Wanted in Rome DEC 2021

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2021 | € 2,00
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CONT
EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON
4. Dante's Inferno can
still create images
of hell on earth
today
Mary Wilsey
10. PIETRO DA CORTONA:
ROME’S THIRD BAROQUE
GENIUS
Martin Bennett
14. CHRISTMAS CRIBS AND
NATIVITY SCENES IN ROME
Andy devane
16. LAKES AROUND ROME
18. ROME FOR children
20. STREET ART guide
22. MUSEUMS
24. ART GALLERIES
40. CULTURAL VENUES
42. Wanted in rome junior
45. RECIPE
46. puntarella rossa
50. USEFUL NUMBERS
30. EXHIBITIONS
32. ART news
34. OPERA
36. Classical
38. Dance
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Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2021 | € 2,00
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ENTS
4
Dante's Inferno can still create
images of hell on earth today
30 10
EXHIBITIONS
PIETRO DA CORTONA:
ROME’S THIRD BAROQUE GENIUS
38
classical

Art
DANTE'S INFERNO CAN STILL
CREATE IMAGES OF HELL
ON EARTH TODAY
SCUDERIE DEL QUIRINALE TAKES VISITORS ON A
HELLISH TOUR INSPIRED BY DANTE'S INFERNO
Mary Wilsey
The exhibition Inferno at Scuderie del
Quirinale, open until 9 January, marks the
700th anniversary of the death of Dante
Alighieri. Coming shortly after the show on Raffaele,
to mark the 500th anniversary of the painter's birth,
this is another feather in the Scuderie's cap.
While the Raffaele exhibition had to shut because
of the covid-19 lockdown, L'Inferno was organised
during the pandemic. It is an impressive achievement
that the curator and French art historian, Jean Clair,
together with the Le Scuderie del Qurinale, managed
to put together 232 works, from 87 collections
and 15 countries at a time when the world was
effectively still in lockdown, or at least not working
at its normal pace.
It is strange therefore that images of plagues and
their various manifestations are nowhere to be
seen in this exhibition. How many pandemics over
the centuries have created their own versions of
hell, death, fear, anxiety, loneliness and economic
Dante in exile by Domenico Petarlini (1897).
4 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Gli orrori della guerra: l’esodo by Gaetano Previati (1917).
devastation? Perhaps the pandemic is still too close
to us, too difficult to understand, to have been
included in this exhibition.
Clair first thought up the idea of an exhibition on
the subject of hell in happier times, back in 2006. It
was turned down when he suggested it to the Prado.
Perhaps that was not the right moment, when
thoughts of hell and the devil had almost vanished
from the public sphere. So it was not until the
Scuderie approached the French art historian to
mark the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante
that the exhibition at the Quirinale came into being.
The anniversary of Dante's death was a good reason
to look at the theme of hell. But as Clair himself
explains, this exhibition is not only about Dante
and the first book of The Divine Comedy. It is about
the manifestations of hell on earth. Starting with
the portrayal of hell and the devil in the teachings
of the Mediaeval Church, it follows through with
more recent manifestations of hell, such as war,
the dehumanisation of the industrial revolution,
genocide, mental illness, terrorism. It is all the
more surprising therefore that it completely ignores
plague as one of its hells.
The exhibition begins with the silent film
Inferno made in 1911 by Francesco Bertolini.
Here anyone who has read, or set out to read,
the first book of The Divine Comedy will feel at
home. Not surprisingly the seats at the top of
the first magnificent flight of the Scuderie stairs
are occupied mainly by young students, probably
well-versed in their Dante. For those who want
to move on quickly to the rest of this exhibition
there is another chance to see the film on the
way out.
The first few rooms are dominated by scenes of
multitudes of writhing, naked bodies in various
states of agony and confusion. One of the first
examples is La Caduta degli Angeli Rebelli by
Francesco Bertos (1750), carved from a single
piece of Carrara marble. Another is a small
painting Gli Inferi (1622) by Monsù Desiderio
(François de Nome) who worked most of his
life in Naples. The painting from the Bresançon
Museum of Art and Archaeology stands out for
its composition, lighting, perspective and sheer
complexity of the array of small white bodies
writhing their way across the scene.
However it is unquestionably the plaster of
Rodin's massive unfinished Gates of Hell inspired
by Dante's Inferno that dominates the early
part of the exhibition. Its 180 figures were a
foundation for much of Rodin's subsequent work,
as is evident from some of the smaller figures
on display in the exhibition. Rodin worked on
the Gates of Hell most of his life but was never
satisfied and never finished them completely. Not
long before he died in 1917 he gave the drawings
and sculptures to the French state but they were
not finally cast in bronze until 1928.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 5

Their sheer size acts as both an inspiration for
visitors to the exhibition and a barrier. In order to
get the correct perspective the Gates are set so far
back in the room that it is difficult to manoeuvre
around them, especially when they are blocked
by a guided group of visitors. The Gates have
a fascinating history of their own, but for the
purposes of this exhibition it is exciting enough
to see the central figure, originally called The Poet,
after Dante of course, but which became the model
for The Thinker, one of the world's best-loved pieces
of sculpture.
In sharp contrast to Rodin's massive Gates are the
paintings of Dante alongside Virgil guiding him
through hell. The red of Dante's clothing lightens
the unremitting darkness of the exhibition space
and his well-known face is comfortingly familiar
compared with all the paintings of contorted
bodies in the first few rooms. Even the pensive
and sorrowful portrait from the Uffizi of Dante in
Exile by Domenico Petarlini (1897) is better than
the visions of hell that come before it.
La Caduta degli Angeli Rebelli by Francesco Bertos (1750).
A series of sensitive contemporary mixed media
works by Miquel Barceló, who produced 300
illustrations between 2000 and 2002 for The
Divine Comedy, lighten the gloom in one of the
following rooms. They manage to convey Barceló's
own feeling of just how contemporary The Divine
Comedy still is today.
Up the winding stairs to the next floor and the
scene of Sicilian puppets brings a welcome relief,
well explained in its label:
"Nella cultura popolare l'inferno e il diavolo assumono
a volte un carattere meno minaccioso o additura
burlesco, che esprime al contempo la paura che ispirano
e la possibilità di sconfiggerlo."
For a moment the prevailing feeling of evil shifts
as the emphasis of the exhibition moves away from
visions of hell to the devil himself, a character once
so feared in religious belief but now dismissed as
superstitious nonsense in contemporary society.
Next comes a series of paintings, one by Cézanne,
on the Temptations of St Anthony of Egypt. The
key to these is not so much the small Cézanne
but the work by the Neapolitan painter Domenico
Morelli painted in 1878 and probably influenced
by Flaubert's prose poem of the same name.
Here is a mix of eroticism and mysticism, realism
and symbolism, with St Anthony centre stage,
Gates of Hell by Auguste Rodin.
clutching his cloak around him, as he stares into
the far distance to avoid the temptations of two
seductive women clearly enjoying their efforts to
drive the desert father to desperation.
From these temptations in a religious key the
exhibition moves to the hell on earth of the 19th and
20th centuries. The subjects make a devastatingly
long list; industrialisation, the brutality of
6 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

