Viva Brighton Issue #56 October 2017

VIVA
B R I G H T O N
#56. OCT 2017
EDITORIAL
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When did Brighton become an epicentre for
the epicurean? I guess it started with Marie-
Antonin Carême, whose epic banquets at the
Pavilion put the current trend for ten-course
tasting menus in the shade. On the 18th
of January 1817, he sent to the table eight
soups, eight removes of fish, forty entrées,
platters after the fish, eight great pieces, eight
centrepieces patisserie, eight roasts, thirty-two
desserts and savoury entremets and twelve great
rounds. Pity the pot washer.
But the food scene hasn’t always been so
celebrated. Eating out in Brighton in the
(19)80s meant pizza from Pie in the Sky in
Preston Street or, if you wanted a steak, you
could go across the road to the Aberdeen
Steak House (and you still can). Now people
are raising Wagyu beef in West Sussex and a
growing stable of celebrated chefs are cooking
up modern-British banquets of their own.
Maybe the city’s food scene has come full circle.
So in this ‘feast’ issue we meet some of the
taste makers and take a look behind their
kitchen doors. We prepare to welcome food
royalty (Yotam Ottolenghi is in town; lock up
your tahini). We meet people cooking dinner
for neighbours in need, and others feeding
displaced people far from home. People who
write about food, blog about food, and one man
who reckons that edible insects might one day
be as popular as sushi.
Gulp.