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THE TRAVELOG<br />

ASIA AFRICA EUROPE LATIN AMERICA NORTH AMERICA SOUTH PACIFIC MIDDLE EAST


WHY TRAVEL WITH KER & DOWNEY<br />

The heart of the matter when traveling with Ker &<br />

Downey is more than just traveling in luxury and<br />

style: it’s all about those little ineffable moments,<br />

beholding the beauty of the world the way you<br />

always imagined. These experiential moments<br />

— a breath of fresh mountain air, the rush of<br />

adrenaline, the peace of a calm beach, the taste of<br />

a new cuisine — whatever it may be for you, you’ll<br />

know it when you experience it. And it comes<br />

standard on every Ker & Downey journey.<br />

2 KER & DOWNEY


TAKING AIR TO NEW HEIGHTS<br />

When reserving your custom land arrangements<br />

with Ker & Downey, please ask about our<br />

incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with<br />

the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious<br />

journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain<br />

premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage<br />

where available and get the peace of mind of<br />

lenient cancellation policies.<br />

CARRIERS<br />

AIR FRANCE<br />

ALITALIA<br />

AMERICAN AIRLINES<br />

BRITISH AIRWAYS<br />

CATHAY PACIFIC<br />

DELTA<br />

EMIRATES<br />

KLM<br />

LATAM AIRLINES<br />

QATAR AIRWAYS<br />

ROYAL AIR MAROC<br />

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS<br />

SINGAPORE AIRLINES<br />

TURKISH AIRWAYS<br />

VIRGIN ATLANTIC<br />

VIRGIN AUSTRALIA<br />

British Airways<br />

KER & DOWNEY 3


A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT<br />

There have been several studies in recent years on vacations and<br />

the effect they have on quality of life. There have even been studies<br />

on how the act of just planning a trip affects quality of life. Researchers<br />

are finding that people experience a significant boost in<br />

happiness during the planning stages of the trip because they are<br />

looking forward to the good times they’ll have and the break from<br />

the everyday routine.<br />

I know from my own experience, new surroundings and a few days<br />

away from the office do wonders for my mental state and overall<br />

happiness, clearing my head and giving me a chance to focus on<br />

other things.<br />

That’s the key — you actually have to take the vacation. You can’t just plan it. In this issue<br />

of <strong>QUEST</strong>, we’ve got tons of ideas for your next journey — whether you have three days, or<br />

three weeks.<br />

For those short on time, Haley Beham has you covered with exactly what to do in Guatemala<br />

with only 72 hours. For those who prefer to stay close to home, Katy Heerssen takes us on<br />

a grand tour of some the United States’ most iconic cities. And for those looking to travel a<br />

little farther, Rina Chandarana takes us on a journey to enchanting Seville and Granada.<br />

Our designers are no strangers to the ‘out of office’ message. In this issue, you’ll also find<br />

inspiration from their trips to Uganda, Botswana, Chile and Germany. Zimbabwe is undergoing<br />

a transformation as it strives to regain its status as a premier safari destination. A<br />

safari there should definitely be on your radar. While you’re planning for safari, boost your<br />

wildlife photography skills with detailed tips in the Guide section of <strong>QUEST</strong>.<br />

Don’t just plan the trip, take the journey. We’re here to help.<br />

Contact us at luxury@kerdowney.com.<br />

David Marek<br />

President<br />

4 KER & DOWNEY


WHAT'S NEW<br />

THE<br />

LATEST TRAVELS AND EXPERIENCES<br />

FROM OUR DESIGNERS<br />

TIFFANY DESALVO<br />

Where were you last?<br />

Slovenia<br />

What was your most amazing<br />

experience?<br />

Rafting the jade-colored Soca<br />

River and being surrounded<br />

by the beautiful mountain<br />

scenery. Dining at Hisa<br />

Franko after the adventure<br />

was a close second.<br />

What would you recommend<br />

from your trip?<br />

Visit the family-run wineries<br />

in the charming region of<br />

Goriska Barda. Book a suite<br />

at Vila Istra to watch the sunrise over Lake Bled<br />

while you sip your morning coffee.<br />

MJ ERACI<br />

Where were you last?<br />

Northern Kenya<br />

What was your most amazing<br />

experience?<br />

The helicopter flight in<br />

northern Laikipia had<br />

amazing views. We landed<br />

on a cliff for our sundowner.<br />

What would you recommend<br />

from your trip?<br />

Don’t get caught up in your<br />

phone or camera. Just watch,<br />

listen and observe. You’ll see<br />

amazing things.<br />

HOT TOPIC:<br />

IT’S CONGO TIME!<br />

An African safari is always a good idea, especially<br />

if it’s in the Republic of Congo. We’ve got three<br />

reasons why it should be on your travel radar.<br />

GORILLAS<br />

Take a trek in Odzala-Kokoua National Park in search of lowland<br />

gorillas. Watch the endangered species parade through the<br />

jungle and feel like the only person on Earth in this far-flung<br />

region of Africa.<br />

WILDLIFE<br />

Beyond the primates, there’s a magnificent range of animal life.<br />

Think toothy crocs, forest elephants and a pandemonium of<br />

African grey parrots that gather to bathe, sip water and swoop<br />

through the air in the open savannahs and swamps.<br />

Sleep amongst<br />

wildlife at<br />

Ngaga Camp.<br />

RAINFORESTS<br />

Thick and lush rainforests sprawl over 80 percent of the country,<br />

which makes it the second largest on the planet after the<br />

Amazon. The lungs of the world are pretty amazing, aren’t they?<br />

KER & DOWNEY 5


CONTENTS<br />

8<br />

GIVING BACK<br />

Travel that gives back<br />

across the globe<br />

10<br />

ARRIVALS<br />

Openings, revamps and<br />

the latest travel news<br />

18<br />

THE GUIDE<br />

Insider secrets of<br />

luxury travel<br />

96<br />

THE SHOT<br />

One memory captured<br />

by photographer<br />

Mark Edward Harris<br />

86<br />

JOURNEYS<br />

Top itineraries from<br />

Ker & Downey<br />

pg. 88<br />

87<br />

88<br />

90<br />

92<br />

94<br />

CULINARY JOURNEYS<br />

WELLNESS JOURNEYS<br />

ROMANCE/HONEYMOON<br />

ACTIVE/ADVENTURE<br />

LUXURY SAFARI


DESTINATIONS<br />

24<br />

EAST AFRICA<br />

30<br />

SOUTHERN AFRICA<br />

38<br />

NORTH AFRICA &<br />

MIDDLE EAST<br />

44<br />

ASIA<br />

50<br />

NORTH AMERICA<br />

FEATURES<br />

26<br />

UGANDA FOREVER<br />

32<br />

AFRICA’S SAFARI<br />

DARLING<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

40<br />

DESERT DREAMS<br />

EGYPT<br />

46<br />

OUTSIDE LANDS<br />

JAPAN<br />

52<br />

SOUTHERN COMFORT<br />

LOUISIANA, TENNESSEE<br />

AND KENTUCKY<br />

EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />

MARTINE BURY<br />

COPY EDITORS<br />

ELIZABETH FRELS<br />

KATY HEERSSEN<br />

VANESSA NIVEN<br />

ART DIRECTION<br />

& DESIGN<br />

AMY WILLIS<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

EDITORS<br />

NICKY BRANDON<br />

DAVID MAREK<br />

WRITERS<br />

HALEY BEHAM<br />

MARTINE BURY<br />

RINA CHANDARANA<br />

ELIZABETH FRELS<br />

KATY HEERSSEN<br />

PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

AUSTIN MANN<br />

MARK EDWARD HARRIS<br />

ON THE COVER:<br />

Swimming in a waterfall<br />

pool in Lihue, Kauai<br />

Credit: Hawaii Tourism<br />

Authority (HTA) /<br />

Tommy Lundberg<br />

56<br />

LATIN AMERICA<br />

66<br />

EUROPE<br />

NORTHERN & WESTERN<br />

74<br />

EUROPE<br />

EASTERN & SOUTHERN<br />

80<br />

SOUTH PACIFIC<br />

58<br />

QUICK TRIP<br />

GUATEMALA<br />

62<br />

SALT OF THE EARTH<br />

CHILE<br />

68<br />

GREAT UN-EXPECTATIONS<br />

GERMANY<br />

76<br />

SPANISH STEPS<br />

SPAIN<br />

82<br />

SOUTH PACIFIC ESCAPES<br />

TAHITI, MARQUESAS ISLANDS,<br />

NEW ZEALAND, EASTER<br />

ISLAND AND HAWAII<br />

LET’S<br />

CONNECT<br />

ON THE WEB<br />

kerdowney.com<br />

questkerdowney.com<br />

FACEBOOK<br />

facebook.com/<br />

KerandDowney<br />

TWITTER/<br />

INSTAGRAM<br />

@kerdowney<br />

PHONE<br />

800.423.4236<br />

+1.281.371.2500<br />

EMAIL<br />

luxury@kerdowney.com<br />

KER & DOWNEY 7


GIVING BACK<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

CAMBODIA<br />

ECUADOR<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

When you travel with Ker & Downey, you become a force for<br />

good across the globe. These are some of the initiatives and<br />

partnerships we’re proud to support.<br />

EAST AFRICA<br />

WILDAID<br />

We encourage the mission of<br />

WildAid as a travel partner and<br />

a sponsor of stateside events.<br />

Recently WildAid partnered<br />

with the Mara Elephant Project,<br />

which protects Kenyan<br />

elephants at risk from poaching<br />

through collaring and monitoring.<br />

In Asia, WildAid continues<br />

campaigns to end the ivory<br />

trade by reducing the demand.<br />

ECUADOR<br />

Our clients traveling to South<br />

America support the Ker &<br />

Downey Education Fund at the<br />

Galo Plaza Lasso Foundation,<br />

which underwrites the foundation's<br />

library programs, three<br />

school scholarships and an<br />

annual summer camp for close<br />

to 60 kids in remote Andean<br />

communities. The organization<br />

provides aid — via education,<br />

conservation and community<br />

development projects — to underserved<br />

rural areas.<br />

Photos courtesy of Mara Elephant Project | Galo Plaza Lasso<br />

Foundation | AboutAsia Schools | David Marek | Grootbos<br />

Private Nature Reserve<br />

8 KER & DOWNEY


EAST AFRICA<br />

Ker & Downey is heading to Uganda<br />

to continue to provide thousands<br />

of Ugandans with malaria nets and<br />

medical care through Nets for Africa.<br />

Our company matches the donation<br />

for every net purchased, helping us<br />

stop the sting of mosquito bites.<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Having planted 385 trees since 2013 and another 600 on the<br />

way, the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve’s efforts make it<br />

easier to fill your lungs with fresh air. The Grootbos Foundation<br />

plants a tree for every Ker & Downey client going to<br />

South Africa, making this biodiverse region an easy choice<br />

for an eco-conscious traveler.<br />

CAMBODIA<br />

A portion of every custom Cambodia journey goes<br />

to ABOUTAsia, an organization providing muchneeded<br />

programs. So far, close to 53,000 children<br />

across 110 schools have received school supplies.<br />

Recently, our donations went directly to local<br />

libraries and funded life-sustaining water wells in<br />

local communities.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 9


ARRIVALS<br />

Openings, Revamps and the Latest Travel News<br />

SHIPWRECK LODGE, NAMIBIA<br />

With a striking minimalist design meant to evoke shipwrecked wooden boats, this modern marvel sits landlocked between two<br />

rivers in Skeleton Coast Park. Mingle with other guests on the wraparound deck for uninterrupted views across the sand. Roam<br />

the dunes and enjoy an evening sundowner on the stark coast, dotted with abandoned diamond mines, ghostly boats and seal<br />

colonies. Believe it or not, desert-adapted elephants and lions roam the hostile landscape too. It is a safari like no other.<br />

10 KER & DOWNEY<br />

BY RINA CHANDARANA & MARTINE BURY


AFRICA<br />

Photos courtesy of Shipwreck Lodge; Shawn van Eeden | Machaba | The Retreat | Singita<br />

LITTLE MACHABA, BOTSWANA<br />

This camp is vintage chic, channeling classic<br />

1950s style. Four luxury tents are connected<br />

by decks that meander through the trees.<br />

Game viewing is a cinch from your private<br />

tent overlooking a floodplain — a hot spot for<br />

elephants roaming through the golden grass.<br />

If you ever tire of walking safaris and gliding<br />

in mokoros (which we doubt), unwind even<br />

more by lounging near the pool or indulging<br />

with a massage and facial.<br />

THE RETREAT,<br />

RWANDA<br />

Eat a traditional meal<br />

with a Rwandan family,<br />

pick out colorful fabrics<br />

in the market or spend<br />

time with a farmer. This<br />

Kigali-based, 11-room<br />

property expertly eases<br />

guests into the groove<br />

of local living. Every<br />

design detail sticks to<br />

the ethos of “made in<br />

Rwanda,” from the<br />

furniture built with<br />

locally-sourced teak to<br />

farm-to-fork meals to<br />

strong Rwandan coffee.<br />

SINGITA PAMUSHANA, ZIMBABWE<br />

Following a top-to-bottom renovation by design<br />

team Cécile & Boyd, Singita’s classic lodge is open<br />

and takes African design to new heights with a<br />

muted palette, modern finishes and well-edited,<br />

global touches. Eight luxury suites — each boasting<br />

two en suite bedrooms — and one five-bedroom<br />

villa brim with local textures. Perched on a sandstone<br />

ridge overlooking the Malilangwe Dam, the<br />

lodge offers the best seat in the house, perfect for<br />

taking in the sights and sounds of birds and beasts<br />

of the surrounding private wildlife reserve.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 11


