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THE TRAVELOG<br />
ASIA AFRICA EUROPE LATIN AMERICA NORTH AMERICA SOUTH PACIFIC MIDDLE EAST
WHY TRAVEL WITH KER & DOWNEY<br />
The heart of the matter when traveling with Ker &<br />
Downey is more than just traveling in luxury and<br />
style: it’s all about those little ineffable moments,<br />
beholding the beauty of the world the way you<br />
always imagined. These experiential moments<br />
— a breath of fresh mountain air, the rush of<br />
adrenaline, the peace of a calm beach, the taste of<br />
a new cuisine — whatever it may be for you, you’ll<br />
know it when you experience it. And it comes<br />
standard on every Ker & Downey journey.<br />
2 KER & DOWNEY
TAKING AIR TO NEW HEIGHTS<br />
When reserving your custom land arrangements<br />
with Ker & Downey, please ask about our<br />
incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with<br />
the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious<br />
journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain<br />
premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage<br />
where available and get the peace of mind of<br />
lenient cancellation policies.<br />
CARRIERS<br />
AIR FRANCE<br />
ALITALIA<br />
AMERICAN AIRLINES<br />
BRITISH AIRWAYS<br />
CATHAY PACIFIC<br />
DELTA<br />
EMIRATES<br />
KLM<br />
LATAM AIRLINES<br />
QATAR AIRWAYS<br />
ROYAL AIR MAROC<br />
SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS<br />
SINGAPORE AIRLINES<br />
TURKISH AIRWAYS<br />
VIRGIN ATLANTIC<br />
VIRGIN AUSTRALIA<br />
British Airways<br />
KER & DOWNEY 3
A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT<br />
There have been several studies in recent years on vacations and<br />
the effect they have on quality of life. There have even been studies<br />
on how the act of just planning a trip affects quality of life. Researchers<br />
are finding that people experience a significant boost in<br />
happiness during the planning stages of the trip because they are<br />
looking forward to the good times they’ll have and the break from<br />
the everyday routine.<br />
I know from my own experience, new surroundings and a few days<br />
away from the office do wonders for my mental state and overall<br />
happiness, clearing my head and giving me a chance to focus on<br />
other things.<br />
That’s the key — you actually have to take the vacation. You can’t just plan it. In this issue<br />
of <strong>QUEST</strong>, we’ve got tons of ideas for your next journey — whether you have three days, or<br />
three weeks.<br />
For those short on time, Haley Beham has you covered with exactly what to do in Guatemala<br />
with only 72 hours. For those who prefer to stay close to home, Katy Heerssen takes us on<br />
a grand tour of some the United States’ most iconic cities. And for those looking to travel a<br />
little farther, Rina Chandarana takes us on a journey to enchanting Seville and Granada.<br />
Our designers are no strangers to the ‘out of office’ message. In this issue, you’ll also find<br />
inspiration from their trips to Uganda, Botswana, Chile and Germany. Zimbabwe is undergoing<br />
a transformation as it strives to regain its status as a premier safari destination. A<br />
safari there should definitely be on your radar. While you’re planning for safari, boost your<br />
wildlife photography skills with detailed tips in the Guide section of <strong>QUEST</strong>.<br />
Don’t just plan the trip, take the journey. We’re here to help.<br />
Contact us at luxury@kerdowney.com.<br />
David Marek<br />
President<br />
4 KER & DOWNEY
WHAT'S NEW<br />
THE<br />
LATEST TRAVELS AND EXPERIENCES<br />
FROM OUR DESIGNERS<br />
TIFFANY DESALVO<br />
Where were you last?<br />
Slovenia<br />
What was your most amazing<br />
experience?<br />
Rafting the jade-colored Soca<br />
River and being surrounded<br />
by the beautiful mountain<br />
scenery. Dining at Hisa<br />
Franko after the adventure<br />
was a close second.<br />
What would you recommend<br />
from your trip?<br />
Visit the family-run wineries<br />
in the charming region of<br />
Goriska Barda. Book a suite<br />
at Vila Istra to watch the sunrise over Lake Bled<br />
while you sip your morning coffee.<br />
MJ ERACI<br />
Where were you last?<br />
Northern Kenya<br />
What was your most amazing<br />
experience?<br />
The helicopter flight in<br />
northern Laikipia had<br />
amazing views. We landed<br />
on a cliff for our sundowner.<br />
What would you recommend<br />
from your trip?<br />
Don’t get caught up in your<br />
phone or camera. Just watch,<br />
listen and observe. You’ll see<br />
amazing things.<br />
HOT TOPIC:<br />
IT’S CONGO TIME!<br />
An African safari is always a good idea, especially<br />
if it’s in the Republic of Congo. We’ve got three<br />
reasons why it should be on your travel radar.<br />
GORILLAS<br />
Take a trek in Odzala-Kokoua National Park in search of lowland<br />
gorillas. Watch the endangered species parade through the<br />
jungle and feel like the only person on Earth in this far-flung<br />
region of Africa.<br />
WILDLIFE<br />
Beyond the primates, there’s a magnificent range of animal life.<br />
Think toothy crocs, forest elephants and a pandemonium of<br />
African grey parrots that gather to bathe, sip water and swoop<br />
through the air in the open savannahs and swamps.<br />
Sleep amongst<br />
wildlife at<br />
Ngaga Camp.<br />
RAINFORESTS<br />
Thick and lush rainforests sprawl over 80 percent of the country,<br />
which makes it the second largest on the planet after the<br />
Amazon. The lungs of the world are pretty amazing, aren’t they?<br />
KER & DOWNEY 5
CONTENTS<br />
8<br />
GIVING BACK<br />
Travel that gives back<br />
across the globe<br />
10<br />
ARRIVALS<br />
Openings, revamps and<br />
the latest travel news<br />
18<br />
THE GUIDE<br />
Insider secrets of<br />
luxury travel<br />
96<br />
THE SHOT<br />
One memory captured<br />
by photographer<br />
Mark Edward Harris<br />
86<br />
JOURNEYS<br />
Top itineraries from<br />
Ker & Downey<br />
pg. 88<br />
87<br />
88<br />
90<br />
92<br />
94<br />
CULINARY JOURNEYS<br />
WELLNESS JOURNEYS<br />
ROMANCE/HONEYMOON<br />
ACTIVE/ADVENTURE<br />
LUXURY SAFARI
DESTINATIONS<br />
24<br />
EAST AFRICA<br />
30<br />
SOUTHERN AFRICA<br />
38<br />
NORTH AFRICA &<br />
MIDDLE EAST<br />
44<br />
ASIA<br />
50<br />
NORTH AMERICA<br />
FEATURES<br />
26<br />
UGANDA FOREVER<br />
32<br />
AFRICA’S SAFARI<br />
DARLING<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
40<br />
DESERT DREAMS<br />
EGYPT<br />
46<br />
OUTSIDE LANDS<br />
JAPAN<br />
52<br />
SOUTHERN COMFORT<br />
LOUISIANA, TENNESSEE<br />
AND KENTUCKY<br />
EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
MARTINE BURY<br />
COPY EDITORS<br />
ELIZABETH FRELS<br />
KATY HEERSSEN<br />
VANESSA NIVEN<br />
ART DIRECTION<br />
& DESIGN<br />
AMY WILLIS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
EDITORS<br />
NICKY BRANDON<br />
DAVID MAREK<br />
WRITERS<br />
HALEY BEHAM<br />
MARTINE BURY<br />
RINA CHANDARANA<br />
ELIZABETH FRELS<br />
KATY HEERSSEN<br />
PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
AUSTIN MANN<br />
MARK EDWARD HARRIS<br />
ON THE COVER:<br />
Swimming in a waterfall<br />
pool in Lihue, Kauai<br />
Credit: Hawaii Tourism<br />
Authority (HTA) /<br />
Tommy Lundberg<br />
56<br />
LATIN AMERICA<br />
66<br />
EUROPE<br />
NORTHERN & WESTERN<br />
74<br />
EUROPE<br />
EASTERN & SOUTHERN<br />
80<br />
SOUTH PACIFIC<br />
58<br />
QUICK TRIP<br />
GUATEMALA<br />
62<br />
SALT OF THE EARTH<br />
CHILE<br />
68<br />
GREAT UN-EXPECTATIONS<br />
GERMANY<br />
76<br />
SPANISH STEPS<br />
SPAIN<br />
82<br />
SOUTH PACIFIC ESCAPES<br />
TAHITI, MARQUESAS ISLANDS,<br />
NEW ZEALAND, EASTER<br />
ISLAND AND HAWAII<br />
LET’S<br />
CONNECT<br />
ON THE WEB<br />
kerdowney.com<br />
questkerdowney.com<br />
FACEBOOK<br />
facebook.com/<br />
KerandDowney<br />
TWITTER/<br />
INSTAGRAM<br />
@kerdowney<br />
PHONE<br />
800.423.4236<br />
+1.281.371.2500<br />
EMAIL<br />
luxury@kerdowney.com<br />
KER & DOWNEY 7
GIVING BACK<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
ECUADOR<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
When you travel with Ker & Downey, you become a force for<br />
good across the globe. These are some of the initiatives and<br />
partnerships we’re proud to support.<br />
EAST AFRICA<br />
WILDAID<br />
We encourage the mission of<br />
WildAid as a travel partner and<br />
a sponsor of stateside events.<br />
Recently WildAid partnered<br />
with the Mara Elephant Project,<br />
which protects Kenyan<br />
elephants at risk from poaching<br />
through collaring and monitoring.<br />
In Asia, WildAid continues<br />
campaigns to end the ivory<br />
trade by reducing the demand.<br />
ECUADOR<br />
Our clients traveling to South<br />
America support the Ker &<br />
Downey Education Fund at the<br />
Galo Plaza Lasso Foundation,<br />
which underwrites the foundation's<br />
library programs, three<br />
school scholarships and an<br />
annual summer camp for close<br />
to 60 kids in remote Andean<br />
communities. The organization<br />
provides aid — via education,<br />
conservation and community<br />
development projects — to underserved<br />
rural areas.<br />
Photos courtesy of Mara Elephant Project | Galo Plaza Lasso<br />
Foundation | AboutAsia Schools | David Marek | Grootbos<br />
Private Nature Reserve<br />
8 KER & DOWNEY
EAST AFRICA<br />
Ker & Downey is heading to Uganda<br />
to continue to provide thousands<br />
of Ugandans with malaria nets and<br />
medical care through Nets for Africa.<br />
Our company matches the donation<br />
for every net purchased, helping us<br />
stop the sting of mosquito bites.<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Having planted 385 trees since 2013 and another 600 on the<br />
way, the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve’s efforts make it<br />
easier to fill your lungs with fresh air. The Grootbos Foundation<br />
plants a tree for every Ker & Downey client going to<br />
South Africa, making this biodiverse region an easy choice<br />
for an eco-conscious traveler.<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
A portion of every custom Cambodia journey goes<br />
to ABOUTAsia, an organization providing muchneeded<br />
programs. So far, close to 53,000 children<br />
across 110 schools have received school supplies.<br />
Recently, our donations went directly to local<br />
libraries and funded life-sustaining water wells in<br />
local communities.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 9
ARRIVALS<br />
Openings, Revamps and the Latest Travel News<br />
SHIPWRECK LODGE, NAMIBIA<br />
With a striking minimalist design meant to evoke shipwrecked wooden boats, this modern marvel sits landlocked between two<br />
rivers in Skeleton Coast Park. Mingle with other guests on the wraparound deck for uninterrupted views across the sand. Roam<br />
the dunes and enjoy an evening sundowner on the stark coast, dotted with abandoned diamond mines, ghostly boats and seal<br />
colonies. Believe it or not, desert-adapted elephants and lions roam the hostile landscape too. It is a safari like no other.<br />
10 KER & DOWNEY<br />
BY RINA CHANDARANA & MARTINE BURY
AFRICA<br />
Photos courtesy of Shipwreck Lodge; Shawn van Eeden | Machaba | The Retreat | Singita<br />
LITTLE MACHABA, BOTSWANA<br />
This camp is vintage chic, channeling classic<br />
1950s style. Four luxury tents are connected<br />
by decks that meander through the trees.<br />
Game viewing is a cinch from your private<br />
tent overlooking a floodplain — a hot spot for<br />
elephants roaming through the golden grass.<br />
If you ever tire of walking safaris and gliding<br />
in mokoros (which we doubt), unwind even<br />
more by lounging near the pool or indulging<br />
with a massage and facial.<br />
THE RETREAT,<br />
RWANDA<br />
Eat a traditional meal<br />
with a Rwandan family,<br />
pick out colorful fabrics<br />
in the market or spend<br />
time with a farmer. This<br />
Kigali-based, 11-room<br />
property expertly eases<br />
guests into the groove<br />
of local living. Every<br />
design detail sticks to<br />
the ethos of “made in<br />
Rwanda,” from the<br />
furniture built with<br />
locally-sourced teak to<br />
farm-to-fork meals to<br />
strong Rwandan coffee.<br />
SINGITA PAMUSHANA, ZIMBABWE<br />
Following a top-to-bottom renovation by design<br />
team Cécile & Boyd, Singita’s classic lodge is open<br />
and takes African design to new heights with a<br />
muted palette, modern finishes and well-edited,<br />
global touches. Eight luxury suites — each boasting<br />
two en suite bedrooms — and one five-bedroom<br />
villa brim with local textures. Perched on a sandstone<br />
ridge overlooking the Malilangwe Dam, the<br />
lodge offers the best seat in the house, perfect for<br />
taking in the sights and sounds of birds and beasts<br />
of the surrounding private wildlife reserve.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 11
AFRICA<br />
MAPULA LODGE, BOTSWANA<br />
This blissfully uncrowded, nine-tented<br />
camp is enveloped by a world of glassy lagoons<br />
and palm-fringed islands. Elephants<br />
and hippos feel right at home in this remote<br />
corner of Botswana in the Okavango Delta’s<br />
northwest region. Having recently undergone<br />
a facelift, the camp is packed with<br />
character: chic brass lanterns, Malawi<br />
chairs, quirky elephant lamps and royal red<br />
rugs. Soak in the swimming pool just like<br />
the hippos do in the adjacent lagoon.<br />
BLUE SAFARI,<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
There are very few places<br />
left on earth that feel as<br />
pristine and untouched<br />
by mankind as these<br />
72 sparsely-populated<br />
coral islands dotting the<br />
furthest reaches of the<br />
Indian Ocean. Lucky<br />
for us, the Astove Coral<br />
House, Alphonse Island<br />
Lodge and Cosmoledo<br />
Eco Camp make it easy<br />
to feel like a castaway<br />
living luxe. Unwind<br />
in the spa, dive into<br />
the turquoise sea and<br />
dine on freshly-caught<br />
seafood alfresco in this<br />
faraway paradise.<br />
SOSSUS UNDER CANVAS, NAMIBIA<br />
A natural granite amphitheater protects eight spacious<br />
tents from the elements. Sustainable recycled<br />
materials blend beautifully into the earthy surroundings,<br />
while power is generated from the sun. The<br />
camp has the lowest environmental footprint of any<br />
in the country, which bolsters the preservation of the<br />
dramatic Great Namib Sand Sea — a haunting space<br />
where antelopes dash, kicking red dune powder into<br />
the air. Treading on silent, shifting sands and sleeping<br />
under the inky starlit sky is an experience you won't<br />
soon to forget.<br />
Photos courtesy of Blue Safari | Mapula Lodge | Sossus Under Canvas | The Ritz Carlton Residences | Belmond | Futangue Hotel & Spa<br />
12 KER & DOWNEY
AROUND THE WORLD<br />
THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES,<br />
WAIKIKI BEACH, HAWAII<br />
Stay awhile at Oahu’s first Ritz-Carlton resort,<br />
which has just completed a major expansion<br />
