Wanted in Rome DEC 2021

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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. <strong>in</strong> abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. <strong>in</strong> L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 11 <strong>DEC</strong>EMBER <strong>2021</strong> | € 2,00<br />

WHAT'S +<br />

ON<br />





CONT<br />


4. Dante's Inferno can<br />

still create images<br />

of hell on earth<br />

today<br />

Mary Wilsey<br />



GENIUS<br />

Mart<strong>in</strong> Bennett<br />



Andy devane<br />


18. ROME FOR children<br />

20. STREET ART guide<br />

22. MUSEUMS<br />



42. <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> rome junior<br />

45. RECIPE<br />

46. puntarella rossa<br />



32. ART news<br />

34. OPERA<br />

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38. Dance<br />

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Ventur<strong>in</strong>i<br />

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl,<br />

Via delle Coppelle 9<br />

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl<br />

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari<br />

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.<br />

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl,<br />

Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.<br />

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del<br />

30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>ito di stampare il 30/11/<strong>2021</strong><br />

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. <strong>in</strong> abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. <strong>in</strong> L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 11 <strong>DEC</strong>EMBER <strong>2021</strong> | € 2,00<br />


WHAT'S +<br />

ON<br />




Piazza della Rotonda<br />

by Thomas W. Schaller<br />

Watercolour, 38x38 cm<br />

www.thomasschaller.com<br />


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ENTS<br />

4<br />

Dante's Inferno can still create<br />

images of hell on earth today<br />

30 10<br />




38<br />


Art<br />






Mary Wilsey<br />

The exhibition Inferno at Scuderie del<br />

Quir<strong>in</strong>ale, open until 9 January, marks the<br />

700th anniversary of the death of Dante<br />

Alighieri. Com<strong>in</strong>g shortly after the show on Raffaele,<br />

to mark the 500th anniversary of the pa<strong>in</strong>ter's birth,<br />

this is another feather <strong>in</strong> the Scuderie's cap.<br />

While the Raffaele exhibition had to shut because<br />

of the covid-19 lockdown, L'Inferno was organised<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g the pandemic. It is an impressive achievement<br />

that the curator and French art historian, Jean Clair,<br />

together with the Le Scuderie del Qur<strong>in</strong>ale, managed<br />

to put together 232 works, from 87 collections<br />

and 15 countries at a time when the world was<br />

effectively still <strong>in</strong> lockdown, or at least not work<strong>in</strong>g<br />

at its normal pace.<br />

It is strange therefore that images of plagues and<br />

their various manifestations are nowhere to be<br />

seen <strong>in</strong> this exhibition. How many pandemics over<br />

the centuries have created their own versions of<br />

hell, death, fear, anxiety, lonel<strong>in</strong>ess and economic<br />

Dante <strong>in</strong> exile by Domenico Petarl<strong>in</strong>i (1897).<br />

4 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Gli orrori della guerra: l’esodo by Gaetano Previati (1917).<br />

devastation? Perhaps the pandemic is still too close<br />

to us, too difficult to understand, to have been<br />

<strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> this exhibition.<br />

Clair first thought up the idea of an exhibition on<br />

the subject of hell <strong>in</strong> happier times, back <strong>in</strong> 2006. It<br />

was turned down when he suggested it to the Prado.<br />

Perhaps that was not the right moment, when<br />

thoughts of hell and the devil had almost vanished<br />

from the public sphere. So it was not until the<br />

Scuderie approached the French art historian to<br />

mark the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante<br />

that the exhibition at the Quir<strong>in</strong>ale came <strong>in</strong>to be<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

The anniversary of Dante's death was a good reason<br />

to look at the theme of hell. But as Clair himself<br />

expla<strong>in</strong>s, this exhibition is not only about Dante<br />

and the first book of The Div<strong>in</strong>e Comedy. It is about<br />

the manifestations of hell on earth. Start<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

the portrayal of hell and the devil <strong>in</strong> the teach<strong>in</strong>gs<br />

of the Mediaeval Church, it follows through with<br />

more recent manifestations of hell, such as war,<br />

the dehumanisation of the <strong>in</strong>dustrial revolution,<br />

genocide, mental illness, terrorism. It is all the<br />

more surpris<strong>in</strong>g therefore that it completely ignores<br />

plague as one of its hells.<br />

The exhibition beg<strong>in</strong>s with the silent film<br />

Inferno made <strong>in</strong> 1911 by Francesco Bertol<strong>in</strong>i.<br />

Here anyone who has read, or set out to read,<br />

the first book of The Div<strong>in</strong>e Comedy will feel at<br />

home. Not surpris<strong>in</strong>gly the seats at the top of<br />

the first magnificent flight of the Scuderie stairs<br />

are occupied ma<strong>in</strong>ly by young students, probably<br />

well-versed <strong>in</strong> their Dante. For those who want<br />

to move on quickly to the rest of this exhibition<br />

there is another chance to see the film on the<br />

way out.<br />

The first few rooms are dom<strong>in</strong>ated by scenes of<br />

multitudes of writh<strong>in</strong>g, naked bodies <strong>in</strong> various<br />

states of agony and confusion. One of the first<br />

examples is La Caduta degli Angeli Rebelli by<br />

Francesco Bertos (1750), carved from a s<strong>in</strong>gle<br />

piece of Carrara marble. Another is a small<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g Gli Inferi (1622) by Monsù Desiderio<br />

(François de Nome) who worked most of his<br />

life <strong>in</strong> Naples. The pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g from the Bresançon<br />

Museum of Art and Archaeology stands out for<br />

its composition, light<strong>in</strong>g, perspective and sheer<br />

complexity of the array of small white bodies<br />

writh<strong>in</strong>g their way across the scene.<br />

However it is unquestionably the plaster of<br />

Rod<strong>in</strong>'s massive unf<strong>in</strong>ished Gates of Hell <strong>in</strong>spired<br />

by Dante's Inferno that dom<strong>in</strong>ates the early<br />

part of the exhibition. Its 180 figures were a<br />

foundation for much of Rod<strong>in</strong>'s subsequent work,<br />

as is evident from some of the smaller figures<br />

on display <strong>in</strong> the exhibition. Rod<strong>in</strong> worked on<br />

the Gates of Hell most of his life but was never<br />

satisfied and never f<strong>in</strong>ished them completely. Not<br />

long before he died <strong>in</strong> 1917 he gave the draw<strong>in</strong>gs<br />

and sculptures to the French state but they were<br />

not f<strong>in</strong>ally cast <strong>in</strong> bronze until 1928.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 5

Their sheer size acts as both an <strong>in</strong>spiration for<br />

visitors to the exhibition and a barrier. In order to<br />

get the correct perspective the Gates are set so far<br />

back <strong>in</strong> the room that it is difficult to manoeuvre<br />

around them, especially when they are blocked<br />

by a guided group of visitors. The Gates have<br />

a fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g history of their own, but for the<br />

purposes of this exhibition it is excit<strong>in</strong>g enough<br />

to see the central figure, orig<strong>in</strong>ally called The Poet,<br />

after Dante of course, but which became the model<br />

for The Th<strong>in</strong>ker, one of the world's best-loved pieces<br />

of sculpture.<br />

In sharp contrast to Rod<strong>in</strong>'s massive Gates are the<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs of Dante alongside Virgil guid<strong>in</strong>g him<br />

through hell. The red of Dante's cloth<strong>in</strong>g lightens<br />

the unremitt<strong>in</strong>g darkness of the exhibition space<br />

and his well-known face is comfort<strong>in</strong>gly familiar<br />

compared with all the pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs of contorted<br />

bodies <strong>in</strong> the first few rooms. Even the pensive<br />

and sorrowful portrait from the Uffizi of Dante <strong>in</strong><br />

Exile by Domenico Petarl<strong>in</strong>i (1897) is better than<br />

the visions of hell that come before it.<br />

La Caduta degli Angeli Rebelli by Francesco Bertos (1750).<br />

A series of sensitive contemporary mixed media<br />

works by Miquel Barceló, who produced 300<br />

illustrations between 2000 and 2002 for The<br />

Div<strong>in</strong>e Comedy, lighten the gloom <strong>in</strong> one of the<br />

follow<strong>in</strong>g rooms. They manage to convey Barceló's<br />

own feel<strong>in</strong>g of just how contemporary The Div<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Comedy still is today.<br />

Up the w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g stairs to the next floor and the<br />

scene of Sicilian puppets br<strong>in</strong>gs a welcome relief,<br />

well expla<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> its label:<br />

"Nella cultura popolare l'<strong>in</strong>ferno e il diavolo assumono<br />

a volte un carattere meno m<strong>in</strong>accioso o additura<br />

burlesco, che esprime al contempo la paura che ispirano<br />

e la possibilità di sconfiggerlo."<br />

For a moment the prevail<strong>in</strong>g feel<strong>in</strong>g of evil shifts<br />

as the emphasis of the exhibition moves away from<br />

visions of hell to the devil himself, a character once<br />

so feared <strong>in</strong> religious belief but now dismissed as<br />

superstitious nonsense <strong>in</strong> contemporary society.<br />

Next comes a series of pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, one by Cézanne,<br />

on the Temptations of St Anthony of Egypt. The<br />

key to these is not so much the small Cézanne<br />

but the work by the Neapolitan pa<strong>in</strong>ter Domenico<br />

Morelli pa<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> 1878 and probably <strong>in</strong>fluenced<br />

by Flaubert's prose poem of the same name.<br />

Here is a mix of eroticism and mysticism, realism<br />

and symbolism, with St Anthony centre stage,<br />

Gates of Hell by Auguste Rod<strong>in</strong>.<br />

clutch<strong>in</strong>g his cloak around him, as he stares <strong>in</strong>to<br />

the far distance to avoid the temptations of two<br />

seductive women clearly enjoy<strong>in</strong>g their efforts to<br />

drive the desert father to desperation.<br />

From these temptations <strong>in</strong> a religious key the<br />

exhibition moves to the hell on earth of the 19th and<br />

20th centuries. The subjects make a devastat<strong>in</strong>gly<br />

long list; <strong>in</strong>dustrialisation, the brutality of<br />

6 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

two world wars, death and disfiguration, the<br />

exterm<strong>in</strong>ation of the concentration camps, the<br />

Holocaust, madness, terrorism. The canvases<br />

crowded with desperate bodies are back, push<strong>in</strong>g<br />

up aga<strong>in</strong>st each other, either <strong>in</strong> death or try<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to avoid it. The pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g by Gaetano Previati, Gli<br />

orrori della guerra: l’esodo (1917) shows civilians<br />

flee<strong>in</strong>g death <strong>in</strong> a scene that is all too familiar<br />

today, whether of Afghanis push<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> desperation<br />

to climb on to get-away planes at Kabul airport or<br />

of cold, starv<strong>in</strong>g refugees on the Belarus border<br />

forced up aga<strong>in</strong>st the barbed wire across the<br />

Polish frontier.<br />

One pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g stands out among the others, La<br />

Matta by Giacomo Balla (1905) from the National<br />

Gallery <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>. The woman illustrates another<br />

form of hell, of the <strong>in</strong>ability to control one's body,<br />

of lonel<strong>in</strong>ess and isolation. The lone woman<br />

stands at an open door, alone but not alone, as she<br />

desperately attempts to control her movements and<br />

to communicate with someone <strong>in</strong>side the room.<br />

From one agony to another, to that of disfigured<br />

faces, plaster casts of faces disfigured by the<br />

wounds of war, the liv<strong>in</strong>g dead. Here is the<br />

double tragedy not just of the physical pa<strong>in</strong> of<br />

the disfigured faces but also of the annihilation of<br />

their previous identity.<br />

Mov<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the next room the orig<strong>in</strong>al typescript<br />

of Primo Levi's If this is a Man, the testimony to<br />

his time <strong>in</strong> Auschwitz, seems shock<strong>in</strong>gly down<br />

to earth. Here are pages familiar to anyone who<br />

grew up with typewriters; the cross<strong>in</strong>gs out,<br />

the additions, the re-writ<strong>in</strong>gs, the pa<strong>in</strong>stak<strong>in</strong>g<br />

afterthoughts before a work is f<strong>in</strong>ally sent to<br />

the publisher. The onlooker cannot help feel<strong>in</strong>g<br />

guilty to be look<strong>in</strong>g so dispassionately at this<br />

sanitised version of the Holocaust, of what is left<br />

of that desperate suffer<strong>in</strong>g and subsequent pa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

The Tw<strong>in</strong> Towers <strong>in</strong> Flames (2003) by British<br />

sculptor Raymond Mason doesn't manage to<br />

convey the shock of that out-of-the-blue event<br />

but it takes the exhibition right up to date and<br />

conveys once aga<strong>in</strong> the crowd<strong>in</strong>g, the lack of<br />

space, of bodies push<strong>in</strong>g up aga<strong>in</strong>st each other <strong>in</strong><br />

terror and horror.<br />

Then f<strong>in</strong>ally, <strong>in</strong> the last section, we are out to the<br />

stars, almost as though we were clamber<strong>in</strong>g out<br />

of that hell-hole ourselves <strong>in</strong> those wonderful last<br />

l<strong>in</strong>es of Dante's L'<strong>in</strong>ferno.<br />

La Matta by Giacomo Balla (1905).<br />

E senza cura aver d'alcun riposo<br />

salimmo su, el primo e io secondo,<br />

tanto ch'i' vidi delle cose belle<br />

che porta 'l ciel, per un pertugio tondo --<br />

e qu<strong>in</strong>di uscimmo a riveder le stelle.<br />

"And with no rest from the fatigue of it,<br />

We clambered up, he first, till f<strong>in</strong>ally I saw the<br />

heavenly spheres<br />

Through a round hole, the aperture whence we<br />

Emerged to look once more upon the stars".<br />

Two works by Anselm Keifer end the exhibition but<br />

we aren't quite out of hell yet. There is someth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

challeng<strong>in</strong>g about Stelle Cadente (1995). Here is a<br />

man on his back under the stars, motionless with<br />

his eyes shut, as though there were someth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

troubl<strong>in</strong>g and challeng<strong>in</strong>g him as he lies <strong>in</strong> a deathlike<br />

position. Is it wonder or fear? as he lies <strong>in</strong> a<br />

death-like position. Is it wonder or fear?<br />

It is only as we walk down the magnificent f<strong>in</strong>al<br />

staircase of Le Scuderie, with its view over the<br />

roof tops of <strong>Rome</strong>, off to the dome of St Peter's <strong>in</strong><br />

the distance, that we are f<strong>in</strong>ally able to leave those<br />

images of hell beh<strong>in</strong>d.<br />

8 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 9

Art<br />



GENIUS<br />



Mart<strong>in</strong> Bennett<br />

Open any guide-book and, to reduce fame<br />

to a crude word-count, the Bs have it:<br />

Bern<strong>in</strong>i and Borrom<strong>in</strong>i. Or vice-versa. Part<br />

alphabetical/alliterative co<strong>in</strong>cidence perhaps, part<br />

their biographically fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g rivalry, Bern<strong>in</strong>i and<br />

Borrom<strong>in</strong>i have tended to push Pietro da Cortona<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>’s third Baroque genius to the background.<br />

Right of SS. Maria Maggiore’s altar Bern<strong>in</strong>i’s simple<br />

grave-slab conta<strong>in</strong>s the phrase ‘<strong>DEC</strong>US ARTIUM<br />

ET URBIS’/ glory of arts and city. The same could<br />

be said of Pietro da Cortona. Spectacular ceil<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />

tapestries, fresco-cycles, church and palace façades<br />

and an entire church, SS. Luca e Mart<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>in</strong> the<br />