AFRICA<br />

MAPULA LODGE, BOTSWANA<br />

This blissfully uncrowded, nine-tented<br />

camp is enveloped by a world of glassy lagoons<br />

and palm-fringed islands. Elephants<br />

and hippos feel right at home in this remote<br />

corner of Botswana in the Okavango Delta’s<br />

northwest region. Having recently undergone<br />

a facelift, the camp is packed with<br />

character: chic brass lanterns, Malawi<br />

chairs, quirky elephant lamps and royal red<br />

rugs. Soak in the swimming pool just like<br />

the hippos do in the adjacent lagoon.<br />

BLUE SAFARI,<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

There are very few places<br />

left on earth that feel as<br />

pristine and untouched<br />

by mankind as these<br />

72 sparsely-populated<br />

coral islands dotting the<br />

furthest reaches of the<br />

Indian Ocean. Lucky<br />

for us, the Astove Coral<br />

House, Alphonse Island<br />

Lodge and Cosmoledo<br />

Eco Camp make it easy<br />

to feel like a castaway<br />

living luxe. Unwind<br />

in the spa, dive into<br />

the turquoise sea and<br />

dine on freshly-caught<br />

seafood alfresco in this<br />

faraway paradise.<br />

SOSSUS UNDER CANVAS, NAMIBIA<br />

A natural granite amphitheater protects eight spacious<br />

tents from the elements. Sustainable recycled<br />

materials blend beautifully into the earthy surroundings,<br />

while power is generated from the sun. The<br />

camp has the lowest environmental footprint of any<br />

in the country, which bolsters the preservation of the<br />

dramatic Great Namib Sand Sea — a haunting space<br />

where antelopes dash, kicking red dune powder into<br />

the air. Treading on silent, shifting sands and sleeping<br />

under the inky starlit sky is an experience you won't<br />

soon to forget.<br />

Photos courtesy of Blue Safari | Mapula Lodge | Sossus Under Canvas | The Ritz Carlton Residences | Belmond | Futangue Hotel & Spa<br />

12 KER & DOWNEY


AROUND THE WORLD<br />

THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES,<br />

WAIKIKI BEACH, HAWAII<br />

Stay awhile at Oahu’s first Ritz-Carlton resort,<br />

which has just completed a major expansion<br />

with the addition of swank Diamond Head<br />

Tower. Guests have the chance to truly live like<br />

a kama'aina (local) in residential-style accommodations,<br />

with the bonus of a world-class<br />

spa, Waikiki’s highest infinity pool and Sushi<br />

Sho — acclaimed Japanese sushi master Keiji<br />

Nakazawa’s private, 10-seat omakase-style<br />

eatery where the chef creates culinary treats<br />

just for you. Perfect for families with children<br />

who don’t want to sacrifice an ounce of luxury,<br />

custom orders can be placed with a highend<br />

grocery store, so snacks tailored to the<br />

needs of little ones are at your beck and call. In<br />

the heart of the action, dive into Waikiki’s famous<br />

beaches with views of Diamond Head or<br />

explore world-famous shops and restaurants.<br />

Venture out to the island’s legendary jewels<br />

like the North Shore or the wild, uncrowded<br />

west side where you can swim in natural pools,<br />

play in waterfalls, hike through jungles and<br />

experience rich Polynesian history.<br />

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL,<br />

ENGLAND History and literary buffs<br />

will be delighted tracing the steps of Oscar<br />

Wilde and the kings of England — all<br />

esteemed guests of this lovingly restored,<br />

Queen Anne-style property. Standing<br />

proud between the fashionable Chelsea and<br />

Knightsbridge neighborhoods, the property’s<br />

54 rooms are dashing, tailored, intimate<br />

and complete with a fireplace, which is a<br />

nice, toasty treat on a drizzly London day.<br />

FUTANGUE HOTEL & SPA,<br />

CHILE If getting as far away as possible is<br />

your goal, then Chile’s Futangue Hotel & Spa is<br />

a natural choice. Colorful textiles and objects<br />

inspired by the Mapuche culture are visual additions,<br />

making you feel right at home in one<br />

of 26 rooms smack dab in the middle of northern<br />

Patagonia’s lakes, rainforests and volcanoes.<br />

Trek the day away and then succumb to<br />

utter relaxation in the spa.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 13


AROUND THE WORLD<br />

ROSEWOOD BANGKOK,<br />

THAILAND<br />

With so many superb properties to<br />

choose from in one of Asia’s most<br />

frenetic cities, the ultra-luxe Rosewood<br />

hotel is poised to be on every<br />

hot list for 2019. Comprised of two<br />

high-rise buildings shaped like a<br />

traditional hand gesture greeting, the<br />

new property symbolizes Thai hospitality.<br />

Plunge pools and large terraces<br />

are private retreats, away from the<br />

hustle and bustle of the fast-paced<br />

hub. Savor delicious meals in one of<br />

three restaurants and indulge with<br />

cocktails at the bar.<br />

SIX SENSES KRABEY<br />

ISLAND, CAMBODIA<br />

Cambodia’s siren call is<br />

beckoning us to its powdery<br />

sand beaches and crystalline<br />

seas. Dip into one of the 40<br />

standalone pool villas set on a<br />

30-acre private island paradise.<br />

Budding chefs can join a cooking<br />

class and learn how to whip<br />

up some delicious Indochineinspired<br />

cuisine. Detach from<br />

the world you left behind in the<br />

spa, focusing on Cambodian<br />

healing traditions.<br />

Photos courtesy of Bairro Alto Hotel | COMO Hotels and Resorts | Infinity Luxury Yacht | Six Senses | iStock | St. Regis<br />

INFINITY LUXURY<br />

YACHT, GALAPAGOS<br />

Set sail on a luxurious, 20-passenger<br />

yacht and explore the Galápagos<br />

Islands, a bucket list destination.<br />

Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows<br />

and private balconies open<br />

to exquisite views of the worldrenowned<br />

bio-diverse islands.<br />

Sea salty air brushes your skin as<br />

you dine al fresco. Hop offshore,<br />

channel your inner Darwin with a<br />

naturalist guide and behold a mindboggling<br />

array of unique wildlife<br />

in this pristine archipelago aboard<br />

one of the region's newest, most<br />

exclusive vessels.<br />

12 KER & DOWNEY


COMO UMA CANGUU, BALI<br />

COMO Hotels and Resorts makes a splash on Bali’s south coast with 52 rooms and suites that blend high design and flawless<br />

service with the relaxed attitude of a surf hotel. Guests can further make themselves at home in one of 55 additional oneand<br />

two-bedroom surfside residences plus 12 plush, three-bedroom penthouses. Situated along six miles of pristine coastline<br />

in the boho chic village of Canggu, the 2.2-acre spread is all about the beach. Take advantage of the hotel’s partnership<br />

with Tropicsurf, which offers expert-led surfing lessons for all levels, and find a few of the country’s famous surf breaks<br />

a stone’s throw from your accommodations. Sample menus of fresh fare made with ingredients sourced from the island’s<br />

farms, and don’t miss the unparalleled pampering and healing experience at COMO Shambhala Retreat.<br />

BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL, PORTUGAL<br />

All the cool kids hang out in Lisbon’s buzzy Bairro Alto<br />

neighborhood, home to this boutique property set to unveil<br />

its lengthy renovations this winter. Part of the overall<br />

reimagining by Pritzker-winning Portuguese architect<br />

Eduardo Souto de Moura, the addition of an 18th century<br />

building ups the room count to 87. Late night cocktails, a<br />

must-do, are sipped on the terrace facing the Tagus River.<br />

ST. REGIS, EGYPT<br />

On the banks of the Nile, the soon-to-open St. Regis will<br />

make a luxurious home base for exploring Egypt’s largest<br />

city, Cairo. Luxury touches abound, from distinctive papyrus<br />

garden murals and oriental-style rugs to pearl inlaid nightstands<br />

and marble bathrooms fit for a queen. Lounge with<br />

a Hibiscus Mary, the property’s take on the iconic St. Regis<br />

Bloody Mary, featuring an exotic hit of cumin and mint.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 15


ARRIVALS<br />

HOTSPOT:<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

By Haley Beham<br />

With over one-third of the country’s land designated<br />

as national parks and reserves, the landlocked nation<br />

just north of South Africa is as wild and varied as they<br />

come. From the life-giving waters of the Okavango<br />

Delta to the dry and arid Kalahari Desert, the landscape<br />

offers just as much diversity as the wildlife. It's<br />

no wonder the exclusive safari destination is one of<br />

the most popular in Africa.<br />

Elephants roaming the<br />

Okavango Delta<br />

MAKE A SPLASH<br />

Famous for its wildlife, Botswana adopted a low-volume tourism model over 30 years ago, ensuring the ecosystem<br />

thrives and remains pristine. The results are clearly seen in the untouched and relatively undeveloped wildlife destinations,<br />

offering a truly off the beaten path experience.<br />

The Okavango Delta is one of the last great wildernesses on earth, where an abundance of bird and animal species flourish.<br />

Here, you’ll find game viewing experiences like nowhere else in the world: trips through the delta in a mokoro canoe,<br />

motorboat safaris, private game drives in open 4x4 vehicles and walking safaris for the truly adventurous. Take in the<br />

waterworld from Kanana, a water camp that has developed a loyal following of travelers thanks to its mokoro safaris and<br />

incredible bird watching and fishing.<br />

16 KER & DOWNEY


Photos courtesy of iStock | Ker & Downey Botswana | Bana Ba Letsatsi<br />

GO WILD<br />

To the west of the Okavango Delta you’ll find the<br />

Moremi Game Reserve, widely regarded by safari<br />

lovers as one of the finest game viewing regions<br />

in all the world. Moremi is home to one of the<br />

largest concentrations of elephants on Earth.<br />

Base yourself within the reserve at Okuti, not<br />

only for its location and five-star amenities, but<br />

for the delightful staff who offer a spectacular<br />

safari experience from start to finish.<br />

The newly opened Dinaka welcomed their first<br />

guests in March. Located on the edge of the<br />

Central Kalahari Game Reserve in an exclusive<br />

private reserve, Dinaka is host to one of the most<br />

unique bio-diversities in southern Africa. Activities<br />

at Dinaka focus on exploring the vast Kalahari<br />

and its wildlife, and there’s a lot of it. Kalahari<br />

lions, brown hyena, oryx and over 200 species of<br />

birdlife, including the pale chanting goshawk and<br />

kori bustard, call the desert landscape home. At<br />

night, Dinaka’s sleep-out deck is one of the only<br />

places you can truly dream comfortably under<br />

the stars. Thanks to the dry climate, you don't<br />

even need a mosquito net.<br />

Okuti's mosasa<br />

along the river<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Don’t miss out on the Bushman experience at Dinaka. It is one of the most authentic<br />

