CosBeauty Magazine #80

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Feature skin no nos Are your products free from potentially toxic or questionable ingredients? Cosmetic chemist and Synergie Skin founder Terri Vinson outlines the elements to AVoid in skincare and cosmetics. 32 www.cosbeauty.com.au
The skin is the largest organ of the body. It is also the only organ that is constantly in contact with both the internal environment of the body and the external environment with all its aggressors, solar damage and pollutants. Our skin is able to defend against external environmental aggression, regulate body temperature, eliminate toxins, mount immune defences and absorb nutrients. Whilst our skin is an excellent absorber – there are some exciting medical trials on the treatment of Alzheimer’s with skin patches impregnated with medication that can reach the brain via the skin – recent EPA tests concluded that ingredients in personal care products may affect hormonal balance over time. Further studies show that women absorb over three kilograms of chemicals from cosmetics and toiletries annually – some good, some bad and some ugly! The terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ are often overused, misrepresented and applied too loosely in the cosmetic industry. Natural is not necessarily best. It is important to understand the concept of ‘natural’ in our industry and realise that natural ingredients can also be harmful, irritating and even toxic. Arsenic, for example, is 100 per cent natural but less than 1/8th of a teaspoon can be fatal. Whilst there is much fear mongering, we should be aware of many undesirable ingredients that are added to our skincare products and be aware of the safer alternatives that are available. Applying products with questionable ingredients may be safe in the short term and may not cause serious effects on all consumers, however long term repeated exposure to certain chemicals may have negative side effects so it is important that consumers are given the information to make informed choices about their personal care products. Effective skincare should: • generate positive change in the skin • penetrate the skin for optimal delivery • be cosmetically elegant to use for the consumer • be safe for use and free of potentially toxic or questionable ingredients Feature As a formulator, what I don’t include in my product is often as important as what do include. I have my own checklist of what I refer to as ‘questionable ingredients’. These are chemical additives that I believe can be harmful to cells when allowed to accumulate over time. The following ingredients should be avoided in cosmetic products: Paraben preservatives Dr Phillipa Dubre published in the Journal of Toxicology a study concluding that 90 per cent of women with breast cancer had paraben preservatives in the tumour tissue and this ingredient may disrupt hormone function. Whilst using parabens may not harm all users, there are currently many safer preservative options with a high safety profile. Artificial colour (FD&C dyes) Synthetic colours are derived from petroleum and may contain lead and heavy metal salts. These particles are small enough to absorb into the skin and can result in irritation and cell damage if used for extended periods. Although more limiting in the colours produced, natural iron oxides and micas are more desirable colour alternatives. Artificial fragrance These ingredients comprise one of the major causes of skin sensitivity and allergy. Common symptoms can include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, coughing, and skin irritation. Clinical data suggests that synthetic fragrance can also affect the central nervous system, causing cognitive changes such as depression and irritability. Pure essential oils are an excellent alternative to artificial fragrance, without the harmful side effects. Phthalates Phthalates are used as fragrance enhancers, solvents and flexible film former. This ingredient has been linked to hormone disruption and Dibutyl phthalate is banned from use in Europe. It is not mandatory to list phthalates on labels as part of artificial fragrance ingredients. Pure essential oils do not require phthalates to enhance their aroma. www.cosbeauty.com.au 33
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CosBeauty Magazine #80

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