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FREE! OVER 600 RESOURCES<br />

✔ BRUSHES ✔ TEXTURES ✔ BACKGROUNDS ✔ STOCK IMAGES ✔ ACTIONS AND MORE<br />

THE WORLD’S NO.1 FOR<br />

PHOTOSHOP<br />

& ELEMENTS<br />

25<br />

EFFECTS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

FILTERS<br />

✔ DIGITAL ARTWORK ✔ LIGHT EFFECTS<br />

✔ LIQUIFY TOOLS ✔ CAMERA RAW<br />

LIQUIFY<br />

PLUS!<br />

18 pages of<br />

Elements<br />

guides<br />

GLOWING<br />

EDGES<br />

MASTER<br />

DIGITAL ART<br />

Unlock the power of digital<br />

projects in Elements<br />

OIL PAINT<br />

RENDER<br />

FLAME<br />

SNOW<br />

EFFECTS<br />

ALSO INSIDE!<br />

BUILD<br />

A 3D CITY<br />

Create your own city in the sky today<br />

HIGH PASS<br />

COMPOSITE<br />

LIKE A PRO<br />

Master layers to design a<br />

fantasy scene<br />

GO INTO SPACE<br />

With the help of filters, layers and masks<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>154</strong>


Future Publishing Ltd<br />

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Editorial<br />

Editor Erlingur Einarsson<br />

erlingur.einarsson@futurenet.com<br />

% 01202 586200<br />

Senior Art Editor Rebecca Shaw<br />

Senior Staff Writer Mark White<br />

Senior Designer Sarah Bellman<br />

Group Editor in Chief Chris George<br />

Photographer James Sheppard<br />

Contributors<br />

Abbi Castle, Jo Cole, Sarah Cousens, Rebecca Greig, Rebekka<br />

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Marinelli, John Ross, Daniel Sinoca<br />

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© <strong>2017</strong> Future Publishing Ltd<br />

ISSN 1747-7816<br />

On the surface, filters may look like one<br />

of <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s more basic features, but<br />

when you look closer, they can help you<br />

unlock a whole world of opportunities,<br />

whether it comes to adding subtle final<br />

effects to an artwork you’re tweaking, or<br />

dramatically transforming an image to create<br />

something stunning and unique. Turn to p14 for an<br />

in-depth guide to their many uses. In addition, our oil<br />

painting effects tutorial on p42 shows how you can<br />

use filters to turn a simple image into a striking<br />

portrait. If you’re looking for that extra dimension to<br />

make your art pop, we have not one, but two exciting<br />

3D features. Our advanced 3D city tutorial on p58 will<br />

teach you to build a city in the sky, and the tutorial on<br />

p22 helps you get to know the many aspects of 3D<br />

effects in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. We hope you enjoy the issue!<br />

Erlingur Einarsson Editor<br />

erlingur.einarsson@futurenet.com<br />

3


Contents SAVE<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk<br />

Essentials<br />

06 22<br />

08<br />

10<br />

12<br />

14<br />

36<br />

56<br />

70<br />

92<br />

FileSilo<br />

This issue there are over 600 free<br />

resources for you to use<br />

Trending gallery<br />

Check out some of the coolest<br />

artwork going viral this month<br />

Readers’ gallery<br />

Have a look at what your fellow<br />

readers have been up to this issue<br />

Readers’ challenge<br />

A chance to win Corel AterShot 3 and<br />

AKVIS Enhancer software<br />

Feature: Master filters<br />

25 diferent ilters and how to use<br />

them to make a good artwork great<br />

How I Made<br />

See how Alexandru Savescu made<br />

the ilm-noiresque artwork The<br />

Mystery Man of Maryland<br />

How I Made<br />

Christian Orrillo shows us how he<br />

created the vivid Amniotic<br />

Project focus<br />

Typhaine Le Gallo has perfected the<br />

way to blend digital and traditional<br />

hand-drawn art using <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Reviews<br />

This issue we put Anthropics’<br />

LandscapePro 2 and AKVIS’<br />

LightShop and OilPaint to the test<br />

Portfolio interview<br />

Carolina Rempto talks about her path<br />

to being an acclaimed digital artist<br />

Reader interview<br />

Maciej Matuszak shares his secret<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> tips and tricks with us<br />

Tutorials<br />

28<br />

38<br />

42<br />

46<br />

52<br />

96 46<br />

98<br />

4<br />

76<br />

Master basic 3D in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Get to know <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s 3D tools<br />

and create a cityscape with depth<br />

Blend with layer masks<br />

Use double-exposure tools to blend<br />

diferent images<br />

Create a fantasy scene<br />

Mix reality and fantasy with the help<br />

of layers and masks<br />

Turn any photo into an<br />

abstract oil painting<br />

Learn how to transform a photo<br />

into a richly detailed oil painting<br />

Create a 3D-style logo<br />

Layer styles, Smart Objects and<br />

Blur ilters can help you make a<br />

rockin’ logo<br />

Create block animals<br />

with Liquify<br />

Follow this fun step-by-step guide<br />

to turn any furry critter into a boxy<br />

fantasy creature<br />

Follow<br />

us on<br />

Twitter<br />

@pshopcreative<br />

Subscribe<br />

today and you’ll<br />

20%<br />

Turn to page 34 to get<br />

this amazing deal.<br />

US page 72<br />

YOUR FREE PHOTOSHOP<br />

RESOURCES ARE HERE!<br />

✔ This issue: lightning strikes, textures,<br />

mockups, light leaks and much more<br />

✔ Plus files to follow the tutorials<br />

✔ Free and ready for you to download today!<br />

Advanced <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

58<br />

64<br />

3D modelling in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Dream up a city in the sky<br />

using <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s powerful<br />

3D tools<br />

Create an awesome<br />

space scene<br />

Compose an out-of-this-world<br />

scene with the help of layers,<br />

ilters and masks<br />

64<br />

6


14<br />

25<br />

FILTERS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

22<br />

42 28<br />

36<br />

58<br />

Elements creative<br />

74<br />

76<br />

80<br />

Dodge and Burn<br />

your photos<br />

Achieve fast precision with<br />

this vital tool<br />

Make a creative<br />

clock face<br />

Make creative compositions<br />

with text and images<br />

How to age portraits<br />

Change the look of your<br />

images non-destructively<br />

82<br />

86<br />

90<br />

Create a surreal moon<br />

composition<br />

Follow this step-by-step guide<br />

to build an eye-catching scene<br />

Illustrate a scene using<br />

selections<br />

How to thrive in Elements<br />

without a graphics tablet<br />

Q&A: Common problems<br />

in Elements<br />

Your FAQs answered by our<br />

team of Elements experts<br />

19<br />

5


Free with<br />

your magazine<br />

Textures<br />

Get crafty with your<br />

design using our 30<br />

free textures<br />

Mock-up packs<br />

Make use of clothing<br />

and photo mock-ups in<br />

your design<br />

Tutorial files<br />

The assets and start<br />

photos you need to<br />

follow our tutorials<br />

On the FileSilo this issue…<br />

• 4 grungy photo mock-ups by Vibeke Alvestad<br />

Johansen worth $8<br />

• 30 craft textures by Anna Komissarenko, $20<br />

• 8 ladies tank top mock-ups by GoMedia, $37<br />

• 200 light leaks by SparkleStock worth $5<br />

• 180 lightning Strikes, by SparkleStock, $5<br />

• A total of 604 resources worth $85<br />

Log in to www.filesilo.co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

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resources, how-to videos and<br />

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Free<br />

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readers too!<br />

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download on your<br />

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Over 5,800<br />

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More<br />

added<br />

every<br />

issue


TRENDING IMAGES<br />

Check out some of the most popular artwork that’s been rocking the internet<br />

over the last few weeks, and take inspiration from what’s currently trending<br />

There’s nothing more inspiring than<br />

surfing the internet and seeing what<br />

other artists are creating, and we<br />

encourage you to do so. Here are<br />

some of our favourite pictures that<br />

caught our attention recently, from<br />

some of the world’s most exciting<br />

artists and designers.<br />

Chatchanok’s rooster has been viewed over<br />

8,000 times. We love the detail in the piece,<br />

and it’s proof that while digital and analogue<br />

art are oten considered separate, they can<br />

conlate for incredible results such as this.<br />

The blending in Rafael’s work is superb, as is the<br />

choice of colour and texture. He’s been featured by<br />

Adobe’s <strong>Photoshop</strong> gallery, and this piece is a great<br />

example of his wonderful command of a composition.<br />

Rafael Boo<br />

www.behance.<br />

net/rafaelboo<br />

This was<br />

created with the<br />

smoke cut out and applied<br />

using blend modes, and<br />

space elements added. The<br />

smoke was given a colour<br />

temperature, light efects and<br />

spots using gradient maps,<br />

Curves and blend modes.<br />

Mind-bending compositions are extremely<br />

popular online, and this is the standout<br />

piece in Risfan’s impressive portfolio. We<br />

particularly like the colour editing that<br />

Risfan has made in Lightroom.<br />

Chatchanok<br />

Wongvachara<br />

www.behance.net/<br />

chatchanokwong<br />

The artwork was created<br />

from a pencil drawing that I did, with the<br />

digital colouring coming from <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

The image was created in celebration of<br />

the Chinese Year of the Rooster.<br />

Risfan<br />

Fariansyah<br />

www.behance.<br />

net/rsvn<br />

This was<br />

created in <strong>Photoshop</strong> and<br />

Lightroom. The Transform<br />

tools were key in creating<br />

a surreal environment,<br />

masking helped to bring all<br />

the elements into the inal<br />

image and blend modes<br />

helped unify the elements.<br />

8


Jan Urschel<br />

www.hendrix-design.com/<br />

This illustration was made for the movie<br />

Ghost in the Shell from Paramount Pictures.<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> was used to composite several 3D<br />

render passes, add photographic background plates, bring in<br />

atmospheric efects like steam, and the inal colour grading.<br />

Yukai Du<br />

www.yukaidu.com/<br />

This is the cover of a children’s book,<br />

commissioned by Wide-Eyed Editions . The cover<br />

image needed to incorporate the themes of the<br />

book, feel coherent, and also feel related to the other pages<br />

illustrated inside. Brushes were used to create the illustration.<br />

Jan has worked with countless production companies, and this is a<br />

shining example of his work. We love the detail and atmosphere in<br />

this piece, and so do 135,000 people who have viewed him online.<br />

Aitor Prieto Reyes<br />

www.aitorprieto.com/<br />

I work on my digital pieces as if they were a real canvas, so<br />

I don’t usually accumulate many layers. In this piece I used<br />

a layer for the background and another for the characters,<br />

which I blocked to give them volume with brushstrokes.<br />

With half a million online views and support from The Student Show<br />

and Pantone, Yukai’s work is highly rated. We love this one, because it<br />

feels slick yet playful: that’s the power of <strong>Photoshop</strong> brushes.<br />

Barcelona-born Aitor has been recognised by four separate Behance showcases for<br />

his perfectly detailed, oten caricaturist digital art. This landscape is beautifully<br />

realised and was featured by the <strong>Photoshop</strong>, Behance and Illustration galleries.<br />

9


READERS’ IMAGES<br />

Welcome to an inspirational round-up of great <strong>Photoshop</strong> artwork<br />

created by none other than your fellow readers<br />

GET IN TOUCH<br />

Send us your images now for the<br />

chance to appear in future galleries<br />

Create your own gallery online<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong><strong>Creative</strong>.co.uk<br />

Upload your images to Facebook<br />

Search <strong>Photoshop</strong><strong>Creative</strong><br />

Tweet us your creative artwork<br />

@Pshop<strong>Creative</strong><br />

Alternatively, you can email:<br />

markwhite03@futurenet.com<br />

Elissandro Pinto<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/<br />

Elissandro<br />

Image of the issue<br />

Layers, blend modes and masking<br />

were vital in this image. The rhino was the first<br />

thing to be added to the scene, before the town<br />

was added to its back and everything was blended<br />

with adjustments and brushes.<br />

Caroline Julia Moore<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/<br />

CJMArt<br />

I took the main photo of the two<br />

subjects at the studio and merged<br />

this with a woodland photograph that I’d taken.<br />

The image was stylised with Dodge and Burn,<br />

and a Color Lookup adjustment was applied.<br />

10


Alexander Kruglov<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/Shurelo<br />

I used a lot of layers and masks for the mood in<br />

this image. I used an image of an old gramophone<br />

from a museum and Liquified it to make it look like<br />

an unusual flower. I added my cat to the image, too!<br />

Murilo Francisco<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/Mumu0909<br />

I used the Pen Tool to cut out the images,<br />

along with exposure, merging and<br />

adjustments, and I blended everything<br />

together to produce a natural, toned composition.<br />

Claudio Tosi<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/MirrorWalkers<br />

The original sketch was drawn by hand, then<br />

replicated on a Wacom tablet. The aim was to<br />

enhance the beauty of the traditional sketch using<br />

digital tools. I used brushes and pastel textures on the shadows.<br />

Kostis Keritis<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/kostis%20keritis<br />

In order to create this, I began with a few quick<br />

sketches to find the best possible frame. Then I added<br />

more images, overpainted a few new elements and<br />

drew the details with a tablet.<br />

11


READERS’<br />

CHALLENGE<br />

Upload your images to<br />

photoshopcreative.co.uk<br />

Challenge<br />

entries<br />

The best entries and<br />

overall challenge winner<br />

1 Sheri Emerson<br />

Space Detective<br />

I used Polar Coordinates to<br />

make rings from the rockets,<br />

duplicated and blurred for glow.<br />

I put the arctic scene in the<br />

background, filtered and added<br />

a desaturated rainbow ribbon.<br />

2 Bob Parsi<br />

Love, Strategy & War<br />

I created a movie poster theme<br />

based on Love, Strategy and<br />

War. I created this design using<br />

all images provided. I used a lot<br />

of masking, layer adjustments,<br />

blurs, blending and more.<br />

1<br />

Readers’<br />

Challenge<br />

WINNER<br />

3 Previatti Consanni<br />

Don’t Worry, Be Happy<br />

This image uses a main subject<br />

as the focus, with a spacey<br />

background. The background<br />

was created with adjustments,<br />

layers and blend modes.<br />

4 Neil Kelly<br />

Spaceman<br />

This depicts a spaceman<br />

landing on a planet once<br />

inhabited by humans, but now<br />

only a ferry remains and no<br />

ocean. Adjustments blended<br />

everything together.<br />

2<br />

We challenged you with these<br />

In issue 151, we<br />

challenged you<br />

to get creative<br />

with these four<br />

images. You<br />

were allowed to<br />

use any or all of<br />

the pictures, and<br />

whatever other<br />

resources you<br />

chose. Here’s<br />

what you created.<br />

12


The PRiZe…<br />

Corel AfterShot 3<br />

This issue, one lucky winner<br />

will receive a copy of Corel’s<br />

photo-editing software,<br />

AfterShot 3. AfterShot<br />

is fantastic for RAW<br />

processing and is packed<br />

with a plethora of new features,<br />

including watermarking, blemish<br />

removal and an enhanced highlight<br />

recovery feature. This is a fantastic<br />

addition to any <strong>Photoshop</strong> user’s<br />

workflow, should you wish to make<br />

improvements to your photos.<br />

WORTH<br />

£79.99!<br />

RUnneRs’-UP PRiZe…<br />

WORTH $99!<br />

AKVIS Enhancer<br />

Three runners-up in<br />

this issue’s challenge,<br />

along with the winner,<br />

will all receive a copy<br />

of AKVIS Enhancer.<br />

Another photo-editing<br />

program, Enhancer<br />

is a great companion<br />

to your <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

workflow, dedicated<br />

to improving detail<br />

and tone.<br />

4<br />

3<br />

This issue’s challenge<br />

Think you can do better? Prove it!<br />

Get creative with the supplied images and you<br />

could win a fantastic prize! Use as many of the<br />

images as you like (from previous issues too!)<br />

and include your own photos if you wish. Head to<br />

www.photoshopcreative.co.uk and simply hit<br />

the Challenge link. Closing date: 17 August <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

13


25<br />

FILTERS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

OIL PAINT<br />

25 FILTERS<br />

THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR<br />

WORK<br />

Don’t dismiss filters as being an unsophisticated editing<br />

option; we reveal how they can elevate your work<br />

Filters can turn a good piece of artwork into a great piece of<br />

artwork. Whether you’re looking to add noise, reduce it, blur,<br />

sharpen, or create an artistic effect on a photo, there’s a filter<br />

for that. And the best part is they’re fun to experiment with!<br />

Filters can sometimes have a bad reputation in the<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> world, because they create simple, immediate<br />

effects in your work, which can look obviously edited. However,<br />

this is only if you don’t use them correctly: there are hundreds<br />

WHAT YOU WILL LEARN…<br />

of ways that you can subtly or dramatically change the look and<br />

feel of any project, just by using filters. They never have to just<br />

be the finishing touches either, because filters can be built upon<br />

or intertwined, for you to create stunning effects throughout all<br />

of your projects.<br />

Let’s delve into 25 of them, and look at how you can use<br />

them to not just add cool effects to your images, but actually<br />

change the way you work.<br />

LENS FLARE<br />

ILLUSTRATIONS<br />

Create amazing<br />

illustrations all with the<br />

help of ordinary filters,<br />

and bring a humble<br />

skyline to life.<br />

SURREAL ART<br />

Blend mind-bending<br />

tools and distortion<br />

filters together for<br />

projects that call for<br />

something special.<br />

DIGITAL<br />

ARTWORK<br />

Use filters to enhance digital<br />

artwork as well as photobased<br />

projects, and get the<br />

best from Brush Strokes.<br />

PORTRAITS<br />

Learn how to transform<br />

ordinary portraits with<br />

extraordinary effects,<br />

using filters for creating<br />

fire and ice.<br />

CAMERA RAW<br />

Discover the best features<br />

available in Camera Raw,<br />

and learn which sliders<br />

are the perfect ones to<br />

improve your photos.<br />

14


DESPECKLE<br />

FIELD BLUR<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

HIGH PASS<br />

REDUCE NOISE<br />

15


25<br />

FILTERS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

16<br />

Easy illustrations with Cutout<br />

Turn a photo into a vector-style image using two filters<br />

You don’t have to be a natural artist to draw; you can quickly create a cityscape<br />

illustration using the Cutout and Gaussian Blur filters, with a little help from the<br />

Pen Tool. Begin by opening ‘pex_169647_city.jpeg’ from the FileSilo.<br />

To apply the Cutout filter to just the buildings, grab the Pen and ensure Paths is<br />

selected, and then draw around the shape of the buildings. Create a selection<br />

around the working path and then apply Filter>Artistic>Cutout, set to 3, 2, 3.<br />

To enhance the gradient background of the image, select the original path and<br />

convert the path to Subtract from Shape Area (located in the Pen Options bar).<br />

Now create a selection around the sky and go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and<br />

amend Radius to 59px.<br />

You can also apply the Gaussian Blur filter to soften the edges of shapes. Begin<br />

by creating a number of long rectangles, convert them to a Smart Object and then<br />

the Gaussian Blur can be applied. Do the same to create a moon.