two world wars, death and disfiguration, the
extermination of the concentration camps, the
Holocaust, madness, terrorism. The canvases
crowded with desperate bodies are back, pushing
up against each other, either in death or trying
to avoid it. The painting by Gaetano Previati, Gli
orrori della guerra: l’esodo (1917) shows civilians
fleeing death in a scene that is all too familiar
today, whether of Afghanis pushing in desperation
to climb on to get-away planes at Kabul airport or
of cold, starving refugees on the Belarus border
forced up against the barbed wire across the
Polish frontier.
One painting stands out among the others, La
Matta by Giacomo Balla (1905) from the National
Gallery in Rome. The woman illustrates another
form of hell, of the inability to control one's body,
of loneliness and isolation. The lone woman
stands at an open door, alone but not alone, as she
desperately attempts to control her movements and
to communicate with someone inside the room.
From one agony to another, to that of disfigured
faces, plaster casts of faces disfigured by the
wounds of war, the living dead. Here is the
double tragedy not just of the physical pain of
the disfigured faces but also of the annihilation of
their previous identity.
Moving into the next room the original typescript
of Primo Levi's If this is a Man, the testimony to
his time in Auschwitz, seems shockingly down
to earth. Here are pages familiar to anyone who
grew up with typewriters; the crossings out,
the additions, the re-writings, the painstaking
afterthoughts before a work is finally sent to
the publisher. The onlooker cannot help feeling
guilty to be looking so dispassionately at this
sanitised version of the Holocaust, of what is left
of that desperate suffering and subsequent pain.
The Twin Towers in Flames (2003) by British
sculptor Raymond Mason doesn't manage to
convey the shock of that out-of-the-blue event
but it takes the exhibition right up to date and
conveys once again the crowding, the lack of
space, of bodies pushing up against each other in
terror and horror.
Then finally, in the last section, we are out to the
stars, almost as though we were clambering out
of that hell-hole ourselves in those wonderful last
lines of Dante's L'inferno.
La Matta by Giacomo Balla (1905).
E senza cura aver d'alcun riposo
salimmo su, el primo e io secondo,
tanto ch'i' vidi delle cose belle
che porta 'l ciel, per un pertugio tondo --
e quindi uscimmo a riveder le stelle.
"And with no rest from the fatigue of it,
We clambered up, he first, till finally I saw the
heavenly spheres
Through a round hole, the aperture whence we
Emerged to look once more upon the stars".
Two works by Anselm Keifer end the exhibition but
we aren't quite out of hell yet. There is something
challenging about Stelle Cadente (1995). Here is a
man on his back under the stars, motionless with
his eyes shut, as though there were something
troubling and challenging him as he lies in a deathlike
position. Is it wonder or fear? as he lies in a
death-like position. Is it wonder or fear?
It is only as we walk down the magnificent final
staircase of Le Scuderie, with its view over the
roof tops of Rome, off to the dome of St Peter's in
the distance, that we are finally able to leave those
images of hell behind.
8 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 9

Art
PIETRO DA CORTONA:
ROME’S THIRD BAROQUE
GENIUS
CORTONA COMPETES WITH TWO MORE FAMOUS
CONTEMPORARIES
Martin Bennett
Open any guide-book and, to reduce fame
to a crude word-count, the Bs have it:
Bernini and Borromini. Or vice-versa. Part
alphabetical/alliterative coincidence perhaps, part
their biographically fascinating rivalry, Bernini and
Borromini have tended to push Pietro da Cortona
Rome’s third Baroque genius to the background.
Right of SS. Maria Maggiore’s altar Bernini’s simple
grave-slab contains the phrase ‘DECUS ARTIUM
ET URBIS’/ glory of arts and city. The same could
be said of Pietro da Cortona. Spectacular ceilings,
tapestries, fresco-cycles, church and palace façades
and an entire church, SS. Luca e Martina, in the
Roman Forum. His work adorns Rome, and also
beyond.
Like Bernini’s father, Cortona was Tuscan, together
with the same-named town (Cortona) the painter,
a.k.a Pietro Berrettini, is named after. And it was
Florentine merchant-banker/ecclesiastical family,
the Sacchetti, who supplied his first commissions.
He designed one of the family villas, the sincedemolished
Casa del Pigneto – out along Via Aurelia,
north of the Tiber – and brilliantly reproduced it on
canvas. Undepicted are the mosquitoes which would
soon make the palace uninhabitable. Between the
Tiber and a sail-flecked sea, the building stands
spotlit by a break in the clouds.
Cortona's vast Allegory of Divine Providence and Barberini
Power marked a watershed in Baroque painting.
In the Sachetti family’s second/substitute ‘casa’, 66
Via Giulia, his portrait of Cardinal Giulio Sacchetti
(now in Galleria Borghese) was long the salone’s
centre-piece. For the cardinal’s brother, Marcello,
there were a series of early paintings eventually
passed down to the Capitoline museum. One is a
haunting depiction of Marcello, a model of taste
10 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