with the addition of swank Diamond Head<br />
Tower. Guests have the chance to truly live like<br />
a kama'aina (local) in residential-style accommodations,<br />
with the bonus of a world-class<br />
spa, Waikiki’s highest infinity pool and Sushi<br />
Sho — acclaimed Japanese sushi master Keiji<br />
Nakazawa’s private, 10-seat omakase-style<br />
eatery where the chef creates culinary treats<br />
just for you. Perfect for families with children<br />
who don’t want to sacrifice an ounce of luxury,<br />
custom orders can be placed with a highend<br />
grocery store, so snacks tailored to the<br />
needs of little ones are at your beck and call. In<br />
the heart of the action, dive into Waikiki’s famous<br />
beaches with views of Diamond Head or<br />
explore world-famous shops and restaurants.<br />
Venture out to the island’s legendary jewels<br />
like the North Shore or the wild, uncrowded<br />
west side where you can swim in natural pools,<br />
play in waterfalls, hike through jungles and<br />
experience rich Polynesian history.<br />
BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL,<br />
ENGLAND History and literary buffs<br />
will be delighted tracing the steps of Oscar<br />
Wilde and the kings of England — all<br />
esteemed guests of this lovingly restored,<br />
Queen Anne-style property. Standing<br />
proud between the fashionable Chelsea and<br />
Knightsbridge neighborhoods, the property’s<br />
54 rooms are dashing, tailored, intimate<br />
and complete with a fireplace, which is a<br />
nice, toasty treat on a drizzly London day.<br />
FUTANGUE HOTEL & SPA,<br />
CHILE If getting as far away as possible is<br />
your goal, then Chile’s Futangue Hotel & Spa is<br />
a natural choice. Colorful textiles and objects<br />
inspired by the Mapuche culture are visual additions,<br />
making you feel right at home in one<br />
of 26 rooms smack dab in the middle of northern<br />
Patagonia’s lakes, rainforests and volcanoes.<br />
Trek the day away and then succumb to<br />
utter relaxation in the spa.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 13
AROUND THE WORLD<br />
ROSEWOOD BANGKOK,<br />
THAILAND<br />
With so many superb properties to<br />
choose from in one of Asia’s most<br />
frenetic cities, the ultra-luxe Rosewood<br />
hotel is poised to be on every<br />
hot list for 2019. Comprised of two<br />
high-rise buildings shaped like a<br />
traditional hand gesture greeting, the<br />
new property symbolizes Thai hospitality.<br />
Plunge pools and large terraces<br />
are private retreats, away from the<br />
hustle and bustle of the fast-paced<br />
hub. Savor delicious meals in one of<br />
three restaurants and indulge with<br />
cocktails at the bar.<br />
SIX SENSES KRABEY<br />
ISLAND, CAMBODIA<br />
Cambodia’s siren call is<br />
beckoning us to its powdery<br />
sand beaches and crystalline<br />
seas. Dip into one of the 40<br />
standalone pool villas set on a<br />
30-acre private island paradise.<br />
Budding chefs can join a cooking<br />
class and learn how to whip<br />
up some delicious Indochineinspired<br />
cuisine. Detach from<br />
the world you left behind in the<br />
spa, focusing on Cambodian<br />
healing traditions.<br />
Photos courtesy of Bairro Alto Hotel | COMO Hotels and Resorts | Infinity Luxury Yacht | Six Senses | iStock | St. Regis<br />
INFINITY LUXURY<br />
YACHT, GALAPAGOS<br />
Set sail on a luxurious, 20-passenger<br />
yacht and explore the Galápagos<br />
Islands, a bucket list destination.<br />
Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows<br />
and private balconies open<br />
to exquisite views of the worldrenowned<br />
bio-diverse islands.<br />
Sea salty air brushes your skin as<br />
you dine al fresco. Hop offshore,<br />
channel your inner Darwin with a<br />
naturalist guide and behold a mindboggling<br />
array of unique wildlife<br />
in this pristine archipelago aboard<br />
one of the region's newest, most<br />
exclusive vessels.<br />
12 KER & DOWNEY
COMO UMA CANGUU, BALI<br />
COMO Hotels and Resorts makes a splash on Bali’s south coast with 52 rooms and suites that blend high design and flawless<br />
service with the relaxed attitude of a surf hotel. Guests can further make themselves at home in one of 55 additional oneand<br />
two-bedroom surfside residences plus 12 plush, three-bedroom penthouses. Situated along six miles of pristine coastline<br />
in the boho chic village of Canggu, the 2.2-acre spread is all about the beach. Take advantage of the hotel’s partnership<br />
with Tropicsurf, which offers expert-led surfing lessons for all levels, and find a few of the country’s famous surf breaks<br />
a stone’s throw from your accommodations. Sample menus of fresh fare made with ingredients sourced from the island’s<br />
farms, and don’t miss the unparalleled pampering and healing experience at COMO Shambhala Retreat.<br />
BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL, PORTUGAL<br />
All the cool kids hang out in Lisbon’s buzzy Bairro Alto<br />
neighborhood, home to this boutique property set to unveil<br />
its lengthy renovations this winter. Part of the overall<br />
reimagining by Pritzker-winning Portuguese architect<br />
Eduardo Souto de Moura, the addition of an 18th century<br />
building ups the room count to 87. Late night cocktails, a<br />
must-do, are sipped on the terrace facing the Tagus River.<br />
ST. REGIS, EGYPT<br />
On the banks of the Nile, the soon-to-open St. Regis will<br />
make a luxurious home base for exploring Egypt’s largest<br />
city, Cairo. Luxury touches abound, from distinctive papyrus<br />
garden murals and oriental-style rugs to pearl inlaid nightstands<br />
and marble bathrooms fit for a queen. Lounge with<br />
a Hibiscus Mary, the property’s take on the iconic St. Regis<br />
Bloody Mary, featuring an exotic hit of cumin and mint.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 15
ARRIVALS<br />
HOTSPOT:<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
By Haley Beham<br />
With over one-third of the country’s land designated<br />
as national parks and reserves, the landlocked nation<br />
just north of South Africa is as wild and varied as they<br />
come. From the life-giving waters of the Okavango<br />
Delta to the dry and arid Kalahari Desert, the landscape<br />
offers just as much diversity as the wildlife. It's<br />
no wonder the exclusive safari destination is one of<br />
the most popular in Africa.<br />
Elephants roaming the<br />
Okavango Delta<br />
MAKE A SPLASH<br />
Famous for its wildlife, Botswana adopted a low-volume tourism model over 30 years ago, ensuring the ecosystem<br />
thrives and remains pristine. The results are clearly seen in the untouched and relatively undeveloped wildlife destinations,<br />
offering a truly off the beaten path experience.<br />
The Okavango Delta is one of the last great wildernesses on earth, where an abundance of bird and animal species flourish.<br />
Here, you’ll find game viewing experiences like nowhere else in the world: trips through the delta in a mokoro canoe,<br />
motorboat safaris, private game drives in open 4x4 vehicles and walking safaris for the truly adventurous. Take in the<br />
waterworld from Kanana, a water camp that has developed a loyal following of travelers thanks to its mokoro safaris and<br />
incredible bird watching and fishing.<br />
16 KER & DOWNEY
Photos courtesy of iStock | Ker & Downey Botswana | Bana Ba Letsatsi<br />
GO WILD<br />
To the west of the Okavango Delta you’ll find the<br />
Moremi Game Reserve, widely regarded by safari<br />
lovers as one of the finest game viewing regions<br />
in all the world. Moremi is home to one of the<br />
largest concentrations of elephants on Earth.<br />
Base yourself within the reserve at Okuti, not<br />
only for its location and five-star amenities, but<br />
for the delightful staff who offer a spectacular<br />
safari experience from start to finish.<br />
The newly opened Dinaka welcomed their first<br />
guests in March. Located on the edge of the<br />
Central Kalahari Game Reserve in an exclusive<br />
private reserve, Dinaka is host to one of the most<br />
unique bio-diversities in southern Africa. Activities<br />
at Dinaka focus on exploring the vast Kalahari<br />
and its wildlife, and there’s a lot of it. Kalahari<br />
lions, brown hyena, oryx and over 200 species of<br />
birdlife, including the pale chanting goshawk and<br />
kori bustard, call the desert landscape home. At<br />
night, Dinaka’s sleep-out deck is one of the only<br />
places you can truly dream comfortably under<br />
the stars. Thanks to the dry climate, you don't<br />
even need a mosquito net.<br />
Okuti's mosasa<br />
along the river<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Don’t miss out on the Bushman experience at Dinaka. It is one of the most authentic<br />
interactions you’ll have on your whole safari. - Devon Chapman, Designer<br />
SAFARI WITH HEART<br />
Ker & Downey’s Desert to Delta Safari gives back to Bana<br />
Ba Letsatsi, a center in Maun, Botswana, that supports over<br />
250 at-risk orphaned children and youth. The center is a safe<br />
place for the children to receive counseling and education,<br />
but also provides for basic needs like food, clothing, medical<br />
attention and showers. Simply by traveling to Botswana and<br />
enjoying a luxury safari at Okuti, Kanana and Dinaka, you are<br />
making a direct impact on the lives of the children by keeping<br />
the doors open, the water running and the lights on.<br />
A child drinking fresh water at Bana Ba Letsatsi<br />
Simply by traveling to Botswana<br />
and enjoying a luxury safari at<br />
Okuti, Kanana and Dinaka, you<br />
are making a direct impact on the<br />
lives of the local children.<br />
OUR SUGGESTED ITINERARY:<br />
DESERT TO DELTA<br />
A BOTSWANA ADVENTURE<br />
10 DAYS / 9 NIGHTS THROUGH CENTRAL<br />
KALAHARI GAME RESERVE, MOREMI GAME<br />
RESERVE & OKAVANGO DELTA<br />
KER & DOWNEY 17
THE GUIDE<br />
Insider Secrets of Luxury Travel<br />
18 KER & DOWNEY<br />
BY MARTINE BURY
Photos courtesy of Mark Edward Harris<br />
PICTURE PERFECT<br />
How to Photograph Animals<br />
Award-winning photographer and <strong>QUEST</strong> contributor,<br />
Mark Edward Harris, has traveled to 98 countries and six<br />
continents, capturing images of elusive, wild creatures at<br />
their most serene and spontaneous. Here, he shares how to<br />
get the best photo, whatever your skills.<br />
<strong>QUEST</strong>: Where are the best places<br />
on Earth you’ve taken pictures of<br />
wildlife?<br />
Mark Edward Harris: Japan is fantastic<br />
for its red-crowned cranes in<br />
Hokkaido and snow monkeys in Nagano<br />
Prefecture in winter. Alaska is<br />
amazing for bears catching salmon<br />
trying to make their way upstream<br />
on the Brooks River in mid-summer.<br />
The Arctic and the area around<br />
Churchill are incredible for its Polar<br />
bears. Trekking to photograph gorillas<br />
in Rwanda is a very intense and<br />
rewarding experience because after<br />
a long hike you end up in extremely<br />
close proximity to these fellow great<br />
apes. Latin America offers everything<br />
from whales and other sea life<br />
around Baja to parrots in a giant<br />
sink hole near Bonito, Brazil. We are<br />
so fortunate to live on a planet with<br />
so much diversity. We just have to<br />
make sure that we take care of it to<br />
the best of our abilities.<br />
When traveling somewhere with the<br />
intention of photographing wildlife,<br />
which pieces of camera equipment<br />
are must-haves?<br />
Photographing wildlife is not as<br />
much about cameras as it is about<br />
lenses. The newest smart phones<br />
can take great panoramas and<br />
portraits in the right hands but are<br />
not the right tools for wildlife where<br />
extreme long lenses are the name of<br />
the game. It’s not uncommon to see<br />
pros and serious amateurs toting<br />
around 400mm to 600mm lenses.<br />
These lenses are huge in order to<br />
allow enough light in so that a shot<br />
can be taken without having to<br />
bump up the ISO to a very digital<br />
noise-inducing level.<br />
How do you capture an emotional<br />
quality in an up-close animal<br />
portrait?<br />
One of the main reasons for using<br />
extremely long lenses in wildlife<br />
photography is to capture an image<br />
of an animal in its native environment<br />
without disturbing it. If you<br />
can photograph their eyes, the<br />
viewers can glimpse into the window<br />
to the souls. That expression is<br />
not just reserved for humans. With<br />
fast lenses, meaning a lens that can<br />
open to a wide aperture such as<br />
f/2.8, we can focus our lenses on<br />
their eyes and let the background<br />
drop out of focus by using a shallow<br />
depth of field. This technique creates<br />
an image that helps us connect with<br />
the animal before our lens, at least<br />
on a visual level. The background<br />
in this technique is called “bokeh”<br />
— the quality of out of focusness.<br />
It comes from the Japanese word<br />
“boke.” Less expensive telephoto<br />
lenses do not maintain a wide<br />
enough aperture to get as powerful<br />
a bokeh as the top of the line fast<br />
lenses, but the reality is most people<br />
do not want to spend $8,000 on a<br />
lens that is heavy and cumbersome.<br />
It’s a balancing act, and there’s<br />
nothing wrong with someone opting<br />
to travel with a smaller lens that<br />
doesn’t break the bank or the back.<br />
“WE ARE SO<br />
FORTUNATE TO LIVE<br />
ON A PLANET WITH<br />
SO MUCH DIVERSITY.<br />
WE JUST HAVE TO<br />
MAKE SURE THAT<br />
WE TAKE CARE OF IT<br />
TO THE BEST OF OUR<br />
ABILITIES.”<br />
Is capturing a great moment luck<br />
or technique?<br />
Most of it comes from experience<br />
and a professional approach. First,<br />
know the equipment in your hands<br />
and gain basic knowledge of photo<br />
technique. I cover this in depth in<br />
my book, “The Travel Photo Essay:<br />
Describing a Journey Through Images.”<br />
I emphasize in my workshops<br />
that a photographer who<br />
wants to take professional-looking<br />
images needs to approach the field<br />
just as a person would in any other<br />
profession. They need to learn their<br />
tools of the trade. When it comes<br />
to technique, having a firm grasp<br />
of the exposure triangle — shutter<br />
speed, aperture and ISO, and how<br />
they relate to each other — is a<br />
good start.<br />
How do you capture the drama in<br />
an action shot?<br />
The keys to capturing the decisive<br />
moment in wildlife photography is<br />
being in the right place at the right<br />
time and using a fast-enough shutter<br />
speed to capture the action. For<br />
instance, I used a shutter speed of<br />
1/2000th of a second to freeze the<br />
salmon about to be caught by the<br />
grizzly above Brooks Falls. For these<br />
situations, it’s often best to work in<br />
shutter priority.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 19
What tips do you have for shooting<br />
up-close?<br />
Macro lenses are the key to photographing<br />
all sorts of smaller creatures<br />