Bend with Polar Coordinates<br />

Combine this filter with edits to create surreal worlds<br />

Achieve an incredible effect using the Polar Coordinates filter, adjustment layers and<br />

colour corrections. It is a simple and fast effect that is easy to achieve using some basic<br />

techniques and tools in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. This technique offers countless possibilities of<br />

composition, so feel free to exploit it to its full creative extent.<br />

RADIAL BLUR<br />

Use Radial Blur (Filter>Blur>Radial<br />

Blur) to add a touch of motion in a<br />

circle around the image.<br />

SPHERIZE<br />

Go to Filter>Distort>Spherize to bring<br />

more focus on the subject and make<br />

the composition feel more globe-like.<br />

“It is a simple and fast effect<br />

that is easy to achieve using<br />

some basic techniques”<br />

Round things out<br />

01<br />

Create a 230mm x 310mm file, 300ppi.<br />

Open ‘pex_132983_ocean.jpg’. Go to<br />

Image>Image Size, (uncheck Constrain<br />

Proportions) and resize to 3000x3000px. Go to<br />

Filter>Distort>Polar Coordinates, select<br />

Rectangular to Polar. Drag the image to your file.<br />

Adjustments<br />

02<br />

Duplicate the layer once (Cmd/Ctrl+J) and<br />

rotate it 60° counter-clockwise, create a<br />

layer mask and paint over the line to remove it.<br />

Duplicate again, increase the size, create a layer<br />

mask and hide the middle parts. Create a Curves<br />

adjustment layer, move the line down.<br />

Finish the composition<br />

03<br />

Add some adjustment layers to the water,<br />

like Colour Balance and Brightness/<br />

Contrast. Insert ‘pex_241044_man.jpg’ in the<br />

centre and remove unnecessary parts. Add<br />

adjustment layers for the man; Colour Balance,<br />

Brightness/Contrast, Curves and Levels.<br />

17


25<br />

FILTERS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

“To make the<br />

woman’s skin<br />

softer, use Filter><br />

Blur>Surface Blur”<br />

Add special effects to portraits<br />

Combine multiple filters for a fantasy fire and ice world<br />

Create the snow<br />

01<br />

Create a new layer, set Foreground colour<br />

to black, place on the top of the layers<br />

and paint it (Alt+Del). Apply Filter>Noise>Add<br />

Noise, Amount: 90%, Distribution: Gaussian and<br />

tick Monochromatic. Use Levels (109, 1,00, 255),<br />

change blend mode to Screen and apply<br />

Filter>Blur>Motion Blur, Angle: -45° and<br />

Distance: 26px. Finally, add Filter>Artistic>Dry<br />

Brush, set to 2, 1, 3.<br />

Add some filters<br />

02<br />

To make the woman’s skin softer, use<br />

Filter>Blur>Surface Blur, set to 70, 5. To<br />

add realism to the ice side, duplicate the<br />

background, merge it and apply Filter>Artistic><br />

Plastic Wrap, set to 3, 10, 14 and make a mask to<br />

erase the unnecessary parts. Finally duplicate<br />

the background again and add the Diffuse Glow<br />

filter (Filter>Gallery>Distortion>Diffuse Glow),<br />

set to 6, 3, 16.<br />

Make the fire<br />

03<br />

Make a new layer, use the Pen Tool (P),<br />

draw a flame shape, go to<br />

Filter>Render>Flame, set Width to 70 and change<br />

blend mode to Screen. Duplicate all layers from<br />

the fire side, merge it, apply Filter>Distort>Glass)<br />

and set to 10, 12 - Frosted Texture. Create a new<br />

layer, set Foreground colour to black,<br />

Background to white, apply Filter>Render>Clouds<br />

and change the blend mode to Screen.<br />

18


Mold with Liquify and Displace<br />

Use these filters to bend objects to your will<br />

The Liquify and Displace filters are used to<br />

distort pixels in an image. However, there is<br />

a huge difference between them. Liquify is<br />

commonly used to create artistic effects by<br />

using tools to distort the pixels, Displace<br />

uses a greyscale map to distort the objects.<br />

In this project, we used Liquify to create a<br />

melting effect and Displace to blend the<br />

melted paws with the iceberg. To create the<br />

Displace Map, open the image you want to<br />

map, desaturate it, use Levels to adjust the<br />

grayscale tones, then save as .psd. To apply<br />

the filter, go to Filter>Distort>Displace,<br />

select the .psd file you created. To work<br />

with Liquify, go to Filter>Liquify. Grab the<br />

Forward Warp Tool and start pushing the<br />

pixels down and then push sideways and<br />

inward to make the trails thinner.<br />

19


25<br />

FILTERS THAT WILL<br />

CHANGE YOUR WORK<br />

Quickly boost your illustrations<br />

Apply Texturizer and Glowing Edges to make images pop<br />

If you’re no stranger to image-editing apps<br />

such as Instagram and <strong>Photoshop</strong> Mix,<br />

then you’re more than likely already aware<br />

of just how fun filters can be. Though<br />

lacking the likes of Valencia and X-Pro II,<br />

the default options in <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s Filter<br />

Gallery can still have a beautiful creative<br />

impact on your work.<br />

For example, if you don’t have access to<br />

suitable texture images or brushes, the<br />

Texturizer filter is a fitting substitute.<br />

Choose texture types such as Mosaic,<br />

Burlap and Canvas from the drop-down<br />

menu, and adjust using the sliders. Subtle<br />

details are best for detailed backgrounds,<br />

so keep the sliders low.<br />

To refine the edges of an illustration, you<br />

can get excellent results from the Glowing<br />

Edges filter. Apply it to your character<br />

illustration, and set the sliders to high<br />

settings. Set the layer to either Overlay or<br />

Colour Dodge, and set the Opacity to 20%<br />

or lower. This way, it will apply extra detail<br />

to your illustration without overpowering it.<br />

20


Before<br />

Sharpen<br />

Detail in a picture is key, but so is a lack of it;<br />

sharpen and reduce noise with these sliders.<br />

Basic adjustments<br />

Fix the tone, brightness and light using the basic<br />

adjustments on the first page of Camera Raw.<br />

Colour balance<br />

Get more from colours than adjustments can<br />

manage; alter hue, saturation and luminance.<br />

Edit images with Camera Raw<br />

Achieve professional retouches with this powerful filter<br />

The Camera Raw filter processes Raw files,<br />

and you can apply its sliders and effects to<br />

your pictures to fix everything from clarity<br />

and contrast, right through to saturation<br />

and split tone.<br />

If you’d like to fix a range of issues, just<br />

cycle through the features on the righthand<br />

side of the window and adjust all the<br />

sliders. The first page is full of basic<br />

adjustments that can really bring the<br />

essentials out of your picture; once you’ve<br />

made the necessary edits, click on the next<br />

Toning<br />

Add a split tone to finish and decide on the<br />

balance between the highlight and shade.<br />

icon and delve a little deeper into your<br />

picture, by fixing the tone, sharpening,<br />

editing colour and even applying effects<br />

based on camera make and model.<br />

“Fix everything from clarity and contrast, right<br />

through to saturation and split tone”<br />

21


Tutorial Master basic 3D in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Master basic 3D<br />

in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Get to grips with the essentials of <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s 3D tools to<br />

create a background scene for a digital painting<br />

Cities look beautiful at night, and they<br />

can be an attractive setting to use in<br />

digital paintings and illustrations.<br />

However, without any perspective tools or<br />

objects, city scenes can be an intimidating<br />

subject to paint. But with a little knowledge<br />

of <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s 3D tools, you can make this<br />

process a lot less painful.<br />

Before you start, make sure your computer<br />

is powerful enough to run the 3D software. If<br />

you have never modelled a 3D object in your<br />

life before, don’t worry. In this tutorial, we will<br />

be covering the absolute basics of creating<br />

and reshaping 3D objects in <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

Although <strong>Photoshop</strong>’s built-in 3D tools are<br />

not as powerful as the tools featured in<br />

dedicated programs such as Maya, they are<br />

certainly enough for creating shapes that fit<br />

the perspective of the scene you want to<br />

paint, which is exactly what we need to<br />

complete this cityscape piece.<br />

We will also be using illustrative and digital<br />

painting techniques to complete this image,<br />

so even if you do not intend to use 3D<br />

objects in your work on a regular basis, there<br />

are drawing and colour-editing techniques<br />

you may still find useful. Most importantly,<br />

though, be sure to have fun!<br />

Expert<br />

Rebekka<br />

Hearl<br />

“As a graduate of a 3D<br />

animation course, I am well<br />

versed in the use of 3D tools<br />

and modelling 3D objects,<br />

and applying them to my<br />

digital artwork.<br />

“I’ve been using <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

since my teens, and it is still<br />

a vital part of my workflow<br />

to this day. I don’t know how I<br />

managed to survive so many<br />

years without my Cintiq 13HD,<br />

and my favourite <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

tool is without a doubt the<br />

Brush Tool.”<br />

22


Want to cycle through Move tools? Press V In 3D mode<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

How to create and<br />

adjust a basic 3D object in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> CC<br />

Time taken<br />

9 hours<br />

23


Tutorial Master basic 3D in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Perspective reference<br />

01<br />

We will be using 3D objects as part of<br />

this tutorial, but perspective reference<br />

photos are still imperative to help you put the<br />

scene together. It’s useful to take photos of<br />

tall buildings and study the perspective from<br />

different angles. Keep them to hand and keep<br />

referring to them as you work.<br />

Begin sketching<br />

02<br />

Using the reference images you<br />

collected, sketch a rough idea for<br />

your scene. Create a new layer and select a<br />

hard brush, set to 15px. If you’re not confident<br />

when it comes to drawing perspective, feel<br />

free to trace one of the images you collected.<br />

Sketch your subject<br />

03<br />

Now your background is done, place<br />

your character in the scene. Create a<br />

new layer and, using the same brush, draw a<br />

character balancing on the wall you drew on<br />

the background layer. Remember, use as<br />

much reference material as you need. Add in<br />

basic shadows on a separate layer.<br />

Set up the colour palette<br />

04<br />

Create a new layer, above all layers, so it will be easy to<br />

access as you work. Using a large hard brush at 75px+,<br />

draw circles of the colours you want using the Colour Picker.<br />

These will be easily accessible later using the Eyedropper Tool.<br />

Load up the 3D space<br />

05<br />

Access the 3D tab by navigating to Window>3D. This will add the<br />

3D tab next to your Layers panel. Select Mesh From Preset, and<br />

select Cube from the drop-down menu. This will create a 3D cube and<br />

bring up the 3D navigation space.<br />

Prepare for adjustments<br />

06<br />

Don’t worry! Your sketch hasn’t been<br />

deleted. Think of this as a<br />

workspace entirely separate from your<br />

painting space. Select the Cube folder to edit<br />

the cube, and Scene to move the camera. In<br />

the Properties window, click the Coordinates<br />

icon, and switch off Uniform Scaling.<br />

Shape the cube<br />

07<br />

Now Uniform Scaling is off, we can<br />

elongate the cube. 3D objects are<br />

modelled by stretching or squashing them<br />

along Y, X and Z-axes. Increase the X-axis<br />

from 13 to 19, and the cube will stretch into a<br />

rectangular shape. Decrease the Z-axis.<br />

Adjust lighting<br />

08<br />

Below the Cube folder, select the<br />

Lighting folder. You can drag it<br />

around as you do with the camera. It will be<br />

helpful to set up the lighting now, so the cube<br />

will fit the scene. From the Properties panel,<br />

set Shadow Opacity to 0%. We won’t need it.<br />

24


Want to cycle through Move tools? Press V In 3D mode<br />

Duplicate cube<br />

09<br />

We will be using this cube to create an<br />

apartment building in our scene. To quickly<br />

give it shape, Ctrl/right-click the Cube folder and select<br />

Duplicate. This will create an exact copy. Notice how it<br />

clips through the other cube as you move it with the<br />

Move Tool.<br />

Apply to scene<br />

10<br />

Switch back to the Layers tab, and<br />

you’ll notice that the 3D object has<br />

been applied to your scene, exactly as you<br />

left it positioned in the 3D space. Go back to<br />

the 3D space to adjust the camera if it’s not<br />

sitting correctly. Line it up with your sketch.<br />

Expert tip<br />

Tweak the<br />

perspective<br />

Here’s a great tip for<br />

perspective drawings. As<br />

mentioned before, collecting<br />

perspective references<br />

is imperative for creating<br />

accurate environments,<br />

whether you’re studying<br />

perspective or editing the<br />

photos directly. But it can be<br />

frustrating looking for the<br />

angle you have in mind. If you<br />

take a photo that’s of a similar<br />

angle, of any subject, use the<br />

Transform Tool to rotate, flip<br />

and warp the image into the<br />

angle you need. Then create a<br />

new layer and draw over it.<br />

Overlay colour<br />

11<br />

Overlay some colour to make the grey<br />

3D object fit in the scene. Use the<br />

Eyedropper Tool to select the purple you<br />

used for the background, create a new layer<br />

above the cube, Ctrl/right-click and select<br />

Clipping Mask. Use the Paint Bucket Tool to<br />

fill the layer. Set it to Overlay, 50% Opacity.<br />

Start shading<br />

12<br />

Create another clipping mask layer<br />

above the cube, below the Overlay,<br />

and set to Multiply, 40% Opacity. Use the<br />

Shape and Marquee tools to draw straight<br />

lines on the front of your apartment building.<br />

On another clipping mask layer, colour some<br />

of the windows a cyan blue.<br />

Complete shading<br />

13<br />

Select a soft brush at 50px+, and set to<br />

60% Opacity, 80% Flow, and Multiply<br />

blend mode. Still using the same purple,<br />

shade the building. Paint harsh lines to create<br />

a concrete look. On a new layer, use a 10px<br />

hard brush to add graffiti.<br />

Add texture<br />

14<br />

Create a new layer set to Overlay, select the cyan, and<br />

use an airbrush to add a glow effect. If you have texture<br />

images to hand, find a scratchy one, or download one from a site<br />

like BittBox (bittbox.com). On another new layer, paste in the<br />

texture, set to Overlay, 20% Opacity.<br />

Finish drawing the character<br />

15<br />

With the background that will be sitting behind your character<br />

mostly finished, now’s the time to finish the character art. Create a<br />

new layer above the sketch layer, and use a hard round brush set to 12px<br />

and a dark purple to draw the lines.<br />

25


Tutorial Master basic 3D in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Quick flats<br />

16<br />

Create a new layer under the lines,<br />

and fill it with purple. Select outside<br />

the lines using the Magic Wand Tool. Go to<br />

Select>Expand>2px, and click OK. Select the<br />

colour layer, and hit delete. Turn on Lock<br />

Transparency, and use the Eyedropper and a<br />

hard brush to colour the character.<br />

Shade the character<br />

17<br />

Create a new layer above the flats,<br />

Ctrl/right-click and select Create<br />

Clipping Mask. Set the layer to Multiply, 45%<br />

Opacity and, using a hard brush at 20px+,<br />

draw in the purple shading. Keep the<br />

shadows crisp and contrasted, to fit the<br />

strong lighting of the scene.<br />

Background buildings<br />

18<br />

Using the same technique as we did<br />

for the first apartment building, create<br />

two more cube shapes for the background<br />

buildings. Repeat steps 12 and 13 to shade<br />

them in the same way.<br />

Add some foliage<br />

19<br />

On a new layer above the apartment buildings, use a<br />

textured brush set to 35px+ to draw in some trees. Use a<br />

dark grey/cyan; in this lighting, it will appear slightly green<br />

compared to all the purples. Set the brush to 30% Opacity and<br />

Multiply blend mode to shade the trees.<br />

Foreground wall<br />

20<br />

The character is still floating! Beneath her layer, create a new one<br />

and draw an angled wall using the Marquee Tool. Fill with a light<br />

purple, and then use the dark purple we used for all other shadows and a<br />

soft painting brush set to Multiply to shade it.<br />

Starry night sky<br />

21<br />

You can’t usually see stars in a city, but<br />

we’ll make an exception here. Create<br />

a layer below all others, and use the purple to<br />

draw a dark horizon. Use the square Shape<br />

Tool to draw building silhouettes. Shade using<br />

the soft brush, and add stars and lights with<br />

a small hard brush.<br />

Combine and contrast<br />

22<br />

With your painting complete, select<br />

all the layers, Ctrl/right-click and<br />

select Merge Layers. This will combine all<br />

your layers into one, making it easier to<br />

adjust the final colours. First go to Image><br />

Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast and set<br />

each parameter to 11.<br />

Gradient mapping<br />

23<br />

Select a saturated dark purple and a<br />

light yellow as your Foreground/<br />

Background colours, and go to Layer>New<br />

Adjustment Layer>Gradient Map. This will<br />

create a new layer that automatically applies<br />

colour effects to your image. Set to Overlay,<br />

and reduce Opacity to 30%. And it’s done!<br />

26


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28<br />

Tutorial Blend with layer masks


Show us your creative edits Tweet us @pshopcreative<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

Combine images for a<br />

double-exposure effect<br />

using masks<br />

Time taken<br />

2 hours<br />

Expert<br />

Andre<br />

Villanueva<br />

“Layer masks and blend<br />

modes are features I can’t<br />

live without. I especially<br />

love doing double-exposure<br />

experiments and surprising<br />

myself with combinations.<br />

“I discovered <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

while studying web design.<br />

Ater graduating, I taught in<br />

the media arts department.<br />

I’m now art director for a<br />

tech company, soothing my<br />

inner instructor by sharing<br />

techniques with readers.”<br />

Blend with<br />

layer masks<br />

Produce a trendy animal double-exposure effect using layer<br />

masks, blend modes and adjustment layers<br />

Double-exposure imagery has roots in<br />

photography. A juxtaposing of two (or even<br />

more) images due to multiple exposures,<br />

this technique oftentimes yields startlingly beautiful<br />

visuals. You’ve more than likely seen this effect on<br />

album covers, advertisements and posters.<br />

Double exposures can be achieved in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

using multiple layers stacked on top of one another<br />

and merged using layer masks and blend modes.<br />

Before you get to the blending, though, you’ll<br />

want to make selections of the playing pieces. Here<br />

you’ll start by selecting and isolating an animal and<br />

some mountains. You can certainly make the blend<br />

without isolating these, but freeing each from their<br />

respective backgrounds will give you flexibility in<br />

editing as well as deployment. Blending will be<br />

facilitated, and you can adjust the background or<br />

swap it altogether.<br />

The initial animal-mountainscape meld will be<br />

realised with masks. You’ll then enhance with<br />

blend modes, layering clouds with Screen and<br />

doing a bit of painting with Color and Pin Light.<br />

Some choice adjustments will help to add the final<br />

spit and polish.<br />

After completing the tutorial, why not try your<br />

own double exposure? Find a worthy animal or<br />

person, then pair your subject with an interesting<br />

scene or object.<br />

Mask the mountain<br />

01<br />

Open ‘landscape.psd’. Use the Quick Selection tool to select the<br />

mountains. Resize the brush with [ and ]. To remove from the<br />

selection, hold Option/Alt while using the tool. When done, press the Add<br />

Layer Mask button in the Layers palette. Save and close.<br />

Select animal<br />

02<br />

Open ‘animal.psd’. Use the Quick Selection tool to make<br />

a base selection of the animal. Use the Zoom tool to get<br />

up close as needed. When you have a decent selection, go to<br />

Select>Select and Mask [non-CC: Refine Edge].<br />

29


Tutorial Blend with layer masks<br />

Refine the selection<br />

03<br />

Paint with the Refine Edge Brush tool [non-CC: Refine Radius tool] along the<br />

fur and other areas to fine-tune. Resize brush with [ and ]. When done, set<br />

Output To to Layer Mask. Click OK.<br />

Clean up mask<br />

04<br />

If necessary, paint in the mask with the Brush<br />

tool for editing. Use black to hide and white to<br />

restore areas. Get up close with the Zoom tool. Adjust<br />

brush size and opacity as needed. Decrease/increase<br />

brush hardness with { and }.<br />

Situate backdrop<br />

05<br />

Click the ‘Create new fill or adjustment layer’ button in<br />

the Layers palette, choose Solid Colour. Pick #d0d3dc.<br />

Drag it below the animal layer. Click the animal layer. Press Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+J to duplicate. Click the lower animal layer’s mask. Press<br />

Cmd/Ctrl+I to invert the selection.<br />

Fade sky<br />

06<br />

Press Cmd/Ctrl+G. Add a layer mask to the group. Ensure the<br />

Foreground colour is black. Select the Gradient tool. In the options<br />

bar, set to Linear and 100% Opacity. Choose the Foreground to Transparent<br />

preset. Shift-click and drag down from the top to fade.<br />

Blend<br />

landscape<br />

07<br />

Select the top<br />

layer. Go to<br />

File>Place [CC: Place<br />

Embedded], grab<br />

‘landscape2.jpg’.<br />

Option/Alt+click the<br />

Add Layer Mask<br />

button from the<br />

Layers palette, then<br />

paint white in the<br />

mask at 40-60%<br />

brush Opacity to bring<br />

a bit back. Move or<br />

transform (Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+T) layer if needed.<br />

30


Show us your creative edits Tweet us @pshopcreative<br />

Add mountains<br />

08<br />

Place [CC:<br />

Place<br />

Linked] ‘landscape.<br />

psd’. Scale down and<br />

position on the<br />

animal’s back before<br />

committing. Add a<br />

layer mask. Paint<br />

black at 60-100%<br />

Opacity to fade the<br />

edges and merge<br />

with the animal.<br />

Expert tip<br />

Proper<br />

planning<br />

Investing in the planning<br />

phases of a double-exposure<br />

image can really pay off. Make<br />

sketches, jot down notes and<br />

look online and in magazines<br />

for inspiration. Gather stock<br />

photos and/or create your<br />

own assets. Line up different<br />

options for your images.<br />

When you’re in the heat of<br />

creation, stopping to search<br />

for alternate images can stunt<br />

your artistic flow. During your<br />

image search, try collecting<br />

some oddball images that<br />

catch your eye. They may be of<br />

use in a future project.<br />

Paint with colour<br />

09<br />

Click the ‘Create new fill or adjustment layer’ button from the<br />

Layers palette, choose Solid Colour. Pick #c68449. Set the blend<br />

mode to Colour. Click the mask and invert it (Cmd/Ctrl+I). Paint white at<br />

10-40% brush Opacity to help blend the masking.<br />

Place birds<br />

10<br />

Place [CC: Use Place Embedded from here on out]<br />

‘birds.jpg’. Scale down and position before committing. Set<br />

the blend mode to Darken. Remember where the birds are for the<br />

next step.<br />

Clean mask<br />

11 Option/<br />

Alt+click the<br />

Add Layer Mask<br />

button from the<br />

Layers palette,<br />

then paint white at<br />

80% brush Opacity<br />

to bring the birds<br />

back. Feel free to<br />

move the layer to<br />

reposition the birds.<br />

31


Tutorial Blend with layer masks<br />

Add clouds<br />

12<br />

Place ‘sky.jpg’. Scale down and position before committing. Set the<br />

blend mode to Screen. Option/Alt+click the Add Layer Mask button,<br />

then paint white at 40-60% brush Opacity to add the clouds.<br />

More clouds<br />

13<br />

Duplicate the sky layer or place ‘sky.jpg’ again, then move<br />

and edit or add mask. To duplicate quickly, select the<br />

Move Tool, hold Option/Alt, click and drag to copy and move in<br />

one stroke. From there, edit mask and transform layer if needed.<br />

Paint some cloudiness<br />

14<br />

Click the ‘Create new fill or adjustment layer’ button,<br />

choose Solid Colour. Pick #4987c6. Set the blend mode to<br />

Screen. Drop Opacity to 40%. Click the mask and invert it (Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+I). Paint white at 10-40% brush Opacity to ramp up the<br />

cloudy vibe.<br />

Merge layers<br />

15<br />

Make any last masking and positioning changes in the base<br />

composition. With the top layer selected, press Cmd/Ctrl+Option/<br />

Alt+Shift+E. Right-click on the layer, and then choose the Convert to Smart<br />

Object option.<br />

Enhance<br />

(<strong>Photoshop</strong> pre-CC)<br />

16<br />

[CC: skip to next step.]<br />

Go to Filter><br />

Sharpen>Unsharp Mask or<br />

Smart Sharpen, whichever<br />

you prefer. Adjust the<br />

settings to apply the desired<br />

amount of sharpening.<br />

When satisfied, click OK.<br />

Paint black in the filter mask<br />

to reduce in areas if needed.<br />

Skip to step 18.<br />

32


Show us your creative edits Tweet us @pshopcreative<br />

Enhance (CC)<br />

17<br />

Go to<br />

Filter>Camera<br />

Raw Filter. Use the<br />

various settings to<br />

enhance and sharpen the<br />

image. Increase Clarity<br />

and follow up by<br />

increasing Shadows: +76<br />

and Blacks: +50. Under<br />

Detail, utilise Sharpening,<br />

under Effects, utilise<br />

Dehaze and Post Crop<br />

Vignetting. Click OK when<br />

you are done.<br />

Expert edit<br />

Transplant your image<br />

Place your image<br />

01<br />

If you need to situate your image in<br />

another document, place the image<br />

PSD in the destination document. Use<br />

Place Linked in CC to stay linked.<br />

Blend with Pin Light<br />

18<br />

Click the ‘Create new fill or<br />

adjustment layer’ button, choose<br />

Solid Colour. Pick #80b2e5. Set the blend<br />

mode to Pin Light. Drop Opacity to 50%. Paint<br />

black in the mask at 10-40% brush Opacity to<br />

reduce in areas.<br />

Cool with Photo Filter<br />

19<br />

Click the ‘Create new fill or adjustment<br />

layer’ button, choose Photo Filter. Pick<br />

Cooling Filter (80). Set Density to 25%. Paint<br />

black in the mask at 10-40% brush Opacity to<br />

reduce the effect.<br />

Mask away edges<br />

02<br />

Add a layer mask to the placed<br />

image. Use black to fade edges via<br />

a soft-edged brush and/or a Foregroundto-Transparent<br />

Linear gradient.<br />

Edit background<br />

03<br />

If needed, adjust the background<br />

colours or textures to help the<br />

image look more at home. Add colour,<br />

mask additional texture and/or work in<br />

some adjustments.<br />

Finalise and save<br />

20<br />

Employ other adjustments to finalise the image. Check out Colour Lookup’s various<br />

presets such as FoggyNight and FuturisticBleak. Tone down the adjustments by<br />

reducing layer Opacity and/or painting black in the masks. Play with Colour Balance’s sliders.<br />

