Viva Brighton Issue #56 October 2017

No Move - No Fee
CoNveyaNCiNg
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ON THE BUSES #30:
MARIE ANTONIN CARÊME (Routes 5 & 5A)
From 1816 to 1817, The Royal Pavilion’s Great
Kitchen was graced by the presence of famed
French chef Marie Antonin Carême.
Born in Paris in the late eighteenth century
and abandoned aged eight during the French
Revolution, Carême cut his teeth in the food
trade as a kitchen boy in a chop house. In 1798, he
became an apprentice to patissier Sylvain Bailly, who
recognised Carême’s flair for cooking, becoming a
mentor to the boy. Inspired, Carême left his master
and set up his own shop, the Patisserie de la Rue de
la Paix, which he ran until 1813.
Carême was known for his ‘pièces montées’, fruits
and cakes stacked vertiginously high to make for
elaborate centrepieces – some of which stood over
four feet high and up to six feet across. ‘Pastry,’ he
once said, ‘is the highest form of architecture’. In a
prolific career, Carême
fed both Emperor
Napoleon and the Tsar
of Russia. He is often
held responsible for the creation of the white
chef’s hat.
The Prince Regent benefitted from Carême’s
presence, if a little too much. ‘Carême,’ George
whined, ‘You will make me eat myself to death. I
want to eat everything you place under my nose, it
is all too tempting.’ Indeed, when the Grand Duke
Nicholas of Russia visited the Pavilion, the menu
boasted 36 mains and 32 side dishes.
Carême left Brighton, exasperated by the fog and
the smog. He died on January 12th, 1833, aged 49.
His untimely death has been attributed to years of
working over a coal-fuelled stove. Saskia Solomon
Illustration by Joda (@jonydaga)
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