisters, Cayman Brac and 

Little Cayman. 

That said, it doesn’t take long for me to 

succumb to tropical cliche. At the ritzy bar 

of the Grand Marriott on Grand Cayman, I 

lounge poolside between bejewelled sunworshippers 

sporting itsy-bitsy bikinis and 

flawless nutmeg tans. Beyond spreads the 

West Coast’s famed Seven Mile Beach — a 

decadent stretch of powder-white sand, 

home to the island’s most luxurious resorts, 

where the glitterati congregate for their seeand-be-seen 

showdowns. I watch handsome 

guitarists serenading beautiful bodies 

against a lipstick-pink sunset, and feel only 

marginally guilty; it’s all quite hard to resist. 

The next morning, however, beach-lounger 

is exchanged for hire car as I explore the littledeveloped 

North Side. The island is barely 

20 miles from top to toe, but I take it slowly, 

Caribbean style. First comes George Town, 

the island’s capital, but hardly the shining 

financial hub I’d envisioned; more a series of 

colourful low-rises and gift shops huddled 

around a harbour. Leaving town, I join a road 

that hugs the shoreline and showcases the 

island’s subtler delights: candy-coloured 

bungalows on wooden stilts and locals selling 

coconuts along the roadside. Free-range 

chickens scratch along the sun-baked tarmac 

and every break in the vegetation reveals a 

stretch of dreamy coastline. 



Wickedly potent rum punches 

are served from a series 

of colourful shacks slung 

across a beachfront where 

bathers gorge on jerkseasoned 

mahi-mahi fish and 

sizzling conch fritters 

A rutted track strewn with nibbling goats leads to the starting 

point of the Mastic Trail. Here I meet Stuart, a National Trust guide, 

for a hike along this thoroughfare long used by islanders to herd 

cattle. Its boundaries of black mangroves and abandoned farmland 

bookend a slice of subtropical forest left undisturbed for some two 

million years, thriving in native flora. We follow a narrow boardwalk 

into a cocoon of thorny arches and three hours of immersive nature. 

Stuart knows the woodland like his own backyard. He picks leaves 

that expel a peppery cinnamon scent and points out wild banana 

orchids — Cayman’s national flower — sprouting from mahogany 

trees. I learn to recognise the broad leaves of the silver thatch, 

an endemic palm used by early settlers for roofing, basketry and 

producing hardy salt water-resistant rope. “Guess what islanders 

named this one?” Stuart smirks, pointing to a trunk with a deep-red 

flaking bark. “Meet the Tourist Tree — a week on Cayman and most 

visitors look similar.” 

Breaks in the canopy illuminate the leaf-littered forest floor with 

brilliant shafts of sunlight. We move at a meditative pace, the silence 

broken only by the strident calls of jungle birds; the mournful coo of 

the tropical dove drowned out by a raucous duet of parrots. Across 

a damp boardwalk, we strike northward through a warp and weft of 

twisted roots and fallen trees toppled by Hurricane Ivan in 2004. 

We give a wide berth to an innocuous-looking fruit tree that turns 

out to be a deadly manchineel, one of the world’s most poisonous. 

“Just brushing against its leaves will cause your skin to blister. A 

drop of its resin will burn your skin like acid,” Stuart warns. Soon 

after, we reach a limestone platform, where savagely sharp toothlike 

rocks spike us underfoot, and the nearby tree trunks appear 

riddled with bullet holes — a sign that a yellow-bellied sapsucker 

(woodpecker) has declared ownership of the territory. From there, 

it’s on into overgrown grassland where iridescent butterflies bring 

welcome flashes of colour after seemingly endless green. 

My morning of moderate exertion permits 

a pit stop at Rum Point, a sandy spot on the 

island’s northern tip. Legend has it the beach 

gained its name after barrels of rum were 

washed up here from a shipwreck. True to 

the name, wickedly potent rum punches are 

served from a series of colourful shacks slung 

across a beachfront where bathers gorge on 

jerk-seasoned mahi-mahi fish and sizzling 

conch fritters. At the Dak Shak, I order a 

Mud Slide, a deliciously rich blend of Kahlua, 

vodka and Irish Cream. Well-positioned 

beach hammocks encourage you to snooze 

away any tipsiness, lulled by lapping tides and 

relaxing reggae grooves. 

As the sun’s heat grows merciless, I find 

subterranean refuge in the Crystal Caves. 

My guide is Azan, a local with faded tattoos 

and an enviable swagger, who in singsong 

Caymanian tones spins stories from a 

misspent youth spent spelunking among 

the stalagmites. “My parents would tell me, 

stay away from those caves. When they came 

home they’d know straight away where I’d 

been. That red you see on the ground — no 

stain remover gets that out.” 

Curiously, there’s a wild fig tree over nearly 

every entrance to the caves, the roots of each 

one dangling down between the limestone 

fissures like prying fingers. In addition to 

hordes of sleeping bats, the caverns are home 

to a series of otherworldly sculptures; some 

ABOVE: Seven Mile Beach 

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE 

FROM TOP LEFT: Seven 

Mile Beach; barman, 

Rum Point; signs at 

Hammerheads Brew Pub 

& Grill, George Town, 

Grand Cayman; Rum 

Point jetty 

IMAGES: GETTY; ZOE MCINTYRE; AWL IMAGES 







The farmers’ market is a 

refreshingly local affair, 

replete with friendly 

stallholders pedalling baskets 

of fiery scotch bonnet peppers, 

homemade sea-grape jams and 

strange barks tied in bundles 

IMAGES: GETTY; ZOE MCINTYRE 

OPPOSITE: Surfers at 

Seven Mile Beach 

ABOVE: Limestone 

spikes, Crystal Caves 

smooth as a shell, others contorted like a 

grimace. I become acquainted with Azan’s 

favourites; the cranial-shaped Skull, the 

air-fisting Statue of Liberty and the silent 

Bell. Our last view is of an underground lake 

with water so pure it reflects the ceiling’s 

limestone spikes with crystal clarity. 

Back in George Town, I learn more about 

the natural bounty of the island at The 

Brasserie — a farm-to-table restaurant that, 

on an island strongly reliant on imported 

supplies, is leading a much-needed move 

towards localism. I’m here for its Harvest 

Dinner; a shared-plate affair where 20-orso 

guests dine on homegrown and locally 

sourced fare at communal tables. Our 

backdrop is an expansive conservatory 

lined with vegetable-sprouting raised beds, 

hanging herb baskets and trellises tumbling 

with heirloom beans. “We want to showcase 

what we’re producing,” chef Dean Max tells 

us. “Most visitors to the Caribbean never get 

a true taste. We’re trying to change that.” 

For canapes, there’s melt-in-the-mouth 

goats’ cheese truffles rolled in pollen and 

drizzled in honey from the restaurant’s own 

apiary. Next comes succulent roasted pig, a 

hearty bean stew sweetened with Cayman’s 

sun-kissed tomatoes and textured snapper 

caught on The Brasserie’s fishing boat. It 

seems that Cayman’s farming traditions, 

though largely abandoned in the 1970s, are 

now undergoing a renaissance. Long may it continue, I mumble 

between mouthfuls. 

Meeting the locals 

It’s little after 10am but Devan is already trying his luck. “You here 

with your husband, Miss? Leave him home tonight, I take you 

to Paradise,” he guffaws from behind mirrored lenses. I’ve met 

Cayman’s answer to Casanova over conch chowder at George Town’s 

Saturday farmers’ market — a recommendation from my previous 

evening’s dining companions. It’s a refreshingly local affair, replete 

with friendly stallholders peddling baskets of fiery scotch bonnet 

peppers, homemade sea-grape jams and strange barks tied in 

bundles. I slurp a mango smoothie from a banana-strewn breakfast 

truck and strike up conversation with a young girl weaving baskets 

from what I recognise as silver birch. “It’s an old skill,” she tells me, 

“my mother-in-law taught me. I’m trying to carry on the tradition.” 

Many other native plants are on show in the Botanic Park along 

with the island’s most exotic resident: the blue iguana. Soon after 

arriving I spot one basking on a rock — a hefty, prehistoric beast 

with bloodshot eyes, curling claws and dinosaur-like spikes arching 

along a sagging, blue-tinted body. “They may look fearsome, but 

they can’t fight,” says Alberto, a guide at the Blue Iguana Recovery 

Program, who refers to each ‘baba’ with a father-like pride. A decade 

ago, there were less than 25 of these critters left on Grand Cayman, 

but thanks to a dedicated conservation mission there are now close 

to 1,000. “They’re territorial, so we know where to find them,” Alberto 

explains. I casually enquire exactly where this might be; I don’t fancy 

meeting one without warning. 

On my last night on Grand Cayman, I indulge in a huge seafood 

feast at the Cracked Conch, enjoying its palm-thatched bar and 

breezy seafront setting. I skip dessert for a finale at Office in George 

Town — a gritty, backstreet bar where the young, fun and scantily 



IMAGES: GETTY; SUPERSTOCK 

FROM LEFT: Blue iguana, 

Queen Elizabeth II 

Botanic Park, Grand 

Cayman; coral reef on 

Bloody Bay Wall, 

Little Cayman 

clad gather for after-work drinks. On the 

outside terrace, dreadlocked dudes smoke 

suspiciously aromatic roll-ups to the beat 

of bass-heavy speakers. Inside, it’s a steamy 

cocktail of cultures; tourists and locals, hipwigglers 

and rump-shakers, pressed together 

to dance until we drop. 

The next day, our little plane descends 

towards a dusty runway, and I gaze down at 

a splinter of land, pancake-flat and sandfringed. 

Little Cayman is aptly named; just 

10 miles long and one mile wide, its blinkand-you’ll-miss-it 

centre consists of a strip 

of shop fronts, counting one grocery store, a 

bank open twice a week and the airport that 

doubles as a fire station. When I borrow a bike 

to explore the island, road signs give right of 

way to iguanas — understandable, when you 

consider they outnumber the island’s human 

population of around 200. I pass no cars on 

the way to Point of Sands, a perfect crescent 

beach backed by bowed palms, where I bathe 

without another soul in sight. 

Checking in at Southern Cross Club, 

I’m slightly alarmed to learn my rustic 

bungalow has no room key — a testament 

to the island’s nonexistent crime rates. Days 

at the beachfront resort slip by in soporific 

indolence, split between swims, siestas 

and gazing into that azure sea. While more 

dynamic guests propel themselves around 

on paddleboards, I manage a leisurely kayak 

out to Owen Island, a tiny bush-tangled spit, 

which I comb for conch shells. Eventually I paddle back before the 

sun burns its way across the horizon. 

Come evening, a motley bunch congregates at the hotel bar, telling 

tales of their day’s sightings out on the reef between lengthy slugs of 

rum. They’re exactly the kind of quirky castaways you’d hope to wash 

up on a desert island; nomads and mavericks, the sozzled and the 

shoeless, wayward explorers and incurable romantics pricked by the 

promise of paradise. Here I meet dive instructor Ed, who has shaken 

off his Brummie accent for a sibilant, sun-soothed purr. “Why would 

I want to go back to England,” he scoffs, “when my office is this sea?” 

Another cloudless day breaks; early morning is Little Cayman’s 

magic moment. Perched on a snarl of bleached driftwood, I watch the 

early light blush the beach in a roseate glow. After breakfast, I join 

Ed and his crew for a boat ride to Bloody Bay, where pirates allegedly 

fought battles so fierce the waters ran red. Today, it’s one of the finest 

dive sites in the Caribbean, largely due to the coral reef lying just 

above what’s known as ‘the Wall’ — the edge of a submerged cliff that 

starts as shallow as 20ft before plunging to dizzying 6,000ft depths. 

We leave the bay’s luminescent waters and head out to the deep. 

I plunge gracelessly off the boat straight into a kaleidoscope world 

of brilliant coral, swaying purple sea fans, and neon-yellow tube 

sponges, amid underwater terrain as rugged as any terrestrial 

precipice. Transparent jellyfish ghost alongside razor-toothed 

barracuda. Around a towering pinnacle, I narrowly avoid a headlong 

collision with a grumpy-faced grouper before getting lost in a school 

of stripy sergeant major fish and clouds of tiny florescent creole 

wrasse sparkling like confetti. 

If Little Cayman is an island of beach bums and aquatic fanatics, 

Cayman Brac — just 15 miles away — is better suited to those with a 

restless streak. It’s the wildest island in the archipelago, and there’s 

little evidence of mass tourism. Locals are proud of their otherness, 

referring to themselves as Brackers, not Caymanians — the ‘Brac’ 

taken from the Gaelic word for bluff, referring to the 150ft-high rock 



The Bluff, Cayman Brac 

sweeping across the island’s spine like a 

mighty limestone fortress. 

The name came from the Scots who settled 

here in the mid-19th century, later joined by 

Jamaicans, Welsh and other hardy souls. 

Many of their ancestors remain — like Mitzi, 

a soft-spoken woman who traces her heritage 

to the first settlers. “They were deserters from 

Cromwell’s army,” she tells me. Together, 

we’re braving the island’s wind-battered 

lighthouse path that leads into arid scrubland 

littered with spiky agaves and cacti towering 

like giant candelabra. Finally, we reap our 

reward; a sighting of endangered brown 

boobies nesting in the cliff edges. 

The next day, I find myself in Le Soleil 

d’Or, a boutique hideaway recently opened 

on the island’s south side, decidedly fanciful 

for rugged Brac. Its main building, awash 

with terracotta tiling and bougainvilleastrewn 

balustrades, is redolent of a European 

chateau. The beach club boasts a private 

stretch of immaculate sand adorned with 

massage booths and perfectly spaced 

parasols. But the real draw is the hotel’s 

20-acre farm; an Eden of ambrosial produce 

that sustains the on-site restaurant. I tuck 

into their spoils for breakfast; an omelette 

cracked from freshly-laid eggs, homemade 

bread with sun-sweetened mango jam and an 

exotic dragon-fruit salad. 

With the moment of my departure 

looming, I take a final meander along the 

beach. Not so far out at sea, I spot a dark 

shadow break the glassy surface — a turtle 

peeks his head out to say goodbye. There can 

surely be no better send-off. 

ESSENTIALS 


British Airways flies direct to Grand Cayman 

from Heathrow four times a week. ba.com 


Cayman Airways Express flies daily between the 

islands. caymanairways.com 

Grand Cayman is easily explored by hire car. 

Buses cover all districts. 

When to go 

Mid-May to October is hot and rainy, while it’s 

mild and dry from November to April. 


Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Gardens. 

botanic-park.ky 

Mastic Trail Tour. nationaltrust.org.ky/ 

mastic-trail-tour 

Crystal Caves. caymancrystalcaves.com 

LITTLE CAYMAN 

& CAYMAN BRAC 

GRAND 

CAYMAN 

West 

Bay 

SEVEN MILE BEACH 

West 

Bay 

George 

Town 

Miami 

North 

Sound 

Rum Point 

LITTLE CAYMAN 

Bloody 

Bay 

Blossom Village 

MASTIC TRAIL 

GRAND CAYMAN 

Rum Point. rumpointclub.com 

The Brasserie. brasseriecayman.com 

The Cracked Conch. crackedconch.com.ky 

Stingray City. stingraycitycaymanislands.com 

Where to stay 

Grand Cayman Marriott Beach Resort. 

marriott.com 

Le Soleil d’Or. lesoleildor.com 

Southern Cross Club. southerncrossclub.com 

More info 

caymanluxe.co.uk 

How to do it 

BRITISH AIRWAYS HOLIDAYS offers seven 

nights at the Grand Cayman Marriott Beach 

Resort from £1,845 per person, room-only. 