Roman Forum. His work adorns <strong>Rome</strong>, and also<br />

beyond.<br />

Like Bern<strong>in</strong>i’s father, Cortona was Tuscan, together<br />

with the same-named town (Cortona) the pa<strong>in</strong>ter,<br />

a.k.a Pietro Berrett<strong>in</strong>i, is named after. And it was<br />

Florent<strong>in</strong>e merchant-banker/ecclesiastical family,<br />

the Sacchetti, who supplied his first commissions.<br />

He designed one of the family villas, the s<strong>in</strong>cedemolished<br />

Casa del Pigneto – out along Via Aurelia,<br />

north of the Tiber – and brilliantly reproduced it on<br />

canvas. Undepicted are the mosquitoes which would<br />

soon make the palace un<strong>in</strong>habitable. Between the<br />

Tiber and a sail-flecked sea, the build<strong>in</strong>g stands<br />

spotlit by a break <strong>in</strong> the clouds.<br />

Cortona's vast Allegory of Div<strong>in</strong>e Providence and Barber<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Power marked a watershed <strong>in</strong> Baroque pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

In the Sachetti family’s second/substitute ‘casa’, 66<br />

Via Giulia, his portrait of Card<strong>in</strong>al Giulio Sacchetti<br />

(now <strong>in</strong> Galleria Borghese) was long the salone’s<br />

centre-piece. For the card<strong>in</strong>al’s brother, Marcello,<br />

there were a series of early pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs eventually<br />

passed down to the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e museum. One is a<br />

haunt<strong>in</strong>g depiction of Marcello, a model of taste<br />

10 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

and elegance. An anxious/melancholy gaze and the<br />

left hand clutch<strong>in</strong>g a white handerchief suggests<br />

the illness caus<strong>in</strong>g the nobleman’s untimely death<br />

(1629).<br />

Tuscan connections recurr<strong>in</strong>g, when Maffeo<br />

Barber<strong>in</strong>i (from another exiled Florent<strong>in</strong>e family)<br />

became pope, Marcello Sacchetti was appo<strong>in</strong>ted<br />

his general and secret treasurer. Pietra da Cortona,<br />

talent already proven, was <strong>in</strong> the right place and at<br />

the right time, progress<strong>in</strong>g from Sacchetti pa<strong>in</strong>ter/<br />

architect to papal one. But, unlike occasionally<br />

volatile Bern<strong>in</strong>i and the <strong>in</strong>famously grumpy<br />

Borrom<strong>in</strong>i, Cortona with his reassur<strong>in</strong>gly stable<br />

character wasn’t <strong>in</strong>cl<strong>in</strong>ed to throw such opportunities<br />

away. To quote art historian Jorg Merz, “He moved<br />

gently through <strong>Rome</strong>’s quarrelsome artistic world,<br />

avoid<strong>in</strong>g the limelight.” Writ<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> 1736, Pascoli<br />

(one of Cortona’s biographers) describes him as<br />

“friendly and charm<strong>in</strong>g, courteous and wary when<br />

he spoke of himself.”<br />

And so to his frescoes <strong>in</strong> S. Bibiana, where <strong>in</strong> 1624,<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g fitful renovation work, masons came upon<br />

two urns. Given the church’s associations with the<br />

family home of the Roman martyr, the pope quickly<br />

identified the rema<strong>in</strong>s as the sa<strong>in</strong>t’s, and a favourable<br />

omen for his papacy. Sacchetti provid<strong>in</strong>g fund<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

renovation was stepped up. Bern<strong>in</strong>i assumed<br />

architectural duties, Cortona that of pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g one of<br />

the three naves. The church nowadays stands like<br />

an abandoned ship between Term<strong>in</strong>i’s numerous<br />

rail-tracks.<br />

‘Se piove pe’ Santa Bibiana, piove quaranta giorni e<br />

un’ settimana’ goes a local proverb. (If it ra<strong>in</strong>s<br />

on S. Bibiana’s Day, it’ll ra<strong>in</strong> for 40 days and a<br />

week.) And Cortona’s frescoes (of the sa<strong>in</strong>t refus<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to worship pagan gods, and her subsequent<br />

martyrdom) are <strong>in</strong>terwoven with motifs depict<strong>in</strong>g<br />

lush fruit and foliage. The bucolic imagery po<strong>in</strong>ts<br />

back to the fertility of Horti Lic<strong>in</strong>iani outside, a<br />

source of herbs aga<strong>in</strong>st nervous disorders, the sa<strong>in</strong>t<br />

appropriat<strong>in</strong>g curative powers previously attributed<br />

to the M<strong>in</strong>erva Medic<strong>in</strong>a Roman temple down the<br />

road (Via Giolitti.)<br />

Cortona and Bern<strong>in</strong>i next meet <strong>in</strong> the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Museums. In Cortona’s theatrical and life-sized<br />

Rape of the Sab<strong>in</strong>e Women. Like the sculptor, Cortona<br />

designed masques and stage-sets and two figures <strong>in</strong><br />

the foreground seem familiar; their poses borrow<br />

from Bern<strong>in</strong>i’s Daphne and Apollo/ Pluto and<br />

Proserp<strong>in</strong>e statues. Hereby sav<strong>in</strong>g costs of a model?<br />

The Baroque façade of S. Maria della Pace was added by<br />

Cortona at the behest of Pope Alexander VII.<br />

From his apprenticeship under Domenich<strong>in</strong>o,<br />

Cortona was a prolific drawer; sculptures and friezes<br />

supplied a repertoire of ready-made, dramaticallyproven<br />

stances. Yet, adopt<strong>in</strong>g the then-fashionable<br />

idea that pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g and poetry are sides of the same<br />

co<strong>in</strong>, Cortona would add any number of imag<strong>in</strong>ative,<br />

sometimes humorous touches of his own.<br />

In his Triumph of Bacchus <strong>in</strong> the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e Museums,<br />

for example, an <strong>in</strong>fant centaur totters on the tips of<br />

his hooves to peer <strong>in</strong>side an amphora. Offsett<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

classical fixities of the temple beh<strong>in</strong>d is the rollick<strong>in</strong>g<br />

energy of the god’s entourage. A riot of colour as<br />

well as limbs, critics cit<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>in</strong>fluence of Rubens<br />

who had passed through <strong>Rome</strong> not long before<br />

(1606-8). Cortona’s versality cont<strong>in</strong>ues <strong>in</strong> a ‘protolandscape’<br />

of the alum m<strong>in</strong>e to which Pope Urban<br />

had awarded the Sacchetti family a monopoly.<br />

Inside Palazzo Barber<strong>in</strong>i Cortona takes a leap <strong>in</strong><br />

scale. Climb either stairway – Borrom<strong>in</strong>i’s spiral or<br />

Bern<strong>in</strong>i’s grand, if-more-conventional, equivalent<br />

– the ceil<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the Salone hosts another triumph,<br />

‘The Allegory of Div<strong>in</strong>e Providence and Barber<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Power.’ Cortona directs a cast of hundreds.<br />

Artist fees often depended on just that, the number<br />

of figures portrayed, here to the pr<strong>in</strong>cely tune of<br />

4000 ducats. Temperance, Religion and Piety<br />

personified, occupy their respective clouds. Fury,<br />

disarmed, recl<strong>in</strong>es on his weapons. Dunce Titans<br />

get flunked by a spear-wield<strong>in</strong>g M<strong>in</strong>erva. Crane<br />

your neck some more and there’s Hercules clubb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Avarice’s harpies. At ceil<strong>in</strong>g’s centre hover, like<br />

heraldic aeroplanes, so-called ‘bomber bees’, the<br />

Barber<strong>in</strong>i symbole.<br />

Images of nepotism? Cortona a servant of power?<br />

But wait. Off to one side Silenus, the boozy centaur,<br />

appears to slip Providence’s gaze. As he’s poured<br />

another dr<strong>in</strong>k, the glorious slob, on transfer for<br />

“The Triumph of Bacchus”, almost steals the<br />

scene. Cortona, then, is a secret satirist? Except,<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 11

Art<br />

this piece of street theatre’s effect that a wall-notice<br />

stipulates the design be <strong>in</strong> no way changed by future<br />

generations. Today’s crowds keep to nearby Piazza<br />

Navona. Comparatively secluded, Piazza della Pace,<br />

match<strong>in</strong>g its name, rema<strong>in</strong>s one of Roma’s most<br />

delightful squares. And to th<strong>in</strong>k Cortona claimed<br />

his architecture was a mere hobby…<br />

Also little visited <strong>in</strong> SS. Luca and Mart<strong>in</strong>a. As<br />

tourists shuttle between the Roman Forum and<br />

Campidoglio, the church is easily overlooked, which<br />

is a pity, given its beautiful crypt. Cortona’s work<br />

actually began back under Pope Urban, <strong>in</strong>spired,<br />

as with S. Bibiana, by concurrent exhumation of<br />

a sa<strong>in</strong>t – Mart<strong>in</strong>a. The rema<strong>in</strong>s’ authenticity has<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce been contested*, but <strong>in</strong>itially fortune and/or<br />

providence seemed <strong>in</strong> Cortona’s favour. Until his<br />

patron, Card<strong>in</strong>al Francesco Barber<strong>in</strong>i, was accused<br />

by Innocent X of embezzlement and fled to France.<br />

A seven year <strong>in</strong>terruption ensued. After which<br />

Cortona’s work started aga<strong>in</strong>, this time on the upper<br />

church, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g rose-stuccoed dome and the floor<br />

where he would eventually be buried.<br />

Self portrait by Pietro da Cortona.<br />

from his sympathetic portrait of Urban VIII back<br />

<strong>in</strong> the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e Museums one may hazard that<br />

the Barber<strong>in</strong>i pope is smil<strong>in</strong>g too. The ceil<strong>in</strong>g could<br />

have turned out differently. While Cortona was away<br />

decorat<strong>in</strong>g Florence’s Pitti Palace, two overween<strong>in</strong>g<br />

assistants determ<strong>in</strong>ed to complete the masterwork<br />

on their own. However their presumption was<br />

checked when the <strong>in</strong>tonaco / plaster ran out,<br />

stuccatori’s / plasterers’ pay hav<strong>in</strong>g fallen <strong>in</strong> arrears.<br />

Urban’s papacy once ended, Barber<strong>in</strong>i card<strong>in</strong>als<br />

hav<strong>in</strong>g fled to France, one might expect a downturn<br />

<strong>in</strong> Cortona’s fortunes. But, talent and tact ever to<br />

the fore, he was soon decorat<strong>in</strong>g pro-Spanish<br />

Innocent X’s Pamphilij palace/ new power-centre <strong>in</strong><br />

Piazza Navona with “Stories of Aeneas.” Ownership<br />

currently rest<strong>in</strong>g with the Brazilian embassy, the<br />

fresco-cycle is visitable twice a week for guided<br />

tours <strong>in</strong> Italian and Portuguese.<br />

Under Alexander VII, Cortona’s first Chigi<br />

commission was S. Maria della Pace.<br />

The facade of the new church, alternat<strong>in</strong>g concave<br />

and convex a la Borrom<strong>in</strong>i, conjured harmony from<br />

urban mess. Better seen than described, a conf<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

space suddenly seemed much larger. So pleas<strong>in</strong>g was<br />

Out of envy or no, some of Cortona’s fellow S. Luca<br />

academicians suspected a plot to turn the church,<br />

(his ‘beloved daughter’ he called it) <strong>in</strong>to a private<br />

mausoleum**. The lower church was roped off<br />

and a six-year controversy broke out. Accus<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

academicians of obtructionism, Cortona’s supporters<br />

prevailed, duly plac<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the lower church a more<br />

fulsome wall-plaque/cenonotaph and bust.<br />

Not that Cortona ceased pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g altogether. Next<br />

door to the rippl<strong>in</strong>g façade of Borrom<strong>in</strong>i’s Oratory,<br />

S. Maria <strong>in</strong> Vallicella comb<strong>in</strong>es spectacle with the<br />

miraculous. Look up and one sees an expanse of<br />

(blue) sky. The church-roof, or its rema<strong>in</strong>s, threatens<br />

to crash down on one’s head. Only the presence of<br />

the Virg<strong>in</strong> and some strong-armed putti prevent<br />

disaster.<br />

Cortona cont<strong>in</strong>ued creat<strong>in</strong>g alterpieces. In<br />

Borrom<strong>in</strong>i’s S. Ivo, then <strong>in</strong> S. Carlo dei Cat<strong>in</strong>ari.<br />

In Pope Alexander’s 1661 refurbishment of Castel<br />

Gandolfo’s church to newly-canonised Tommaso<br />

da Villanova, he created The Crucifixion altarpiece.<br />

Work<strong>in</strong>g alongside him <strong>in</strong> the church was Bern<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

as they had done back <strong>in</strong> S. Bibiana 37 years before.<br />

*Donatella Sparti, Article, 998<br />

**Cor<strong>in</strong>na Ricosoli- from ‘Who telleth a tale of unspeak<strong>in</strong>g<br />

death’, Dubl<strong>in</strong><br />

12 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>


1 JANUARY <strong>2021</strong>?<br />

Make sure your residency <strong>in</strong> Italy is easily recognised. Request your<br />

new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon<br />

as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same th<strong>in</strong>g as your<br />

electronic ID card.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>d out more on gov.uk/liv<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>italy

Christmas <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />






Andy Devane<br />

Te best known crib exhibition <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>, and<br />

perhaps <strong>in</strong> the world, is 100 Presepi. The <strong>2021</strong><br />

edition of the <strong>in</strong>ternational display, now <strong>in</strong> its<br />

46 th year, is be<strong>in</strong>g held under the colonnade <strong>in</strong> St Peter’s<br />

Square from 5 January until 9 January. A firm fixture on<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>’s Christmas calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts<br />

some Nativity scenes from across Italy and dozens of other<br />

countries.<br />

In addition to contemporary replicas of traditional 18thcentury<br />

Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and 19th-century<br />

Roman mangers, there are modern versions made from<br />

wood, papier-mâché and terracotta, as well as unconventional<br />

materials such as sand, rice and metal. 100 Presepi was<br />

established <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1976 and took place <strong>in</strong> Piazza<br />

del Popolo until four years ago. Today it is organised by<br />

the Vatican’s Pontifical Council for the Promotion of the<br />

New Evangelisation. For visit<strong>in</strong>g details see website, www.<br />

presepi.it.<br />

This year’s Nativity scene <strong>in</strong> St Peter’s Square will feature<br />

30 life-sized figur<strong>in</strong>es dressed <strong>in</strong> Andean costumes <strong>in</strong> what<br />

is the Vatican’s first crib to come from the Americas. The<br />

Nativity scene, which was created by five artists from the<br />

Chopcca Nation of <strong>in</strong>digenous peoples <strong>in</strong> the Huancavelica<br />

region of Peru, will feature alpacas, vicunas and the<br />

Andean condor, Peru’s national symbol.<br />

Christmas <strong>in</strong> St Peter's Square<br />

several years ago.<br />

The figur<strong>in</strong>es, made of ceramic, maguey wood and<br />

fibreglass, will be dressed <strong>in</strong> traditional Chopcca costumes.<br />

Baby Jesus will be represented as a “Hilipuska” child,<br />

reports Vatican News, wrapped <strong>in</strong> a typical Huancavelica<br />

blanket tied with a “chumpi” or woven belt. The Three<br />

Wise Men will carry traditional food <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g qu<strong>in</strong>oa and<br />

other <strong>in</strong>digenous cereals, and they will be accompanied by<br />

llamas draped <strong>in</strong> the Peruvian flag.<br />

The <strong>in</strong>auguration ceremony at 17.00 on 10 December will<br />

also see the Vatican switch on the lights on its Christmas<br />

tree, a 28m-high spruce gifted from the northern Trent<strong>in</strong>o<br />

region of Italy. The 113-year-old tree, weigh<strong>in</strong>g eight tons,<br />

comes from a susta<strong>in</strong>able forestry management project <strong>in</strong><br />

Andalo whose artisans have handcrafted the 600 wooden<br />

decorations.<br />

A traditional-style crib can be found each year <strong>in</strong> the<br />

church of off Largo Chigi, <strong>in</strong> the city centre, which for the<br />

last six decades has housed the work of Italian members<br />

of the global crib-build<strong>in</strong>g association Amici del Presepio.<br />