interactions you’ll have on your whole safari. - Devon Chapman, Designer<br />

SAFARI WITH HEART<br />

Ker & Downey’s Desert to Delta Safari gives back to Bana<br />

Ba Letsatsi, a center in Maun, Botswana, that supports over<br />

250 at-risk orphaned children and youth. The center is a safe<br />

place for the children to receive counseling and education,<br />

but also provides for basic needs like food, clothing, medical<br />

attention and showers. Simply by traveling to Botswana and<br />

enjoying a luxury safari at Okuti, Kanana and Dinaka, you are<br />

making a direct impact on the lives of the children by keeping<br />

the doors open, the water running and the lights on.<br />

A child drinking fresh water at Bana Ba Letsatsi<br />

Simply by traveling to Botswana<br />

and enjoying a luxury safari at<br />

Okuti, Kanana and Dinaka, you<br />

are making a direct impact on the<br />

lives of the local children.<br />

OUR SUGGESTED ITINERARY:<br />

DESERT TO DELTA<br />

A BOTSWANA ADVENTURE<br />

10 DAYS / 9 NIGHTS THROUGH CENTRAL<br />

KALAHARI GAME RESERVE, MOREMI GAME<br />

RESERVE & OKAVANGO DELTA<br />

KER & DOWNEY 17


THE GUIDE<br />

Insider Secrets of Luxury Travel<br />

18 KER & DOWNEY<br />

BY MARTINE BURY


Photos courtesy of Mark Edward Harris<br />

PICTURE PERFECT<br />

How to Photograph Animals<br />

Award-winning photographer and <strong>QUEST</strong> contributor,<br />

Mark Edward Harris, has traveled to 98 countries and six<br />

continents, capturing images of elusive, wild creatures at<br />

their most serene and spontaneous. Here, he shares how to<br />

get the best photo, whatever your skills.<br />

<strong>QUEST</strong>: Where are the best places<br />

on Earth you’ve taken pictures of<br />

wildlife?<br />

Mark Edward Harris: Japan is fantastic<br />

for its red-crowned cranes in<br />

Hokkaido and snow monkeys in Nagano<br />

Prefecture in winter. Alaska is<br />

amazing for bears catching salmon<br />

trying to make their way upstream<br />

on the Brooks River in mid-summer.<br />

The Arctic and the area around<br />

Churchill are incredible for its Polar<br />

bears. Trekking to photograph gorillas<br />

in Rwanda is a very intense and<br />

rewarding experience because after<br />

a long hike you end up in extremely<br />

close proximity to these fellow great<br />

apes. Latin America offers everything<br />

from whales and other sea life<br />

around Baja to parrots in a giant<br />

sink hole near Bonito, Brazil. We are<br />

so fortunate to live on a planet with<br />

so much diversity. We just have to<br />

make sure that we take care of it to<br />

the best of our abilities.<br />

When traveling somewhere with the<br />

intention of photographing wildlife,<br />

which pieces of camera equipment<br />

are must-haves?<br />

Photographing wildlife is not as<br />

much about cameras as it is about<br />

lenses. The newest smart phones<br />

can take great panoramas and<br />

portraits in the right hands but are<br />

not the right tools for wildlife where<br />

extreme long lenses are the name of<br />

the game. It’s not uncommon to see<br />

pros and serious amateurs toting<br />

around 400mm to 600mm lenses.<br />

These lenses are huge in order to<br />

allow enough light in so that a shot<br />

can be taken without having to<br />

bump up the ISO to a very digital<br />

noise-inducing level.<br />

How do you capture an emotional<br />

quality in an up-close animal<br />

portrait?<br />

One of the main reasons for using<br />

extremely long lenses in wildlife<br />

photography is to capture an image<br />

of an animal in its native environment<br />

without disturbing it. If you<br />

can photograph their eyes, the<br />

viewers can glimpse into the window<br />

to the souls. That expression is<br />

not just reserved for humans. With<br />

fast lenses, meaning a lens that can<br />

open to a wide aperture such as<br />

f/2.8, we can focus our lenses on<br />

their eyes and let the background<br />

drop out of focus by using a shallow<br />

depth of field. This technique creates<br />

an image that helps us connect with<br />

the animal before our lens, at least<br />

on a visual level. The background<br />

in this technique is called “bokeh”<br />

— the quality of out of focusness.<br />

It comes from the Japanese word<br />

“boke.” Less expensive telephoto<br />

lenses do not maintain a wide<br />

enough aperture to get as powerful<br />

a bokeh as the top of the line fast<br />

lenses, but the reality is most people<br />

do not want to spend $8,000 on a<br />

lens that is heavy and cumbersome.<br />

It’s a balancing act, and there’s<br />

nothing wrong with someone opting<br />

to travel with a smaller lens that<br />

doesn’t break the bank or the back.<br />

“WE ARE SO<br />

FORTUNATE TO LIVE<br />

ON A PLANET WITH<br />

SO MUCH DIVERSITY.<br />

WE JUST HAVE TO<br />

MAKE SURE THAT<br />

WE TAKE CARE OF IT<br />

TO THE BEST OF OUR<br />

ABILITIES.”<br />

Is capturing a great moment luck<br />

or technique?<br />

Most of it comes from experience<br />

and a professional approach. First,<br />

know the equipment in your hands<br />

and gain basic knowledge of photo<br />

technique. I cover this in depth in<br />

my book, “The Travel Photo Essay:<br />

Describing a Journey Through Images.”<br />

I emphasize in my workshops<br />

that a photographer who<br />

wants to take professional-looking<br />

images needs to approach the field<br />

just as a person would in any other<br />

profession. They need to learn their<br />

tools of the trade. When it comes<br />

to technique, having a firm grasp<br />

of the exposure triangle — shutter<br />

speed, aperture and ISO, and how<br />

they relate to each other — is a<br />

good start.<br />

How do you capture the drama in<br />

an action shot?<br />

The keys to capturing the decisive<br />

moment in wildlife photography is<br />

being in the right place at the right<br />

time and using a fast-enough shutter<br />

speed to capture the action. For<br />

instance, I used a shutter speed of<br />

1/2000th of a second to freeze the<br />

salmon about to be caught by the<br />

grizzly above Brooks Falls. For these<br />

situations, it’s often best to work in<br />

shutter priority.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 19


What tips do you have for shooting<br />

up-close?<br />

Macro lenses are the key to photographing<br />

all sorts of smaller creatures<br />

from butterflies to tarsiers. It’s a great<br />

lens to have in the bag.<br />

Where to next and what do you hope<br />

to capture in an image?<br />

I’m heading to Southeast Asia to<br />

continue my series of orangutan<br />

portraits. While the future for many<br />

species is uncertain, orangutans in<br />

the wild are hanging on by a particularly<br />

thin vine. Their populations have<br />

declined significantly over the past<br />

hundred years in large measure due<br />

to habitat destruction in their native<br />

Sumatra and Borneo where forests<br />

give way to palm oil plantations. But<br />

palm oil production can be done sustainably<br />

without destroying forests<br />

and consumers can support these<br />

efforts by using products that have<br />

a RSPO (Sustainable Palm Oil) label<br />

or the Green Palm label, the latter<br />

indicating a product in support of the<br />

transition to certified palm oil.<br />

Instagram: @MarkEdwardHarrisPhoto<br />

Website: www.MarkEdwardHarris.com<br />

ABOUT FACE<br />

Leave your beauty arsenal at home<br />

and pack a cult favorite product —<br />

made in Napa Valley — that keeps skin<br />

balanced on the move.<br />

Active Botanical Serum by Vintner’s<br />

Daughter in 5 ml travel size | $65<br />

vintnersdaughter.com<br />

20 KER & DOWNEY


MINIMALISM TO GO<br />

Travel accessories and multitasking takealongs<br />

have gotten sleeker and stronger,<br />

without sacrificing a single ounce of chic. In<br />

an Instagram world, the new status symbols<br />

are logo-less wonders that work hard and<br />

keep you looking sharp.<br />

Water-resistant nylon, clean lines, ample<br />

compartments and a flat bottom make a<br />

compact duffle that fits under-seat on a<br />

plane without gobbling up legroom.<br />

Photos courtesy of Mark Edward Harris | Vintner's Daughter | Away | MVMT | Zendure | MUUÑ<br />

Inspired by 1960s automotive culture,<br />

this affordable timepiece quietly steals<br />

attention with its classic blend of form and<br />

function. Choose from a variety of straps.<br />

Blacktop Series 47mm Watch in Silver Mist by<br />

MVMT | $185 | mvmtwatches.com<br />

Chargers, no matter how small, can be cumbersome.<br />

This multitasking, portable power<br />

bank is the sleek, gold standard — crushproof,<br />

allows you to charge your devices<br />

while charging an external battery and can<br />

keep 95% of its charge for up to 6 months.<br />

Zendure A5 Portable Charger | $60 | zendure.com<br />

The Everywhere Bag by AWAY | $195<br />

awaytravel.com<br />

A sturdy straw bag (handwoven in<br />

Ghana) with an added shoulder strap<br />

looks smart while traveling and suits<br />

any destination, from lounging on the<br />

beach to picnicking by the Seine to<br />

shopping in the souk.<br />

Medium Caba Straw Tote by MUUÑ | $215<br />

lagarconne.com and netaporter.com<br />

KER & DOWNEY 21


NEXT UP:<br />

GO ECO<br />

As travelers become more<br />

aware of the environmental<br />

impacts of tourism on<br />

destinations, Ker & Downey<br />

recommends more roads<br />

less traveled. Here are<br />

three to see now.<br />

COSTA RICA<br />

A land thick with dense wildlife-packed jungles, otherworldly<br />

cloud forests, UNESCO World Heritage Sites and<br />

uncrowded, unspoiled beaches on the Pacific and Caribbean<br />

sides — Costa Rica is rich with ecozones. Visit and<br />

you’ll often hear the words “pura vida,” the national ethos<br />

of living simply, optimistically and stress free with abiding<br />

gratitude for the country’s prolific natural and cultural<br />

gifts. Think cascading waterfalls, towering volcanic<br />

mountains and steamy thermal spas, as well as the alluring<br />

colonial city of San José. Boasting some of Latin America’s<br />

most innovative environmental policies, Costa Rica has<br />

turned small-scale ecotourism into high art, with luxury<br />

glamping experiences that are at the forefront of water and<br />

wildlife conservation, and even agroforestry.<br />

The canopy<br />

suite at<br />

Pacuare<br />

Lodge<br />

The sunset<br />

from White<br />

Pearl in<br />

Mozambique<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Off the beaten path, southern Africa’s<br />

remote and sparsely-touristed seaside<br />

marvel gives way to some of the planet’s<br />

most singular experiences and sights,<br />

such as the marine animals, bird species<br />

and wild horses that thrive on the six<br />

islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago.<br />

Traced by the Indian Ocean, the pristine<br />

coastline offers sparkling sand and<br />

views of the sea often dotted with colorful<br />

dhows afloat above vibrant corals<br />

and abundant sea life. While the country<br />

is home to wetlands, forests and<br />

savannahs, underwater safari is where<br />

it’s at, making Mozambique an ideal<br />

place to view sea life in the vast and<br />

purest of blues. The islands and islets<br />

of the seemingly-boundless Quirimbas<br />

Archipelago and Quirimbas National<br />

Park are virtually undiscovered. Beyond<br />

the sea, the sleepy seaside villages of<br />

Nampula Province beckon discovery of<br />

authentic local life.<br />

A polar bear in the<br />

Svalbard islands<br />

NORWAY<br />

As if an arresting, dramatic natural<br />

landscape carved by fjords and<br />

massive, snow-capped mountains<br />

and hidden glassy lakes isn’t reason<br />

enough to visit, this Scandinavian<br />

country is also known for the<br />

world’s highest standard of living<br />

and fair quality of life for its inhabitants.<br />

From quaint fishing villages<br />

to rare and unusual wildlife to the<br />

heritage of Viking sagas, it’s easy<br />

to explore all, leaving a minimal<br />

environmental footprint. A perfect<br />

fit for all levels of sustainable adventure<br />

— kayaking, hiking, arctic<br />

whale watching, glacier viewing,<br />

fishing and foraging, skiing or<br />

chasing the Northern Lights — this<br />

is a bucket list destination that remains<br />

under the radar just enough<br />

that you often feel you have the<br />

whole world to yourself.<br />

Photos courtesy of White Pearl | Pacuare Lodge | iStock<br />

22 KER & DOWNEY


DESTINATIONS<br />

The World of Ker & Downey<br />

Chichicastenango, Guatemala<br />

KER & DOWNEY 23


EAST<br />

AFRICA<br />

ETHIOPIA<br />

KENYA<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

MAURITIUS<br />

REPUBLIC<br />

OF CONGO<br />

RWANDA<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

TANZANIA<br />

UGANDA<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Embark on a photographic safari<br />

with a wildlife photography expert.<br />

UGANDA<br />

Volunteer with local<br />

hospitals, schools or a<br />

conservation organization.<br />

24 KER & DOWNEY


Photos courtesy of iStock | Little Chem Chem | Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp | Nyungwe House, a partner hotel of One&Only | Ol Jogi<br />

ETHIOPIA<br />

Interact with the Mursi, Hamer and Karo peoples<br />

in Omo Valley, home to eighteen diverse tribes.<br />

KENYA<br />

Take a private helicopter tour of lakes<br />

Turkana and Logipi, Mount Kenya and<br />

the highlands of Aberdare National Park.<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

Canoe to Lemur Island sanctuary to<br />

view lemurs in their jungle refuge, one<br />

of a precious few places to see these<br />

primates wild and free.<br />

RWANDA<br />

Trek under the canopy in Nyungwe<br />

Forest National Park, home to 25<br />

percent of Africa’s primate species.


Gorilla trekking at<br />

Gorilla Forest Camp


UGANDA<br />

FOREVER<br />

Ker & Downey designer Cherie Tann shares<br />

six reasons why Uganda should not be<br />

overlooked on an east African safari.<br />

As told to Rina Chandarana<br />

it may be small, but uganda<br />

has so much to offer. friendly<br />

people, oodles of wildlife<br />

(including gorillas) and a<br />

beyond blissful year-round<br />

climate make this a destination<br />

worth adding to your travel<br />

bucket list.<br />

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mist-laden mountains and dense forests roll as<br />

far as the eye can see in this corner of Uganda.<br />

Hidden in the greenery are one of the country’s<br />

main attractions: the gorillas. I’ll never forget the<br />

feeling of getting up-close to these magnificent<br />

creatures. Little babies played on branches and<br />

casually crossed my path. Eco-conscious travelers<br />

can get hands-on by planting trees to help<br />

preserve this landscape or help to contribute to<br />

the Gorilla Forest Camp’s philanthropy projects.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 27


Venture to<br />

Murchison<br />

Falls by boat.<br />

Photos courtesy of Gorilla Forest Camp | Baker's Lodge | Ishasha Wilderness Camp | iStock<br />

MURCHISON FALLS<br />

After flying into the bustling capital city<br />

of Kampala, I headed north to Murchison<br />

Falls National Park to stay at Baker’s<br />

Lodge, a small boutique property frequently<br />

visited by a barrel of monkeys<br />

perched in the trees. This is one of my<br />

favorite areas because of the incredible<br />

game viewing. Rothschild giraffes wander,<br />

lions roam and hyenas yip. After a<br />

two-hour boat ride to get closer to the<br />

crashing falls, I could easily spot loads<br />

of lounging hippos. Elephants stopped<br />

by the banks for a drink and crocodiles<br />

glided along. Hike up to the top of the<br />

falls for a spectacular perspective or<br />

soar sky-high in a hot air balloon.<br />

A private tent<br />

at Ishasha<br />

Wilderness<br />

Camp<br />

QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK<br />

There are several lodges to choose from in this area, but my<br />

go-to is the six-tented Ishasha Wilderness Camp, a great<br />

place to start a primate trek and to see elephants. The lakes<br />

and the Kazinga Channel attract birds, beasts and scores of<br />

fishermen prepping their boats for a day out on the water.<br />

28 KER & DOWNEY


KIBALE NATIONAL PARK<br />

This absolutely stunning part of southern Uganda overflows<br />

with rolling green hills and deep blue volcanic<br />

crater lakes. Chimp trekking is the highlight, headed by<br />

trained guides adept at locating the exquisite creatures<br />

hanging out in the little clearings and peering down<br />

from tree branches. I was able to get up-close to primates<br />

during a trek from Ndali Lodge.<br />

Jabali Ridge's<br />

plunge pool is a<br />

welcomed respite<br />

after a day on safari.<br />

But it was my interaction with Ugandans that endeared<br />

me to the country. Towns and villages are hives of<br />

activity. Ladies carry baskets on their backs, brimming<br />

with freshly picked leaves and beans at verdant<br />

tea and coffee farms. Happy children run around and<br />

play soccer after school. This is a true glimpse into daily<br />

Ugandan life.<br />

A mother and<br />

her child in<br />

Uganda<br />

A wild<br />

chimpanze<br />

at Kibale<br />

National Park<br />

The crested<br />

crane, Uganda's<br />

national bird<br />

LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK<br />

Activities are plentiful around Lake Mburo. Enjoy a<br />

horseback safari or speed things up with a mountain<br />

bike ride while zebras race along. The wonderful variety<br />

of birds caught my eye the most. Crested cranes—the<br />

national bird of Uganda featured on the country’s flag—<br />

wade in the waters, while a colorful cast of yellow, blue<br />

and green birds chirp in the surrounding trees.<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Pack light-weight, quickdrying<br />

hiking pants<br />

that can be tucked into<br />

sturdy hiking boots.<br />

- Cherie Tann, Designer<br />

JINJA<br />

Adventure-seekers will love river rafting, fishing and gliding<br />

along in canoes launched from the shores of Lake Victoria,<br />

where the Nile begins. There is a lot to do here, and it’s easy<br />

to end your trip on an exciting note. As for me, I relaxed at<br />

the end of my full and fulfilling journey to Uganda.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 29


SOUTHERN<br />

AFRICA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Sail the Indian ocean in an<br />

authentic Arabian dhow.<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Take in the marvel of the Okavango<br />

Delta on a private helicopter tour.<br />

30 KER & DOWNEY


SOUTH AFRICA<br />

Hike the coastal Oystercatcher Trail<br />

to spot rare birds and sea life.<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Cruise the Zambezi River and catch<br />

sight of hippos wading in the water.<br />

Photos courtesy of Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort & Spa | iStock | Busanga | Kuala Desert Lodge | Belmond Eagle Island<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