Fine-tune with Levels or Curves. When done, save your work.<br />

Add vignette<br />

04<br />

Merge layers at the top and<br />

convert to Smart Object. Go to<br />

Filter>Camera Raw Filter. Under Effects,<br />

adjust the Post Crop Vignetting settings.<br />

33


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How I made The Mystery Man of Maryland<br />

Essentials<br />

Time taken<br />

10 hours<br />

The artist<br />

Alexandru<br />

Savescu<br />

“I’m an artist<br />

who dabbles<br />

in a variety of styles,<br />

from traditional pen<br />

and ink illustrations and<br />

experimental printing, to<br />

digital painting and short<br />

animations. www.thepixelprositess.com<br />

I list Egon<br />

Schiele, @thepixelprosites Sergio Toppi,<br />

Moebius, Andrei Tarkovsky,<br />

Stanley Kubrick and Quentin<br />

Tarantino as key influences.<br />

“I have been a finalist<br />

three years in a row in the<br />

Folio Society and House of<br />

Illustration international<br />

competition in 2015, 2016 and<br />

also <strong>2017</strong>.”<br />

36


Show us your compositions Search for photoshopcreative<br />

The Mystery Man of<br />

Maryland<br />

How Alexandru Savescu concocted an atmosphere of film noir with <strong>Photoshop</strong> brushes,<br />

lots of research and adjustments<br />

has always been on narrative and conceptual<br />

illustration,” says Alexandru Savescu, a Romanian<br />

illustrator and graphic designer currently residing in<br />

London. “I am passionate about portraiture, traditional drawing and<br />

printing techniques.”<br />

Alexandru’s appreciation for all art forms is represented in this<br />

piece, The Mystery Man of Maryland. Alexandru used traditional<br />

drawing techniques, including type, in the piece, and listened to a lot of<br />

jazz to help create the atmosphere for his image; not to mention the<br />

“My focus<br />

effort he put into researching location. Ultimately though, <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

was the key tool in bringing all these inspirations together.<br />

“For me, <strong>Photoshop</strong> is a way of recreating these techniques and<br />

maximising productivity, helping me change and rework my ideas<br />

without interrupting the creative flow,” he says. “My favourite<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> tools, the very foundation of my illustrations, are actually<br />

quite common: the standard Brush and Eraser and the Lasso. Besides<br />

these, layer and clipping masks and colour overlays are my next<br />

favourite thing.”<br />

Preliminary sketches<br />

01<br />

My travelling drawing kit is a small tablet and a memory stick. After<br />

a thorough research on the location and time setting of the story<br />

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button by F Scott Fitzgerald, and a four hour<br />

flight, I made a few preliminary sketches.<br />

Colouring the image<br />

02<br />

Every colour I use is set to a specific layer and starts as<br />

100% black, which gets a colour overlay on top and<br />

textures applied as masks. I prefer doing this because it allows<br />

me to change my mind later on and I can also use the layers to<br />

screen-print the illustration any time.<br />

Build the composition<br />

03<br />

This is the part where <strong>Photoshop</strong> takes over from any<br />

traditional practice. I am a bit choosy with my colour<br />

palettes and it takes me a few hours and many different versions<br />

to decide. I used turquoise-vermillion colour contrast to create<br />

drama and heighten the action.<br />

Adjustments<br />

04<br />

A couple of colour layers are added on top with a reduced fill and<br />

opacity with either Difference or Exclude used as the blend mode.<br />

I then added a Color Lookup filter and I was done. I was listening to jazz<br />

music continuously throughout the process to get into character and this<br />

helped me create a detective/noir setting.<br />

37


Tutorial Create a fantasy scene<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

How to use layers in a<br />

creative way to compose a<br />

fantasy scene<br />

Time taken<br />

5 hours<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Expert<br />

Rodrigo<br />

Marinelli<br />

“<strong>Photoshop</strong> gives wings to<br />

my imagination. When I was<br />

a kid, one of my dreams was<br />

to leave my bedroom and go<br />

straight to the park with my<br />

friends. While I could never<br />

do this in real life, it’s possible<br />

in <strong>Photoshop</strong>!<br />

“I’m an art director and<br />

have 12 years of experience<br />

in advertising agencies. I<br />

learned and am still learning<br />

to use <strong>Photoshop</strong> through<br />

following tutorials.”<br />

Create a<br />

fantasy scene<br />

Let’s use layers to create an imaginative scene where a girl leaves<br />

her house and goes straight into a park<br />

A<br />

good way to create a unique scene is to<br />

mix reality with fantasy. To do that, it’s<br />

necessary to use your creativity to imagine<br />

how these two different worlds will blend into the<br />

same scene, in a way that is believable to the<br />

viewer. So, let’s learn which are the best tools to<br />

construct a scene like that.<br />

To create this image, we will work with many<br />

layers, so, it will be necessary to organise the<br />

workflow. As we will create every single part of the<br />

scene, it is also necessary to pay attention to the<br />

colour tone of the layers. It also helps to link<br />

adjustment layers and use the Feather to blend the<br />

photos into the scene. Another essential part of<br />

this tutorial is the mask command. This is an<br />

amazing tool that will help to mix different photos.<br />

After finishing this tutorial, create your own<br />

fantasy/reality scene and send us your image!<br />

38


To organise layers Set up groups (Cmd/Ctrl+G)<br />

Blend with mask<br />

01<br />

Create a new document (Cmd/Ctrl+N) at 230x180mm and place<br />

‘sky_01.jpg’. Add ‘sky_02.psd’ and place it on the top. To blend the<br />

image, click the Add Layer Mask button, set the Foreground colour to<br />

black, use the Brush Tool (B) and erase the unwanted parts, as above.<br />

Link the adjustment layers<br />

02<br />

Add the Chair layer from ‘bedroom_02.psd’ and place it<br />

as above. Set up a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer,<br />

hold Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt and click on the chair layer, then set it to 0,<br />

-33, 0. Make a mask (Step 1) to blend the image with the scene.<br />

Place the floor<br />

03<br />

Add the Floor layer from<br />

‘bedroom_02.psd’ and place it below<br />

the Chair layer. To make it fill the space, as in<br />

the image, duplicate it (Cmd/Ctrl+J) and<br />

make a mask (Step 1) to blend.<br />

Enhance the details<br />

04<br />

Add Layer 01 from ‘bedroom.psd’ and place it behind the Chair layer. To enhance the<br />

details in the image, duplicate the layer (Cmd/Ctrl+J), apply the High Pass filter<br />

(Filter>Other>High Pass) set to 1px and change the blend mode to Soft Light. Finally, make a<br />

mask (step 1) to blend the image.<br />

Add some details<br />

05<br />

Let’s add a few details to give depth to the scene. Add the Carpet<br />

layer from ‘bedroom.psd’ and place as in the image. Then, add<br />

the Top layer from the same file and place it at the top of the bedroom.<br />

Finally use a mask (Step 1) to blend.<br />

Create the shadows<br />

06<br />

Set the Foreground colour to #aa754e, create a new<br />

layer (Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+N) and pick the Brush Tool (B).<br />

Then, go to the Brush Preset Picker and choose a Soft Round<br />

brush. Change the blend mode to Multiply, adjust the Opacity to<br />

50% and paint in the shadows.<br />

39


Tutorial Create a fantasy scene<br />

Expert tip<br />

Attention to<br />

the details<br />

Always pay attention to<br />

highlights and shadows in<br />

your scene – they will help<br />

make it look realistic. Because<br />

the female figure is going<br />

from a bedroom to a park, it’s<br />

necessary to pay attention to<br />

the highlights and shadows<br />

to make the scene believable.<br />

To enhance the shadows of<br />

her face, use the Burn Tool (O),<br />

set the Exposure to 50% and<br />

gently paint the darkest parts.<br />

To enhance highlights, use the<br />

Dodge Tool (O) and repeat the<br />

same procedure.<br />

Apply the Feather command<br />

07<br />

Add the ‘biker.psd’ and place it in the<br />

centre of the scene. Activate the<br />

layer selection (Cmd/Ctrl+click on the layer<br />

thumbnail), apply the Feather (Shift+F6) set to<br />

1px, invert the selection (Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+I),<br />

and press delete three times. Finally, link a<br />

Levels adjustment layer (Step 2) and set it to<br />

12, 1.00, 247.<br />

Use the Free Transform Tool<br />

08<br />

Duplicate the biker layer (Cmd/Ctrl+J), activate<br />

the selection (Cmd/Ctrl+click the thumbnail),<br />

set the Foreground colour to black, paint it (Alt+Del)<br />

and use a Gaussian Blur (Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur) at<br />

10px. Use the Free Transform Tool (Cmd/Ctrl+T) then<br />

hold Cmd/Ctrl and adjust the perspective.<br />

Create the park<br />

09<br />

Add the ‘skateboard.jpg’ and place it below the bedroom/biker layers. Add<br />

‘skateboard_02.jpg’ and place it above ‘skateboard.jpg.’ Use a mask (step 1)<br />

to erase the unnecessary parts and to blend the images. Link a Colour Balance<br />

adjustment layer (step 2) set to 0, 0, -39, as well as a Levels one set to 24, 1.00, 255.<br />

Layer group with mask<br />

10<br />

Create a new layer (Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+N) and use<br />

the Pen Tool (P) to draw a shape as shown<br />

above. Activate the selection (Cmd/Ctrl+Enter), create a<br />

layer group (Cmd/Ctrl+G) and press the Add Layer<br />

Mask button. After that, place the Floor layer from<br />

‘bedroom_02.psd’ inside the folder.<br />

Add the grass<br />

11<br />

Add ‘grass.psd’ and place it below the bedroom layers,<br />

then add ‘grass_02.psd’, place it above and make a mask<br />

(step 1) to blend. Create a new layer, set the colour to black, use<br />

the Brush Tool (B), change the blend mode to Soft Light and<br />

brush in the shadow.<br />

Compose the scene<br />

12<br />

Let’s add more elements to make the scene realistic. First, add<br />

‘plane.psd’ and set the Feather command (step 7) to 1px. Then, add<br />

‘birds.jpg’ and apply the Feather at 0.5px.<br />

40


To organise layers Set up groups (Cmd/Ctrl+G)<br />

Add depth to the scene<br />

13<br />

Now, add ‘leaves.psd’ and place at the top of the scene. To give<br />

more depth to the image, apply a Gaussian Blur (Filter>Blur><br />

Gaussian Blur) set to 15px. Duplicate it (Cmd/Ctrl+J) and place at the<br />

bottom of the scene, as in the image above.<br />

Change the colour<br />

14<br />

Add ‘butterfly.psd’ and place it on the grass. To change its<br />

colour, link a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer (step 2)<br />

and set to 197, 53, 0. Add the ‘butterfly.psd’ again, place it under<br />

the leaf on the bottom and apply a 10px Gaussian Blur filter.<br />

Use the gradient<br />

mask<br />

15<br />

Add ‘basketball.<br />

psd’, duplicate it,<br />

flip it vertically<br />

(Edit>Transform>Flip<br />

Vertically) and change the<br />

Opacity to 30%. Add a<br />

mask, use the Gradient<br />

Tool (G), go to the Gradient<br />

Picker, select Foreground<br />

to Transparent and gently<br />

erase the image. Now<br />

add ‘soccer.jpg’ and<br />

‘roller_skates.jpg’ and<br />

repeat the procedure.<br />

Simple highlights<br />

16<br />

Add Layer_01 from ‘smoke.psd’, change the blend mode to Screen<br />

and place it in the middle of the scene. Then, add Layer_02 from<br />

the same photo, place it at the bottom of the scene and change the blend<br />

mode to Screen.<br />

Set the colour tone<br />

17<br />

Let’s use different adjustment layers for both sides.<br />

Create a layer group with mask (step 10) and for the left<br />

side, use Brightness/Contrast (0, 20), Levels (19, 1.00, 255), Photo<br />

Filter (Warming 85) and Colour Lookup (3Strip.look). For the right<br />

side, add Levels (7, 1.00, 255), Brightness/Contrast (15, 16), Photo<br />

Filter (Warming 85) and Colour Lookup (3Strip.look).<br />

41


42<br />

Tutorial Turn any photo into an abstract oil painting


Want different results? Repeat the Glass and Oil Paint filters<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

How to use filters to<br />

apply an abstract painting<br />

effect on a photo<br />

Time taken<br />

1-3 hours<br />

Expert<br />

BÜRO<br />

UFHO<br />

“We found that combining<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong>’s Oil Paint filter<br />

with other filters can yield<br />

some interesting results.<br />

“Being both an artist,<br />

under the moniker kittozutto,<br />

and graphic design studio,<br />

BÜRO UFHO, we have been<br />

using <strong>Photoshop</strong> for over<br />

10 years. In 2015, we had<br />

the privilege to be invited<br />

by Adobe, together with 70<br />

artists, to celebrate its 25th<br />

Anniversary of <strong>Photoshop</strong>.”<br />

Turn any photo<br />

into an<br />

abstract oil<br />

painting<br />

Transform a photograph with the use of filters in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

There are several ways to create an oil<br />

painting effect in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. The fastest<br />

and easiest way is a rather cool feature, aptly<br />

named the Oil Paint filter. It enables you to take<br />

any photo and easily turn it into a ‘painting’ by<br />

tweaking a few sliders. As is the case with many<br />

other <strong>Photoshop</strong> filters, using it alone creates a<br />

common-looking, much less interesting result.<br />

However, combining it with other filters opens up a<br />

whole new world of possibilities.<br />

In this tutorial, we’ll take you through the process<br />

of transforming a mandrill photo into an illustration,<br />

and show you how we use filters in <strong>Photoshop</strong> to<br />

speed up and achieve a painting effect. We’ll also<br />

show you how to prepare your image before<br />

applying the filters to get the result we want. Check<br />

out our Expert Tip for more specific advice on the<br />

Blend-If sliders.<br />

The images used in this tutorial are all provided<br />

on the FileSilo. You can also download the layered<br />

PSD to get a better understanding of exactly how<br />

you can build up your artwork. Once you have<br />

worked through the technique, you can try applying<br />

it to other kinds of photos.<br />

Import the image<br />

01<br />

Begin by searching for your desired<br />

image from your own library or the<br />

web. We will be using a mandrill image we<br />

found as a base for our painting. Place your<br />

guidelines according to the rule of thirds,<br />

and drag the image into your canvas.<br />

Content-Aware fill<br />

02<br />

We are going to extend the image.<br />

Using the Rectangular Marquee Tool,<br />

click and drag to make a selection at the top<br />

of the image. Go to Edit>Fill>Content-Aware.<br />

Repeat to extend the bottom and both sides<br />

of the image.<br />

Patch Tool<br />

03<br />

Depending on your image, some<br />

weird artifacts may result. We’re<br />

going to remove these by using the Patch<br />

Tool. Select the area you wish to clean up,<br />

and simply drag to the area you wish to<br />

sample. Repeat this a few times to<br />

thoroughly remove any strange areas.<br />

43


Tutorial Turn any photo into an abstract oil painting<br />

Liquify Tool<br />

04<br />

Go to Filter>Liquify. Using the Forward<br />

Warp Tool, slowly push the beard<br />

outwards so that the edges are vertically<br />

straight to keep the illustration clean and<br />

geometric. Using the Bloat Tool, click on the eye<br />

a few times to enlarge it.<br />

Add details<br />

05<br />

Using a black Soft Round brush, roughly brush in the mouth. On a new layer, use a<br />

white Soft Round brush to paint over the highlight areas, use black for shadow<br />

areas. Set the blending mode to Soft Light to make these areas more defined.<br />

Achieve symmetry<br />

06<br />

Select the left side of the image with<br />

the Rectangular Marquee Tool,<br />

Cmd/Ctrl+J to duplicate, Cmd/Ctrl+T to<br />

transform. Right-click and select Flip<br />

Horizontal. Shift the layer accordingly to<br />

achieve symmetry.<br />

High Pass sharpening<br />

07<br />

We’re going to bring out some of the<br />

details for the oil painting effect. Go<br />

to Filter>Other>High Pass. Set Radius to 1px.<br />

Set the layer blending mode to Linear Light,<br />

Opacity at 40%. Select the layers and Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+E to merge them.<br />

Glass Filter<br />

08<br />

Go to Filter>Filter Gallery>Distort><br />

Glass. Set Distortion and<br />

Smoothness to 15, Texture: Tiny Lens,<br />

Scaling: 200%. Check Invert. Your image will<br />

now be transformed into an abstract pattern.<br />

Oil Paint filter<br />

09<br />

Now enlarge the image to fill up the canvas. Go to<br />

Filter>Oil Paint. Set Stylization and Cleanliness to 5,<br />

Scale to 10, Bristle Detail and Shine to 0. Hit Cmd/Ctrl+F to apply<br />

the filter again.<br />

Bas Relief filter<br />

10<br />

Use Cmd/Ctrl+J to duplicate the layer. Go to Filter>Filter Gallery><br />

Sketch>Bas Relief. Set Detail to 13, Smoothness to 3, Light at Top<br />

Left. Hit Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+U to desaturate the layer. Set the blending mode<br />

to Overlay, with Opacity at 30%.<br />

44


Want different results? Repeat the Glass and Oil Paint filters<br />

Noise filter<br />

11<br />

Import ‘paint-268231.jpg’ and drag into your<br />

canvas. Desaturate the image. Set blending<br />

mode to Soft Light, Opacity to 25%. On a new black<br />

layer, go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise. Set Amount to<br />

55%, select Uniform, check Monochromatic. Set<br />

blending mode to Soft Light.<br />

Selective Colour<br />

12<br />

Add a Selective Colour adjustment<br />

layer. We’re going to add a more<br />

purplish hue than the original colours. On the<br />

Cyans channel, set Cyan to -55, Magenta: +22,<br />

Yellow: -100. On the Blues channel, set Cyan:<br />

-100, Magenta: +35, Yellow: -100.<br />

Expert tip<br />

Blend-If<br />

sliders<br />

Blend-If is a powerful tool for<br />

layer blending that lets you<br />

manipulate specific areas to<br />

blend based on light and dark<br />

tone. Under layer Blending<br />

Options, holding down the Opt/<br />

Alt key and drag the Blend-If<br />

slider out. Holding down the<br />

Alt/Option key causes the<br />

slider to split in half. This will<br />

smooth your layer blending<br />

and create more transition<br />

between the two layers. We’ve<br />

used this to only affect the<br />

Magenta Photo Filter on the<br />

darker tones of the image.<br />

Photo Filter adjustment<br />

13<br />

Add a Warming Filter (85) Photo Filter<br />

adjustment layer. Next, add a<br />

Magenta Photo Filter adjustment layer. Use<br />

the Blend-If slider to avoid affecting the white<br />

areas so that the whites don’t become too<br />

magenta. Check out our Expert Tip on the<br />

Blend-If slider.<br />

More Selective Colour<br />

14<br />

Add a Hue/Saturation adjustment<br />

layer. Set Hue: +5, Saturation: +35.<br />

Add a second Selective Colour adjustment<br />

layer. On the Reds channel, set Magenta and<br />

Yellow to -24. On the Neutral channel, set<br />

Cyan: +14, Magenta: -8, Yellow: -13.<br />

Levels and Brightness<br />

15<br />

Add a Levels adjustment layer. Pull in<br />

the blacks to 44, and whites to 199.<br />

Use the Blend-If slider to avoid affecting the<br />

black areas and only brighten the light areas.<br />

Add a Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer<br />

and set Contrast to 11.<br />

Import texture<br />

16<br />

Import ‘red-652716.jpg’ and drag into your canvas.<br />

Desaturate the image. Set blending mode to Soft Light,<br />

Opacity to 50%. On a new layer, use a white Soft Round brush to<br />

paint over highlight areas, black for shadow areas. Set blending<br />

mode to Soft Light to make these areas more defined.<br />

Texturizer filter<br />

17<br />

Go to Filter>Filter Gallery>Texture>Texturizer. Set Texture to Canvas,<br />

Scaling to 200%, Relief to 50, Light at Top. Set the layer blending<br />

mode to Soft Light, Opacity to 50%.<br />

45


Tutorial Create a 3D-style logo<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

Use the Pen Tool, layer<br />

styles, blend modes, Smart<br />

Objects for a 3D effect<br />

Time taken<br />

1.5 hours<br />

Start<br />

image<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Expert<br />

Moe<br />

Hezwani<br />

“Logo design is a big aspect<br />

of my daily work. I’m always<br />

asked to create a number of<br />

styles and I’m grateful for the<br />

techniques and tools I can<br />

use in <strong>Photoshop</strong> to help me<br />

design all these logos.<br />

“I’m a professional graphic<br />

designer/illustrator and<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> is my go-to<br />

platform. I enjoy playing<br />

around with <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

to mix photography and<br />

illustration to build an image.”<br />

Create a 3Dstyle<br />

logo<br />

Discover how to create an out-of-this-world logo design using layer<br />

styles, Smart Objects and Blur filters<br />

Every great company needs a brand logo – if<br />

it is original and eye-catching, it will help a<br />

company stand out. Most logos use<br />

typography, but it would be too ordinary to just<br />

use a standard font; why not create your own?<br />

Planning what you want your logo to look like is<br />

one of the most important stages in logo design<br />

development. Use the name of the company to<br />

help you decide on design elements, for example<br />

in this tutorial the company is called ‘Planet<br />

Direct’, therefore a rocket with some stars is a<br />

happy complement to the company name; really<br />

have fun with your design.<br />

In this tutorial you will learn how to create an<br />

original and eye-catching logo by using a number<br />

of different <strong>Photoshop</strong> tips and tricks. Discover<br />

how to give your text depth and how to customise<br />

it with the help of the Pen Tool and layer styles.<br />

46


Keep your shape layers organised Group them (Cmd/Ctrl+G)<br />

Create a background<br />

01<br />

Create a black 240x190mm document, then<br />

grab the Ellipse Shape Tool and draw a large<br />

circle in the centre of the canvas. Hold Shift for a<br />

symmetrical circle. Now Ctrl/right-click the circle layer<br />

and click Convert to Smart Object. Then go<br />

Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and amend the Radius to<br />