A more unusual manger scene can be found near St Peter’s<br />

on Via dei Cavalleggeri 5. The street cleaner’s crib, owned<br />

and cared for by <strong>Rome</strong>’s refuse collection company AMA,<br />

has a floor conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g over 1,400 different stones brought<br />

by pilgrims from all over the world. For details about<br />

visit<strong>in</strong>g the presepe dei netturb<strong>in</strong>i see AMA website www.<br />

amaroma.it.<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>’s Christmas tree, a 25-metre high fir from Trent<strong>in</strong>o,<br />

is located <strong>in</strong> Piazza Venezia. This year’s tree is dedicated<br />

to the battle aga<strong>in</strong>st food waste and world hunger by<br />

the <strong>Rome</strong>-based UN Food and Agriculture Organization<br />

which will place 17 giant gift packages – symbolis<strong>in</strong>g<br />

FAO’s 17 Susta<strong>in</strong>able Development Goals – at the tree’s<br />

base, local media reports. The tree will be illum<strong>in</strong>ated<br />

at 17.30 on 8 December, on the religious feast of the<br />

Immaculate Conception, with the lights along the city’s<br />

ma<strong>in</strong> thoroughfare, Via del Corso, switched on at the same<br />

time.<br />

14 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Italy's first<br />

AP School<br />

admissions@aosr.org<br />

www.aosr.org/admissions<br />

The Best of an<br />

American-International<br />



This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with<br />

beautiful views of its clear water and surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />

forests. The picturesque towns along the shores<br />

serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer<br />

papal palace whose gardens were recently opened<br />

to the public. On the other side of the lake is<br />

Palazzolo, a villa bought by <strong>Rome</strong>’s Venerable<br />

English College <strong>in</strong> 1920 and now open to guests. The<br />

towns surround<strong>in</strong>g the lake are known for their<br />

restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimm<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

fish<strong>in</strong>g and boat<strong>in</strong>g are among the favourite<br />

activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located<br />

on the western shore. A simple 45-m<strong>in</strong>ute tra<strong>in</strong> ride<br />

from Term<strong>in</strong>i, visitors can reach Lago Albano by<br />

tak<strong>in</strong>g the FL4 tra<strong>in</strong> towards Albano Laziale and<br />

gett<strong>in</strong>g off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.<br />

around<br />

rome<br />


Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake<br />

where divers <strong>in</strong> the 19th century discovered two<br />

large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor<br />

Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom<br />

of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.<br />

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are<br />

on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.<br />

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the<br />

lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century<br />

foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated<br />

with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for<br />

the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.<br />

Visitors can reach the lake by tak<strong>in</strong>g the SS7 Appia<br />

southbound as far as Genzano, and then follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

signs for Nemi.<br />


Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus,<br />

Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop<br />

set amid lush woodland and hills. The surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />

nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is<br />

most characteristic of the area are the hazel and<br />

chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels<br />

offer swimm<strong>in</strong>g, sail<strong>in</strong>g and horse rid<strong>in</strong>g. The two<br />

towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola<br />

with its magnificent and recently restored Villa<br />

Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-m<strong>in</strong>ute drive from<br />

<strong>Rome</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>g the SS2 Cassia, and turn<strong>in</strong>g north at<br />

Sutri.<br />


Located on the site of the Vuls<strong>in</strong>i volcano, dormant<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands<br />

and is surrounded by roll<strong>in</strong>g hills and vegetation. The<br />

area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore<br />

of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! w<strong>in</strong>e. The<br />

town of Bolsena <strong>in</strong> the northeast is a popular tourist<br />

resort <strong>in</strong> summer and it is here that the famous<br />

so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place <strong>in</strong> 1263<br />

when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood<br />

com<strong>in</strong>g from the host that he had just consecrated<br />

at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake<br />

is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides<br />

activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year<br />

round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from<br />

<strong>Rome</strong> is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Term<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Station are <strong>in</strong>frequent.<br />


Just north-west of <strong>Rome</strong> along the Via Cassia, Lake<br />

Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes<br />

for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a<br />

little ferry) means it rema<strong>in</strong>s an ideal spot for<br />

swimm<strong>in</strong>g, sail<strong>in</strong>g and canoe<strong>in</strong>g. The Lega Navale<br />

operates a d<strong>in</strong>ghy sail<strong>in</strong>g school <strong>in</strong> Anguillara.<br />

Churches and historic sites are located <strong>in</strong> the three<br />

small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano<br />

and Anguillara. There are also places for camp<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and horse rid<strong>in</strong>g tours by the lake, which is just an<br />

hour on the Viterbo tra<strong>in</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e from <strong>Rome</strong>’s Ostiense<br />

station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century<br />

Ors<strong>in</strong>i-Odescalchi castle <strong>in</strong> Bracciano, often chosen<br />

as the venue for jet-set wedd<strong>in</strong>gs, and there is also<br />

an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.<br />


This t<strong>in</strong>y volcanic lake just to the east of Lake<br />

Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with<br />

scenic views of the surround<strong>in</strong>g meadows and<br />

wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor<br />

activities such as horse rid<strong>in</strong>g, hik<strong>in</strong>g, mounta<strong>in</strong><br />

bik<strong>in</strong>g and swimm<strong>in</strong>g. Umbrellas, loungers and<br />

luggage storage are available to rent along with<br />

canoes, sailboats and w<strong>in</strong>dsurf<strong>in</strong>g equipment. It is<br />

also known for the hot sulphurous spr<strong>in</strong>gs surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the lake. Arriv<strong>in</strong>g at Lago di Martignano by car<br />

is the easiest option. Reach<strong>in</strong>g the lake by public<br />

transport <strong>in</strong>volves tak<strong>in</strong>g the FM3 tra<strong>in</strong> to Cesano<br />

and opt<strong>in</strong>g for either a local bus or taxi.<br />

16 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>


A reward<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

education. Ages 2 to 18.<br />

Request <strong>in</strong>formation!<br />

+39 06 84482 651<br />

rome<strong>in</strong>ternationalschool.it<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 17

ARTandSEEK<br />

Please note that not all of these activites<br />

English-language are currently open, cultural due workshops to the and covid-19 visits to<br />

museums<br />

crisis. It<br />

and<br />

is<br />

exhibitions<br />

advisable<br />

for<br />

to<br />

children<br />

check<br />

<strong>in</strong><br />

websites<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>. For<br />

event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com,<br />

or see website, www.artandse-<br />

for visit<strong>in</strong>g details and make reservation<br />

ekforkids.com.<br />

before go<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Bioparco<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>'s Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers<br />

special activities for children and their families at<br />

weekends and dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer. When little legs<br />

get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric<br />

tra<strong>in</strong>. Open daily. Viale del Giard<strong>in</strong>o Zoologico 20<br />

(Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.<br />

Bowl<strong>in</strong>g Silvestri<br />

This sports club has an 18-hole m<strong>in</strong>i golf course,<br />

with good facilities for children aged 4 and over,<br />

adults and disabled children.<br />

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and<br />

a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta),<br />

tel. 0666158206, www.bowl<strong>in</strong>gsilvestri.com.<br />

Casa del Parco<br />

Eco-friendly workshops, <strong>in</strong> Italian, <strong>in</strong> which kids<br />

can learn about nature and how to care for the<br />

environment. Located <strong>in</strong> the Valle dei Casali nature<br />

park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409,<br />

www.valledeicasali.com.<br />

Cas<strong>in</strong>a di Raffaello<br />

Play centre <strong>in</strong> Villa Borghese offer<strong>in</strong>g a programme<br />

of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural<br />

projects and educational activities for children from<br />

the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and<br />

17.00. Viale della Cas<strong>in</strong>a di Raffaello (Porta P<strong>in</strong>ciana),<br />

tel. 060608, www.cas<strong>in</strong>adiraffaello.it.<br />

18 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

C<strong>in</strong>ecittà World<br />

This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic<br />

of c<strong>in</strong>ema features high-tech attractions, real and<br />

virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super<br />

Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with<br />

c<strong>in</strong>ematic special effects. Located about 10 km from<br />

EUR, south of <strong>Rome</strong>. Via di Castel Romano, S.S.<br />

148 Pont<strong>in</strong>a, www.c<strong>in</strong>ecittaworld.it.<br />

Climb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Associazione Sportiva Climb<strong>in</strong>g Side. Basic and<br />

competitive climb<strong>in</strong>g courses for 6-18 year olds.<br />

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torr<strong>in</strong>o/Mostacciano),<br />

tel. 3356525473.<br />

Explora<br />

The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises<br />

creative workshops for small children <strong>in</strong> addition to<br />

hold<strong>in</strong>g regular animated lectures, games and<br />

meet<strong>in</strong>gs with authors of children’s books. Via<br />

Flam<strong>in</strong>ia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.<br />

Go-kart<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for<br />

children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult<br />

and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see<br />

website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.<br />

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.<br />

Gymboree<br />

This children's centre caters to little people aged<br />

from 0-5 years, offer<strong>in</strong>g Play and Learn activities,<br />

music, art, baby play, school skills and even English<br />

theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante<br />

(Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.<br />

Hortis Urbis<br />

Association provid<strong>in</strong>g hands-on horticultural<br />

workshops for children, usually <strong>in</strong> Italian but sometimes<br />

<strong>in</strong> English, <strong>in</strong> the Appia Antica park. Weekend<br />

activities <strong>in</strong>clude sow<strong>in</strong>g seeds, cultivat<strong>in</strong>g plants and<br />

harvest<strong>in</strong>g vegetables. Junior gardeners must be<br />

accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia<br />

Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.<br />

Il Nido<br />

Based <strong>in</strong> Testaccio, this association supports<br />

expectant mothers, parents, babies and small<br />

children. It holds regular educational and social<br />

events, many of them <strong>in</strong> English. Via Marmorata<br />

169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.<br />

Luneur<br />

Located <strong>in</strong> the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is<br />

Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights <strong>in</strong>clude<br />

ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo<br />

tunnel, maze, giant sw<strong>in</strong>g and a Wizard of Oz-style<br />

farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee<br />

€2.50, payable <strong>in</strong> person or onl<strong>in</strong>e. Via delle Tre<br />

Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.<br />

Ra<strong>in</strong>bow Magicland<br />

The 38 attractions at <strong>Rome</strong>'s biggest theme park are<br />

divided <strong>in</strong>to three categories: brave, everyone, and<br />

kids. Highlights <strong>in</strong>clude down-hill raft<strong>in</strong>g, a water<br />

roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and<br />

the Shock launch coaster. Located <strong>in</strong> Valmonte,<br />

south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038<br />

Valmontone, www.ra<strong>in</strong>bowmagicland.it.<br />

Time Elevator<br />

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D c<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

experience with a motion-base platform, br<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the history of <strong>Rome</strong> to life <strong>in</strong> an accessible and fun<br />

way. The time-mach<strong>in</strong>e's commentary is available<br />

<strong>in</strong> six languages <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g English. Daily<br />

11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS.<br />

Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.<br />

Zoomar<strong>in</strong>e<br />

This amusement and aquatic park outside <strong>Rome</strong><br />

offers performances with dolph<strong>in</strong>s, parrots and<br />

other animals for children of all ages. It is also<br />

possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10<br />

must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca<br />

61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomar<strong>in</strong>e.it.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 19

<strong>Rome</strong>’s <strong>Rome</strong>'s reputation as as an an important street art art capital cont<strong>in</strong>ues to to grow grow with with new new murals murals by important by Italian Italian and<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternational and <strong>in</strong>ternational street street artists artists appear<strong>in</strong>g appear<strong>in</strong>g all the all time. the Most time. of Most the works of the are works located are <strong>in</strong> located the suburbs, <strong>in</strong> the suburbs, often far often from the far<br />

centre. from the Here centre. is where Here to is f<strong>in</strong>d where <strong>Rome</strong>’s to f<strong>in</strong>d ma<strong>in</strong> the street ma<strong>in</strong> art street projects art and projects murals. and murals around <strong>Rome</strong>.<br />

Esquil<strong>in</strong>o<br />

Esquil<strong>in</strong>o<br />

Murals Murals by by Alice Alice Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i, Gio Gio<br />

Pistone, Nicola Alessandr<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura,<br />

dell'Architettura,<br />

Piazza Mafredo Manfredo Fanti Fanti 47. 47.<br />

Marconi<br />

Marconi<br />

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo<br />

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo<br />

Gestito dai Rom), a project by French<br />

Gestito dai Rom), a project by French<br />

street street artist artist Seth Seth is located is located <strong>in</strong> a former <strong>in</strong> a<br />

former soap factory soap factory on Via on Antonio Via Antonio Avoga-<br />

Avogadro, opposite opposite Ostiense's Ostiense’s landmark<br />

landmark Gasometro. Gasometro. For For details see see<br />

www.999contemporary.com.<br />

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di<br />

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di<br />

Metropoliz<br />

Metropoliz<br />

This<br />

This<br />

former<br />

former<br />

meat<br />

meat<br />

factory<br />

factory<br />

<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong><br />

the<br />

the<br />

outskirts of of <strong>Rome</strong> is is now now a a street street art<br />

art museum as as well as be<strong>in</strong>g home to to<br />

some 200 squatt<strong>in</strong>g squatters, migrants. many of The them<br />

Museo migrants. dell’Altro The Museo e dell’Altrove di e<br />

Metropoliz, dell’Altrove or di MAAM, Metropoliz, is only or MAAM, open<br />

on<br />

is<br />

Saturdays,<br />

only open<br />

and<br />

on<br />

features<br />

Saturdays,<br />

the work<br />

and<br />

features the work of more than 300<br />

of more than 300 artists <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />

artists <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Edoardo Kobra, Gio<br />

Edoardo<br />

Pistone, Sten&Lex<br />

Kobra,<br />

and<br />

Gio<br />

Diamond.<br />

Pistone,<br />

See<br />

Sten&Lex, MAAM Facebook Pablo Echaurren page for details. and<br />

Borondo. Via Prenest<strong>in</strong>a See MAAM 913. Facebook page<br />

for details. Via Prenest<strong>in</strong>a 913.<br />

Ostiense<br />

Fronte Del Del Porto Porto by by Blu. Blu. Via Via del Porto del<br />

Fluviale.<br />

Porto Fluviale.<br />

Fish’n'Kids by Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci. Via<br />

Fish’n’Kids by Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci. Via<br />

del Porto Fluviale.<br />

del Wall Porto of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei<br />

Wall Magazz<strong>in</strong>i of Fame Generali. by JB Rock. Via dei<br />

Magazz<strong>in</strong>i Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass,<br />

Shelley Via Ostiense. by Ozmo. Ostiense<br />

underpass, Palazzo occupato Via Ostiense. by Blu, Via Ostiense.<br />

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via<br />

Pigneto<br />

Ostiense.<br />

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasol<strong>in</strong>i by<br />

Pigneto<br />

Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Om<strong>in</strong>o 71.<br />

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasol<strong>in</strong>i by<br />

Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Om<strong>in</strong>o 71.<br />

Via<br />

Via<br />

Fanfulla<br />

Fanfulla<br />

da<br />

da<br />

Lodi.<br />

Lodi.<br />

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.<br />

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via<br />

Francesco Baracca.<br />

Prati<br />

Prati<br />

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù.<br />

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo<br />

Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via<br />

Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.<br />

Andrea Daniza the Doria. bear by Daniza ROA. Via the Sabot<strong>in</strong>o. bear by<br />