and elegance. An anxious/melancholy gaze and the
left hand clutching a white handerchief suggests
the illness causing the nobleman’s untimely death
(1629).
Tuscan connections recurring, when Maffeo
Barberini (from another exiled Florentine family)
became pope, Marcello Sacchetti was appointed
his general and secret treasurer. Pietra da Cortona,
talent already proven, was in the right place and at
the right time, progressing from Sacchetti painter/
architect to papal one. But, unlike occasionally
volatile Bernini and the infamously grumpy
Borromini, Cortona with his reassuringly stable
character wasn’t inclined to throw such opportunities
away. To quote art historian Jorg Merz, “He moved
gently through Rome’s quarrelsome artistic world,
avoiding the limelight.” Writing in 1736, Pascoli
(one of Cortona’s biographers) describes him as
“friendly and charming, courteous and wary when
he spoke of himself.”
And so to his frescoes in S. Bibiana, where in 1624,
during fitful renovation work, masons came upon
two urns. Given the church’s associations with the
family home of the Roman martyr, the pope quickly
identified the remains as the saint’s, and a favourable
omen for his papacy. Sacchetti providing funding,
renovation was stepped up. Bernini assumed
architectural duties, Cortona that of painting one of
the three naves. The church nowadays stands like
an abandoned ship between Termini’s numerous
rail-tracks.
‘Se piove pe’ Santa Bibiana, piove quaranta giorni e
un’ settimana’ goes a local proverb. (If it rains
on S. Bibiana’s Day, it’ll rain for 40 days and a
week.) And Cortona’s frescoes (of the saint refusing
to worship pagan gods, and her subsequent
martyrdom) are interwoven with motifs depicting
lush fruit and foliage. The bucolic imagery points
back to the fertility of Horti Liciniani outside, a
source of herbs against nervous disorders, the saint
appropriating curative powers previously attributed
to the Minerva Medicina Roman temple down the
road (Via Giolitti.)
Cortona and Bernini next meet in the Capitoline
Museums. In Cortona’s theatrical and life-sized
Rape of the Sabine Women. Like the sculptor, Cortona
designed masques and stage-sets and two figures in
the foreground seem familiar; their poses borrow
from Bernini’s Daphne and Apollo/ Pluto and
Proserpine statues. Hereby saving costs of a model?
The Baroque façade of S. Maria della Pace was added by
Cortona at the behest of Pope Alexander VII.
From his apprenticeship under Domenichino,
Cortona was a prolific drawer; sculptures and friezes
supplied a repertoire of ready-made, dramaticallyproven
stances. Yet, adopting the then-fashionable
idea that painting and poetry are sides of the same
coin, Cortona would add any number of imaginative,
sometimes humorous touches of his own.
In his Triumph of Bacchus in the Capitoline Museums,
for example, an infant centaur totters on the tips of
his hooves to peer inside an amphora. Offsetting the
classical fixities of the temple behind is the rollicking
energy of the god’s entourage. A riot of colour as
well as limbs, critics citing the influence of Rubens
who had passed through Rome not long before
(1606-8). Cortona’s versality continues in a ‘protolandscape’
of the alum mine to which Pope Urban
had awarded the Sacchetti family a monopoly.
Inside Palazzo Barberini Cortona takes a leap in
scale. Climb either stairway – Borromini’s spiral or
Bernini’s grand, if-more-conventional, equivalent
– the ceiling in the Salone hosts another triumph,
‘The Allegory of Divine Providence and Barberini
Power.’ Cortona directs a cast of hundreds.
Artist fees often depended on just that, the number
of figures portrayed, here to the princely tune of
4000 ducats. Temperance, Religion and Piety
personified, occupy their respective clouds. Fury,
disarmed, reclines on his weapons. Dunce Titans
get flunked by a spear-wielding Minerva. Crane
your neck some more and there’s Hercules clubbing
Avarice’s harpies. At ceiling’s centre hover, like
heraldic aeroplanes, so-called ‘bomber bees’, the
Barberini symbole.
Images of nepotism? Cortona a servant of power?
But wait. Off to one side Silenus, the boozy centaur,
appears to slip Providence’s gaze. As he’s poured
another drink, the glorious slob, on transfer for
“The Triumph of Bacchus”, almost steals the
scene. Cortona, then, is a secret satirist? Except,
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 11