from butterflies to tarsiers. It’s a great<br />
lens to have in the bag.<br />
Where to next and what do you hope<br />
to capture in an image?<br />
I’m heading to Southeast Asia to<br />
continue my series of orangutan<br />
portraits. While the future for many<br />
species is uncertain, orangutans in<br />
the wild are hanging on by a particularly<br />
thin vine. Their populations have<br />
declined significantly over the past<br />
hundred years in large measure due<br />
to habitat destruction in their native<br />
Sumatra and Borneo where forests<br />
give way to palm oil plantations. But<br />
palm oil production can be done sustainably<br />
without destroying forests<br />
and consumers can support these<br />
efforts by using products that have<br />
a RSPO (Sustainable Palm Oil) label<br />
or the Green Palm label, the latter<br />
indicating a product in support of the<br />
transition to certified palm oil.<br />
Instagram: @MarkEdwardHarrisPhoto<br />
Website: www.MarkEdwardHarris.com<br />
ABOUT FACE<br />
Leave your beauty arsenal at home<br />
and pack a cult favorite product —<br />
made in Napa Valley — that keeps skin<br />
balanced on the move.<br />
Active Botanical Serum by Vintner’s<br />
Daughter in 5 ml travel size | $65<br />
vintnersdaughter.com<br />
20 KER & DOWNEY
MINIMALISM TO GO<br />
Travel accessories and multitasking takealongs<br />
have gotten sleeker and stronger,<br />
without sacrificing a single ounce of chic. In<br />
an Instagram world, the new status symbols<br />
are logo-less wonders that work hard and<br />
keep you looking sharp.<br />
Water-resistant nylon, clean lines, ample<br />
compartments and a flat bottom make a<br />
compact duffle that fits under-seat on a<br />
plane without gobbling up legroom.<br />
Photos courtesy of Mark Edward Harris | Vintner's Daughter | Away | MVMT | Zendure | MUUÑ<br />
Inspired by 1960s automotive culture,<br />
this affordable timepiece quietly steals<br />
attention with its classic blend of form and<br />
function. Choose from a variety of straps.<br />
Blacktop Series 47mm Watch in Silver Mist by<br />
MVMT | $185 | mvmtwatches.com<br />
Chargers, no matter how small, can be cumbersome.<br />
This multitasking, portable power<br />
bank is the sleek, gold standard — crushproof,<br />
allows you to charge your devices<br />
while charging an external battery and can<br />
keep 95% of its charge for up to 6 months.<br />
Zendure A5 Portable Charger | $60 | zendure.com<br />
The Everywhere Bag by AWAY | $195<br />
awaytravel.com<br />
A sturdy straw bag (handwoven in<br />
Ghana) with an added shoulder strap<br />
looks smart while traveling and suits<br />
any destination, from lounging on the<br />
beach to picnicking by the Seine to<br />
shopping in the souk.<br />
Medium Caba Straw Tote by MUUÑ | $215<br />
lagarconne.com and netaporter.com<br />
KER & DOWNEY 21
NEXT UP:<br />
GO ECO<br />
As travelers become more<br />
aware of the environmental<br />
impacts of tourism on<br />
destinations, Ker & Downey<br />
recommends more roads<br />
less traveled. Here are<br />
three to see now.<br />
COSTA RICA<br />
A land thick with dense wildlife-packed jungles, otherworldly<br />
cloud forests, UNESCO World Heritage Sites and<br />
uncrowded, unspoiled beaches on the Pacific and Caribbean<br />
sides — Costa Rica is rich with ecozones. Visit and<br />
you’ll often hear the words “pura vida,” the national ethos<br />
of living simply, optimistically and stress free with abiding<br />
gratitude for the country’s prolific natural and cultural<br />
gifts. Think cascading waterfalls, towering volcanic<br />
mountains and steamy thermal spas, as well as the alluring<br />
colonial city of San José. Boasting some of Latin America’s<br />
most innovative environmental policies, Costa Rica has<br />
turned small-scale ecotourism into high art, with luxury<br />
glamping experiences that are at the forefront of water and<br />
wildlife conservation, and even agroforestry.<br />
The canopy<br />
suite at<br />
Pacuare<br />
Lodge<br />
The sunset<br />
from White<br />
Pearl in<br />
Mozambique<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Off the beaten path, southern Africa’s<br />
remote and sparsely-touristed seaside<br />
marvel gives way to some of the planet’s<br />
most singular experiences and sights,<br />
such as the marine animals, bird species<br />
and wild horses that thrive on the six<br />
islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago.<br />
Traced by the Indian Ocean, the pristine<br />
coastline offers sparkling sand and<br />
views of the sea often dotted with colorful<br />
dhows afloat above vibrant corals<br />
and abundant sea life. While the country<br />
is home to wetlands, forests and<br />
savannahs, underwater safari is where<br />
it’s at, making Mozambique an ideal<br />
place to view sea life in the vast and<br />
purest of blues. The islands and islets<br />
of the seemingly-boundless Quirimbas<br />
Archipelago and Quirimbas National<br />
Park are virtually undiscovered. Beyond<br />
the sea, the sleepy seaside villages of<br />
Nampula Province beckon discovery of<br />
authentic local life.<br />
A polar bear in the<br />
Svalbard islands<br />
NORWAY<br />
As if an arresting, dramatic natural<br />
landscape carved by fjords and<br />
massive, snow-capped mountains<br />
and hidden glassy lakes isn’t reason<br />
enough to visit, this Scandinavian<br />
country is also known for the<br />
world’s highest standard of living<br />
and fair quality of life for its inhabitants.<br />
From quaint fishing villages<br />
to rare and unusual wildlife to the<br />
heritage of Viking sagas, it’s easy<br />
to explore all, leaving a minimal<br />
environmental footprint. A perfect<br />
fit for all levels of sustainable adventure<br />
— kayaking, hiking, arctic<br />
whale watching, glacier viewing,<br />
fishing and foraging, skiing or<br />
chasing the Northern Lights — this<br />
is a bucket list destination that remains<br />
under the radar just enough<br />
that you often feel you have the<br />
whole world to yourself.<br />
Photos courtesy of White Pearl | Pacuare Lodge | iStock<br />
22 KER & DOWNEY
DESTINATIONS<br />
The World of Ker & Downey<br />
Chichicastenango, Guatemala<br />
KER & DOWNEY 23
EAST<br />
AFRICA<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
KENYA<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
REPUBLIC<br />
OF CONGO<br />
RWANDA<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
TANZANIA<br />
UGANDA<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Embark on a photographic safari<br />
with a wildlife photography expert.<br />
UGANDA<br />
Volunteer with local<br />
hospitals, schools or a<br />
conservation organization.<br />
24 KER & DOWNEY
Photos courtesy of iStock | Little Chem Chem | Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp | Nyungwe House, a partner hotel of One&Only | Ol Jogi<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
Interact with the Mursi, Hamer and Karo peoples<br />
in Omo Valley, home to eighteen diverse tribes.<br />
KENYA<br />
Take a private helicopter tour of lakes<br />
Turkana and Logipi, Mount Kenya and<br />
the highlands of Aberdare National Park.<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
Canoe to Lemur Island sanctuary to<br />
view lemurs in their jungle refuge, one<br />
of a precious few places to see these<br />
primates wild and free.<br />
RWANDA<br />
Trek under the canopy in Nyungwe<br />
Forest National Park, home to 25<br />
percent of Africa’s primate species.
Gorilla trekking at<br />
Gorilla Forest Camp
UGANDA<br />
FOREVER<br />
Ker & Downey designer Cherie Tann shares<br />
six reasons why Uganda should not be<br />
overlooked on an east African safari.<br />
As told to Rina Chandarana<br />
it may be small, but uganda<br />
has so much to offer. friendly<br />
people, oodles of wildlife<br />
(including gorillas) and a<br />
beyond blissful year-round<br />
climate make this a destination<br />
worth adding to your travel<br />
bucket list.<br />
BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mist-laden mountains and dense forests roll as<br />
far as the eye can see in this corner of Uganda.<br />
Hidden in the greenery are one of the country’s<br />
main attractions: the gorillas. I’ll never forget the<br />
feeling of getting up-close to these magnificent<br />
creatures. Little babies played on branches and<br />
casually crossed my path. Eco-conscious travelers<br />
can get hands-on by planting trees to help<br />
preserve this landscape or help to contribute to<br />
the Gorilla Forest Camp’s philanthropy projects.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 27
Venture to<br />
Murchison<br />
Falls by boat.<br />
Photos courtesy of Gorilla Forest Camp | Baker's Lodge | Ishasha Wilderness Camp | iStock<br />
MURCHISON FALLS<br />
After flying into the bustling capital city<br />
of Kampala, I headed north to Murchison<br />
Falls National Park to stay at Baker’s<br />
Lodge, a small boutique property frequently<br />
visited by a barrel of monkeys<br />
perched in the trees. This is one of my<br />
favorite areas because of the incredible<br />
game viewing. Rothschild giraffes wander,<br />
lions roam and hyenas yip. After a<br />
two-hour boat ride to get closer to the<br />
crashing falls, I could easily spot loads<br />
of lounging hippos. Elephants stopped<br />
by the banks for a drink and crocodiles<br />
glided along. Hike up to the top of the<br />
falls for a spectacular perspective or<br />
soar sky-high in a hot air balloon.<br />
A private tent<br />
at Ishasha<br />
Wilderness<br />
Camp<br />
QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK<br />
There are several lodges to choose from in this area, but my<br />
go-to is the six-tented Ishasha Wilderness Camp, a great<br />
place to start a primate trek and to see elephants. The lakes<br />
and the Kazinga Channel attract birds, beasts and scores of<br />
fishermen prepping their boats for a day out on the water.<br />
28 KER & DOWNEY
KIBALE NATIONAL PARK<br />
This absolutely stunning part of southern Uganda overflows<br />
with rolling green hills and deep blue volcanic<br />
crater lakes. Chimp trekking is the highlight, headed by<br />
trained guides adept at locating the exquisite creatures<br />
hanging out in the little clearings and peering down<br />
from tree branches. I was able to get up-close to primates<br />
during a trek from Ndali Lodge.<br />
Jabali Ridge's<br />
plunge pool is a<br />
welcomed respite<br />
after a day on safari.<br />
But it was my interaction with Ugandans that endeared<br />
me to the country. Towns and villages are hives of<br />
activity. Ladies carry baskets on their backs, brimming<br />
with freshly picked leaves and beans at verdant<br />
tea and coffee farms. Happy children run around and<br />
play soccer after school. This is a true glimpse into daily<br />
Ugandan life.<br />
A mother and<br />
her child in<br />
Uganda<br />
A wild<br />
chimpanze<br />
at Kibale<br />
National Park<br />
The crested<br />
crane, Uganda's<br />
national bird<br />
LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK<br />
Activities are plentiful around Lake Mburo. Enjoy a<br />
horseback safari or speed things up with a mountain<br />
bike ride while zebras race along. The wonderful variety<br />
of birds caught my eye the most. Crested cranes—the<br />
national bird of Uganda featured on the country’s flag—<br />
wade in the waters, while a colorful cast of yellow, blue<br />
and green birds chirp in the surrounding trees.<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Pack light-weight, quickdrying<br />
hiking pants<br />
that can be tucked into<br />
sturdy hiking boots.<br />
- Cherie Tann, Designer<br />
JINJA<br />
Adventure-seekers will love river rafting, fishing and gliding<br />
along in canoes launched from the shores of Lake Victoria,<br />
where the Nile begins. There is a lot to do here, and it’s easy<br />
to end your trip on an exciting note. As for me, I relaxed at<br />
the end of my full and fulfilling journey to Uganda.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 29
SOUTHERN<br />
AFRICA<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
NAMIBIA<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Sail the Indian ocean in an<br />
authentic Arabian dhow.<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Take in the marvel of the Okavango<br />
Delta on a private helicopter tour.<br />
30 KER & DOWNEY
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Hike the coastal Oystercatcher Trail<br />
to spot rare birds and sea life.<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Cruise the Zambezi River and catch<br />
sight of hippos wading in the water.<br />
Photos courtesy of Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort & Spa | iStock | Busanga | Kuala Desert Lodge | Belmond Eagle Island<br />
NAMIBIA<br />
View the famous red dunes and dramatic desert<br />
landscapes of Sossusvlei from a hot air balloon.<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
See the mighty Victoria Falls<br />
on a sundowner cruise.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 31
Guests on a walking safari at<br />
Victoria Falls River Lodge
AFRICA’S<br />
SAFARI<br />
DARLING<br />
Why Zimbabwe Should Be Your<br />
Next Safari. By Haley Beham<br />
with incredible natural<br />
beauty, exceptional wildlife<br />
variety and some of the<br />
friendliest people on the<br />
planet, zimbabwe offers an<br />
unrivaled safari experience<br />
at a fraction of the cost of<br />
its neighboring countries.<br />
In The Colorado Kid, Stephen<br />
King wrote that ‘sooner or later,<br />
everything old is new again.’ If he<br />
was right, then Zimbabwe is about<br />
to have a very big moment on the<br />
safari scene.<br />
After decades-long political and<br />
economic turmoil cast a dark<br />
shadow over tourism in Zimbabwe,<br />
the country is back and poised to<br />
reclaim its position as a top safari<br />
destination. Helping to usher in this<br />
new era is the Victoria Falls International<br />
Airport which opened at the<br />
end of 2016. While it is far from seeing<br />
1.5 million visitors per year as it<br />
did in the 1990s, there’s no doubt<br />
about it: a new dawn is breaking.<br />
The time to visit Zimbabwe is now.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 33
Photos: Above:<br />
Cheetahs in<br />
Hwange National<br />
Park; Right: A<br />
stunning suite at<br />
Somalisa Camp<br />
HWANGE NATIONAL PARK<br />
Situated on the western border of Botswana,<br />
Hwange National Park spreads<br />
across 5,650 square miles and is the<br />
country’s largest wildlife sanctuary<br />
and its most famous safari destination.<br />
It is well-known for its thriving<br />
elephant population, and is one<br />
of the best places in Southern Africa<br />
to spot lions, zebra, giraffe and white<br />
rhino. Notably, brown hyena and large<br />
packs of wild dog are also prolific in<br />
the authentic wilderness of Hwange.<br />
Variety is the spice of life here, not<br />
only in its assembly of wildlife, but<br />
also in its landscape. Within the park,<br />
you’ll find diverse topography, from<br />
