Jeweller - December Issue 2017

GEMSTONE FACETING
faceting. I will not explain the existing cut-grading systems as readers
may know them even better than me but I would like to identify
the main principle common to all of them: cut-grading systems are
based on comparing items with certain characteristics accepted
as standard to find deviations from the norm. Such characteristics
include gemstone shape, proportions, symmetry and finish. The
possible variety of faceting designs provided by the shape of the
crystal or the creativity of the cutter are not taken into consideration.
If we speak about unique faceting designs that have nothing to
do with standard forms, another approach is needed to evaluate
the quality of gem cutting. Let’s look at an example to understand
this better.
Some readers may be already familiar with the trend of gemcutting
in which I took my first steps: ‘Philosophical stone’. Its
essence is developing special, unusual faceting designs followed
by explanations that become the bearers of philosophical ideas,
creating a row of associations in the consciousness. A gemstone
contains one or several symbols in its pattern, either in graphical or
numerological format. These symbols provide the ‘key’ for opening
the row of associations.
There is a pattern in the ‘Drop of Compassion’ gemstone (See image
below). It has the shape of a wide drop limited by spirals of the
golden section from both sides. At the bottom of the gemstone,
there is a triangle showing the way to the infinity, a point where
the selfishness of a man disappears in the Great Compassion to all
beings. Rays coming from all sides to this point support the optical
perspective. From above, three descending arches symbolise three
stages that a man who has chosen this way should come through
one by one. These stages are common for all devotees of spirit:
Cognising, Renunciation and Transformation. This is the way of
Christ, the way of Buddha, the way of all teachers of humanity.
We can talk more about philosophy but now let’s turn to evaluation
of faceting quality by the GIA grading system. Having the
qualification of GG – GIA Graduate Gemologist – I’ve attempted to
do this myself. There are three criteria – brilliance, proportion and
finish – and everything is clear with two of them. We’ll examine
the most complicated one, consisting of numerous sub-criteria
(proportions). The shape of the Drop of Compassion resembles
CITRINE ‘DROP OF COMPASSION’.
IMAGE COURTESY: DMITRY
STOLYAREVICH
SAMPLE OF MARKING BY
PLASMAMARK TECHNOLOGY. IMAGE
COURTESY: SERGEY PRYANECHNIKOV
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