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Jeweller - December Issue 2017

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Brands do not appear from nothing,<br />

especially when appearing in different<br />

parts of the world simultaneously, and their<br />

appearance reflects market tendencies.<br />

In this case, we can speak about the<br />

much higher growth of prices for wellpolished<br />

gemstones in comparison with<br />

commercially-faceted gemstones. When<br />

this price difference exceeds the cost of<br />

rough losses as a result of high-quality<br />

polishing then faceting becomes profitable.<br />

All gemstone market participants know<br />

that it is becoming more difficult to sell<br />

commercially-faceted gemstones – badly<br />

polished, to put it bluntly – and often it is<br />

becoming necessary to recut ‘barrel-shaped’<br />

gemstones that have a bulgy pavilion.<br />

You may hear the following opinion: if a<br />

gemstone is precise, symmetrical, perfect,<br />

it becomes faceless and that some small<br />

defects are necessary to bring the charm of<br />

peculiarity to a gemstone. I consider that<br />

the originality of a gemstone is a<br />

combination of material, colour, clarity,<br />

size, polishing and optical characteristics…<br />

but defects? No way. It is hard to consider<br />

a face with a squinting eye or a droopy<br />

nose charming. These are excuses for those<br />

who don’t want or cannot make highquality<br />

gemstones and those for whom it is<br />

convenient to use what the market offers.<br />

ADVANTAGES OF FACETING PROPERLY<br />

No matter how convenient it is for dealers<br />

and jewellery manufacturers to use outdated<br />

standards to justify low-quality faceting,<br />

higher prices are demanded for the bestquality<br />

faceting and there are always buyers<br />

who are ready to pay more.<br />

So what is the value of high-quality cutting?<br />

First of all, high-quality gem cutting ensures<br />

the perfect flatness of facet surfaces that<br />

increase a gemstone’s ‘fire’ due to virtual<br />

prisms formed by the facets. I have actually<br />

observed good fire even in pieces of quartz<br />

if they are faceted with high quality.<br />

Fire produces inimitable sparkle – light<br />

patches of colour different from the<br />

main colour of a gemstone – and is one<br />

of the most considerable advantages of a<br />

faceted gemstone.<br />

The second advantage that is directly bound<br />

with the first one is sharp edges between<br />

facets. When edges such as a knife blade<br />

don’t reflect light, the gemstone looks ‘wet’<br />

– each facet reflects light in its own way and<br />

the shining edges don’t attract attention.<br />

Thirdly, strict symmetry makes a gemstone<br />

more harmonious and pleasant to view.<br />

One gemstone amateur expressed it thusly,<br />

“I buy beautiful gemstones to admire and<br />

enjoy them but when I notice inaccuracy<br />

instead of happy contact with the gem,<br />

I think to myself, ‘How could a negligent<br />

gem-cutter spoil such beauty?’”<br />

Fourthly, the main colour of the gemstone<br />

is better seen when there is no window in<br />

it as the background doesn’t interfere with<br />

the perception. Finally, the fifth advantage,<br />

which may influence gemmological<br />

characteristics together with the fourth one,<br />

is the absence of a grey compound of colour<br />

appearing when light diffracts on surface<br />

defects. This factor may increase visible<br />

colour saturation up to one grade on the<br />

Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale.<br />

IMAGE COURTESY: DMITRY STOLYAREVICH<br />

IMAGE COURTESY: SERGEY PRYANECHNIKOV

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