ROA. Via Sabot<strong>in</strong>o.<br />

Primavalle<br />

The Roadkill by F<strong>in</strong>tan Magee. Via<br />

Cristoforo<br />

Cristoforo Numai.<br />

Numai.<br />

Theseus stabb<strong>in</strong>g the M<strong>in</strong>otaur by<br />

Theseus stabb<strong>in</strong>g the M<strong>in</strong>otaur by<br />

Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.<br />

Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.<br />

Quadraro<br />

Tunnel murals by by Mr Mr THOMS and and Gio<br />

Gio Pistone. Pistone. Via Decio Via Decio Mure. Mure.<br />

Nido<br />

Nido di<br />

di<br />

Vespe<br />

Vespe<br />

by<br />

by<br />

Lucamaleonte.<br />

Lucamaleonte.<br />

Via<br />

Via<br />

del<br />

Monte del Grano.<br />

del Monte del Grano.<br />

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei<br />

Baby Pisoni Hulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei<br />

Pisoni 89.<br />

Rebibbia<br />

Murals by Blu. Via Via Ciciliano and Via<br />

Palomb<strong>in</strong>i (Casal dè dè Pazzi). Pazzi).<br />

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.<br />

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.<br />

Metro B station.<br />

Metro B station.<br />

S. S. Basilio<br />

SanBa features large-scale works on<br />

the façades of social-hous<strong>in</strong>g blocks <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong> the the disadvantaged disadvantaged north-east north-east suburb of<br />

S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration<br />

project <strong>in</strong>cludes works by Italian<br />

suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia.<br />

The<br />

artists<br />

regeneration<br />

Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci,<br />

project<br />

Hitnes<br />

<strong>in</strong>cludes<br />

and Blu<br />

works alongside by Spa<strong>in</strong>'s Italian Liqen. artists Via Agost<strong>in</strong>o Maiolati,<br />

Iacurci, Via Osimo, Hitnes Via Recanati, and Blu Via alongside Arcevia,<br />

Spa<strong>in</strong>’s Via Treia. Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via<br />

Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia,<br />

S. Giovanni<br />

Via Treia.<br />

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via<br />

S. Giovanni<br />

Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.<br />

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via<br />

Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.<br />

It’s<br />

It’s a<br />

New<br />

New<br />

Day<br />

Day<br />

by<br />

by<br />

Alice<br />

Alice<br />

Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i.<br />

Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i.<br />

Via<br />

Anton Via Anton Ludovico. Ludovico.<br />

S. Lorenzo<br />

S. Alice Lorenzo Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i. Via dei Sabelli.<br />

Alice Fem<strong>in</strong>icide Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i. Via mural dei Sabelli. by Elisa<br />

Fem<strong>in</strong>icide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.<br />

Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.<br />

Via Dei Sardi.<br />

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.<br />

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.<br />

Mural by by Agost<strong>in</strong>o Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci Iacurci on the on<br />

Istituto the Istituto Superiore Superiore di Vittorio di Lattanzio, Vittorio<br />

Via Lattanzio, Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia.<br />

S. Pietro<br />

S.<br />

Uma<br />

Pietro<br />

Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione<br />

Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S.<br />

di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del<br />

Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.<br />

Gallo.<br />

Testaccio<br />

Hunted Wolf by by ROA. Via Via Galvani.<br />

#K<strong>in</strong>dComments by by Alice Alice Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i, Pasqu<strong>in</strong>i, Via<br />

Volta,<br />

Via Volta,<br />

Testaccio<br />

Testaccio<br />

market.<br />

market.<br />

Tor Pignattara<br />

Tor Pignattara<br />

Dulk. Dulk. Via Via Antonio Antonio Tempesta. Tempesta.<br />

Etnik. Via Via Bartolomeo Perestrello Perestrello 51.<br />

Coffee 51. Coffee Break by Break Etam by Cru. Etam Via Ludovico Cru. Via<br />

Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni.<br />

Tom Tom Sawyer Sawyer by Jef by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Via<br />

Serbelloni.<br />

Gabrio Serbelloni.<br />

Pasol<strong>in</strong>i by Diavù. Former C<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

Impero,<br />

Pasol<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Via<br />

by<br />

Acqua<br />

Diavù.<br />

Bullicante.<br />

Former C<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

Hostia Impero, by Via Nicola Acqua Verlato. Bullicante. Via Galeazzo<br />

Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via<br />

Herakut. Galeazzo Via Alessi. Capua 14.<br />

Agost<strong>in</strong>o Herakut. Iacurci. Via Capua Via Muzio 14. Oddi 6.<br />

Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.<br />

Tor Marancia<br />

The<br />

Tor<br />

Big<br />

Marancia<br />

City Life scheme features 14-m<br />

tall The murals Big City by 22 Life Italian scheme and features <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

14-m tall street murals artists by 22 <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Italian and Mr<br />

Klevra, <strong>in</strong>ternational Seth, Gaia street and artists Jerico. <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g The idea<br />

was Mr Klevra, to transform Seth, the Gaia area's and blocks Jerico. of<br />

flats <strong>in</strong>to an open-air art museum. Via<br />

The idea was to transform the area’s<br />

Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.<br />

blocks of flats <strong>in</strong>to an open-air art<br />

museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full<br />

details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.<br />

20 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Dev<strong>in</strong>ir by Liqen,<br />

Fish'n'Kids by Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.<br />

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Dev<strong>in</strong>ir by Liqen,<br />

Fish'n'Kids by Agost<strong>in</strong>o Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 21






Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.<br />

Not only the Sist<strong>in</strong>e Chapel but also the Egyptian and<br />

Etruscan collections and the P<strong>in</strong>acoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.<br />

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free<br />

entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours<br />

of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For<br />

private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26<br />

December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.<br />

Advance book<strong>in</strong>g onl<strong>in</strong>e: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.<br />

Patrons of the Arts <strong>in</strong> the Vatican Museums<br />

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private<br />

beh<strong>in</strong>d-the-scenes tours <strong>in</strong> the Vatican Museums.<br />


Baths of Diocletian<br />

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it.<br />

Part of the protohistorical section of the<br />

Museo Nazionale Romano <strong>in</strong> the Baths of Diocletian plus the<br />

restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.<br />

Borghese Museum<br />

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101,<br />

www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bern<strong>in</strong>i and Canova,<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.<br />

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00<br />

15.00, 17.00. Guided tours <strong>in</strong> English and Italian.<br />

Castel S. Angelo Museum<br />

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com.<br />

Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes<br />

as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.<br />

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palat<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palat<strong>in</strong>e: entrances at Piazza<br />

di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.<br />

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and<br />

Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it.<br />

08.30-19.15. S<strong>in</strong>gle ticket gives entry to the<br />

Colosseum and the Palat<strong>in</strong>e (<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Museo Palat<strong>in</strong>o;<br />

last entry one hour before clos<strong>in</strong>g). Guided tours <strong>in</strong> English<br />

and Italian.<br />

Crypta Balbi<br />

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it.<br />

Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages<br />

on the site of the ancient ru<strong>in</strong>s of the Roman Theatre of<br />

Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours <strong>in</strong> Italian.<br />

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia<br />

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it.<br />

National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30-<br />

19.30. Mon closed.<br />

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna<br />

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's<br />

modern art collection. Mon closed.<br />

MAXXI<br />

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.<br />

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.<br />

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.<br />

Palazzo Cors<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barber<strong>in</strong>icors<strong>in</strong>i.org.<br />

National collection of ancient art, begun by <strong>Rome</strong>’s<br />

Cors<strong>in</strong>i family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.<br />

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale<br />

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14<br />

(EUR). For details see website, www.pigor<strong>in</strong>i.beniculturali.it.<br />

Palazzo Altemps<br />

Piazza S. Apoll<strong>in</strong>are 46, tel. 0639967700,<br />

www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the<br />

Museo Nazionale Romano, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Ludovisi collection.<br />

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.<br />

Palazzo Barber<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barber<strong>in</strong>icors<strong>in</strong>i.org.<br />

National collection of 13th- to 16th-century<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.<br />

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme<br />

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it.<br />

Important Roman pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, mosaics, sculpture,<br />

co<strong>in</strong>s and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.<br />

22 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Villa Farnes<strong>in</strong>a<br />

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnes<strong>in</strong>a.it. A<br />

16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by<br />

Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 exclud<strong>in</strong>g holidays.<br />


Centrale Montemart<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemart<strong>in</strong>i.org.<br />

Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitol<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Museums are on show <strong>in</strong> a former power plant.<br />

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours <strong>in</strong> English for groups if<br />

reserved <strong>in</strong> advance.<br />

Capitol<strong>in</strong>e Museums<br />

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitol<strong>in</strong>i.org.<br />

The city’s collection of ancient sculpture <strong>in</strong> Palazzo<br />

Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and<br />

the P<strong>in</strong>acoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for<br />

groups <strong>in</strong> English and Italian on Sat and Sun.<br />

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna<br />

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.musei<strong>in</strong>comuneroma.it.<br />

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.<br />

MACRO Asilo<br />

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of<br />

free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end<br />

of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.<br />


Piazza Orazio Giust<strong>in</strong>iani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.<br />

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.<br />

Museo Barracco<br />

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A<br />

collection of ma<strong>in</strong>ly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.<br />

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi<br />

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s<br />

collection of pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, etch<strong>in</strong>gs, photographs, furniture and<br />

clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.<br />

Mon closed. Guided tours <strong>in</strong> English and Italian on prior<br />

book<strong>in</strong>g tel. 0682059127.<br />

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets<br />

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum<br />

dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and<br />

the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.<br />

Museo Canonica<br />

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it.<br />

The collection, private apartment and studio of the<br />

sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died <strong>in</strong> 1959.<br />

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours <strong>in</strong> Italian and English<br />

(book ten days <strong>in</strong> advance).<br />

Museo Napoleonico<br />

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it.<br />

Pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon<br />

and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.<br />

Guided tours <strong>in</strong> Italian and English.<br />


Casa di Goethe<br />

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.<br />

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-<br />

18.00. Mon closed.<br />

Chiostro Del Bramante<br />

Bramante’s Renaissance build<strong>in</strong>g near Piazza Navona stages<br />

exhibitions by important Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists.<br />

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035<br />

www.chiostrodelbramante.it.<br />

Doria Pamphilj Gallery<br />

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323,<br />

www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it<br />

conta<strong>in</strong>s the family’s private art collection, which <strong>in</strong>cludes a<br />

portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bern<strong>in</strong>i, plus works by<br />

Raphael, Titian, T<strong>in</strong>toretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.<br />

Galleria Colonna<br />

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.<br />

Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido<br />

Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00<br />

only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on<br />

request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange<br />

alternative entrance.<br />

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum<br />

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org.<br />

Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical pa<strong>in</strong>ter Giorgio<br />

de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.<br />

Guided tours <strong>in</strong> English, advance book<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Keats-Shelley House<br />

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it.<br />

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic<br />

poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.<br />

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.<br />

Guided tours on prior book<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Museo storico della Liberazione<br />

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.<br />

Housed <strong>in</strong> the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum<br />

were tortured here dur<strong>in</strong>g the Nazi occupation of <strong>Rome</strong> from<br />

1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.<br />

Palazzo Merulana<br />

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.<br />

Museum host<strong>in</strong>g the early 20th-century Italian art collection,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Scuola Romana pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, of the Cerasi Foundation.<br />

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 23










1/9 Unosunove<br />

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerg<strong>in</strong>g national and <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

contemporary artists and explores various media<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, sculpture and photography. Via degli<br />

Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.<br />

A.A.M. Architettura<br />

Arte Moderna Gallery hous<strong>in</strong>g numerous works of contemporary<br />

design, photography, draw<strong>in</strong>gs and architecture<br />

projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537,<br />

www.ff-maam.it.<br />

Contemporary Cluster<br />

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty<br />

apothecary <strong>in</strong> a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.<br />

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.<br />

C.R.E.T.A.<br />

Cultural association promot<strong>in</strong>g ceramics and the visual,<br />

humanistic, musical and cul<strong>in</strong>ary arts through workshops,<br />

exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delf<strong>in</strong>i, Via dei<br />

Delf<strong>in</strong>i 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.<br />

Dorothy Circus Gallery<br />

Prom<strong>in</strong>ent gallery specialis<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational pop-surrealist<br />

art. Via dei Pett<strong>in</strong>ari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.<br />

Ex Elettrofonica<br />

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes<br />

and supports the work of young <strong>in</strong>ternational artists. Vicolo S.<br />

Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.<br />

Fondazione Memmo<br />

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists<br />

for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.<br />

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.<br />

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere<br />

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes<br />

educational projects and residencies for young artists and<br />

curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures,<br />

workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.<br />

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.<br />

Fondazione Volume!<br />

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically<br />

for the gallery with the goal of fus<strong>in</strong>g art and landscape. Via<br />

di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.<br />

24 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />

Franz Paludetto<br />

Gallery <strong>in</strong> S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternational contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18,<br />

www.franzpaludetto.com.<br />

Frutta<br />

This contemporary art gallery supports <strong>in</strong>ternational and<br />

local artists <strong>in</strong> its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.<br />

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.<br />

Gagosian Gallery<br />

The <strong>Rome</strong> branch of this <strong>in</strong>ternational contemporary art<br />

gallery hosts some of the biggest names <strong>in</strong> modern art. Via<br />

Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.<br />

GALLA<br />

Exhibition space designed to showcase orig<strong>in</strong>al, unconventional<br />

art works at affordable prices by artists work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

various fields. Via degli Z<strong>in</strong>gari 28, tel. 3476552515,<br />

www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.<br />

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo<br />

Gallery show<strong>in</strong>g the works of important Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858,<br />

www.bonomogallery.com.<br />

Galleria Valent<strong>in</strong>a Bonomo<br />

Located <strong>in</strong> a former convent, this gallery hosts both <strong>in</strong>ternationally<br />

recognised and emerg<strong>in</strong>g artists who create works<br />

specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13,<br />

tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.<br />

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte<br />

Gallery promot<strong>in</strong>g pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, design and photography by<br />

emerg<strong>in</strong>g and established Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists.<br />

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.<br />

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill<br />

High-profile <strong>in</strong>ternational artists regularly exhibit at this<br />

gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Cat<strong>in</strong>ari 3, tel.<br />

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.<br />

Galleria della Tartaruga<br />

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian<br />

and foreign artists s<strong>in</strong>ce 1975. Via Sist<strong>in</strong>a 85/A, tel.<br />

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.<br />

Galleria Il Segno<br />

Prestigious gallery show<strong>in</strong>g work by major Italia and <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

artists s<strong>in</strong>ce 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387,<br />


<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 25

MAXXI<br />

amazes you,<br />

always art<br />

architecture<br />

design<br />

photography<br />

c<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

26 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Galleria Mucciaccia<br />

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promot<strong>in</strong>g established<br />

contemporary artists and emerg<strong>in</strong>g talents. Largo Fontanella<br />

Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.<br />

Galleria Russo<br />

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions<br />

showcas<strong>in</strong>g the work of major 20th-century Italian pa<strong>in</strong>ters<br />

alongside promis<strong>in</strong>g new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.<br />

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.<br />

Galleria Varsi<br />

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable<br />

of street artists. Via di Grotta P<strong>in</strong>ta 38, tel. 066865415,<br />

www.galleriavarsi.it.<br />

Gav<strong>in</strong> Brown's Enterprise<br />

New York gallerist Gav<strong>in</strong> Brown shows the work of <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

artists at his Trastevere gallery <strong>in</strong> a deconsecrated church<br />

dat<strong>in</strong>g to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei<br />

Vascellari 69, www.gav<strong>in</strong>brown.biz.<br />

Il Ponte Contemporanea<br />

Hosts exhibitions represent<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>in</strong>ternational scene and<br />

contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe<br />

Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.<br />

La Nuova Pesa<br />

Well-established gallery show<strong>in</strong>g work by prom<strong>in</strong>ent Italian<br />

artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.<br />

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea<br />

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prom<strong>in</strong>ent Italian artists.<br />

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.<br />

Magazz<strong>in</strong>o d’Arte Moderna<br />

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and<br />

emerg<strong>in</strong>g artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazz<strong>in</strong>oartemoderna.com.<br />

Monitor<br />

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for<br />

a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesar<strong>in</strong>i, Via Sforza<br />