Art
this piece of street theatre’s effect that a wall-notice
stipulates the design be in no way changed by future
generations. Today’s crowds keep to nearby Piazza
Navona. Comparatively secluded, Piazza della Pace,
matching its name, remains one of Roma’s most
delightful squares. And to think Cortona claimed
his architecture was a mere hobby…
Also little visited in SS. Luca and Martina. As
tourists shuttle between the Roman Forum and
Campidoglio, the church is easily overlooked, which
is a pity, given its beautiful crypt. Cortona’s work
actually began back under Pope Urban, inspired,
as with S. Bibiana, by concurrent exhumation of
a saint – Martina. The remains’ authenticity has
since been contested*, but initially fortune and/or
providence seemed in Cortona’s favour. Until his
patron, Cardinal Francesco Barberini, was accused
by Innocent X of embezzlement and fled to France.
A seven year interruption ensued. After which
Cortona’s work started again, this time on the upper
church, including rose-stuccoed dome and the floor
where he would eventually be buried.
Self portrait by Pietro da Cortona.
from his sympathetic portrait of Urban VIII back
in the Capitoline Museums one may hazard that
the Barberini pope is smiling too. The ceiling could
have turned out differently. While Cortona was away
decorating Florence’s Pitti Palace, two overweening
assistants determined to complete the masterwork
on their own. However their presumption was
checked when the intonaco / plaster ran out,
stuccatori’s / plasterers’ pay having fallen in arrears.
Urban’s papacy once ended, Barberini cardinals
having fled to France, one might expect a downturn
in Cortona’s fortunes. But, talent and tact ever to
the fore, he was soon decorating pro-Spanish
Innocent X’s Pamphilij palace/ new power-centre in
Piazza Navona with “Stories of Aeneas.” Ownership
currently resting with the Brazilian embassy, the
fresco-cycle is visitable twice a week for guided
tours in Italian and Portuguese.
Under Alexander VII, Cortona’s first Chigi
commission was S. Maria della Pace.
The facade of the new church, alternating concave
and convex a la Borromini, conjured harmony from
urban mess. Better seen than described, a confined
space suddenly seemed much larger. So pleasing was
Out of envy or no, some of Cortona’s fellow S. Luca
academicians suspected a plot to turn the church,
(his ‘beloved daughter’ he called it) into a private
mausoleum**. The lower church was roped off
and a six-year controversy broke out. Accusing the
academicians of obtructionism, Cortona’s supporters
prevailed, duly placing in the lower church a more
fulsome wall-plaque/cenonotaph and bust.
Not that Cortona ceased painting altogether. Next
door to the rippling façade of Borromini’s Oratory,
S. Maria in Vallicella combines spectacle with the
miraculous. Look up and one sees an expanse of
(blue) sky. The church-roof, or its remains, threatens
to crash down on one’s head. Only the presence of
the Virgin and some strong-armed putti prevent
disaster.
Cortona continued creating alterpieces. In
Borromini’s S. Ivo, then in S. Carlo dei Catinari.
In Pope Alexander’s 1661 refurbishment of Castel
Gandolfo’s church to newly-canonised Tommaso
da Villanova, he created The Crucifixion altarpiece.
Working alongside him in the church was Bernini,
as they had done back in S. Bibiana 37 years before.
*Donatella Sparti, Article, 998
**Corinna Ricosoli- from ‘Who telleth a tale of unspeaking
death’, Dublin
12 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE
1 JANUARY 2021?
Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your
new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon
as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your
electronic ID card.
Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Christmas in Rome
CHRISTMAS CRIBS AND
NATIVITY SCENES IN ROME
ROME HOSTS A RICH DISPLAY OF
CHRISTMAS CRIBS AND NATIVITY SCENES
DURING THE FESTIVE SEASON
Andy Devane
Te best known crib exhibition in Rome, and
perhaps in the world, is 100 Presepi. The 2021
edition of the international display, now in its
46 th year, is being held under the colonnade in St Peter’s
Square from 5 January until 9 January. A firm fixture on
Rome’s Christmas calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts
some Nativity scenes from across Italy and dozens of other
countries.
In addition to contemporary replicas of traditional 18thcentury
Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and 19th-century
Roman mangers, there are modern versions made from
wood, papier-mâché and terracotta, as well as unconventional
materials such as sand, rice and metal. 100 Presepi was
established in Rome in 1976 and took place in Piazza
del Popolo until four years ago. Today it is organised by
the Vatican’s Pontifical Council for the Promotion of the
New Evangelisation. For visiting details see website, www.
presepi.it.
This year’s Nativity scene in St Peter’s Square will feature
30 life-sized figurines dressed in Andean costumes in what
is the Vatican’s first crib to come from the Americas. The
Nativity scene, which was created by five artists from the
Chopcca Nation of indigenous peoples in the Huancavelica
region of Peru, will feature alpacas, vicunas and the
Andean condor, Peru’s national symbol.
Christmas in St Peter's Square
several years ago.
The figurines, made of ceramic, maguey wood and
fibreglass, will be dressed in traditional Chopcca costumes.
Baby Jesus will be represented as a “Hilipuska” child,
reports Vatican News, wrapped in a typical Huancavelica
blanket tied with a “chumpi” or woven belt. The Three
Wise Men will carry traditional food including quinoa and
other indigenous cereals, and they will be accompanied by
llamas draped in the Peruvian flag.
The inauguration ceremony at 17.00 on 10 December will
also see the Vatican switch on the lights on its Christmas
tree, a 28m-high spruce gifted from the northern Trentino
region of Italy. The 113-year-old tree, weighing eight tons,
comes from a sustainable forestry management project in
Andalo whose artisans have handcrafted the 600 wooden
decorations.
A traditional-style crib can be found each year in the
church of off Largo Chigi, in the city centre, which for the
last six decades has housed the work of Italian members
of the global crib-building association Amici del Presepio.
A more unusual manger scene can be found near St Peter’s
on Via dei Cavalleggeri 5. The street cleaner’s crib, owned
and cared for by Rome’s refuse collection company AMA,
has a floor containing over 1,400 different stones brought
by pilgrims from all over the world. For details about
visiting the presepe dei netturbini see AMA website www.
amaroma.it.
Rome’s Christmas tree, a 25-metre high fir from Trentino,
is located in Piazza Venezia. This year’s tree is dedicated
to the battle against food waste and world hunger by
the Rome-based UN Food and Agriculture Organization
which will place 17 giant gift packages – symbolising
FAO’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals – at the tree’s
base, local media reports. The tree will be illuminated
at 17.30 on 8 December, on the religious feast of the
Immaculate Conception, with the lights along the city’s
main thoroughfare, Via del Corso, switched on at the same
time.
14 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Italy's first
AP School
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www.aosr.org/admissions
The Best of an
American-International
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LAGO DI ALBANO
This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with
beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding
forests. The picturesque towns along the shores
serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans,
including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer
papal palace whose gardens were recently opened
to the public. On the other side of the lake is
Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable
English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The
towns surrounding the lake are known for their
restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming,
fishing and boating are among the favourite
activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located
on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride
from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by
taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and
getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around
rome
LAGO DI NEMI
Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake
where divers in the 19th century discovered two
large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor
Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom
of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.
Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are
on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.
Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the
lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century
foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated
with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for
the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.
Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia
southbound as far as Genzano, and then following
signs for Nemi.
LAGO DI VICO
Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus,
Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop
set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding
nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is
most characteristic of the area are the hazel and
chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels
offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two
towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola
with its magnificent and recently restored Villa
Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from
Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at
Sutri.
LAGO DI BOLSENA
Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant
since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands
and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The
area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore
of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The
town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist
resort in summer and it is here that the famous
so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263
when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood
coming from the host that he had just consecrated
at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake
is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides
activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year
round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from
Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini
Station are infrequent.
LAGO DI BRACCIANO
Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake
Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes
for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a
little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for
swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale
operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.
Churches and historic sites are located in the three
small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano
and Anguillara. There are also places for camping
and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an
hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense
station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century
Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen
as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also
an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.
LAGO DI MARTIGNANO
This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake
Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with
scenic views of the surrounding meadows and
wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor
activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain
biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and
luggage storage are available to rent along with
canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is
also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding
the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car
is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public
transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano
and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
16 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

