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Selwyn Times: May 23, 2017

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SELWYN TIMES Latest Christchurch news at www. .kiwi<br />

Tuesday <strong>May</strong> <strong>23</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 21<br />

good garlic<br />

WHEN TO PLANT IT?<br />

Books and websites keep<br />

copying each other and chant the<br />

meaningless mantra of ‘plant on<br />

the shortest day and harvest on<br />

the longest!’ Don’t they realise<br />

that our garden soil is at its<br />

coldest in July and August? Why<br />

submit rootless and vulnerable<br />

cloves to that challenge by<br />

planting in June?<br />

I wanted to find out what the<br />

professionals do so I phoned<br />

John Murphy of Phoenex Garlic<br />

in Marlborough, for advice. His<br />

first words were “I ignore that<br />

shortest-day advice.” Well, that<br />

was a good start! He plants his in<br />

August or early September – to<br />

get bulbs of an even shape and<br />

good appearance. They may be<br />

a little smaller at harvest but the<br />

market cares more about shape<br />

and appearance.<br />

For home gardeners, he<br />

recommends July. I asked<br />

about varieties – I have never<br />

seen a garlic label giving this<br />

information. John said he<br />

grows ‘Printanor’ (derived from<br />

the French word ‘printemps’,<br />

meaning spring; there’s another<br />

clue as to planting time). He<br />

also grows ‘Presto’, which goes<br />

in around July. In Canterbury,<br />

and further south, late July or<br />

early August would not be too<br />

late.<br />

HOW TO PLANT IT?<br />

I do something which I think<br />

John does not do. I dig a shallow<br />

trench where my garlic is due to<br />

be planted, put some compost in<br />

the trench (I use the cheap stuff<br />

which comes in 25kg bags from<br />

megastores; I paid only $3.80/<br />

bag a few weeks ago), mix the<br />

extracted soil into it within the<br />

trench.<br />

Add some wood ash or bought<br />

potash fertiliser. You will then<br />

have a mound of friable, noncompacted<br />

planting medium in<br />

which to press the cloves so they<br />

are buried at twice their length.<br />

HOW TO GROW IT<br />

First, don’t over-water. If you<br />

do, onion white rot may clobber<br />

your plants. Early yellowing of<br />

the leaves, before the bulbs are<br />

anywhere near the right size, is a<br />

tell-tale sign that something’s up.<br />

Some gardeners dip the cloves<br />

before planting in kitchen bleach<br />

(I suggest a five per cent solution<br />

but it’s a bit of a gamble). This<br />

is supposed to kill the white-rot<br />

spores.<br />

Definitely do not grow your<br />

garlic in the same place as in<br />

previous years – white rot spores<br />

persist in the soil for ages.<br />

So, minimise the threats to<br />

your having a great garlic crop<br />

each year and look forward to<br />

a mildly-garlicky mayonnaise,<br />

stuffed and grilled half-shell<br />

mussels or a garlic chicken<br />

casserole.<br />

WHAT YOU NEED TO<br />

KNOW<br />

When to sow<br />

Plant the single cloves (not<br />

the whole bulb!) in late<br />

winter/early spring.<br />

Where to plant<br />

Full sun, in a slightly raised<br />

bed, for drainage.<br />

Plant spacing<br />

15cm apart.<br />

Time to maturity<br />

Around seven months.<br />

Where to buy<br />

A good garden centre or<br />

a farmers’ market or use a<br />

few good bulbs left over<br />

from the previous season’s<br />

crop.<br />

SYSTEMATIC: Dig a shallow trench and mix in some compost,<br />

along with wood ash or potash fertiliser, before pressing in the<br />

garlic cloves so they are buried at twice their depth.<br />

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