Cesar<strong>in</strong>i 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronl<strong>in</strong>e.org.<br />

Nero Gallery<br />

Space dedicated to showcas<strong>in</strong>g young <strong>in</strong>ternational artists<br />

work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art<br />

and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418,<br />

www.nerogallery.com.<br />

Nomas Foundation<br />

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research <strong>in</strong> art<br />

and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.<br />

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.<br />

Operativa Arte Contemporanea<br />

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del<br />

Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.<br />

Pian de Giullari<br />

Art studio-gallery <strong>in</strong> the house of Carl<strong>in</strong>a and Andrea Bottai<br />

show<strong>in</strong>g works by contemporary artists from <strong>Rome</strong>, Naples<br />

and Florence capable of transmitt<strong>in</strong>g empathy and emotions.<br />

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603,<br />

www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.<br />

Plus Arte Puls<br />

Cultural association and gallery show<strong>in</strong>g work by important<br />

contemporary Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists. Viale Mazz<strong>in</strong>i 1,<br />

tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.<br />

RvB ARTS<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>-based gallery specialis<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> affordable contemporary<br />

art by young, emerg<strong>in</strong>g Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28,<br />

tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.<br />

Sala 1<br />

This <strong>in</strong>ternationally known non-profit contemporary art<br />

gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary<br />

art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di<br />

Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.<br />

S.T. Foto libreria galleria<br />

Gallery <strong>in</strong> Borgo Pio represent<strong>in</strong>g a diverse range of contemporary<br />

art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.<br />

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.<br />

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri<br />

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

contemporary artists particularly m<strong>in</strong>imalist, postmodern<br />

and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, <strong>in</strong>t. 7/A, tel. 0677591122,<br />

www.galleriasales.it.<br />

T293<br />

The <strong>Rome</strong> branch of this contemporary art gallery presents<br />

national and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists and hosts multiple solo<br />

exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475,<br />

www.t293.it.<br />

The Gallery Apart<br />

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists <strong>in</strong> their<br />

research and assists them <strong>in</strong> their projects to help them<br />

emerge <strong>in</strong>to the <strong>in</strong>ternational art world. Via Francesco Negri<br />

43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.<br />

TraleVolte<br />

Contemporary art gallery focus<strong>in</strong>g on the relationship<br />

between art and architecture, host<strong>in</strong>g solo and group shows<br />

of Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni<br />

10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.<br />

White Noise Gallery<br />

Based <strong>in</strong> the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional<br />

work by young Italian and <strong>in</strong>ternational artists. Via<br />

della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.<br />

Wunderkammern<br />

This gallery promotes <strong>in</strong>novative research of contemporary<br />

art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.<br />

Z20 Galleria Sara Zan<strong>in</strong><br />

Started by art historian Sara Zan<strong>in</strong>, Z2o Galleria offers a range<br />

of <strong>in</strong>novative national and <strong>in</strong>ternational contemporary artists.<br />

Via della Vetr<strong>in</strong>a 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 27

where to go <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />

WHAT’S ON<br />

Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna dedicates an exhibition to Antonietta Raphaël, <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> see <strong>Rome</strong> page • 30. December <strong>2021</strong> | 29


From 6 December museums<br />

and archaeological sites <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Rome</strong> are open only to visitors<br />

who show proof that they have<br />

been vacc<strong>in</strong>ated or recovered<br />

<strong>in</strong> the last six months from<br />

covid-19, under Italy's new socalled<br />

Super Green Pass system.<br />

Access will no longer be given<br />

to those who provide a negative<br />

covid test alone (as per the<br />

“basic” Green Pass system which<br />

changes after 5 December).<br />

Most venues require advance<br />

book<strong>in</strong>g and the wear<strong>in</strong>g of<br />

masks is obligatory. Weekend<br />

visits to the more popular sites<br />

such as the Colosseum and<br />

the Pantheon must be booked<br />

at least one day ahead. For<br />

visit<strong>in</strong>g details check websites<br />

<strong>in</strong> advance.<br />

100 PRESEPI<br />

5 <strong>DEC</strong>-9 JAN<br />

This year’s edition of 100 Presepi,<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>’s <strong>in</strong>ternational Nativity crib<br />

exhibition, takes place under the<br />

colonnade of St Peter’s Square. A<br />

firm fixture on <strong>Rome</strong>’s Christmas<br />

calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts<br />

some Nativity scenes from across<br />

Italy and dozens of other countries.<br />

In addition to contemporary<br />

replicas of traditional 18th-century<br />

Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and<br />

100 Presepi at St Peter's Square.<br />

Caravaggio and Artemisia exhibition at Palazzo Barber<strong>in</strong>i.<br />

19th-century Roman mangers, there<br />

are modern versions made from<br />

wood, papier-mâché and terracotta,<br />

as well as unconventional materials<br />

such as sand, rice and metal. Now<br />

<strong>in</strong> its 46th year, 100 Presepi was<br />

established <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1976 and<br />

took place <strong>in</strong> Piazza del Popolo until<br />

four years ago. Today it is organised<br />

by the Vatican’s Pontifical Council<br />

for the Promotion of the New<br />

Evangelisation. For visit<strong>in</strong>g details<br />

see website, www.100presepi.it.<br />


26 NOV-27 MARCH<br />

Caravaggio and Artemisia: Judith’s<br />

challenge. Violence and seduction <strong>in</strong><br />

pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g between the 16th and 17th<br />

centuries is the title of a new exhibition<br />

at Palazzo Barber<strong>in</strong>i. The show<br />

takes as it start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t Judith who<br />

decapitates Holofernes <strong>in</strong> Caravaggio’s<br />

masterpiece which was rediscovered<br />

70 years ago before be<strong>in</strong>g acquired<br />

by the Italian state. Evaluat<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

impact the powerful pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g has had<br />

on the art world over the centuries,<br />

the exhibition comprises 31 works,<br />

mostly large format, from important<br />

national and <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>in</strong>stitutions,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Prado and the Thyssen<br />

Museum <strong>in</strong> Madrid, the Capodimonte<br />

Museum <strong>in</strong> Naples and <strong>Rome</strong>’s the<br />

Borghese Gallery <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>. The show<br />

is curated by Maria Crist<strong>in</strong>a Terzaghi<br />

and features works by artists <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi,<br />

Valent<strong>in</strong> de Boulogne, Pietro Novelli,<br />

Mattia Preti and Giuseppe Vermiglio.<br />

Palazzo Barber<strong>in</strong>i, Via delle Quattro<br />

Fontane 13, www.barber<strong>in</strong>icors<strong>in</strong>i.org.<br />


17 NOV-30 JAN<br />

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte<br />

Moderna (GNAM) presents Through the<br />

Look<strong>in</strong>g Glass, an exhibition dedicated<br />

to Antonietta Raphaël (Kaunas 1895<br />

– <strong>Rome</strong> 1975), the Lithuanian- born<br />

artist who was a lead<strong>in</strong>g exponent of<br />

the Scuola Romana movement. The<br />

show comprises pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, sculptures<br />

and works on paper, accompanied by<br />

documents, family photographs, letters<br />

30 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

and pages from her diaries. Also on<br />

display is a selection of works by artist<br />

Mario Mafai – her lifelong partner –<br />

along with a specially created video<br />

documentary. The gallery says the<br />

exhibition’s title alludes to Raphaël’s<br />

“ability to transform artistic practice<br />

<strong>in</strong>to a tool for <strong>in</strong>vestigat<strong>in</strong>g her own<br />

<strong>in</strong>ner world and evokes dreamlike<br />

and imag<strong>in</strong>ative dimensions <strong>in</strong><br />

which the female figure is the ma<strong>in</strong><br />

protagonist.” Curated by Giorgia Calò<br />

and Alessandra Troncone, the show<br />

is held <strong>in</strong> collaboration with the<br />

Lithuanian Institute of Culture and<br />

the embassy of Lithuania <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>.<br />

GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131,<br />

www.lagallerianazionale.com.<br />


L’ITALIA<br />

27 OCT-27 MARCH<br />

Palazzo Braschi presents an<br />

exhibition of pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by Gustav<br />

Klimt, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Portrait of a Lady,<br />

which went miss<strong>in</strong>g for almost 23<br />

years after its theft from a gallery <strong>in</strong><br />

Piacenza. The pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g was stolen<br />

<strong>in</strong> 1997 before be<strong>in</strong>g rediscovered <strong>in</strong><br />

the gallery’s garden, <strong>in</strong> mysterious<br />

circumstances, <strong>in</strong> 2019. The works<br />

on show feature some of the<br />

Austrian artist’s masterpieces from<br />

the Belvedere Museum <strong>in</strong> Vienna,<br />

the Klimt Foundation and public<br />

and private collections such as<br />

the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights<br />

among the pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, sculptures<br />

and draw<strong>in</strong>gs on display <strong>in</strong>clude<br />

Judith I, Lady <strong>in</strong> White, Friends I (The<br />

Klimt exhibition at Palazzo Braschi.<br />

Sebastião-Salgado at MAXXI. Indiana Yawanawá, Stato di Acre, Brasile<br />

2016.©-Sebastião Salgado Contrasto.<br />

Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The<br />

Bride. The exhibition focuses on the<br />

artist’s relationship with Italy and<br />

the <strong>in</strong>fluence he had on other artists<br />

work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the country. Museo di<br />

Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608,<br />

www.museodiroma.it.<br />


15 OCT-9 JAN<br />

The Scuderie del Quir<strong>in</strong>ale marks<br />

the 700th anniversary of the death<br />

of Dante Alighieri with an exhibition<br />

based on the first book of The Div<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Comedy. The show comprises more<br />

than 200 artworks on loan from<br />

80 museums, public collections and<br />

private collections from Italy, the<br />

Vatican and across Europe. Inferno<br />

documents hell-related iconography<br />

from the Middle Ages to the present<br />

day, <strong>in</strong> what is hailed as the first major<br />

art exhibition dedicated to this theme.<br />

Curated by Jean Clair, the show takes<br />

visitors on a journey <strong>in</strong>to the depths<br />

of hell, as imag<strong>in</strong>ed by artists through<br />

the centuries, accompanied by the<br />

words of Dante. These visions range<br />

from the tormented and nightmarish<br />

to the romanticised, from Mediaeval<br />

to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic<br />

<strong>in</strong>terpretations from the 20th century.<br />

See review on page 3. Scuderie del<br />

Quir<strong>in</strong>ale, Via XXIV Maggio 16,<br />

www.scuderiequir<strong>in</strong>ale.it.<br />


1 OCT-13 FEB<br />

Photojournalist Sebastião Salgado<br />

provides a black and white<br />

photographic journey through the<br />

Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six<br />

years captur<strong>in</strong>g images of the forest,<br />

the rivers, the mounta<strong>in</strong>s and the<br />

people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s<br />

national museum of 21st-century arts,<br />

presents Salgado’s 200 photographs<br />

aga<strong>in</strong>st a soundscape of sounds -<br />

recorded <strong>in</strong> the forests and created<br />

by Jean-Michel Jarre – feaur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

rustl<strong>in</strong>g of trees, birdsong, the shrieks<br />

of animals, and the roar of waterfalls.<br />

The exhibition highlights the fragility<br />

of this ecosystem, show<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>in</strong> the<br />

protected areas where the <strong>in</strong>digenous<br />

communities live the forest has<br />

suffered almost no damage. MAXXI,<br />

Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.<br />



5 MAY-9 JAN<br />

Chiostro del Bramante presents<br />

ALL about BANKSY, an exhibition<br />

dedicated to the anonymous<br />

British street artist whose satirical<br />

murals are celebrated around the<br />

world. The show, which follows<br />

an earlier Banksy exhibition,<br />

features about 250 artworks<br />

from private collections. Chiostro<br />

del Bramante, Via Arco della<br />

Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.<br />

chiostrodelbramante.it.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 31

ART NEWS<br />

Tear Along the Dotted L<strong>in</strong>e by Zerocalcare.<br />


Netflix is celebrat<strong>in</strong>g its gamble on <strong>Rome</strong> cartoonist<br />

Michele Rech, better known as Zerocalcare, whose new<br />

animated m<strong>in</strong>i-series has become Italy’s most watched<br />

show on the stream<strong>in</strong>g platform. The series Tear Along<br />

the Dotted L<strong>in</strong>e (Strappare lungo i bordi <strong>in</strong> Italian) was<br />

launched <strong>in</strong> mid-November <strong>in</strong> 190 countries around<br />

the world, <strong>in</strong> various languages <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g English.<br />

Netflix describes the six-part series as “offbeat,<br />

irreverent”, and <strong>in</strong>troduces it like this: “A cartoonist <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Rome</strong> with his armadillo-for-a-conscience reflects on his<br />

path <strong>in</strong> life and a would-be love as he and his friends<br />

travel outside the city.” The episodes, which each last<br />

about 15 m<strong>in</strong>utes, feature anecdotes, reflections and<br />

flashbacks by Zerocalcare who credited Netflix with<br />

giv<strong>in</strong>g him “absolute freedom” <strong>in</strong> the project. “A few<br />

years ago I had the desire to try to tell a story not <strong>in</strong><br />

comics but <strong>in</strong> cartoons” – Zerocalacare said after the<br />

premiere at the recent <strong>Rome</strong> Film Fest – “because it is<br />

a more direct, more accessible language.”<br />

In addition to writ<strong>in</strong>g and direct<strong>in</strong>g, Zerocalcare<br />

narrated the animated series <strong>in</strong> his Roman dialect.<br />

The l<strong>in</strong>guistics have caused problems for some<br />

Italians outside <strong>Rome</strong>, amid claims the show verges<br />

on <strong>in</strong>comprehensible at times, lead<strong>in</strong>g to much debate<br />

on social media. Zerocalcare, from the Rebibbia<br />

suburb, is not perturbed by the controversy. “For me,<br />

Romanesco is the language of the comfort zone”, he<br />

said at the show’s premiere. “I speak more Romanesco<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>terviews than with my mother” – he noted – “not<br />

because I have to flaunt it but because it’s a question of<br />

my identity, it makes me feel entrenched <strong>in</strong> my fort.”<br />


<strong>Rome</strong> celebrates the 150th anniversary of the birth of<br />

the Italian pa<strong>in</strong>ter and Futurist master Giacomo Balla<br />

by open<strong>in</strong>g his former home to the public for the first<br />

time, after be<strong>in</strong>g closed up for 30 years. Casa Balla, the<br />

pa<strong>in</strong>ter’s kaleidoscopic vision of art and colour on Via<br />

Oslavia, opened <strong>in</strong> June with visits scheduled to end <strong>in</strong><br />

December. However due to popular demand and sellout<br />

tours, it has been decided that Casa Balla is to stay<br />

open to the public throughout 2022.<br />

Born <strong>in</strong> Tur<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1871, Balla lived and worked <strong>in</strong> his<br />

extraord<strong>in</strong>ary Roman home from 1929 until his death<br />

<strong>in</strong> 1958. His daughters Luce and Elica, also pa<strong>in</strong>ters,<br />

stayed liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the house until the 1990s. The open<strong>in</strong>g<br />

of Casa Balla is thanks to a collaboration between<br />

MAXXI, the National Museum of 21st-Century Arts,<br />

and <strong>Rome</strong>’s special super<strong>in</strong>tendence of Archaeology,<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e Arts and Landscape, with the support of the<br />

Italian culture m<strong>in</strong>istry and the Bank of Italy.<br />

Bartolomeo Pietromarchi, MAXXI art director and<br />

curator of the project expla<strong>in</strong>s: “The house with<br />

its decorations, furniture, works of art expresses the<br />

artist’s personality <strong>in</strong> all its forms and represents one<br />

of his greatest masterpieces.” Reservations are required<br />

and can be made via MAXXI website, www.maxxi.it.<br />

See also Inferno review page 3.<br />

Casa Balla, former home of Giacomo Balla, on Via Oslavia 39/B.<br />


The Keat-Shelley House presents a video story called<br />

Shelley <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>, directed by Giulio Boato and produced by<br />