View the famous red dunes and dramatic desert<br />

landscapes of Sossusvlei from a hot air balloon.<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

See the mighty Victoria Falls<br />

on a sundowner cruise.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 31


Guests on a walking safari at<br />

Victoria Falls River Lodge


AFRICA’S<br />

SAFARI<br />

DARLING<br />

Why Zimbabwe Should Be Your<br />

Next Safari. By Haley Beham<br />

with incredible natural<br />

beauty, exceptional wildlife<br />

variety and some of the<br />

friendliest people on the<br />

planet, zimbabwe offers an<br />

unrivaled safari experience<br />

at a fraction of the cost of<br />

its neighboring countries.<br />

In The Colorado Kid, Stephen<br />

King wrote that ‘sooner or later,<br />

everything old is new again.’ If he<br />

was right, then Zimbabwe is about<br />

to have a very big moment on the<br />

safari scene.<br />

After decades-long political and<br />

economic turmoil cast a dark<br />

shadow over tourism in Zimbabwe,<br />

the country is back and poised to<br />

reclaim its position as a top safari<br />

destination. Helping to usher in this<br />

new era is the Victoria Falls International<br />

Airport which opened at the<br />

end of 2016. While it is far from seeing<br />

1.5 million visitors per year as it<br />

did in the 1990s, there’s no doubt<br />

about it: a new dawn is breaking.<br />

The time to visit Zimbabwe is now.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 33


Photos: Above:<br />

Cheetahs in<br />

Hwange National<br />

Park; Right: A<br />

stunning suite at<br />

Somalisa Camp<br />

HWANGE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Situated on the western border of Botswana,<br />

Hwange National Park spreads<br />

across 5,650 square miles and is the<br />

country’s largest wildlife sanctuary<br />

and its most famous safari destination.<br />

It is well-known for its thriving<br />

elephant population, and is one<br />

of the best places in Southern Africa<br />

to spot lions, zebra, giraffe and white<br />

rhino. Notably, brown hyena and large<br />

packs of wild dog are also prolific in<br />

the authentic wilderness of Hwange.<br />

Variety is the spice of life here, not<br />

only in its assembly of wildlife, but<br />

also in its landscape. Within the park,<br />

you’ll find diverse topography, from<br />

the desert sands of the Kalahari near<br />

the border, to the mopane woodlands<br />

and grasslands, to the ancient seasonal<br />

floodplains which form wetlands in the<br />

rainy season.<br />

WHERE TO STAY: With just seven<br />

canvas tents outfitted with copper bath<br />

tubs and outdoor showers, Somalisa<br />

Camp offers luxury and adventure in<br />

the heart of Hwange National Park. You<br />

don’t even have to leave camp in search<br />

of wildlife. Zebras have been known<br />

to snack within view of the bathtubs,<br />

and the swimming pool and main areas<br />

boast amazing views of the pan where<br />

large herds of elephant have attempted<br />

to claim the territory.<br />

Photos courtesy of Victoria Falls River Lodge | Somalisa Camp | Greater Mana Expedition | Singita Pamushana<br />

MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK<br />

In the remote reaches of the north, Mana Pools National Park<br />

is a wildly untamed conservation area and UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site. Here, the Zambezi River is the life force, flooding<br />

the plains and filling four large pools that were once part<br />

of channels that have long since ceased flowing. These pools,<br />

brimming with water year-round, attract big game to the<br />

area. Still, the park is more well-known for its large concentration<br />

of hippos and crocodiles. Get out of the safari vehicle<br />

here to stretch your legs and explore the area on foot, as<br />

Mana Pools is renowned for walking safaris.<br />

WHERE TO STAY: Explore Mana Pools National Park and<br />

the neighboring private Sapi Reserve (which forms part of the<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site) with Greater Mana Expedition,<br />

an intimate six-day adventure focusing on exploration and<br />

discovery through walking and canoe safaris.<br />

34 KER & DOWNEY<br />

A mother elephant<br />

with her young<br />

at Greater Mana<br />

Expedition


Photos: Left:<br />

Glorious Victoria<br />

Falls at sunset;<br />

Bottom: The<br />

island treehouse<br />

suite at Victoria<br />

Falls River Lodge<br />

VICTORIA FALLS<br />

Of course, you can’t travel<br />

to Zimbabwe without visiting<br />

Mosi-oa-Tunya, better<br />

known as Victoria Falls.<br />

Its local name means “the<br />

smoke that thunders,” and<br />

it’s an awe-inspiring Natural<br />

Wonder of the World.<br />

When the Zambezi River,<br />

the natural border between<br />

Zambia and Zimbabwe, is<br />

in full flood, it forms the<br />

world’s largest curtain of<br />

falling water. It’s quite a<br />

spectacle to experience.<br />

WHERE TO STAY:<br />

Located on the banks of<br />

the Zambezi River just<br />

minutes from the falls,<br />

Victoria Falls River Lodge<br />

is the first private game<br />

lodge within Zambezi<br />

National Park. With just<br />

seven tented suites, you<br />

can combine a safari<br />

experience in the African<br />

bush with visits to Victoria<br />

Falls, undoubtedly one of<br />

the world’s most famous<br />

destinations.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 35


Incredible views<br />

await at Singita<br />

Pamushana<br />

MALILANGWE PRIVATE RESERVE<br />

The Malilangwe Private Reserve in southeastern Zimbabwe is home to one of the most successful black rhino protection<br />

programs in Africa. As a result, the highest concentration of black rhinos in the world thrive in this 130,000-acre<br />

wilderness. Geologically, the land is diverse, with sandstone hills, the Chiredzi River, riverine forests, mopane woodlands<br />

and the Malilangwe dam. The diversity in habitats supports a wide range of wildlife in addition to its population of<br />

rhino. Predators like lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and wild dogs prowl the reserve for plains game. Sable antelope<br />

and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest roam in the mopane woodlands to the south and east. Tiger fish, among other species of<br />

fish, and a healthy population of hippo, crocodile and birdlife are found in the Malilangwe dam.<br />

WHERE TO STAY: Recently renovated, the celebrated Singita Pamushana lodge is the ecotourism arm of the Malilangwe<br />

Private Reserve and exists to help fund the conservation projects and assist the communities bordering the reserve. It<br />

is an excellent example of the harmony that can exist between conservation initiatives, community outreach and tourism.<br />

36 KER & DOWNEY


Luxury African Safari<br />

ZAMBEZI QUEEN<br />

Rolling on the great Chobe River, Zambezi Queen is a 5-star,<br />

42-meter-long luxury houseboat offering unparalleled<br />

sophistication in one of the most remote locations on the<br />

planet. As our guest, you can enjoy a truly adventurous river<br />

safari while being immersed in complete comfort and elegance.<br />

Each of the Zambezi Queen’s 14 suites features airconditioning<br />

and a private balcony, where you can take in<br />

unobstructed views of the Chobe River and African landscape.<br />

See wildlife from different vantage points on board, including<br />

from the comfort of your own bed. Chobe National Park boasts<br />

one of the densest populations of elephants on the African<br />

continent, as well as leopards, lions, buffalo, a variety of<br />

antelope and abundant birdlife.<br />

34 KER & DOWNEY<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Camp Jabulani in your next custom journey.<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM<br />

the Zambezi Queen in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


NORTH AFRICA<br />

& MIDDLE EAST<br />

EGYPT<br />

ISRAEL<br />

JORDAN<br />

MOROCCO<br />

OMAN<br />

QATAR<br />

SUDAN<br />

UNITED ARAB<br />

EMIRATES<br />

OMAN<br />

Hop on board a luxury yacht<br />

from Muscat’s marina.<br />

ISRAEL<br />

Shop in a Tel Aviv<br />

market and learn to<br />

cook the ingredients<br />

with a local chef.<br />

38 KER & DOWNEY


JORDAN<br />

Explore the desert canyon<br />

surrounding Petra.<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Learn how to<br />

extract argan oil,<br />

an important family<br />

cottage industry.<br />

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />

Share a meal with an expert on Arab<br />

and Emirati culture.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | Jordan Tourism Board | Ker & Downey<br />

EGYPT<br />

Find out how the Sphinx<br />

was carved from a single<br />

mass of limestone from<br />

a leading Egyptologist.


The spa at Lazib Inn


DESERT<br />

DREAMS<br />

There’s more to Egypt than the<br />

grand temples of the ancient<br />

pharaohs along a legendary<br />

river. Head west of the Nile and<br />

south of Cairo and find two<br />

unique oases and cultures.<br />

By Haley Beham<br />

Fayoum Oasis<br />

When describing the region 750 years<br />

ago, Fayoum’s governor Abu ‘Uthmân<br />

al-Nabulsi wrote, “Cool are the<br />

dawns; tall are the trees; many are the<br />

fruits; little are the rains.” With such<br />

a tranquil retreat so close to Cairo,<br />

it’s surprising one of the most ancient<br />

areas in all of Africa remains relatively<br />

unknown to the outside world.<br />

Sunflowers, date palms and water<br />

buffalo dominate the landscape. This<br />

area, known as the Fayoum Oasis,<br />

is not an oasis in the truest sense of<br />

the word, as it is fed by hundreds of<br />

capillary canals from the Nile instead<br />

of springs. Still, the land is fertile.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 41


Drink local tea<br />

at Lazib Inn.<br />

to truly experience one of Egypt’s best kept secrets, make your<br />

base at the lavishly luxurious Lazib Inn. With just eight rooms, the boutique<br />

hotel is set among manicured gardens overlooking the world’s oldest<br />

nature reserve on the shores of Lake Qaroun. Once a breadbasket of<br />

the Roman world, this area is known for producing delicious fruits and<br />

vegetables. Its bounty inspires the dining experience at Lazib Inn, where<br />

fresh, local ingredients stand out.<br />

The relaxing setting makes Lazib Inn an ideal destination to start or end a<br />

journey to Egypt, but there’s also plenty to do there. Try horseback rides<br />

on Arabian steeds, desert safaris exploring the shimmering sand dunes<br />

and exploration of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Wadi El Hitan (Valley<br />

of the Whales). Fayoum is widely regarded as the best place for birdwatching<br />

in Egypt, peaking from October to April when a number of<br />

bird species, including a variety of warblers and larks, flock to the oasis.<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

From Lazib Inn, head up the street to<br />

Mahmoud el-Sherif’s pottery shop and<br />

stock up on beautifully hand-thrown bowls,<br />

platters and more. - Nicole Porto, Designer<br />

Siwa Oasis<br />

Further west in a seemingly endless expanse of sand, the<br />

Siwa Oasis is home to 20,000 indigenous Siwis, a Berber<br />

ethnic group who lead minimalistic lives in a tribal system<br />

that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries.<br />

Since about 700 BC, they have managed to live in isolation,<br />

speaking their own language and boasting a cultural<br />

identity vastly different from modern Egyptians. For a true<br />

glimpse into the lives of the Siwis, make plans to visit a local<br />

family for tea in their home.<br />

The Greeks first discovered the Siwa Oasis and established<br />

the Oracle of Amun there. After reclaiming Egypt from the<br />

Persians, Alexander the Great made the long journey to<br />

Siwa to visit the Oracle where, allegedly, he was told he<br />

was the son of Amun-Ra, the supreme god. Today, you<br />

can walk in Alexander’s footsteps and visit the ruins of<br />

the Oracle Temple. You shouldn’t miss a visit to Jebel al-<br />

Mwata (Mountain of the Dead) either. It’s Siwa’s version<br />

of the Valley of the Kings with ancient tombs dug into the<br />

mountain. If you’re adventurous, try dune bashing, sand<br />

boarding, hiking or horseback riding in the desert.<br />

Retreat to Adrere Amellal, a 40-room eco-resort located<br />

at the foot of White Mountain overlooking Lake Siwa.<br />

Each room is hand-built using traditional materials in the<br />

unique Siwan style that blends into the landscape. With no<br />

electricity, the environmentally-sustainable lodge is a true<br />

getaway in the desert.<br />

Photos courtesy of Lazib Inn | Adrere Amellal<br />

Siwan-style<br />

rooms at<br />

Adrere Amellal<br />

At night pathways are illuminated by lanterns and beeswax<br />

candles. Dining becomes an elegant affair as traditional<br />

cuisine made from organic and locally-grown produce is<br />

served in a different location each night: in a small nook<br />

tucked out of the way of the lodge, by the shore of the salt<br />

lake or in a forest of palm trees.<br />

After exploring Cairo and the ancient Egyptian temples<br />

along the Nile, make time to escape to the two oases setting<br />

a new standard of luxury in the desert.<br />

42 KER & DOWNEY


Shali Fortress<br />

in Siwa Oasis


BHUTAN<br />

ASIA<br />

CAMBODIA<br />

CHINA<br />

INDIA<br />

INDONESIA<br />

JAPAN<br />

KAZAKHSTAN<br />

LAOS<br />

MALAYSIA<br />

MALDIVES<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

MYANMAR<br />

NEPAL<br />

PHILIPPINES<br />

SINGAPORE<br />

SRI LANKA<br />

THAILAND<br />

VIETNAM<br />

UZBEKISTAN<br />

INDONESIA<br />

See pristine coral reefs, swim with<br />

dolphins, dive among Taka Makassar’s<br />

Manta Rays or trek Komodo Island.<br />

PHILLIPPINES<br />

Dive the deep with<br />

whale sharks, the<br />

ocean’s gentle giants.<br />

44 KER & DOWNEY


THAILAND<br />

Take a helicopter ride<br />

over Phang Nga Bay<br />

to a private beach for<br />

canoeing and snorkeling.<br />

VIETNAM<br />

Experience a warm welcome from traditional<br />

dancers followed by dinner and live music at<br />

a French villa in Ho Chi Minh City.<br />

CAMBODIA<br />

Visit remote villages via private boat ride on Tonle<br />

Sap Lake and sip on crafted cocktails as you watch<br />

the sunset from a private viewing platform.<br />

CHINA<br />

Discover the vibrant creative scene in<br />

Shanghai’s arts districts, including the<br />

Former French Concession, the Bund,<br />

Huangpu museums and the famous M50.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | Ker & Downey