Includes BA flights from Heathrow. ba.com 

POINT 

OF SAND 

CAYMAN BRAC 

Stake Bay 

CRYSTAL CAVES 

QUEEN ELIZABETH II 

BOTANIC PARK 

Spot Bay 

same scale as main map 

2 Miles 

Gun 

Bay 

Bodden Town 

C A R I B B E A N S E A 

IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER 


PROMOTIONAL FEATURE 

M A M B O 

ITALIANO 

The Italian language is not only musicality 

and gestures — here are five great Italian 

expressions that are sure to wow the locals 

Stare con le mani in mano 

TRANSLATION: To hold your own hands 

ENGLISH EQUIVALENT: To sit on your hands 

This phrase could be used to address someone doing nothing while 

everyone else is working, or to highlight a person’s poor manners if 

they were supposed to bring a gift but didn’t. 

È il mio cavallo di battaglia 

TRANSLATION: It’s my battle horse 

ENGLISH EQUIVALENT: It’s my forte 

Used to indicate someone’s forte (another Italian word!), this phrase 

can be used in just about any context. Go on, big yourself up! 

Acqua in bocca! 

TRANSLATION: Keep the water in your mouth! 

ENGLISH EQUIVALENT: Keep it to yourself 

Nobody wants to be blamed for talking about other people’s business. 

Every time you reveal a little more than you ought to, use this phrase 

to ensure your gossip partner won’t blow your cover. 

Non avere peli sulla lingua 

TRANSLATION: To have no hair on your tongue 

ENGLISH EQUIVALENT: To make no bones about something 

People without hair on their tongue are honest to a fault, even if they 

run the risk of offending someone. They’re lacking a filter between 

brain and tongue. 

Non ci piove 

TRANSLATION: It doesn’t rain 

ENGLISH EQUIVALENT: No doubt about it 

Ending a discussion with ‘non ci piove’ means you’re very confident of 

your closing line, and that what you’re saying is so conclusive that it 

can’t possibly be up for further discussion. 

Ready 

to start 

learning? 

For a free trial lesson, 

head to babbel.com 

or download 

the app 

A TASTE OF ITALY 

One of the best things about 

learning Italian is the culinary 

possibilities it offers up. 

Italian cuisine has become a 

staple in the West, bringing 

a number of Italian words 

into our vocabularies. Penne 

all’arrabbiata translates to 

‘angry pasta’ (presumably 

because it’s spicy), while farfalle 

(the pasta shaped like bows) 

actually means ‘butterflies’. 

HEADLINE SPONSORS OF 

· 2017 ·


utch 

MASTERPIECE 

Flower season is when Amsterdam is dressed in its best 

blooms: spring sees the fields around the city fan out in 

a bold patchwork of tulips and hyacinths. Velvety petals 

carpet the landscape, while markets are given over to 

unique bulbs and rainbow bouquets 

Words & photographs NORI JEMIL 


NETHERLANDS 

Open for only eight weeks of 

the year, the flower gardens 

of Keukenhof see a footfall 

of over one million people. 

The 79-acre park could keep 

visitors occupied all day, 

but the best place to see the 

flowers is out in the fields 

beyond. Here, among blissinducing 

scents and colours, 

flat paths are made for 

carefree pedalling. 


NETHERLANDS 


NETHERLANDS 

The tulip industry in The Netherlands dates back to the 16th century, when merchants shipped 

in bulbs from Ottoman Turkey. Today, the epicentre of this floral trade is at Amsterdam’s 

sprawling Aalsmeer Flower Auction, the world’s largest flower auction. 


NETHERLANDS 


NETHERLANDS 


NETHERLANDS 

In any Dutch town, bulb and flower markets are 

part of daily life. During tulip season in Haarlem, 

a port city just outside Amsterdam, florist Paul 

Wijkmeijer at Klavertje Vijf prepares displays 

for the Frans Hals Museum. The tulip made 

Haarlem one of the most thriving European 

towns during ‘tulip mania’ in the 1600s. 


NETHERLANDS 

The Frans Hals Museum is hung with paintings focused on obsessive 17th century bulb 

collectors who traded Amsterdam's canal houses for a single specimen. After the market crashed, 

their greed was mocked but without their passion, Holland wouldn’t have its tulip fields. 



City life 

ADDIS 

ABABA 

Lofty and leafy, with ancient sprawling markets and shiny 

modern skyscrapers, Ethiopia’s capital is a surprise 

package with a curious past 

WORDS: Chris Leadbeater 


Four men are approaching at speed, 

consuming with ease the gradient 

under their feet offered by Mount 

Entoto. They’re all wearing the same uniform, 

the same expression of concentration and 

focus, and for a second, I wonder if they’re 

coming for me. But they continue upwards, 

fluorescent trainers padding the tarmac, 

exercise tops stretched tight over limbs and 

torsos. I follow them with my eyes, until they 

glide around a corner and the eucalyptus 

treeline claims them, never once slowing 

their pace as they race towards their futures. 

A quartet of slight teenagers, they’re a 

symbol of Ethiopian aspiration. And they 

have every reason to be pushing themselves 

on this 10,500ft peak, which frames Addis 

Ababa. Long-distance running is firmly 

established as a route to better things in 

Ethiopia. The proof lies two miles up the 

road amid shady paths and tasteful 

accommodation. Yaya Village opened in 

2011 as a mixture of four-star hotel and 

training camp for athletes seeking to hone 

their fitness at altitude. It’s partly owned by 

superstar runner Haile Gebrselassie, the 

(now retired) Ethiopian master of the 

marathon, who won two Olympic gold 

medals and set 27 world records. The young 

men who overtook me will be dreaming of 

achieving even a fraction of the glory 

amassed by a legend who’s considered one 

of the greatest ever sportsmen, and of 

taking the tape in New York, Dubai, Sydney 

and the other major cities where he won. 

Just the thought of their relentless stride 

pattern is enough to snare my breath 

— although the discernible thinness of the 

oxygen at this elevation doesn’t help. Two 

steps behind, my guide Yohannes Assefa 

giggles. “Come on,” he says. “Just by getting 

off the plane, you’re seven years younger than 

you were yesterday. This little hill really 

shouldn’t be an issue.” 

He’s referring to the Ethiopian Calendar, 

which, by dint of the Orthodox Christian 


ADDIS ABABA 

tradition in the country, lags three quarters 

of a decade behind conventional diaries 

— 11 September, the next New Year’s Day, 

will usher in Ethiopia’s version of 2010. 

But, this quirk of the clock is not the only 

unusual thing about Addis Ababa. For one, 

it’s Africa’s highest capital, floating at 7,700ft 

in the Ethiopian Highlands (to put this in 

context, Kathmandu in Himalayan Nepal 

goes about its day at ‘just’ 4,600ft). This 

makes for a greenness and coolness of 

climate at odds with the still prevailing 

though inaccurate image of Ethiopia, 

bequeathed by Live Aid and the famine of 

1983-1985, as a place of dust and desolation. 

In fact, the sun keeps its fiercest rays holstered 

throughout the year, rarely shifting from its 

groove of 21-23C, and the wet season of June 

to September contributes to the leafiness by 

treating Addis to four months of deluge. 

Then there’s its age. Addis Ababa is a 

child, disgorged onto the map as recently as 

1886 by the Ethiopian emperor Menelik II, 

who wanted a capital befitting his status as 

a ruler of a rapidly expanding domain. 

Gazing down from Mount Entoto, I can see 

that this youthfulness translates into 

another expression of Ethiopian aspiration. 

Modern structures thrust upper storeys into 

the sky, sunlight glinting on their windows. 

At their feet, people mill about — the city’s 

official population figure is 3.4 million, but 

the real head count is likely to be much 

closer to seven million. These residents 

spill out into the different districts — the 

central area of Piazza, where museums 

and churches supply a distinct grandeur; 

the Downtown core of Urael, with its 

bars, hotels and clubs; upwardly-mobile 

Bole, with its priapic towers of desirable 

apartments; and Merkato, a near-endless 

sprawl of alleyways where some 13,000 

merchants make up Africa’s biggest 

city market. 

This urban jam has been sugared of late 

by the opening of the Addis Ababa Light 

Rail. Although funded by Chinese money, 

the first rapid-transit system in sub- 

Saharan Africa sings a song of a 21stcentury 

Ethiopia. Its two lines were 

launched in 2015, dissecting the city 

east-to-west and north-to-south via 39 

stations and 20 miles of track. It has prised 

200,000 people a day from the traffic queues 

— although Bole International Airport, on 

the south-east edge of the centre, is 

becoming increasingly equipped to bring in 

more people. When I pass through its 

arrivals hall, I’m impressed not just by the 

size of the new terminal currently taking 

shape, but by the feast of possible 

destinations listed on the departures board. 

London and New York are there. So are 

Dubai, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Sao Paulo, 

Shanghai and Cape Town. Addis Ababa is 

becoming a hub, and it wants you to know it. 

Green belt // Africa’s highest 

capital, floating at 7,700ft in 

the Ethiopian Highlands, has 

a greenness and coolness at 

odds with the still prevailing 

though inaccurate image, 

bequeathed by Live Aid, of a 

place of dust and desolation 

PREVIOUS SPREAD: A young woman makes traditional 

Ethiopian hand-woven baskets, used for serving injera 

flatbreads, on sale in Mercato Market 

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: A multi-storey building gets a 

facelift; the sprawl of ephemera-filled Mercato 

ABOVE: Fruit-seller at the market 

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY; ALAMY 


ADDIS ABABA 


ADDIS ABABA 

IMAGES: GETTY 


ADDIS ABABA 

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: 

The bright lights of Addis 

Ababa at night; popular 

modern band, Jano, 

performing live 

All this makes it a city where you might be 

tempted to linger, perhaps even for a long 

weekend. Plenty of travellers visit Ethiopia 

every year, but few take a good look at its 

capital, preferring to head out to the rock 

churches of Lalibela and the UNESCO-listed 

ancient obelisks of Axum. While this may be 

understandable, I decide to drag my heels. 

Now, there’s every chance that I’m lost. 

Yohannes and I have delved into the 

labyrinth of Merkato, and, sure-footed on 

home soil, he has briefly marched out of 

sight, leaving me with two feasible turnings 

and the thought that I’m Alice in a 

wonderland maze not of clipped hedges, but 

of many traders and stallholders. These twin 

paths seem to be stacked with every piece of 

ephemera you could imagine. There are 

discarded car batteries and remote controls 

divorced from their televisions. There are 

yellow plastic cans, which once contained 

cooking oil. There are various screws, bolts, 

nuts and second-hand padlocks. There are 

sheets of salvaged corrugated metal, 

fearsomely sharp at the edges, carried on 

tops of heads, forcing passers-by to duck 

unless they want to lose theirs. 

Then comes the voice. “You’re British, 

yes?” There’s an irony to the fact that the man 

making the enquiry is wearing a fake Arsenal 

football shirt, but I nod in response. “I think 

there’s nothing for you here,” he says. It’s not 

a hostile comment; it’s even delivered with a 

smile. It’s more an acknowledgement that 

this four square mile tribute to the idea of 

one person’s trash being his neighbour’s 

treasure isn’t meant for tourists. He clinks 

together two of the empty glass soda bottles 

he sells as water carriers, and grins again. 

“This is not Marrakech,” he says. “You’ll not 

buy pricey bracelets and carpets here.” 

He’s correct. There’s nothing for tourists in 

Merkato. And yet, in another sense, there’s 

everything: a glimpse of how Addis Ababa’s 

economy has worked for decades — nothing 

is without value — is as worthy as any 

souvenir. I ask him, in curiosity, how much 

his bottles cost. He smiles again, still 

friendly, but the meaning is clear: ‘Don’t 

waste my time.’ 

LOCAL SPECIALITIES 

If Merkato is Addis Ababa at any moment 

since 1886, Urael is rather more tied to 2017. 

There’s an upbeat vibe to both Mickey 

Leland Street and Namibia Street, watering 

holes anticipating the evening. A crowd is 

forming outside cocktail haven Shebeta 

Lounge as I amble the former — but I’m 

aiming for the latter, specifically 2000 

Habesha Cultural Restaurant, a whirling 

dervish of a place. Inside, an international 

clientele — local diners, European expats, a 

set of Somali businessmen — is seated 

around tables, listening to the house band 

plucking rhythms and harmonies from their 

Market forces // It’s hard to 

imagine Addis Ababa squashed 

under jackboots. But its happy 

mood conceals a 20th century 

pockmarked by despair: the 

Soviet-backed military 

dictatorship and earlier 

Fascist Italian occupation 

one-string, bass-like masinko and fivestringed 

kirar instruments. The menu offers 

an array of Ethiopian dishes, including 

gomen besiga (cubes of beef and spinach, 

baked in a clay pot) and bozena shiro (yellow 

peas slow-cooked with beef and onions). 

The atmosphere is fuelled by carafes of tej, 

Ethiopian honey wine, its bittersweet taste 

serving to disguise its potency. By the time I 

dash to the Ghion Hotel, seeking a 

performance by Mulatu Astatke, the 73-yearold 

musician who’s seen as the father of 

‘Ethio-Jazz’, the night has taken on a woozy 

quality. The music that emerges from this 

darkened room— echoes of New Orleans, 

but with a rumbling beat that’s entirely 

African — enhances the mood, and the air 

seems to thicken with each key change. 

In such a context, it’s hard to imagine 

Addis Ababa as a city squashed under 

jackboots. But its happy mood conceals a 

20th century pockmarked by despair. The 

famine that sent rock stars scurrying to 

Wembley Stadium in 1985 was caused, in 

part, by the brutality and administrative 

incompetence of the Derg — the Soviet 

Union-backed military dictatorship which 

‘ran’ Ethiopia between 1974 and 1991. This 

oppression was but a delayed second course 

to a vicious starter: the six years (1935-1941) 

when Ethiopia (then known as Abyssinia) 

was occupied by fascist Italy, and Addis 

Ababa, as the centrepoint of resistance, 

suffered the brunt of Mussolini’s anger. 

Both epochs can be revisited here. The 

former is detailed at the Red Terror Martyrs’ 

Memorial Museum in central Kirkos, which 

replays the nightmare with grim precision 

via the torture instruments, dusty coffins 

and photos of some of the regime’s half-amillion 

victims. The latter is kept alive via 

two memorials: Yekatit 12 Square is host to a 

column which salutes the estimated 30,000 

Ethiopians who were massacred by their 

conquerors on 19 February 1937, in response 

to a failed assassination attempt on the 

Italian leader Rodolfo Graziani; while, just 

over a mile away on the edge of Piazza — on a 

roundabout on Fitawrari Gebeyebu Street 

— a giant statue remembers the sacrifice of 

Abune Petros, a bishop who was executed by 


ADDIS ABABA 

Emperor Haile 

Selassie’s bedroom, 

Ethnographic Museum, 

Addis Ababa University 

ESSENTIALS 

Merkato 

Addis 

Ababa 

ETHIOPIA 

Ethnological 

Museum 

Piazza 

University 


Yekatit 12 

Square 

ADDIS ABABA 

Menelik II 

Square 

Red Terror 

Martyrs Memorial 

Museum 

500 yards 

Ethiopian Airlines offers a daily direct service from 

Heathrow to Addis Ababa. ethiopianairlines.com 

AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 7h 30m. 

Urael 

Bole 

The Light Rail system offers the quickest movement 

around the city. St Urael station on Line 1 provides 

access to Urael; Menelik II Square station on Line 2 is 

the best choice for sights such as the National Museum 

and Holy Trinity Cathedral. Tickets from ETB2 (7p). 

When to go 

Temperatures are a fairly constant 21-23C 

throughout the year, although the wet season 

of June-September contributes four months 

of heavy rainfall. 


2000 Habesha Cultural Restaurant. 

2000habesha.com 

Ethnographic Museum at Addis Ababa University. 

aau.edu.et 

Ghion Hotel. ghionhotel.com 

facebook.com/theafricanjazzvillage 

Red Terror Martyrs’ Memorial Museum. rtmmm.org 

Shebeta Lounge. facebook.com/shebetalounge 

Yaya Village. yayavillage.com 

More info 

ethiopia.travel 

How to do it 

COX & KINGS offers three-night mini-breaks in 

Addis Ababa for £1,245 per person, including 

flights from London, private transfers, 

accommodation with breakfast and city tour. They 

also sell a 14-day Ethiopian Odyssey tour that visits 

Axum and Lalibela. From £2,745 per person as a 

group trip, or from £3,625 as a private holiday (with 

flights from London). coxandkings.co.uk 

the occupiers in 1936 for publicly and 

repeatedly denouncing their presence. 