313 films. The film, premiered on 1 December, provides a<br />

“psychogeographical take” on Percy Bysshe Shelley’s time<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>, explor<strong>in</strong>g the poet’s relationship with the city<br />

and Roman locations that <strong>in</strong>spired his poetry. The video<br />

offers “evocative visuals and three-dimensional audio” and<br />

the narration of the story revolves around Shelley’s three<br />

masterpieces <strong>in</strong>spired by his time <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>: Prometheus<br />

Unbound, The Cenci and Adonais, his elegy on the death<br />

of his friend John Keats. For details see the Keats-Shelley<br />

website, www.ksh.roma.it.<br />

Andy Devane<br />

32 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

OPERA<br />

MILAN<br />



7-29 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Verdi’s Macbeth conducted by<br />

Riccardo Chailly opens La Scala’s<br />

new season. The new production<br />

for Milan’s opera house is by<br />

director Davide Livermore. Anna<br />

Netrebko s<strong>in</strong>gs Lady Macbeth,<br />

Luca Salsi Macbeth, Francesco Meli<br />

Macduff and Ildar Abdrazakov<br />

as Banquo. Teatro alla Scala,<br />

Via Filodrammatici 2, www.<br />

teatroallascala.org.<br />



18 JAN-2 FEB<br />

Evel<strong>in</strong> Pidò conducts a new<br />

production of Bell<strong>in</strong>i’s version of<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>o and Juliet, directed by Adrian<br />

Noble, who was the head of the Royal<br />

Shakespeare Company until 2003.<br />

This is Noble’s debut at La Scala.<br />

Marianne Crebassa s<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>Rome</strong>o<br />

and Lisette Oropesa Giulietta. Bell<strong>in</strong>i<br />

composed the opera <strong>in</strong> 1830 for the<br />

Venice Carnival and given that he<br />

had little over a month to deliver the<br />

composition he used material from<br />

Zaira, his fifth opera which had been<br />

a flop <strong>in</strong> Parma the previous year.<br />

I Capuletti e i Montecchi became<br />

an immediate success and made<br />

Bell<strong>in</strong>i’s reputation. Teatro alla<br />

Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.<br />

teatroallascala.org.<br />

ROME<br />


3-7 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

A new opera with music by<br />

Giovanni Solima and the libretto<br />

by Giancarlo De Cataldo. The<br />

opera, about the pollution of the<br />

sea, is dedicated to young children<br />

and has been commissioned by the<br />

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and<br />

the Teatro Sociale di Como as part<br />

of the Progetto Opera Domani.<br />

Conducted by Carlo Donadio and<br />

directed by Luis Ernesto Donas.<br />

Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli, www.<br />

operaroma.it.<br />

TOSCA<br />


4-12 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Alessandro Talevi’s production<br />

of Tosca returns to the <strong>Rome</strong><br />

Opera House, conducted by Paolo<br />

Arrivabeni, with Saioa Hernandez<br />

as Tosca, Vittorio Grigolo as<br />

Cavaradossi, Roberto Frontali<br />

as Scarpia. Teatro dell’Opera di<br />

Roma, Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli,<br />

www.operaroma.it.<br />



18-27 JAN<br />

This is the first time that Janacek’s<br />

opera has been performed at<br />

Teatro Costanzi, <strong>in</strong> a co-production<br />

with the Royal Opera House. It is<br />

conducted by David Robertson and<br />

directed by Richard Jones who has<br />

directed five Royal Opera House<br />

productions and is considered<br />

one of the best British opera and<br />

theatre directors. The opera will<br />

be sung <strong>in</strong> Czech with Italian<br />

and English surtitles. It tells the<br />

story of a woman liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a small<br />

bigoted community. She is trapped<br />

<strong>in</strong> a loveless marriage, bullied by<br />

her mother-<strong>in</strong>-law and spied on by<br />

her neighbours, as she searches for<br />

someth<strong>in</strong>g better. Teatro dell’Opera<br />

di Roma, Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli,<br />

www.operaroma.it.<br />

Janacek's Katya Kabanova, performed at the Royal Opera House <strong>in</strong> 2019, debuts at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma <strong>in</strong> January.<br />

34 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Classical<br />

Lang Lang is back tour<strong>in</strong>g after his tendonitis <strong>in</strong> 2017.<br />


ROMANA<br />


4 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Daniele Gatti conducts the Orchestra<br />

Mozart for the Accademia’s 200th<br />

anniversary concert. Music by<br />

Ross<strong>in</strong>i, Strav<strong>in</strong>sky, Aperchis<br />

(premiere commissioned by the<br />

Filarmonica) and Mozart. Ross<strong>in</strong>i<br />

was an honorary member of the<br />

fledgl<strong>in</strong>g academy and Strav<strong>in</strong>sky<br />

taught at the Filarmonica. Teatro<br />

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano<br />

17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.<br />


8 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

The Accademia S. Cecilia and the<br />

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma jo<strong>in</strong><br />

with the Accademia Filarmonica<br />

Romana to mark its 200th<br />

anniversary. Music by Ross<strong>in</strong>i.<br />

Sgambati, Casella, Mendelssohn,<br />

Schubert and Stranv<strong>in</strong>sky. Teatro<br />

Argent<strong>in</strong>a, Largo Argent<strong>in</strong>a, www.<br />

filarmonicaromana.org.<br />



10 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Lang Lang is back tour<strong>in</strong>g<br />

after his tendonitis <strong>in</strong> 2017.<br />

Cultural and social change, from<br />

Americanisation to <strong>in</strong>dustrialisation.<br />

Sala Casella, Via Flam<strong>in</strong>ia 18. www.<br />

filarmonicaromana.org.<br />


16 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Pianist Pietro de Maria plays music<br />

by Beethoven, Sgambati and Liszt.<br />

Teatro Argent<strong>in</strong>a, Largo Argent<strong>in</strong>a,<br />

www.filarmonicaromana.org.<br />



19 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

The Assoli series of concerts are<br />

dedicated to contemporary music.<br />

This season the open<strong>in</strong>g concert of<br />

the series is dedicated to music by<br />

Fabio Vacchi, performed by pianist<br />

Francesco Granata. Other concerts<br />

<strong>in</strong> the series will be on 28 Jan, 25<br />

Feb, 1 April, 8 April, 20 May. Sala<br />

Casella, Via Flam<strong>in</strong>ia 18. www.<br />

filarmonicaromana.org.<br />



6 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Lang Lang will play music by<br />

Schumman and Bach’s Goldberg<br />

Variations. The star pianist had<br />

severe tendonitis <strong>in</strong> 2017 and had<br />

to take a break from his heavy<br />

schedule of concerts. He is back<br />

with performances <strong>in</strong> Jan, March<br />

and April <strong>in</strong> Europe and the USA.<br />

His record<strong>in</strong>g of the Goldberg<br />

Variations <strong>in</strong> 2020 did not get a<br />

good review <strong>in</strong> The Guardian: “There<br />

are flashes of perfectly weighted,<br />

stylistically appropriate play<strong>in</strong>g, but<br />

too much of Lang’s performances<br />

seems to squeeze all the energy<br />

out of the music, with tempi that<br />

are ach<strong>in</strong>gly slow and phras<strong>in</strong>g that<br />

is so mannered it sometimes seems<br />

more appropriate for Rachman<strong>in</strong>ov<br />

than Bach.” Auditorium Parco della<br />

Musica, Via P de Coubert<strong>in</strong> 36,<br />

www.santacecilia.it.<br />

36 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>



10 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Marcus Stenz conducts the S.<br />

Cecilia Orchestra and pianist Andrei<br />

Korobe<strong>in</strong>ikov perform<strong>in</strong>g music by<br />

Debussy, Rachman<strong>in</strong>ov, Busoni and<br />

Scriab<strong>in</strong>. Auditorium Parco della<br />

Musica, Via P. de Coubert<strong>in</strong> 36,<br />

www.santacecilia.it.<br />


16-18 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

This series of concerts performs<br />

Tchaikovsky’s Snow Maiden,<br />

conducted by Stanislav Kochanovsky,<br />

with the mezzosoprano Agunda<br />

Kulaeva, tenor Alexander Mikhailov<br />

and narrator Milena Vukotic.<br />

Auditorium Parco della Musica,<br />

Via P. de Coubert<strong>in</strong> 36, www.<br />

santacecilia.it.<br />

CARUSO 100<br />

22 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

To celebrate the 100th anniversary<br />

of the great tenor’s death <strong>in</strong> Naples.<br />

Music by Donizetti, Gounod, Bizet,<br />

Verdi, Pucc<strong>in</strong>i, Leoncavallo, sung<br />

by the tenor Javier Camarena.<br />

Auditorium Parco della Musica,<br />

Via P. de Coubert<strong>in</strong> 36, www.<br />

santacecilia.it.<br />





4 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Valent<strong>in</strong>a Lisitsa, who is among<br />

the best known pianists to perform<br />

on YouTube (aka as the Queen of<br />

Rachman<strong>in</strong>off), debuts <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />

with a programme of music by<br />

Rachman<strong>in</strong>off and Chop<strong>in</strong>. She has<br />

recently also performed <strong>in</strong> Palermo.<br />

Aula Magna Sapienza, Piazziale<br />

Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.<br />


14 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Steven Isserlis viol<strong>in</strong> and pianist<br />

Connie Shih mark the 100th<br />

anniversary of the composer’s<br />

death with two of his viol<strong>in</strong> and<br />

piano concertos, as well as music<br />

by his contemporaries. Aula Magna<br />

Sapienza, Piazziale Aldo Moro,<br />

www.concertiiuc.it.<br />


18 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

Cellist Zlatomir Fung debuts at<br />

the IUC with Richard Fu piano,<br />

perform<strong>in</strong>g music by David<br />

Popper, Schubert, Salonen Knock<br />

and Schostakovich. Fung won the<br />

Tchaikovsky Prize <strong>in</strong> 2019. Aula<br />

Magna Sapienza, Piazziale Aldo<br />

Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.<br />

Valent<strong>in</strong>a Lisitsa is sometimes known as the Queen of Rachman<strong>in</strong>off because of her YouTube success.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 37

DANCE<br />

Giuliano Pepar<strong>in</strong>i's sumptuous adaptation of The Nutcracker at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.<br />

MILAN<br />



15 <strong>DEC</strong>-8 JAN<br />

This ballet, which Nureyev made his<br />

own, opens the new season at La<br />

Scala, with new sets and costumes<br />

by Luisa Sp<strong>in</strong>atelli. It is a return<br />

to purity of classical ballet with the<br />

whole of La Scala Ballet Company<br />

on stage and the participation of<br />

some of the ballet school’s students.<br />

Kev<strong>in</strong> Rhodes is conduct<strong>in</strong>g. Teatro<br />

alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2,<br />

www.teatroallascala.org.<br />

ROME<br />



19 <strong>DEC</strong>-2 JAN<br />

This is Guiliano Pepar<strong>in</strong>i’s<br />

sumptuous adaptation of the old<br />

Christmas favourite, with dancers<br />

Alessandra Amato, Susanna Salvi,<br />

Claudio Coc<strong>in</strong>o and Alessio Rezza<br />

<strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> roles. Teatro dell’Opera<br />

di Roma, Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli,<br />

www.operadiroma.it.<br />




5-7 <strong>DEC</strong><br />

The Russian Classical Ballet was<br />

formed <strong>in</strong> Moscow <strong>in</strong> 2005 to<br />

promote the traditions of classical<br />

Russian ballet. It has chosen to<br />

perform one of the great traditional<br />

Christmas ballets, <strong>in</strong> classical style.<br />

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da<br />

Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.<br />

38 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>



GET YOUR<br />



asroma.com/en/ticket<strong>in</strong>g<br />



ON YOUR<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 39

classical<br />

classical<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g is a list of the ma<strong>in</strong> musical<br />

associations <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> but it is not a def<strong>in</strong>itive<br />

list of all the music that is available <strong>in</strong> the city.<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g is a list of the ma<strong>in</strong> musical<br />

There are also concerts <strong>in</strong> many of the<br />

associations <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> but it is not a def<strong>in</strong>itive<br />

churches and sometimes <strong>in</strong> the museums.<br />

list of all the music that is available <strong>in</strong> the city.<br />

There are also concerts <strong>in</strong> many of the<br />

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della<br />

churches and sometimes <strong>in</strong> the museums.<br />

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it<br />

Auditorium Auditorium Parco della Conciliazione, Musica, Viale Via P. de della<br />

Coubert<strong>in</strong> Conciliazione 30, www.auditorium.com<br />

4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it<br />

Accademia Auditorium Filarmonica Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale Teatro P. de<br />

Olimpico, Coubert<strong>in</strong> Piazza 30, www.auditorium.com<br />

Gentile da Fabriano 17,<br />

www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season<br />

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro<br />

starts on 15 Oct<br />

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17,<br />

Accademia www.filarmonicaromana.org. S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. The new season All<br />

concerts starts at on Auditorium 15 Oct Parco della Musica. The<br />

new<br />

Accademia<br />

season starts<br />

S.<br />

on 5<br />

Cecilia,<br />

Oct<br />

www.santacecilia.it. All<br />

Istituzione concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco dei Concerti, della Musica. Aula The<br />

Magna, new Università season starts la Sapienza, on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it<br />

Oratorio Istituzione del Gonfalone, Universitaria Via del dei Gonfalone Concerti, 32a, Aula<br />

www.oratoriogonfalone.com<br />

Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it<br />

<strong>Rome</strong>Concerts, Oratorio del Methodist Gonfalone, Church, Via del Piazza Gonfalone Ponte 32a,<br />

S. Angelo, www.oratoriogonfalone.com<br />

www.romeconcerts.it<br />

Roma <strong>Rome</strong>Concerts, S<strong>in</strong>fonietta, Methodist Auditorium Church, Ennio Morricone, Piazza Ponte<br />

Torvergata, S. Angelo, www.romas<strong>in</strong>fonietta.com<br />

www.romeconcerts.it<br />

Roma Roma Tre S<strong>in</strong>fonietta, Orchestra, some Auditorium concerts Ennio are at Morricone, Teatro<br />

Palladium, Torvergata, Piazza www.romas<strong>in</strong>fonietta.com<br />

Bartolomeo Romano 8,<br />

teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, Roma Tre Orchestra, some while concerts others are are at Teatro<br />

the Aula Palladium, Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Bartolomeo Filosofia Romano L<strong>in</strong>gue, 8,<br />

Universita teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze others 234, are at<br />

www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia L<strong>in</strong>gue,<br />

There<br />

Universita<br />

are often<br />

Roma<br />

concerts,<br />

Tre,<br />

festivals<br />

Via Ostienze<br />

and opera<br />

234,<br />

recitals<br />

www.r30.org<br />

<strong>in</strong> several churches <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>.<br />

All<br />

There<br />

Sa<strong>in</strong>ts'<br />

are<br />

Anglican<br />

often concerts,<br />

Church, Via<br />

festivals<br />

Babu<strong>in</strong>o<br />

and<br />

153,<br />

opera<br />

www.allsa<strong>in</strong>tsrome.org<br />

recitals <strong>in</strong> several churches <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>.<br />

All Sa<strong>in</strong>ts' Anglican Church, Via Babu<strong>in</strong>o 153,<br />

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S.<br />

www.allsa<strong>in</strong>tsrome.org<br />

Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com<br />

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S.<br />

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7<br />

Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com<br />

St Paul's Oratorio With<strong>in</strong> del Caravita, the Walls, Via Via della Nazionale Caravita and 7 the<br />

corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it<br />

St Paul's With<strong>in</strong> the Walls, Via Nazionale and the<br />

S. Agnese<br />

corner of<br />

<strong>in</strong><br />

Via<br />

Agone,<br />

Nazionale,<br />

Sagrestia<br />

www.stpaulsrome.it<br />

del Borrom<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

Piazza Navona<br />

S. Agnese <strong>in</strong> Agone, Sagrestia del Borrom<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

Palazzo Piazza Doria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called<br />