the desert sands of the Kalahari near<br />
the border, to the mopane woodlands<br />
and grasslands, to the ancient seasonal<br />
floodplains which form wetlands in the<br />
rainy season.<br />
WHERE TO STAY: With just seven<br />
canvas tents outfitted with copper bath<br />
tubs and outdoor showers, Somalisa<br />
Camp offers luxury and adventure in<br />
the heart of Hwange National Park. You<br />
don’t even have to leave camp in search<br />
of wildlife. Zebras have been known<br />
to snack within view of the bathtubs,<br />
and the swimming pool and main areas<br />
boast amazing views of the pan where<br />
large herds of elephant have attempted<br />
to claim the territory.<br />
Photos courtesy of Victoria Falls River Lodge | Somalisa Camp | Greater Mana Expedition | Singita Pamushana<br />
MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK<br />
In the remote reaches of the north, Mana Pools National Park<br />
is a wildly untamed conservation area and UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site. Here, the Zambezi River is the life force, flooding<br />
the plains and filling four large pools that were once part<br />
of channels that have long since ceased flowing. These pools,<br />
brimming with water year-round, attract big game to the<br />
area. Still, the park is more well-known for its large concentration<br />
of hippos and crocodiles. Get out of the safari vehicle<br />
here to stretch your legs and explore the area on foot, as<br />
Mana Pools is renowned for walking safaris.<br />
WHERE TO STAY: Explore Mana Pools National Park and<br />
the neighboring private Sapi Reserve (which forms part of the<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site) with Greater Mana Expedition,<br />
an intimate six-day adventure focusing on exploration and<br />
discovery through walking and canoe safaris.<br />
34 KER & DOWNEY<br />
A mother elephant<br />
with her young<br />
at Greater Mana<br />
Expedition
Photos: Left:<br />
Glorious Victoria<br />
Falls at sunset;<br />
Bottom: The<br />
island treehouse<br />
suite at Victoria<br />
Falls River Lodge<br />
VICTORIA FALLS<br />
Of course, you can’t travel<br />
to Zimbabwe without visiting<br />
Mosi-oa-Tunya, better<br />
known as Victoria Falls.<br />
Its local name means “the<br />
smoke that thunders,” and<br />
it’s an awe-inspiring Natural<br />
Wonder of the World.<br />
When the Zambezi River,<br />
the natural border between<br />
Zambia and Zimbabwe, is<br />
in full flood, it forms the<br />
world’s largest curtain of<br />
falling water. It’s quite a<br />
spectacle to experience.<br />
WHERE TO STAY:<br />
Located on the banks of<br />
the Zambezi River just<br />
minutes from the falls,<br />
Victoria Falls River Lodge<br />
is the first private game<br />
lodge within Zambezi<br />
National Park. With just<br />
seven tented suites, you<br />
can combine a safari<br />
experience in the African<br />
bush with visits to Victoria<br />
Falls, undoubtedly one of<br />
the world’s most famous<br />
destinations.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 35
Incredible views<br />
await at Singita<br />
Pamushana<br />
MALILANGWE PRIVATE RESERVE<br />
The Malilangwe Private Reserve in southeastern Zimbabwe is home to one of the most successful black rhino protection<br />
programs in Africa. As a result, the highest concentration of black rhinos in the world thrive in this 130,000-acre<br />
wilderness. Geologically, the land is diverse, with sandstone hills, the Chiredzi River, riverine forests, mopane woodlands<br />
and the Malilangwe dam. The diversity in habitats supports a wide range of wildlife in addition to its population of<br />
rhino. Predators like lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and wild dogs prowl the reserve for plains game. Sable antelope<br />
and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest roam in the mopane woodlands to the south and east. Tiger fish, among other species of<br />
fish, and a healthy population of hippo, crocodile and birdlife are found in the Malilangwe dam.<br />
WHERE TO STAY: Recently renovated, the celebrated Singita Pamushana lodge is the ecotourism arm of the Malilangwe<br />
Private Reserve and exists to help fund the conservation projects and assist the communities bordering the reserve. It<br />
is an excellent example of the harmony that can exist between conservation initiatives, community outreach and tourism.<br />
36 KER & DOWNEY
Luxury African Safari<br />
ZAMBEZI QUEEN<br />
Rolling on the great Chobe River, Zambezi Queen is a 5-star,<br />
42-meter-long luxury houseboat offering unparalleled<br />
sophistication in one of the most remote locations on the<br />
planet. As our guest, you can enjoy a truly adventurous river<br />
safari while being immersed in complete comfort and elegance.<br />
Each of the Zambezi Queen’s 14 suites features airconditioning<br />
and a private balcony, where you can take in<br />
unobstructed views of the Chobe River and African landscape.<br />
See wildlife from different vantage points on board, including<br />
from the comfort of your own bed. Chobe National Park boasts<br />
one of the densest populations of elephants on the African<br />
continent, as well as leopards, lions, buffalo, a variety of<br />
antelope and abundant birdlife.<br />
34 KER & DOWNEY<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Camp Jabulani in your next custom journey.<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM<br />
the Zambezi Queen in your next custom journey.<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM
NORTH AFRICA<br />
& MIDDLE EAST<br />
EGYPT<br />
ISRAEL<br />
JORDAN<br />
MOROCCO<br />
OMAN<br />
QATAR<br />
SUDAN<br />
UNITED ARAB<br />
EMIRATES<br />
OMAN<br />
Hop on board a luxury yacht<br />
from Muscat’s marina.<br />
ISRAEL<br />
Shop in a Tel Aviv<br />
market and learn to<br />
cook the ingredients<br />
with a local chef.<br />
38 KER & DOWNEY
JORDAN<br />
Explore the desert canyon<br />
surrounding Petra.<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Learn how to<br />
extract argan oil,<br />
an important family<br />
cottage industry.<br />
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />
Share a meal with an expert on Arab<br />
and Emirati culture.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | Jordan Tourism Board | Ker & Downey<br />
EGYPT<br />
Find out how the Sphinx<br />
was carved from a single<br />
mass of limestone from<br />
a leading Egyptologist.
The spa at Lazib Inn
DESERT<br />
DREAMS<br />
There’s more to Egypt than the<br />
grand temples of the ancient<br />
pharaohs along a legendary<br />
river. Head west of the Nile and<br />
south of Cairo and find two<br />
unique oases and cultures.<br />
By Haley Beham<br />
Fayoum Oasis<br />
When describing the region 750 years<br />
ago, Fayoum’s governor Abu ‘Uthmân<br />
al-Nabulsi wrote, “Cool are the<br />
dawns; tall are the trees; many are the<br />
fruits; little are the rains.” With such<br />
a tranquil retreat so close to Cairo,<br />
it’s surprising one of the most ancient<br />
areas in all of Africa remains relatively<br />
unknown to the outside world.<br />
Sunflowers, date palms and water<br />
buffalo dominate the landscape. This<br />
area, known as the Fayoum Oasis,<br />
is not an oasis in the truest sense of<br />
the word, as it is fed by hundreds of<br />
capillary canals from the Nile instead<br />
of springs. Still, the land is fertile.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 41
Drink local tea<br />
at Lazib Inn.<br />
to truly experience one of Egypt’s best kept secrets, make your<br />
base at the lavishly luxurious Lazib Inn. With just eight rooms, the boutique<br />
hotel is set among manicured gardens overlooking the world’s oldest<br />
nature reserve on the shores of Lake Qaroun. Once a breadbasket of<br />
the Roman world, this area is known for producing delicious fruits and<br />
vegetables. Its bounty inspires the dining experience at Lazib Inn, where<br />
fresh, local ingredients stand out.<br />
The relaxing setting makes Lazib Inn an ideal destination to start or end a<br />
journey to Egypt, but there’s also plenty to do there. Try horseback rides<br />
on Arabian steeds, desert safaris exploring the shimmering sand dunes<br />
and exploration of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Wadi El Hitan (Valley<br />
of the Whales). Fayoum is widely regarded as the best place for birdwatching<br />
in Egypt, peaking from October to April when a number of<br />
bird species, including a variety of warblers and larks, flock to the oasis.<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
From Lazib Inn, head up the street to<br />
Mahmoud el-Sherif’s pottery shop and<br />
stock up on beautifully hand-thrown bowls,<br />
platters and more. - Nicole Porto, Designer<br />
Siwa Oasis<br />
Further west in a seemingly endless expanse of sand, the<br />
Siwa Oasis is home to 20,000 indigenous Siwis, a Berber<br />
ethnic group who lead minimalistic lives in a tribal system<br />
that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries.<br />
Since about 700 BC, they have managed to live in isolation,<br />
speaking their own language and boasting a cultural<br />
identity vastly different from modern Egyptians. For a true<br />
glimpse into the lives of the Siwis, make plans to visit a local<br />
family for tea in their home.<br />
The Greeks first discovered the Siwa Oasis and established<br />
the Oracle of Amun there. After reclaiming Egypt from the<br />
Persians, Alexander the Great made the long journey to<br />
Siwa to visit the Oracle where, allegedly, he was told he<br />
was the son of Amun-Ra, the supreme god. Today, you<br />
can walk in Alexander’s footsteps and visit the ruins of<br />
the Oracle Temple. You shouldn’t miss a visit to Jebel al-<br />
Mwata (Mountain of the Dead) either. It’s Siwa’s version<br />
of the Valley of the Kings with ancient tombs dug into the<br />
mountain. If you’re adventurous, try dune bashing, sand<br />
boarding, hiking or horseback riding in the desert.<br />
Retreat to Adrere Amellal, a 40-room eco-resort located<br />
at the foot of White Mountain overlooking Lake Siwa.<br />
Each room is hand-built using traditional materials in the<br />
unique Siwan style that blends into the landscape. With no<br />
electricity, the environmentally-sustainable lodge is a true<br />
getaway in the desert.<br />
Photos courtesy of Lazib Inn | Adrere Amellal<br />
Siwan-style<br />
rooms at<br />
Adrere Amellal<br />
At night pathways are illuminated by lanterns and beeswax<br />
candles. Dining becomes an elegant affair as traditional<br />
cuisine made from organic and locally-grown produce is<br />
served in a different location each night: in a small nook<br />
tucked out of the way of the lodge, by the shore of the salt<br />
lake or in a forest of palm trees.<br />
After exploring Cairo and the ancient Egyptian temples<br />
along the Nile, make time to escape to the two oases setting<br />
a new standard of luxury in the desert.<br />
42 KER & DOWNEY
Shali Fortress<br />
in Siwa Oasis
BHUTAN<br />
ASIA<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
CHINA<br />
INDIA<br />
INDONESIA<br />
JAPAN<br />
KAZAKHSTAN<br />
LAOS<br />
MALAYSIA<br />
MALDIVES<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
MYANMAR<br />
NEPAL<br />
PHILIPPINES<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
SRI LANKA<br />
THAILAND<br />
VIETNAM<br />
UZBEKISTAN<br />
INDONESIA<br />
See pristine coral reefs, swim with<br />
dolphins, dive among Taka Makassar’s<br />
Manta Rays or trek Komodo Island.<br />
PHILLIPPINES<br />
Dive the deep with<br />
whale sharks, the<br />
ocean’s gentle giants.<br />
44 KER & DOWNEY
THAILAND<br />
Take a helicopter ride<br />
over Phang Nga Bay<br />
to a private beach for<br />
canoeing and snorkeling.<br />
VIETNAM<br />
Experience a warm welcome from traditional<br />
dancers followed by dinner and live music at<br />
a French villa in Ho Chi Minh City.<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
Visit remote villages via private boat ride on Tonle<br />
Sap Lake and sip on crafted cocktails as you watch<br />
the sunset from a private viewing platform.<br />
CHINA<br />
Discover the vibrant creative scene in<br />
Shanghai’s arts districts, including the<br />
Former French Concession, the Bund,<br />
Huangpu museums and the famous M50.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | Ker & Downey
Gassho-zukuri style<br />
homes in Kanazawa
OUTSIDE<br />
LANDS<br />
Designer Tess Koptiuch<br />
travels to Japan and<br />
discovers a country where<br />
modernity and ancient<br />
tradition go hand in hand.<br />
As told to Haley Beham<br />
If ever there was a picture of how<br />
millions of people can peacefully<br />
coexist, Japan is it. Over 127 million<br />
people call the island country home,<br />
yet the streets are clean and people<br />
are civil and polite to one another.<br />
It’s full of stark contrast. I take in<br />
these odd, striking juxtapositions as<br />
I travel from Tokyo to Kanazawa to<br />
Kaga, and back to Tokyo again. Yet<br />
the big picture is harmoniuous. After<br />
a brief stay in high-tech Tokyo, I<br />
board Japan’s luxurious Shinkansen<br />
bullet train in Gran Class (first class)<br />
for Kanazawa, a town known for its<br />
well-preserved Edo-era districts,<br />
restored Samurai houses, geisha<br />
culture and regional handicrafts.<br />
Because of its relatively remote location,<br />
the city escaped bombing during<br />
World War II. As a result, much<br />
of its traditional architecture is still<br />
intact. Its proliferation of traditional<br />
arts like hand-painted silks and ceramics,<br />
earned Kanazawa designation<br />
as a UNESCO Creative City for<br />
Crafts and Folk Art.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 47
"Established in<br />
1639, Araya Totoan<br />
has been owned by<br />
the Maeda family<br />
for 18 generations.<br />
Hostesses anticipate<br />
my every need ... "<br />
As I watch the artisans cut gold leaf into small<br />
squares, I learn that Kanazawa is the leading<br />
producer of gold leaf in Japan. The city’s<br />
gold leaf production dates back 400 years and<br />
today is a source of local pride for the artisans<br />
and residents alike. You can find it decorating<br />
folding screens, ceramics, glassware, temples<br />
and shrines. I am served green tea with a piece<br />
of gold leaf in it. Before leaving, I am given a<br />
piece to keep in my wallet for good fortune.<br />
From Kanazawa, I continue my journey<br />
to Kaga, a quaint spa town. I stay at Araya<br />
Totoan, a traditional Japanese ryokan, where<br />
I am steeped in classic Japanese hospitality.<br />
Established in 1639, Araya Totoan has been<br />
owned by the Maeda family for 18 generations.<br />
Hostesses anticipate my every need and<br />
fresh Kaiseki-style meals are served on rare<br />
Kutani ceramic and Yamanaka lacquerware.<br />
Inside my suite I indulge in modern amenities<br />
that complement the traditional, minimalist<br />
Japanese style. I also take full advantage of<br />
two hot spring bath tubs. In addition to the<br />
private baths, Araya Totoan has three public<br />