250px and set the layer blend mode to Soft Light.<br />

Background vignette<br />

02<br />

Draw the same sized circle as Step 1,<br />

but this time change the shape<br />

options to Subtract From Shape. This will<br />

give you a vignette shape. To soften it, convert<br />

the shape to a Smart Object and add a 250px<br />

Gaussian Blur. Now set the blend mode to<br />

Vivid Light and Opacity to 50%.<br />

Expert tip<br />

No Pen<br />

Tool?<br />

For most of this tutorial, you<br />

will mostly be using layer<br />

styles, the Ellipse Tool and<br />

Blur filters, which Elements<br />

users can do. Unfortunately,<br />

Elements users don’t have<br />

access to the Pen Tool, and<br />

this tutorial uses the Pen Tool<br />

to trace around the sketch<br />

from step 3. Instead of using<br />

the Pen Tool, use the Brush<br />

Tool very carefully to trace<br />

around the sketch, but still<br />

make sure you trace each<br />

section of the sketch into<br />

separate layers.<br />

Draw the logo<br />

03<br />

Open ‘fo_start_<br />

image.jpg’ from<br />

the FileSilo and use the<br />

Pen Tool, set to Shapes,<br />

to trace around the<br />

sketch. It is very<br />

important to this tutorial<br />

that each section of the<br />

logo is on its own shape<br />

layer; for instance, the<br />

front part of the rocket<br />

will be on a separate layer<br />

to the inner 3D section.<br />

Add a gradient overlay<br />

04<br />

Once you have drawn the whole logo, it is time to add<br />

some colour to it. Start by adding a gradient to the front<br />

of the rocket. To do this, bring up the layer styles and select<br />

Gradient Overlay. Make the first colour stop a dark orange and<br />

the second a light orange.<br />

Align gradients together<br />

05<br />

When creating an illustration with a large number of gradient<br />

styles, you want to ensure the Align with Layer box is always<br />

ticked. Ensuring the box is ticked means all your gradients will<br />

simultaneously align together, so if you move the angle on one gradient<br />

layer style, all your gradients will move with it.<br />

47


Tutorial Create a 3D-style logo<br />

Expert edit<br />

Enhance the shadows<br />

Black layer<br />

01<br />

Only darken the inside shapes<br />

of the logo, eg the inside of the<br />

T. Firstly create a new layer above the T<br />

shape, fill with black, set Opacity: 70%.<br />

Glow with inner shadow<br />

06<br />

After applying the gradients, add a<br />

white glowing key line around the<br />

foreground shapes, for instance, the front<br />

section of the rocket, stars, etc. To do this,<br />

select Inner Shadow from layer styles and<br />

change the Blend Mode to Screen and Color<br />

to white, Distance: 8px, Choke: 2%, Size: 10px,<br />

and check Use Global Light.<br />

A glowing key line<br />

07<br />

Add an Outer Glow to all the shape<br />

layers you added an inner shadow to<br />

and amend the following settings to create a<br />

soft glow: Blend Mode: Soft Light, Opacity:<br />

60%, set Color to a light orange, Spread: 10%,<br />

and Size: 50px.<br />

Create a selection<br />

02<br />

Start by creating a selection<br />

around the inside of the T shape.<br />

To select a shape layer, simply Cmd/rightclick<br />

on its layer’s thumbnail.<br />

Enhance the glow<br />

08<br />

To make the<br />

glows really pop,<br />

create a new layer,<br />

change its blend mode to<br />

Overlay and make a<br />

selection around the front<br />

part of the rocket. Grab a<br />

white soft brush and<br />

change its Opacity to 40%,<br />

then start to brush<br />

around the edges of the<br />

rocket. Repeat for the rest<br />

of the front shapes.<br />

Add a mask<br />

03<br />

Now click the Add Layer Mask<br />

button located at the bottom of the<br />

Layers panel and create a mask over the<br />

new black layer.<br />

Brush to erase<br />

04<br />

With the mask thumbnail<br />

selected, ensure the Foreground<br />

colour is set to black and use the Brush<br />

Tool to erase any black fill you don’t need.<br />

Create a dark shadow<br />

09<br />

To darken the inner sections of the<br />

logo, eg the inside of the rocket,<br />

start with the inside section of the flame,<br />

select its shape layer and select the Inner<br />

Shadow layer style. Change the settings to;<br />

Blend Mode: Multiply, Color: black, Opacity: 21,<br />

Distance: 14px, Choke: 15% and Size 38px.<br />

Outer Box Blur glow<br />

10<br />

First duplicate the entire rocket and<br />

flame shapes, merge them together<br />

and move behind the shape layers. Next, add<br />

an outer glow and amend the settings to<br />

Blend Mode: Soft Light, Opacity: 40%, set<br />

Color to white, Spread: 20%, and Size: 3px.<br />

Finally, go Filter>Blur>Box Blur and change<br />

the Radius to 30px.<br />

48


Keep your shape layers organised Group them (Cmd/Ctrl+G)<br />

Expert edit<br />

Try these adjustments<br />

A final outer glow<br />

11<br />

This time, duplicate all the foreground<br />

shapes; this will include the front part<br />

of the rocket, circles, flame and letters. Once<br />

duplicated, merge the layers together,<br />

change the Opacity to 70% and the Fill to 0%<br />

and add an Outer Glow layer style. Amend<br />

the settings to: Opacity: 60%, Spread: 10%<br />

and Size: 40px.<br />

A starry foreground<br />

12<br />

Start by opening ‘pex_119685_space.jpg’<br />

from FileSilo, go to Select>All and hit<br />

Cmd/Ctrl+C to copy the starry background.<br />

Head back to your logo canvas and hit Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+V to paste it into the canvas. Next, change<br />

the Opacity of the starry image to 70% and the<br />

blend mode to Colour Dodge.<br />

Gradient maps<br />

Gradient maps add different hues,<br />

depending on where light and dark tones<br />

are. They’re great for transforming the<br />

entire colour of an image with a few clicks.<br />

Foreground<br />

vignette<br />

13<br />

Duplicate the<br />

background<br />

vignette from Step 2, drag<br />

it to the top of your<br />

Layers panel and change<br />

the blend mode to Soft<br />

Light. Now amend the<br />

Gaussian Blur filter. To do<br />

this, simply double-click<br />

Gaussian Blur on the<br />

layer and amend the<br />

Radius to 341.6px.<br />

Colour Balance<br />

The Colour Balance adjustment will<br />

enhance the colours already in an image.<br />

Tweak between Cyan/Red, Magenta/Green<br />

and Yellow/Blue.<br />

Colour Lookup<br />

For a professional-looking tone, Colour<br />

Lookup can help. Choose from the dropdown<br />

menus and switch the blend mode to<br />

lessen the effect if need be.<br />

Hue/Saturation adjustment<br />

14<br />

Add a Hue/Saturation adjustment<br />

layer to enhance the colours of the<br />

overall logo design. To add a new adjustment<br />

layer, go Layers>New Adjustment<br />

Layer>Hue/Saturation and amend the<br />

Saturation to +22.<br />

Brighten up the canvas<br />

15<br />

Finally, brighten and boost the<br />

contrast to add a final touch of depth.<br />

This time, use a Brightness/Contrast<br />

adjustment layer and amend the Brightness<br />

to +9 and Contrast to +15.<br />

Curves<br />

The Curves feature is a versatile<br />

adjustment: use it to alter the red, green or<br />

blue of your image, as well as the whites,<br />

blacks, lights and darks.<br />

49


Tutorial Create a 3D-style logo<br />

Logo measurements Essential dimensions for social media platforms<br />

FACEBOOK<br />

TWITTER<br />

Logo/profiLe –<br />

180 x 180px<br />

Any logo or profile<br />

picture must be a<br />

minimum of 180 x 180px,<br />

but it’ll appear as 160 x<br />

160px and be displayed<br />

throughout as 32 x 32px.<br />

Cover photo –<br />

828 x 515px<br />

Any images used for<br />

your cover photo will<br />

be stretched to 828<br />

x 515px, but you can<br />

upload an image that’s<br />

a minimum of 399 x<br />

150px.<br />

Logo/profiLe –<br />

400 x 400px<br />

The logo or profile image<br />

area on Twitter uploads<br />

as 400 x 400px. You can<br />

upload JPEGs, PNGs or<br />

GIFs.<br />

Cover photo –<br />

1500 x 500px<br />

Any image you upload as<br />

your cover photo should<br />

be a wide landscape, but<br />

Twitter will reduce it to<br />

1500 x 500px. Keep the<br />

main focus in the middle<br />

of the image.<br />

YOUTUBE<br />

TUMBLR<br />

video upLoads –<br />

1280 x 760px<br />

Every video needs a<br />

display image, and this<br />

should measure in at<br />

1280 x 760px, as this<br />

qualifies as HD, with a<br />

16:9 ratio.<br />

Cover photo –<br />

2560 x 1440px<br />

Keep this to 2560 x 1440px<br />

to have the highest<br />

resolution. Cover photo<br />

sizes will vary depending<br />

on device; it will show up<br />

as <strong>154</strong>6 x 423px on your<br />

mobile, for example.<br />

Logo/profiLe –<br />

128 x 128px<br />

Your profile image on<br />

Tumblr will be shrunk<br />

down to 128 x 128px,<br />

but will show up as 64<br />

x 64px when scrolling<br />

through your news feed.<br />

Max iMage size<br />

– 500 x 750px<br />

Images will show up<br />

in the news feed as<br />

a maximum of 500<br />

x 750px, but you can<br />

upload images as large<br />

as 1280 x 1920px.<br />

50


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Tutorial Create block animals with Liquify<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Works with<br />

Elements<br />

CS6+<br />

CC<br />

What you’ll learn<br />

How to use the Liquify<br />

filter’s Forward Push Tool<br />

and Freeze Mask Tool<br />

Time taken<br />

1 hour<br />

Expert<br />

Sarah<br />

Cousens<br />

“As an animal lover, I oten<br />

ind that cute furry critters<br />

become the focus of my<br />

designs. Combined with my<br />

interest in the surreal, this<br />

block efect has me hooked.<br />

“I am a designer and<br />

illustrator and have been<br />

using <strong>Photoshop</strong> ever since<br />

forming my own design and<br />

illustration company, Cool<br />

Surface Ltd, ten years ago.”<br />

Create block<br />

animals with<br />

Liquify<br />

Have<br />

You may think small furry animals are pretty<br />

cute to begin with, but this charming 3D<br />

animal-cube effect gives them a whole new<br />

level of adorable quirkiness. Created almost<br />

exclusively with the Liquify filter, it is a simple<br />

technique that is so satisfying and fun to use, with<br />

amusing results!<br />

One key thing to remember is that you only get<br />

one level of undo within the Liquify filter. Undo<br />

once, and that’s it – no going back any further. This<br />

can be very frustrating when you have been<br />

carefully pushing pixels for several minutes only to<br />

fun pushing pixels around to<br />

make this cute cuboid gerbil<br />

make a couple of dodgy brush strokes and ruin it<br />

all! For this reason, we recommend you periodically<br />

click OK to apply the progress you have made with<br />

the filter so far, for example immediately after you<br />

have edited one small body part, then return to the<br />

Liquify filter again to continue with your artwork.<br />

As you manipulate the image, imagine the<br />

animal’s body as being made up of 3D shapes;<br />

think about their positions, the perspective, and<br />

how the different shapes would connect with each<br />

other. Once you get the hang of it, you can have<br />

fun trying this technique out on other animals, too.<br />

52


Check out the latest blog www.photoshopcreative.co.uk<br />

Open the start image<br />

01<br />

Open ‘pix_1238228_gerbil.psd’. Press Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+J to duplicate the background layer, in<br />

order to preserve a copy. Go to Filter>Liquify (or press<br />

Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+X) and select the Forward Warp Tool.<br />

Choose a Brush Size of around 400, Brush Density: 16,<br />

Brush Pressure: 100 and Brush Rate: 20.<br />

Straighten the back<br />

02<br />

Start to click and drag along the left edge of the gerbil’s body to manipulate<br />

it into a straight edge. Using a larger brush size creates a more natural<br />

result and prevents the fur projecting over the edges from being compressed.<br />

Create corners and edges<br />

03<br />

Create a diagonal edge at the top of the gerbil’s back, leading towards his ear. Use a<br />

smaller brush size (around 80) to create a sharper corner at the top of his back.<br />

Flatten the top of the head.<br />

Edit the leg<br />

04<br />

On the right leg, create a flattened<br />

edge along the bottom, with a<br />

corner each side, dragging outwards with a<br />

large brush size, then refining the corners<br />

with a smaller size. Flatten and straighten the<br />

underneath of the gerbil’s body.<br />

Now the other leg<br />

05<br />

On the left leg, create a 3D cuboid shape, remembering to use a<br />

fairly large brush size (around 150) to prevent the edge becoming<br />

compressed and losing the soft blurred appearance. A smaller brush (eg<br />

60) can be used to sharpen the corners.<br />

Apply a Freeze Mask<br />

06<br />

To preserve the progress made so far, select the Freeze<br />

Mask Tool within the Liquify filter and apply a mask over<br />

the straightened edges of the gerbil, and also over his paws as<br />

we want to leave these unchanged.<br />

53


Tutorial Create block animals with Liquify<br />

Expert tip<br />

Liquify<br />

shortcuts<br />

When you activate the Liquify<br />

filter, you enter a dedicated<br />

workspace. The same rules<br />

for keyboard shortcuts<br />

apply within this window.<br />

Each Liquify tool has its own<br />

shortcut (eg press W for the<br />

Forward Warp Tool, or press<br />

F for the Freeze Mask Tool),<br />

and other common keyboard<br />

shortcuts can also be used.<br />

For example, the bracket keys<br />

can be used to adjust brush<br />

sizes, and while using the<br />

Freeze Mask Tool, you can<br />

hold Alt and paint to subtract<br />

from the masked area.<br />

Cheek and arms<br />

07<br />

Switch back to the Forward Warp Tool, drag<br />

his cheek down and left and create more of a<br />

squared shape. Alter his arm to create a sharper<br />

right-angled point at the elbow, then a straight edge<br />

along the bottom and up the left side of the arm.<br />

Extend the Freeze Mask<br />

08<br />

Once you are happy with these<br />

areas, paint over them with the<br />

Freeze Mask Tool to preserve them, then<br />

also apply the Freeze Mask to the whiskers<br />

on the right side to prevent them from<br />

becoming distorted.<br />

Edit the nose<br />

09<br />

Switch back to the Forward Warp<br />

Tool. Straighten the edges of the<br />

bridge of the gerbil’s nose, and straighten the<br />

underneath of his mouth. Reduce the brush<br />

size so you have the necessary control to<br />

turn the pink tip of his nose into a square.<br />

Create a rectangular ear<br />

10<br />

With the Freeze Mask preserving the straight edge of the gerbil’s back, use the<br />

Forward Warp Tool on the left ear to create a rectangular shape. Zoom in to tidy and<br />

straighten the edges, and adjust the fur within the ear so it maintains a natural curved shape.<br />

Tweak the other ear<br />

11<br />

For the right ear, think of it as a similar 3D shape to the left ear, but<br />

angling away from the viewer. Create a diagonal top edge, then a<br />

straight vertical edge on the right.<br />

Now for the eyes<br />

12<br />

Apply the Freeze Mask on an area around the eye, then<br />

use the Forward Warp Tool to create a square-shaped<br />

eye. Use a small brush size to make the corners and edges<br />

sharp. Also straighten the light and shadows within the eye.<br />

Flatten the right eye.<br />

54


Check out the latest blog www.photoshopcreative.co.uk<br />

Feet and tail<br />

13<br />

Slightly straighten the edges of the feet and toes, but take care not<br />

to create edges or corners that are too sharp, as this will contrast<br />

unnaturally with their blurriness. Straighten the tail, working your way<br />

along it gradually, and square off the tip.<br />

Add a shadow layer<br />

14<br />

Add a new layer at the top of the layer stack, name it<br />

Shadows, set the blending mode to Multiply and layer<br />

Opacity to 30%. Use a Soft Round Brush with R: 80 G: 47 B: 25 to<br />

paint in shadows beneath the gerbil.<br />

Angular<br />

shadows<br />

15<br />

Keep the<br />

shadows<br />

angular with straight<br />

edges to match the<br />

gerbil’s new body<br />

shape. To create a<br />

straight line, hold<br />

down Shift while<br />

left-clicking at the<br />

start and then the end<br />

point of your line.<br />

Some shading<br />

16<br />

Reduce the brush Opacity to 30% and apply some faint shading underneath parts of<br />

the gerbil that would project and cast a shadow, for example, beneath his arms and<br />

chin. Keep these shadows subtle, and again apply them with straight edges to match the form<br />

of the gerbil.<br />

Finishing touches<br />

17<br />

Check your image over and make any<br />

final tweaks or edits with the Liquify<br />

filter. Finally, give your image a boost by<br />

adding a Brightness/Contrast adjustment<br />

layer at the top of the layer stack. Set the<br />

Brightness to +7 and Contrast to +3.<br />

55


How I made Amniotic<br />

Essentials<br />

Time taken<br />

48 hours<br />

The artist<br />

Christian Orrillo<br />

“I’m Christian<br />

Orrillo, better<br />

known as<br />

Krizpi, and I’m<br />

a self-taught,<br />

contemporary Peruvian<br />

artist. My work expresses<br />

many personal concepts<br />

related www.thepixelprositess.com<br />

with fantasy<br />

world, @thepixelprosites full of beautiful<br />

characters and dreamlike<br />

scenes. Surrealism and<br />

classical beauty are constant<br />

elements in my work,<br />

embellished by an iridescent<br />

colour palette and influenced<br />

by the aesthetic of anime,<br />

manga art and pop culture.<br />

You can find more of my work<br />

at www.behance.net/krizpi.”<br />

Amniotic<br />

How Christian Orrillo created a beautifully iridescent<br />

self-portrait from a <strong>Photoshop</strong> brush sketch<br />

Christian Orrillo is an artist who knows a lot about intensity,<br />

whether he’s creating something incredibly detailed or colourful.<br />

His brightly hued portraits have racked up over 25,000 views on<br />

Behance, but his digital art journey had humble beginnings. “<strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

is and has been for a long time my first digital creative tool,” he says. “I<br />

remember the first time I used it in 2002, when I drew and painted my<br />

own characters using the Brush tool and a mouse.”<br />

Over the years, he’s developed more than just his trademark<br />

iridescent style with the program. “I intuitively learned to use my<br />

favourite tools such as the Brush, Liquify, Smudge. Without these tools<br />

I cannot imagine creating what I currently make.” It’s clear that such a<br />

unique style takes time to evolve, and Christian’s mastery of the more<br />

digital art-focused tools in <strong>Photoshop</strong> is thanks to time and practice.<br />

With a great eye for colour and detail, his work looks steeped in<br />

traditional art influences, but Christian says he loves working in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong>. “I really enjoy drawing and painting a lot in <strong>Photoshop</strong>,<br />

experimenting with different brushes and textures. I also like to use<br />

photo-editing tools to give a realistic touch to my art.”<br />

Making a sketch<br />

01<br />

I made a rough sketch of what I had<br />

on my mind; in this case, a close-up<br />

of my face to which I wanted to incorporate a<br />

kind of circular shape as a space helmet. I<br />

usually use a brush with a graphite pencil<br />

texture to sketch and draw on white canvas.<br />

Defining shape<br />

02<br />

Once I have defined the basic<br />

composition, I add strokes of colour<br />

and experiment with textures. Here, I played<br />

with the contrast between pink and blue and<br />

added volume to the character, painting soft<br />

shadows and some delicate highlights.<br />

Finishing the piece<br />

03<br />

I then started to focus on details,<br />

such as thin strands of hair, little<br />

sparks around the face, highlights on the<br />

eyes, texture on the lips and the bubble over<br />

the head. This required extra work to paint all<br />

the iridescent colours and reflections.<br />

56


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Ideal for eager newcomers and seasoned pros alike, <strong>Photoshop</strong>® Tips, Tricks &<br />

Fixes is an essential companion for anyone who wants to get the most out of<br />

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58<br />

Advanced 3D modelling in <strong>Photoshop</strong>


Share your illustrations Tweet us @pshopcreative<br />

59


Advanced 3D modelling in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Time taken<br />

4 hours<br />

Expert<br />

Daniel<br />

Sinoca<br />

“I love creating 3D objects<br />

and combining them with<br />

ordinary photos to create<br />

beautiful compositions. The<br />

3D tools enable me to create<br />

simple and sometimes<br />

complex objects.<br />

“I got involved in the digital<br />

world more than 15 years<br />

ago and have been working<br />

as a freelance artist ever<br />

since, creating all kinds of<br />

multimedia projects.”<br />

3D<br />

modelling in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Learn the essential skills to transforming 2D textures into 3D<br />

objects and create a fantastic cityscape<br />

Are you ready to jump into the 3D world?<br />

The <strong>Photoshop</strong> 3D tools are a great place to<br />

start. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to add<br />

another dimension to flat images using the<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> 3D commands. You’ll learn how to work<br />

within the dedicated 3D environment, apply<br />

textures, create 3D objects, modify the lighting and<br />

render the final composition.<br />

To work in the 3D environment in <strong>Photoshop</strong>,<br />

you will need to juggle three different panels<br />

simultaneously. The first is the Layers panel; here<br />

you will place the regular images, create 3D layers<br />

and merge the 3D models. The second is the 3D<br />

panel. It shows the elements related to the 3D<br />

objects; 3D layers, Material layers, Light, and<br />

Camera/view. Finally, the third is the Properties<br />

panel. After you select the elements in the 3D<br />

panel, the Properties panel lets you tweak the<br />

settings. For example, you can deform the object,<br />

add material, define the light intensity and more.<br />

Pay close attention to each step, because you’ll<br />

have to jump back and forth to each panel. Check<br />

the Expert tip for extra advice on how to use the<br />

camera/view and the on-screen controls.<br />

Prepare your document<br />

01<br />

Start off by creating a new canvas, measuring around 1800x1200<br />

pixels. Now grab the Gradient tool (G) and apply a bluish radial<br />

gradient over the canvas. Switch to the 3D workspace for access to all 3D<br />

panels, by going to Windows>Workspace>3D.<br />

Create a 3D object<br />

02<br />

Place ‘fo_map.png’ and press Return/Enter. Now<br />

transform it into a 3D object. In the 3D panel, check 3D<br />

Extrusion and click Create. In the Properties panel, set the<br />

Extrusion Depth to 150 pixels, then click on Coordinates and set<br />

the X Rotation Angle to 90° and click Move to Ground.<br />

60


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Expert edit<br />

3D type effect<br />

Adjust the map material<br />

03<br />

Now it’s time to tweak the materials. In the 3D panel, click ‘fo_map Front Inflation<br />