Gassho-zukuri style<br />

homes in Kanazawa


OUTSIDE<br />

LANDS<br />

Designer Tess Koptiuch<br />

travels to Japan and<br />

discovers a country where<br />

modernity and ancient<br />

tradition go hand in hand.<br />

As told to Haley Beham<br />

If ever there was a picture of how<br />

millions of people can peacefully<br />

coexist, Japan is it. Over 127 million<br />

people call the island country home,<br />

yet the streets are clean and people<br />

are civil and polite to one another.<br />

It’s full of stark contrast. I take in<br />

these odd, striking juxtapositions as<br />

I travel from Tokyo to Kanazawa to<br />

Kaga, and back to Tokyo again. Yet<br />

the big picture is harmoniuous. After<br />

a brief stay in high-tech Tokyo, I<br />

board Japan’s luxurious Shinkansen<br />

bullet train in Gran Class (first class)<br />

for Kanazawa, a town known for its<br />

well-preserved Edo-era districts,<br />

restored Samurai houses, geisha<br />

culture and regional handicrafts.<br />

Because of its relatively remote location,<br />

the city escaped bombing during<br />

World War II. As a result, much<br />

of its traditional architecture is still<br />

intact. Its proliferation of traditional<br />

arts like hand-painted silks and ceramics,<br />

earned Kanazawa designation<br />

as a UNESCO Creative City for<br />

Crafts and Folk Art.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 47


"Established in<br />

1639, Araya Totoan<br />

has been owned by<br />

the Maeda family<br />

for 18 generations.<br />

Hostesses anticipate<br />

my every need ... "<br />

As I watch the artisans cut gold leaf into small<br />

squares, I learn that Kanazawa is the leading<br />

producer of gold leaf in Japan. The city’s<br />

gold leaf production dates back 400 years and<br />

today is a source of local pride for the artisans<br />

and residents alike. You can find it decorating<br />

folding screens, ceramics, glassware, temples<br />

and shrines. I am served green tea with a piece<br />

of gold leaf in it. Before leaving, I am given a<br />

piece to keep in my wallet for good fortune.<br />

From Kanazawa, I continue my journey<br />

to Kaga, a quaint spa town. I stay at Araya<br />

Totoan, a traditional Japanese ryokan, where<br />

I am steeped in classic Japanese hospitality.<br />

Established in 1639, Araya Totoan has been<br />

owned by the Maeda family for 18 generations.<br />

Hostesses anticipate my every need and<br />

fresh Kaiseki-style meals are served on rare<br />

Kutani ceramic and Yamanaka lacquerware.<br />

Inside my suite I indulge in modern amenities<br />

that complement the traditional, minimalist<br />

Japanese style. I also take full advantage of<br />

two hot spring bath tubs. In addition to the<br />

private baths, Araya Totoan has three public<br />

baths filled with the restorative waters of<br />

Yamashiro hot springs.<br />

While in Kaga, I have the rare treat of visiting<br />

the artist Buzan Fukushima at his home studio.<br />

Buzan is a master of Aka-e painting (red<br />

painting), a highly valued craft first produced<br />

in 1640. In 2015, he was commissioned by<br />

Hermès to paint 12 watch faces for the Slim<br />

d’Hermès line, marking the first time Japanese<br />

art was combined with French porcelain.<br />

I enjoy seeing the intricacy and difficulty of<br />

his craft firsthand. I’m surprised to see that<br />

he paints with such precision, even without<br />

the use of glasses or a magnifying glass. To<br />

demonstrate his craft while I’m there, he<br />

paints my name onto a single grain of rice. He<br />

then signs the back and gives it to me. All of<br />

Buzan’s works are commissioned and cannot<br />

be purchased in a shop, so my little grain of<br />

rice is my most prized souvenir.<br />

Photos: Above: Hot springs bath<br />

tubs at Araya Totoan; Bottom:<br />

Buzan Fukushima at work<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

It's Japanese tradition to remove your shoes when<br />

entering a home or various other establishments<br />

that you will surely visit. Wear shoes that are easy<br />

to slip on and off. And be sure to wear socks!<br />

- Tess Koptiuch, Designer<br />

48 KER & DOWNEY


Modern meets<br />

tradition at Palace<br />

Hotel Tokyo<br />

I wrap up my journey in the heart of the action, at the<br />

Palace Hotel Tokyo, a property that effortlessly blends old<br />

and new. The luxe high rise is impeccably clean, with 278<br />

spacious rooms and 12 suites that sit opposite the Imperial<br />

Palace Gardens. Throughout the hotel, I find an eclectic mix<br />

of over 1,000 pieces ranging from traditional ink washes to<br />

colorful abstracts and laser-cut paper art. Each piece has<br />

been specially selected or commissioned for the hotel from<br />

some of Japan’s most loved artists, as well as some of the<br />

country’s most promising up and coming creatives. But the<br />

cornerstone of the hotel is its staff. Friendly, polite and attentive,<br />

Japan’s traditional culture of hospitality is present<br />

even in the cutting-edge, urban hotel.<br />

Japanese hospitality encompasses so much more than<br />

friendly service. I experienced it throughout my journey,<br />

from the meticulous preparation and presentation of meals<br />

to the pride artisans take in their craft. I felt it most in the<br />

sincere kindness of each person I met along the way.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 49


NORTH<br />

UNITED STATES<br />

AMERICA<br />

CALIFORNIA<br />

Sail to the notorious Alcatraz<br />

Island prison in San Francisco<br />

Bay and dig into its history<br />

with a private guide.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | The ARTS at Marks Garage<br />

HAWAII<br />

Explore Honolulu’s<br />

Chinatown and enjoy<br />

a performance at the<br />

ARTS at Marks Garage.<br />

50 KER & DOWNEY


NEW YORK<br />

See a pizzaiolo spin a pie<br />

from scratch in Brooklyn.<br />

PENNSYLVANIA<br />

Learn more about the<br />

origins of the Declaration<br />

of Independence in the<br />

city of Philadelphia.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 51


The Preservation<br />

Hall Band in<br />

New Orleans


SOUTHERN<br />

COMFORT<br />

Stimulate all of your senses on a grand tour<br />

of the southern United States, from the<br />

home of the King of Rock to the streets<br />

of the Big Easy. With Ker & Downey you’ll<br />

experience the holy trinity of southern<br />

hospitality: good music, decadent cuisine<br />

and handcrafted booze to lift your spirits.<br />

By Katy Heerssen<br />

LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL<br />

NEW ORLEANS, DECADENT CITY<br />

OF INDULGENCE, is a celebration<br />

of life year-round. Exclusive Ker<br />

& Downey experiences let you bear<br />

witness to its eclectic tapestry of food,<br />

drink and live music far from the hordes<br />

of tourists. Prowl the streets with a local<br />

musicologist and hear tales of musicians<br />

who have shaped the landscape of<br />

the city as you explore Congo Square,<br />

the Preservation Hall Jazz Club and the<br />

Treme. From fresh Gulf oysters and<br />

shrimp to immaculate Creole creations,<br />

take your mealtime to the next level.<br />

Taste some of the world’s best bites at<br />

James Beard award-winners and family<br />

joints passed down through generations.<br />

Shake things up with celebrity<br />

mixologist Daniel Victory and go behind<br />

his bar to learn the art of crafting<br />

memorable cocktails.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 53


Classic car<br />

tours outside<br />

of Sun Studios<br />

THE SOUL OF MEMPHIS<br />

IN 1968, DR. MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. WAS ASSASSINATED at<br />

the Lorraine Motel. This pivotal place in American history is now the site<br />

of the National Civil Rights Museum, a moving interactive experience that<br />

traces past and ongoing struggles for equality in the United States. It’s a<br />

story told frankly and with much respect, and you encounter it in reverence<br />

with a knowledgeable Ker & Downey guide. Explore Memphis’ legendary<br />

musical roots at the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. More<br />

than 2,000 artifacts and ephemera from the golden age of this distinctly<br />

American genre fill the halls of this hallowed space.<br />

Dr. Martin<br />

Luther King<br />

Jr. in 1964<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Take time to watch the resident<br />

ducks walk the red carpet at<br />

the Peabody Hotel — a longstanding<br />

Memphis tradition.<br />

-Catherine Brown, Designer<br />

54 KER & DOWNEY


Photos courtesy of Zack Smith Photography | Alex Shansky-Memphis Tourism | Library of Congress/World Telegram and Sun/Dick DeMarsico | The Grand Ole Opry; Joel Michah Dennis | Kentucky Tourism<br />

MUSIC CITY MAGIC<br />

NASHVILLE HAS BEEN THE<br />

LAUNCHPAD FOR COUNTLESS<br />

CAREERS AND MUSICAL LEGENDS,<br />

and while the Grand Ole Opry is the big<br />

name in the city’s music history (and<br />

should absolutely be seen) its roots date<br />

back to 1943 and Ryman Auditorium.<br />

Known as “The Carnegie Hall of the<br />

South,” the historic venue has hosted<br />

revivals and stage plays and was the<br />

home of the Grand Ole Opry variety<br />

show from 1943 to 1974. Take a private<br />

tour through the venue with the curator,<br />

and an exit through the stage door places<br />

you at the doorstep of a local honky-tonk<br />

where the stars of tomorrow ply their<br />

trade. Don’t miss a private walk through<br />

the Country Music Hall of Fame and RCA<br />

Studio B, where greats like Dolly Parton<br />

and Willie Nelson recorded hit records.<br />

Woodford<br />

Reserve<br />

Distillery<br />

BLUEGRASS & BOURBON<br />

WHAT COULD A BLUEGRASS PICKER KNOW ABOUT WHISKEY? Quite a lot as it turns out, when whiskey<br />

is the subject of many of his songs. Louisville legend Hickory Vaught leads you on a unique musical tour by way of<br />

downtown Louisville, where live music and an astounding collection of bourbon and whiskey bars await. Outside<br />

of the city, heavy hitters like Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark stand out on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, but they aren’t<br />

the end of the story of the spirit. With a private Ker & Downey driver and guide, you’ll go behind the scenes at some<br />

of the more regionally-famous purveyors. Among these secret spots is the Town Branch Distillery and Brewery, a<br />

barrel-aged distillery that also happens to be the oldest craft brewery in Lexington. Alongside master distiller Mark<br />

Coffman, get expert insight into both crafts and plenty of tastings, too.<br />

See the History of the South full itinerary on kerdowney.com<br />

Forecastle<br />

Music Festival<br />

in Louisville<br />

Carrie Underwood<br />

peforming at The<br />

Grand Ole Opry<br />

KER & DOWNEY 55


LATIN<br />

ARGENTINA<br />

BELIZE<br />

COSTA RICA<br />

CUBA<br />

MEXICO<br />

NICARAGUA<br />

BOLIVIA<br />

ECUADOR &<br />

PANAMA<br />

BRAZIL<br />

GALAPAGOS<br />

PERU<br />

AMERICA<br />

CHILE<br />

COLOMBIA<br />

ISLANDS<br />

GUATEMALA<br />

URUGUAY<br />

PANAMA<br />

Soar over the Panama Canal and<br />

the Pacific and Caribbean coasts<br />

in a private helicopter.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | Camp Cecil | Puerto Valle | Inca Rail<br />

MEXICO<br />

Glamp on the beaches of<br />

Isla Espiritu Santo in the<br />

Gulf of California.<br />

56 KER & DOWNEY


BRAZIL<br />

BRAZIL<br />

Join local scientists as they<br />

track and monitor the elusive<br />

jaguars of the Pantanal.<br />

Paddle down Ushuaia’s Lasiphashai River into the<br />

Beagle Channel in your own inflatable canoe to view<br />

stunning wildlife.<br />

ARGENTINA<br />

Venture out on a horseback ride to spot the<br />

endangered wildlife of the lush Ibera Wetlands.<br />

PERU<br />

Surround yourself in the beautiful Andean<br />

landscape aboard the new 360° Machu<br />

Picchu Train.<br />

BOLIVIA<br />

Enjoy a traditional picnic lunch on the<br />

shores of Lake Titicaca’s Sun Island.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 57


Antigua


QUICK TRIP<br />

Spend 72 hours in the land of eternal spring.<br />

By Haley Beham<br />

In a word, Guatemala is diverse.<br />

Language and rituals from 21 indigenous<br />

Mayan populations and the 16th-century<br />

Spanish conquerors converge to create a<br />

complex cultural heritage. Their influence<br />

can be seen woven throughout the architecture,<br />

cuisine and traditions all over the<br />

country. Its eclectic culture is matched<br />

by the country’s natural beauty found in<br />

14 recognized eco-regions that vary from<br />

mountainous highlands and volcanoes to<br />

shimmering coastline.<br />

Seventy-two hours in Guatemala will only<br />

scratch the surface of all there is to see<br />

and do, but for a quick getaway from the<br />

States, it is an ideal destination. Whether<br />

you’re into hiking volcanoes and zip-lining<br />

or browsing craft markets and drinking<br />

espresso, Guatemala offers something for<br />

every traveler.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 59


The Arco de<br />

Santa Catalina<br />

DAY ONE<br />

after landing in guatemala city, head<br />

straight for antigua. Surrounded by three volcanoes,<br />

Antigua is one of the world’s best-preserved<br />

colonial towns and feels like a world away from the city<br />

sprawl. Pastel walls line cobblestone streets that lead<br />

to colonial-era churches and mansions in this UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site.<br />

