october-2018

30 / TRAVEL / Ethiopia
TRAVEL / 31
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Left: Simien Mountains, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
and national park; Right:
the House of St. George in
Lalibela
AS WE TOUCH down at Bole International Airport, I
notice two things: the tarmac smells of eucalyptus trees and
the airport Wi-Fi isn’t working (neither is my mobile Internet
service). Being a stereotypical millennial flying in from 4Gcovered
Nairobi, it’s a tough realisation that will define the
rest of our trip: from Addis Ababa to Lalibela and Gondar
to Bahir Dar, it will be a digital detox.
LA DOLCE VITA
Before travelling to the Amhara region, I start my journey in
Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa. After dropping off my luggage
at the Ethiopian/Dutch-owned Zeist Lodge, an oasis-like city
lodge – with a peaceful courtyard – it’s time for lunch. I head to
Addis Ababa Restaurant, which is a perfect spot to try injera,
the country’s national dish: a flatbread eaten with several kinds
of stew. After dinner, smoke from burning frankincense and
myrrh fills the circular building, indicating that the coffee’s
ready. The origin of coffee cultivation and consumption lies in
Ethiopia. Countless coffee bars still decorate the streets of
Addis Ababa, including the city’s “first coffee company”: To.
Mo.Ca., an abbreviation of the Italian words: Torrefazione
Moderna Café.
Ethiopia has never been colonised, despite two overthrow
attempts by Italy, whose cultural influence – born from the two
Italo-Ethiopian Wars (1895-1896 and 1935-1939) – is still very
much present. The city offers some great pizzerias, such as Club
Juventus, and even the supposedly largest market in Africa
bears an Italian name: Merkato; the perfect place to shop for
kitchenware, soccer shirts and spices. From Merkato, it’s a
short taxi ride to Piazza (Italian for “square”), one of the
most picturesque neighbourhoods in Addis Ababa. The area
is studded with great cafés: Dej. Jote Street is particularly
worthwhile. You can admire the city’s oldest hotel, Itegue
Taitu, and have a beer at the vivid Florida bar. And don’t
forget to check out the leather shops, evidence that Ethiopia
is home to the continent’s largest population of cattle. More
durable and high-end leather products can be bought at Zinaff,
ZAAF and Bermero (shoes).
Sporting a new Zinaff leather jacket, a pair of Bermero
suede boots and carrying a shipload of Tomoca coffee in my
suitcase, I travel north. From Addis, it’s a 680 km-long journey
to the city of Lalibela, known for its impressive monolithic
churches. The trip is best accomplished with the one-hour
flight. Lalibela has its fair share of nice hotels and homestays,
and my pick, Tukul Village, doesn’t disappoint. With rooms
overlooking one of the city’s striking rock-hewn churches, it
comes highly recommended. >
“Even the supposedly largest market in Africa,
bears an Italian name: Merkato”
Where to stay
Zeist Lodge
With spacious rooms located around
an old, walled family compound, this
is a perfect suburb accommodation
(close to the international airport).
Addis Ababa. zeistlodge.com
Tukul Village
This “village” of “traditional” tukul-style
buildings is located on one of Lalibela’s
surrounding hills.
Lalibela. tukulvillage.com
Lodge du Chateau
The rooms are situated around a small
garden, which leads up to an elevated
rooftop terrace, with hills on one side
and the famous castles on the other.
Gondar. lodgeduchateau.com
Lake Tana Hotel
Though this is one of Bahir Dar’s bigger
hotels, it still boasts quirky old-school
rooms, located right on the green
lakeside, surrounded by rich birdlife.
Bahir Dar.
Above (anti-clockwise
from top): View on
Addis Ababa; Ethiopian
woman, from the Simien
Mountains, carrying
some harvest home;
Debre Berhan Selassie
Church ceiling in Gondar
Right page: Fasilidas’
Pool: a sunken bathing
place surrounding
a small fortress in
Gondar (top); Mother
and daughter carrying
firewood in Lalibela
(bottom left); Baby
geladas are dependent
on their mothers for two
years (bottom right)
Michael Poliza, Philip Lee Harvey, Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images