baths filled with the restorative waters of<br />
Yamashiro hot springs.<br />
While in Kaga, I have the rare treat of visiting<br />
the artist Buzan Fukushima at his home studio.<br />
Buzan is a master of Aka-e painting (red<br />
painting), a highly valued craft first produced<br />
in 1640. In 2015, he was commissioned by<br />
Hermès to paint 12 watch faces for the Slim<br />
d’Hermès line, marking the first time Japanese<br />
art was combined with French porcelain.<br />
I enjoy seeing the intricacy and difficulty of<br />
his craft firsthand. I’m surprised to see that<br />
he paints with such precision, even without<br />
the use of glasses or a magnifying glass. To<br />
demonstrate his craft while I’m there, he<br />
paints my name onto a single grain of rice. He<br />
then signs the back and gives it to me. All of<br />
Buzan’s works are commissioned and cannot<br />
be purchased in a shop, so my little grain of<br />
rice is my most prized souvenir.<br />
Photos: Above: Hot springs bath<br />
tubs at Araya Totoan; Bottom:<br />
Buzan Fukushima at work<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
It's Japanese tradition to remove your shoes when<br />
entering a home or various other establishments<br />
that you will surely visit. Wear shoes that are easy<br />
to slip on and off. And be sure to wear socks!<br />
- Tess Koptiuch, Designer<br />
48 KER & DOWNEY
Modern meets<br />
tradition at Palace<br />
Hotel Tokyo<br />
I wrap up my journey in the heart of the action, at the<br />
Palace Hotel Tokyo, a property that effortlessly blends old<br />
and new. The luxe high rise is impeccably clean, with 278<br />
spacious rooms and 12 suites that sit opposite the Imperial<br />
Palace Gardens. Throughout the hotel, I find an eclectic mix<br />
of over 1,000 pieces ranging from traditional ink washes to<br />
colorful abstracts and laser-cut paper art. Each piece has<br />
been specially selected or commissioned for the hotel from<br />
some of Japan’s most loved artists, as well as some of the<br />
country’s most promising up and coming creatives. But the<br />
cornerstone of the hotel is its staff. Friendly, polite and attentive,<br />
Japan’s traditional culture of hospitality is present<br />
even in the cutting-edge, urban hotel.<br />
Japanese hospitality encompasses so much more than<br />
friendly service. I experienced it throughout my journey,<br />
from the meticulous preparation and presentation of meals<br />
to the pride artisans take in their craft. I felt it most in the<br />
sincere kindness of each person I met along the way.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 49
NORTH<br />
UNITED STATES<br />
AMERICA<br />
CALIFORNIA<br />
Sail to the notorious Alcatraz<br />
Island prison in San Francisco<br />
Bay and dig into its history<br />
with a private guide.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | The ARTS at Marks Garage<br />
HAWAII<br />
Explore Honolulu’s<br />
Chinatown and enjoy<br />
a performance at the<br />
ARTS at Marks Garage.<br />
50 KER & DOWNEY
NEW YORK<br />
See a pizzaiolo spin a pie<br />
from scratch in Brooklyn.<br />
PENNSYLVANIA<br />
Learn more about the<br />
origins of the Declaration<br />
of Independence in the<br />
city of Philadelphia.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 51
The Preservation<br />
Hall Band in<br />
New Orleans
SOUTHERN<br />
COMFORT<br />
Stimulate all of your senses on a grand tour<br />
of the southern United States, from the<br />
home of the King of Rock to the streets<br />
of the Big Easy. With Ker & Downey you’ll<br />
experience the holy trinity of southern<br />
hospitality: good music, decadent cuisine<br />
and handcrafted booze to lift your spirits.<br />
By Katy Heerssen<br />
LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL<br />
NEW ORLEANS, DECADENT CITY<br />
OF INDULGENCE, is a celebration<br />
of life year-round. Exclusive Ker<br />
& Downey experiences let you bear<br />
witness to its eclectic tapestry of food,<br />
drink and live music far from the hordes<br />
of tourists. Prowl the streets with a local<br />
musicologist and hear tales of musicians<br />
who have shaped the landscape of<br />
the city as you explore Congo Square,<br />
the Preservation Hall Jazz Club and the<br />
Treme. From fresh Gulf oysters and<br />
shrimp to immaculate Creole creations,<br />
take your mealtime to the next level.<br />
Taste some of the world’s best bites at<br />
James Beard award-winners and family<br />
joints passed down through generations.<br />
Shake things up with celebrity<br />
mixologist Daniel Victory and go behind<br />
his bar to learn the art of crafting<br />
memorable cocktails.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 53
Classic car<br />
tours outside<br />
of Sun Studios<br />
THE SOUL OF MEMPHIS<br />
IN 1968, DR. MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. WAS ASSASSINATED at<br />
the Lorraine Motel. This pivotal place in American history is now the site<br />
of the National Civil Rights Museum, a moving interactive experience that<br />
traces past and ongoing struggles for equality in the United States. It’s a<br />
story told frankly and with much respect, and you encounter it in reverence<br />
with a knowledgeable Ker & Downey guide. Explore Memphis’ legendary<br />
musical roots at the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. More<br />
than 2,000 artifacts and ephemera from the golden age of this distinctly<br />
American genre fill the halls of this hallowed space.<br />
Dr. Martin<br />
Luther King<br />
Jr. in 1964<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Take time to watch the resident<br />
ducks walk the red carpet at<br />
the Peabody Hotel — a longstanding<br />
Memphis tradition.<br />
-Catherine Brown, Designer<br />
54 KER & DOWNEY
Photos courtesy of Zack Smith Photography | Alex Shansky-Memphis Tourism | Library of Congress/World Telegram and Sun/Dick DeMarsico | The Grand Ole Opry; Joel Michah Dennis | Kentucky Tourism<br />
MUSIC CITY MAGIC<br />
NASHVILLE HAS BEEN THE<br />
LAUNCHPAD FOR COUNTLESS<br />
CAREERS AND MUSICAL LEGENDS,<br />
and while the Grand Ole Opry is the big<br />
name in the city’s music history (and<br />
should absolutely be seen) its roots date<br />
back to 1943 and Ryman Auditorium.<br />
Known as “The Carnegie Hall of the<br />
South,” the historic venue has hosted<br />
revivals and stage plays and was the<br />
home of the Grand Ole Opry variety<br />
show from 1943 to 1974. Take a private<br />
tour through the venue with the curator,<br />
and an exit through the stage door places<br />
you at the doorstep of a local honky-tonk<br />
where the stars of tomorrow ply their<br />
trade. Don’t miss a private walk through<br />
the Country Music Hall of Fame and RCA<br />
Studio B, where greats like Dolly Parton<br />
and Willie Nelson recorded hit records.<br />
Woodford<br />
Reserve<br />
Distillery<br />
BLUEGRASS & BOURBON<br />
WHAT COULD A BLUEGRASS PICKER KNOW ABOUT WHISKEY? Quite a lot as it turns out, when whiskey<br />
is the subject of many of his songs. Louisville legend Hickory Vaught leads you on a unique musical tour by way of<br />
downtown Louisville, where live music and an astounding collection of bourbon and whiskey bars await. Outside<br />
of the city, heavy hitters like Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark stand out on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, but they aren’t<br />
the end of the story of the spirit. With a private Ker & Downey driver and guide, you’ll go behind the scenes at some<br />
of the more regionally-famous purveyors. Among these secret spots is the Town Branch Distillery and Brewery, a<br />
barrel-aged distillery that also happens to be the oldest craft brewery in Lexington. Alongside master distiller Mark<br />
Coffman, get expert insight into both crafts and plenty of tastings, too.<br />
See the History of the South full itinerary on kerdowney.com<br />
Forecastle<br />
Music Festival<br />
in Louisville<br />
Carrie Underwood<br />
peforming at The<br />
Grand Ole Opry<br />
KER & DOWNEY 55
LATIN<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
BELIZE<br />
COSTA RICA<br />
CUBA<br />
MEXICO<br />
NICARAGUA<br />
BOLIVIA<br />
ECUADOR &<br />
PANAMA<br />
BRAZIL<br />
GALAPAGOS<br />
PERU<br />
AMERICA<br />
CHILE<br />
COLOMBIA<br />
ISLANDS<br />
GUATEMALA<br />
URUGUAY<br />
PANAMA<br />
Soar over the Panama Canal and<br />
the Pacific and Caribbean coasts<br />
in a private helicopter.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | Camp Cecil | Puerto Valle | Inca Rail<br />
MEXICO<br />
Glamp on the beaches of<br />
Isla Espiritu Santo in the<br />
Gulf of California.<br />
56 KER & DOWNEY
BRAZIL<br />
BRAZIL<br />
Join local scientists as they<br />
track and monitor the elusive<br />
jaguars of the Pantanal.<br />
Paddle down Ushuaia’s Lasiphashai River into the<br />
Beagle Channel in your own inflatable canoe to view<br />
stunning wildlife.<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
Venture out on a horseback ride to spot the<br />
endangered wildlife of the lush Ibera Wetlands.<br />
PERU<br />
Surround yourself in the beautiful Andean<br />
landscape aboard the new 360° Machu<br />
Picchu Train.<br />
BOLIVIA<br />
Enjoy a traditional picnic lunch on the<br />
shores of Lake Titicaca’s Sun Island.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 57
Antigua
QUICK TRIP<br />
Spend 72 hours in the land of eternal spring.<br />
By Haley Beham<br />
In a word, Guatemala is diverse.<br />
Language and rituals from 21 indigenous<br />
Mayan populations and the 16th-century<br />
Spanish conquerors converge to create a<br />
complex cultural heritage. Their influence<br />
can be seen woven throughout the architecture,<br />
cuisine and traditions all over the<br />
country. Its eclectic culture is matched<br />
by the country’s natural beauty found in<br />
14 recognized eco-regions that vary from<br />
mountainous highlands and volcanoes to<br />
shimmering coastline.<br />
Seventy-two hours in Guatemala will only<br />
scratch the surface of all there is to see<br />
and do, but for a quick getaway from the<br />
States, it is an ideal destination. Whether<br />
you’re into hiking volcanoes and zip-lining<br />
or browsing craft markets and drinking<br />
espresso, Guatemala offers something for<br />
every traveler.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 59
The Arco de<br />
Santa Catalina<br />
DAY ONE<br />
after landing in guatemala city, head<br />
straight for antigua. Surrounded by three volcanoes,<br />
Antigua is one of the world’s best-preserved<br />
colonial towns and feels like a world away from the city<br />
sprawl. Pastel walls line cobblestone streets that lead<br />
to colonial-era churches and mansions in this UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site.<br />
The Rose suite<br />
at Posada del<br />
Angel<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Take a tuk tuk up to Antigua’s<br />
lookout point called Cerro de<br />
la Cruz for gorgeous views of<br />
the city. -Trista Gage, Designer<br />
Check into Posada del Angel. Tucked away on a quiet<br />
street, the elegant seven-room boutique hotel is a favorite<br />
hideaway among the world’s dignitaries. Details such as<br />
large, old-fashioned room keys, hand-woven Guatemalan<br />
fabrics, antique four-poster beds and wrought-iron<br />
headboards lend authenticity to the building which was<br />
once a Spanish colonial casona.<br />
Spend the afternoon getting acquainted with Antigua<br />
on a private walking tour through the city, exploring<br />
the Spanish colonial architecture and art. Foodies can<br />
also visit a chocolate museum and learn how to prepare<br />
chocolate from a time-honored Mayan recipe, or visit<br />
a working coffee hacienda to learn about the country’s<br />
most famous export. At sunset, enjoy a rooftop cocktail.<br />
Fans of craft beer can head to Antigua Brewing<br />
Company for a nice menu of sandwiches, burgers and<br />
appetizers to complement their local, artisanal beers.<br />
From their terrace, you’ll have a 360° view of the city and<br />
three volcanoes. Keep your eye on the horizon. The lava<br />
below gives it a warm, red glow after the sun goes down.<br />
Photos courtesy of Austin Mann | iStock | Posada del Angel<br />
60 KER & DOWNEY
DAY TWO<br />
Sunsets light<br />
up the sky at<br />
Pacaya<br />
In the morning, hike up Pacaya, one<br />
of Central America’s most active<br />
volcanoes. The trek up is fairly easy<br />
and suited for a variety of fitness<br />
levels. Once you clear the forests at<br />
the bottom, it feels like you’re walking<br />
on the moon, with dark, volcanic<br />
rock all around. On a clear day, if the<br />
top isn’t covered by clouds, you may<br />
even see it fuming.<br />
In the evening, enjoy traditional<br />
Guatemalan cuisine at Los Tres Tiempos.<br />
For a truly authentic dish, order<br />
pepian, one of the country’s most<br />
common cuisines. Follow up this<br />
rich, dark stew of meat or chicken,<br />
tomatoes and spices with an al fresco<br />
drink or dessert on the restaurant’s<br />
illuminated terrace.<br />
DAY THREE<br />
Set out early for Lake Atitlan, widely regarded<br />
as one of the most beautiful lakes on earth. The<br />
shorelines are picturesque, with tiny villages<br />
dotting the hills above this ancient body of<br />
water. On the way, make a stop at Chichicastenango<br />
in Guatemala’s Western Highlands.<br />
On Thursdays and Sundays, it plays host to<br />
one of Latin America’s largest and most colorful<br />
outdoor markets, famous for its textiles.<br />
Children fly<br />
a giant kite<br />
for Dia de los<br />
Muertos<br />
SAVE THE DATE<br />
Make plans to be in Guatemala on November 1 for Día de los Muertos.<br />
As part of the All Saints’ Day celebrations, the neighboring towns of<br />
Santiago Sacatepequez and Sumpango fly giant (some as big at 100 feet)<br />
colorful kites in the air as part of a 3,000-year-old tradition honoring<br />
departed loved ones. It’s an easy day trip from Antigua and worth it to<br />
see the colorful masterpieces that take to the skies around dusk.<br />
CONSIDER AN ADD-ON<br />
If you have a couple more days to spare, head to Petén, the cradle of the<br />
Mayan civilization. From there, you can explore the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site of Tikal National Park and see the Mayan wonders at Yaxha.<br />
Later, retreat to the luxe villas of Casa Palopó<br />
for a bit of serenity and spectacular views on<br />
the shores of Lake Atitlan in charming Santa<br />
Catarina Palopó. A private boat cruise takes<br />
you to visit the indigenous villages on the<br />
shores and offers gorgeous views of the volcanoes<br />
surrounding the lake. If you can stretch<br />
your journey more than 72 hours, spend them<br />
in Casa Palopó’s solar-heated infinity pool<br />
overlooking the deep, blue lake.<br />
See a time-lapse video of Guatemala’s<br />
volcanoes by photographer Austin Mann on<br />
Ker & Downey’s Instagram, @kerdowney.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 61
The stunning surreal<br />
landscape of the<br />
Atacama Desert.