IB WORLD SCHOOL
A rewarding international
education. Ages 2 to 18.
Request information!
+39 06 84482 651
romeinternationalschool.it
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 17

ARTandSEEK
Please note that not all of these activites
English-language are currently open, cultural due workshops to the and covid-19 visits to
museums
crisis. It
and
is
exhibitions
advisable
for
to
children
check
in
websites
Rome. For
event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com,
or see website, www.artandse-
for visiting details and make reservation
ekforkids.com.
before going.
Bioparco
Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers
special activities for children and their families at
weekends and during the summer. When little legs
get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric
train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20
(Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course,
with good facilities for children aged 4 and over,
adults and disabled children.
There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and
a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta),
tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids
can learn about nature and how to care for the
environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature
park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409,
www.valledeicasali.com.
Casina di Raffaello
Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme
of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural
projects and educational activities for children from
the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and
17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana),
tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
18 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Cinecittà World
This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic
of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and
virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super
Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with
cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from
EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S.
148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and
competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.
Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano),
tel. 3356525473.
Explora
The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises
creative workshops for small children in addition to
holding regular animated lectures, games and
meetings with authors of children’s books. Via
Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for
children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult
and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see
website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.
0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Gymboree
This children's centre caters to little people aged
from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities,
music, art, baby play, school skills and even English
theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante
(Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural
workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes
in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend
activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and
harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be
accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia
Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports
expectant mothers, parents, babies and small
children. It holds regular educational and social
events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata
169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is
Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include
ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo
tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style
farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee
€2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre
Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are
divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and
kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water
roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and
the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte,
south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038
Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Time Elevator
A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema
experience with a motion-base platform, bringing
the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun
way. The time-machine's commentary is available
in six languages including English. Daily
11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS.
Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.
Zoomarine
This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome
offers performances with dolphins, parrots and
other animals for children of all ages. It is also
possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10
must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca
61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 19

Rome’s Rome's reputation as as an an important street art art capital continues to to grow grow with with new new murals murals by important by Italian Italian and
international and international street street artists artists appearing appearing all the all time. the Most time. of Most the works of the are works located are in located the suburbs, in the suburbs, often far often from the far
centre. from the Here centre. is where Here to is find where Rome’s to find main the street main art street projects art and projects murals. and murals around Rome.
Esquilino
Esquilino
Murals Murals by by Alice Alice Pasquini, Gio Gio
Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini,
Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura,
dell'Architettura,
Piazza Mafredo Manfredo Fanti Fanti 47. 47.
Marconi
Marconi
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo
Gestito dai Rom), a project by French
Gestito dai Rom), a project by French
street street artist artist Seth Seth is located is located in a former in a
former soap factory soap factory on Via on Antonio Via Antonio Avoga-
Avogadro, opposite opposite Ostiense's Ostiense’s landmark
landmark Gasometro. Gasometro. For For details see see
www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di
Metropoliz
Metropoliz
This
This
former
former
meat
meat
factory
factory
in
in
the
the
outskirts of of Rome is is now now a a street street art
art museum as as well as being home to to
some 200 squatting squatters, migrants. many of The them
Museo migrants. dell’Altro The Museo e dell’Altrove di e
Metropoliz, dell’Altrove or di MAAM, Metropoliz, is only or MAAM, open
on
is
Saturdays,
only open
and
on
features
Saturdays,
the work
and
features the work of more than 300
of more than 300 artists including
artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio
Edoardo
Pistone, Sten&Lex
Kobra,
and
Gio
Diamond.
Pistone,
See
Sten&Lex, MAAM Facebook Pablo Echaurren page for details. and
Borondo. Via Prenestina See MAAM 913. Facebook page
for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Ostiense
Fronte Del Del Porto Porto by by Blu. Blu. Via Via del Porto del
Fluviale.
Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via
Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via
del Porto Fluviale.
del Wall Porto of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei
Wall Magazzini of Fame Generali. by JB Rock. Via dei
Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass,
Shelley Via Ostiense. by Ozmo. Ostiense
underpass, Palazzo occupato Via Ostiense. by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via
Pigneto
Ostiense.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by
Pigneto
Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by
Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via
Via
Fanfulla
Fanfulla
da
da
Lodi.
Lodi.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.
Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via
Francesco Baracca.
Prati
Prati
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù.
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo
Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via
Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.
Andrea Daniza the Doria. bear by Daniza ROA. Via the Sabotino. bear by
ROA. Via Sabotino.
Primavalle
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via
Cristoforo
Cristoforo Numai.
Numai.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by
Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
Quadraro
Tunnel murals by by Mr Mr THOMS and and Gio
Gio Pistone. Pistone. Via Decio Via Decio Mure. Mure.
Nido
Nido di
di
Vespe
Vespe
by
by
Lucamaleonte.
Lucamaleonte.
Via
Via
del
Monte del Grano.
del Monte del Grano.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei
Baby Pisoni Hulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei
Pisoni 89.
Rebibbia
Murals by Blu. Via Via Ciciliano and Via
Palombini (Casal dè dè Pazzi). Pazzi).
Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.
Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.
Metro B station.
Metro B station.
S. S. Basilio
SanBa features large-scale works on
the façades of social-housing blocks in
in the the disadvantaged disadvantaged north-east north-east suburb of
S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration
project includes works by Italian
suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia.
The
artists
regeneration
Agostino Iacurci,
project
Hitnes
includes
and Blu
works alongside by Spain's Italian Liqen. artists Via Agostino Maiolati,
Iacurci, Via Osimo, Hitnes Via Recanati, and Blu Via alongside Arcevia,
Spain’s Via Treia. Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via
Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia,
S. Giovanni
Via Treia.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via
S. Giovanni
Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via
Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s
It’s a
New
New
Day
Day
by
by
Alice
Alice
Pasquini.
Pasquini.
Via
Anton Via Anton Ludovico. Ludovico.
S. Lorenzo
S. Alice Lorenzo Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.
Alice Feminicide Pasquini. Via mural dei Sabelli. by Elisa
Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.
Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.
Via Dei Sardi.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.
Mural by by Agostino Agostino Iacurci Iacurci on the on
Istituto the Istituto Superiore Superiore di Vittorio di Lattanzio, Vittorio
Via Lattanzio, Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia.
S. Pietro
S.
Uma
Pietro
Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S.
di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del
Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Gallo.
Testaccio
Hunted Wolf by by ROA. Via Via Galvani.
#KindComments by by Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Via
Volta,
Via Volta,
Testaccio
Testaccio
market.
market.
Tor Pignattara
Tor Pignattara
Dulk. Dulk. Via Via Antonio Antonio Tempesta. Tempesta.
Etnik. Via Via Bartolomeo Perestrello Perestrello 51.
Coffee 51. Coffee Break by Break Etam by Cru. Etam Via Ludovico Cru. Via
Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni.
Tom Tom Sawyer Sawyer by Jef by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Via
Serbelloni.
Gabrio Serbelloni.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema
Impero,
Pasolini
Via
by
Acqua
Diavù.
Bullicante.
Former Cinema
Hostia Impero, by Via Nicola Acqua Verlato. Bullicante. Via Galeazzo
Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via
Herakut. Galeazzo Via Alessi. Capua 14.
Agostino Herakut. Iacurci. Via Capua Via Muzio 14. Oddi 6.
Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Tor Marancia
The
Tor
Big
Marancia
City Life scheme features 14-m
tall The murals Big City by 22 Life Italian scheme and features international
14-m tall street murals artists by 22 including Italian and Mr
Klevra, international Seth, Gaia street and artists Jerico. including The idea
was Mr Klevra, to transform Seth, the Gaia area's and blocks Jerico. of
flats into an open-air art museum. Via
The idea was to transform the area’s
Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.
blocks of flats into an open-air art
museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full
details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
20 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen,
Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen,
Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 21

ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS
PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO
CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.
Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and
Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.
Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free
entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours
of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For
private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26
December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.
Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private
behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it.
Part of the protohistorical section of the
Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the
restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101,
www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova,
paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.
09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00
15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com.
Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes
as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza
di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.
Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and
Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it.
08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the
Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino;
last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English
and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it.
Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages
on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of
Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it.
National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30-
19.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's
modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.
National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.
Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.
National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s
Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14
(EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700,
www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the
Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.
09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org.
National collection of 13th- to 16th-century
paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it.
Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture,
coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano,
including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
22 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A
16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by
Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org.
Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline
Museums are on show in a former power plant.
09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if
reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.
The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo
Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and
the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for
groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.
The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO Asilo
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of
free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end
of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.
Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A
collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s
collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and
clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.
Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior
booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum
dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and
the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it.
The collection, private apartment and studio of the
sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.
09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English
(book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it.
Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon
and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.
Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.00-
18.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages
exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.
Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035
www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323,
www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it
contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a
portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by
Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.
Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido
Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00
only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on
request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange
alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org.
Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio
de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.
Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it.
Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic
poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.
Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.
Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum
were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from
1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.
Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection,
including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.
09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 23

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF
THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY
OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS.
IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK
WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS
AND TO MAKE RESERVATION
BEFORE GOING.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international
contemporary artists and explores various media
including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli
Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary
design, photography, drawings and architecture
projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537,
www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty
apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.
0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual,
humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops,
exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei
Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist
art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes
and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S.
Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists
for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.
0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes
educational projects and residencies for young artists and
curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures,
workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.
0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically
for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via
di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
24 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and
international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18,
www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and
local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.
0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art
gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via
Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional
art works at affordable prices by artists working in
various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515,
www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international
visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858,
www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally
recognised and emerging artists who create works
specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13,
tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by
emerging and established Italian and international artists.
Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this
gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.
0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian
and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.
066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international
artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387,
www.galleriailsegno.com.

Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 25

MAXXI
amazes you,
always art
architecture
design
photography
cinema
26 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established
contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella
Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions
showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters
alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.
066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable
of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415,
www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international
artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church
dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei
Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and
contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe
Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian
artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.
Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and
emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for
a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza
Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists
working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art
and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418,
www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art
and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.
0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del
Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai
showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples
and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.
Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603,
www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important
contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1,
tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary
art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28,
tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art
gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary
art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di
Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary
art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.
0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international
contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern
and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122,
www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents
national and international artists and hosts multiple solo
exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475,
www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their
research and assists them in their projects to help them
emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri
43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship
between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows
of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni
10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional
work by young Italian and international artists. Via
della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary
art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range
of innovative national and international contemporary artists.
Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 27

where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON
Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna dedicates an exhibition to Antonietta Raphaël, Wanted in see Rome page • 30. December 2021 | 29

EXHIBITIONS
From 6 December museums
and archaeological sites in
Rome are open only to visitors
who show proof that they have
been vaccinated or recovered
in the last six months from
covid-19, under Italy's new socalled
Super Green Pass system.
Access will no longer be given
to those who provide a negative
covid test alone (as per the
“basic” Green Pass system which
changes after 5 December).
Most venues require advance
booking and the wearing of
masks is obligatory. Weekend
visits to the more popular sites
such as the Colosseum and
the Pantheon must be booked
at least one day ahead. For
visiting details check websites
in advance.
100 PRESEPI
5 DEC-9 JAN
This year’s edition of 100 Presepi,
Rome’s international Nativity crib
exhibition, takes place under the
colonnade of St Peter’s Square. A
firm fixture on Rome’s Christmas
calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts
some Nativity scenes from across
Italy and dozens of other countries.
In addition to contemporary
replicas of traditional 18th-century
Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and
100 Presepi at St Peter's Square.
Caravaggio and Artemisia exhibition at Palazzo Barberini.
19th-century Roman mangers, there
are modern versions made from
wood, papier-mâché and terracotta,
as well as unconventional materials
such as sand, rice and metal. Now
in its 46th year, 100 Presepi was
established in Rome in 1976 and
took place in Piazza del Popolo until
four years ago. Today it is organised
by the Vatican’s Pontifical Council
for the Promotion of the New
Evangelisation. For visiting details
see website, www.100presepi.it.
CARAVAGGIO AND ARTEMISIA
26 NOV-27 MARCH
Caravaggio and Artemisia: Judith’s
challenge. Violence and seduction in
painting between the 16th and 17th
centuries is the title of a new exhibition
at Palazzo Barberini. The show
takes as it starting point Judith who
decapitates Holofernes in Caravaggio’s
masterpiece which was rediscovered
70 years ago before being acquired
by the Italian state. Evaluating the
impact the powerful painting has had
on the art world over the centuries,
the exhibition comprises 31 works,
mostly large format, from important
national and international institutions,
including the Prado and the Thyssen
Museum in Madrid, the Capodimonte
Museum in Naples and Rome’s the
Borghese Gallery in Rome. The show
is curated by Maria Cristina Terzaghi
and features works by artists including
Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi,
Valentin de Boulogne, Pietro Novelli,
Mattia Preti and Giuseppe Vermiglio.
Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro
Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.
ANTONIETTA RAPHAEL
17 NOV-30 JAN
The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte
Moderna (GNAM) presents Through the
Looking Glass, an exhibition dedicated
to Antonietta Raphaël (Kaunas 1895
– Rome 1975), the Lithuanian- born
artist who was a leading exponent of
the Scuola Romana movement. The
show comprises paintings, sculptures
and works on paper, accompanied by
documents, family photographs, letters
30 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