The Rose suite<br />

at Posada del<br />

Angel<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Take a tuk tuk up to Antigua’s<br />

lookout point called Cerro de<br />

la Cruz for gorgeous views of<br />

the city. -Trista Gage, Designer<br />

Check into Posada del Angel. Tucked away on a quiet<br />

street, the elegant seven-room boutique hotel is a favorite<br />

hideaway among the world’s dignitaries. Details such as<br />

large, old-fashioned room keys, hand-woven Guatemalan<br />

fabrics, antique four-poster beds and wrought-iron<br />

headboards lend authenticity to the building which was<br />

once a Spanish colonial casona.<br />

Spend the afternoon getting acquainted with Antigua<br />

on a private walking tour through the city, exploring<br />

the Spanish colonial architecture and art. Foodies can<br />

also visit a chocolate museum and learn how to prepare<br />

chocolate from a time-honored Mayan recipe, or visit<br />

a working coffee hacienda to learn about the country’s<br />

most famous export. At sunset, enjoy a rooftop cocktail.<br />

Fans of craft beer can head to Antigua Brewing<br />

Company for a nice menu of sandwiches, burgers and<br />

appetizers to complement their local, artisanal beers.<br />

From their terrace, you’ll have a 360° view of the city and<br />

three volcanoes. Keep your eye on the horizon. The lava<br />

below gives it a warm, red glow after the sun goes down.<br />

Photos courtesy of Austin Mann | iStock | Posada del Angel<br />

60 KER & DOWNEY


DAY TWO<br />

Sunsets light<br />

up the sky at<br />

Pacaya<br />

In the morning, hike up Pacaya, one<br />

of Central America’s most active<br />

volcanoes. The trek up is fairly easy<br />

and suited for a variety of fitness<br />

levels. Once you clear the forests at<br />

the bottom, it feels like you’re walking<br />

on the moon, with dark, volcanic<br />

rock all around. On a clear day, if the<br />

top isn’t covered by clouds, you may<br />

even see it fuming.<br />

In the evening, enjoy traditional<br />

Guatemalan cuisine at Los Tres Tiempos.<br />

For a truly authentic dish, order<br />

pepian, one of the country’s most<br />

common cuisines. Follow up this<br />

rich, dark stew of meat or chicken,<br />

tomatoes and spices with an al fresco<br />

drink or dessert on the restaurant’s<br />

illuminated terrace.<br />

DAY THREE<br />

Set out early for Lake Atitlan, widely regarded<br />

as one of the most beautiful lakes on earth. The<br />

shorelines are picturesque, with tiny villages<br />

dotting the hills above this ancient body of<br />

water. On the way, make a stop at Chichicastenango<br />

in Guatemala’s Western Highlands.<br />

On Thursdays and Sundays, it plays host to<br />

one of Latin America’s largest and most colorful<br />

outdoor markets, famous for its textiles.<br />

Children fly<br />

a giant kite<br />

for Dia de los<br />

Muertos<br />

SAVE THE DATE<br />

Make plans to be in Guatemala on November 1 for Día de los Muertos.<br />

As part of the All Saints’ Day celebrations, the neighboring towns of<br />

Santiago Sacatepequez and Sumpango fly giant (some as big at 100 feet)<br />

colorful kites in the air as part of a 3,000-year-old tradition honoring<br />

departed loved ones. It’s an easy day trip from Antigua and worth it to<br />

see the colorful masterpieces that take to the skies around dusk.<br />

CONSIDER AN ADD-ON<br />

If you have a couple more days to spare, head to Petén, the cradle of the<br />

Mayan civilization. From there, you can explore the UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site of Tikal National Park and see the Mayan wonders at Yaxha.<br />

Later, retreat to the luxe villas of Casa Palopó<br />

for a bit of serenity and spectacular views on<br />

the shores of Lake Atitlan in charming Santa<br />

Catarina Palopó. A private boat cruise takes<br />

you to visit the indigenous villages on the<br />

shores and offers gorgeous views of the volcanoes<br />

surrounding the lake. If you can stretch<br />

your journey more than 72 hours, spend them<br />

in Casa Palopó’s solar-heated infinity pool<br />

overlooking the deep, blue lake.<br />

See a time-lapse video of Guatemala’s<br />

volcanoes by photographer Austin Mann on<br />

Ker & Downey’s Instagram, @kerdowney.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 61


The stunning surreal<br />

landscape of the<br />

Atacama Desert.


SALT of<br />

the EARTH<br />

Discover the surreal song of the planet’s<br />

driest desert in vast, enchanting Chile.<br />

By Elizabeth Frels<br />

I<br />

t only takes one day to fall in love<br />

with the Atacama Desert, a plateau<br />

on South America’s Pacific coast<br />

that meets the Andes on its descending<br />

slopes. Its rugged, ever-shifting<br />

landscape, astronomic clarity and fivestar<br />

amenities are enough for you to feel<br />

like you could stay there for weeks.<br />

The Kari Gorge is one of the lesser known<br />

regions of the Atacama, yet it comes<br />

highly recommended by some of the most<br />

experienced guides in Chile.<br />

Not only is an afternoon outing to Kari<br />

Gorge hyper-personalized to your interests,<br />

but the few guides who lead the<br />

excursion are some of only a handful certified<br />

to protect the environment. In fact,<br />

only two properties in all of Atacama have<br />

access to the Kari Gorge, Explora Atacama<br />

and Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa.<br />

Nothing can quite prepare you for the<br />

gorge’s otherworldly setting, a location<br />

often used in movies as a representation<br />

of Mars. Situated along the edge of the<br />

protected Moon Valley, the scenery is<br />

filled with rugged, jagged rocks. Following<br />

the ridgeline to the gorge, you receive<br />

an uninterrupted view of the area’s iconic<br />

sand dunes and volcanoes.<br />

While the terrain is certainly mesmerizing,<br />

equally fascinating is the story of how<br />

this environment, considered one of the<br />

world’s oldest deserts, came to be.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 59 63


Photos:<br />

Left:<br />

Expert<br />

guides<br />

lead<br />

the way<br />

through<br />

the Moon<br />

Valley;<br />

Right: The<br />

Atacama<br />

Desert<br />

It’s result of a phenomenon owing to<br />

massive high-pressure systems over<br />

the Pacific, cold Antarctic currents<br />

and a barrier created by the towering<br />

Andean mountain range which<br />

prevents moisture from reaching<br />

these parched lands. Remnants of<br />

millions of years of geological activity<br />

are on vibrant display. Formations<br />

and striations reveal where tectonic<br />

movements shifted and where top<br />

layers were settled from volcanic ash.<br />

The most surprising facet to witness,<br />

however, is the salt.<br />

Salt saturates the landscape. Snowy<br />

white in appearance, the salt mountains,<br />

salt lakes, salt waterfalls and<br />

salt rivers surrounding you can easily<br />

trick you into thinking snow has<br />

fallen in the desert. In reality, the<br />

rains have simply evaporated, draping<br />

the land in a crystalline blanket.<br />

Next, descend down the face of a<br />

sand dune toward the valley floor of<br />

the Kari Gorge. This steep slide down<br />

is significant. You are going beyond<br />

the demarcated pathways to set foot<br />

on the pristine dunes of the Atacama<br />

Desert — something very few are allowed<br />

to do.<br />

The gorge itself is about 15 feet wide,<br />

with salt rock walls towering 30 to<br />

40 feet high on either side. One of the<br />

first surprises upon your arrival is a<br />

raging river that looks to be flash frozen<br />

with its waves and crevices<br />

perfectly preserved in the ice.<br />

Your eyes might deceive you<br />

into thinking it is a glacier,<br />

but it is actually just more salt.<br />

In fact, this is what the whole<br />

gorge would look like if people<br />

did not walk through it.<br />

While exploring this natural<br />

wonder, trek inside the gorge’s many<br />

naturally-formed caves, where salt<br />

crystals embed themselves in the rock<br />

face within. The lack of foot traffic<br />

and natural erosion inside the caves<br />

means that the salt deposits inside are<br />

so concentrated that they are prone<br />

to glowing when exposed to light — a<br />

phenomenon easily illuminated by<br />

your cell phone flash.<br />

Perhaps the most memorable experience<br />

amid this land of sand and salt is<br />

toward the end of the three-hour trek<br />

when you are encouraged to pause for<br />

a moment of silence while standing<br />

in the gorge. All of a sudden, the<br />

swelling of sound reaches your ears<br />

as the salt crystals crack, expand and<br />

contract with the changing temperatures<br />

of the desert.<br />

It is an orchestra of crystals, harmonious<br />

and full of soaring moments.<br />

Nature’s composition reminding you<br />

of its undeniable beauty. Even in this<br />

remotest of settings, while celebrating<br />

with a refreshing drink amid the salt<br />

You are going beyond the<br />

demarcated pathways to set<br />

foot on the pristine dunes<br />

of the Atacama Desert —<br />

something very few are<br />

allowed to do.<br />

flats of the Moon Valley, it is difficult<br />

not to be reminded of how severely<br />

impactful your presence is on such a<br />

unique corner of it.<br />

Thankfully, the few guides who<br />

venture into this region have an<br />

undeniable respect for the land. Not<br />

only do they take great care of your<br />

every step, but they also expose you<br />

to aspects of the Atacama otherwise<br />

hidden to the common eye — whether<br />

it is the geological markers that illustrate<br />

the history of the environment;<br />

or the owl regurgitations that divulge<br />

how an animal can survive in such<br />

a harsh habitat; or the prime photo<br />

spots, exposures and settings to snap<br />

the best images, even on your iPhone.<br />

They will also introduce you to the<br />

phenomenon that is the symphony of<br />

salt, a composition you are not likely<br />

to forget.<br />

Contact a Ker & Downey Designer or<br />

your local travel professional to start<br />

planning your personalized stay in<br />

Chile’s Atacama Desert.<br />

Photos courtesy of Explora | Turismo Chile<br />

64 KER & DOWNEY


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Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to<br />

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include the Explora in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


NORTHERN & WESTERN<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

GREENLAND<br />

NETHERLANDS<br />

EUROPE<br />

BELGIUM<br />

DENMARK<br />

ENGLAND<br />

ICELAND<br />

IRELAND<br />

LATVIA<br />

NORWAY<br />

SCOTLAND<br />

SWEDEN<br />

ESTONIA<br />

LIECHTENSTEIN<br />

SWITZERLAND<br />

FINLAND<br />

LITHUANIA<br />

WALES<br />

FRANCE<br />

LUXEMBOURG<br />

GERMANY<br />

MONACO<br />

GREENLAND<br />

Visit an Inuit settlement to learn<br />

about traditional fishing techniques.<br />

SCOTLAND<br />

Embrace the national dress<br />

with a bespoke kilt fitting.<br />

66 KER & DOWNEY


FRANCE<br />

Enjoy a family-friendly treasure<br />

hunt inside the Louvre.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | Royal Fingal Yacht<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

Drive through Salzburg’s idyllic<br />

countryside in a vintage Rolls Royce.<br />

ESTONIA<br />

Shop for weird and wonderful trinkets<br />

at the Soviet Flea Market in Tallin.<br />

BELGIUM<br />

Sip on local beer on an<br />

artisanal brewery tour.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 67


A sprawling, birdseye<br />

view of Berlin


GREAT UN-<br />

EXPECTATIONS<br />

Ker & Downey’s Michael Jackson’s journey through<br />

Berlin and Hamburg reveals that the future of luxury<br />

travel in Germany is all about the unexpected: the<br />

Michelin-starred cuisine, the cultural rebirths and the<br />

old stereotypes finding new identities in a country<br />

ready for its breakout moment.<br />

I expected to love Berlin.<br />

Its creativity, character and flavors always<br />

held more appeal to me than the typical<br />

Paris or Rome European gateways. The city<br />

did not disappoint and impressed me more<br />

than I thought possible.<br />

The magnitude of Berlin’s history alongside<br />

its cosmopolitan progressiveness leaves in its<br />

wake a unique drive to usher tradition into<br />

the modern era.<br />

I see it during a private visit to the Königliche<br />

Porzellan-Manufaktu (KPM) porcelain<br />

factory, which has been producing porcelain<br />

since its founding by King Frederick II of<br />

Prussia in 1763. These miniature masterpieces<br />

and their detailed decorations are still<br />

created by hand. They’re coveted not only<br />

for their exquisite quality, but also for their<br />

sustainable reputation within the home.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 69


Color explodes<br />

at Berlin's East<br />

Side Gallery.<br />

" IF YOU DIVE<br />

DEEPER BEYOND THE<br />

STEREOTYPES AND ONE-<br />

SIZE-FITS-ALL TOURS,<br />

YOU MIGHT JUST FIND<br />

YOURSELF LIKE ME<br />

— WITH SHATTERED<br />

EXPECTATIONS."<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

70 KER & DOWNEY<br />

Vegan travelers will still find<br />

plenty of elevated dining<br />

options — Berlin is Europe’s #1<br />

city for vegan cuisine.<br />

- Michael Jackson, Operations Manager<br />

I see it in the neighborhoods like those surrounding the<br />

Hackesche Höfe, where a private guide reveals traces of the old<br />

Jewish quarter. The meandering streets of the Scheunenviertel<br />

act as a canvas for Eastern European immigrants who have<br />

transformed the heart of Berlin into a visual color explosion.<br />

It’s on display from the gravesite of Moses Mendelssohn to the<br />

places of Jewish Renaissance that blossomed here during the<br />

Weimar Republic.<br />

I also see it in the food. Sausage, pretzels and beer are overshadowed<br />

by fresh, regional cuisine found in trendy hotels and<br />

bars scattered across the city, as well as family-run Riesling<br />

farms and gin distilleries popping up around the peripheries.<br />

My favorite examples are all sugar-filled: the 133-year-old<br />

chocolatier, Sawade, with its thoughtfully made hazelnut and<br />

champagne truffles, and the charmingly deconstructed Black<br />

Forest Cake of Hotel Adlon Kempinski.<br />

Of course 21st-century Berlin would turn something as familiar<br />

as chocolate cake into magic.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | GNTB/photographer Philip Koschel | Michael Jackson