Material’. Next, in the Properties panel, set the Reflection to 30% and Refraction to<br />

1.100; keep the other settings as they are.<br />

The Type Tool<br />

01<br />

You can easily transform any text<br />

into a 3D object. Grab the Type Tool<br />

(T), choose a bold font, define the colour<br />

and then type your text.<br />

Apply a new material<br />

04<br />

In the 3D panel, select the ‘fo_map_<br />

Extrusion Material’. In the Properties<br />

panel, click on the Diffuse menu and then<br />

click Replace Texture. Choose ‘fo_texture_<br />

map.png’ and click Open. Time to edit the<br />

texture. Click on the Diffuse menu and choose<br />

Edit UV Properties. Set the Scale U/X to 4.5%<br />

and click OK.<br />

Create a 3D building<br />

05<br />

In the Layers panel, place ‘fo_bldg1_<br />

front.png’ and press Return/Enter.<br />

Now create a 3D object. In the 3D panel, click<br />

3D Extrusion and click Create. In Properties,<br />

keep the Extrusion Depth as it is.<br />

3D extrusion<br />

02<br />

Now create a 3D layer. Right-click<br />

on the text layer and choose ‘New<br />

3D Extrusion from Selected Layer’. In the<br />

Properties panel, adjust the Extrusion<br />

Depth to suit.<br />

Bevelled edges<br />

03<br />

In the Properties panel, click on<br />

the Cap button. Set the Bevel<br />

Width at 25, keep the Angle at 45° and<br />

change the contour to Cone.<br />

Decal technique<br />

06<br />

In the Secondary View, click Select/<br />

View Camera and choose Right, then<br />

swap Main and Right views. Now, in the<br />

Layers panel, place ‘fo_bldg1_right_view.png’.<br />

Move over the building and click Return/Enter.<br />

To apply the new material using the decal<br />

technique, simply go to Layer>Merge Down<br />

(Cmd/Ctrl+E).<br />

Edit texture<br />

07<br />

Place the material on the other side<br />

of the building. In the 3D panel, click<br />

‘fo_bldg1_front_Extrusion_Material’. In<br />

Properties, open the Diffuse menu and<br />

choose Edit Texture. In Layers, duplicate the<br />

texture and flip horizontally, placing on the<br />

right. Fill the area between the textures with<br />

any colour and save the image.<br />

Merge 3D<br />

04<br />

In the Layers panel, hold down the<br />

Shift key and select the text layer<br />

and the map layer, then go to 3D>Merge 3D<br />

Layers. With the layers merged together,<br />

place on top of the building.<br />

61


Advanced 3D modelling in <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

Expert tip<br />

On-screen<br />

controls<br />

To access on-screen controls,<br />

go to Edit>Preferences><br />

Performance and check Use<br />

Graphic Processor. When in<br />

the 3D environment, use the<br />

Move Tool (V) to select and<br />

move the axis or the camera<br />

controllers. The 3D axis<br />

enables you to move, rotate<br />

and scale the 3D object using<br />

X, Y and Z coordinates. Hover<br />

the cursor over the axis, click<br />

and drag to control the object.<br />

Use the Secondary Camera/<br />

View to see different angles so<br />

you know precisely where the<br />

objects are in the 3D space.<br />

Create a new object<br />

08<br />

First, swap to the Main view. In the<br />

Layers panel, place ‘fo_bldg1_frame.<br />

png’. Drag over the image and hit Return/<br />

Enter. Transform in a 3D layer. In the 3D panel,<br />

click 3D Extrusion and click Create.<br />

Add material<br />

09<br />

Let’s use a solid colour to fill the extrusion. In<br />

the 3D panel, click ‘fo_bldg1_frame Extrusion<br />

Material’. Click on the Diffuse colour. In the Color Picker<br />

window, choose the white colour and click OK.<br />

Merge 3D layers<br />

10<br />

To merge the 3D layers, go to the Layers panel, hold<br />

down the Shift key on your keyboard and select ‘fo_<br />

bldg1_frame’ and ‘fo_bldg1_front’. With both layers selected, go<br />

to 3D>Merge 3D Layers.<br />

Move 3D objects<br />

11<br />

In the Secondary view, select Top view and swap with the Main view.<br />

In the 3D panel, select ‘fo_bdlg1_frame’ and use the on-screen<br />

controls to move the image. Click on the blue arrow (Move on Z Axis) and<br />

drag down to push the frame out of the building.<br />

Now merge the objects<br />

12<br />

First, swap to the Main view. With the<br />

building in the right position, it is now<br />

possible to place it on the map. In the Layers<br />

panel, select the 3D building and the 3D map<br />

layers, then go to 3D>Merge 3D Layers.<br />

Scale 3D objects<br />

13<br />

First, swap to the Top view. In the 3D<br />

panel, hold Shift and select ‘fo_bldg1_<br />

front’ and ‘fo_bldg1_frame’. Place the cursor<br />

on the centre of the on-screen controls until<br />

the Scale Uniformly command appears. Hold<br />

down the mouse button and drag down to<br />

scale the object.<br />

Put in place<br />

14<br />

Keep both objects selected and use<br />

the on-screen controls to move and<br />

rotate the objects over the map. Now swap<br />

to the Front view and again, use the onscreen<br />

controls to drag the 3D building down<br />

to the ground.<br />

62


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Build the city<br />

15<br />

Repeat the techniques you’ve just<br />

learned and start creating more<br />

buildings. Remember to create the buildings<br />

with all the details and extra objects before<br />

merging with the 3D map. Swap the views<br />

and use the on-screen controls to adjust the<br />

position of each building.<br />

Adjust the light source<br />

16<br />

Use the three scene-moving controls at the bottom left of the 3D workspace to move<br />

the camera to adjust the position of the entire scene. Now, click on Infinite Light and<br />

adjust the light source angle. Render the 3D object by going to 3D>Render 3D Layer.<br />

Place 2D images<br />

17<br />

Now, bring in some regular images and place around the<br />

scene. In the Layers panel, place ‘pix_headphone.jpg’.<br />

Grab the Pen tool and select and mask the image. Resize it and<br />

place on top of the building.<br />

Create shadows<br />

18<br />

Duplicate the image and apply a layer mask. Open the Hue/<br />

Saturation command (Cmd/Ctrl+U) and set the Lightness to -100.<br />

Reduce the layer’s Opacity to make the shadow less intense, adjusting the<br />

perspective using the Free Transform tool (Cmd/Ctrl+T) and mask it<br />

around the buildings. Add more images and create the shadows.<br />

Add some trees<br />

19<br />

Create a new layer.<br />

Go to<br />

Filter>Render>Tree.<br />

Choose a tree type and<br />

tweak the settings. Open<br />

the Advanced tab and set<br />

the Camera Tilt to 24.<br />

Create the shadow as you<br />

did in Step 18. Link the<br />

layers. Duplicate, placing<br />

the trees all over the map.<br />

Custom brushes<br />

20<br />

Go to Edit>Presets>Preset Manager.<br />

Click Load, locate ‘fo_clouds<strong>154</strong>.abr’<br />

and then click Load. Create a new layer on<br />

top of the layer stack. Grab the Brush Tool (B)<br />

and paint a few clouds over the city.<br />

63


64<br />

Advanced Create an awesome space scene


Share your illustrations Tweet us @pshopcreative<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Essentials<br />

Time taken<br />

2 hours<br />

Expert<br />

Daniel<br />

Sinoca<br />

“Sometimes I think<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> is truly out of this<br />

world – I can create planets,<br />

galaxies, stars and add a<br />

variety of special efects<br />

to a sketch using only the<br />

amazing tools, ilters, and<br />

features that are bundled in<br />

the sotware. I have always<br />

loved science-iction stories<br />

– the idea of exploring<br />

new planets and being an<br />

astronaut were part of my<br />

childhood dreams. Well,<br />

thanks to <strong>Photoshop</strong>, now<br />

I can inally satisfy those<br />

dreams and create my own<br />

space compositions.<br />

“I started to get involved in<br />

the digital world more than<br />

15 years ago and have been<br />

working as a freelance artist<br />

ever since, creating all kinds<br />

of multimedia projects and<br />

tutorial guides.”<br />

Create an<br />

awesome<br />

space scene<br />

Explore new ways to use filters, layer styles and masks to create<br />

an out-of-this-world composition<br />

Let’s create an awesome space composition<br />

from a sketch using some of the most<br />

impressive features in <strong>Photoshop</strong>: filters, layer<br />

styles and masks. In this tutorial, you’ll explore<br />

each one of these powerful commands and<br />

discover how to apply them for realistic effects. To<br />

begin, you’ll create stars using the Noise filter and<br />

then you’ll learn a clever way to add some twinkles<br />

using the Motion Blur filter. Next, you’ll use the<br />

Cloud filter, blending modes and brushes to create<br />

a colourful nebula. Finally, you will place the images<br />

and use the layer styles to add glows and apply<br />

other techniques to complete the composition and<br />

make it work as a whole.<br />

You can try out different settings for the styles,<br />

adjustments and blend modes, but it’s important to<br />

use vivid colours for the nebula to make the image<br />

stand out. If you are using <strong>Photoshop</strong> Elements,<br />

don’t forget to check the side stepper for more<br />

information on the editing process. There are so<br />

many good tips and tricks in this tutorial that at the<br />

end, you will have new skills to start using in your<br />

own projects. Download the stock images from<br />

FileSilo now, and start learning.<br />

Set the stage<br />

01<br />

To begin, create a new document. Go to File>New. Name your<br />

project Astronaut, set the Width to 230mm, Height to 310mm,<br />

Resolution to 300ppi, change the Background Contents to Black and then<br />

click OK. Double-click on the Background layer thumbnail and name the<br />

layer Stars.<br />

Create the stars<br />

02<br />

Go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise. Set Amount to 50%,<br />

Distribution: Gaussian, check the Monochromatic box<br />

and click OK. Now go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Set Radius to<br />

3px and click OK. Use the Levels (Cmd/Ctrl+L) to create the stars.<br />

Set the Inputs to 40, 0.05, 80.<br />

65


Advanced Create an awesome space scene<br />

Create twinkles<br />

03<br />

Duplicate the layer (Cmd/Ctrl+J). Now go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur. Set<br />

Angle to 0°, Distance: 30px and click OK. Change the blend to Screen.<br />

Duplicate the original layer again and apply the Motion Blur filter. Set the Angle to 90°,<br />

keep the same Distance and change the blend mode to Screen.<br />

Merge layers<br />

04<br />

Click on the Stars copy layer to make it active.<br />

Press Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+E to create a<br />

merged copy of the layers. Now, hit Cmd/Ctrl+T and in<br />

Options, set the Horizontal/Vertical Scales to 150%, go<br />

to Edit>Transform>Flip Vertical, then press Return/<br />

Enter. Change the blend mode to Screen.<br />

Cloud filter<br />

05<br />

Create a new layer (Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+N) and name it<br />

Cloud. Grab the Rectangular Marquee Tool (M). Hold Shift<br />

and create a small selection. Press D to set the default<br />

Foreground/Background colours and then go to<br />

Filter>Render>Clouds. Press Cmd/Ctrl+T and scale up to fit on the<br />

canvas. Change the blend mode to Color Dodge.<br />

The nebula<br />

06<br />

Create a new layer (Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+N) and name it Nebula. Drag<br />

the layer, placing under the Cloud layer. Grab the Brush Tool (B).<br />

Choose a large soft-tip brush and set the brush’s Opacity to around 30%.<br />

Choose a vivid blue colour and start painting the nebula (use different<br />

colours to enhance the nebula).<br />

Lens Flare<br />

effect<br />

07<br />

Create a new<br />

layer on top of<br />

the layer stack and<br />

name it Lens Flare. Fill<br />

it with black and then<br />

go to Filter>Render><br />

Lens Flare. Set the<br />

Brightness to 100% and<br />

Lens Type: 105mm<br />

Prime. Change the<br />

blend mode to Screen.<br />

Adjust the Levels (Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+L) and resize it<br />

(Cmd/Ctrl+T).<br />

66


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Expert edit<br />

Camera RAW in Elements<br />

Place the astronaut<br />

08<br />

First, duplicate the Lens Flare layer (Cmd/Ctrl+J). Resize the image again and move to<br />

a different place. Now go to File>Place Embedded ‘Astronaut.jpg’. Grab the Pen Tool (or<br />

your favourite selection tool) and draw a path around the image. In Options, click Selection and<br />

then create a layer mask (go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection).<br />

Save image<br />

01<br />

In <strong>Photoshop</strong> Elements, finish<br />

step 18 and save the image. Go to<br />

File>Save as. Name your image and Save<br />

as type: JPEG, then click Save.<br />

Layer styles<br />

09<br />

Go to<br />

Layer>Layer<br />

Style>Inner Glow. Set<br />

the colour of the glow<br />

to white. Reduce the<br />

Opacity to 50% and<br />

Size to 70px. Now,<br />

click Outer Glow and<br />

set the Opacity to<br />

60%, pick blue as the<br />

colour and Size: 35px,<br />

then click OK.<br />

Open the file<br />

02<br />

Open Camera RAW in Elements;<br />

go to File>Open in Camera RAW or<br />

click Opt/Alt+Cmd/Ctrl+O. Locate the JPEG<br />

image you saved and click Open.<br />

Tweak the settings<br />

03<br />

Keep the Exposure at 0, set the<br />

Contrast to 10, Highlights to 0,<br />

Shadows to 20, Whites to 20, Blacks to 0,<br />

Clarity to 20, Vibrance to 30, Saturation to<br />

0 and click Open Image.<br />

Make adjustments<br />

10<br />

Go to Layer>New Adjustment<br />

Layer>Photo Filter. Click Color and<br />

choose #5fc2f1. Set Density to 60%, check<br />

Preserve Luminosity and clip the layers.<br />

(Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+G). Now, add a Levels<br />

adjustment. Go to Layer>New Adjustment<br />

Layer>Levels. Set the Inputs to 0, 0.70, 200<br />

and clip the layers (Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+G).<br />

Add more adjustments<br />

11<br />

Go to Layer>New Adjustment<br />

Layer>Photo Filter. Click Color and<br />

choose #f65a08. Set Density to 100%, check<br />

Preserve Luminosity and clip the layers. Grab<br />

a soft-tip brush (B). Click on the layer’s mask<br />

and hide the areas around the image.<br />

Vignette effect<br />

04<br />

Go to Filter>Correct Camera<br />

Distortion. Set the Vignette<br />

Amount to -100 and Midpoint to +70 and<br />

then click OK. Save your image by pressing<br />

Cmd/Ctrl+S.<br />

67


Advanced Create an awesome space scene<br />

Blend modes<br />

12<br />

Let’s make the astronaut suit a bit warmer, in preparation for the<br />

galaxy. Duplicate the Photo Filter layer and mask you’ve just created.<br />

Clip the layers and then double-click on the layer’s thumbnail to open the<br />

Properties panel. Choose Filter: Warming Filter (85), Density: 100%. Change<br />

the blending mode to Color Dodge.<br />

Place the galaxy<br />

13<br />

Go to File>Place Embedded ‘Galaxy.jpg’. In Options, set the<br />

Horizontal/Vertical scale to 60% and rotate the image<br />

about -15°, then press Return/Enter. Create a layer mask. Go to<br />

Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. Grab a large soft-tip brush (B)<br />

and mask the sky.<br />

Create the Sun<br />

14<br />

Go to File>Place<br />

Embedded<br />

‘Planet1.jpg’. Grab the<br />

Elliptical Marquee Tool<br />

(M). Select and mask the<br />

image. Go to Layer>Layer<br />

Style>Inner Glow. Choose<br />

a light orange colour and<br />

tweak the Opacity, Angle,<br />

Distance and Size. Now,<br />

click Outer Glow, choose<br />

a light orange and tweak<br />

the settings again, then<br />

click OK.<br />

Make adjustments<br />

15<br />

Press Cmd/Ctrl+T and scale down the image, placing it at<br />

the centre of the galaxy. Grab a soft-tip brush (B) and<br />

paint over the mask to partially hide the planet behind the clouds.<br />

Click on the Planet layer thumbnail, then open the Levels (Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+L). Adjust the Inputs to 60, 0.90, 180.<br />

Add the Earth<br />

16<br />

Place ‘Earth.jpg’. Apply the Inner/Outer Glow styles as you did in<br />

step 14. Create a new layer and name it Shadows/Highlights.<br />

Change the blend to Overlay and clip the layers (Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+G). Grab<br />

a soft-tip brush (B) and using a dark blue and light orange, paint the<br />

shadows and highlights around the Earth.<br />

68


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Place more<br />

planets<br />

17<br />

Press Cmd/Ctrl+T<br />

and resize the<br />

Earth image. Now, add<br />

more planets and repeat<br />

steps 14 and 16 to add the<br />

layer styles and the<br />

shadows/highlights.<br />

Reduce the planets’ size<br />

and distribute around the<br />

image. You can try<br />

experimenting with<br />

different blend modes for<br />

the shadows/highlights<br />

or reduce the opacity.<br />

Expert tip<br />

Scaling layer<br />

styles<br />

When using Free Transform<br />

(Cmd/Ctrl+T) to resize a layer<br />

that has a layer style applied<br />

to it, <strong>Photoshop</strong> will not scale<br />

the style, so you have to<br />

tweak the settings again. To<br />

solve this problem, rasterize<br />

the layer style by going to<br />

Layer>Rasterize>Layer<br />

Style and then use the Free<br />

Transform Tool. After placing<br />

the planets and adding the<br />

shadow and highlights layer,<br />

remember to link the layers<br />

before you start scaling down<br />

the images.<br />

Create the visor’s reflection<br />

18<br />

Create a snapshot; press Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+E.<br />

Create a selection around the helmet visor, then create a<br />

layer mask. Unlink the mask (click the link icon between the<br />

thumbnail and the mask). Resize the image, placing the sun<br />

inside the mask. Change the blending mode to Lighten.<br />

Smart Object<br />

19<br />

Create a new snapshot, press Shift+Cmd/Ctrl+Opt/Alt+E<br />

and name it Final. Now, transform the image into a<br />

Smart Object. Go to Layer>Smart Objects>Convert to Smart<br />

Object. Let’s make some adjustments to enhance the colours<br />

using the Camera RAW filter.<br />

Camera RAW<br />

filter<br />

20<br />

Go to<br />

Filter>Camera<br />

RAW filter. Keep the<br />

Exposure at 0, set the<br />

Contrast to 10, Highlights:<br />

0, Shadows: 20, Whites:<br />

20, Blacks: 0, Clarity: 20,<br />

Vibrance: 30 and<br />

Saturation: 0. Open the<br />

Lens Correction panel,<br />

set the Vignetting to -60<br />

and then click OK.<br />

69


Project focus Blending digital and traditional artwork<br />

Blending digital and<br />

traditional artwork<br />

Typhaine Le Gallo had always used <strong>Photoshop</strong> just for embellishing hand-drawn work,<br />

until she worked on a project that made <strong>Photoshop</strong> the focus<br />

About the artist<br />

Typhaine Le Gallo<br />

typhainelegallo.<br />

com/<br />

Typhaine Le Gallo is originally<br />

from France but is currently<br />

living in Montreal, Canada. She<br />

studied mathematics before<br />

studying illustration with wellknown<br />

Canadian illustrators<br />

Gerard Dubois, Steve Adams and<br />

Pol Turgeon. She has had work<br />

published by Carte Blanche and<br />

Chinese publishers, along with<br />

having work shown at exhibitions.<br />

Name of the project<br />

Little Red Boubou<br />

Finding one’s style in <strong>Photoshop</strong> is<br />

something that every digital artist<br />

does, but learning to develop and<br />

evolve your style is something altogether<br />

more challenging.<br />

With her Little Red Boubou project, a<br />

children’s book based on the fairy tale of Red<br />

Riding Hood, Typhaine Le Gallo took her<br />

original creative process and then adapted it<br />

for the needs of the project. The subsequent<br />

illustrations have been featured in Behance’s<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> and Illustration galleries as a result,<br />

proving that often the very best work comes<br />

from innovation.<br />

We caught up with Typhaine to ask about<br />

her creative process, her influences, and how<br />

she made these beautiful illustrations.<br />

Have you always been interested<br />

in art, Typhaine?<br />

I initially studied mathematics and computer<br />

programming; I worked for around 10 years as<br />

a graphic programmer in the video game<br />

industry. But I have always enjoyed drawing<br />

and four years ago I decided to go back to<br />

university to take illustration classes and study<br />

for a graphic design baccalaureate. This is<br />

where I discovered <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

As a graphic programmer, was<br />

it easy to get to grips with<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> when you first used it?<br />

Yes, I found it to be mathematics applied on<br />

pixels. The layers, masks and post-effects<br />

work are very intuitive for me as I developed<br />

similar features in video games. I chose to<br />

take a professional photography class to learn<br />

how to edit pictures, as to start with I simply<br />

wanted to create illustrations with traditional<br />

materials and enhance them in <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

Who would you say are your<br />

biggest artistic influences?<br />

My biggest artistic influence is Rebecca<br />

Dautremer, a wonderful French children’s<br />

book illustrator. I think she uses <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

almost exactly for the same steps than my<br />

own process: to improve a sketch, to test<br />

colours before applying traditional mediums,<br />

and to enhance the final scanned picture. A<br />

few years ago I discovered another big<br />

influence: the work of Victo Ngai, an editorial<br />

illustrator. For the first time I discovered a<br />

process almost entirely done in <strong>Photoshop</strong>,<br />

which was truly resonating with me, and it<br />

was the one I decided to use for the Little Red<br />

Boubou project.<br />

So was the Little Red Boubou<br />

project completed entirely in the<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> software?<br />

