CosBeauty Magazine #80

Feature
SLS and other foaming
sulfates
SLS is considered the benchmark of irritation in many
cosmetic safety tests and is used in over 80 per cent of
foaming products in our industry. Young eyes (children
using liquid wash daily) may be exposed to damage to eye
proteins from SLS during development. Using a number of
milder foaming agents in combination is less irritating for
the consumer.
PEG (Polyethylene glycol)
This ingredient acts as a skin lubricant, penetration
enhancer and emulsifier. It is a petroleum derived
ingredient that can cause irritation and reduce the ability
of the skin to retain moisture. By disrupting the barrier,
it makes the skin more susceptible to infection and
more prone to ageing. There are many naturally derived
alternatives available to formulators who prefer a less
irritating option.
Propylene glycol
A petroleum derived solvent, thinner, humectant
and ingredient used to increase penetration of other
ingredients which may also be undesirable, and has been
linked to irritation and long term accumulation. Glycerine
is a natural and safe alternative.
Isopropyl (SD-40) alcohol
This ingredient is a solvent and skin degreaser made
from propylene, a petroleum derivative. It can act as a
penetration enhancer of other harmful chemicals into your
skin and is fatal when ingested at a dose of 30 ml or less.
Grain derived alcohol is the best alternative but should
only be used in low concentrations as this can still be
drying for skin if overused.
DEA (diethanolamine), MEA
(Monoethanolamine) & TEA
(triethanolamine)
This ingredient is use in skincare as a pH controller and
foam enhancer in cleansers. This group of ingredients has
been linked to skin irritation and Dr Samuel Epstein has
discovered that with long term use DEA can result in cell
damage and possible mutations. Safer alternatives to adjust
pH include lactic acid, citric acid and sodium hydroxide in
very low concentrations.
Mineral Oil
This petroleum derived ingredient in its pure form is
not considered toxic to cells. However, inferior quality
petroleum by-products can contain harmful impurities
and heavy metals so it is important to obtain a pure
ingredient. Petrolatum is also an occlusive, which acts like
‘It is important to
understand the
concept of ‘natural’
in our industry and
realise that natural
ingredients can also
be harmful, irritating
and even toxic’
a plastic coating over the skin. This can prevent the skin
from eliminating toxins and impurities and functioning
normally. Occlusion is only recommended when the skin
surface is damaged or compromised due to laser, peels or
chemical peels and needs time to resurface. Ideal botanical
alternatives are carnauba wax, medical grade lanolin
and castor oil.
Chemically absorbing
sunscreens
Opt for mineral based sunscreens containing zinc oxide
over chemical absorbing (organic) sunscreens such as
Oxybenzone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Octyl
Methoxycinnamate. Zinc oxide, a physical sunscreen is
a naturally occurring mineral and offers broad spectrum
(UVA and UVB) protection whereas most chemical
sunscreens must be used in combination as they often only
offer either UVA or UVB protection. Furthermore, many
chemical sunscreens, due to their low molecular weight,
penetrate the skin surface and have been found in the
bloodstream hours after application. Chemical sunscreens
have been linked to photosensitivity, skin irritation and
may possibly influence hormone levels with long term
use. Zinc oxide on the other hand, exhibits anti irritant
benefits and does not penetrate the skin surface.
Don’t panic! Short term and occasional use of
questionable ingredients is not going to have a severe
impact on your health. However, long term repeated
exposure is not recommended and may cause cell damage
and imbalance. It’s often worth paying more for products
with a higher safety profile. Bottom line – always read the
ingredient labels, try to avoid questionable ingredients
where possible and know what’s in your products. CBM
34 www.cosbeauty.com.au