Opera Serenades by Night with D<strong>in</strong>ner throughout<br />

the year. Palazzo There Doria is a concert, Pamphilj a tour hosts of the a series museum called<br />

and Opera d<strong>in</strong>ner Serenades afterwards. by Night Via with del D<strong>in</strong>ner Corso throughout 305,<br />

www.doriapamphilj.com<br />

the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum<br />

and d<strong>in</strong>ner afterwards. Via del Corso 305,<br />

www.doriapamphilj.com<br />

5040 | Oct | December 2018 • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>in</strong> <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />



CINEMA<br />

CINEMA<br />

VENUES<br />

MUSIC<br />


CINEMA<br />

DANCE<br />

OPERA<br />

c<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

c<strong>in</strong>ema<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g c<strong>in</strong>emas show movies <strong>in</strong> English<br />

or orig<strong>in</strong>al language, and sometimes foreign<br />

film The festivals. follow<strong>in</strong>g See c<strong>in</strong>emas <strong>Wanted</strong> show <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> movies website <strong>in</strong> English for<br />

weekly or orig<strong>in</strong>al updates. language, and sometimes foreign<br />

film festivals. See <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> website for<br />

Adriano,<br />

weekly<br />

Piazza<br />

updates.<br />

Cavour 22, tel. 0636767<br />

Barber<strong>in</strong>i, Piazza Barber<strong>in</strong>i 24-26, tel.<br />

0686391361<br />

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767<br />

Casa<br />

Barber<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

del C<strong>in</strong>ema,<br />

Piazza<br />

Largo Marcello<br />

Barber<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Mastroianni<br />

24-26,<br />

1,<br />

tel.<br />

tel.<br />

0686391361<br />

06423601, www.casadelc<strong>in</strong>ema.it<br />

Casa del C<strong>in</strong>ema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1,<br />

C<strong>in</strong>ema dei Piccoli, Viale della P<strong>in</strong>eta 15, tel.<br />

tel. 06423601, www.casadelc<strong>in</strong>ema.it<br />

068553485<br />

C<strong>in</strong>ema dei Piccoli, Viale della P<strong>in</strong>eta 15, tel.<br />

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.<br />

068553485<br />

066864395, www.c<strong>in</strong>emafarnesepersol.com<br />

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.<br />

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825<br />

066864395, www.c<strong>in</strong>emafarnesepersol.com<br />

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230<br />

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825<br />

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361<br />

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230<br />

Nuovo Olimpia, Via <strong>in</strong> Luc<strong>in</strong>a 16/g, tel.<br />

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361<br />

066861068<br />

Nuovo Olimpia, Via <strong>in</strong> Luc<strong>in</strong>a 16/g, tel.<br />

Nuovo<br />

066861068<br />

Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116<br />

Odeon,<br />

Nuovo<br />

Piazza<br />

Sacher,<br />

Stefano<br />

Largo<br />

Jac<strong>in</strong>i<br />

Ascianghi<br />

22, tel.<br />

1,<br />

0686391361<br />

tel. 065818116<br />

Space Odeon, Moderno, Piazza Stefano Piazza della Jac<strong>in</strong>i Repubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 44, tel.<br />

06892111<br />

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.<br />

Space 06892111 Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecch<strong>in</strong>i<br />

3-5, tel. 06892111<br />

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecch<strong>in</strong>i<br />

3-5, tel. 06892111

d<br />

p<br />

p<br />

38 <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> | December 2017<br />

tTeatro<br />

06684000314, ww<br />

T<br />

Teatro Belli,<br />

06684000314, ww<br />

ww<br />

T<br />

Teatro<br />

ww<br />

Brancaccio,<br />

ww<br />

T<br />

Teatro ww Ghione,<br />

ww<br />

T<br />

Teatro ww<br />

06684000311, ww<br />

T<br />

06684000311, ww

WANTED<br />

<strong>in</strong>ROME<br />

junior<br />

Holiday Writ<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

St. Stephen’s School<br />

The Creative Writ<strong>in</strong>g and Visual Arts Classes at St.<br />

Stephen’s understand the beautiful chiaroscuro that<br />

occurs when the brightest lights sh<strong>in</strong>e dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

darkest nights. Teachers Ms Egan, Ms Fedich, and<br />

Ms Guerra hope that you will enjoy these works by<br />

students, celebrat<strong>in</strong>g the wonders of the season and<br />

the ways <strong>in</strong> which we cont<strong>in</strong>ue to light our paths<br />

through darkness, literal and metaphorical.<br />

A Collaboration by Natalie S. and Ilaria C., Grade 12<br />

Pulp Serenity<br />

The hill was plastered with bright orange trees,<br />

peel<strong>in</strong>g tambour<strong>in</strong>es like sk<strong>in</strong>s of mandar<strong>in</strong>s.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>d rumbled the trees and ruffled the waves.<br />

I foraged for you.<br />

Esmeralda I., Grade 9<br />

Snow lights<br />

Snowflakes were fall<strong>in</strong>g down on the frozen lake covered<br />

with frost, creat<strong>in</strong>g a soft and white carpet. You could hear<br />

the laughter of the children <strong>in</strong> the distance that got lower<br />

and lower and farther as the sun went down over the vast<br />

hills. You could still hear the Christmas carols of the stalls<br />

not far from there and the rustle of the skates of those<br />

who skated on the lake, creat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>tertw<strong>in</strong>ed l<strong>in</strong>es on the<br />

white carpet that covered the majestic lake. The chestnut<br />

smell became lighter and lighter as the ovens were turned<br />

off and the w<strong>in</strong>dows of the houses were closed and the<br />

only ones rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g outside under the night sky were<br />

those full of snow, look<strong>in</strong>g at the snowflakes cover<strong>in</strong>g even<br />

the flash<strong>in</strong>g colored lights that covered every corner and<br />

wall that kept the city alive.<br />

The fire of this year burn<strong>in</strong>g out, creat<strong>in</strong>g a blaz<strong>in</strong>g next<br />

year,<br />

A celebration filled with the next chapter of our lives,<br />

A time of joy and of new beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs, the new year’s<br />

celebration.<br />

Uma S., Grade 10<br />

The end of another year<br />

Lights, everywhere.<br />

Decorated on the balconies of apartments.<br />

On the door frames, and w<strong>in</strong>dows of houses.<br />

Constant<strong>in</strong>o M., Grade 10<br />

A New Year<br />

The evergreen leaves forever stuck to the ground,<br />

Frozen branches stiffly sway<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the icy w<strong>in</strong>d,<br />

As the match br<strong>in</strong>gs flame to the dry logs <strong>in</strong>side,<br />

a p<strong>in</strong>k warm scent flows through the home.<br />

Torn paper and ribbons left beh<strong>in</strong>d by eager children<br />

everywhere,<br />

Cold white snow fall<strong>in</strong>g from the gray cool sky,<br />

A picture perfect moment dur<strong>in</strong>g the years first and f<strong>in</strong>al<br />

frost,<br />

with the wheel of the world turn<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong> to a new year.<br />

Illustration by Milena A., Grade 12.<br />

42 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Illum<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g the t<strong>in</strong>y cracks and crevices of even the<br />

darkest spaces.<br />

Sparkl<strong>in</strong>g stars,<br />

A grand mystical, moon, light<strong>in</strong>g the way<br />

for the ones who thrive at night.<br />

Laughter, break<strong>in</strong>g across the world.<br />

In warm houses,<br />

filled with the sweet and savory aroma of spices and<br />

confectionary dishes.<br />

Giggl<strong>in</strong>g children,<br />

crowd<strong>in</strong>g the streets,<br />

Play<strong>in</strong>g with fire.<br />

Small, sizzl<strong>in</strong>g sparklers, <strong>in</strong> the little hands of kids.<br />

Big fireworks <strong>in</strong> the hands of the elders.<br />

P<strong>in</strong>k, purple, orange, blue.<br />

Every color and every hue.<br />

Loud music <strong>in</strong> the streets,<br />

the melodies and tunes from s<strong>in</strong>gers, and from those who<br />

th<strong>in</strong>k that they are s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Bask<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the snugness of familial, familiar love.<br />

Bath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the warmth of the quiet, crackl<strong>in</strong>g, fireplace.<br />

Eat<strong>in</strong>g salty, sugary treats until you lose fervor, and your<br />

stomach trembles.<br />

See<strong>in</strong>g smil<strong>in</strong>g faces, and those same tw<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g stars<br />

which decorate the night sky, <strong>in</strong> their eyes.<br />

Those few blissful days make up for those many months<br />

<strong>in</strong> isolation.<br />

Unable to see our loved ones, because of the rag<strong>in</strong>g<br />

dangers of the outside world.<br />

Tears form<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> your eyes,<br />

as the glee engulfs you and makes you feel light.<br />

Like ly<strong>in</strong>g on a delicate cloud of pure joy.<br />

The sore ache <strong>in</strong> your stomach keeps that memory fresh<br />

for days.<br />

Love, so much love.<br />

Why can’t it always be like this?<br />

Diwali, Hanukkah, Christmas,<br />

or any other celebration which you commemorate,<br />

wherever <strong>in</strong> the world it be;<br />

you will surely feel the beauty and true essence of the<br />

Holidays.<br />

Riccardo C., Grade 10<br />

Taciturn joy<br />

The sun, ever-present <strong>in</strong> the nooks and crannies between<br />

the build<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />

sh<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g its gold on lung<strong>in</strong>g leaves and pierc<strong>in</strong>gly red<br />

petals.<br />

Only ta<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g some parts of the sky,<br />

Illustration by Esma G., Grade 11.<br />

someth<strong>in</strong>g so beautiful it closes your throat up as if you<br />

were about to cry,<br />

left to dwell on the melancholies of lives you never lived.<br />

What a lucky little secret part of the world that is.<br />

The lucky bl<strong>in</strong>d muse opened my eyes to it.<br />

Christmas-y cute lil th<strong>in</strong>g:<br />

A little green world, developed on a branch of a christmas<br />

tree.<br />

Enveloped <strong>in</strong> silence it seems to be, yet everyth<strong>in</strong>g on it<br />

moves, talks and s<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />

They even have carols to celebrate. And sure,<br />

squirrels don’t really have a voice, but all that birds do<br />

is chant.<br />

That really makes me th<strong>in</strong>k, do they sit on a little table,<br />

ants, worms and all, exchang<strong>in</strong>g gifts and feel<strong>in</strong>g that<br />

warmth only family can give?<br />

Asia M., Grade 10<br />

The people walk<strong>in</strong>g down the roads<br />

Became far less and less,<br />

As December spreads its icy breath<br />

Amongst the city houses, penetrat<strong>in</strong>g the barrier of the<br />

chimneys<br />

That crack and ext<strong>in</strong>guish under its frigid grasp.<br />

The build<strong>in</strong>gs, and streets, now coated white<br />

Glimmer underneath the pale moonlight,<br />

Whilst the town’s roads are adorned with sparkl<strong>in</strong>g bulbs,<br />

And colorful tents that l<strong>in</strong>e the sidewalks,<br />

Offer<strong>in</strong>g mulled w<strong>in</strong>e, hot cider v<strong>in</strong>egar, and candied<br />

treats for the children.<br />

The festivities have begun <strong>in</strong> december’s last days,<br />

And the Christmas tree is decked with evergreen leaves,<br />

Sparkl<strong>in</strong>g red glass balls, and tw<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g lights.<br />

It stands tall, above all,<br />

those who are lost search<strong>in</strong>g for their way home,<br />

those who have found the pieces of themselves broken,<br />

those who have retrieved their butchered hearts, bloody<br />

and cold<br />

They wander adrift <strong>in</strong> the still cold of December's farewell<br />

snow.<br />

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> accepts creative contributions from students <strong>in</strong> all <strong>in</strong>ternational schools <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Rome</strong> or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations.<br />

Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wanted<strong>in</strong>rome.com.<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> • December <strong>2021</strong> | 43


<strong>DEC</strong>EMBER 4 -5<br />


Acquaprofonda<br />










<strong>DEC</strong>EMBER 4 - 12<br />


Tosca<br />








<strong>DEC</strong>EMBER 19 -<br />

JANUARY 2<br />


The nutcracker<br />








Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo<br />

operaroma.it<br />


dance<br />

dance<br />

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,<br />

Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it<br />

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano<br />

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,<br />

17, www.teatroolimpico.it<br />

Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it<br />

Teatro Vascello, Via Giac<strong>in</strong>to Car<strong>in</strong>i 78,<br />

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano<br />

www.teatrovascello.it<br />

17, www.teatroolimpico.it<br />

Teatro Vascello, Via Giac<strong>in</strong>to Car<strong>in</strong>i 78,<br />

www.teatrovascello.it<br />

opera<br />

opera<br />

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,<br />

Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it<br />

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,<br />

Piazza Beniam<strong>in</strong>o Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it<br />

p<br />

pop rock<br />

rock<br />

Concert venues rang<strong>in</strong>g from major pop and<br />

rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.<br />

Concert venues rang<strong>in</strong>g from major pop and<br />

Alexanderplatz, rock groups to Via jazz Ostia and acoustic 9, tel. 0683775604 gigs.<br />

www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it<br />

Angelo Alexanderplatz, Mai Altrove, Via Ostia Via 9, tel. delle 0683775604 Terme di<br />

Caracalla www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it<br />

55, www.angelomai.org<br />

Atlantico, Angelo Mai Viale Altrove, dell’Oceano Via Atlantico delle Terme 271d, di<br />

tel. Caracalla 065915727, 55, www.angelomai.org<br />

www.atlanticoroma.it<br />

Auditorium Atlantico, Viale Parco dell’Oceano della Musica, Atlantico Viale 271d, P. de<br />

Coubert<strong>in</strong>, tel. 065915727, tel. 06892982, www.atlanticoroma.it<br />

www.auditorium.com<br />

Casa Auditorium del Jazz, Parco Viale di della Porta Musica, Ardeat<strong>in</strong>a Viale 55, P. tel. de<br />

06704731, Coubert<strong>in</strong>, www.casajazz.it<br />

tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com<br />

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeat<strong>in</strong>a 55, tel.<br />

06704731, www.casajazz.it<br />

theatre<br />

theatre<br />

Teatro Argent<strong>in</strong>a, Largo di Torre Argent<strong>in</strong>a 52, tel.<br />

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net<br />

Teatro Argent<strong>in</strong>a, Largo di Torre Argent<strong>in</strong>a 52, tel.<br />

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875,<br />

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net<br />

www.teatrobelli.it<br />

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875,<br />

Teatro<br />

www.teatrobelli.it<br />

Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231<br />

www.teatrobrancaccio.it<br />

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231<br />

Teatro www.teatrobrancaccio.it<br />

Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294<br />

www.teatroghione.it<br />

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294<br />

Teatro www.teatroghione.it<br />

India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.<br />

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net<br />

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.<br />

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net<br />

50 | Jan 2019 • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong><br />

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.<br />

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com<br />

Live Lanificio Alcazar, 159, Via Via Card<strong>in</strong>ale Pietralata Merry del 159, Val tel. 14,<br />

tel. 0641780081, 065810388, www.lanificio159.com<br />

www.livealcazar.com<br />

Monk Live Alcazar, Club, Via Via Card<strong>in</strong>ale Giuseppe Merry Mirri del 35, Val 14, tel.<br />

0664850987, tel. 065810388, www.monkroma.it<br />

www.livealcazar.com<br />

PalaLottomatica, Monk Club, Via Piazzale Giuseppe dello Mirri Sport 35, 1, tel. tel.<br />

06540901, 0664850987, www.palalottomatica.it<br />

www.monkroma.it<br />

Rock PalaLottomatica, <strong>in</strong> Roma, Via Piazzale Appia dello Nuova Sport 1245, 1, tel. tel.<br />

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it<br />

0654220870 www.rock<strong>in</strong>roma.com<br />

Rock <strong>in</strong> Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.<br />