If Berlin exceeded my expectations, Hamburg<br />

shattered them completely.<br />

Though Hamburg is a modern city, it feels as though<br />

it has one foot in the past. Its position on the river<br />

Elbe fortifies its role as the third largest container<br />

port in Europe while also inundating the streets and<br />

shops with new spices, flavors and ideas.<br />

Around 9,000 ship calls and 136.5 million tons of<br />

cargo per year have transformed what could have<br />

been a simple port town into a metropolis of immense<br />

wealth and global influence.<br />

The ornate exterior of City Hall, the 1920s Chilehaus,<br />

Marco Polo Tower, the UNESCO-honored<br />

Speicherstadt warehouse district and the blocks<br />

upon blocks of historic merchant meetinghouses<br />

are all reminders of Hamburg’s open-door policy<br />

to affluence and innovation. They are feasts for the<br />

architectural eye.<br />

There is also an immense respect for seafood I never<br />

saw coming.<br />

The Hamburg Fish Market, an institution since 1703,<br />

is a Sunday tradition along the shores of the Elbe.<br />

Market barkers out-scream each other. Shoppers<br />

are coaxed with the promise of free salmon as they<br />

stroll from stall to stall. Late-night revelers gorge<br />

themselves on early morning fish sandwiches. And<br />

some, like me, are just there to enjoy the lively<br />

atmosphere with views across the harbor.<br />

Hamburg's<br />

ornate City Hall<br />

The most memorable surprises for me are the<br />

velvety eel at Fischereihafen, relished as the boats<br />

floated by my window; and the elevated Japanese-Peruvian<br />

cuisine of the Fairmont Hotel Vier<br />

Jahreszeiten’s Nikkei Nine restaurant. The culinary<br />

mash-up as executed by Executive Chef Ben Dayag<br />

and Sushi Master Yuki Hamasaki introduce me to<br />

my new favorite sashimi.<br />

Knowing Hamburg’s history of global trade, it<br />

makes sense that a restaurant like this would exist.<br />

But to the average visitor, it’s the last thing you<br />

might anticipate from German cuisine.<br />

The synthesis of old and new, tradition and innovation,<br />

is what makes my time in Germany so unique.<br />

If you dive deeper beyond the stereotypes and onesize-fits-all<br />

tours, you might just find yourself like<br />

me — with shattered expectations.<br />

A seafood dish<br />

prepared at<br />

Fischereihafen<br />

KER & DOWNEY 71


GERMANY<br />

THE ULTIMATE GOURMAND’S GUIDE<br />

Move over, beer and bratwurst. During<br />

the last decade, Germany’s culinary scene<br />

has blossomed, making the country one of<br />

Europe’s most exciting foodie destinations<br />

distinguished by international influences,<br />

innovative chef-driven eateries and hyperregional<br />

cuisine.<br />

Sure, beer is firmly cemented in Germany’s<br />

cultural history — as evidenced by the<br />

country’s 1,300 breweries and the weekslong<br />

beer worship at Oktoberfest (the<br />

world’s largest folk celebration). But the<br />

land of poets and thinkers is also home to 13<br />

wine-growing regions and 300 Michelinstarred<br />

restaurants. Only France, the birthplace<br />

of haute cuisine, has more epicurean<br />

temples to its name.<br />

Germany’s spectrum of gastronomic experiences<br />

is as vast as it is surprising, whether<br />

it's centuries-old traditional dishes unique<br />

to each region, internationally-lauded<br />

menus in cosmopolitan hubs, locallyproduced<br />

beverages in rustic inns, seasonal<br />

food festivals catering to the world travelers<br />

or food-themed tourist routes for the adventurous<br />

at heart.<br />

Delve deeper into Germany with Ker &<br />

Downey’s quintessential food-lovers guide<br />

and explore every corner of the country.<br />

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG<br />

In Stuttgart savor Maultaschen, miniature<br />

ravioli-style pasta parcels filled with<br />

meat, spinach, onion and parsley. Legend<br />

has it they were invented by monks<br />

who didn’t want to go without meat<br />

during Lent, so they secretly encased the<br />

forbidden luxury inside pasta.<br />

BAVARIA<br />

Dive into the land of lederhosen along<br />

Bavaria’s Beer and Castle Route, which<br />

introduces travelers to Germany’s history<br />

and countryside, as well as several<br />

local breweries, some with secret recipes<br />

dating back 500 years. With over 40 beer<br />

varieties and 1,000 brands each with its<br />

own unique flavor, it’s no wonder why<br />

Bavaria is known as the land of everflowing<br />

amber nectar.<br />

BRANDENBURG<br />

While in Brandenburg, be sure to gobble<br />

up the gherkins, the most famous export<br />

of the Spree Forest. The beautiful Gherkin<br />

Cycle Route is an especially thrilling<br />

way to learn about this crunchy snack,<br />

as it leads cyclists on a 160-mile journey<br />

following the entire production process<br />

from field to fork.<br />

BREMEN<br />

Enjoy a private tour of one of Bremen’s<br />

many roasting houses. Ever since 1673,<br />

when the first coffee house in a Germanspeaking<br />

country opened in Bremen, the<br />

city has exhibited an undeniable passion<br />

for the caffeinated drink and is now considered<br />

one of Europe’s premiere coffeetrading<br />

capitals.<br />

HESSEN<br />

Head to one of Frankfurt’s local cider<br />

houses for a sip of Ebbelwoi cider, the<br />

signature drink of the Hessen region.<br />

Traditionally served in a blue earthenware<br />

‘bembel’ pitcher, the cider is best enjoyed<br />

alongside hearty dishes such as pork<br />

chops, blood sausages or the regional<br />

specialty of 'Grie Soß' (green sauce).<br />

MECKLENBURG-WESTERN POMERANIA<br />

Visit Rügen Island to witness the regional<br />

sea buckthorn harvested off the coast.<br />

This thorny shrub is rich in vitamins and<br />

minerals and its orange berries are often<br />

found in local oils, juices, teas, preserves,<br />

liqueurs, wine and grog.<br />

LOWER SAXONY<br />

Embark on an epicurean tour through<br />

asparagus country. Known as the royal<br />

vegetable, this white delicacy dominates<br />

the Lower Saxony landscape, especially<br />

from March through June during asparagus<br />

harvesting season. Highlights of this<br />

route include the medieval asparagusproducing<br />

town of Burgdorf, the Asparagus<br />

Museum in Nienburg and a tour<br />

through the beautiful city of Hannover.<br />

NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA<br />

North Rhine-Westphalia produces an<br />

extensive range of beers, including<br />

kölsch from Cologne and altbier from<br />

Düsseldorf. Take part in a beer workshop<br />

and visit the brewery museum in<br />

Dortmund to learn everything there is<br />

to know about brewing beer.<br />

RHINELAND-PALATINATE<br />

Follow the German Wine Route<br />

from the famous Dürkheim<br />

Barrel in Bad Dürkheim to the<br />

German Wine Gate of Schweigen-Rechtenbach.<br />

In the<br />

country’s ancient wine region,<br />

visitors will find Riesling, Pinot<br />

Grigio and Dornfelder wines<br />

flowing on the side of the road,<br />

in tasting rooms and in numerous<br />

wine bars along the way —<br />

especially during wine festival<br />

season between mid-August<br />

and early October.<br />

SAARLAND<br />

You can’t visit Saarland without<br />

tasting the popular delicacy of<br />

Dibbelabbes, a hash of grated<br />

potato, leek, bacon and herbs<br />

and served with homemade<br />

apple sauce.<br />

SAXONY<br />

Attend Dresden’s Christmas<br />

Striezelmarkt in December for<br />

a taste of Christstollen, possibly<br />

the most famous holiday pastry<br />

in the world. This geographically<br />

protected fruit bread is<br />

produced by just 130 Dresden<br />

bakeries, each with their own<br />

top-secret family recipe.<br />

SAXONY-ANHALT<br />

Take a detour to a local dairy in<br />

Saxony-Anhalt for an introduction<br />

to Harz cheese. High<br />

in protein and low in fat, these<br />

healthy morsels have been a favorite<br />

in this region for several<br />

hundred years.<br />

SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN<br />

Home to more than 120 different<br />

varieties of artisanal cheeses,<br />

Schleswig-Holstein plays host to<br />

the Schleswig-Holstein Gourmet<br />

Festival, a 30-year old event<br />

known for attracting international<br />

Michelin-starred chefs<br />

to northern Germany between<br />

September and March each year.<br />

72 KER & DOWNEY


Asparagus and<br />

white wine<br />

Enjoying wine at<br />

Weingeniesser<br />

Chef Johannes<br />

King of Söl'ring<br />

Hof Sylt<br />

Hessische Bergstrasse<br />

wine region<br />

Photos courtesy of GNTB/Deutsches Weininstitut, Jens Wegener


EASTERN & SOUTHERN<br />

ALBANIA<br />

GEORGIA<br />

ROMANIA<br />

EUROPE<br />

ARMENIA<br />

AZERBAIJAN<br />

BOSNIA &<br />

GREECE<br />

HUNGARY<br />

ITALY<br />

RUSSIA<br />

SERBIA<br />

SLOVAKIA<br />

HERZEGOVINA<br />

MALTA<br />

SLOVENIA<br />

BULGARIA<br />

MONTENEGRO<br />

SPAIN<br />

CROATIA<br />

POLAND<br />

TURKEY<br />

CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

PORTUGAL<br />

UKRAINE<br />

TURKEY<br />

Take in a spellbinding whirling<br />

dervish show in Cappadocia.<br />

ROMANIA<br />

View bears in the<br />

Carpathian Forest,<br />

home to over 45<br />

percent of Europe’s<br />

brown bears.<br />

74 KER & DOWNEY


SPAIN<br />

Get lost in the rhythm of flamenco at a<br />

private masterclass and performance.<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Set sail on the Volga River to discover the lesserknown<br />

villages that line its verdant banks.<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock | Elizabeth Frels | Volga Dream | Avan Dzoraget<br />

ARMENIA<br />

Stay in a medieval castle hidden<br />

away in the Caucasus Mountains.<br />

GREECE<br />

Meet the resident beekeeper of Nafplio<br />

and taste his award-winning honey.


El Alhambra in Granada


SPANISH<br />

STEPS<br />

Ker & Downey’s Rina Chandarana<br />

journeys to Seville and Granada<br />

and discovers the heart of<br />

Andalusia, a vibrant fusion of<br />

Spanish and Moorish cultures.<br />

“keep going,” encouraged a determined<br />

traveler, striding up the stairs<br />

ahead of me. I looked back, panting and<br />

saw the red-roofed city below.<br />

There are easier ways to get to the imposing<br />

13th century Alhambra, a Moorish<br />

fortress, the jewel in Granada’s crown. I<br />

chose the well-worn scenic route, which<br />

was also a step back in time.<br />

Starting in the year 711, the ruling North<br />

African sultans referred to this area as<br />

Al-Andalus and the Alhambra is their<br />

greatest legacy. Stone walls adorned with<br />

exquisite tiled patterns burst with color<br />

and Arabic calligraphy. All the detailed<br />

archways are perfectly symmetrical — a<br />

mathematical masterpiece.<br />

I wandered the manicured gardens, dotted<br />

with shimmering reflective pools,<br />

soaring palms and bubbling fountains.<br />

The snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountains<br />

lay in the distance. It’s no wonder<br />

why the Moors wanted to stay.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 77


T<br />

he UNESCO World Heritage Site peeks between<br />

the maze of slender cobblestone lanes that wind<br />

up higher between white-washed homes, convents<br />

and churches of the Albayzin neighborhood.<br />

A Gitano musician strums on a guitar, his<br />

raspy, passionate song wafting into the chilly air. Brooding<br />

clouds add a moody magic. Spain cast its spell on me, and I<br />

am totally enthralled.<br />

That evening, I climbed another hill (there are many in<br />

Granada) to get to Sacromonte, Granada's flamenco mecca.<br />

When the Gitanos first arrived from India centuries ago<br />

they carved out simple caves in the soft rock. The moonlit<br />

Alhambra, a constant companion, shimmered across<br />

the valley. The faint sound of music leads me into a cave.<br />

Copper spoons and pots — a reminder that this was once<br />

someone’s home — dangle from the ceiling.<br />

Musicians bang on drums and sing. Dancers shout “Ole!”,<br />

their frilly skirts morphing into a blur of color as they spin,<br />

and feet are electric with clacking and stomping. Shiny<br />

black hair is pinned with decorative combs, ruby red roses<br />

and fans. The atmosphere is charged with a powerful and<br />

infectious energy. One woman pulls me up and I attempt<br />

to mimic her snapping fingers. I don’t even understand<br />

Spanish, but I’m completely caught up in the moment.<br />

A local flamenco<br />

dancer performing<br />

in Granada<br />

White-washed<br />

homes at sunset<br />

78 KER & DOWNEY


View of Seville<br />

from the Cathedral<br />

Photos courtesy of iStock<br />

A<br />

lthough there’s no shortage<br />

of architectural stunners<br />

in Seville, its main<br />

draw is the 10th century<br />

Alcazar, a palace still inhabited<br />

by the royal family. Southern<br />

Spain is a Mudejar treasure trove,<br />

Islamic and Christian architectural<br />

styles merging in a beyond-beautiful<br />

blend. Intricate plasterwork and<br />

delicately painted azulejo tiles add<br />

decorative flourishes.<br />

Turn to any page of “The Arabian<br />

Nights” and the Alcazar would fit<br />

perfectly into its stories of princesses,<br />

palaces and far-away lands. Thinking<br />

of this I drifted into a fairytale garden,<br />

my path interrupted by colorful,<br />

proud peacocks.<br />

The massive Seville Cathedral is the<br />

city’s focal point and sits on the site<br />

of a former mosque. Bright oranges<br />

bulge from the inner courtyard’s<br />

trees. This hallowed building houses<br />

the remains of Christopher Columbus,<br />

whose travels amassed overflowing<br />

wealth for Seville. I repeatedly craned<br />

my neck up to see an even more stirring<br />

azulejo-tiled depiction of a tearful<br />

Mary, the Esperanza de Triana.<br />

After Granada’s leg workout, I sacrificed<br />

myself again and jolted up the<br />

35 ramps of the Giralda, the minaret<br />

-turned-bell tower, to get a beautiful<br />

view of Seville’s blue skies, church<br />

domes and bright homes.<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Sevillanos linger alfresco over tapas.<br />

Pale green olives burst in my mouth<br />

with tangy delight. Cortado coffee, a<br />

bold espresso, was far stronger and<br />

tastier than anything back home.<br />

Lightly spiced chickpeas tucked into<br />

spinach, crispy toasts topped with<br />

tomato marmalade and glasses of<br />

red wine were the day’s fuel. I refuse<br />

to admit just how many napolitana<br />

de chocolate croissants I ate. Maybe<br />

my legs were tired from exploring<br />

so much of southern Spain, but my<br />

senses and my taste buds were happy<br />

as Andalusia softly sang to my heart.<br />

Go during the weeks leading up<br />

to Easter when large floats and<br />

processions are being prepared<br />

and the weather is just right.<br />

- Rina Chandarana, Marketing and<br />

Content Assistant<br />

KER & DOWNEY 79


SOUTH<br />

PACIFIC<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

FIJI<br />

FRENCH POLYNESIA<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

PAPUA NEW GUINEA<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

Enjoy a private cruise of the<br />

Marlborough Sounds aboard<br />

the MV Tarquin.<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

Sample the wines of Valli Vineyards<br />

in Central Otago, South Island.<br />

Photos courtesy of Valli Vineyards | Park Hyatt Sydney | Arnhemland Safaris.,Tourism Australia | Kauri Cliffs | Rob Suisted<br />

80 KER & DOWNEY


AUSTRALIA<br />

Explore Sydney Harbor from the waterfront<br />

and the luxurious Park Hyatt.<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

Take a private technical lesson<br />

with a golf pro on the greens at<br />

Kauri Cliffs on North Island.<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

Discover 50,000 years of indigenous<br />

history through the stories depicted<br />

in Aboriginal rock art.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 81


Tahiti sunset<br />

TAHITI<br />

The biggest French Polynesian island delivers<br />

surreal sunsets with silhouettes of swaying<br />

palms and peaked islets against a pink and<br />

purple-streaked sky. It may be a dot in the<br />

vast Pacific, but its natural beauty and cultural<br />

contributions are boundless. Enjoy a delicious<br />

dinner with the sizzling sunset backdrop as<br />

traditional Tahitian dancers shake their hips<br />

in frilly skirts and elaborate headpieces. Their<br />

coordinated dance performances are energetic<br />

and accompanied by fast drum beats.


