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HERCANBERRA.COM.AU<br />

Helsinki<br />

Oh how I love this city. Even the<br />

Finnair flight has me smitten<br />

(thanks to Marimekko blankets<br />

and champagne served in Iittala’s<br />

Ultima Thule glasswear).<br />

While we arrive in “summer”<br />

there is a stiff ocean breeze that<br />

sends us rummaging through our<br />

luggage for our Canberra winter<br />

jackets. After all, you are flying just<br />

about as far north on the globe as<br />

you can—next stop Arctic Circle.<br />

The cobbled streets of Helsinki are<br />

pristine, and reflect the incredible<br />

midnight sun (yes, that’s right, in<br />

summer it doesn’t get dark until<br />

about 2am and the sun rises<br />

again at 4am).<br />

STAY<br />

We choose to stay in a prison. That<br />

may sound less than hospitable but<br />

the Hotel Katajanokka has been<br />

beautifully reconditioned since it<br />

started taking inmates in 1837.<br />

HOTEL KATAJANOKKA<br />

Merikasarminkatu 1, 00160 Helsinki<br />

hotelkatajanokka.fi/en/<br />

EAT<br />

The season of white nights<br />

signals a time for Helsinki-ites<br />

to either get out of the city or<br />

eat out, so it can be difficult<br />

getting a table in some places.<br />

For health and environmentally<br />

conscious travellers Helsinki is a<br />

dream—organic, locally-grown<br />

and sustainable food is sold with<br />

passion and food and packaging<br />

waste is suitably frowned upon<br />

(you won’t see Finns wandering<br />

around toting takeaway coffees).<br />

For something really ridiculous, we<br />

try a Viking restaurant Ravintola<br />

Harald. The two meat-eaters<br />

among us (that would be father<br />

and son, not to name names)<br />

shock the other half of the family by<br />

ordering both beaver and reindeer<br />

in one meal. And they eat it.<br />

RAVINTOLA HARALD<br />

Citykäytävä, Aleksanterinkatu<br />

21, 00100 Helsinki | ravintolaharald.fi<br />

PLAY<br />

The prison—sorry, hotel—is a short<br />

stroll from the waterfront of the<br />

South Harbour. There is much to do<br />

at this end of the city, from catching<br />

the views in the massive London<br />

Eye-style Ferris wheel to sipping a<br />

coffee or cocktail by the freezing<br />

open-air pools (dear God, these<br />

Finns are made of stern stuff), and<br />

a large handicraft market heavy<br />

in reindeer products is open each<br />

day, drawing constant crowds.<br />

Of course, now would be a brilliant<br />

time to visit some of the numerous<br />

excellent galleries displaying some<br />

of that unspeakably cool Finnish<br />

design aesthetic. But our stay falls<br />

over a Monday and alas, every<br />

gallery and the Design District is<br />

shut. We determine to come back for<br />

further adventures. Just not in winter.<br />

Next stop Spain.<br />

PAGE 92

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