Yet, if you wish to step back into Addis 

Ababa’s story, you cannot do so without 

encountering one particular character. 

Emperor Haile Selassie defined Ethiopia’s 

20th century, governing from 1930 to 1974 

(with the exception of a five-year exile during 

the Italian fascist period). While he was 

arguably no saint, he was charismatic to the 

point of inspiring religious devotion — the 

Rastafari movement in Jamaica still 

considers him a messiah. And he left his 

imprint on the city. His palace (in Piazza) is 

now marooned on the campus of Addis 

Ababa University and has been refitted as the 

Ethnographic Museum. But amid some 

intriguing artefacts, including art depicting 

Ethiopia’s first fight with Italian colonialism, 

the victorious Battle of Adwa in 1896, you can 

detect the grandeur. Selassie’s bedroom is 

preserved as a statement of majesty, even if 

the size of the bed betrays his lack of stature. 

He also haunts the National Museum, just 

to the south — his colossal throne another 

emblem of royal power. It’s mighty enough 

to almost eclipse the prime exhibit, the 

skeletal remains of ‘Lucy’, a woman who 

strode the Ethiopian landscape 3.2 million 

years ago, as one of the mothers of mankind. 

She was discovered in a lake bed in 1974, a 

great year for humanity’s knowledge of its 

roots, but a bad one for Selassie, who was 

deposed by the Derg amid soaring inflation 

and unrest. His demise was unseemly. He 

was imprisoned, then reportedly died of 

‘respiratory failure’ in August 1975, 

according to state media of the day. It wasn’t 

until 1992 that his bones were found below a 

concrete slab in the palace grounds. 

Still, Selassie had the last laugh: he was 

re-buried with much pomp in November 

2000 at Holy Trinity Cathedral, the Orthodox 

bastion he founded in 1931. Athletes stream 

past the gates as I near it; again, all sweat and 

application, oblivious to the magnificence of 

the building behind the fence. But, Ethiopia’s 

imperialists, you can be certain, are not. 

Their fallen champion slumbers in style 

within; his mausoleum an enormous 

exercise in cold marble. 

Before I cross the threshold, I’m drawn to 

one particular grave outside. Here’s another 

Addis Ababa idiosyncrasy. The headstone 

serenades the soul of Sylvia Pankhurst, the 

suffragette and friend of Selassie’s, who 

moved to the city in 1956 and died there four 

years later. Clearly, my interest in her once 

again denotes me as British, for I’m 

approached by an elderly worshipper. We 

swap strands of conversation, until he drops 

the pertinent question: “So, Brexit — is it 

fine for you, or not?” When the UK’s current 

political affairs are a topic for discussion in a 

country once the subject of world concern, 

you know times have changed. 

IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER 


THE LAND OF ORIGINS AND ANCIENT HISTORY WITH 

STYLISH, ICONIC AND SOPHISTICATED HOTEL IN ETHOPIA 

What is the first thing that comes to your mind when you think 

of Ethiopia? 

The tropical monsoon climate which many are fond of, the 

diversity of the 80+ ethnic groups, each with its own language, 

the culture, custom and tradition, the history which goes way 

back to 3000 years, or the impressive geological features and 

man-made monuments? 

Ethiopia is truly a land of contrasts and extremes; a land of 

remote and wild places. Some of the most stunning places 

on the African continent are found here. Many people visit 

Ethiopia - or hope to do so one day - because of the remarkable 

manner in which ancient historical traditions have been 

preserved. It’s worth to come and visit your ancestor 

“Lucy’/Australopithecus afarensis” and the birth place of Coffee. 

The Radisson Blu Hotel Addis Ababa is idealy located in an 

exclusive business area at the heart of Kazanchis Business 

District, perfect base for exploring historical Addis Ababa 

and its treasure such as the Ethiopian Ethnological and 

National Museums, Menelik’s old Imperial Palace, St. George’s 

Cathedral , the largest open market in Africa ‘Merkato’, and 

many more. The hotel is designed to make your stay an 

inspirational pleasure, creating a memorable sense of arrival 

with its unique and iconic architectural design along with its 

holistic hospitality that is in line with the needs of the 

modern travelers. 

Choose from 212 stylish rooms and suites, decorated in rich 

neutral tones, with tastefull accents and prints. These rooms 

cater to your comfort with climate control, pillow choices and 

double glazed windows to ensure your peace. You can also 

enjoy modern amenities, including satellite television 

and free high speed wireless internet access. Accessible 

rooms and smoking/non smoking preferences are available 

upon request. 

Radisson Blu is your perfect gateway on your next trip to 

Ethiopia 

www.radissonblu.com/hotel-addisababa 

Tel: +251 115 157 600 

info.addisababa@radissonblu.com

City life 

AARHUS 

ZZZ 

A little-known, laid back Danish city with a distinctly sunny 

outlook, the 2017 European Capital of Culture is stepping 

out of Copenhagen’s shadow and coming into its own 

WORDS: James Clasper PHOTOGRAPHS: Nori Jemil 

You can literally hear new life emerging in Aarhus. Whenever a baby is born in the 

Danish city’s hospital, a bell rings in DOKK1, its new public library. And not just any 

old bell, but the world’s largest tubular bell — with a weight of three tons. The happy 

parents simply press a button in the maternity ward and it chimes. 

I get chatting to a man with an office at DOKK1, and ask him if it’s a disturbance. Not at all, 

he says. “It just brings a smile to everyone’s face.” It’s an apt comment. Aarhus has a few 

nicknames, including the World’s Smallest Metropolis, but the City of Smiles seems spot-on 

right now. Denmark’s second city has long lived in Copenhagen’s shadow, yet its designation 

as a European Capital of Culture in 2017 has put a spring in its step. 

You sense it strolling along Jægergårdsgade, a bustling street in trendy Frederiksbjerg, 

south of the city centre. Nondescript a few years ago, Jægergårdsgade is jam-packed today 

with bars, cafes, restaurants and shops. You can’t miss the mechanics of regeneration either, 

from construction workers building shiny office blocks to a skyline peppered with cranes. 

Yet, against all the urban development, Aarhus also happens to be blessed with beaches 

and beech forests within easy reach. And, as you’d expect from a diminutive Scandi city, it’s 

one best explored on foot or by bike — although unlike the capital, it isn’t pancake-flat. 

And, if that sounds like hungry work, don’t worry. The de facto capital of the European 

Region of Gastronomy in 2017, Aarhus boasts a trio of Michelin-starred spots, plus a galaxy of 

affordable options. They include a new street-food market — a big hit with the 40,000 

students who help make Aarhus the youngest city in Denmark. 

Back at DOKK1, I spot further proof of the city’s youth — a ‘car park’ for baby strollers, 

replete with lane markings. And, not for the first time, I find myself smiling. 


On the timber viewing 

platform beneath 

Olafur Eliasson’s 

‘floating’ 360-degree 

glass walkway. Your 

Rainbow Panorama is 

the permanent work 

of art at the top of the 

Aros museum, with great 

views of the city 


AARHUS 

Why does Author Dan Buettner pinpoint Aarhus 

as one of the world’s happiest cities? Trust. ‘You 

can leave your baby carriage (and baby) parked 

outside a cafe and not have to worry,’ he writes 

CLOCKWISE: Aarhus’s cycle-friendly 

streets; selling cakes in Den Gamle By 

open-air museum; the old timber 

windmill by the botanical gardens; 

Australian artist Ron Mueck’s 

enthralling, hyper-real ‘Boy’, 1999, 

looms in the ARoS museum 

EAT 

KOHALEN: Few places are more 

Danish than this cosy pub, which celebrates 

its 110th birthday this year. Locals flock here 

for traditional dishes, such as open-face 

sandwiches and cured herring. It’s excellent 

value for money, but booking ahead is 

recommended. kohalen.dk 

RESTAURANT PONDUS: The baby brother 

of Michelin-starred Substans, this casual 

eatery describes itself as a Danish bistro. 

Enjoy well-executed, seasonal dishes — such 

as pork belly with parsnips and lingonberries 

— in a relaxed setting. The three-course set 

menu for 295DKK (£34) is excellent value. 

restaurantpondus.dk 

RESTAURANT FREDERIKSHØJ: Don’t go 

all the way to Aarhus only to skip the very 

place that put it on the gastronomic map. 

Super-chef Wassim Hallal won his first 

Michelin star in 2015 — one of the first in the 

city. His new Nordic menu takes inspiration 

from the sea and the forest, which form the 

the restaurant’s stunning surroundings. 

Book well ahead. frederikshoj.com 

BUY 

CITY CENTRE: Aarhus’ compact centre 

is home to several top department stores, 

including Salling and Magasin du Nord, as 

well as Illums Bolighus, a one-stop shop for 

Scandinavian design. And don’t miss Strøget, 

a kilometre-long pedestrian street packed 

with leading fashion brands and boutiques. 

JÆGERGÅRDSGADE: Nothing showcases the 

city’s renaissance quite like this street south 

of the railway station. Linking the up-andcoming 

neighbourhood of Frederiksbjerg in 

the west with the old meatpacking district of 

Kødbyen in the east, the once-grubby 

Jægergårdsgade is today a fun place to shop, 

eat and drink. 

THE LATIN QUARTER: With its narrow, 

cobblestoned streets, hidden courtyards and 

medieval buildings, the oldest part of town 

oozes historic charm. Spend the morning 

exploring its shops and boutiques — many 

of the local jewellery designers and 

ceramicists have their workshops here 

— and refuel with a top-notch coffee at 

La Cabra in Aarhus Central Food Market. 

LIKE A LOCAL 

KULBROEN: In the summer, you’ll find 

a busy food market and occasional jazz 

festival beneath this decrepit bridge, which 

was once used to transport coal. Residents 

hope to turn the historic edifice into their 

version of the High Line, Manhattan’s 

railway line-turned-public park, even 

extending it so that it links the train station 

with the harbourside. kulbroen.com 

DEN PERMANENTE: Enjoy a dip at this 

much-cherished beach and outdoor 

swimming bath, a 10-minute cycle ride out 

of town, situated just below the woodland 

park Riis Skov. Den Permanente has been a 

hit with locals since 1933, and you can see 

why: a beech forest provides its bucolic 

backdrop. vigirbyenpuls.dk 

INGERSLEVS BOULEVARD: On Wednesdays 

and Saturdays until 2pm, head to Denmark’s 

largest food market, south of the city centre. 

There, you’ll find around 60 stalls selling 

local meat, fish and cheese, fruit and 

vegetables, and honey from local beekeepers. 

facebook.com/ingerslevtorv 


AARHUS 

SEE & DO 

AARHUS SEARANGERS: Culture 

vultures, speed demons and nature-lovers 

alike will enjoy this adrenaline-filled tour of 

the bay. The SeaRangers are experts on local 

history as well as marine life. If you’re lucky, 

you’ll see seals and porpoises. Hold on tight, 

though. searangers.dk 

AROS: The city’s contemporary art museum 

is a must-visit, not least because it houses a 

first-class permanent collection, including 

works by Andy Warhol and Ron Mueck. But 

the highlight is Danish-Icelandic artist 

Olafur Eliasson’s Your Rainbow Panorama 

— a 150m-long circular walkway, 50m above 

the rooftop. Its multi-coloured glass provides 

unbeatable views of the city. en.aros.dk 

THE BOTANICAL GARDENS: You’ll be floored by 

the flora at this award-winning attraction, 

the highlight of which is four climatecontrolled 

greenhouses. The journey begins 

amid the almond trees of the Mediterranean, 

continues into desert and mountain regions, 

and ends in tropical treetops. 

DEN GAMLE BY: An imaginative open-air 

museum, which shows how Danish people 

lived in three distinct eras: 1864, the era of 

Hans Christian Andersen; 1927, when 

industrialisation took hold; and the hippiedippy 

days of 1974. ‘The Old Town’ was built 

with 75 historical houses relocated from 24 

towns across the country. dengamleby.dk 

GODSBANEN: To see urban redevelopment at 

its most dramatic, visit these repurposed 

industrial buildings in the grounds of a 

former railway yard. Since 2010, they’ve been 

home to a range of creative businesses and 

workshops, so there’s always plenty going on. 

godsbanen.dk 

MOESGAARD MUSEUM: With its wealth of 

archaeological and ethnographic treasures 

— including the Grauballe Man, the world’s 

best preserved Iron Age bog body — as well 

as the stunning views from its sloping grass 

roof, this museum is not to be missed. 

moesgaardmuseum.dk/en 

VIKING MUSEUM: The basement of a Danish 

bank happens to be the spot where the 

Vikings founded the city of Aros a 

millennium ago. It’s worth a visit to view the 

artefacts unearthed here in the 1960s, 

including 1,000-year-old tools and pottery, 

and a Viking skeleton. vikingemuseet.dk 

Take me to the river // 

Students at Aarhus University 

compete in the beer-soaked 

Kapsejladsen boat race every 

spring. Held every year 

since 2000, it attracts 

up to 25,000 spectators 


AARHUS 

AFTER HOURS 

ST PAULS APOTHEK: Head to this 

former pharmacy on Jægergårdsgade for ‘all 

kinds of fixes, smashes… and other fancy 

cocktails’. Many are made with 

quintessentially Nordic ingredients, like 

the sea buckthorn that puts the twist in a 

Tom Collins. stpaulsapothek.dk 

S’VINBAR: This cosy corner bar in the centre 

of town is the go-to place for a glass of wine. 

It tilts towards Old World wines and with 

more than 300 for sale, most by the glass, 

there’s an unusual amount of choice. The 

wine flight changes daily and focuses on a 

particular grape or region. svinbar.dk 

MIG OG ØLSNEDKEREN: If craft beer’s your 

thing, make a beeline for this year-old bar on 

Mejlgade. A Copenhagen brewpub spin-off, 

it has 20 microbrews on tap — half from 

Denmark and the rest from around the 

world. facebook.com/migogolsnedkeren 

See the world through giant rose tinted 

spectacles with the ‘Sea Pink’ installation 

by Swiss artist Marc Moser 

ZZZ SLEEP 

MØLLESTIEN 49 AND 51: Rambling 

roses, half-timbered houses, cobblestones 

— you won’t find a quainter option than 

these tiny guesthouses, located on the city’s 

prettiest street, a few minutes from Aros. 

While one property has been renovated, the 

other retains its original 18th-century 

features. house-in-aarhus.com 

SCANDIC AARHUS CITY: Location is key 

for this four-star hotel — it’s a stone’s throw 

from the main shopping street and walking 

distance from the railway station. It also has 

underground parking and onsite bar and 

restaurant — though you’ll be spoilt for 

choice if you do venture out. scandichotels.com 

VILLA PROVENCE: Enjoy a taste of the 

south of France at this cute boutique hotel. 

Its 39 rooms and suites are individually 

decorated in Provençal style. Throw in a 

pretty cobbled courtyard and a plum 

location, right in the heart of town, and 

la vie, c’est belle. villaprovence.dk 

ESSENTIALS 


Ryanair flies daily from Stansted to Aarhus. 

Norwegian Air flies twice a week (Thursday and 

Sunday) from Gatwick to Aalborg. British Airways 

flies daily from Heathrow to Billund. SAS flies eight 

times a day to Aarhus from Copenhagen. 

ryanair.com norwegian.com ba.com flysas.com 

AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 1h 40m. 