SALT of<br />
the EARTH<br />
Discover the surreal song of the planet’s<br />
driest desert in vast, enchanting Chile.<br />
By Elizabeth Frels<br />
I<br />
t only takes one day to fall in love<br />
with the Atacama Desert, a plateau<br />
on South America’s Pacific coast<br />
that meets the Andes on its descending<br />
slopes. Its rugged, ever-shifting<br />
landscape, astronomic clarity and fivestar<br />
amenities are enough for you to feel<br />
like you could stay there for weeks.<br />
The Kari Gorge is one of the lesser known<br />
regions of the Atacama, yet it comes<br />
highly recommended by some of the most<br />
experienced guides in Chile.<br />
Not only is an afternoon outing to Kari<br />
Gorge hyper-personalized to your interests,<br />
but the few guides who lead the<br />
excursion are some of only a handful certified<br />
to protect the environment. In fact,<br />
only two properties in all of Atacama have<br />
access to the Kari Gorge, Explora Atacama<br />
and Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa.<br />
Nothing can quite prepare you for the<br />
gorge’s otherworldly setting, a location<br />
often used in movies as a representation<br />
of Mars. Situated along the edge of the<br />
protected Moon Valley, the scenery is<br />
filled with rugged, jagged rocks. Following<br />
the ridgeline to the gorge, you receive<br />
an uninterrupted view of the area’s iconic<br />
sand dunes and volcanoes.<br />
While the terrain is certainly mesmerizing,<br />
equally fascinating is the story of how<br />
this environment, considered one of the<br />
world’s oldest deserts, came to be.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 59 63
Photos:<br />
Left:<br />
Expert<br />
guides<br />
lead<br />
the way<br />
through<br />
the Moon<br />
Valley;<br />
Right: The<br />
Atacama<br />
Desert<br />
It’s result of a phenomenon owing to<br />
massive high-pressure systems over<br />
the Pacific, cold Antarctic currents<br />
and a barrier created by the towering<br />
Andean mountain range which<br />
prevents moisture from reaching<br />
these parched lands. Remnants of<br />
millions of years of geological activity<br />
are on vibrant display. Formations<br />
and striations reveal where tectonic<br />
movements shifted and where top<br />
layers were settled from volcanic ash.<br />
The most surprising facet to witness,<br />
however, is the salt.<br />
Salt saturates the landscape. Snowy<br />
white in appearance, the salt mountains,<br />
salt lakes, salt waterfalls and<br />
salt rivers surrounding you can easily<br />
trick you into thinking snow has<br />
fallen in the desert. In reality, the<br />
rains have simply evaporated, draping<br />
the land in a crystalline blanket.<br />
Next, descend down the face of a<br />
sand dune toward the valley floor of<br />
the Kari Gorge. This steep slide down<br />
is significant. You are going beyond<br />
the demarcated pathways to set foot<br />
on the pristine dunes of the Atacama<br />
Desert — something very few are allowed<br />
to do.<br />
The gorge itself is about 15 feet wide,<br />
with salt rock walls towering 30 to<br />
40 feet high on either side. One of the<br />
first surprises upon your arrival is a<br />
raging river that looks to be flash frozen<br />
with its waves and crevices<br />
perfectly preserved in the ice.<br />
Your eyes might deceive you<br />
into thinking it is a glacier,<br />
but it is actually just more salt.<br />
In fact, this is what the whole<br />
gorge would look like if people<br />
did not walk through it.<br />
While exploring this natural<br />
wonder, trek inside the gorge’s many<br />
naturally-formed caves, where salt<br />
crystals embed themselves in the rock<br />
face within. The lack of foot traffic<br />
and natural erosion inside the caves<br />
means that the salt deposits inside are<br />
so concentrated that they are prone<br />
to glowing when exposed to light — a<br />
phenomenon easily illuminated by<br />
your cell phone flash.<br />
Perhaps the most memorable experience<br />
amid this land of sand and salt is<br />
toward the end of the three-hour trek<br />
when you are encouraged to pause for<br />
a moment of silence while standing<br />
in the gorge. All of a sudden, the<br />
swelling of sound reaches your ears<br />
as the salt crystals crack, expand and<br />
contract with the changing temperatures<br />
of the desert.<br />
It is an orchestra of crystals, harmonious<br />
and full of soaring moments.<br />
Nature’s composition reminding you<br />
of its undeniable beauty. Even in this<br />
remotest of settings, while celebrating<br />
with a refreshing drink amid the salt<br />
You are going beyond the<br />
demarcated pathways to set<br />
foot on the pristine dunes<br />
of the Atacama Desert —<br />
something very few are<br />
allowed to do.<br />
flats of the Moon Valley, it is difficult<br />
not to be reminded of how severely<br />
impactful your presence is on such a<br />
unique corner of it.<br />
Thankfully, the few guides who<br />
venture into this region have an<br />
undeniable respect for the land. Not<br />
only do they take great care of your<br />
every step, but they also expose you<br />
to aspects of the Atacama otherwise<br />
hidden to the common eye — whether<br />
it is the geological markers that illustrate<br />
the history of the environment;<br />
or the owl regurgitations that divulge<br />
how an animal can survive in such<br />
a harsh habitat; or the prime photo<br />
spots, exposures and settings to snap<br />
the best images, even on your iPhone.<br />
They will also introduce you to the<br />
phenomenon that is the symphony of<br />
salt, a composition you are not likely<br />
to forget.<br />
Contact a Ker & Downey Designer or<br />
your local travel professional to start<br />
planning your personalized stay in<br />
Chile’s Atacama Desert.<br />
Photos courtesy of Explora | Turismo Chile<br />
64 KER & DOWNEY
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Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to<br />
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include the Explora in your next custom journey.<br />
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NORTHERN & WESTERN<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
GREENLAND<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
EUROPE<br />
BELGIUM<br />
DENMARK<br />
ENGLAND<br />
ICELAND<br />
IRELAND<br />
LATVIA<br />
NORWAY<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
SWEDEN<br />
ESTONIA<br />
LIECHTENSTEIN<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
FINLAND<br />
LITHUANIA<br />
WALES<br />
FRANCE<br />
LUXEMBOURG<br />
GERMANY<br />
MONACO<br />
GREENLAND<br />
Visit an Inuit settlement to learn<br />
about traditional fishing techniques.<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
Embrace the national dress<br />
with a bespoke kilt fitting.<br />
66 KER & DOWNEY
FRANCE<br />
Enjoy a family-friendly treasure<br />
hunt inside the Louvre.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | Royal Fingal Yacht<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Drive through Salzburg’s idyllic<br />
countryside in a vintage Rolls Royce.<br />
ESTONIA<br />
Shop for weird and wonderful trinkets<br />
at the Soviet Flea Market in Tallin.<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Sip on local beer on an<br />
artisanal brewery tour.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 67
A sprawling, birdseye<br />
view of Berlin
GREAT UN-<br />
EXPECTATIONS<br />
Ker & Downey’s Michael Jackson’s journey through<br />
Berlin and Hamburg reveals that the future of luxury<br />
travel in Germany is all about the unexpected: the<br />
Michelin-starred cuisine, the cultural rebirths and the<br />
old stereotypes finding new identities in a country<br />
ready for its breakout moment.<br />
I expected to love Berlin.<br />
Its creativity, character and flavors always<br />
held more appeal to me than the typical<br />
Paris or Rome European gateways. The city<br />
did not disappoint and impressed me more<br />
than I thought possible.<br />
The magnitude of Berlin’s history alongside<br />
its cosmopolitan progressiveness leaves in its<br />
wake a unique drive to usher tradition into<br />
the modern era.<br />
I see it during a private visit to the Königliche<br />
Porzellan-Manufaktu (KPM) porcelain<br />
factory, which has been producing porcelain<br />
since its founding by King Frederick II of<br />
Prussia in 1763. These miniature masterpieces<br />
and their detailed decorations are still<br />
created by hand. They’re coveted not only<br />
for their exquisite quality, but also for their<br />
sustainable reputation within the home.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 69
Color explodes<br />
at Berlin's East<br />
Side Gallery.<br />
" IF YOU DIVE<br />
DEEPER BEYOND THE<br />
STEREOTYPES AND ONE-<br />
SIZE-FITS-ALL TOURS,<br />
YOU MIGHT JUST FIND<br />
YOURSELF LIKE ME<br />
— WITH SHATTERED<br />
EXPECTATIONS."<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
70 KER & DOWNEY<br />
Vegan travelers will still find<br />
plenty of elevated dining<br />
options — Berlin is Europe’s #1<br />
city for vegan cuisine.<br />
- Michael Jackson, Operations Manager<br />
I see it in the neighborhoods like those surrounding the<br />
Hackesche Höfe, where a private guide reveals traces of the old<br />
Jewish quarter. The meandering streets of the Scheunenviertel<br />
act as a canvas for Eastern European immigrants who have<br />
transformed the heart of Berlin into a visual color explosion.<br />
It’s on display from the gravesite of Moses Mendelssohn to the<br />
places of Jewish Renaissance that blossomed here during the<br />
Weimar Republic.<br />
I also see it in the food. Sausage, pretzels and beer are overshadowed<br />
by fresh, regional cuisine found in trendy hotels and<br />
bars scattered across the city, as well as family-run Riesling<br />
farms and gin distilleries popping up around the peripheries.<br />
My favorite examples are all sugar-filled: the 133-year-old<br />
chocolatier, Sawade, with its thoughtfully made hazelnut and<br />
champagne truffles, and the charmingly deconstructed Black<br />
Forest Cake of Hotel Adlon Kempinski.<br />
Of course 21st-century Berlin would turn something as familiar<br />
as chocolate cake into magic.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | GNTB/photographer Philip Koschel | Michael Jackson
If Berlin exceeded my expectations, Hamburg<br />
shattered them completely.<br />
Though Hamburg is a modern city, it feels as though<br />
it has one foot in the past. Its position on the river<br />
Elbe fortifies its role as the third largest container<br />
port in Europe while also inundating the streets and<br />
shops with new spices, flavors and ideas.<br />
Around 9,000 ship calls and 136.5 million tons of<br />
cargo per year have transformed what could have<br />
been a simple port town into a metropolis of immense<br />
wealth and global influence.<br />
The ornate exterior of City Hall, the 1920s Chilehaus,<br />
Marco Polo Tower, the UNESCO-honored<br />
Speicherstadt warehouse district and the blocks<br />
upon blocks of historic merchant meetinghouses<br />
are all reminders of Hamburg’s open-door policy<br />
to affluence and innovation. They are feasts for the<br />
architectural eye.<br />
There is also an immense respect for seafood I never<br />
saw coming.<br />
The Hamburg Fish Market, an institution since 1703,<br />
is a Sunday tradition along the shores of the Elbe.<br />
Market barkers out-scream each other. Shoppers<br />
are coaxed with the promise of free salmon as they<br />
stroll from stall to stall. Late-night revelers gorge<br />
themselves on early morning fish sandwiches. And<br />
some, like me, are just there to enjoy the lively<br />
atmosphere with views across the harbor.<br />
Hamburg's<br />
ornate City Hall<br />
The most memorable surprises for me are the<br />
velvety eel at Fischereihafen, relished as the boats<br />
floated by my window; and the elevated Japanese-Peruvian<br />
cuisine of the Fairmont Hotel Vier<br />
Jahreszeiten’s Nikkei Nine restaurant. The culinary<br />
mash-up as executed by Executive Chef Ben Dayag<br />
and Sushi Master Yuki Hamasaki introduce me to<br />
my new favorite sashimi.<br />
Knowing Hamburg’s history of global trade, it<br />
makes sense that a restaurant like this would exist.<br />
But to the average visitor, it’s the last thing you<br />
might anticipate from German cuisine.<br />
The synthesis of old and new, tradition and innovation,<br />
is what makes my time in Germany so unique.<br />
If you dive deeper beyond the stereotypes and onesize-fits-all<br />
tours, you might just find yourself like<br />
me — with shattered expectations.<br />
A seafood dish<br />
prepared at<br />
Fischereihafen<br />
KER & DOWNEY 71
GERMANY<br />
THE ULTIMATE GOURMAND’S GUIDE<br />
Move over, beer and bratwurst. During<br />
the last decade, Germany’s culinary scene<br />
has blossomed, making the country one of<br />
Europe’s most exciting foodie destinations<br />
distinguished by international influences,<br />
innovative chef-driven eateries and hyperregional<br />
cuisine.<br />
Sure, beer is firmly cemented in Germany’s<br />
cultural history — as evidenced by the<br />
country’s 1,300 breweries and the weekslong<br />
beer worship at Oktoberfest (the<br />
world’s largest folk celebration). But the<br />
land of poets and thinkers is also home to 13<br />
wine-growing regions and 300 Michelinstarred<br />