and pages from her diaries. Also on
display is a selection of works by artist
Mario Mafai – her lifelong partner –
along with a specially created video
documentary. The gallery says the
exhibition’s title alludes to Raphaël’s
“ability to transform artistic practice
into a tool for investigating her own
inner world and evokes dreamlike
and imaginative dimensions in
which the female figure is the main
protagonist.” Curated by Giorgia Calò
and Alessandra Troncone, the show
is held in collaboration with the
Lithuanian Institute of Culture and
the embassy of Lithuania in Rome.
GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131,
www.lagallerianazionale.com.
KLIMT: LA SECESSIONE E
L’ITALIA
27 OCT-27 MARCH
Palazzo Braschi presents an
exhibition of paintings by Gustav
Klimt, including Portrait of a Lady,
which went missing for almost 23
years after its theft from a gallery in
Piacenza. The painting was stolen
in 1997 before being rediscovered in
the gallery’s garden, in mysterious
circumstances, in 2019. The works
on show feature some of the
Austrian artist’s masterpieces from
the Belvedere Museum in Vienna,
the Klimt Foundation and public
and private collections such as
the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights
among the paintings, sculptures
and drawings on display include
Judith I, Lady in White, Friends I (The
Klimt exhibition at Palazzo Braschi.
Sebastião-Salgado at MAXXI. Indiana Yawanawá, Stato di Acre, Brasile
2016.©-Sebastião Salgado Contrasto.
Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The
Bride. The exhibition focuses on the
artist’s relationship with Italy and
the influence he had on other artists
working in the country. Museo di
Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608,
www.museodiroma.it.
INFERNO
15 OCT-9 JAN
The Scuderie del Quirinale marks
the 700th anniversary of the death
of Dante Alighieri with an exhibition
based on the first book of The Divine
Comedy. The show comprises more
than 200 artworks on loan from
80 museums, public collections and
private collections from Italy, the
Vatican and across Europe. Inferno
documents hell-related iconography
from the Middle Ages to the present
day, in what is hailed as the first major
art exhibition dedicated to this theme.
Curated by Jean Clair, the show takes
visitors on a journey into the depths
of hell, as imagined by artists through
the centuries, accompanied by the
words of Dante. These visions range
from the tormented and nightmarish
to the romanticised, from Mediaeval
to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic
interpretations from the 20th century.
See review on page 3. Scuderie del
Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16,
www.scuderiequirinale.it.
SEBASTIAO SALGADO
1 OCT-13 FEB
Photojournalist Sebastião Salgado
provides a black and white
photographic journey through the
Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six
years capturing images of the forest,
the rivers, the mountains and the
people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s
national museum of 21st-century arts,
presents Salgado’s 200 photographs
against a soundscape of sounds -
recorded in the forests and created
by Jean-Michel Jarre – feauring the
rustling of trees, birdsong, the shrieks
of animals, and the roar of waterfalls.
The exhibition highlights the fragility
of this ecosystem, showing that in the
protected areas where the indigenous
communities live the forest has
suffered almost no damage. MAXXI,
Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
ALL ABOUT BANKSY:
EXHIBITION 2
5 MAY-9 JAN
Chiostro del Bramante presents
ALL about BANKSY, an exhibition
dedicated to the anonymous
British street artist whose satirical
murals are celebrated around the
world. The show, which follows
an earlier Banksy exhibition,
features about 250 artworks
from private collections. Chiostro
del Bramante, Via Arco della
Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.
chiostrodelbramante.it.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 31