Explore Aarhus on foot or by bicycle — rent one 

through Cycling Aarhus for 110 DKK (around £13) 

a day. Alternatively, you can pick up taxis easily, 

though they’re not cheap, and most cab drivers 

speak English. From mid-2017 there’ll be a light 

railway service running through the city. 

cycling-aarhus.dk/rent-a-bike 

When to go 

Ideally, from April to October. Denmark has harsh 

winters but is typically mild throughout the rest of the 

year with temperatures around 10C. The weather is 

usually very pleasant from late spring to early autumn 

— but always pack a raincoat and a spare jumper. 

More info 

visitaarhus.com 

Lonely Planet Denmark. RRP: £15.99 

How to do it 

BRITISH AIRWAYS HOLIDAYS offers three nights’ B&B 

at the three-star Scandic Aarhus Vest from £269 per 

person, including return flights from Heathrow. 

ba.com 

Botanical 

Gardens 

The Old Town 

Godsbanen 

Aarhus 

DENMARK 

ARoS 

A a r hus 

Latin 

Quarter 

A A R H U S 

Midtbyen 

Aarhus 

Central Station 

Jæger gårdsgade 

Dokk1 

200 yards 

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER 


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SPECIAL FEATURE 

Tokyo 

48 HOURS IN 

The historic centre where it all began, the 

Nihonbashi district is the perfect place to 

spend a few yen and get a taste of the city 

Words: Audrey Gillan 

I’m standing in the birthplace of Japan’s most celebrated 

foodstuff. It also happens to be the very centre of the 

country. The two things are not directly related but seem 

perfect, poetic companions. The district of Nihonbashi 

is the point from which all distances in the country were 

originally measured; the word means ‘Tokyo bridge’, and 

at the very midpoint of said crossing is a brass marker of 

Japan’s exact ‘Kilometre Zero’ spot. 

Nihonbashi was also the original site of the Tokyo fish 

market (now a 20-minute cab ride away in Tsukiji), where 

Edomae-style sushi began, consumed on the hop by busy 

fish vendors. A pile of rice topped with raw fish could be 

eaten with just fingers. Commonly known as Tokyo-style 

sushi, today it’s by far the most popular variant. 

Back in the Edo period (1603-1868), Nihonbashi was the 

hub of five routes, the Gokaidō, connecting the capital 

with the provinces. It quickly became a mercantile hub, 

and continues to flourish with artisan wares — think 

exquisite washi paper, high-sheen lacquerware, and tiny 

toothpicks, sold in shops that sit cheek-by-jowl with 

luxury department stores. The old stone bridge, now 

traversed by the expressway built for the 1964 summer 

Olympics, seems thoroughly hemmed in and yet it marks 

a centuries-spanning crossroads. At some traffic lights, 

I spy four grown men driving Super Mario-style carts, in 

outfits to match: the modern city thriving in its old heart. 

This area is also an epicentre of spring’s hanami (flower 

viewing), when the 169 trees of Cherry Blossom street 

(Sakura Dori) are in full bloom, the focus of ‘welcoming 

spring’ celebrations that include delicate foods perfumed 

with the flowers. But you don’t have to wait until spring 

to get a taste of Nihonbashi. Tokyo Station is a 15-minute 

stroll away, notable not just for its pre-war, red-brick 

facade, but for its endless subterranean food outlets. 

On ‘Ramen Street’, join locals loudly slurping slippery 

noodles and lip-smacking umami broth from big bowls. 

And make a point of exploring Nihonbashi’s smaller side 

streets and find a queue to join. More often than not, 

this signals one of Tokyo’s top food spots. At Kaneko 

Hannosuke, for example, customers are prepared to stand 

in line for hours for its exemplary ten-don: tempura set 

over a bowl of rice. 



Must do 

BEST OF JAPAN GOURMET TOUR 

Taste flavours from the north and south of the 

country in a 90-minute spin round some of the 

best food shops and restaurants located in the 

Coredo Muramachi shopping centre. This is a 

learning experience with small samples from 

each outlet, but you can head back to your 

favourite spots in the centre armed with new 

culinary knowledge. 

nihonbashi-info.jp/omotenashi/gourmet.html 

IMPERIAL PALACE 

The Imperial Palace and its gardens are just 

a short walk from Nihonbashi’s bridge. The 

palace is built on the former site of Edo Castle 

and is surrounded by moats and stone walls. It’s 

the residence of Japan’s imperial family, so the 

inner grounds are only open to the public on 

two days a year (23 December, the Emperor’s 

birthday, and 2 January); however, the Palace 

East Gardens are fully accessible to the public. 

japan-guide.com/e/e3017.html 

Where to eat 

SUSHI SORA 

The sushi experience at Sushi Sora is a 

culinary education in the district that gave 

birth to Edomae-style sushi. Master chef Yuji 

Imaizumi prepares rice and fish on the ancient 

wood counter in front of you, turning them 

into sushi masterpieces. mandarinoriental. 

com/tokyo/fine-dining/sushi-sora 

TEN-ICHI 

For tempura heaven, sit at the counter and 

watch as the chef delicately dips fresh fish and 

vegetables into batter, before deep frying and 

serving them up, piece by individual piece. 

Don’t dither over photos — this stuff should 

be eaten hot, hot, hot. tenichi.co.jp 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: 

Looking down Dotonbori 

canal; spa, Mandarin 

Oriental; Imperial 

Temple; Sushi Sora; chef, 

Sushi Sora 

TAPAS MOLECULAR BAR 

This tiny eight-seat, one Michelin-starred bar 

loffers molecular cuisine, sushi bar-style. Chef 

Ngan Ping Chow presents a fusion of Japanese 

and Western cuisines that play with modern 

cookery techniques to produce a truly 

interactive experience. mandarinoriental.com/ 

tokyo/fine-dining/tapas-molecular-bar 



Where to shop 

MITSUKOSHI DEPARTMENT STORE 

Set in a stunning stone building, this flagship store 

offers daily pipe organ concerts and year-end choral 

performances. The basement food hall is a gasp-a-minute 

gourmet delight where you can sample pickles, rice 

crackers, hams, sausages, mochi (chewy rice cakes) and the 

like. mitsukoshi.mistore.jp/store/nihombashi 

OZU WASHI 

This traditional Japanese washi paper shop sells high-grade 

paper for painting, calligraphy and origami. Pull out drawers 

to find screen-printed glories that look marvellous when 

framed. The site includes a gallery and a studio where you 

can make your own washi paper. ozuwashi.net/en 

IBASEN 

Making beautifully, brightly coloured uchiwa (Japanese 

fans) for more than 400 years, Ibasen features calligraphy 

and Japanese art in its designs. Traditionally used for 

keeping cool, fanning away insects, keeping a flame lit and 

more, these wondrous objects are now most often pinned 

to walls to display their full glory. ibasen.com/world_wide 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Japanese-style knives; counter, Mitsukoshi 

Department Store; Presidential Suite, Mandarin Oriental 

BRING IT HOME 

KATSUOBUSHI (DRIED BONITO) 

Ninben has been a part of Nihonbashi 

for more than 300 years selling dried 

bonito flakes, a traditional component 

of the Japanese diet. Katsuobushi is 

dried tuna, shaved into delicate flakes. 

It’s often used as a food topping or 

boiled in water to create dashi (stock). 

The shop contains a dashi bar, selling 

soup and rice dishes. ninben.co.jp 

JAPANESE KNIVES 

Nihonbashi Kiya — the Kiya Cutlery 

Shop — has been around since 1792 

and sells Japanese-forged steel knives. 

Marvel at the array of task specific 

knives before opting for the one that 

suits you best for kitchen use. The 

walls are also lined with kitchen knick 

knacks such as peelers, scrubbers and 

strainers. kiya-hamono.co.jp/english 

GOURMET TREATS 

Head to the Mitsukoshi depachika 

(food hall) for dried goods, pickles and 

seasonings. Snaffle some free samples 

and grab a picnic for the plane home. 

mitsukoshi.mistore.jp/store/nihombashi 

Where to stay 

MANDARIN ORIENTAL 

The Mandarin Oriental features 179 guest 

rooms and suites over six floors of the 

38-storey Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, and 

these, as well as most restaurants, bars, spa 

and even some toilets, afford spectacular 

views of greater Tokyo and beyond (you can 

see Mount Fuji from certain points). A 37thfloor 

spa offers four treatment rooms plus hot 

tubs that look out across the city. 

HOW TO DO IT: Rooms at the Mandarin 

Oriental Tokyo begin at £380 per night. 

Rates do fluctuate and are subject to an 

8% consumption tax, 15% service charge 

and accommodation tax of 200 Japanese 

yen (roughly £1.50) per person, per night. 

mandarinoriental.com/tokyo 

Flights with Japan Airlines, from Heathrow 

to Tokyo Haneda, start at £819 direct return. 

Promotional flights are sometimes available and 

can often begin as low as £480 for an indirect 

return flight. uk.jal.com 


JAL MOMENTS 

Welcoming you aboard with authentic 

Japanese hospitality and making your every moment 

with us an unforgettable experience. JAL. 

Premium comfort for body and mind. JAL International Premium Economy Class, JAL SKY PREMIUM 

Visit our website www.uk.jal.com

ASK THE 

EXPERTS 

NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP? 

ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS, 

TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL 

GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS… 

Q // I’ve booked flights 

to Tbilisi for an active 

summer break in 

Georgia. I’ve never 

been. Where would 

you recommend I go? 

Straddling eastern Europe 

and western Asia, Georgia is 

largely defined by the Caucasus 

Mountains. Not many people 

realise that it’s home to Europe’s 

second highest peak, Mount 

Shkhara (17,060ft), which is 

actually higher than Mont Blanc. 

For anyone looking for an 

active holiday, in a destination 

unspoilt by today’s modern 

tourism, the country should be on 

the top of their list. Summer is the 

best time of the year to visit, with 

sunny but cool days making the 

weather ideal for exploring. 

Top experiences include 

crossing narrow green valleys 

to get up close to impressive 

glaciers, cycling through lunar 

semi-desert landscapes, 

exploring rock-hewn settlements 

such as Uplistsikhe (in eastern 

Georgia) and Vardzia (to the 

south), and enjoying unspoilt 

wilderness in the country’s many 

national parks and reserves. 

The epic Georgian Military 

Highway, widely regarded as one 

of the most beautiful mountain 

roads in the world, will take you 

close to the border with Russia 

and the town of Stepantsminda. 

This is the gateway to Gergeti 

Trinity Church — silhouetted 

against Mount Kazbek, it’s one of 

Georgia’s most iconic images and 

the view makes the three-hour 

steep hike worth it. 

The highest permanently 

inhabited village in Europe can 

also be found in Georgia: Ushguli, 

located at an altitude of 7,218ft, is 

snow-covered for six months of 

the year and is often cut off from 

the rest of the world. 

If you work up an appetite 

after all this activity, do try some 

of the local delicacies, such as 

khachapuri, an oval-shaped, 

cheese-filled bread, and khinkali, 

Georgia’s take on dumplings. 

Finally, bear in mind that the 

country is one of the oldest 

wine producing regions in the 

world, dating back more than 

7,000 years. In fact, the word 

‘wine’ comes from the Georgian 

word for it: ‘gvino’. It may be 

little known in much of the 

world but Georgian wine is very 

much sought after in the former 

Soviet Union states, so give it a 

go — there are around 40 grape 

varieties to choose from. 

GORDON STEER 

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY 


Q // Will the laptop 

ban on flights affect 

my travel plans? 

Q // I hear the EU is 

putting an end to 

roaming charges. How 

will this affect UK 

holidaymakers? 

Following the USA’s lead, the UK 

announced in March that gadgets 

larger than 6.3x3.6x0.6in must be 

put in hold luggage on inbound 

flights from Turkey, Saudi Arabia, 

Jordan, Lebanon, Egypt and 

Tunisia. This applies if your 

flight stops over in one of 

these countries, too. 

Stowing e-readers, 

laptops and tablets 

means relying on inflight 

entertainment or 

Charging consumers huge bills for 

crossing borders across Europe 

is about to change. From 15 June, 

you’ll pay the same price as at 

home to use your mobile phone 

anywhere within the EU — for 

calls, texts and data — after the 

European Parliament, Council 

and Commission agreed on a deal 

earlier this year after a decadelong 

process. 

According to the European 

Commission, prices for roaming 

calls, SMS and data have fallen 

by 80% since 2007, and data 

roaming is now up to 91% 

books — an inconvenience 

for business travellers and 

young families in particular. 

Another problem is insurance: 

historically, most policies haven’t 

covered gadgets in the hold due 

to the higher risk of damage 

or theft. However, companies 

including Saga and Holiday 

Extras have responded quickly 

with appropriate new policies. 

More stringent restrictions 

apply on flights from 10 Middle 

Eastern countries to the USA, and 

it’s thought Australia may soon 

implement gadget restrictions 

too. Stay up to date by checking 

gov.uk, and check with your airline 

if you have concerns. 

AMELIA DUGGAN 

cheaper compared to 10 years 

ago. Prices have gradually fallen 

over the years with travellers, 

in the EU at least, no longer 

receiving extortionate bills for 

making the odd phone call or 

checking their emails. 

Of course, this kicks in just 

as the UK triggers Article 50 

and begins its negotiations to 

leave the EU, so we may only 

benefit for the remainder of our 

membership; depending on 

the terms of departure. 

ec.europa.eu 

PAT RIDDELL 

Health corner 

Q // I’m travelling to sub- 

Saharan Africa. Should 

I be concerned about 

clean drinking water? 

The first thing to say is that not all 

water in sub-Saharan Africa is bad. 

Check the reliability of a tap water 

source with trusted local users 

such as NGOs and overlanders’ 

campsites. If in doubt, bottled 

water is widely available; just be 

sure to check the seal. About 25% 

of ‘bottled water’ worldwide is 

simply filled from the tap. 

In more remote regions, 

especially in the Sahel and central 

African states, carry your own 

purification means, be it a handoperated 

mini-filter (Katadyn 

are excellent) or a vehicle-based, 

higher volume filter. 

Other methods of purification 

include chlorine-based tablets or 

2% tincture of iodine. 

The simplest method of 

purifying water is boiling it for at 

least three minutes after filtering 

visible debris through a cloth, 

though beware of the lowered 

boiling point of water at altitude. 

DR PAT GARROD 

Q // Where can I 

travel to for the best 

chance of seeing 

icebergs calving? 

To see icebergs calving from their 

mother glaciers, get yourself to 

Greenland, during April/May. The 

season runs April–September 

but the earlier on you travel, the 

better chance you have of seeing 

the big bergs being born and, 

potentially, the Northern Lights 

still in action. That said, most 

Greenland tours and cruises take 

place later in the summer when 

the sea ice has broken for the 

season and boats can pass. 

This is a seasonal happening 

although with global warming, 

Greenland’s glaciers are losing 

ice at record rates. Go to 

YouTube to see a now legendary 

2008 film of the Ilulissat (or 

Jakobshavn) Glacier calving a 

chunk some three-miles wide. 

Head to Ilulissat, if not to see 

quite such a dramatic event, to 

hike the Sermermiut ice fjord 

for fantastic views of colossal 

icebergs. Regional operators 

also offer flightseeing tours 

and boat trips. For more 

info, including tours, go to: 

greenland.com SARAH BARRELL 

THE EXPERTS 

GORDON STEER // 

UK MANAGER, 

WORLD EXPEDITIONS 

WORLDEXPEDITIONS.COM 

AMELIA DUGGAN // 

ASSISTANT EDITOR, NATIONAL 

GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER 

SARAH BARRELL // 

ASSOCIATE EDITOR, NATIONAL 


PAT RIDDELL // 

EDITOR, NATIONAL 


DR PAT GARROD // 

TRAVEL AUTHOR 

THEWORLDOVERLAND.COM 


TRAVEL GEEKS 

THE INFO 

TRANSATLANTIC BUDGET BATTLE 

LOOKING TO CROSS THE POND THIS SUMMER? THERE’S A NEW NO-FRILLS 

AIRLINE IN TOWN: LEVEL, LAUNCHED BY BRITISH AIRWAYS’ OWNERS. BUT 

HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO BUDGET BIG SHOTS NORWEGIAN AND WOW AIR? 