restaurants. Only France, the birthplace<br />
of haute cuisine, has more epicurean<br />
temples to its name.<br />
Germany’s spectrum of gastronomic experiences<br />
is as vast as it is surprising, whether<br />
it's centuries-old traditional dishes unique<br />
to each region, internationally-lauded<br />
menus in cosmopolitan hubs, locallyproduced<br />
beverages in rustic inns, seasonal<br />
food festivals catering to the world travelers<br />
or food-themed tourist routes for the adventurous<br />
at heart.<br />
Delve deeper into Germany with Ker &<br />
Downey’s quintessential food-lovers guide<br />
and explore every corner of the country.<br />
BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
In Stuttgart savor Maultaschen, miniature<br />
ravioli-style pasta parcels filled with<br />
meat, spinach, onion and parsley. Legend<br />
has it they were invented by monks<br />
who didn’t want to go without meat<br />
during Lent, so they secretly encased the<br />
forbidden luxury inside pasta.<br />
BAVARIA<br />
Dive into the land of lederhosen along<br />
Bavaria’s Beer and Castle Route, which<br />
introduces travelers to Germany’s history<br />
and countryside, as well as several<br />
local breweries, some with secret recipes<br />
dating back 500 years. With over 40 beer<br />
varieties and 1,000 brands each with its<br />
own unique flavor, it’s no wonder why<br />
Bavaria is known as the land of everflowing<br />
amber nectar.<br />
BRANDENBURG<br />
While in Brandenburg, be sure to gobble<br />
up the gherkins, the most famous export<br />
of the Spree Forest. The beautiful Gherkin<br />
Cycle Route is an especially thrilling<br />
way to learn about this crunchy snack,<br />
as it leads cyclists on a 160-mile journey<br />
following the entire production process<br />
from field to fork.<br />
BREMEN<br />
Enjoy a private tour of one of Bremen’s<br />
many roasting houses. Ever since 1673,<br />
when the first coffee house in a Germanspeaking<br />
country opened in Bremen, the<br />
city has exhibited an undeniable passion<br />
for the caffeinated drink and is now considered<br />
one of Europe’s premiere coffeetrading<br />
capitals.<br />
HESSEN<br />
Head to one of Frankfurt’s local cider<br />
houses for a sip of Ebbelwoi cider, the<br />
signature drink of the Hessen region.<br />
Traditionally served in a blue earthenware<br />
‘bembel’ pitcher, the cider is best enjoyed<br />
alongside hearty dishes such as pork<br />
chops, blood sausages or the regional<br />
specialty of 'Grie Soß' (green sauce).<br />
MECKLENBURG-WESTERN POMERANIA<br />
Visit Rügen Island to witness the regional<br />
sea buckthorn harvested off the coast.<br />
This thorny shrub is rich in vitamins and<br />
minerals and its orange berries are often<br />
found in local oils, juices, teas, preserves,<br />
liqueurs, wine and grog.<br />
LOWER SAXONY<br />
Embark on an epicurean tour through<br />
asparagus country. Known as the royal<br />
vegetable, this white delicacy dominates<br />
the Lower Saxony landscape, especially<br />
from March through June during asparagus<br />
harvesting season. Highlights of this<br />
route include the medieval asparagusproducing<br />
town of Burgdorf, the Asparagus<br />
Museum in Nienburg and a tour<br />
through the beautiful city of Hannover.<br />
NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA<br />
North Rhine-Westphalia produces an<br />
extensive range of beers, including<br />
kölsch from Cologne and altbier from<br />
Düsseldorf. Take part in a beer workshop<br />
and visit the brewery museum in<br />
Dortmund to learn everything there is<br />
to know about brewing beer.<br />
RHINELAND-PALATINATE<br />
Follow the German Wine Route<br />
from the famous Dürkheim<br />
Barrel in Bad Dürkheim to the<br />
German Wine Gate of Schweigen-Rechtenbach.<br />
In the<br />
country’s ancient wine region,<br />
visitors will find Riesling, Pinot<br />
Grigio and Dornfelder wines<br />
flowing on the side of the road,<br />
in tasting rooms and in numerous<br />
wine bars along the way —<br />
especially during wine festival<br />
season between mid-August<br />
and early October.<br />
SAARLAND<br />
You can’t visit Saarland without<br />
tasting the popular delicacy of<br />
Dibbelabbes, a hash of grated<br />
potato, leek, bacon and herbs<br />
and served with homemade<br />
apple sauce.<br />
SAXONY<br />
Attend Dresden’s Christmas<br />
Striezelmarkt in December for<br />
a taste of Christstollen, possibly<br />
the most famous holiday pastry<br />
in the world. This geographically<br />
protected fruit bread is<br />
produced by just 130 Dresden<br />
bakeries, each with their own<br />
top-secret family recipe.<br />
SAXONY-ANHALT<br />
Take a detour to a local dairy in<br />
Saxony-Anhalt for an introduction<br />
to Harz cheese. High<br />
in protein and low in fat, these<br />
healthy morsels have been a favorite<br />
in this region for several<br />
hundred years.<br />
SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN<br />
Home to more than 120 different<br />
varieties of artisanal cheeses,<br />
Schleswig-Holstein plays host to<br />
the Schleswig-Holstein Gourmet<br />
Festival, a 30-year old event<br />
known for attracting international<br />
Michelin-starred chefs<br />
to northern Germany between<br />
September and March each year.<br />
72 KER & DOWNEY
Asparagus and<br />
white wine<br />
Enjoying wine at<br />
Weingeniesser<br />
Chef Johannes<br />
King of Söl'ring<br />
Hof Sylt<br />
Hessische Bergstrasse<br />
wine region<br />
Photos courtesy of GNTB/Deutsches Weininstitut, Jens Wegener
EASTERN & SOUTHERN<br />
ALBANIA<br />
GEORGIA<br />
ROMANIA<br />
EUROPE<br />
ARMENIA<br />
AZERBAIJAN<br />
BOSNIA &<br />
GREECE<br />
HUNGARY<br />
ITALY<br />
RUSSIA<br />
SERBIA<br />
SLOVAKIA<br />
HERZEGOVINA<br />
MALTA<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
BULGARIA<br />
MONTENEGRO<br />
SPAIN<br />
CROATIA<br />
POLAND<br />
TURKEY<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
UKRAINE<br />
TURKEY<br />
Take in a spellbinding whirling<br />
dervish show in Cappadocia.<br />
ROMANIA<br />
View bears in the<br />
Carpathian Forest,<br />
home to over 45<br />
percent of Europe’s<br />
brown bears.<br />
74 KER & DOWNEY
SPAIN<br />
Get lost in the rhythm of flamenco at a<br />
private masterclass and performance.<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Set sail on the Volga River to discover the lesserknown<br />
villages that line its verdant banks.<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock | Elizabeth Frels | Volga Dream | Avan Dzoraget<br />
ARMENIA<br />
Stay in a medieval castle hidden<br />
away in the Caucasus Mountains.<br />
GREECE<br />
Meet the resident beekeeper of Nafplio<br />
and taste his award-winning honey.
El Alhambra in Granada
SPANISH<br />
STEPS<br />
Ker & Downey’s Rina Chandarana<br />
journeys to Seville and Granada<br />
and discovers the heart of<br />
Andalusia, a vibrant fusion of<br />
Spanish and Moorish cultures.<br />
“keep going,” encouraged a determined<br />
traveler, striding up the stairs<br />
ahead of me. I looked back, panting and<br />
saw the red-roofed city below.<br />
There are easier ways to get to the imposing<br />
13th century Alhambra, a Moorish<br />
fortress, the jewel in Granada’s crown. I<br />
chose the well-worn scenic route, which<br />
was also a step back in time.<br />
Starting in the year 711, the ruling North<br />
African sultans referred to this area as<br />
Al-Andalus and the Alhambra is their<br />
greatest legacy. Stone walls adorned with<br />
exquisite tiled patterns burst with color<br />
and Arabic calligraphy. All the detailed<br />
archways are perfectly symmetrical — a<br />
mathematical masterpiece.<br />
I wandered the manicured gardens, dotted<br />
with shimmering reflective pools,<br />
soaring palms and bubbling fountains.<br />
The snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountains<br />
lay in the distance. It’s no wonder<br />
why the Moors wanted to stay.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 77
T<br />
he UNESCO World Heritage Site peeks between<br />
the maze of slender cobblestone lanes that wind<br />
up higher between white-washed homes, convents<br />
and churches of the Albayzin neighborhood.<br />
A Gitano musician strums on a guitar, his<br />
raspy, passionate song wafting into the chilly air. Brooding<br />
clouds add a moody magic. Spain cast its spell on me, and I<br />
am totally enthralled.<br />
That evening, I climbed another hill (there are many in<br />
Granada) to get to Sacromonte, Granada's flamenco mecca.<br />
When the Gitanos first arrived from India centuries ago<br />
they carved out simple caves in the soft rock. The moonlit<br />
Alhambra, a constant companion, shimmered across<br />
the valley. The faint sound of music leads me into a cave.<br />
Copper spoons and pots — a reminder that this was once<br />
someone’s home — dangle from the ceiling.<br />
Musicians bang on drums and sing. Dancers shout “Ole!”,<br />
their frilly skirts morphing into a blur of color as they spin,<br />
and feet are electric with clacking and stomping. Shiny<br />
black hair is pinned with decorative combs, ruby red roses<br />
and fans. The atmosphere is charged with a powerful and<br />
infectious energy. One woman pulls me up and I attempt<br />
to mimic her snapping fingers. I don’t even understand<br />
Spanish, but I’m completely caught up in the moment.<br />
A local flamenco<br />
dancer performing<br />
in Granada<br />
White-washed<br />
homes at sunset<br />
78 KER & DOWNEY
View of Seville<br />
from the Cathedral<br />
Photos courtesy of iStock<br />
A<br />
lthough there’s no shortage<br />
of architectural stunners<br />
in Seville, its main<br />
draw is the 10th century<br />
Alcazar, a palace still inhabited<br />
by the royal family. Southern<br />
Spain is a Mudejar treasure trove,<br />
Islamic and Christian architectural<br />
styles merging in a beyond-beautiful<br />
blend. Intricate plasterwork and<br />
delicately painted azulejo tiles add<br />
decorative flourishes.<br />
Turn to any page of “The Arabian<br />
Nights” and the Alcazar would fit<br />
perfectly into its stories of princesses,<br />
palaces and far-away lands. Thinking<br />
of this I drifted into a fairytale garden,<br />
my path interrupted by colorful,<br />
proud peacocks.<br />
The massive Seville Cathedral is the<br />
city’s focal point and sits on the site<br />
of a former mosque. Bright oranges<br />
bulge from the inner courtyard’s<br />
trees. This hallowed building houses<br />
the remains of Christopher Columbus,<br />
whose travels amassed overflowing<br />
wealth for Seville. I repeatedly craned<br />
my neck up to see an even more stirring<br />
azulejo-tiled depiction of a tearful<br />
Mary, the Esperanza de Triana.<br />
After Granada’s leg workout, I sacrificed<br />
myself again and jolted up the<br />
35 ramps of the Giralda, the minaret<br />
-turned-bell tower, to get a beautiful<br />
view of Seville’s blue skies, church<br />
domes and bright homes.<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Sevillanos linger alfresco over tapas.<br />
Pale green olives burst in my mouth<br />
with tangy delight. Cortado coffee, a<br />
bold espresso, was far stronger and<br />
tastier than anything back home.<br />
Lightly spiced chickpeas tucked into<br />
spinach, crispy toasts topped with<br />
tomato marmalade and glasses of<br />
red wine were the day’s fuel. I refuse<br />
to admit just how many napolitana<br />
de chocolate croissants I ate. Maybe<br />
my legs were tired from exploring<br />
so much of southern Spain, but my<br />
senses and my taste buds were happy<br />
as Andalusia softly sang to my heart.<br />
Go during the weeks leading up<br />
to Easter when large floats and<br />
processions are being prepared<br />
and the weather is just right.<br />
- Rina Chandarana, Marketing and<br />
Content Assistant<br />
KER & DOWNEY 79
SOUTH<br />
PACIFIC<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
FIJI<br />
FRENCH POLYNESIA<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
PAPUA NEW GUINEA<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
Enjoy a private cruise of the<br />
Marlborough Sounds aboard<br />
the MV Tarquin.<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
Sample the wines of Valli Vineyards<br />
in Central Otago, South Island.<br />
Photos courtesy of Valli Vineyards | Park Hyatt Sydney | Arnhemland Safaris.,Tourism Australia | Kauri Cliffs | Rob Suisted<br />
80 KER & DOWNEY
AUSTRALIA<br />
Explore Sydney Harbor from the waterfront<br />
and the luxurious Park Hyatt.<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
Take a private technical lesson<br />
with a golf pro on the greens at<br />
Kauri Cliffs on North Island.<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Discover 50,000 years of indigenous<br />
history through the stories depicted<br />
in Aboriginal rock art.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 81
Tahiti sunset<br />
TAHITI<br />
The biggest French Polynesian island delivers<br />
surreal sunsets with silhouettes of swaying<br />
palms and peaked islets against a pink and<br />
purple-streaked sky. It may be a dot in the<br />
vast Pacific, but its natural beauty and cultural<br />
contributions are boundless. Enjoy a delicious<br />
dinner with the sizzling sunset backdrop as<br />
traditional Tahitian dancers shake their hips<br />
in frilly skirts and elaborate headpieces. Their<br />
coordinated dance performances are energetic<br />
and accompanied by fast drum beats.
