68 KENYA A kiter seduced by the love islands
Michele greets me with a smile and offers me an iced pineapple juice. It’s perfect under this equatorial sun pounding, even though it is February. The guests have already arrived and gather for the briefing at the bar in front of the pool: they are still pale skin, a bit tired from the long journey but excited by the new experience. I tell them about the school, the class, I explain the equipment and invite them to get to the beach to try to steer the kite. Seven islands in the heart-shaped lagoon We pass a dense tropical garden with palm trees and fragrant bougainvillea and by a wooden ladder gain access to the beach: finally here they are, the famous Love Islands. The view on the large bay is something that takes your breath away. At this time there is low tide that shows, as an open casket, a huge expanse of coral reef with bright colors, emerald green, turquoise and intense blue. White sandy tongue alternate with small natural pools of calm water, clear and warm. In the background, at 500 meters from the waterline, there are seven small islands of different sizes that emerge from the sea like giant mushrooms, forming a sheltered lagoon. They are rocky ridges covered with lush vegetation that can be reached on foot by taking advantage of low water that reveals countless starfish, crabs, shells and tropical fish. They are called "Islands of Love" because during low tide the lagoon surrounding takes the form of a giant heart. The scenario is an absolute beauty, reminds of some beaches of Thailand or even better of Polynesia. Lessons and kite surfing on the reef waves I prepare the equipment for the lessons and the guests of the Seven Islands alternate to run the trainer, a small foil kite two cables. The wind is fresh, and the kite is very fast and responsive. The excitement of playing with the kite is strong, it is a bit like being a kid again, and time flies by between explanations, chatter and laughter under the curious gaze of beach boys, local guys who live on the beach trying to make a living selling a bit of everything. Some of them ask me to try and I agree identifying with them in their desire to have fun without thinking about shillings. It is coming at high tide and I decide to go into the water for a session. The typical wind of the winter season is the Kusi monsoon and also in this bay north of Watamu it comes from the North-North East, side on starboard tack. With the islands in front it seems to surf in a natural amphitheater of wonderful colors. As soon as you pass the islands the wind becomes stronger. I enjoy it for a while with the waves that form on the reef, then I return to the lagoon dodging the traditional wooden Dhow of the local fishermen willing to buoy. I admire the coastline from the water that after the Seven Islands on the right continues with the Temple Point Beach and then with that of Sun Palm Beach Hotel and Marijani, all rather chic facilities, surrounded by greenery and relaxed. The time for a few photos and I go back to the beach in ecstasy. Chill out in the magical oasis of PapaRemo I take the trainer and hold it in the air touring among the sunbeds and umbrellas on the hunt for potential aspiring kiters. Meeting Erika, a girl from Livorno, I ask her to try to pilot the kite. She replies: "It's no use, I can’t swim." "Ah, just like the Kenyans," I reply, explaining that here the locals fear the ocean and no one teaches children to swim. Even fishermen often barely hold afloat. As we talk she tells me that she left her job in sales in Italy and after a holiday, few months ago she decided to move here in Watamu. Now she runs a lodge renting it to tourists.