@FLYWITHLEVELEN 

MAR 18 

On our second day of “life” Hello 

world! Yesterday we hit record 

sales: 52,000 tickets sold. Wow! 

Fly from 

Barcelona to... 

USA // FROM 1 JUNE 

BCN-LAX // TWICE A WEEK 

USA // FROM 2 JUNE 

BCN-OAK // THREE TIMES A WEEK 

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC // FROM 10 JUNE 

BCN-PUJ // TWICE A WEEK 

ARGENTINA // FROM 17 JUNE 

BCN-EZE // THREE TIMES A WEEK 

FROM 

£85 

ONE WAY FLYLEVEL.COM 

FRESH DEALS 

NORWEGIAN // One way to Seattle and Denver 

from Gatwick, starting September. 

WOW AIR // One way to Chicago from Bristol, 

Edinburgh and Gatwick from July. 

21 premium 

economy 

seats 

£155 

£139 

Level’s two new 

Airbus A330 

BASIC FARES COMPARED 

LEVEL: LEVEL 

1 carry-on bag of 17x13x10in — no 

weight limit // personal screen // 

30in seat pitch // collect Avios 

293 

economy 

seats 

Norwegian’s long-haul flights 

are operated by Boeing’s 

787 Dreamliner or 737 MAX 

aircraft — said to be up to 

25% more fuel-efficient than 

their older counterparts 

30” 

why the 

SLASHED 

prices? 

Aircraft are becoming 

more fuel-efficient 

Increased competition is 

driving prices down 

Charging for extras 

— such as snacks and 

luggage — allows for 

cheaper fares 

IN THE LOOP 

Sign up for airlines’ 

email updates and get 

a heads-up on when 

to bag bargain tickets 

NORWEGIAN: LOW FARE 

1 carry-on bag of 22x15x9in 10kg 

// 1 personal item of 10x13x8in // 

personal screen // 32in seat pitch 

WHO? 

NORWEGIAN currently operates 

direct routes from the UK to seven 

US cities: New York, Boston, 

Orlando, Fort Lauderdale, Los 

Angeles, Las Vegas and Oakland. 

It has sold flights across the pond 

from the UK starting at £69. 

norwegian.com 

WOW AIR flies to nine North 

American cities from the UK via 

its Reykjavik hub: Pittsburgh, New 

York, Washington DC, Boston, 

Montreal, Toronto, Miami, Los 

Angeles and San Francisco. This 

year, Wow Air sold seats to New 

York for under £60. wowair.com 

32” 31” 

WOW AIR: WOW BASIC 

1 personal item of 17x13x10in 

10kg // 31in seat pitch // 

universal plug 


TRAVEL GEEKS 

HOT TOPIC 

IS IT TIME FOR ZOOS TO BE BANNED? 

A HANGOVER OF THE VICTORIAN SIDESHOW OR AN INTEGRAL PART OF 

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION? WE ASK IF ZOOS SHOULD BE CONSIGNED TO THE 

HISTORY BOOKS ALONG WITH THE BEARDED LADY. WORDS: JAMES DRAVEN 

The polar bears in Winnipeg 

have disco poo. Their 

droppings look like 

little glitterballs. 

Before anyone starts 

sprinkling the stuff on 

their cornflakes, this isn’t the 

hottest new beauty trend nor 

is it a natural phenomenon: 

Assiniboine Park Zoo’s 

keepers use coloured glitter 

in the bears’ feed to identify 

their droppings. 

Why? Well, scat reveals 

all sorts of things about 

individual animals; 

information the keepers 

share with the scientific 

community. Many 

zoos conduct such 

studies, and also run 

captive breeding 

programmes for 

endangered species. 

However, critics say 

this doesn’t justify 

their existence. 

“Zoos are prisons for 

animals, camouflaging 

their cruelty with 

conservation claims,” 

Mimi Bekhechi, 

director of international 

programmes at PETA, 

explains. “Animals in zoos 

suffer tremendously, both 

physically and mentally. 

They often display 

neurotic behaviour, 

like repetitive pacing, 

swaying, and bar 

biting. Not surprising, perhaps, 

considering the typical polar 

bear enclosure is one 

million times smaller 

than the area they would 

naturally roam.” 

PETA isn’t alone. In April, 

ethical tour operator Responsible 

Travel — after consultation 

with wildlife charity Born Free 

Foundation — axed trips that 

include zoo visits. It’s the first 

travel company to publicly make 

such a move. 

“Only 15% of the thousands 

of species held in zoos are 

considered ‘threatened’,” says 

Will Travers OBE, president 

of Born Free. “An even 

smaller proportion are 

part of captive breeding 

programmes and, of 

those, a tiny fraction 

have been released back 

into the wild. That’s not a 

record that justifies tens 

of millions of wild animals 

kept in zoos.” 

PETA’s Bekhechi adds, the 

aim of breeding programmes 

is just “to produce baby 

animals to attract visitors.” 

Some, however, argue that 

children benefit from zoos. 

“We engage huge audiences 

with wildlife, inspiring the 

conservationists of tomorrow,” 

argues zoological director of 

ZSL London and Whipsnade 

Zoos, Professor David Field. 

That claim is up for debate. 

Q& 

A 

HOW DO I TELL A ZOO FROM 

A SANCTUARY? 

The Global Federation of Animal 

Sanctuaries (GFAS) operates 

an accreditation system for 

sanctuaries, rescue centres and 

rehabilitation centres. Look out 

for the GFAS seal of approval. 

sanctuaryfederation.org/gfas 

SO IT’S BETTER TO HAVE ‘CLOSE 

ENCOUNTERS’ WITH ANIMALS IN 

THE WILD, RIGHT? 

Wrong! Step away from the 

selfie stick. Don’t be suckered 

into supporting companies that 

offer experiences like hugging a 

tiger, swimming with dolphins, 

riding elephants, or snogging 

a shark. These experiences are 

often harmful to wildlife and 

dangerous for you. 

HOW DO WE SAVE WILDLIFE IF 

NOT BY BREEDING PROGRAMMES? 

PETA says: “People who care 

about protecting endangered 

species should donate to 

organisations that safeguard 

them in their natural habitats — if 

a species’ native environment has 

been destroyed, there’s nowhere 

left for the animals to go.” 

A 2014 study by the Society 

for Conservation Biology found 

that of over 2,800 children 

surveyed following visits to 

London Zoo, 62% showed no 

positive learning outcomes. 

But, for every story that casts 

zoos in a bad light — from Vince 

the rhino’s poaching at Paris’ 

Thoiry Zoo in March; Cincinnati 

Zoo shooting endangered gorilla, 

Harambe, last year after a child fell 

into his enclosure; or Copenhagen 

Zoo killing and publicly dissecting 

Marius, a two-year-old giraffe in 

2014 — there are heart-warming 

tales too. Zoos across the US 

can take credit for reviving the 

wild Arabian oryx, golden lion 

tamarin and Californian condor 

populations, among many others. 

And Steve Irwin’s Australia Zoo has 

an on-site Wildlife Hospital to save 

sick and injured native species. 

In the age of social media, high 

profile culls have sparked heated 

debates. The shooting of Harambe 

the gorilla spawned the mostshared 

meme of 2016 and caused 

a hounded Cincinnati Zoo to 

suspend its social media accounts. 

When it comes to lethal force and 

animal welfare, at least, public 

opinion swiftly sides against zoos. 

But whether recent events 

have triggered a profound shift in 

public consciousness is harder to 

quantify. Regardless of the merits 

or ethics of zoos, one thing’s for 

certain: they’re going to be around 

for some years yet. 

AND ANOTHER THING... BLOCKBUSTER DESTINATIONS 

IMAGE: GETTY 

KONG: SKULL ISLAND 

Experience Travel Group 

have created a twoweek 

tour of the March 

blockbuster’s locations 

including Halong Bay 

and the Tam Coc caves. 

experiencetravelgroup.com 

LA LA LAND 

The City of Angels is 

encouraging visitors to 

recreate movie magic at 

the Oscar-winning film’s 

LA locations, including 

Griffith Observatory. 

discoverlosangeles.com 

NERUDA 

Pablo Larraín’s biopic 

of Chilean poet Pablo 

Neruda hit cinemas. 

Tread in his footsteps 

with British Airways’ new 

direct flights to Santiago. 

ba.com 

THE GREAT WALL 

Do-over Matt Damon’s 

sci-fi flop with Wendy 

Wu Tours’ new active 

Discover Tours, which 

access more remote 

sections of the Great Wall. 

wendywutours.co.uk 

... AND 

Warner Bros Studios 

London launched its new 

Forbidden Forest tour 

for April, where Potter 

fans can interact with an 

animatronic Buckbeak. 

wbstudiotour.co.uk 


TRAVEL GEEKS 

CHECKLIST: 

POLARISED SUNGLASSES 

DRAGON ALLIANCE 

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RRP: £220 

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SEE THE MIDNIGHT SUN 

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PERSOL 

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RRP: £243 

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FOSTER GRANT 

Juliet Pol 

RRP: £22.50 

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RAY-BAN 

RB2183 

RRP: £170 

ray-ban.com 

OAKLEY 

Reverie Polarized 

RRP: £160 

uk.oakley.com 

1// THE ‘SECRET’ FESTIVAL 

New events at Iceland’s Secret Solstice music 

festival (16-18 June) include an acoustic 

performance in 5,000-year-old subterranean 

lava tunnels, a dance party inside a glacier and 

a midnight sun boat party outside Helsinki, 

complete with DJs, a cocktail bar and the 

chance to spot whales. The never-ending 

sun will light up such acts as Foo Fighters, 

The Prodigy, and the grand dame of R&B 

renaissance, Chaka Khan. secretsolstice.is 

2// THE EPIC SCANDI RAIL JOURNEY 

Ride the rails from Sweden’s Arctic 

to Norway’s fjords aboard trains that 

offer front-row seats to spectacular 

wilderness. Board the Arctic Circle 

Train from Stockholm to Narvik, 

travelling along Sweden’s Baltic coast 

to beyond the Arctic Circle. Continue 

aboard the Northern Railway to 

Norway’s coast, before the final 

stretch, on the Dovre Railway, 

through Norway’s national parks, to 

Oslo. May-August, eight nights from 

£1,425 per person. simpysweden.co.uk 

3// THE YEAR-ROUND ICEHOTEL 

This summer, it’s the first chance 

to experience a stay under ice and 

midnight sun, at the new Icehotel 

365. The Icehotel’s innovative, yearround 

sister property, which opened 

last year, uses sustainable energy 

from the midnight sun for a yearround 

igloo experience. icehotel.com 

4// DRIVE TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD 

Hire an RV in Whitehorse, gateway 

city to Canadian Gold Rush country, 

and follow the North Klondike 

MIDNIGHT 

SUN 

for dummies 

WHEN 

End of May to the 

beginning of August 

WHERE 

The further you travel 

north, the longer the 

days; up to 24 hours of 

sunlight above the Arctic 

Circle, and almost that in 

bordering regions 

WHAT TO PACK 

Your camera. The 

midnight sun’s golden 

glow is the most 

memorable part of any 

trip north, accentuating 

colours and lengthening 

shadows. Lots of scope 

for creative photography 

Highway to Dawson City, before crossing the 

Yukon River by ferry to follow the scenic Top 

of the World Highway to Alaska. Returning to 

Whitehorse, don’t miss Kluane National Park, 

one of North America’s great grizzly bearpopulated 

wildernesses. travelyukon.com 

5// THE PRETTY CITY BREAK 

Celebrate what Finns call the ‘nightless night’ 

in Helsinki where, on Midsummer Eve, locals 

head to nearby island cabins. Try Seurasaari, 

an island specialising in traditional 

celebrations: spirit-appeasing 

bonfires and folk dancing. Also check 

out Löyly on Helsinki’s waterfront 

— a new, smoke-heated public 

sauna. visithelsinki.fi 

6// THE REMOTE ISLAND RETREAT 

The dramatic mountain setting of the 

Lofoten Islands, a large archipelago 

inside the Arctic Circle, is a place 

where ‘drying racks’ still stand 

outside rorbuer (fisherman’s cottages), 

just as they have done since Viking 

times. The village of Eggum comes 

with an amphitheatre-shaped space, 

designed by the architects of Oslo’s 

Opera House, with views of the open 

sea. visitnorway.com 

7// THE CULTURAL ESCAPE 

Wander along canals in a dusky light 

that never quite fades to black during 

the White Nights of St Petersburg. 

From the second week of June to the 

first week of July, the Russian city has 

24-hour museum openings, outdoor 

ballet, fireworks and DJ sets until dawn 

at clubs Taiga and Contour Family Loft. 

visit-petersburg.ru SARAH BARRELL 

IMAGE: ALAMY 


TRAVEL GEEKS 

Tech traveer 

TECHNOLOGY 

REPORTER FOR @BBCCLICK 

AND AUTHOR OF WORKING THE CLOUD, 

KATE RUSSELL PICKS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS 

SURFING AT 36,000 FEET 

TOP APPS FOR... 

mapping 

Wi-fi took off years ago but if 

you join the Mile High (surf) 

club, you still need to be aware 

of the security risks, and skyhigh 

costs attached 

In-flight wi-fi has been available 

for a little over 10 years, but is it 

worth the inflated connection 

charges imposed by most carriers? 

The first issue is safety. I’ve 

spoken before about the danger 

of using public wi-fi hotspots, 

and these warnings go double 

for in-flight connections. 

Without password 

protection 

(paid services 

direct you to 

a registration 

and payment 

website after 

connecting), there’s no 

privacy for the raw traffic 

carried across the network. 

That means anyone intent on 

reading your data, including 

personal details entered in online 

forms, can do so with relative ease. 

It does require the equipment 

and intent to hack into people’s 

devices, but an extended flight 

is the ideal place for this covert 

criminal activity. Using a VPN (I 

covered these security tools in 

the Jan/Feb issue and online at 

ngtr.uk/2jxGLwv) affords users a 

layer of protection; however, most 

in-flight service providers block 

the use of commercial VPN apps 

— presumably to stop passengers 

looking at objectionable material 

and to aid their own marketingrelated 

data collection. Using a 

VPN provided by your business 

should probably work, though. 

The second issue is speed. 

Currently, most aeroplane wi-fi 

services provide a tiny amount of 

bandwidth — about one-tenth the 

speed of a halfway decent 

4G connection 

— and that has 

to be shared by 

all passengers. 

This will make 

websites load 

very slowly and 

streaming video 

impossible, so you’re better 

off downloading content to 

watch offline before you leave 

home. With charges often billed 

by the amount of megabytes used, 

it will also get very expensive if 

you’re doing anything data-heavy, 

but if you can’t resist Snapchatting 

from seat 52A, make sure your 

device is running up-to-date 

antivirus and firewall software, and 

avoid sharing personal data that 

could lead to identity theft. 

WALTER 

IOS, FREE. Maps are great but sometimes just 

wandering around a city will reveal its hidden 

treasures. Walter is a smart compass that works 

without an internet connection. Instead of pointing 

north, south, east or west, it directs you towards 

sights, shops, restaurants and bars within 20 

minutes’ walk of your location. triposo.com/walter 

MAPS.ME 

IOS/ANDROID, FREE. Save roaming data costs by 

downloading map data for the area you’re visiting 

to use offline and on the move. maps.me 

WIFI MAP 

IOS/ANDROID, FREE. Find local wi-fi access points, 

including password information where needed, 

crowd-sourced by users of the app. wifimap.io 

MOOVIT 

IOS/ANDROID, FREE. Find your way around over 

1,200 cities in 70-plus countries using public transit 

links. Includes real-time updates and travel alerts. 

moovitapp.com 

GET THE GADGET 

Olloclip Core Lens 

Gone are the days when 

photography buffs had to carry 

around large padded bags full 

of delicate lenses. Modern 

smartphone cameras are so good 

you can capture most scenes with 

just a couple of taps, and with the 

latest Olloclip core lens adapters 

to fit iPhone 7 and 7 Plus, the 

untrained eye would be hard- 

pushed to 

say which 

were taken 

on a phone 

instead of an 

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This neat little clip houses 

three separate lenses which 

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they fit on both the forward and 

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any application — stills, video, 

time-lapse, panorama and even 

360-VR — that uses your phone’s 

camera. The neat plastic carry 

clip can be worn on the lanyard 

around your neck and even folds 

out to create a mini tripod. 