SOUTH PACIFIC<br />

ESCAPES<br />

It’s time you had some of the best island<br />

experiences on earth. By Rina Chandarana<br />

New Zealand, Hawaii, Easter Island, Tahiti and so many of<br />

the South Pacific islands have offered inspiration and escape for<br />

centuries. Brimming with natural beauty, the islands are home<br />

to ancient cultures and a soulful way of life that is deeply connected<br />

to the rhythms of the world’s vastest ocean. There are<br />

plenty of reasons to lose yourself in these island idylls.<br />

Marquesas Islands<br />

MARQUESAS ISLANDS<br />

The Marquesas are just about as far-flung as you can get with barely a footprint on their white<br />

sand beaches, lush jungles and clear, calm lagoons. Once you arrive, you will feel like you have<br />

discovered paradise. Jump into a 4-wheel-drive vehicle and explore the winding coast before<br />

visiting an archaeological site in Puamau on the tip of Hiva Oa where unique Tiki statues were<br />

unearthed. Takai is the tallest known Polynesian stone.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 83


EASTER ISLAND<br />

There aren’t many places that feel as<br />

completely detached from the rest of<br />

the planet as Easter Island, or Rapa<br />

Nui, as it is known. The inhabited<br />

island, with a population under<br />

6,000 is one of the most isolated in<br />

the world. The allure of seeing the<br />

massive stone statues, called moai,<br />

draws adventure seekers to this<br />

remote spot. Some of the moai stand<br />

32 feet tall, and there are at least 900<br />

of them scattered around the island.<br />

Explore the archaeological and anthropological<br />

sites and enjoy a picnic<br />

in the shadow of the looming figures.<br />

PRO<br />

TIP!<br />

Plan ahead to go to Easter Island<br />

in February when the Tapati<br />

Festival recreates ancient royal<br />

traditions. - Catherine Brown, Designer<br />

Moai on<br />

Easter island<br />

84 KER & DOWNEY


Traditional<br />

lei making in<br />

Hawaii<br />

HAWAII<br />

When the Polynesians<br />

arrived in Hawaii,<br />

they brought their<br />

food, medicines and<br />

tradition of making<br />

leis. Learn how to<br />

make these wreaths<br />

of flowers and vines<br />

often given to visitors<br />

as a symbol of peace<br />

and greeting.<br />

Te Puia, Rotorua<br />

Photos courtesy of Tahiti Tourisme | New Zealand Tourism, Julian-Apse | iStock<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

There’s a serene feeling among the lofty trees near Tane Mahuta, God of the Forest, a giant kauri tree estimated<br />

to be between 1,250 and 2,500 years old. Cape Regina, the northernmost tip of New Zealand’s North Island is<br />

considered a spiritual place for the Maori who believe that it’s where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld.<br />

Feel immersed in Maori culture in the Te Whakearewarewa Thermal Valley of Rotorua, a wonderland of<br />

gushing waters, steaming vents, boiling mud pools and spectacular geysers. Follow a Treetops Lodge & Estate<br />

chef on a Maori food trail followed by a delicious lunch.<br />

KER & DOWNEY 85


JOURNEYS<br />

Ker & Downey's Top Itineraries<br />

Rome, Italy<br />

86 KER & DOWNEY


CULINARY JOURNEYS<br />

ITINERARY<br />

A TASTE OF ITALY<br />

10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />

This is Ker & Downey’s quintessential Italy food and<br />

wine tour, plating up the finest culinary delights and<br />

bottled vintages from Tuscany, Rome and Sorrento.<br />

With luxury villa accommodations, expert guides and<br />

exclusive hands-on cooking classes, you will savor every<br />

last drop of Italy’s delectable art, culture and cuisine.<br />

SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />

DAY 1-3: TUSCANY | VILLA SAN PAOLO<br />

DAY 4-6: ROME | PARK HOTEL VILLA GRAZIOLI<br />

DAY 7-10: SORRENTO | GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE<br />

KER & DOWNEY 87


WELLNESS JOURNEYS<br />

ITINERARY<br />

KOREAN WELLNESS RETREAT<br />

7 DAYS / 6 NIGHTS<br />

The legendary healing arts and beauty treatments of<br />

Korea are yours to enjoy with Ker & Downey. Indulge<br />

in treatments at the country’s best spas, soak in the<br />

natural beauty of Jeju Island and go behind the scenes<br />

with top beauty brands alongside your private guide.<br />

SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />

DAY 1: SEOUL | ORAKAI HOTEL<br />

DAY 2-3: JEJU ISLAND | WE HOTEL<br />

DAY 4-7: SEOUL | NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR<br />

SEOUL YONGSANG<br />

88 KER & DOWNEY


SOUTH KOREA<br />

A Wonderful Land<br />

of Contrasts<br />

Photo of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul<br />

Seoul is a thriving modern city that embraces its traditional past. It is amazing to walk through<br />

this great 600 year old city and discover Buddhist Temples and Royal Palaces nestled among<br />

sleek, high-rise buildings, creating serene oases in the midst of vibrant city life. The rest of<br />

this country also has wonderful places to behold. From the mountains in PyeongChang, which<br />

hosted the 2018 Winter Olympics, to the bustling beaches at Busan, to the quieter and naturally<br />

lush UNESCO World Natural Heritage Jeju Island, Korea has something for everyone.<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include South Korea in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


ROMANCE/HONEYMOON<br />

ITINERARY<br />

BALI LUXURY HONEYMOON<br />

10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />

The Island of the Gods beckons on this 10-day<br />

Bali luxury honeymoon, the ultimate romantic<br />

escape. From the rice paddies of Ubud to the private<br />

beaches of the Lombok Strait, Ker & Downey has<br />

gathered all of Bali’s most breathtaking resorts and<br />

secluded hideaways to create what you will no doubt<br />

remember as the honeymoon of a lifetime.<br />

SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />

DAY 1-3: UBUD | VICEROY BALI<br />

DAY 4-6: CANDIDASA | AMANKILA<br />

DAY 7-10: JIMBARAN | AYANA RESORT<br />

90 KER & DOWNEY


ESCAPE TO<br />

Bali<br />

Viceroy Bali is a family-owned<br />

luxury hotel, featuring 25 stunning<br />

private pool villas that offer<br />

absolute privacy and unparalleled<br />

jungle valley views. Located five<br />

minutes from the center of Ubud,<br />

the villas are complemented by<br />

5-star facilities, including a worldclass<br />

spa, fine dining restaurants<br />

and private helipad.<br />

V<br />

Viceroy Bali<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />

Viceroy Bali in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


ACTIVE/ADVENTURE<br />

ITINERARY<br />

ECUADOR:<br />

THE AMAZON AND ANDES<br />

10DAYS / 9 NIGHTS<br />

The countryside of Ecuador comes to life on this<br />

picturesque ten-day journey. Discover the rural<br />

villages outside of Quito and the Amazon’s lush jungle,<br />

and end at the doorstep of the Andean Highlands.<br />

SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />

DAY 1: QUITO | CASA GANGOTENA<br />

DAY 2-4: OTAVALO | HACIENDA ZULETA<br />

DAY 5-6: AMAZON | HAMADRYADE LODGE<br />

DAY 7: QUITO | CASA GANGOTENA<br />

DAY 8-10: COTOPAXI | HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO<br />

92 KER & DOWNEY


EXPLORE<br />

QUITO<br />

CASA GANGOTENA<br />

There it awaits: a meticulously renovated colonial<br />

mansion in the heart of Quito’s Historic Downtown.<br />

Elegant. Stately. Grand. Reserved.<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />

Casa Gangotena in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


LUXURY SAFARI<br />

ITINERARY<br />

A LUXURY KALAHARI SAFARI<br />

13DAYS / 12NIGHTS<br />

Exclusivity is the quintessential hallmark of this<br />

stunning 13-day luxury Kalahari safari through<br />

South Africa. Experience the finest boutique<br />

accommodations and most coveted corners of natural<br />

beauty from Cape Town and Hermanus in the south to<br />

the Kalahari and Madikwe in the north.<br />

SUGGESTED JOURNEY AT A GLANCE:<br />

DAY 1-4: CAPE TOWN | ELLERMAN HOUSE<br />

DAY 5-7: HERMANUS | GROOTBOS GARDEN LODGE<br />

DAY 8-10: KALAHARI | TSWALU KALAHARI<br />

DAY 11-13: MADIKWE GAME RESERVE |<br />

MATEYA SAFARI LODGE<br />

94 KER & DOWNEY


LUXURY SAFARI IN<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

TSWALU KALAHARI<br />

Tswalu guests are in search of rarity, adventure, privacy and inspirational travel.<br />

This extraordinary property provides all of these and more.<br />

With the emphasis on privacy and exclusivity, guests take pleasure in an authentic African wildlife<br />

experience while they are exposed to the wonders of the Kalahari ecosystem and Tswalu’s conservation<br />

vision. Expect to see some of Africa’s rarest and most extraordinary wildlife — including black-maned<br />

lions, African wild dogs and pangolins — and to enjoy the flexibility of the safari experience with a<br />

private vehicle, guide, and tracker.<br />

A variety of game-viewing experiences includes game drives, guided bush walks, horseback safaris and<br />

bird watching. Spend time with colonies of habituated meerkats; book a night under the Kalahari sky<br />

at the Malori sleep-out deck; or indulge in some pampering at the Safari Spa. Visit the site of some of<br />

the oldest Bushman rock engravings in Africa. Or take a helicopter flip to learn more about Tswalu’s<br />

conservation efforts, and enjoy a private picnic on the peaks of the Korannaberg Mountains.<br />

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include<br />

Tswalu Kalahari in your next custom journey.<br />

+1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM


THE<br />

SHOT<br />

ONE PICTURE, ONE MOMENT,<br />

ONE MEMORY CAPTURED BY<br />

PHOTOGRAPHER MARK<br />

EDWARD HARRIS<br />

I based myself in La Paz on Mexico’s<br />

Baja Peninsula for an extended weekend<br />

photographing gray whales and diving<br />

with whale sharks. Both were incredible<br />

experiences but for very different<br />

reasons. One thing a still camera can’t<br />

record is the sounds of the whales<br />

blowing air out of their blowholes. At<br />

times we were surrounded by whales,<br />

and they put on a magnificent symphony.<br />

Diving with whale sharks was<br />

a very different (but just as intense)<br />

experience. To be only a few feet away<br />

from these magnificent 18- to 33-foot<br />

creatures effortlessly gliding through<br />

the water was humbling to say the least.<br />

For this gray whale off the coast of Lopez<br />

Mateo photograph, I used a Nikkor<br />

300mm f/2.8 lens on my Nikon D850<br />

set to 1/3200th of a second at f/10, ISO<br />

200. Long lenses and fast shutter speeds<br />

are the name of the game when photographing<br />

most animals in the wild.<br />

While in La Paz I made a pilgrimage to<br />

Sorstis, my favorite restaurant in Baja.<br />

One cannot live by photography alone.<br />

Mark Edward Harris’ assignments have taken him to 98<br />

countries on six continents. His editorial work has appeared<br />

in publications such as Vanity Fair, Life, Time, GEO, Conde<br />

Nast Traveler, AFAR, as well as all the major photography<br />

and in-flight magazines. His commercial clients range from<br />

The Gap to Coca-Cola to Mexicana Airlines. He is the recipient<br />

of numerous awards including a CLIO, ACE, Aurora<br />

Gold, and Photographer of the Year at the Black & White<br />

Spider Awards. His books include Faces of the Twentieth<br />

Century: Master Photographers and Their Work, The Way of<br />

the Japanese Bath, Wanderlust, North Korea, South Korea,<br />

and Inside Iran. www.MarkEdwardHarris.com<br />

@MarkEdwardHarrisPhoto<br />

96 KER & DOWNEY


MALARIA KILLS MORE THAN ONE MILLION PEOPLE EACH YEAR,<br />

WITH 90% OF THEM OCCURRING IN SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA. 75%<br />

OF THESE DEATHS OCCUR IN CHILDREN UNDER 5 .<br />

OUR GOAL<br />

TO PROVIDE 18,000 NETS TO COMMUNITIES TO HELP REDUCE THE<br />

RISK OF LIFE-THREATENING DISEASES<br />

DONATE<br />

FOR EVERY NET PURCHASED KER & DOWNEY WILL DONATE A NET.<br />

DONATE SECURELY ON OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM AND<br />

TYPE “NETS FOR AFRICA” UNDER ADD SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS<br />

TO THE SELLER.<br />

TOGETHER WE CAN STOP THE STING OF MOSQUITO BITES


EXPERIENTIAL.<br />

LUXURY.<br />

TRAVEL.<br />

Kingston treehouse at Lion Sands<br />

Forget group tours, long lines or packaged experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored<br />

fit, and our artist’s signature is threaded throughout. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and<br />

exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill<br />

of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.<br />

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT US ON THE WEB AT<br />

KERDOWNEY.COM | INFO@KERDOWNEY.COM | 800.423.4236<br />

THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS KERDOWNEY.COM

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