Teatro Quir<strong>in</strong>etta, Via Marco M<strong>in</strong>ghetti 5, tel.<br />

0669925616, 0654220870 www.rock<strong>in</strong>roma.com<br />

www.quir<strong>in</strong>etta.com<br />

Teatro Quir<strong>in</strong>etta, Via Marco M<strong>in</strong>ghetti 5, tel.<br />

Unplugged <strong>in</strong> Monti, Blackmarket, Via<br />

0669925616, www.quir<strong>in</strong>etta.com<br />

Panisperna 101, www.unplugged<strong>in</strong>monti.com<br />

Unplugged <strong>in</strong> Monti, Blackmarket, Via<br />

Panisperna 101, www.unplugged<strong>in</strong>monti.com<br />

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.<br />

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it<br />

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17,<br />

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432,<br />

tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it<br />

www.teatrosangenesio.it<br />

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432<br />

Teatro<br />

www.teatrosangenesio.it<br />

Sist<strong>in</strong>a, Via Sist<strong>in</strong>a 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsist<strong>in</strong>a.it<br />

Teatro Sist<strong>in</strong>a, Via Sist<strong>in</strong>a 129, tel. 064200711,<br />

Teatro www.ilsist<strong>in</strong>a.it Vascello, Via Giac<strong>in</strong>to Car<strong>in</strong>i 78, tel 065898031<br />

www.teatrovascello.it<br />

Teatro Vascello, Via Giac<strong>in</strong>to Car<strong>in</strong>i 78,<br />

Teatro tel. 065898031, Vittoria, www.teatrovascello.it<br />

Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel.<br />

065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it<br />

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10,<br />

tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it<br />

<strong>Wanted</strong> 51 <strong>in</strong> | <strong>Rome</strong> Oct 2018 • December • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong> | 45

46 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>



Literally mean<strong>in</strong>g “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.<br />

It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are comb<strong>in</strong>ed and formed <strong>in</strong>to a dome shape.<br />

The cake is brushed with a saffron glaze and baked <strong>in</strong> the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky <strong>in</strong>terior.<br />

Pangiallo is orig<strong>in</strong>ally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted dur<strong>in</strong>g the w<strong>in</strong>ter solstice to wish for the return<br />

of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.<br />

Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more diffused festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found <strong>in</strong> some of<br />

the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.<br />

However, prepar<strong>in</strong>g pangiallo at home is very simple and will fill your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guidel<strong>in</strong>e, but<br />

you could also add dried figs, p<strong>in</strong>e nuts or spices such as nutmeg, g<strong>in</strong>ger or c<strong>in</strong>namon accord<strong>in</strong>g to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it<br />

makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.<br />


80g almonds<br />

80g hazelnuts<br />

80g walnuts<br />

40g pistachios<br />

100g sultanas<br />

Ingredients<br />

40g mixed candied fruit<br />

100g honey<br />

100g dark chocolate<br />

Grated zest of 1 lemon<br />

Grated zest of 1 orange<br />

80g flour 00<br />


2 small sachets of saffron (2 x 0.1g bags)<br />

2 tbsp flour 00<br />

2 tbsp extra virg<strong>in</strong> olive oil<br />

By Kate Zagorski<br />

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate <strong>in</strong>to a glass bowl over a pan of boil<strong>in</strong>g water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is<br />

melt<strong>in</strong>g roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put <strong>in</strong>to a large mix<strong>in</strong>g bowl.<br />

Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and comb<strong>in</strong>e everyth<strong>in</strong>g together well us<strong>in</strong>g a fork. Add the honey and<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>ue to mix as you gradually pour <strong>in</strong> the melted chocolate. Lastly add the flour and, once comb<strong>in</strong>ed, use your hands to push down and form<br />

a compact dough.<br />

Place the dough on a bak<strong>in</strong>g tray l<strong>in</strong>ed with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it <strong>in</strong>to a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put<br />

2 tablespoons of flour <strong>in</strong>to a clean bowl, add the olive oil and saffron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick,<br />

creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake <strong>in</strong> the oven at 180°C for 35-40 m<strong>in</strong>utes until<br />

the outer crust is firm.<br />

Kate Zagorski has lived <strong>in</strong> Italy s<strong>in</strong>ce 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best w<strong>in</strong>e bars <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>:<br />

ten of our favourites that also serve food<br />

Sometimes an excellent w<strong>in</strong>e bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason<br />

we have put together a def<strong>in</strong>itive list<br />

Brylla – Trieste<br />

Brylla is a modern w<strong>in</strong>e bar with a a very smart<br />

idea: Corav<strong>in</strong>. Thanks to an unusual contraption,<br />

the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The<br />

outcome is extraord<strong>in</strong>ary, you can try a glass of<br />

anyth<strong>in</strong>g on the menu. And that’s hundreds of<br />

different grapes, from a more modest w<strong>in</strong>e to a<br />

Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass,<br />

half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu<br />

too (but you could f<strong>in</strong>d better). Via Chiana 77, tel.<br />

0685355669.<br />

Fafiuché – Monti<br />

Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter<br />

from life’s chaos. On a backstreet <strong>in</strong> Monti is the<br />

w<strong>in</strong>e bar where you’ll f<strong>in</strong>d high quality Piedmont<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es and also delicious dishes, such as braised<br />

meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied<br />

by preserves. If you are lucky you might be<br />

able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via<br />

della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.<br />

Litro – Monteverde<br />

Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it:<br />

the location is great with a lovely outdoor space.<br />

The staff are passionate and attentive. The w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

list (all organic) is excellent. The w<strong>in</strong>es are made<br />

with the highest quality <strong>in</strong>gredients, unlike other<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es you might f<strong>in</strong>d round and about. Via Fratelli<br />

Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.<br />

Sogno Autarchico – Prati<br />

Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly<br />

nice <strong>in</strong>doors – the room is crammed with a<br />

large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this<br />

w<strong>in</strong>e bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks<br />

to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at<br />

Simposio. You’ll f<strong>in</strong>d regulars here spann<strong>in</strong>g all sorts<br />

of ages, who hold this bar <strong>in</strong> high regard. Via<br />

Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.<br />

Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo<br />

Small and cosy, an oasis <strong>in</strong> S. Lorenzo, hidden<br />

amongst an array of fast food eateries with<br />

outdoor seat<strong>in</strong>g. Sorì really knows its stuff about<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es, and also about cook<strong>in</strong>g. As well as other<br />

delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega<br />

octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra<br />

(Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek.<br />

Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.<br />

Remigio Champagne e V<strong>in</strong>o – Appio<br />

Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana<br />

and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne<br />

and sparkl<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>es available, but there are also<br />

a great number of still w<strong>in</strong>es to choose from. We<br />

recommend pair<strong>in</strong>g a glass of w<strong>in</strong>e with the steak<br />

tartare, which is one of the best around. All the<br />

dishes are excellent, especially the crost<strong>in</strong>i, pastrami,<br />

and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S.<br />

Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.<br />

La Barrique – Monti<br />

At this very popular bar you can have an<br />

enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden<br />

tables, gaz<strong>in</strong>g at the shelves that show off the<br />

many w<strong>in</strong>e bottles. The array of w<strong>in</strong>es is truly<br />

excellent, and <strong>in</strong>cludes some organic bottles. They<br />

also offer w<strong>in</strong>e by the glass, and you can choose<br />

between slightly cheaper w<strong>in</strong>es or some rather<br />

special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer,<br />

but there’s always someth<strong>in</strong>g tasty. Via del<br />

Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.<br />

Il Goccetto – Historical centre<br />

An <strong>in</strong>stitution, one of the city’s first w<strong>in</strong>e bars, a cult<br />

spot for Romans and tourists look<strong>in</strong>g for a touch of<br />

the gourmet. They both sit by the bar wait<strong>in</strong>g for<br />

an extraord<strong>in</strong>ary platter of meats and cheeses<br />

which they wash down with a glass of w<strong>in</strong>e. Cosy<br />

and <strong>in</strong>timate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between<br />

a w<strong>in</strong>e bar offer<strong>in</strong>g 800 bottles and a Venetian<br />

bacaro (the venetian word for w<strong>in</strong>e bar). Truly one<br />

of the best w<strong>in</strong>e bars <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>. Via dei Banchi<br />

Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.<br />

Al V<strong>in</strong>o al V<strong>in</strong>o – Monti<br />

While there might not always be an enthusiastic<br />

and jolly atmosphere it’s def<strong>in</strong>itely worth a visit.<br />

The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who<br />

watches football games on the television while<br />

prepar<strong>in</strong>g the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately<br />

these are the only th<strong>in</strong>gs on the menu,<br />

other than a very saucy auberg<strong>in</strong>e parmigiana.<br />

We recommend tak<strong>in</strong>g your glass outside and<br />

watch<strong>in</strong>g passersby. There is a good selection of<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel.<br />

06485803.<br />

Trimani W<strong>in</strong>e Bar – Fiume<br />

Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and<br />

at this respectable age has certa<strong>in</strong>ly become one<br />

of <strong>Rome</strong>’s most classic w<strong>in</strong>e bars. Elegant and a<br />

little formal, there’s an <strong>in</strong>timate atmosphere and<br />

an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish,<br />

crost<strong>in</strong>o with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda<br />

and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci,<br />

buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is<br />

filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar.<br />

Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.<br />


Associations<br />

American International Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org<br />

American Women’s Association of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

tel. 064825268, www.awar.org<br />

Association of British Expats <strong>in</strong> Italy<br />

britishexpats<strong>in</strong>italy@gmail.com<br />

Canadian Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

canadarome@gmail.com<br />

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli<br />

Gay and lesbian <strong>in</strong>ternational contact group,<br />

tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net<br />

Commonwealth Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

ccrome08@gmail.com<br />

Daughters of the American Revolution<br />

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR<br />

paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com<br />

Books<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g bookshops and libraries have books<br />

<strong>in</strong> English and other languages as specified.<br />

Almost Corner Bookshop<br />

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942<br />

Anglo American Bookshop<br />

Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222<br />

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel<br />

Sa<strong>in</strong>t-Louis de France (French)<br />

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637<br />

www.sa<strong>in</strong>tlouisdefrance.it<br />

La librerie Française de <strong>Rome</strong> La Procure (French)<br />

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23,<br />

tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com<br />

Libreria Feltr<strong>in</strong>elli International<br />

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltr<strong>in</strong>elli.it<br />

Religious<br />

All Sa<strong>in</strong>ts’ Anglican Church<br />

Via del Babu<strong>in</strong>o 153/b tel. 0636001881<br />

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30<br />

Anglican Centre<br />

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2,<br />

tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentre<strong>in</strong>rome.com<br />

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community)<br />

tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org<br />

Bible Baptist Church<br />

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593,<br />

www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00<br />

Christian Science Services<br />

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425<br />

Church of All Nations<br />

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464<br />

Church of Sweden<br />

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15<br />

(Swedish)<br />

International Women’s Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it<br />

Irish Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org<br />

Luncheon Club of <strong>Rome</strong><br />

tel. 3338466820<br />

Patrons of Arts <strong>in</strong> the Vatican Museums<br />

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org<br />

Professional Woman’s Association<br />

www.pwarome.org<br />

United Nations Women’s Guild<br />

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org,<br />

www.unwgrome.multiply.com<br />

Welcome Neighbor<br />

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it,<br />

www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com<br />

Libreria Quattro Fontane (<strong>in</strong>ternational)<br />

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484<br />

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)<br />

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950,<br />

www.libreriaspagnola.it<br />

Open Door Bookshop<br />

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)<br />

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478,<br />

www.books-<strong>in</strong>-italy.com<br />

Otherwise<br />

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825,<br />

www.otherwisebookshop.com<br />

Footsteps Inter-Denom<strong>in</strong>ational Christian<br />

South <strong>Rome</strong>, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093,<br />

North <strong>Rome</strong>, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it<br />

International Central Gospel Church<br />

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695<br />

International Christian Fellowship<br />

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28,<br />

tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00<br />

Jewish Community<br />

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061<br />

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas<br />

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761<br />

Lutheran Church<br />

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70,<br />

tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)<br />

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church<br />

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314,<br />

Sunday Service 10.30<br />

50 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)<br />

Via dei SS. Quattro 1,<br />

tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00<br />

Roma Baptist Church<br />

Piazza S. Lorenzo <strong>in</strong> Luc<strong>in</strong>a 35,<br />

tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service<br />

10.30, 13.00 (Filip<strong>in</strong>o), 16.00 (Ch<strong>in</strong>ese)<br />

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara<br />

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091<br />

<strong>Rome</strong> International Church<br />

Via Cassia km 16, www.rome<strong>in</strong>ternational.org<br />

<strong>Rome</strong> Mosque (Centro Islamico)<br />

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258<br />

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church<br />

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627,<br />

Sunday service 11.00<br />

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)<br />

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org,<br />

Sunday service 11.00<br />

Support groups<br />

Alcoholics Anonymous<br />

tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com<br />

Archè<br />

(HIV+children and their families)<br />

tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it<br />

Associazione Centro Astalli<br />

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a,<br />

tel. 0669700306<br />

Associazione Ryder Italia<br />

(Support for cancer patients and their families)<br />

tel. 065349622/06582045580,<br />

www.ryderitalia.it<br />

Astra (Anti-stalk<strong>in</strong>g risk assessment)<br />

tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it<br />

Caritas soup kitchen<br />

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30,<br />

tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily<br />

Caritas foreigners’ support centre<br />

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554<br />

Caritas hostel<br />

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235<br />

Caritas legal assistance<br />

Piazza S. Giovanni <strong>in</strong> Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369<br />

Celebrate Recovery Christian group<br />

tel. 3381675680<br />

Transport<br />

• Atac (<strong>Rome</strong> bus, metro and tram)<br />

tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it<br />

• Ciamp<strong>in</strong>o airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it<br />

• Fiumic<strong>in</strong>o airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it<br />

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157-<br />

066645-064994<br />

• Traffic <strong>in</strong>fo tel. 1518<br />

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 89<strong>2021</strong>,<br />

www.trenitalia.it<br />

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)<br />

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359,<br />

Sunday service 10.00<br />

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic),<br />

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827,<br />

www.stpatricksamerican<strong>in</strong>rome.org<br />

Weekday Masses <strong>in</strong> English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00,<br />

Sunday 09.00 and 10.30<br />

St Paul’s with<strong>in</strong>-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)<br />

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339,<br />

Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)<br />

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)<br />

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121,<br />

Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30<br />

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic),<br />

Via di Monserrato 45,<br />

tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00<br />

Comunità di S. Egidio<br />

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234<br />

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen<br />

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327,<br />

17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat<br />

Information l<strong>in</strong>e for disabled<br />

tel. 800271027<br />

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre<br />

St Paul’s with<strong>in</strong>-the-Walls<br />

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli,<br />

tel. 064883339<br />

Mason Perk<strong>in</strong>s Deafness Fund<br />

(Support for deaf and deaf-bl<strong>in</strong>d children),<br />

tel. 06444234511, masonperk<strong>in</strong>s@gmail.com,<br />

www.mpds.it<br />

Overeaters Anonymous<br />

tel. 064743772<br />

Salvation Army<br />

(Esercito della Salvezza)<br />

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”<br />

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351<br />

Support for elderly victims of crime<br />

(Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104<br />

The Samaritans Onlus<br />

(Confidential telephone helpl<strong>in</strong>e for the distressed)<br />

tel. 800860022<br />

Chiamaroma<br />

24-hour, multil<strong>in</strong>gual <strong>in</strong>formation l<strong>in</strong>e for services <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Rome</strong>, run by the city council, tel. 060606<br />

Emergency numbers<br />

• Ambulance tel. 118<br />

• Carab<strong>in</strong>ieri tel. 112<br />

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336<br />

• Fire brigade tel. 115<br />

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999<br />

• Police tel. 113<br />

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355<br />

52 | December <strong>2021</strong> • <strong>Wanted</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Rome</strong>

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