Well, for Little Red Boubou I wanted to push<br />

my use of <strong>Photoshop</strong>, but still use my usual<br />

watercolour pencil textures. To do so, I drew<br />

lines with black ink on paper, scanned the<br />

drawings and a lot of textures created with<br />

traditional mediums, and assembled the<br />

whole thing in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. I always start with a<br />

sketch on paper, then I move and distort the<br />

objects and characters a lot in <strong>Photoshop</strong> until<br />

I’m happy with the composition. I usually<br />

70


DEVELOPING<br />

TECHNIQUE<br />

For the skies,<br />

I enlarged my<br />

texture as<br />

usual but I also<br />

stretched it<br />

horizontally to get<br />

a different visual.<br />

COLOURED<br />

LINES<br />

With this<br />

technique it<br />

is easy to get<br />

punchy results<br />

with coloured<br />

lines, for example<br />

the red lines on<br />

the features of the<br />

leopard’s head.<br />

TEXTURES<br />

In all my<br />

illustrations I<br />

used scanned<br />

watercolour<br />

pencil textures<br />

that I zoomed in<br />

to for textures<br />

with strong and<br />

large patterns.<br />

All images © Typhaine Le Galloa<br />

choose the colours by actually colouring my<br />

sketch in <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

What are your favourite tools to<br />

use in <strong>Photoshop</strong>?<br />

Mainly the tools I use are the Magic Wand<br />

Tool in conjunction with the Refine Edge<br />

option. I also love using certain adjustment<br />

layers, specifically Selective Color, Hue/<br />

Saturation and Brightness/Contrast. For the<br />

Little Red Boubou project, I created the<br />

illustrations by selecting areas between the<br />

black lines and using masks to apply my<br />

scanned textures to the selected areas and to<br />

the lines. Then for every area, I modified the<br />

colour of the applied texture to get the exact<br />

colour that I had in mind. Finally I added<br />

shadows and highlights by darkening or<br />

lightening the colours of my lines and textures<br />

on specific areas.<br />

This creative process is slightly<br />

different to your usual, then.<br />

What made you head in a new<br />

direction for this project?<br />

The style I used for the Little Red Boubou<br />

project differs a little bit from my usual<br />

illustrations, even if they are still similar. There<br />

are two reasons for that: first I had a very<br />

short amount of time to finish the illustrations<br />

for this book, secondly as I wanted heavily<br />

contrasted black-and-white drawings to be<br />

able to select the areas easily, I used black ink<br />

and continuous lines. As a result my lines are<br />

a little bit stronger and the look is more ‘naive’<br />

and colourful than usual, which was not a<br />

problem for me as I thought it was a good<br />

match to represent an African adaptation of<br />

Little Red Riding Hood.<br />

Has this project changed the way<br />

you use <strong>Photoshop</strong>?<br />

Nothing is better than to work on a whole<br />

project of at least 10 illustrations by applying<br />

the same <strong>Photoshop</strong> recipe on all the<br />

illustrations. This recipe should be compatible<br />

with what you like to do with traditional<br />

mediums: for example, for me it was essential<br />

to keep the textures of watercolour pencils. I<br />

learnt a lot during the Little Red Boubou project.<br />

I only really mastered the software after<br />

spending a lot of time on these 32 pages of<br />

illustrations in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. Before that I was<br />

mainly trying to edit my pictures to fix the loss<br />

of colours and contrast due to the scan. Since<br />

then I am still using traditional techniques, but<br />

now <strong>Photoshop</strong> is an essential part of my<br />

process to get the final atmosphere and<br />

palette of colours that I have in mind.<br />

71


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Elements<br />

Elements<br />

18 pages of practical guides<br />

Essential<br />

techniques<br />

Follow the<br />

step-by-step<br />

tutorials<br />

Create more in Elements…<br />

Dodge and Burn your photos..............................74<br />

Make a creative clock face..................................76<br />

How to age female portraits.............................. 80<br />

Create a surreal moon composition........... 82<br />

Q&A: Common problems in Elements....... 90<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Digital art…<br />

learn how to<br />

MASTER SELECTIONS TO<br />

ILLUSTRATE A SCENE<br />

Create this stunning digital artwork without a graphics tablet p86


elements<br />

What<br />

does it mean?<br />

Screen anD Multiply – These are<br />

two of the most used blend modes.<br />

The Screen mode will reflect pixels<br />

to create something lighter, while<br />

Multiply will do the opposite and<br />

literally multiply the pixels of two<br />

layers together. This makes<br />

them both great for working<br />

with light and shade.<br />

ADJUST YOUR IMAGE<br />

Always use the Levels,<br />

Brightness/Contrast and<br />

Gradient Map adjustments<br />

to harmonise the tone and<br />

colour of your images.<br />

74<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Tool focus…<br />

Dodge and burn<br />

your photos<br />

Work non-destructively with tone using these simple tools<br />

There are so many techniques for making your images pop.<br />

Different photo editors use different skills to try and get their images<br />

sharp, contrasted and bright, but two of the most popular tools for<br />

finishing off your photos are Dodge and Burn.<br />

Polar opposites but used in conjunction with one another, Dodge<br />

and Burn are two of the oldest features, but are still popular for their<br />

command of tone and brightness. They can be applied to any image<br />

to improve the light and shade in your photos. They’re extremely<br />

similar to brushes: think of them as being brushes that apply blend<br />

modes to your work rather than colour. Namely, Color Burn in the<br />

case of Burn, and Screen in the case of Dodge.<br />

Start<br />

image<br />

While you can apply the Dodge and Burn tools to any image, the<br />

absolute best way to apply them is to do so non-destructively. By<br />

making your edits on a new layer, you can use them almost like an<br />

adjustment layer, enabling yourself to edit them again if needed,<br />

reduce the opacity, or delete them completely. Editing nondestructively<br />

is the most organised way to work, for these reasons,<br />

but also so that you can view each of your edits as layers, and stay<br />

on top of your workflow.<br />

Dodge and Burn might not be fancy new tools added in the latest<br />

few versions of Elements, but they’re solid, reliable and capable of<br />

improving your photos to various degrees.


elements<br />

Retouch the tone Brush on light and shade in your pictures<br />

Shortcut<br />

Hit the Eye icon in<br />

the Layers panel<br />

to hide a layer<br />

Create a grey layer<br />

01<br />

Open your image and create a new layer. On this layer, select<br />

the colour #808080 and ill, before setting to Overlay. This is<br />

neutral grey: anything that is this colour will become invisible, while<br />

darker and lighter strokes will lighten and darken the photo.<br />

Start burning<br />

02<br />

Select the Burn Tool (O). This is used to darken the image;<br />

lightly brush over your picture, preferably at a low Opacity<br />

setting, and make sure that you enhance the shadows all over, while<br />

adding a few more shaded areas where necessary.<br />

Dodge the image<br />

03<br />

The Dodge Tool (O) is in the bottom bar along with Burn, and<br />

does the opposite of its counterpart. Use it to subtly touch<br />

over the highlights in your image to balance out the shadows.<br />

Adjust the Brightness/Contrast<br />

04<br />

Go to the Fill Layer icon, situated next to the Mask icon in the<br />

Layers panel. Select Brightness/Contrast, and adjust both<br />

sliders to improve the overall exposure and tone of the image.<br />

Screen and Multiply Apply light and dark, without the added saturation<br />

Duplicate the layers<br />

Dodge and Burn are great tools for improving<br />

the tone of your pictures, but they do add a touch<br />

of saturation. To avoid this, you can simply use<br />

Screen and Multiply layers. Start by duplicating<br />

your background layer twice (Cmd/Ctrl+J); one of<br />

which we want to set to the Multiply blend mode,<br />

the other to Screen.<br />

Brush in shade<br />

Select a small, soft, white, low-opacity brush.<br />

Brush over the shadows in your image to<br />

apply extra shade; this is particularly great for<br />

contouring subjects or adding drama to the<br />

image. You can reduce the layer opacity if you<br />

want to lessen the effect of the Multiply layer.<br />

Mask in the Screen<br />

Once you’ve masked the Multiply layer, do the<br />

same with the Screen layer. You may wish to<br />

brush close to the lines brushed in the Multiply<br />

layer to accentuate the contrast further. Feel free<br />

to reduce the Opacity setting of this layer to bring<br />

it more in line with the Multiply strokes.<br />

75


Elements<br />

Reference<br />

Start image<br />

76<br />

<strong>Creative</strong> project…<br />

Make a creative<br />

clock face<br />

Invest time in designing a clock, with layers, masks and edits<br />

If you’re looking for an original way to display your artwork on a<br />

wall, there aren’t many more novel ways than to create a clock<br />

face. It’s something you’re bound to look at a few times a day, and<br />

its only obstructions are a couple of hands across its face.<br />

While creating a clock might be a creative idea you’d never even<br />

considered though, it’s as much about the maths of measuring out<br />

the degrees of a circle as it is about creating something bright and<br />

colourful in Elements. One aspect that will really define your clock is<br />

where you decide to place the numerals, and it’s important to get<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

that right: but luckily Elements has all the tools necessary for<br />

creating with precision.<br />

Ultimately though, aside from the numerals and markers on the<br />

clock for the 60 minutes, the design is totally up to you. We’ve taken<br />

inspiration from a famous clock in Prague, and updated it with a<br />

modern twist of a geometric font and beach photo; but you can<br />

create whatever you like. You may want to take the idea of the circle<br />

and run with that, or you might want to just create any kind of<br />

design and add the numbers on after.


StaGE 1<br />

Creating the<br />

template<br />

Build your template before<br />

you add images to it<br />

What<br />

does it mean?<br />

ROTATING – While we usually drag<br />

the corner handles of a selection to<br />

rotate it, you can also use the<br />

bottom bar of Elements to choose a<br />

degree to rotate by. If you’d like 12<br />

equally-spaced points, simply<br />

divide 360 – the number of<br />

degrees in a circle – by 12<br />

to work out how much<br />

to rotate by.<br />

Every big project has humble beginnings,<br />

and creating a clock face is no different.<br />

Before we dive into the creative bit, we’ve got to<br />

organise the template, and this relies on maths as<br />

much as it does design skills.<br />

All we need is a circle for the clock face, and some markers to<br />

show where the 12 hours should be. From there, we can create<br />

whatever kind of design we like: just remember to hide the template<br />

markers when you’re done.<br />

Create a new document<br />

01<br />

Start by opening Elements and going to File>New. Choose a<br />

square document, as the clock face is going to be round;<br />

3000 x 3000px should be enough, and choose a resolution of 300ppi<br />

so that the design is more detailed.<br />

Elements<br />

Shortcut<br />

Hit alt/Opt+Cmd/<br />

Ctrl+E to copy one<br />

layer onto the<br />

one below<br />

Set up the template<br />

02<br />

Create a #808080 circle that ills the entire document, and on<br />

a new layer, add a dot to the centre using the Brush Tool (B).<br />

Hit Cmd/Ctrl+’ to bring up the grid, because this can help with scale<br />

and precision.<br />

Finish the template<br />

03<br />

Make a thin, black line with the Marquee Tool (M) at the top of<br />

the clock on a new layer, duplicate (Cmd/Ctrl+J), Select All<br />

(Cmd/Ctrl+A) and Transform (Cmd/Ctrl+T). Look to the bottom panel of<br />

Elements; rotate by 30 degrees, and then repeat this until the clock<br />

has 12 points in place.<br />

USE NEW LAYERS<br />

Insert your centre spot and 12<br />

points onto new layers so that<br />

you can hide these layers later on<br />

when you finish your clock.<br />

NEUTRAL GREY<br />

By using neutral grey, anything<br />

you add to the clock face can<br />

be set to Overlay to blend in.<br />

TWELVE POINTS<br />

Rotate a point 30 degrees<br />

to create 12 points, but<br />

rotate 6 degrees to create<br />

60 points for each minute.<br />

USING TEMPLATES<br />

Keep this template and use<br />

it in future for creating more<br />

clocks if you wish to.<br />

77


Elements<br />

StaGE 2<br />

Get stuck into the<br />

clock design<br />

Add a background and then<br />

embellish it further<br />

Once you have your template, you’re ready<br />

to go ahead and get as creative as you like<br />

with your clock. Check the internet for<br />

inspiration, find a design or pattern you’d<br />

like to create, and then start using Elements<br />

to build up the clock face.<br />

For our clock example here, we chose to<br />

add a beach image, and the colours from<br />

the Prague Astronomical Clock, for a bright,<br />

exciting finish.<br />

add the numbers<br />

01<br />

Grab the Type Tool, and enter your<br />

numerals, 1 to 12, each on new<br />

layers: we’ve gone for Roman numerals but<br />

you can use what you like. Move each of the<br />

numerals to their space on the clock, and<br />

reduce the size of 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11<br />

for effect. We’ve supplied the font used.<br />

Create minute dots<br />

02<br />

Just as we created the markers for<br />

the 12 hours, we’re going to create<br />

dots for each of the 60 minutes on the clock<br />

face. Use the technique from step 3 in stage<br />

1 and rotate each dot 6 degrees.<br />

Bring in the image<br />

03<br />

We’ve supplied a beach image for you<br />

to drop into the project. Arrange it so<br />

that the middle of the photo aligns with the<br />

centre of the clock, resize if need be with the<br />

Transform Tool and then Alt/Opt-click to clip to<br />

the template.<br />

Inject some colour<br />

04<br />

Our clock is going to be inspired by<br />

the Astronomical Clock in Prague.<br />

Use the Elliptical Marquee Tool to create a<br />

circle on a new layer, and ill with colour:<br />

follow the reference image supplied, or use<br />

the ready-made one we created.<br />

Blend it in<br />

05<br />

Group your layers, duplicate twice,<br />

set one group to Soft Light, one to<br />

Multiply, 75% Opacity and one to Screen, 50%<br />

Opacity. Cmd/Ctrl-click the preview image on<br />

each layer and then Ctrl/right-click, choose<br />

Stroke (Outline), and add a 10px stroke of<br />

#e5c578 before erasing the excess (E).<br />

78<br />

Perfect the clock<br />

06<br />

With the clock now looking more<br />

complete, turn the text of each of the<br />

numerals white by selecting each of them<br />

and using the Type Tool. Then, go to<br />

Layer>Layer Style>Style Settings and add a<br />

Drop Shadow on each numeral with these<br />

settings; Size: 0, Distance: 20, Opacity: 100%.<br />

VARY THE<br />

COLOURS<br />

Alter the colours<br />

to customise<br />

your clock face<br />

and give it a<br />

unique style.


StaGE 3<br />

Finish the clock<br />

Adjust your work and turn it<br />

into a product<br />

With your clock very nearly complete,<br />

all that’s left to do is finish off the<br />

project with adjustments, and turn it<br />

into a real-life product for you to sell!<br />

There are loads of great sites online<br />

that can turn your artwork into<br />

products, but one of the best things<br />

about Redbubble is that it gives you a<br />

percentage of the profits whenever<br />

someone buys your design. Visit<br />

www.redbubble.com for more<br />

information and to set up an account.<br />

FRAME COLOUR<br />

Choose between black,<br />

white and bamboo<br />

frames for whatever<br />

looks best on your clock.<br />

Elements<br />

HAND COLOUR<br />

Choose between<br />

white, black, red<br />

or teal for the hand<br />

colour: we went<br />

with red to stand<br />

out against the blue.<br />

GET PAID<br />

Every time someone<br />

buys your design,<br />

you will receive a<br />

percentage of the<br />

sale money.<br />

Shortcut<br />

Hit ‘5’ to reduce a<br />

layer to 50%<br />

Opacity<br />

adjust the clock<br />

01<br />

Create a Levels adjustment and improve the colour and tone,<br />

before adding a black-to-white gradient. Choose Radial, and<br />

then set to Soft Light, 50% Opacity so it fades to the edge. Now add a<br />

black-to-white gradient map, set it to Soft Light and then reduce to<br />

30% Opacity.<br />

Reduce noise and sharpen<br />

02<br />

Merge everything into one layer by hitting Cmd/Ctrl+Alt/<br />

Opt+Shift+E and go to Filter>Noise>Reduce Noise. Move<br />

Strength to 10 and the other values to 0. Hit OK, merge everything into<br />

another layer, then go to Filter>Other>High Pass. Set to 5px and also<br />

set to Overlay to Sharpen.<br />

Save for web<br />

03<br />

Hide the background layer in your project. Hit Cmd/Ctrl+Alt/<br />

Opt+Shift+S and then choose PNG. Keep the image at high<br />

quality and save it to your computer, as we want our image to be as<br />

high resolution as possible to turn into a clock.<br />

Use Redbubble<br />

04<br />

Go to www.redbubble.com and sign up for a free account.<br />

Head to your proile and upload a new image. Choose your<br />

clock face, enable it as a clock, and then resize as necessary.<br />

79


Elements<br />

What<br />

does it mean?<br />

LAYER MASKS – These make it<br />

easier to control transparency when<br />

blending images together. Use a<br />

white brush to paint in areas around<br />

the forehead, eyes, cheeks, nose<br />

and chin. Blend in the wrinkles,<br />

veins, and blemishes. Avoid<br />

distinct traits of the original<br />

image like eyes, lips or<br />

nose shape.<br />

OLDER DETAILS<br />

Older hair is usually short<br />

and white or golden in colour.<br />

Wrinkles are found around eyes,<br />

cheeks, forehead, and chin.<br />

STUDY PHYSICAL TRAITS<br />

When making people look older,<br />

it helps to study the traits of older<br />

people in order to be realistic.<br />

80<br />

Photo edit…<br />

Learn how<br />

to age portraits<br />

Use the Camera RAW filter and layers for this creative effect<br />

Posters, commercials, and various advertisements today all seem<br />

to be selling some sort of age-defying product, feeding an eager<br />

public with tips and tricks on how to look younger than they<br />

actually are. The cosmetics industry alone makes billions from skin<br />

products that mask fine lines and obvious indications of age, while<br />

clothing lines keep releasing collections aimed at people who want<br />

to wear clothes that make them look young. Everyone seems to<br />

want to go back to the so-called happier times of their youth, but<br />

the truth is that age is not something to deny or shy away from – it<br />

Start<br />

images<br />

is something to be welcomed. After all, no wrinkle will ever dull your<br />

true shine, right?<br />

This tutorial will focus on quick and easy tips for how to make a<br />

portrait look older, just to prove that getting old doesn’t have to be a<br />

terrifying task. In fact, by using subtle blending with layer masks, you<br />

can age a photo realistically and gracefully. Are you curious to see<br />

how you’d look like in a few years? Go ahead and try it out – age<br />

your own photo at home and embrace the best years of your life<br />

that are yet to come!


Elements<br />

Camera RAW filter Slider adjustments create the base for the effect<br />

Shortcut<br />

A cloning/healing<br />

layer blends<br />

everything for a<br />

inal touch<br />

Open up the shadows<br />

01<br />

Inside Camera RAW, you can make use of a variety of sliders to<br />

adjust the overall tone of your photo. In this case we are going<br />

to lighten the Shadows, remembering to darken the Blacks as well.<br />

Enhance wrinkles<br />

02<br />

Now mask the hair and then lighten it by opening up the<br />

Shadows completely. You can also add a Local Adjustment of<br />

Clarity on the skin to enhance the wrinkles further, around +20.<br />

Soften with Clarity<br />

03<br />

While you are adjusting the hair, keep in mind that aged hair is<br />

often very soft like cotton candy, and as such, needs to be<br />

softened. Bring down the Clarity with a Local Adjustment to visually<br />

soften the hair.<br />

Adjust temperatures<br />

04<br />

While you are adjusting the hair with a Local Adjustment, bring<br />

down the Saturation. Then, opt for a Warm Temperature to<br />

make the hair look more golden. This image will be your base for<br />

compositing a new image on top, which we show you how to do below.<br />

Take it further Composite images Overlay a photo for optimal realism<br />

Match skin colours<br />

01<br />

Once the base image is prepped,<br />

do your best to choose an image of<br />

an older woman that’s as similar to yours<br />

as possible. Lay it over the top of your<br />

photo, and match the skin colours between<br />

the two female models as best as you can.<br />

Resize accordingly<br />

02<br />

Compositing an image is never<br />

easy, so you need to painstakingly<br />

adjust the two images together until they<br />

blend seamlessly. You will need to resize,<br />

scale, and distort the older woman’s photo<br />

over yours so that they match better.<br />

Adjust layer Opacity<br />

03<br />

It is unlikely your two images will it<br />

exactly. This means you may need<br />

to work on multiple copies of the older<br />

woman. Drop the old woman’s layer Opacity<br />

to about 70%, blending mode of Darken<br />

and blend with layer masks.<br />

81


Elements<br />

What<br />

does it mean?<br />

REFINE EDGE – The Reine Edge<br />

option helps to inesse a selection<br />

once you’ve made it. It can feather<br />

the edges of your selection, smooth<br />

them over and even shift the edges<br />

of your selection; by clicking on<br />

the actual image away from the<br />

dialog box, it is possible to<br />

add and remove pixels.<br />

ADJUST ACCORDINGLY<br />

Use precise adjustments to get<br />

the best out of the colours and<br />

tones of your final composition.<br />

Start images<br />

PLAY WITH PLANETS<br />

Check out the other supplied planets<br />

in the resources, and experiment<br />

with different spheres in the image.<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

82


Elements<br />

Surreal art…<br />

Create a surreal<br />

moon composition<br />

Turn a collection of stock images into a surreal scene<br />

For as long as night has followed day, humans have been obsessed<br />

with the moon, whether they’ve been viewing it through a<br />

telescope, or landing on it in the 1960s and 1970s. Artistically<br />

though, it makes a great focus for a composition!<br />

In this project, we’re going to explore how to make a composition<br />

realistic in tone, if not in scale. The idea is simple: our subject is<br />

placing a moon into the sky with help from a step ladder, and so<br />

we’re going to need to make sure the image is balanced in terms of<br />

the size of its elements. Don’t be afraid to lay out your stock images<br />

on the page when you start: sometimes before making a<br />

composition such as this, it can help to rough it out first.<br />

The most important thing, though, is just to have fun and<br />

experiment whenever you can. There are loads of great techniques<br />

you can learn from attempting a project like this, and we’ve supplied<br />

everything you’ll need to recreate this image in your own style on<br />

the FileSilo. So download, and get creating!<br />

The foundations Build the composition up with brushes, masking and other tools<br />