RRP: £99.99. olloclip.com 

@katerussell 

katerussell.co.uk 


TRAVEL GEEKS 

HOW I GOT THESE SHOTS 

PORTRAITS IN PUGLIA 

NICO AVELARDI, PHOTOGRAPHER OF OUR PUGLIA FEATURE ON P.92, 

EXPLAINS HOW HE CAPTURED THE SPIRIT OF THE REGION THROUGH 

HIS PORTRAITS OF THE LOCALS ON THE SALENTO PENINSULA 

LIKE THIS? READ MORE 

Similar features can be found in our free, 

digital-only Photography Magazine. Issue 8 

out now. iOS/Google Play/Amazon 

I travelled south from Bari around 

the heel, looking to capture its 

fine landscapes, fascinating towns, 

amazing food and, of course, the 

locals that make this region so 

unique. I tend to include people in 

most of my shots — they’re the 

soul of a destination and culture 

— and Salento was no different. 

When I see a potential subject, 

I visualise them in a close-up 

portrait. I approach them and 

make conversation about the 

place we’re in, what I’m doing or 

more casual topics. 

For close-ups, I set a wide 

aperture — up to f5.6 — as I want 

a shallow depth of field to make 

the subject stand out from the 

background. I shoot at a 50-70mm 

focal length, so I can work more 

When the subjects are 

comfortable, I start 

shooting and get 

physically very close 

in order to fill the 

frame, but it’s 

important to detect 

if and when the 

connection ends 

intimately with them. I fine-focus 

on the eyes to create a connection 

with the image, while emphasising 

details, such as wrinkles or 

defined eyebrows. 

I never start shooting straight 

away; I spend time with the subject 

to allow them to get used to me 

— it can take any time from one 

minute to hours. I also use this 

time to find the best light and 

angles to work from. Once I feel 

the moment is right, I ask for 

permission to photograph them. 

These two portraits are a great 

example of how I adapt my 

approach to different situations 

and subjects. I photographed the 

man with the glasses in the town 

of Calimera while I was searching 

for elders who still speak Griko 

— a local dialect of Italiot Greek. 

He was comfortable with me 

taking his portrait fairly quickly. 

On the other hand, for the man 

with the cigarette in the town of 

Nardò, it took over half an hour to 

even approach him. He was part 

of a group of men relaxing in the 

main square. He was very quiet, 

so I spoke to his friends at first 

until I could get him involved in 

the conversation. 

I don’t direct my subjects at all, 

leaving it up to them to show me 

who they are. And I never 

overstay my welcome — if I feel 

they’re becoming uncomfortable, 

that’s my cue to stop. 

nicoavelardi.com 

@nico.avelardi 



Florida 

A RIVER RUNS 

THROUGH IT 

Get to know Florida’s 

watery heart on and in 

the rivers of Columbia, 

Levy and Gilchrist 

Counties, where active 

pursuits will put you in 

touch with your wild side 

Gilchrist County 

Paddle the 55-mile Blueway Trail, a series of 50 crystal-clear 

freshwater springs teeming with wildlife. Canoe or kayak 

through wetland and over the blackwater Suwannee River. 

Ginnie Springs, on the Santa Fe River, meanwhile, is one of 

the clearest freshwater springs in the world. Conservationist 

Jacques-Yves Cousteau summed them up in two words: 

‘visibility forever’. You can cave dive or swim in the water, 

which changes from a mesmerising turquoise to a deep blue. 

Columbia County 

In O’Leno State Park, ease into a drowsy vibe by hopping 

in a canoe and slipping down the scenic Santa Fe 

River. There are hammocks to laze in and pavilions for 

picnicking in, but if you prefer to speed things up, trails 

can be explored on foot or by bike. Thrill-seekers should 

head to Ichetucknee Springs State Park to tube down the 

river, which flows past shady wetlands. But don’t towel 

off — you can snorkel or scuba dive in the otherworldly 

Blue Hole Spring, reached via a wooded nature trail. 

Levy County 

Cedar Key’s sleepy houses are 

perched on stilts above the Gulf 

of Mexico, which harbours the 

island’s claim to fame: shellfish. 

Learn about aquaculture with 

fishing communities before eating 

the freshest clams, shrimps or blue 

crabs for dinner, surrounded by 

beaches, green islands and wildlife. 

Other aquatic escapades include 

scuba diving in the prehistoric 

Devil’s Den Resort & Springs, found 

within a dry cave featuring ancient 

rock formations. The warm cavern 

pool sinks to 60ft below ground 

and steams on cold mornings. 

GILCHRIST COUNTY visitgilchristcounty.com T: 00 1 352 463 3198 

COLUMBIA COUNTY springsrus.com T: 00 1 386 758 1312 

LEVY COUNTY visitlevy.com T: 00 1 352 486 3396


IN THE LAP 

OF LUXURY 

Take a look inside Singapore’s newest fivestar 

offering, Andaz Singapore 

Opening its doors later this summer, Andaz 

Singapore promises to be one of the city’s 

leading luxury getaways. Cutting-edge 

design, a refreshing take on hospitality and 

impeccable facilities single out this five-star 

hotel as a clear choice for luxury travellers. 

Situated in the buzzing Kampong Glam, 

Andaz impresses from the outside with its 

stunning honeycomb lattice exterior — the 

work of renowned architect Ole Scheeren. 

Soaring 610ft into the sky, the hotel sits at 

the heart of DUO — a modern, mixed-use 

development, offering spectacular views 

of both the ocean and the glittering city 

skyline. At ground level, the Bugis MRT 

station is close at hand, meaning getting to 

and from the airport is simple — a boon for 

business and leisure travellers alike. 

Guests can unwind in one of 342 sumptuous 

rooms and suites created by Hong Kong 

designer Andre Fu, with warm hues of russet 

and mustard inspired by traditional Indian 

and Malay handicrafts. Also on offer is a host 

of first-class facilities: a clutch of must-try 

restaurants awaits, with a range of cuisines 

at Alley on 25 and the creative twist on the 

traditional pandan chiffon cake at Pandan is a 

must-try. There’s a 24hr fitness centre in which 

to work up a sweat, and the infinity pool on the 

25th floor is the perfect spot to unwind and 

soak up the views. But for some of the best 

vistas in town, the rooftop bar is the place to 

go — it’s ideal for unwinding with a cocktail 

and 360-degree views of Singapore. 

Just a 20 minute drive from the airport 

and two minutes from the CBD, Marina 

Bay and all the dining and entertainment 

Singapore has to offer, Andaz is set to make 

its luxurious mark on the city’s hotel scene. 

ANDAZ SINGAPORE, 

5 Fraser Street, Singapore, Rep. of Singapore, 

189354 E: singapore@andaz.com 

andazsingapore.com

COMING IN THE 

JUL/AUG ISSUE 

Come on in, set down your suitcase. Welcome to the first Big 

Sleep Awards! With the help of our readers and a panel of judges, 

we’ve selected the cream of the accommodation crop. Join us as 

we salute the taste-makers and game-changers of the hotel world 

Plus // Maldives, Kenya, Jamaica, Doha, 

Luxembourg, Barcelona & Bali 

On sale 1 June 2017 

IMAGE: GETTY 

For more information on our subscription offers, 

see page 184 



DUBAI: RETURN TO THE WILD 

FAR FROM BEING A BARREN WILDERNESS, THE ARABIAN DESERT IS FULL OF LIFE. 

WHAT’S MORE, THANKS TO THE DUBAI DESERT CONSERVATION RESERVE, VISITORS 

TO THE EMIRATE CAN EXPERIENCE IT FOR THEMSEVELVES. WORDS: LAURA HOLT 

Night is falling in the Dubai 

desert. This golden 

landscape of slowly shifting 

sands feels a world away from the 

mega malls and high-rise hotels at 

the heart of this ever-expanding 

emirate. Yet, I find myself 

hankering for just a glimmer of that 

garish light, as I take my first 

driving lesson amid the forbidding 

desert darkness. 

Behind the wheel of a sturdy 

Nissan Xterra, I wait at the bottom 

of a vast dune, ready to surmount 

it. The trick, I’m told, is to 

accelerate up fast, taking my foot 

off the pedal just before I reach the 

top, allowing the vehicle to glide 

over. But tonight, there’ll be no 

gliding for me. I try it once, 

twice, three times… and get 

consummately stuck in the sand, 

forcing a hasty retreat back down. 

The convoy of 4x4s fares no better, 

so it’s down to Greg Simkins, 

conservation manager of the Dubai 

Desert Conservation Reserve 

(DDCR), to show us how it’s done. 

Slamming his foot down, he shoots 

the trucks up and over the dune 

with ease, whisking us back to 

camp just in time for dinner. 

This is all in a day’s work for 

Greg, who navigates this web of 

delicate trails on a daily basis, as 

part of his job managing the 87sq 

mile DDCR. Opened in 2003, the 

reserve was set up by two of the 

emirate’s wealthiest men: the 

chairman of Emirates airline, 

Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al 

Maktoum and the current ruler of 

Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed bin 

Rashid Al Maktoum. Covering 5% 

of the state’s total landmass, the 

reserve’s aim is to protect the 

natural environment and 

encourage biodiversity through, 

among other things, the 

propagation and reintroduction of 

‘rare and endangered species’. 

It all started with Al Maha 

Resort, a luxury desert hotel 

owned by Sheikh Ahmed’s 

Emirates Group. Greg started work 

at the resort as a guide, taking 

guests on falconry excursions, 

dune experiences and camel trips, 

before hearing of an opening in the 

conservation side of the business. 

He switched roles and, in 

2001, wrote a report on 

environmental conditions in the 

area, recommending it be 

designated a protected reserve. 

The result was the DDCR and, 

over the next few years, small 

populations of Arabian oryx, two 

types of fox (red and sand), several 

feline species (caracal and 

Gordon’s wildcats) and various 

gazelles (sand and Arabian) were 

steadily reintroduced into the 

reserve. These species were once 

native to the Arabian Peninsula, 

but many years of accelerated 

development in Dubai, which not 

so long ago was all pristine desert, 

saw animal numbers dwindle and 

disperse. In the case of the Arabian 

oryx, it faced complete extinction 

in the wild by the 1970s, only to be 

saved by reserves such as this one. 

More recently, the DDCR has 

entered a new phase, teaming up 

with wildlife conservation NGO, 

Biosphere Expeditions. Operating 

in 13 locations around the world, 

Biosphere invites laymen, such 

as myself, to assist scientists, 

such as Greg, in collecting data, 

while visiting a new destination 

and studying the local wildlife. 

Every trip has a so-called ‘target 

species’, from primates in Peru to 

snow leopards in Kyrgyzstan. 

Biosphere was set up by 

Matthias Hammer, a no-nonsense, 

straight-talking German with a 

military background, who now 

spends his time travelling the 

world, often sporting bare feet and 

a brightly-coloured sarong. He 

joins me for my trip and is keen to 

get across Biosphere’s antiinstitutional 

approach. “You’re 

‘participants’, not tourists. We’re 

an ‘NGO’, not a company. And this 

is an ‘expedition’, not a holiday,” 

he says, unequivocally, as we 

gather on the first day. 

This may sound a little joyless, 

but things perk up as we learn 

about the tasks ahead. The DDCR 

office is to be our base, Greg tells 

us. We’ll be divided into groups, 

which can change daily depending 

on the area we’d like to see. We’ll 

then be dispatched into different 

zones across the DDCR to carry 

out surveys and activities. These 

fall into four distinct groups: 

setting camera traps to see if we 

can capture wildlife in its natural 

habitat; setting live traps by 

bating cages with tins of sardines 

to obtain physiological data, 

such as the vital measurements 

of the animals; surveying new 

and old fox dens for signs of life; 

and finally, carrying out ‘circular 

observations’, by locating a central 

point in one of the reserve’s 62 

quadrants and noting down any 

wildlife and vegetation that’s 

present there. 

We’ll achieve all this by heading 

out in our 4x4s — hence the 

crash-course in desert driving. But, 

first, we have to learn how 

to use the equipment, “because 

you won’t always be with a 

member of staff in the field, so you 

need to know what you’re doing,” 

says Matthias. 

Greg runs through the various 

data sheets we’ll need to fill out, 

which include both paper forms 

and digital scientific apps. We are 

briefed on how to use the handheld 

GPS devices that’ll get us within a 

few feet of previously recorded fox 

dens and mean we can log the 

locations of new cameras and live 

traps, so that other teams can 

check them throughout the 

week. We also are given some basic 

navigational tips on how to use a 

compass, in case our digital 

devices fail. It’s then time to 


CONSERVATION 

DUBAI’S BIG FIVE 

1. SNAKES 

The many and varied reptiles in 

the reserve include: the Jayakars 

sand boa, which ranges from 

12-26ins in size; the even-larger 

Arabian horned viper, with its 

fearsome-looking triangularshaped 

head; and the Sindh 

saw-scaled viper, which leaves a 

‘side-winding’ track in its wake. 

2. FOXES 

Of the two foxes in the reserve, 

the Arabian fox is most similar to 

our common red fox, though with 

larger ears and a smaller body. 

Smaller, white-coloured sand 

foxes are also present. 

release the pressure in our tyres so 

the wheels can cruise across the 

sandy terrain, before we head out 

into the dunes. It’s definitely a lot 

to take in. But the Biosphere 

approach is that anyone can take 

part, providing they have a 

willingness to learn. 

That said, my fellow participants 

do seem to be of a certain calibre. 

There’s Jim, a wiry computer 

hardware designer from northern 

California; Albert, a softly spoken 

farmer with an MBA in agriculture; 

Ziggy, a legal assistant; and 

Yvonne, a biologist. Not exactly 

laymen, but ready to learn 

nonetheless. It’s a mixed-aged 

ensemble too, hailing from all parts 

of the globe, including Britain, 

America and Germany. The 

unifying factor is a firm interest in 

conservation and the environment, 

especially animals. 

Sufficiently bonded, our group 

slips into the daily routine of 

meeting at the DDCR office each 

morning to pick up equipment, get 

into teams and be assigned our 

tasks by Greg, before heading out 

to survey the sands, armed with a 

packed lunch. 

A common perception is that 

deserts are a barren landscape, 

devoid of life and impervious to 

change. But that couldn’t be 

further from the truth, I discover. 

For one thing, the light shifts 

constantly, dark and ominous one 

minute, red and romantic the next, 

casting the dunes in a kaleidoscope 

of ever-changing shadows. The 

weather too, is unpredictable, 

ranging from still and warm one 

day, to fiercely windy the next, 

forcing us to use shirts, sunglasses 

and scarves to keep the sand from 

getting into our eyes, ears and 

noses. It doesn’t work. Several 

showers follow. Still more sand. 

The flora and fauna are a 

surprise, too. Gnarled trunks and 

windswept trees stand isolated 

against a backdrop of endless 

dunes, imbuing the landscape with 

a surreal, Dali-esque quality. 

During the establishment of the 

reserve, many of these trees and 

shrubs were planted to provide 

sustenance for the reintroduced 

wildlife. It’s for this reason camels 

are kept out of the reserve, 

otherwise they’d make short 

work of all the vegetation. 

