Caribbean Beat — January/February 2017 (#143)
A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.
A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.
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Under the water<br />
Altin Osmanaj / shutterstock.com<br />
On the water<br />
Water babies and watersports fanatics will find no shortage of<br />
activities to take on in Tobago, especially at this time of year.<br />
The dry season means cooler, drier weather with bright blue<br />
skies and strong breezes <strong>—</strong> manna from heaven for those into<br />
wind sports like windsurfing and kitesurfing. Sailing enthusiasts<br />
also have the Tobago Carnival Regatta to look forward to in<br />
mid-<strong>February</strong> <strong>—</strong> that is, if they wouldn’t prefer to cruise up the<br />
leeward coast on a catamaran like the Island Girl. In addition<br />
to being relaxing and decadent, those sailing tours make stops<br />
at stunning beaches like Cotton Bay that are only (or mostly)<br />
accessible by sea.<br />
But that’s not all there is: we’re talking an extravaganza of<br />
kayaking, kiteboarding, paddleboarding, snorkelling, stand-uppaddling,<br />
and surfing. Even if you’ve never tried any of these<br />
before, but they sound like a blast, this is a perfect time to learn,<br />
as lessons are also readily available.<br />
If you happen to be on the island around the new moon, there’s<br />
one special experience you’ll want to consider. Conditions then<br />
will be perfect for you to do a bioluminescence tour in Bon<br />
Accord Lagoon. Phytoplankton in the water emit flashes of light<br />
to produce a bluish glow as you paddle through on your board or<br />
kayak. Stand Up Paddle offer tours.<br />
And while it doesn’t involve a watersport <strong>—</strong> apart from<br />
swimming and snorkelling <strong>—</strong> those who love the water and<br />
coral reefs will want to make sure they get up north to Speyside.<br />
Glass-bottom boat tours out to Angel Reef depart at least once<br />
a day from Batteaux Bay, and there are also tours to the birding<br />
paradise of Little Tobago island. Angel Reef is perhaps the most<br />
abundant of the island’s many offshore reef systems, so a mustsee<br />
for those who’d like to get a look at Tobago’s rich marine<br />
ecosystem.<br />
Ever wanted to learn to dive? Or perhaps<br />
you’ve already learned, and have been<br />
meaning to upgrade your certification?<br />
Then Tobago is the perfect holiday<br />
location for you, with some of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best dive sites. And that’s<br />
no hyperbole. The island’s nutrient-rich<br />
waters nurture an abundance of diverse<br />
aquatic life in offshore reef systems and<br />
strategically sunk shipwrecks. A few<br />
hundred species of coral <strong>—</strong> including<br />
what’s reported to be the largest living<br />
brain coral in the world <strong>—</strong> plus reef<br />
fish, manta rays, and sharks are among<br />
the main draws. Off Speyside, in the<br />
northeast, this is also the time of year<br />
when you might be lucky enough to spot<br />
an elusive whale shark. But whatever<br />
your level of ability, there’s a range of dive<br />
experiences to suit you. If you’re ready<br />
to take the plunge, make contact with a<br />
PADI/SSI-certified diver operator through the Association of<br />
Tobago Dive Operators (ATDO).<br />
Falling water<br />
Two of Tobago’s tallest and most dramatic waterfalls are Argyle<br />
(near Roxborough), and Highland (near Mason Hall). There’s<br />
a gentle hike to Argyle, the taller and more visited of the two,<br />
but what you save in strength en route can be spent climbing<br />
to the top of the falls’ three tiers, some 450 feet high. Your<br />
reward, other than bragging rights? Three levels also means<br />
three refreshing pools to enjoy on the way back down. The trek<br />
to Highland waterfall is more challenging, but equally worth<br />
it. Highland is also a good option for those who love roads less<br />
travelled, as you’re unlikely to find many other visitors. So:<br />
here’s to all-natural, high-intensity waterfall massage jets.<br />
Black Rock<br />
Buccoo Reef<br />
Pigeon Point<br />
Store Bay<br />
Crown Point<br />
Charlotteville<br />
TOBAGO<br />
Scarborough<br />
Little Tobago<br />
Speyside<br />
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