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Reaching into the past<br />

IN THE jungle of northern Tanzania, high in the<br />

Usambara mountains, stands a research centre<br />

frozen in time. The Amani Hill Research Station is<br />

a remnant of the country’s colonial past, founded<br />

under German rule in 1902 and brought to renown<br />

by British scientists in the mid-20th century.<br />

After the second world war, the scientific<br />

station became famous for its malaria research.<br />

Today, that legacy is forgotten.<br />

The nearly abandoned lab is now tended to<br />

by John Mganga, a 67-year-old retired assistant,<br />

seen here tidying a shelf. Mganga also keeps<br />

up the entomological collection (below) with<br />

butterflies and other insects caught in the<br />

surrounding national park. The Usambara<br />

mountains are legendary for their biodiversity,<br />

which is on display in the Amani collections.<br />

Although the lab sees few visitors, 34 staff<br />

remain to look after the space.<br />

Since the 1970s, the laboratory has remained<br />

largely unchanged, left with the instruments<br />

and specimens of an era gone by.<br />

Russian photographer Evgenia Arbugaeva<br />

visited the lab – her first trip to Africa – after<br />

anthropologists at the University of Oslo, Norway,<br />

told her about their work studying postcolonial<br />

scientific stations. Chelsea Whyte<br />

Photographer<br />

© Evgenia Arbugaeva, from the series<br />

Amani, 2015<br />

Courtesy of The Photographers’ Gallery<br />

<strong>27</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | <strong>New</strong><strong>Scientist</strong> | <strong>27</strong>

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