Of all the sightings though, one 

of the best we witness is a pair of 

pharaoh eagle-owls, a male and 

female, that we spook while driving 

past, sending the predators flying 

out onto the slopes. We wait, 

PREVIOUS PAGE: Camera 

trap photos of wildlife in 

the Dubai desert 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP 

LEFT: Arabian horned 

viper; Campsite of a 

Biosphere Expedition 

group; Collecting data 

from the camera traps 

3. GAZELLES 

The reserve’s three gazelles 

include: the large, long-horned 

oryx, defined by its uniformly 

white body; the flank-striped 

Arabian gazelle; and the harderto-spot 

sand gazelle, which is the 

only one to give birth to twins, 

typically in spring and autumn. 

4. CATS 

There are three felines present in 

the reserve: the domestic-sized 

Gordon’s wildcat; the reddishbrown 

caracal; and the decidedly 

cute-faced sand cat, with its 

distinctive black leg markings. All 

are nocturnal and difficult to spot. 

5. LIZARDS 

Other scaly sightings include: 

the UAE’s largest (and most 

aggressive) lizard, the desert 

monitor; the ruler-sized, yellowspotted 

agama; and the Leptiens 

spiny-tailed lizard, which can live 

for up to 80 years. 


CONSERVATION 

Pitch up // By night 

we return to camp, 

which in line 

with Biosphere’s 

tread-lightly mandate, 

is a simple set-up of 

bring-your-own tents, 

located in a gorgeous 

glade of ghaf trees 

IMAGE: ALAMY 

patiently watching, as they sit and 

stare back at us, eyes like saucers. 

Herds of oryx, with their 

muscular, horse-like haunches, are 

omnipresent, and we spy plenty of 

Arabian gazelles too — their 

springy, athletic strides make them 

easy to spot in the dunes. By 

coincidence, I’m here at the height 

of calving season, and it’s a joy to 

see so many leggy youths 

gamboling around. Several sand 

gazelles also reveal themselves, 

distinguishable by their white 

faces. All these sightings we note 

down on a sheet of ‘random 

observations’, which helps Greg 

monitor the overall environment. 

One of the biggest thrills, I 

discover, can be not seeing 

something, but getting a hint an 

animal had very recently been 

there: fox tracks tailing off through 

the dunes; the smell of fresh 

droppings outside a den. It’s 

peculiar the things you get excited 

about after a week in the DDCR. 

One group is lucky enough to spot 

a Gordon’s wildcat, whose low 

numbers in the reserve are 

threatened by hybridisation with 

domestic cats. It’s a rare and 

cherished sighting, which all of us 

delight in, however vicariously. 

By night we return to camp, 

which in line with Biosphere’s 

tread-lightly mandate, is a simple 

set-up of bring-your-own tents, 

located in a gorgeous glade of ghaf 

trees. There’s a couple of bedouin 

mess tents for snacks and drinks, a 

central campfire for evening 

gatherings, and a set of basic 

showers and toilets for essential 

ablutions. Breakfast and dinner are 

served in the five-star surrounds of 

the Al Maha Resort, a short drive 

away. Dusty and field-worn as we 

are, we enter this luxury retreat via 

the back door, in order to feast on 

an array of curries in the staff 

canteen, from butter chicken 

to lentil daal. 

Afterwards, we head to Al 

Maha’s terrace bar, for cocktails 

and a chance to trade tales of the 

day’s exploits. It’s a nice contrast 

to the rough-and-ready reality of 

the expedition; a chance to relax, 

content in the knowledge we’ve 

earned these luxuries. 

The next chapter in the DDCR 

story is an intriguing one. The 

gazelle and oryx populations have 

now become so plentiful that Greg 

is considering reintroducing a 

natural predator to help manage 

their numbers. “We’re looking at 

the Arabian wolf,” he tells me. “But 

the problem with predatory 

reintroduction is it’s seen as posing 

a threat to people and livestock. 

That’s not necessarily the case, but 

that perception means we can’t 

steamroll it through.” 

Another thrilling predator 

possibility is the Arabian leopard, 

which has been critically 

endangered since 1996, with fewer 

than 200 individuals left in the 

wild. If one or both of these 

species were reintroduced, it 

would make the DDCR experience 

an even more exciting one for 

participants. While the decision is 

being debated, we’ll await with 

bated breath. 

HOW TO DO IT 

Biosphere Expedition’s eightday 

Arabia itinerary costs 

£1,590 per person, excluding 

flights. The next expedition 

runs 20-27 January 2018. 

biosphere-expeditions.org 

Al Maha Resort has double 

rooms from AED2,816 (£615), 

including full-board and two 

desert activities. Five per cent 

of all profits go back into the 

reserve. al-maha.com. 

MORE INFO 

Dubai Desert Conservation 

Reserve. ddcr.org 

Biosphere Expeditions has an 

extensive blog and archive 

of expedition diaries, offering 

a real taste of what it’s like to 

be a participant on the 

ground. biosphere-expeditions. 

org/diaries 

Dubai & Abu Dhabi (Lonely 

Planet, 2015). RRP: £14.99 


THE DO-GOOD DILEMMA 

HOW DO YOU FIND AN ETHICAL OPERATOR AND PROJECT TO ENSURE YOU’RE DOING 

MORE GOOD THAN HARM? WE LOOK AT THE QUESTIONS POTENTIAL VOLUNTEERS 

SHOULD BE ASKING. WORDS: SAM LEWIS 

Few would argue that 

travellers who volunteer 

abroad want to make a 

positive contribution. Some 

might say their altruism is mixed, 

in part, with self interest, tinged 

with idealism, or underpinned by 

obligation or guilt. But motives 

aside, the bigger ethical issue is 

surely: what are the ramifications 

of their work, and where is their 

money going? Would it be better, 

in fact, to stay at home? 

Growing up, most of the 

volunteers I knew were teachers, 

nurses and doctors who travelled 

with nonprofit charities or 

nongovernmental organisations. 

Today, practically anyone can 

volunteer abroad and there are 

hundreds of organisations that 

will happily place them. 

According to Amnesty 

International, the volunteering 

industry is worth around 

$11bn a year, with the largest 

organisations generating up to 

$20m a year. 

Raising money for a good 

cause has become a commercial 

enterprise — and that means 

those in need aren’t the only ones 

who are benefitting. 

Ruth Taylor, international 

steering committee member 

for interagency initiative Better 

Volunteering, Better Care, says: 

“Volunteering abroad is big 

business and it’s important to 

ask yourself whether, as an 

industry, we’re making money 

from poverty.” 

Of course, in an ideal world, 

as a volunteer I’d want 100% of 

my money to go to charity. But 

as a realist, I know that some 

of it will pay for my food, travel 

and administration costs, and 

a percentage will also go to the 

organisation to pay salaries 

— with some taking more 

than others. Even Amnesty 

International has come under fire 

on this count. The Sun called out 

the Nobel Peace Prize-winning 

organisation for allegedly paying 

its secretary general, Salil Shetty, 

around £200,000 a year (although 

it should be noted that this sum is 

comparable to other NGO senior 

executives roles). 

Beside the issue of how much 

money is or isn’t finding its way to 

a particular project, there’s the 

question of whether the project is 

actually necessary. Does it have a 

long-term, sustainable goal? 

Are there likely to be any 

negative consequences? 

With hundreds of 

organisations clamouring 

to take paying volunteers, 

anyone interested clearly has a 

responsibility to research not 

only the organisation but to ask 

pertinent questions about the 

project they’ll be working on. 

Transparency surrounding the 

impact of the placement and 

volunteers’ money should be a 

prerequisite for signing up to a 

volunteering scheme. 

A key consideration, too, is 

what a volunteer wants from 

the experience. 

The boundary between 

holidaying and volunteering 

has become blurred — some 

volunteer programmes even 

involve sightseeing or beach 

time. Such trips are often 

labelled with the derisory 

portmanteau ‘voluntourism’. 

Hratche Koundarjian, global 

media manager at VSO, says: 

“Our volunteers don’t have 

tourist experiences. We don’t 

arrange tours or sightseeing 

opportunities. Our placements 

aren’t holidays, they’re an 

opportunity to contribute to 

a properly planned, long-term 

international development 

programme. Our volunteers can 

find their placements enjoyable 

— but they’re also demanding.” 

Does this mean that 

international volunteering 

opportunities that structure 

themselves around an element 

of travel and tourism alongside 

a stint of charitable activity 

are wrong or simply ineffective? 

It seems most people on a 

voluntourism project want a 

balance between work and 

free time spent exploring the 

location. Ridhi Patel, founder 

of Volunteering Journeys, says 

volunteers can have the best 

of both worlds, providing they 

choose a project wisely. She cites 

wildlife data-collection initiatives 

as one such example. 

Whatever your stance on this, 

it’s clear that every volunteer 

— whether a full-time charity 

worker or voluntourist — needs 

to do some careful research and 

background checks before they 

embark on a trip if they really want 

to make a positive difference. 

IMAGE: THE GREAT PROJECTS 



THE DO GOOD DILEMMA 

Q& 

A 

Q // What length of time do I 

need to volunteer for to make a 

worthwhile difference? 

While you might struggle to 

believe that volunteers can 

make a huge difference in a 

week, some long-term projects 

can be achieved via short-term 

placements, according to Sarah 

Faith, marketing manager at 

Responsible Travel — although she 

admits they’re “a bit more elusive”. 

She points to conservation 

projects involving collecting 

observational data — for example, 

whale and dolphin research 

projects in Italy’s Ligurian Sea, 

and an initiative in Belize, where 

volunteers help clear invasive lion 

fish from reefs on dive expeditions. 

Other organisations demand 

volunteers commit to a minimum 

length of time. But whatever the 

timescale, volunteers eventually go 

home, which poses questions. As 

Better Volunteering, Better Care’s 

Ruth Taylor points out: “Think 

what happens to the work that 

the volunteers have been doing. 

Does it just stop? Is it handed over 

to local people? The best way to 

ensure a project is sustainable 

is for the organisation to have a 

long-standing relationship with 

the local community, which brings 

volunteers in to add capacity 

where needed and has clear exit 

strategies for when volunteers are 

no longer being sent.” 

Q // What’s the goal? 

Time isn’t the only factor 

that determines if a project 

is worthwhile. Taylor says: 

“Too often, placements are 

set up that are heavily driven 

by the volunteer-sending 

organisation and what it thinks 

its customers (i.e. volunteers) 

would be most interested in. 

As well as being unethical and 

immoral — forcing projects on 

communities that don’t want or 

need them — it also exploits the 

good will of those who wish to 

volunteer overseas.” 

Remember that commercial 

operators, unlike charities, don’t 

need to prove to the Charity 

Commission that they’re providing 

a benefit. Volunteers must do their 

own research to ensure a project 

meets real needs and is designed 

in collaboration with local 

partners that understand the 

local communities. 

Speak to people who’ve been 

away with the organisation before 

and are enthusiastic ambassadors 

for the programme. Online 

forums and independent review 

sites (such as Volunteer Forever 

and Go Overseas) are useful for 

determining whether you can 

make a difference. 

Check to see how long the 

organisation has been running 

and what it’s achieved so far and 

whether its work is sustainable. 

Q // I’m not a skilled professional, 

will I have a negative impact? 

There are some organisations 

— notably VSO — that only 

recruit professional volunteers 

with specific skills, while most, 

including at Volunteering Journeys, 

advise checking to see if you have 

the necessary qualifications for the 

project. As Amnesty International 

points out: “If you’ve never built 

a well in the UK, chances are you 

can’t build one in Uganda and 

qualified Ugandan builders would 

do a better job.” Unfortunately, it 

says, there are too many examples 

of unqualified young volunteers 

being sent to build schools, which 

qualified local builders have then 

had to knock down and rebuild. 

Most ethical operators should 

interview volunteers to find out 

what they can and can’t do and 

place them accordingly. 

On the flip side, Hands Up 

Holidays (providing luxury 

volunteer trips for families) says a 

‘philanthro-volunteering’ model is 

another way of contributing. Hill 

says: “The main benefit our clients 

bring is the funding they provide, 

which we use to hire local experts 

who do most of the work, with our 

clients getting involved as much 

as they feel able, overseen and 

assisted by our local experts.” 

IMAGES: THE GREAT PROJECTS; REEF CONSERVATION INTERNATIONAL 


THE DO GOOD DILEMMA 

Q // Where is my money going and 

how much should I pay? 

You need to be realistic — not 

all of a volunteer’s payment will 

be given to local communities; 

a proportion will be absorbed 

by running costs and salaries. 

Volunteers should ask for 

clarification on the exact 

percentage. That said, how do 

you know if you’re getting an 

honest answer? 

With a lack of regulation, it’s 

a tricky one — as is the amount 

you should pay, with volunteer 

placements varying hugely from 

a few-hundred pounds to over 

£5,000. “Generally, the more 

expensive the placement, the less 

ethical it is,” says Taylor. 

That theory is supported by 

a report published in 2014 by 

Leeds Metropolitan University. 

It found there was an inverse 

relationship between cost and 

quality, with voluntourism 

organisations with the most 

expensive products tending to 

be the least responsible. 

Q // Should I avoid volunteer 

projects with children? 

In 2013, Responsible Travel 

stopped providing volunteer 

orphanage packages, and 

many other organisations 

have followed suit. Most travel 

bodies, including ABTA and 

VSO, discourage volunteers 

from working at orphanages. 

VSO’s Hratche Koundarjia 

says: “Research has found 

volunteering in orphanages 

can be psychologically and 

emotionally detrimental to 

children, and the demand for 

voluntary placements could 

mean that more children end up 

in orphanages, despite having 

families at home that are likely to 

be able to care for them.” 

Volunteers can help, however, 

by supporting permanent staff 

in such establishments — or 

by finding other opportunities 

to work with children. Oyster 

Worldwide, for example, runs 

a scheme providing extracurricular 

sports coaching to kids 

in townships in Brazil and South 

Africa. Volunteers should expect 

a criminal background check 

before working with kids. 

Q // I want to work with wild 

animals — how do I ensure the 

establishment is a genuine 

centre for conservation? 

Most operators recommend that 

volunteers ask questions. There 

are certain warning signs to look 

out for — if the company says it 

works with ‘orphaned’ lion cubs 

or offers rides on elephants, for 

example. “If they do, stay away,” 

advises Vicky McNeil, director 

at Working Abroad. “There are 

many inappropriate projects 

out there where volunteers pet 

wild animals and bottle-feed 

or ‘cuddle a cub’, before they’re 

transferred to fenced parks for 

‘canned hunting’, where wealthy 

foreign trophy hunters can shoot 

them easily as they’re not afraid 

of humans and can’t escape due 

to relatively small enclosures.” 

McNeil adds there are 

exceptions, including a wildlife 

rehabilitation centre where a 

trained wildlife vet is present 

and where some interaction with 

injured animals may be essential, 

and so is actively encouraged. 

Meanwhile, ABTA’s senior 

sustainable tourism executive 

Hugh Felton points out: “Any 

legitimate sanctuary should 

have a no-breeding policy and 

any contact should be clearly 

demonstrated to be in the best 

interests of the animal.” 

MORE INFO 

Amnesty International. 

amnesty.org.uk 

VSO. vsointernational.org 

Volunteering Journeys. 

volunteeringjourneys.com 

Hands Up Holidays. 

handsupholidays.com 

Volunteer Forever. 

volunteerforever.com 

Go Overseas. gooverseas.com 

Omprakash. omprakash.org 

Grassroots Volunteering. 

grassrootsvolunteering.org 

Idealist. idealist.org 

Tourism Concern. 

tourismconcern.org.uk/ethicalvolunteering 

The International Ecotourism 

Society. ecotourism.org/ 

voluntourism-guidelines 

Responsible Travel. 

responsibletravel.com/holidays/ 

volunteer-travel/travel-guide 

People and Places UK. 

travel-peopleandplaces.co.uk 

Childsafe. 

childsafe-international.org 

Campaign Against Canned 

Hunting. cannedlion.org 



ASTURIAS 

DISCOVER THE 

REAL SPAIN 

Go off-grid along this green stretch of the Iberian 

Peninsula, wedged between Galicia and Cantabria. 