SOUTH PACIFIC<br />
ESCAPES<br />
It’s time you had some of the best island<br />
experiences on earth. By Rina Chandarana<br />
New Zealand, Hawaii, Easter Island, Tahiti and so many of<br />
the South Pacific islands have offered inspiration and escape for<br />
centuries. Brimming with natural beauty, the islands are home<br />
to ancient cultures and a soulful way of life that is deeply connected<br />
to the rhythms of the world’s vastest ocean. There are<br />
plenty of reasons to lose yourself in these island idylls.<br />
Marquesas Islands<br />
MARQUESAS ISLANDS<br />
The Marquesas are just about as far-flung as you can get with barely a footprint on their white<br />
sand beaches, lush jungles and clear, calm lagoons. Once you arrive, you will feel like you have<br />
discovered paradise. Jump into a 4-wheel-drive vehicle and explore the winding coast before<br />
visiting an archaeological site in Puamau on the tip of Hiva Oa where unique Tiki statues were<br />
unearthed. Takai is the tallest known Polynesian stone.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 83
EASTER ISLAND<br />
There aren’t many places that feel as<br />
completely detached from the rest of<br />
the planet as Easter Island, or Rapa<br />
Nui, as it is known. The inhabited<br />
island, with a population under<br />
6,000 is one of the most isolated in<br />
the world. The allure of seeing the<br />
massive stone statues, called moai,<br />
draws adventure seekers to this<br />
remote spot. Some of the moai stand<br />
32 feet tall, and there are at least 900<br />
of them scattered around the island.<br />
Explore the archaeological and anthropological<br />
sites and enjoy a picnic<br />
in the shadow of the looming figures.<br />
PRO<br />
TIP!<br />
Plan ahead to go to Easter Island<br />
in February when the Tapati<br />
Festival recreates ancient royal<br />
traditions. - Catherine Brown, Designer<br />
Moai on<br />
Easter island<br />
84 KER & DOWNEY
Traditional<br />
lei making in<br />
Hawaii<br />
HAWAII<br />
When the Polynesians<br />
arrived in Hawaii,<br />
they brought their<br />
food, medicines and<br />
tradition of making<br />
leis. Learn how to<br />
make these wreaths<br />
of flowers and vines<br />
often given to visitors<br />
as a symbol of peace<br />
and greeting.<br />
Te Puia, Rotorua<br />
Photos courtesy of Tahiti Tourisme | New Zealand Tourism, Julian-Apse | iStock<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
There’s a serene feeling among the lofty trees near Tane Mahuta, God of the Forest, a giant kauri tree estimated<br />
to be between 1,250 and 2,500 years old. Cape Regina, the northernmost tip of New Zealand’s North Island is<br />
considered a spiritual place for the Maori who believe that it’s where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld.<br />
Feel immersed in Maori culture in the Te Whakearewarewa Thermal Valley of Rotorua, a wonderland of<br />
gushing waters, steaming vents, boiling mud pools and spectacular geysers. Follow a Treetops Lodge & Estate<br />
chef on a Maori food trail followed by a delicious lunch.<br />
KER & DOWNEY 85
JOURNEYS<br />
Ker & Downey's Top Itineraries<br />
Rome, Italy<br />
86 KER & DOWNEY
CULINARY JOURNEYS<br />
ITINERARY<br />
A TASTE OF ITALY<br />
10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />
This is Ker & Downey’s quintessential Italy food and<br />
wine tour, plating up the finest culinary delights and<br />
bottled vintages from Tuscany, Rome and Sorrento.<br />
With luxury villa accommodations, expert guides and<br />
exclusive hands-on cooking classes, you will savor every<br />
last drop of Italy’s delectable art, culture and cuisine.<br />
SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />
DAY 1-3: TUSCANY | VILLA SAN PAOLO<br />
DAY 4-6: ROME | PARK HOTEL VILLA GRAZIOLI<br />
DAY 7-10: SORRENTO | GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE<br />
KER & DOWNEY 87
WELLNESS JOURNEYS<br />
ITINERARY<br />
KOREAN WELLNESS RETREAT<br />
7 DAYS / 6 NIGHTS<br />
The legendary healing arts and beauty treatments of<br />
Korea are yours to enjoy with Ker & Downey. Indulge<br />
in treatments at the country’s best spas, soak in the<br />
natural beauty of Jeju Island and go behind the scenes<br />
with top beauty brands alongside your private guide.<br />
SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />
DAY 1: SEOUL | ORAKAI HOTEL<br />
DAY 2-3: JEJU ISLAND | WE HOTEL<br />
DAY 4-7: SEOUL | NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR<br />
SEOUL YONGSANG<br />
88 KER & DOWNEY
SOUTH KOREA<br />
A Wonderful Land<br />
of Contrasts<br />
Photo of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul<br />
Seoul is a thriving modern city that embraces its traditional past. It is amazing to walk through<br />
this great 600 year old city and discover Buddhist Temples and Royal Palaces nestled among<br />
sleek, high-rise buildings, creating serene oases in the midst of vibrant city life. The rest of<br />
this country also has wonderful places to behold. From the mountains in PyeongChang, which<br />
hosted the 2018 Winter Olympics, to the bustling beaches at Busan, to the quieter and naturally<br />
lush UNESCO World Natural Heritage Jeju Island, Korea has something for everyone.<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include South Korea in your next custom journey.<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM
ROMANCE/HONEYMOON<br />
ITINERARY<br />
BALI LUXURY HONEYMOON<br />
10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />
The Island of the Gods beckons on this 10-day<br />
Bali luxury honeymoon, the ultimate romantic<br />
escape. From the rice paddies of Ubud to the private<br />
beaches of the Lombok Strait, Ker & Downey has<br />
gathered all of Bali’s most breathtaking resorts and<br />
secluded hideaways to create what you will no doubt<br />
remember as the honeymoon of a lifetime.<br />
SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />
DAY 1-3: UBUD | VICEROY BALI<br />
DAY 4-6: CANDIDASA | AMANKILA<br />
DAY 7-10: JIMBARAN | AYANA RESORT<br />
90 KER & DOWNEY
ESCAPE TO<br />
Bali<br />
Viceroy Bali is a family-owned<br />
luxury hotel, featuring 25 stunning<br />
private pool villas that offer<br />
absolute privacy and unparalleled<br />
jungle valley views. Located five<br />
minutes from the center of Ubud,<br />
the villas are complemented by<br />
5-star facilities, including a worldclass<br />
spa, fine dining restaurants<br />
and private helipad.<br />
V<br />
Viceroy Bali<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />
Viceroy Bali in your next custom journey.<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM
ACTIVE/ADVENTURE<br />
ITINERARY<br />
ECUADOR:<br />
THE AMAZON AND ANDES<br />
10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />
The countryside of Ecuador comes to life on this<br />
picturesque ten-day journey. Discover the rural<br />
villages outside of Quito and the Amazon’s lush jungle,<br />
and end at the doorstep of the Andean Highlands.<br />
SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />
DAY 1: QUITO | CASA GANGOTENA<br />
DAY 2-4: OTAVALO | HACIENDA ZULETA<br />
DAY 5-6: AMAZON | HAMADRYADE LODGE<br />
DAY 7: QUITO | CASA GANGOTENA<br />
DAY 8-10: COTOPAXI | HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO<br />
92 KER & DOWNEY
EXPLORE<br />
QUITO<br />
CASA GANGOTENA<br />
There it awaits: a meticulously renovated colonial<br />
mansion in the heart of Quito’s Historic Downtown.<br />
Elegant. Stately. Grand. Reserved.<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />
Casa Gangotena in your next custom journey.<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM
LUXURY SAFARI<br />
ITINERARY<br />
A LUXURY KALAHARI SAFARI<br />
13DAYS / 12NIGHTS<br />
Exclusivity is the quintessential hallmark of this<br />
stunning 13-day luxury Kalahari safari through<br />
South Africa. Experience the finest boutique<br />
accommodations and most coveted corners of natural<br />
beauty from Cape Town and Hermanus in the south to<br />
the Kalahari and Madikwe in the north.<br />
SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />
DAY 1-4: CAPE TOWN | ELLERMAN HOUSE<br />
DAY 5-7: HERMANUS | GROOTBOS GARDEN LODGE<br />
DAY 8-10: KALAHARI | TSWALU KALAHARI<br />
DAY 11-13: MADIKWE GAME RESERVE |<br />
MATEYA SAFARI LODGE<br />
94 KER & DOWNEY
LUXURY SAFARI IN<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TSWALU KALAHARI<br />
Tswalu guests are in search of rarity, adventure, privacy and inspirational travel.<br />
This extraordinary property provides all of these and more.<br />
With the emphasis on privacy and exclusivity, guests take pleasure in an authentic African wildlife<br />
experience while they are exposed to the wonders of the Kalahari ecosystem and Tswalu’s conservation<br />
vision. Expect to see some of Africa’s rarest and most extraordinary wildlife — including black-maned<br />
lions, African wild dogs and pangolins — and to enjoy the flexibility of the safari experience with a<br />
private vehicle, guide, and tracker.<br />
A variety of game-viewing experiences includes game drives, guided bush walks, horseback safaris and<br />
bird watching. Spend time with colonies of habituated meerkats; book a night under the Kalahari sky<br />
at the Malori sleep-out deck; or indulge in some pampering at the Safari Spa. Visit the site of some of<br />
the oldest Bushman rock engravings in Africa. Or take a helicopter flip to learn more about Tswalu’s<br />
conservation efforts, and enjoy a private picnic on the peaks of the Korannaberg Mountains.<br />
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />
Tswalu Kalahari in your next custom journey.<br />
+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM
THE<br />
SHOT<br />
ONE PICTURE, ONE MOMENT,<br />
ONE MEMORY CAPTURED BY<br />
PHOTOGRAPHER MARK<br />
EDWARD HARRIS<br />
I based myself in La Paz on Mexico’s<br />
Baja Peninsula for an extended weekend<br />
photographing gray whales and diving<br />
with whale sharks. Both were incredible<br />
experiences but for very different<br />
reasons. One thing a still camera can’t<br />
record is the sounds of the whales<br />
blowing air out of their blowholes. At<br />
times we were surrounded by whales,<br />
and they put on a magnificent symphony.<br />
Diving with whale sharks was<br />
a very different (but just as intense)<br />
experience. To be only a few feet away<br />
from these magnificent 18- to 33-foot<br />
creatures effortlessly gliding through<br />
the water was humbling to say the least.<br />
For this gray whale off the coast of Lopez<br />
Mateo photograph, I used a Nikkor<br />
300mm f/2.8 lens on my Nikon D850<br />
set to 1/3200th of a second at f/10, ISO<br />
200. Long lenses and fast shutter speeds<br />
are the name of the game when photographing<br />
most animals in the wild.<br />
While in La Paz I made a pilgrimage to<br />
Sorstis, my favorite restaurant in Baja.<br />
One cannot live by photography alone.<br />
Mark Edward Harris’ assignments have taken him to 98<br />
countries on six continents. His editorial work has appeared<br />
in publications such as Vanity Fair, Life, Time, GEO, Conde<br />
Nast Traveler, AFAR, as well as all the major photography<br />
and in-flight magazines. His commercial clients range from<br />
The Gap to Coca-Cola to Mexicana Airlines. He is the recipient<br />
of numerous awards including a CLIO, ACE, Aurora<br />
Gold, and Photographer of the Year at the Black & White<br />
Spider Awards. His books include Faces of the Twentieth<br />
Century: Master Photographers and Their Work, The Way of<br />
the Japanese Bath, Wanderlust, North Korea, South Korea,<br />
and Inside Iran. www.MarkEdwardHarris.com<br />
@MarkEdwardHarrisPhoto<br />
96 KER & DOWNEY
MALARIA KILLS MORE THAN ONE MILLION PEOPLE EACH YEAR,<br />
WITH 90% OF THEM OCCURRING IN SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA. 75%<br />
OF THESE DEATHS OCCUR IN CHILDREN UNDER 5 .<br />
OUR GOAL<br />
TO PROVIDE 18,000 NETS TO COMMUNITIES TO HELP REDUCE THE<br />
RISK OF LIFE-THREATENING DISEASES<br />
DONATE<br />
FOR EVERY NET PURCHASED KER & DOWNEY WILL DONATE A NET.<br />
DONATE SECURELY ON OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM AND<br />
TYPE “NETS FOR AFRICA” UNDER ADD SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS<br />
TO THE SELLER.<br />
TOGETHER WE CAN STOP THE STING OF MOSQUITO BITES
EXPERIENTIAL.<br />
LUXURY.<br />
TRAVEL.<br />
Kingston treehouse at Lion Sands<br />
Forget group tours, long lines or packaged experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored<br />
fit, and our artist’s signature is threaded throughout. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and<br />
exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill<br />
of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.<br />
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT US ON THE WEB AT<br />
KERDOWNEY.COM | INFO@KERDOWNEY.COM | 800.423.4236<br />
THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS KERDOWNEY.COM