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Caribbean Beat — January/February 2017 (#143)

A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.

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Under the water<br />

Altin Osmanaj / shutterstock.com<br />

On the water<br />

Water babies and watersports fanatics will find no shortage of<br />

activities to take on in Tobago, especially at this time of year.<br />

The dry season means cooler, drier weather with bright blue<br />

skies and strong breezes <strong>—</strong> manna from heaven for those into<br />

wind sports like windsurfing and kitesurfing. Sailing enthusiasts<br />

also have the Tobago Carnival Regatta to look forward to in<br />

mid-<strong>February</strong> <strong>—</strong> that is, if they wouldn’t prefer to cruise up the<br />

leeward coast on a catamaran like the Island Girl. In addition<br />

to being relaxing and decadent, those sailing tours make stops<br />

at stunning beaches like Cotton Bay that are only (or mostly)<br />

accessible by sea.<br />

But that’s not all there is: we’re talking an extravaganza of<br />

kayaking, kiteboarding, paddleboarding, snorkelling, stand-uppaddling,<br />

and surfing. Even if you’ve never tried any of these<br />

before, but they sound like a blast, this is a perfect time to learn,<br />

as lessons are also readily available.<br />

If you happen to be on the island around the new moon, there’s<br />

one special experience you’ll want to consider. Conditions then<br />

will be perfect for you to do a bioluminescence tour in Bon<br />

Accord Lagoon. Phytoplankton in the water emit flashes of light<br />

to produce a bluish glow as you paddle through on your board or<br />

kayak. Stand Up Paddle offer tours.<br />

And while it doesn’t involve a watersport <strong>—</strong> apart from<br />

swimming and snorkelling <strong>—</strong> those who love the water and<br />

coral reefs will want to make sure they get up north to Speyside.<br />

Glass-bottom boat tours out to Angel Reef depart at least once<br />

a day from Batteaux Bay, and there are also tours to the birding<br />

paradise of Little Tobago island. Angel Reef is perhaps the most<br />

abundant of the island’s many offshore reef systems, so a mustsee<br />

for those who’d like to get a look at Tobago’s rich marine<br />

ecosystem.<br />

Ever wanted to learn to dive? Or perhaps<br />

you’ve already learned, and have been<br />

meaning to upgrade your certification?<br />

Then Tobago is the perfect holiday<br />

location for you, with some of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best dive sites. And that’s<br />

no hyperbole. The island’s nutrient-rich<br />

waters nurture an abundance of diverse<br />

aquatic life in offshore reef systems and<br />

strategically sunk shipwrecks. A few<br />

hundred species of coral <strong>—</strong> including<br />

what’s reported to be the largest living<br />

brain coral in the world <strong>—</strong> plus reef<br />

fish, manta rays, and sharks are among<br />

the main draws. Off Speyside, in the<br />

northeast, this is also the time of year<br />

when you might be lucky enough to spot<br />

an elusive whale shark. But whatever<br />

your level of ability, there’s a range of dive<br />

experiences to suit you. If you’re ready<br />

to take the plunge, make contact with a<br />

PADI/SSI-certified diver operator through the Association of<br />

Tobago Dive Operators (ATDO).<br />

Falling water<br />

Two of Tobago’s tallest and most dramatic waterfalls are Argyle<br />

(near Roxborough), and Highland (near Mason Hall). There’s<br />

a gentle hike to Argyle, the taller and more visited of the two,<br />

but what you save in strength en route can be spent climbing<br />

to the top of the falls’ three tiers, some 450 feet high. Your<br />

reward, other than bragging rights? Three levels also means<br />

three refreshing pools to enjoy on the way back down. The trek<br />

to Highland waterfall is more challenging, but equally worth<br />

it. Highland is also a good option for those who love roads less<br />

travelled, as you’re unlikely to find many other visitors. So:<br />

here’s to all-natural, high-intensity waterfall massage jets.<br />

Black Rock<br />

Buccoo Reef<br />

Pigeon Point<br />

Store Bay<br />

Crown Point<br />

Charlotteville<br />

TOBAGO<br />

Scarborough<br />

Little Tobago<br />

Speyside<br />

82 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM

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