Begin the composition<br />

01<br />

Start off by opening the background<br />

image and cropping so that you just<br />

have a clear view of the beach, with the<br />

horizon in the distance. Add the supplied<br />

ladder image. Place and add a white-to-black<br />

gradient. Clip this to the ladder by Alt/<br />

Opt-clicking it.<br />

Give it a subject<br />

02<br />

Place the supplied image of the girl.<br />

Use Quick Selection (W) to cut her<br />

out and place her behind the ladder. Use<br />

Reine Edge on the selection, and then Cmd/<br />

Ctrl-click the layer preview of the ladder layer;<br />

ill in this selection with black, on the mask of<br />

the subject.<br />

Recolour with the sunset<br />

03<br />

Shortcut<br />

Alt/Opt-drag a<br />

layer to duplicate it<br />

in the Layers<br />

panel<br />

Add the sunset image. Place it below<br />

the ladder layer and set to Screen; hit<br />

Screen, Invert (Cmd/Ctrl+I) and make big, soft<br />

brush strokes over the sky. Duplicate the<br />

layer and move above the subject. Delete the<br />

mask and follow the annotated screenshot<br />

below to learn how to blend it.<br />

Scatter the stars<br />

04<br />

Add the supplied image of the starry<br />

sky. Set it to Multiply, 80% Opacity<br />

and place it just above the lower sunset layer.<br />

Use the techniques in the annotated<br />

screenshot to blend it in with the image.<br />

TWEAK THE<br />

SUNSET<br />

When you place<br />

the sunset, grab<br />

a sot brush, Alt/<br />

Opt-click colours<br />

from the image,<br />

and brush over<br />

the bottom half.<br />

BLENDING THE<br />

SUBJECT<br />

Cmd/Ctrl-click on<br />

the subject layer<br />

preview, then<br />

Shit+Cmd/Ctrlclick<br />

on the ladder<br />

layer preview. Go to<br />

Filter>Blur>Average<br />

to remove detail<br />

from the subject.<br />

83


Elements<br />

Place the moon<br />

05<br />

Insert the supplied moon image, and<br />

use the Elliptical Marquee Tool to<br />

select it before hitting Screen. Duplicate the<br />

layer, then on a layer below, select a big, soft,<br />

white brush and click to add a glow. Duplicate<br />

this layer and mask out the glow from inside<br />

the moon.<br />

Lay some more planets<br />

06<br />

In the supplied iles, you’ll ind a collection of<br />

various planet stock images, already cut out<br />

and ready to place into your image. Select a few and<br />

place them onto the ground in front of the ladder.<br />

Resize by using Transform (Cmd/Ctrl+T).<br />

Expert tip<br />

Keep realism in<br />

the shadows<br />

When you create the shadows<br />

of your planets and the ladder,<br />

it’s important to remember a<br />

few things to ensure that your<br />

composition stays realistic.<br />

The irst is that the edge of the<br />

shadows can’t be too hard,<br />

which is why we use Gaussian<br />

Blur. Remember to transform<br />

the shadows in a direction<br />

away from the light source, in<br />

this case the moon, and that<br />

the shadows will be darker the<br />

closer they are to the object.<br />

When you mask the excess<br />

from the shadows in step<br />

8, use a dark grey-to-white<br />

gradient, as this will only<br />

mask some of the shadow.<br />

Work on the lighting<br />

07<br />

We need these planets to glow, so<br />

add glowing white brush strokes as<br />

we did with the moon. Clip a Soft Light layer<br />

to each of the planet layers and using soft<br />

black and white brushes, touch-up the lighting<br />

and shading on each of the planets.<br />

Cast some shadows<br />

08<br />

Select the layer previews of all the<br />

planets, plus the ladder. Fill with<br />

black on a layer beneath them all, then go to<br />

Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and choose 10px.<br />

Hit Transform (Cmd/Ctrl+T) and use to resize<br />

and shape each of the shadows as seen in<br />

the screenshot above. You can also mask<br />

them slightly with a gradient.<br />

Liquify the ladder shadow<br />

09<br />

Select the ladder from the layer<br />

preview, again by Cmd/Ctrl-clicking<br />

and ill with black on another new layer above<br />

the shadow layer. Again, blur, then go to<br />

Filter>Distort>Liquify, and create a curve as<br />

seen. Clip to the layer of the planet next to<br />

the ladder and reduce the Opacity setting.<br />

WARP TOOL<br />

Use the Warp tool to<br />

drag pixels around the<br />

main preview area and<br />

distort the shadow.<br />

SIZE AND PRESSURE<br />

Alter the size and pressure<br />

of the brush that you warp<br />

with using the two sliders<br />

on the right-hand side.<br />

HAND AND ZOOM<br />

Zoom in and pan<br />

around by using the<br />

Hand and Zoom tools<br />

at the bottom of the<br />

tool panel.<br />

PUCKER AND BLOAT<br />

Grow or shrink the size of<br />

the object you’re liquifying<br />

by using the Pucker and<br />

Bloat tools on the let.<br />

84


Elements<br />

Make adjustments<br />

10<br />

Go to the Fill Layer icon and choose<br />

some adjustments to subtly enhance<br />

the tone, colour and feel of the piece so far.<br />

We used Levels – alter the red, green and<br />

blue channels – along with Brightness/<br />

Contrast and a black-to-white gradient map.<br />

Reduce noise<br />

11<br />

Hit Cmd/Ctrl+Alt/Opt+Shift+E to create<br />

a merged layer at the top of the stack.<br />

Go to Filter>Noise>Reduce Noise and choose<br />

Strength: 10, both other values at 0. Click OK.<br />

This will smooth over the entire image.<br />

Sharpen it up<br />

12<br />

Again, create a merged layer at the<br />

top of the layer stack. Go to<br />

Filter>Other>High Pass and choose 5px as<br />

the Radius before hitting OK and setting to<br />

Overlay. This will sharpen up the image again,<br />

and add detail to the highlights.<br />

Add noise<br />

13<br />

Once more, create a merged layer at the top of your layer<br />

stack, and this time go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise. Select<br />

Amount: 400%, Distribution: Gaussian and check the Monochrome box.<br />

Click OK and set to Soft Light, 20% Opacity.<br />

Master lighting<br />

with blend modes<br />

Use Screen, Lighten and Soft Light<br />

for different effects<br />

When creating a composition that relies largely<br />

on light and light sources, it’s incredibly important<br />

to get the best out of the light in your picture. As<br />

a inishing touch, we’ve inserted a bokeh texture,<br />

available in the supplied resources. By setting the<br />

texture to Screen, only the lightest colours become<br />

visible, but if you want to let through light and<br />

dark, set the blend mode to Sot Light. Alternately,<br />

Lighten will only show pixels lighter than the<br />

colours of the layers below.<br />

Get to know your blend modes so that you’ll be<br />

able to keep all your images consistent in tone.<br />

Experiment with Screen, Lighten and Sot Light in<br />

this tutorial and see what efects you can create.<br />

Tweak the colours<br />

14<br />

Finally, with everything else in the image complete, add a<br />

Photo Filter, a black-to-white gradient set to Soft Light, 20%<br />

Opacity, and then add a gradient of yellow to navy via purple, as seen<br />

above, to bring out the colours of the inal composition.<br />

Shortcut<br />

Hit Cmd/Ctrl+F to<br />

repeat the last<br />

ilter that you<br />

used<br />

85


Elements<br />

LOOK CLOSELY<br />

Though it may look like it was<br />

hand-drawn, every element of<br />

this piece was created using<br />

selection and shape tools.<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Digital art…<br />

Illustrate a scene<br />

using selections<br />

Master the Lasso tool and draw without a graphics tablet<br />

Digital art can be an expensive hobby. Once you’ve got your<br />

hands on software, you might consider purchasing accessories<br />

such as printers, scanners, graphics tablets and plug-ins. However,<br />

none of these extra purchases are entirely necessary for creating<br />

digital art. This tutorial will show you how to create a lovely piece<br />

using tools already available to you, and techniques that can be<br />

completed using your regular mouse.<br />

We’ll be painting a nautical scene using Elements. All the tools<br />

we will require are under the Expert tab – but don’t let that put you<br />

off! All the menus we will be using are simple to navigate and the<br />

tools are easy to apply. To make things even more straightforward,<br />

we would recommend first finding a picture of a lighthouse<br />

standing over the ocean to use as reference for this tutorial. If you<br />

can copy and paste the image into Elements, feel free to trace<br />

over it during step one.<br />

The end result will be an attractive, illustrative image of a<br />

lighthouse at night: an excellent piece to use as a gift, or print off<br />

and frame in your own home. The techniques we will cover can be<br />

used for any of your future projects, and will hopefully improve your<br />

skill and confidence when drawing in Elements.<br />

86


Elements<br />

Default tools Create this nautical scene without the aid of a graphics tablet<br />

Sketch your scene<br />

01<br />

Under the Expert tab, create a new<br />

document and then a new layer.<br />

Select a small hard brush, 100% Opacity and<br />

10px in size. Use the Colour Picker to choose<br />

a bright colour, like blue or red, and sketch the<br />

lighthouse scene. Trace an image if needed.<br />

Prepare for colour<br />

02<br />

Once your sketch is done, set the<br />

blend mode to Multiply. Create<br />

another layer below that one, and ill it with a<br />

light-blue colour using the Bucket tool. You<br />

should notice that your sketch’s lines are now<br />

darker; this will make them easier to see as<br />

you apply colour.<br />

Using the Lasso<br />

03<br />

Create another new layer above the<br />

blue ill layer. Select the Lasso tool<br />

and use it to trace the outline of one of the<br />

rock formations. Use the Colour Picker to<br />

choose a dark blue, and use the Bucket tool<br />

to ill the selected area. Repeat until all the<br />

rocks are illed.<br />

Draw the sea foam<br />

04<br />

You can complete the sea foam using the same technique as<br />

the rocks. Create a new layer beneath the rocks layer, use the<br />

Colour Picker to choose a light grey/blue, and trace over the sea foam<br />

areas. Try to make the shapes more rounded than the rocks.<br />

Shortcut<br />

Press the L key to<br />

quickly select the<br />

Lasso tool<br />

Create the sea<br />

05<br />

Create another new layer, beneath the rocks and the foam.<br />

Select a deep blue and use the Rectangular Marquee tool to<br />

draw a rectangle across your canvas. This will be the basic colour for<br />

the sea, so make sure you keep the rectangle below the horizon line<br />

you drew in your sketch.<br />

What<br />

does it mean?<br />

LASSO TOOL – This is a useful and<br />

versatile tool for drawing freeform<br />

without the aid of a graphics tablet.<br />

It enables you to draw any shape<br />

using the mouse, and create a<br />

selection. This selection area can<br />

be illed in using the Bucket<br />

tool, moved using the Move<br />

tool, or removed with<br />

the Delete key.<br />

JAGGED LINES<br />

Draw sharp, pointed edges using the<br />

Lasso and Square Marquee tools to give<br />

your rock formations a harder look.<br />

RESHAPE YOUR<br />

COLOURS<br />

Taper the foam and rocks<br />

by drawing over them<br />

with the Lasso, and<br />

hitting the delete key.<br />

87


Elements<br />

Darken the sky<br />

06<br />

Repeat the last step for the night sky,<br />

using a darker blue. Then select an<br />

even darker blue, and set your brush to a<br />

200px+ Airbrush. Draw around the top<br />

corners of the canvas to create a shadow<br />

across the sky. You don’t need a graphics<br />

tablet for this – the mouse will work ine!<br />

Making waves<br />

07<br />

Go back to your sea layer. Select the blue using<br />

the Eyedropper tool, then make it slightly darker<br />

in the Colour Picker. Using the Lasso tool, draw several<br />

rough, snaking lines across the layer, and ill them using<br />

the Bucket tool to shade in some waves.<br />

Expert tip<br />

Blur the moon<br />

for realism<br />

The moon is obviously a far<br />

away object, so drawing it<br />

with a very hard edge will look<br />

incorrect in your image. To ix<br />

this, soten the edges of the<br />

moon by selecting the moon<br />

layer, then go to Filter>Blur><br />

Gaussian Blur. A new window<br />

will appear. This includes a<br />

preview window, which will<br />

show how the blur will edit<br />

your currently selected asset.<br />

Adjust the Radius slider to<br />

between 2.0 and 2.5. Try to<br />

keep it within these numbers;<br />

blurring it too much will make<br />

it look out of focus, instead<br />

of far away. Click OK, and the<br />

blur will be applied.<br />

Choppy sea<br />

08<br />

Repeat the process using another<br />

slightly darker blue. Fill in the gaps<br />

between your irst lot of waves. This will give<br />

your ocean a sense of depth. If you’re ever<br />

unsatisied with a shape you’ve drawn, draw<br />

back over it with the Lasso, and press delete<br />

to taper the shape.<br />

Light in the dark<br />

09<br />

Use the aforementioned technique<br />

one more time, using a blue that is<br />

lighter than your ocean’s base colour. Be<br />

much more sparing with your use of this<br />

colour. Keep your shapes small, aside from<br />

one area near the horizon. We’ll be using this<br />

in the next few steps.<br />

Moon over the water<br />

10<br />

Create a new layer above your night<br />

sky layer. Using the Circle Marquee<br />

tool, draw a perfect circle above the<br />

highlighted area of the sea below. Select a<br />

near-white blue in the Colour Picker, and ill<br />

your shape with the Bucket tool.<br />

STRIKING COLOURS<br />

Using the Lasso tool like this<br />

creates sharp, striking artwork. It’s<br />

great for creating illustrative work.<br />

GRAPHICS TABLET<br />

If you do have access to a graphics<br />

tablet, use it to draw in extra<br />

details, like small rocks.<br />

COLOUR CONTRAST<br />

Make sure each colour<br />

stands out. Use the Bucket<br />

tool to adjust them.<br />

A PERFECT CIRCLE<br />

To draw a complete circle, hold Shit<br />

as you draw outward with the Circle<br />

Marquee tool.<br />

88


Elements<br />

Bright side of the moon<br />

11<br />

Just as you did with the waves, use<br />

the Lasso tool to draw details on the<br />

moon. First, press the Opacity Lock button<br />

from the top of the Layers panel. This will<br />

prevent you from colouring outside of the<br />

moon. Select two shades of dark greys, draw<br />

in your squiggly lines, and use the Bucket tool<br />

to ill them in.<br />

Moonlight<br />

12<br />

Create a new layer above the moon,<br />

set it to Overlay. Using a near-white<br />

colour, select Brush tool, set to the airbrush<br />

you used earlier. Click around the moon; this<br />

will create perfect soft circles around it, which<br />

will make it look like it’s glowing.<br />

Lighthouse<br />

13<br />

Create a new layer above the rock<br />

layer, and use the Lasso tool to draw<br />

in the lighthouse. Use a light white to ill in<br />

the selection, then select a grey/purple to<br />

draw in the details. Use the Lasso and<br />

Square Marquee tools to draw straight and<br />

angular lines for the windows.<br />

Shade the scene<br />

14<br />

Go back to your rock layer, and use a darker shade of purple<br />

and the Lasso tool to draw jagged shapes. Fill them in with the<br />

Bucket tool. Do this again with a darker shade, to give the rocks<br />

deinition. Apply the same technique to the lighthouse; use Opacity<br />

Lock to keep the shading within the lighthouse shape.<br />

Gradient maps<br />

The easy way to instantly apply<br />

beautiful colour<br />

Elements has many tools for adjusting the<br />

colour of a inal piece. Gradient maps can<br />

produce some truly beautiful results. Set<br />

your Foreground swatch to a dark colour and<br />

your Background swatch to a lighter colour.<br />

Create a gradient map by going to Layer><br />

New Adjustment Layer>Gradient Map. This<br />

will create a new layer with the colour efects<br />

applied. The darker colours of your piece will<br />

be enhanced by the irst colour you selected,<br />

and the lighter colours by the second.<br />

Now experiment with blend modes. Overlay,<br />

Color Dodge and Sot Light are good options.<br />

Lower the Opacity to 70% or lower, so the<br />

gradient map doesn’t overpower your piece.<br />

A light in the darkness<br />

15<br />

Create a new layer beneath the lighthouse layer, and use the<br />

Lasso to draw a straight line from the top of the lighthouse to<br />

the horizon line. Select the Gradient tool, and adjust the settings to<br />

Foreground to Transparent. Drag from the top of the lighthouse to the<br />

horizon line to create a fading light.<br />

Shortcut<br />

Press K for the<br />

Bucket tool, G for<br />

the Gradient<br />

tool<br />

89


Elements<br />

QA+<br />

Get in touch<br />

COMMON PROBLEMS IN<br />

ELEMENTS<br />

Ask on Twitter<br />

@Pshop<strong>Creative</strong><br />

Post on facebook<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong><strong>Creative</strong><br />

Alternatively, you can email:<br />

mark.white03@futurenet.com<br />

CAN I USE WATERCOLOUR<br />

TEXTURES IN MY WORK?<br />

Watercolour textures are popular resources on the<br />

internet, and are great for incorporating into your projects.<br />

While you might want to use them as overlays for digital<br />

art or incorporate them into compositions, they can be<br />

central to creating beautiful textured artwork, too.<br />

Start of with an image and then go to the Fill Layer<br />

icon. Select Threshold to reduce the layer to just black<br />

and white. With your image now being two colours,<br />

drop in your watercolour textures; we’ve supplied some<br />

on the FileSilo to use. Set these to a Screen or Lighten<br />

blend mode and use the Levels adjustment to tweak the<br />

contrast and exposure of the textures.<br />

Finally, add a watercolour paper texture to the<br />

background and set to the Multiply blend mode to add a<br />

little more to the background. Play with the Gradient Map<br />

and Brightness/Contrast adjustment layers to harmonise<br />

the image further, bearing in mind that a stronger contrast<br />

will make your image stand out more.<br />

PERFECT THE THRESHOLD<br />

Use a black or white brush on your<br />

Threshold layer to edit the contrast<br />

of the image.<br />

On the FileSilo<br />

Download your free<br />

resources at www.filesilo.<br />

co.uk/photoshopcreative<br />

Before<br />

PICK LOCATIONS WISELY<br />

Use two scenes that have similar<br />

horizons or elements, such as the<br />

trees in this image.<br />

WHAT IS OUT OF BOUNDS, AND IS IT EASY<br />

TO CREATE IN ELEMENTS?<br />

An out-of-bounds composition places some kind of screen or window in one<br />

image, with elements breaking out of the screen and spilling into the scene. They’re<br />

extremely fun to make and can really bring out your creativity.<br />

Start with the supplied image of the bucolic, grassy scene, and cut out the iPad<br />

to place into the image, before cutting out the screen of the iPad, too. Place the<br />

beach scene within the iPad and then add the supplied sunrise stock image, using<br />

Multiply to blend the two images together. Add some more sand and hit Mask; with<br />

a sot brush, blend the sand falling out of the iPad and onto the grass.<br />

Next, add the birds and the subject: you can cut the birds out with the Magic<br />

Wand and the subject out with Quick Selection. Then, duplicate your original scene<br />

and move it to the top of the layer stack. Hit Mask, then Invert (Cmd/Ctrl+I). Select<br />

a white grass brush, and mask in the grass over the edge of the sand and the iPad.<br />

Finish with a Lens Flare (Filter>Render>Lens Flare) and make adjustments if need<br />

be, such as Hue/Saturation and Levels, using the Fill Layer icon.<br />

90


Before<br />

VIEW LAYERS<br />

Once you select Expert<br />

mode, you’ll be able to see<br />

all the edits you’ve made as<br />

individual layers.<br />

IS THERE AN EASY<br />

WAY TO RETOUCH MY<br />

PORTRAITS?<br />

There are loads of great ways to retouch your<br />

portraits but one of the easiest is using the<br />

Guided Edit section of Elements, and going to<br />

the Perfect Portrait option.<br />

From here, you’ll see a list of edits that<br />

you can make down the right-hand side of<br />

the window, from smoothing skin and using<br />

the Spot-Healing Brush to Red Eye Removal.<br />

Use each of these options one by one, and<br />

remember that subtlety is key. It’s also<br />

possible to use the tools in creative ways;<br />

you may wish to use the Darken Eyebrows<br />

feature to contour the cheeks or use the Spot<br />

Healing Brush to smooth the lips.<br />

Once finished, you can go into the Expert<br />

workspace to make further edits.<br />

Elements<br />

HOW CAN I TURN MY<br />

IMAGES INTO PENCIL<br />

SKETCHES?<br />

Mastering how to create pencil sketches<br />

on paper might be extremely difficult, but<br />

creating them in Elements is less so. You<br />

can use the Brush Tool to trace an image in<br />

Expert mode, or create a quick sketch of any<br />

picture by using the Quick mode.<br />

Simply open the picture you want to<br />

transform into a pencil sketch and go to<br />

Quick. Under Pencil Sketch, you’ll find four<br />

potential options, all slightly different and<br />

varying in style. From there, if you pick<br />

one, you can turn your image into a sketch<br />

immediately, but the real editing comes in<br />

once you click back on Expert.<br />

Use Brightness/Contrast and Levels<br />

to adjust the look of your sketch, and<br />

remember that you can still use brushes to<br />

edit the image.<br />

Before<br />

Before<br />

Quick tip<br />

Using<br />

Outer Glow<br />

The Outer Glow layer<br />

style is one of the most<br />

useful tricks in your editing<br />

arsenal for making your<br />

layers stand out. Simply<br />

by applying an outer glow<br />

to a picture, you can give<br />

your layer added warmth<br />

or prominence over the<br />

background. It’s great for<br />

light effects, too. Use it in<br />

conjunction with the Drop<br />

Shadow to make a layer<br />

stand out even more, but<br />

remember to use it subtly,<br />

as it can look over-the-top<br />

in some cases.<br />

WHAT IS THE<br />

GRAPHICS TAB<br />

USED FOR?<br />

In Elements, we usually work with<br />

the Layers palette firmly on the<br />

right-hand side of the window at all<br />

times. But if you check along the<br />

bottom-right of the program, you’ll<br />

see that there are other options,<br />

including Graphics.<br />

This provides exactly what you’d<br />

expect. Click on there, view them,<br />

and double-click to apply a graphic<br />

as the background to your image.<br />

They’re great for placing subjects<br />

onto or can form the basis of a new<br />

project. There is also a range of<br />

styles for you to explore.<br />

91


REVIEWS LANDSCAPEPRO 2<br />

SOFTWARE<br />

Price £29.95 / $49.95 US Coupon code PST17 Web www.landscapepro.pics/<br />

LandscapePro 2<br />

The specs<br />

Company<br />

Anthropics<br />

Feature<br />

Intelligent automated<br />

masking<br />

Sky replacement<br />

3D Lighting brushes<br />

RAW file support<br />

Anthropics’ update to its intelligent software makes editing landscape images easier than ever<br />