Combining exquisite landscapes with an excellent 

foodie scene, Asturias is slowly revealing itself to be 

one of Spain’s must-visit regions


ULTIMATE 

EXPERIENCES 

A place where you can surf at sunrise, 

descend to the depths of a mine before lunch 

and track roaming bears in silent valleys in 

the afternoon, Asturias crams everything 

from soaring cliffs and mountain streams to 

hundreds of majestic beaches into its borders. 

Take the plunge 

For a sense of calm, start out at the Fitu Lookout 

and catch your breath at the top of this 

1,100m-high balcony, stationed between the 

handsome towns of Arriondas and Colunga. 

Dramatic views roll out in every direction: of 

staggering peaks, including those of the Picos 

de Europa and the Cantabrian Mountains; and 

of more than 100km of captivating coastline 

fringed by the bluest of seas. Trace the outline 

of the Bay of Biscay and decide which stretch 

of sea you’ll dip your toes in, before gazing 

over towns such as Caravia, Colunga and the 

cider-making capital of Villaviciosa tumbling 

down the hillside.


View from the top 

For yet more jaw-dropping views, hit 

the hiking routes that criss-cross the 

mountains and lower valleys. Novice and 

serious climbers will relish days tackling 

the region’s rugged and mountainous 

nooks and crannies. Every level is catered 

for, whether you’re after an easy morning 

stroll or want to take on something more 

challenging — for the more adventurous 

types, the thrilling multi-pitch routes of 

Naranjo De Bulnes in the Picos de Europa is 

worth a try. 

Adrenalin-loving travellers needn’t 

stop there: paragliding above Asturias is a 

momentous way to discover its dramatic 

landscapes. Tandem flights can be 

launched at the Següenco lookout, with 

views of the Cantabrian Sea, the mountains 

and the Royal Site of Covadonga rolling out 

beneath you. 

Two-wheeled travel 

If you like to work up a sweat, cycling 

tours across this wild, untamed region of 

northern Spain are a big deal, too. Taking 

hardy cyclists past tiny coves and pretty 

coastal villages, the routes up to the 

peaks of Covadonga Lakes, Angliru and La 

Farrapona are seriously spectacular. But at 

an incline of 30% and emulating the Cycling 

Tour of Spain (La Vuelta a España), they’re 

not for the faint-hearted. 

Untamed beauty 

Elsewhere, unspoilt Asturias is also an 

inexplicably charming place to track the 

endangered brown bear. Elusive they may be, 

but the numbers of these native creatures 

have been steadily growing; it’s estimated 

there are around 250 brown bears lurking 

among the crags and deep valleys of the 

region. Head to Somiedo Nature Park and 

Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias Nature 

Park, whose swathes of dense native 

forest offer some of the best chances 

of bear-spotting. 

As for the beaches, Asturias is sprinkled 

with some beautiful, blissed-out arcs of sand. 

Take La Griega — a glittering sandy beach 

where locals soak up the rays, take to the 

water for an enchanting swim, and break 

from the sun with plates of superb seafood 

on shady terraces. It’s also the setting for the 

world’s biggest dinosaur footprints — wind 

your way along the upper footpath on the 

beach’s eastern side to peer down at these 

goliath reminders of the Palaeolithic era.

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE 

Away from the well-worn paths lies the 

Muniellos Forest Nature Reserve: this protected 

patch of woodland is a stellar spot to explore 

on foot. One of the most spectacular Atlantic 

ecosystems in Europe and the largest oak forest 

in Spain, Muniellos is all wild rivers in the 

shadow of mountains and wetland forests of 

birch, holly and beech. Pick up the trail to the 

four mesmerising lagoons of Candanosa Peak, 

and you’ll be following the footsteps of roaming 

bears, wolves, foxes, wild boars and roe deer. 

Rarely has getting back to nature felt so good. 

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE


CULTURAL 

EXPERIENCES 

The Original Way of the Camino de Santiago, or 

the Camino Primitivo, takes star billing when it 

comes to cultural charms. The 198-mile route 

links the capital of Asturias, Oviedo — home 

to the El Salvador Cathedral — with Santiago 

de Compostela, a magnificent cathedral of 

austere elegance and the final resting place of 

the Apostle St James. Taking on this walk, you’ll 

be tracing the first ever pilgrimage made to 

Santiago, undertaken by King Alfonso II in 813. 

Picking its way along sedate paths through the 

mountains, woodland and pretty towns such 

as Las Regueras, Grado and Salas, this is a trek 

not short of a view or two. The path eventually 

leaves Asturias at the Acebo Pass and 

continues into the province of Lugo in Galicia. 

Spirituality runs deep here — and to 

embrace the whole spirit of Asturias, you 

also have to embrace the parties that are 

crammed in to the calendar. There’s the 

Canoe Festival during the first weekend 

of August, where punters descend on the 

region to battle it out on the Sella River. 

Then there’s July’s Natural Cider Festival 

in Nava, where you can indulge in a draught 

of cider or two and the Humanitarian 

Festival in Moreda; combining gastronomy 

and folklore, it’s filled with nostalgic 

charm. Prepare to be blown away, too, 

at Antroxu (carnival) in Avilés and Gijón, 

where spruced up dancers sashay in line 

with booming floats.


FOOD 

EXPERIENCES 

Asturias also has some serious 

foodie credentials, with a 

remarkable number of rustic 

tapas bars and Michelin-starred 

restaurants pulling out all the stops 

with avant-garde menus. Traditional 

fabada asturiana is a heart-warming 

stew of beans and smoked sausage, 

while casseroles, fritos de pixín 

(deep-fried monkfish), empanada 

(small, savoury pies), the sickly sweet 

arroz con leche (rice pudding) and 

dishes focusing on seafood all make 

up the region’s culinary repertoire. 

Cheese is all the rage, too, and 

the variety is astounding; namely 

Casín, Afuega’l pitu, Cabrales and 

Gamonedo, the latter two of which 

are matured in the dark and damp 

caves of the mountains. 

HOW TO GET THERE 

Easyjet flies direct from 

Stansted, Vueling flies direct 

from Gatwick and Iberia flies 

from Heathrow. 

BEST TIME TO GO 

All year round 

asturiastourism.co.uk contacto@turismoycultura.asturias.es 00 34 984 493 563 AsturiasNaturalParadise

Travel Insurance 

with you in mind 

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Up to £10M medical expenses 

One Way cover at no extra cost 

Extreme sports and activities covered, 

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HOME, HONESTY 

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KAYAK l SNORKEL l HIKE l SKIFF l WILDLIFE l CULTURE

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ristocratic 

In the footsteps of 

Bavaria 

Bavaria is rich in stately homes and traditions 

that continue to cast a magic 

spell even today. Castles, fortresses, 

country estates, entire towns and magnificent 

palaces thrill visitors with their 

impressive architecture that bears witness 

to days gone by. Ornaments created 

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courtly splendour to their own four walls. 

Welcome to sparkling worlds. 

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Regal atmosphere 

STATE SPA BAD REICHENHALL 

Built in 1900, the regal spa building 

embodies the magnificent tradition of 

the spa town. The stately open stairway, 

the artistic ceiling paintings and 

the exquisite chandeliers in this historic 

spa building are truly impressive. Festive 

balls, conferences, weddings and concerts 

are still held here today. 

In the footsteps of the Celts & the Romans 

GUT ISING 

Since 1934 this estate on Lake Chiemsee 

has been owned by the aristocratic 

Magalow family. In the hotel’s riding 

centre and in the restaurant “Goldener 

Pflug”, guests experience the history of 

the estate at first hand. Visitors can enjoy 

a break from everyday life in the modern 

Gut Ising Spa & Wellness fitness suite. 

The longest castle complex in the world 

BURGHAUSEN 

The symbol of Burghausen is the 1,051 

metre long castle complex. From 1255 

to 1503, the castle was the magnificent 

home of the House of Wittelsbach. The 

castle now houses three museums. 

TIP: A particularly magnificent view of 

the castle and the colourful old town is 

afforded by a trip along the Salzach river. 

www.bad-reichenhall.de 

www.gut-ising.de 

www.tourismus.burghausen.de

Advertisement Feature 

Jewel of the Renaissance era 

PASSAU REGION 

Schloss Neuburg towers majestically 

above the River Inn. It is the largest and 

most important castle in the region with 

its splendid marble halls dating back to 

the Renaissance. From the baroque Garden 

of Paradise there is a fantastic view 

over the Bavarian-Upper Austrian region 

of the Inn valley. A river trip on one of the 

magnificent barges is a sheer pleasure. 

Sparkling 

POSCHINGER GLASSWORKS 

In former times, Bavarian and French 

kings obtained their treasures from the 

Poschinger glassworks, which is now run 

by the 15 th generation of the Freiherr von 

Poschinger family. The artistically designed 

items from this traditional glassworks 

are irresistible thanks to their 

noble splendour. 

Wilhelmine’s World 

BAYREUTH 

The Prussian King’s daughter Margravine 

Wilhelmine shapes the image of 

Bayreuth even today, with the Margravial 

Opera House, the Neues Schloss palace, 

the Hofgarten park and the Eremitage. 

A visit to her chambers in the Neues 

Schloss is particularly recommended, 

with its exquisite Palm Room and the 

unique Mirror Cabinet. 

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Bayer. Staatsbad Bad Kissingen GmbH/ © Dominik Marx 

The state spa and the secrets of kings and emperors 

STATE SPA BAD KISSINGEN 

Regentenbau, arcades and promenades. The magnificent buildings of the largest Bavarian 

state spa stand testiment to its days of splendour as a world-renowned spa. Famous 

people such as Empress Elisabeth of Austria (“Sisi”) and Imperial Chancellor Otto Fürst 

von Bismarck came to Bad Kissingen to take the waters. Just like today, the spa gardens 

banished the stresses and strains of everyday life and allowed guests to enjoy the privilege 

of some time to themselves. 

TIP: The 1.5 hour guided city tour with the Grand Portier tour guide is a treat not to be 

missed. Once upon a time, he looked after the aristocratic spa guests – and nowadays he 

is able to disclose some fascinating secrets. 

www.badkissingen.de 

King Ludwig I Castle Park 

STATE SPA BAD BRÜCKENAU 

The transition from nature to architecture 

is smooth, fitting harmoniously into 

the elegant park as a fairytale ensemble 

of historic buildings. Flower beds, tree 

cultures, and terraces in the King’s summer 

residence: The Castle Park gardener 

leads you through the historical park 

with royal flair. 

www.staatsbad.de | www.staatsbad.tv

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STAR LETTER 

Life in ruins 

I’ve visited my fair share of ancient ruins. 

I’ve spent hours alone amid the crumbling 

vestiges of the Angkor empire, watched 

a watery sunrise dawn behind Giza’s 

pyramids, and sat in the shade of the 

Parthenon’s mighty pillars. But more than all 

these, it was the mysterious Mayan temples 

of southeast Mexico that set my imagination 

racing. Your account of Chiapas (‘A message 

from the gods’, May 2017) perfectly captured 

the wonder and intrigue I felt looking round 

the region’s jungle-swamped temples. 

For me, the crowning jewel of 

the state was Palenque. 

The scale of the 

religious complex 

is awesome, and its 

detailed carvings 

of warriors, slaves 

and mystic rites hint 

at a sophisticated yet 

bloodthirsty society. 

Standing in the tomb 

of the Red Queen — so 

called because her body and sarcophagus 

were coated in crimson cinnabar powder, I 

couldn’t help imagining the excitement of 

the 20th-century explorers who unearthed 

the chamber after more than 1,000 years. 

If you go, ask a guide to take you on a 

jungle walk outside the main site: away from 

other tourists, we saw unrestored temples, 

walked through a bat-infested aqueduct and 

swam in a small waterfall. ARRAN WHITAKER 

Chat back 

NatGeoTravelUK 

Racing hearts 

Your fabulous pictures capturing the drama 

of the Palio in Siena evoked strong memories 

of our own magical experience (In Pictures, 

April 2017). If you can, get there early to savour 

the atmosphere, engage with locals and 

sample delicious snacks in the square before 

the colourful medieval parades begin. Secure 

a prime position — the actual dash is over 

before you know it! Afterwards, you’ll see men 

weeping over huge sums gambled and lost. 

The real highlight for us was a local Palio 

held in Colle di Val D’Elsa, where we were 

staying. Once it was over, the whole village 

(and all the holidaymakers) congregated 

around gingham-checked tables to enjoy 

a communal meal outside. 

In good faith 

Tara Isabella Burton’s account of Jerusalem 

(City life, March 2017) was a fascinating 

insight into possibly the most interesting 

city on the planet. As she explained, it’s a 

challenging experience — a city that gets 

many people thinking about the origins of 

religion. On my visits to the city, I’m always 

struck by how one place could be the seat 

of the three great monotheistic religions. 

Jews live cheek-by-jowl with Christians 

and Muslims and, by and large, it seems to 

work. If I only had time for one more foreign 

visit in my life, it would be to Jerusalem. 

DAVID GINGELL 

TOM KINGHORN 

We love America’s natural wonders. What’s the best thing you’ve seen in the USA? 

JASON PIKE For me it’s a toss up between sundown at Arches National Park in Utah or the cliff dwellings at 

Mesa Verde in Colorado. Having said that, Zion was stunning too! // @MIMI_INGLIS As Ansel Adams would 

have seen it — El Capitan at sunset. Stunning #USA // @CAROKYLLMANN The Grand Canyon’s North Rim 

fading away in the distance at sunset while on a mountain biking trip — a view I’ll never forget! 

Instagram 

@NATGEOTRAVELLER 

#NGTUK 

Hashtag your Instagram pics with #NGTUK for your chance to be our Photo of the Week 

@georgebturner 

@janiegolding 

@hannahnortonphoto 

@kurtkgledhill 


GET IN TOUCH 

our Pictures 

We give you a theme, you give us your photos, with 

the best published in the next issue. This month is 

‘Spain’ — a theme of our May 2017 cover story 

As with all our finalists, Polly captured a minute detail: more than just a dress and shoes, 

the image immediately connotes Spain. With the careful composition and framing of the 

dancers, the image also evokes a sense of movement and a festive atmosphere. 

NOW OPEN 

The theme: ‘Kenya’. 

Upload your high-res 

image, plus a one sentence 

description, to ngtr.uk/ 

yourpictures 

by 

15 June 2017. 

THE PRIZE 

Ideal for the serious 

photographer, the 

versatile Manfrotto Pro 

Light 3N1-26 camera 

bag can be worn as a 

backpack, sling bag or 

cross-body bag. It 

holds photography 

and video gear, plus 

personal belongings. 

RRP: £149.95. 

manfrotto.co.uk 

W I N N E R 

1 POLLY RUSYN // LONDON: Nothing says ‘Spain’ like 

the flamenco. I saw these performers on the streets 

of Seville and was utterly captivated by their hypnotic 

stamping and rhythmic clapping. 

2 JANET MILES // SOMERSET: Around the City of Arts 

and Sciences in Valencia are carefully placed pools to 

reflect the lighting at night. I hadn’t appreciated the 

building’s ‘fishiness’ until after I’d pressed the shutter! 

3 ERNESTAS BILVINAS // DERBYSHIRE: The octopuses 

on this barbecue in an old boat caught my eye — I had 

to capture the scene before trying something similar 

at a nearby restaurant. 

To find out more about the next theme, to enter 

and for T&Cs, visit NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK 


designed to 

protect 

Photographic & Travel Luggage 

Hadley Small in Burgundy/Chocolate 

made in england since 1973 

billingham.co.uk/NGT

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 

RAYMOND WEIL is proud to be supporting Swiss sailing team 

Realteam as its Offi cial Timing Partner and to introduce a new 

freelancer able to support the crew in the most extreme sailing 

conditions. A nice little tip of the hat to Mr Raymond Weil who was 

a member of the Geneva Yacht Club. 

freelancer collection 

Join the discussion #RWRealteam

National_Geographic_Traveller_UK_June_2017

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