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FOOD FILE Riding the How the sustainable-seafood movement is attracting new disciples STORY BY CHRIS POWELL 16 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER 2017 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM
n July 22, 1992, as disgruntled fisherman tried unsuccessfully to barge into the St. John’s hotel room where Canada’s then Federal Fisheries Minister John Crosbie was speaking, he announced the unthinkable: a moratorium on the fishing of Northern cod. Years later, Crosbie would describe the decision, which put an estimated 40,000 people in Atlantic Canada out of work, the hardest of his political career. Northern cod had sustained Newfoundlanders for nearly 500 years; when the English explorer John Cabot discovered the North American coast in 1497, he is reported to have said the fish on the Grand Banks were so abundant they slowed his ship. But human ingenuity has a way of rendering even the unthinkable possible. The introduction of new and improved fish-finding technologies, as well as factory freezer trawlers capable of spending months at sea, helped make the cod-fishing industry ruthlessly efficient. Boats from Canada — not to mention Spain, Portugal, Russia and other countries — pulled a record 810,000 tonnes of ground fish (a group that includes cod, flounder, halibut and sole) from the frigid waters of the North Atlantic in 1968. Nobody knew it at the time, but it was the beginning of the end. The annual harvest would decline steadily over the next decade, with the harvestable biomass of Northern cod alone JONATHAN BIELASKI THE ART OF SUSTAINABILITY Langdon Hall’s warm scallops with sorrel, hogweed and apple; Ocean Wise-certified mussels (right) NOVEMBER 2017 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 17
Page 1 and 2: SUSTAINABLY SPEAKING Responsible se
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