View the original<br />

The option to quickly switch<br />

back to the original image is<br />

a really handy feature to help<br />

you monitor how much you<br />

have edited.<br />

Simple interface<br />

The program is laid out in a way<br />

that’s easy to use, and the pop-up<br />

prompts really make editing easy.<br />

Drop-Down menuS<br />

The drop-down menus make editing<br />

simple and split up each section you<br />

have masked for localised editing.<br />

Enhance landscapes Use this intelligent software to transform vistas and replace the sky<br />

Import your image<br />

01<br />

Upon opening the interface, you will<br />

have the options to open an example<br />

image, watch a video tutorial or import your<br />

own image. Select the option to import your<br />

own image and choose the one that you<br />

would like to edit.<br />

Label the image<br />

02<br />

Next, you will be prompted to drag<br />

labels onto parts of the image to<br />

identify them for the masks. We labelled the<br />

sky, grass, mountain and trees. You will most<br />

likely have to alter the selections, which is<br />

done by dragging them.<br />

Select a sky<br />

03<br />

We wanted to change the cloud<br />

formations and make something a<br />

little different, so we selected a new sky from<br />

the Clouds drop-down menu. You will probably<br />

have to try a few in order to ind one that<br />

works with your image.<br />

92


This intelligent editing software aims to<br />

help simplify the photographer’s<br />

workflow with a powerful alternative to<br />

spending hours meticulously editing<br />

landscape shots. LandscapePro 2 offers the<br />

user dramatic effects in just a few simple<br />

steps and its interface will suit any skill level of<br />

photographer or photo editor.<br />

The unique controls and intelligent selection<br />

tools adapt to the image you are working on.<br />

The software helps users process landscape<br />

imagery with essential features that make<br />

replacing skies and altering clouds simple,<br />

using presets or by uploading your own<br />

imagery. It will enable you to brighten,<br />

recolour and even replace skies, as well as<br />

offering automatic area selection, targeted<br />

editing, distance controls, one-click presets,<br />

lighting controls and RAW file support.<br />

This latest version includes new lighting<br />

brushes, over 100 new sky presets, a new Sky<br />

Reflections label and improved selection tools.<br />

The interface is simple throughout and<br />

although it might be initially daunting with its<br />

multiple drop-down menus and sliders, we<br />

found it to be intuitive and relatively easy to<br />

pick up with a little experimentation. As you<br />

progress through your edit, the software gives<br />

you tips in pop-up boxes, which we found<br />

really helpful, especially during the first few<br />

times we used the software.<br />

Once you have selected an image, you are<br />

prompted to drag labels from the main panel<br />

over the different elements in the image. This<br />

applies masks to the labelled parts of the<br />

image, which enables localised adjustments.<br />

The software then attempts to identify the<br />

areas of the image associated with each label,<br />

however, generally you will need to alter them<br />

yourself by selecting and dragging the masks.<br />

In the latest update this feels easier and more<br />

responsive than the first, but you will have to<br />

spend a little time in detailed areas.<br />

When you come across more complicated<br />

objects, you can employ the Object In Sky or<br />

the Tree & Sky tools, which enable you to<br />

brush over objects to separate the two masks.<br />

In general, these tools were impressive, with<br />

only a couple of errors. The masking process<br />

is simple and the software identifies subjects<br />

intelligently, and it’s probably quicker than<br />

doing the same thing in <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

Once you have created the masks, you will<br />

be able to apply adjustments to the image as<br />

a whole, or to the individual sections you have<br />

created. Each section has its own drop-down<br />

menu with the adjustments available. You will<br />

be able to replace the sky or alter the clouds<br />

and their density or colour to completely<br />

transform your landscape capture. You’ll also<br />

have the option to relight the image, change<br />

the time of day and adjust the depth of field,<br />

which will transform your imagery in an<br />

impressive way.<br />

Although we think it’s accessible to all<br />

levels, we’re not sure if it will appeal to<br />

everyone. The masking is powerful and one of<br />

the most effective of its kind, but it can be a<br />

little laborious with more detailed landscapes.<br />

If you’ are a photographer who spends their<br />

days editing landscape after landscape,<br />

LandscapePro 2 might be the perfect solution<br />

for you to make dramatic adjustments to your<br />

captures and take them a little further than<br />

you might have in <strong>Photoshop</strong>. That said, there<br />

are certainly still some improvements that<br />

could be made – the two obvious ones being<br />

speed and responsiveness.<br />

Already discounted to a very reasonable<br />

£29.95 ($49.95), readers of <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

<strong>Creative</strong> can get a further 10% off the price by<br />

using the Coupon Code PST17 at checkout.<br />

The verdict<br />

For the price, it is worth a go.<br />

It’s unique and will enable you to<br />

delve into your landscapes with<br />

intelligent automatic selection<br />

9and creative presets.<br />

Standout feature<br />

Replace and edit the sky<br />

The Sky Replacement tool seems to be the<br />

most intelligent feature; you can completely<br />

replace a sky with one of your own images, or<br />

change the clouds and their density. We were<br />

impressed by the option to flawlessly remove<br />

all of the clouds with a mere click of the mouse.<br />

Change the lighting<br />

04<br />

Go into the Lighting drop-down menu<br />

and alter the strength of the light.<br />

Then drag the black Lighting icon to where on<br />

the image you would like the light source to<br />

come from.<br />

Use Lighting brushes<br />

05<br />

Enhance the lighting in your image by<br />

painting on light with the 2D Lighting<br />

brush. It will intelligently mould onto the<br />

landscape for a realistic effect.<br />

93


PLUG-IN<br />

CHOOSE AN<br />

EFFECT<br />

Pick a speciic style of<br />

lens lare or lighting<br />

efect by visiting the<br />

let-hand panel and<br />

double-clicking to add<br />

the efect.<br />

Price £76 (approx) $99 US Web http://akvis.com/<br />

FLARE<br />

ELEMENTS<br />

Add or remove<br />

elements of the lens<br />

lare to customise<br />

and reine exactly<br />

how you wish your<br />

lighting efect to look.<br />

SLIDERS<br />

Improve on the elements<br />

you’ve added to the<br />

photo: change colours,<br />

opacity and size of<br />

everything in your lare.<br />

The specs<br />

Company<br />

AKVIS<br />

Additional specs<br />

Windows XP and above<br />

Mac 10.7 and above<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> CS3 and above<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> Elements 6 and above<br />

Standout feature<br />

Elements panel<br />

Add or remove parts of your lens lare using the<br />

panel in the top-right corner, and control how<br />

your lare looks. You can also copy elements or<br />

rearrange them, meaning that every lighting<br />

efect is completely customisable.<br />

AKVIS LightShop<br />

Add lens flares to your work and refine the lighting with this exciting and accurate plug-in<br />

Lighting can be the difference between a<br />

good photo and a bad one. Well-lit photos<br />

grab attention for all the right reasons. But<br />

can something as fundamentally important as<br />

lighting be creative, and how can you possibly<br />

get imaginative with it?<br />

Though <strong>Photoshop</strong> offers many ilters for<br />

improving your lighting, AKVIS LightShop can<br />

help to take your lighting even further; it’s<br />

available as a plug-in for <strong>Photoshop</strong> too,<br />

making it easy to use alongside your other<br />

ilters. LightShop is structured like most<br />

AKVIS plug-ins; offering an array of presets<br />

for applying to work, along with thorough<br />

sliders for tweaking anything you like in your<br />

lighting. As with other AKVIS plug-ins,<br />

LightShop is wonderfully easy to get to grips<br />

with, and the irst impressions of the software<br />

are great.<br />

While LightShop is essentially a collection<br />

of lens lare stock images, the plug-in is far<br />

more advanced than just inserting light effects<br />

into your photos. The lares you add to your<br />

work are nicely blended into the image, and<br />

you can adjust the opacity. Everything is also<br />

labelled with images where necessary, so you<br />

can alter just about anything in your lens lare<br />

quickly and eficiently.<br />

LightShop is a great addition to <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

because it builds on the Lens Flare feature<br />

without being dificult to work with. The<br />

effects are eclectic and easy to tinker with,<br />

making LightShop a must for photo editors<br />

who want to improve lighting in their work.<br />

The verdict<br />

A useful upgrade on the Lens<br />

Flare tool and one of the most<br />

in-depth plug-ins AKVIS has<br />

produced, LightShop is also very<br />

9user-friendly.<br />

Five great effects A taste of the creative options available to you<br />

Colour filters<br />

01<br />

These help to add<br />

bursts of light to<br />

your image, but they’re<br />

also capable of lending a<br />

little hue and saturation to<br />

any landscape.<br />

Sunset<br />

02<br />

The Sunset option<br />

is a good lighting<br />

effect to display on a<br />

horizon, with the light<br />

spots facing upwards<br />

towards the sky.<br />

Cascade of<br />

Light<br />

03<br />

One of the most<br />

ostentatious lens<br />

lares, with bright lares,<br />

spots and rings, to be built<br />

up or stripped back.<br />

Moonlight<br />

04<br />

Moonlight simply<br />

adds a sphere to<br />

the work with a bright halo;<br />

it can transform night<br />

shots or make day shots a<br />

little more surreal.<br />

Shining Star<br />

05<br />

This effect is<br />

bright, has bursts<br />

of light and softer light<br />

spots scattered across<br />

the image, making it good<br />

for corner placement.<br />

94


AKVIS OIlPAInt<br />

REVIEWS<br />

PLUG-IN<br />

PRESETS<br />

Choose a preset<br />

digital art option<br />

from the drop-down<br />

list, and either leave<br />

it at that, or tweak<br />

the sliders further to<br />

perfect the efect.<br />

Price £54 (approx) $69 US Web http://akvis.com/<br />

PREVIEW<br />

AREA<br />

See your image<br />

take shape in<br />

the preview area<br />

of the program,<br />

and use the Ater<br />

tab to see the<br />

completed efect.<br />

SLIDERS<br />

Use the sliders to alter everything<br />

about your image, from the<br />

simplicity of the composition to how<br />

random the strokes are.<br />

The specs<br />

Company<br />

AKVIS<br />

Additional specs<br />

Windows XP and above<br />

Mac 10.7 and above<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> CS3 and above<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> Elements 6 and above<br />

Standout feature<br />

Abstract Art tab<br />

While most digital art plug-ins create paintings<br />

based on the photo you’re converting, OilPaint<br />

is diferent. the Abstract Art tab can distort<br />

your image, add new colours and take the<br />

image in a whole new direction.<br />

AKVIS OilPaint<br />

Turn any image into a digital painting of beautiful strokes using this simple plug-in<br />

Digital painting is one of those skills that<br />

fall into the category of being easy to<br />

learn, but hard to master. It takes<br />

patience, time and lots of practise to become<br />

a great digital artist, not to mention a lot of<br />

experimenting to ind your style. But that<br />

doesn’t mean it’s not fun to play around with<br />

digital art and create basic paintings in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> from nothing.<br />

AKVIS OilPaint is available either as a<br />

standalone app or as an add-on to <strong>Photoshop</strong>,<br />

and can help you evolve as a digital artist and<br />

develop your own style. It can turn any photo<br />

into digital artwork using presets and sliders,<br />

making it easy to achieve an effect that would<br />

otherwise take a lot of time and effort.<br />

While this may suggest OilPaint doesn’t<br />

give much control over your work, this isn’t<br />

the case at all. The sliders are precise and can<br />

control everything from detail to brush size.<br />

OilPaint is fantastically in-depth and you can<br />

create something unique every time: while it<br />

can be used to create a inished image, you<br />

can also add more effects in <strong>Photoshop</strong>.<br />

OilPaint makes a great addition to<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong>, because it slots right into your<br />

worklow, has a plethora of options for<br />

tweaking work, and is extremely versatile. It’s<br />

useful for <strong>Photoshop</strong> beginners looking to<br />

learn more about digital paintings, but it can<br />

be used by more advanced artists seeking to<br />

save time with their work; digital painting<br />

might be easy to learn, but OilPaint can take<br />

your skills to the next level.<br />

The verdict<br />

A useful plug-in for all levels of<br />

digital artists, OilPaint has quick,<br />

accurate and unique efects to<br />

help you transform any image<br />

8into a digital work of art.<br />

Five great presets Some of the ways to get creative with OilPaint<br />

Impasto<br />

01<br />

This effect excels<br />

in creating thick,<br />

painterly strokes with a<br />

clear brush pattern,<br />

perfect for leaving as a<br />

inished digital painting.<br />

Dramatic Colors<br />

02<br />

The Dramatic<br />

Colors preset is<br />

good for saturating your<br />

image a little and making<br />

each of the hues really<br />

pop in your painting.<br />

Magnific +<br />

Frame & Canvas<br />

03<br />

This preset does<br />

three things; it<br />

adds a canvas, a frame<br />

and completes the look<br />

with subtle brush strokes.<br />

Fresco<br />

04<br />

This is simplistic,<br />

bold and gives<br />

you a great starting point<br />

to go further and add your<br />

own custom brush strokes<br />

to the image.<br />

Wild Strokes<br />

05<br />

The Wild Strokes<br />

option is big, bold<br />

and painterly. It is great<br />

when used on photos of<br />

skies and water because it<br />

gives a rippled feel.<br />

95


Portfolio interview<br />

carolrempto.<br />

myportfolio.com/<br />

With work featured by<br />

TheStudentShow along with<br />

Behance’s <strong>Photoshop</strong> and<br />

Illustration galleries online, Carolina<br />

Rempto is a digital artist who’s already<br />

seen critical acclaim for her work, not to<br />

mention thousands of views.<br />

As someone deeply passionate about<br />

digital painting, Carolina is constantly<br />

undergoing exciting new projects. We<br />

asked her about her favourite ones, and<br />

what tips she has for beginners.<br />

Have you always been interested<br />

in art and design?<br />

I’ve always been the kind of kid that was<br />

quiet and drawing something. At first I<br />

was drawing dresses and princesses,<br />

when I grew up a little I started to copy<br />

the comics that I read in my favourite<br />

teenage magazines. When I was about to<br />

begin a Graphic Design course, I started<br />

to learn <strong>Photoshop</strong> and it soon became<br />

essential in my life. Now I work with it<br />

every day.<br />

Who are your biggest influences?<br />

Well, I think my biggest artistic influence<br />

is Mary Blair (the artist who produced<br />

concept art for such films as Alice in<br />

Wonderland, Peter Pan, Song of the South<br />

and Cinderella). I’ve always loved Disney<br />

movies and when I finally discovered the<br />

artist behind some of them, I fell in love<br />

with her art. I didn’t start to create like I<br />

do now, though I’ve been in a lot of places<br />

when it comes to creation and creativity,<br />

but the more you know about art, about<br />

yourself and your tools, the better you<br />

get. You never stop developing!<br />

Would you describe your artwork<br />

in a similar way to how one might<br />

describe Disney art?<br />

I would describe my work as colourful,<br />

whimsical and cute. It is a result of<br />

everything I love and I think that is how I<br />

would like the world to be: so similar to<br />

The power of<br />

brushes & textures<br />

Carolina Rempto tells us her biggest influences, how she became<br />

interested in art, and how she creates her stunning digital paintings<br />

Disney in that sense. I observed a lot of<br />

illustrators that create similar art and tried<br />

to absorb the aspects that I like in their<br />

art to create something unique, that is<br />

truly mine. For me, it is super important<br />

to keep an eye on what illustrators that I<br />

like are doing. It seems like the more you<br />

see, the more you learn and apply it to<br />

your own work.<br />

What are your favourite tools and<br />

features in <strong>Photoshop</strong>?<br />

My favourite tool is the Brush, I use it all<br />

the time, but I also love the Magic Wand<br />

as it saves me a lot of time. Another great<br />

thing is that you can add masks to the<br />

layers, which is magical! My creative<br />

process usually starts with some options<br />

I’ve created as digital sketches in<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong>, then I start to separate the<br />

shapes of the drawing by using layers and<br />

flat colours. After that, I test a lot of<br />

colours, and when I decide that I like the<br />

combination, I add some textures and<br />

details to finalise it.<br />

As a digital artist, and someone<br />

who uses brushes a lot in their<br />

work, textures must be really<br />

important to you, too<br />

Yes. Textures are really important in my<br />

work, as I think they bring life to the<br />

illustration. My favourite adjustment is<br />

Hue/Saturation, because it gives me the<br />

chance to change the colour of the work<br />

without really altering it too much. It<br />

allows me to try new combinations of<br />

colours on a project, which is great.<br />

What tips would you give to<br />

<strong>Photoshop</strong> beginners looking to<br />

achieve results as good as yours?<br />

Tutorials are great, they help a lot. But<br />

don’t limit yourself to it. Try new things,<br />

try to discover what each tool does and<br />

use it in unexpected ways. You’ll find that<br />

the way you use <strong>Photoshop</strong> is always a<br />

little bit different from the way others do,<br />

so I would say to find your way to use it,<br />

learn your favourite shortcuts (you’re<br />

going to save a lot of time using them!)<br />

and focus on doing your work. <strong>Photoshop</strong><br />

is a great tool to achieve your final result,<br />

so focus on that.<br />

Which projects have you worked<br />

on that you’re most proud of?<br />

I recently did a comic about a girl that<br />

was seeking the truth, it was called Azul<br />

and it was truly a life-changing project. I<br />

never tried to do comics before and I<br />

absolutely loved it! It pushed my limits<br />

and made me discover sides of my work<br />

that I never saw before. Another project<br />

that I’m really proud of is the special<br />

edition plate I’ve illustrated for a national<br />

chain of Italian restaurants here in Brazil,<br />

that was sold for a short period of time all<br />

over the country. I’m really hoping to work<br />

with concept art somewhere in the future,<br />

so I might invest some of my time<br />

studying more about that subject so I can<br />

achieve these goals.<br />

Happy and Satisfied: This was a personal piece I did about a<br />

cat really happy and satisfied with its life. It’s available as a<br />

cushion, a travel mug, a tote bag and a phone case.<br />

All images © Carolina Rempto<br />

96


The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe: This project<br />

was developed for the Type and Image class at SCAD.<br />

The goal was to do a cover for a book that we like. The<br />

main idea that I chose to represent the book is the<br />

balance between Aslan and the White Queen.<br />

Art + Beer: This project is a series of illustrated posters about<br />

beer and how people relate to it. Relaxation, Lifestyle, Fun and<br />

Love were the themes and the typography was made by hand.<br />

Amazonian Myths: There are many interesting mythological<br />

creatures in Brazilian folk tales, so I chose some of the<br />

Amazonian myths to paint in a series of illustrations!<br />

Harry Potter illustration: This was a project that gave 13 artists<br />

the opportunity to create a digital painting of a Harry Potter<br />

character. The project has been viewed over 5,000 times online.<br />

97


Reader interview<br />

Flower of Life<br />

The<br />

Macaque<br />

Island<br />

No Life<br />

The<br />

Wanderer<br />

The making of Rebirth of<br />

Paradise<br />

How Maciej turned a series of stock photos into<br />

one utopian composition<br />

Creating the<br />

background<br />

I started to composite<br />

the background<br />

together by masking<br />

two pictures: the<br />

sky and the roots. I<br />

wanted the image to<br />

look bright and warm.<br />

98<br />

Maciej Matuszak<br />

Polish artist Maciej on inspiration, messages in his work and<br />

how to create amazing, unique artwork<br />

Inspiration can strike from anywhere, and<br />

that’s something that Maciej Matuszak, a<br />

graphic designer who works for an<br />

advertising agency by day, embraces. Though all<br />

his work looks diferent, he takes inluence from all<br />

over, including his surroundings. “I come from a<br />

very beautiful country,” he says of Poland. “I<br />

encourage everyone to visit.”<br />

We caught up with Maciej to ind out how he<br />

creates his amazing work.<br />

Can you tell us where your<br />

inspiration comes from?<br />

Oten everything goes straight from my head to the<br />

computer. At the beginning I search for diferent<br />

photographs. Oten when I browse for images, I ind<br />

something special, and then when I have the idea, I<br />

start building from there.<br />

Do you have a message you try and<br />

convey in your work?<br />

I try to say something, not with everything that I<br />

create, but I think that subject matter and title can<br />

help send a message. But I like it the best when<br />

someone tells me what they see in my work, and<br />

then we can discuss the subject together.<br />

What subject matters do you<br />

explore most in your work?<br />

All of my pictures are diferent, but I’d like to think<br />

they all have an air of mystery. I like exploring<br />

space with my artwork, but equally, I don’t mind<br />

what I create as long as it’s interesting.<br />

Are there any tips that you would<br />

give to beginners?<br />

Be as creative as you can and just try to develop<br />

your own style. Don’t focus too much about what<br />

other people are doing. Ask experienced artists<br />

for feedback and then see what it is they have to<br />

say about it.<br />

What Once Was<br />

Rebirth of Paradise<br />

If you are inspired by Maciej’s art on these pages,<br />

you can see more of his work at www.<br />

photoshopcreative.co.uk/user/<br />

inspireyourmind<br />

NEXT ISSUE ON SALE 20 JULY <strong>2017</strong>!<br />

Plant some<br />

trees<br />

Next I added some<br />

trees, using Channels<br />

to cut them out, as I<br />

find it to be a simple<br />

way to isolate colour<br />

in a layer. I added<br />

shade all over and<br />

matched light relative<br />

to where the sun was<br />

in the photo.<br />

Building the<br />

composition<br />

In this step, I added<br />

the rest of the trees,<br />

using a brush and the<br />

appropriate settings.<br />

I created flying pollen<br />

to show that the<br />

paradise is beginning<br />

to recover.<br />

Adjustments<br />

The last step<br />

was to adjust the<br />

composition as<br />

a whole with the<br />

appropriate colour,<br />

which I did using<br />

Curves and Color<br />

Balance. I also added<br />

a light vignette.


9000<br />

9021

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