ART NEWS
Tear Along the Dotted Line by Zerocalcare.
NETFLIX TOASTS SUCCESS OF ZEROCALCARE
Netflix is celebrating its gamble on Rome cartoonist
Michele Rech, better known as Zerocalcare, whose new
animated mini-series has become Italy’s most watched
show on the streaming platform. The series Tear Along
the Dotted Line (Strappare lungo i bordi in Italian) was
launched in mid-November in 190 countries around
the world, in various languages including English.
Netflix describes the six-part series as “offbeat,
irreverent”, and introduces it like this: “A cartoonist in
Rome with his armadillo-for-a-conscience reflects on his
path in life and a would-be love as he and his friends
travel outside the city.” The episodes, which each last
about 15 minutes, feature anecdotes, reflections and
flashbacks by Zerocalcare who credited Netflix with
giving him “absolute freedom” in the project. “A few
years ago I had the desire to try to tell a story not in
comics but in cartoons” – Zerocalacare said after the
premiere at the recent Rome Film Fest – “because it is
a more direct, more accessible language.”
In addition to writing and directing, Zerocalcare
narrated the animated series in his Roman dialect.
The linguistics have caused problems for some
Italians outside Rome, amid claims the show verges
on incomprehensible at times, leading to much debate
on social media. Zerocalcare, from the Rebibbia
suburb, is not perturbed by the controversy. “For me,
Romanesco is the language of the comfort zone”, he
said at the show’s premiere. “I speak more Romanesco
in interviews than with my mother” – he noted – “not
because I have to flaunt it but because it’s a question of
my identity, it makes me feel entrenched in my fort.”
CASA BALLA TO STAY OPEN IN 2022
Rome celebrates the 150th anniversary of the birth of
the Italian painter and Futurist master Giacomo Balla
by opening his former home to the public for the first
time, after being closed up for 30 years. Casa Balla, the
painter’s kaleidoscopic vision of art and colour on Via
Oslavia, opened in June with visits scheduled to end in
December. However due to popular demand and sellout
tours, it has been decided that Casa Balla is to stay
open to the public throughout 2022.
Born in Turin in 1871, Balla lived and worked in his
extraordinary Roman home from 1929 until his death
in 1958. His daughters Luce and Elica, also painters,
stayed living in the house until the 1990s. The opening
of Casa Balla is thanks to a collaboration between
MAXXI, the National Museum of 21st-Century Arts,
and Rome’s special superintendence of Archaeology,
Fine Arts and Landscape, with the support of the
Italian culture ministry and the Bank of Italy.
Bartolomeo Pietromarchi, MAXXI art director and
curator of the project explains: “The house with
its decorations, furniture, works of art expresses the
artist’s personality in all its forms and represents one
of his greatest masterpieces.” Reservations are required
and can be made via MAXXI website, www.maxxi.it.
See also Inferno review page 3.
Casa Balla, former home of Giacomo Balla, on Via Oslavia 39/B.
SHELLEY IN ROME
The Keat-Shelley House presents a video story called
Shelley in Rome, directed by Giulio Boato and produced by
313 films. The film, premiered on 1 December, provides a
“psychogeographical take” on Percy Bysshe Shelley’s time
in Rome, exploring the poet’s relationship with the city
and Roman locations that inspired his poetry. The video
offers “evocative visuals and three-dimensional audio” and
the narration of the story revolves around Shelley’s three
masterpieces inspired by his time in Rome: Prometheus
Unbound, The Cenci and Adonais, his elegy on the death
of his friend John Keats. For details see the Keats-Shelley
website, www.ksh.roma.it.
Andy Devane
32 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

OPERA
MILAN
MACBETH
BY GIUSEPPE VERDI
7-29 DEC
Verdi’s Macbeth conducted by
Riccardo Chailly opens La Scala’s
new season. The new production
for Milan’s opera house is by
director Davide Livermore. Anna
Netrebko sings Lady Macbeth,
Luca Salsi Macbeth, Francesco Meli
Macduff and Ildar Abdrazakov
as Banquo. Teatro alla Scala,
Via Filodrammatici 2, www.
teatroallascala.org.
I CAPULETTI E I MONTECCHI
BY VINCENZO BELLINI
18 JAN-2 FEB
Evelin Pidò conducts a new
production of Bellini’s version of
Romeo and Juliet, directed by Adrian
Noble, who was the head of the Royal
Shakespeare Company until 2003.
This is Noble’s debut at La Scala.
Marianne Crebassa sings Romeo
and Lisette Oropesa Giulietta. Bellini
composed the opera in 1830 for the
Venice Carnival and given that he
had little over a month to deliver the
composition he used material from
Zaira, his fifth opera which had been
a flop in Parma the previous year.
I Capuletti e i Montecchi became
an immediate success and made
Bellini’s reputation. Teatro alla
Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.
teatroallascala.org.
ROME
ACQUAPROFONDA
3-7 DEC
A new opera with music by
Giovanni Solima and the libretto
by Giancarlo De Cataldo. The
opera, about the pollution of the
sea, is dedicated to young children
and has been commissioned by the
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and
the Teatro Sociale di Como as part
of the Progetto Opera Domani.
Conducted by Carlo Donadio and
directed by Luis Ernesto Donas.
Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.
operaroma.it.
TOSCA
BY PUCCINI
4-12 DEC
Alessandro Talevi’s production
of Tosca returns to the Rome
Opera House, conducted by Paolo
Arrivabeni, with Saioa Hernandez
as Tosca, Vittorio Grigolo as
Cavaradossi, Roberto Frontali
as Scarpia. Teatro dell’Opera di
Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli,
www.operaroma.it.
KAT’A KABANOVA
BY JANACEK
18-27 JAN
This is the first time that Janacek’s
opera has been performed at
Teatro Costanzi, in a co-production
with the Royal Opera House. It is
conducted by David Robertson and
directed by Richard Jones who has
directed five Royal Opera House
productions and is considered
one of the best British opera and
theatre directors. The opera will
be sung in Czech with Italian
and English surtitles. It tells the
story of a woman living in a small
bigoted community. She is trapped
in a loveless marriage, bullied by
her mother-in-law and spied on by
her neighbours, as she searches for
something better. Teatro dell’Opera
di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli,
www.operaroma.it.
Janacek's Katya Kabanova, performed at the Royal Opera House in 2019, debuts at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma in January.
34 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Classical
Lang Lang is back touring after his tendonitis in 2017.
ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA
ROMANA
BICENTENARY CONCERT
4 DEC
Daniele Gatti conducts the Orchestra
Mozart for the Accademia’s 200th
anniversary concert. Music by
Rossini, Stravinsky, Aperchis
(premiere commissioned by the
Filarmonica) and Mozart. Rossini
was an honorary member of the
fledgling academy and Stravinsky
taught at the Filarmonica. Teatro
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano
17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
FESTA FILARMONICA
8 DEC
The Accademia S. Cecilia and the
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma join
with the Accademia Filarmonica
Romana to mark its 200th
anniversary. Music by Rossini.
Sgambati, Casella, Mendelssohn,
Schubert and Stranvinsky. Teatro
Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.
filarmonicaromana.org.
MUSICA E LETTERTURA
MORPHE, LA FORMA DEL MONDO
10 DEC
Lang Lang is back touring
after his tendonitis in 2017.
Cultural and social change, from
Americanisation to industrialisation.
Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www.
filarmonicaromana.org.
PIETRO DE MARIA
16 DEC
Pianist Pietro de Maria plays music
by Beethoven, Sgambati and Liszt.
Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina,
www.filarmonicaromana.org.
ASSOLI VI
FRANCESCO GRANATA
19 DEC
The Assoli series of concerts are
dedicated to contemporary music.
This season the opening concert of
the series is dedicated to music by
Fabio Vacchi, performed by pianist
Francesco Granata. Other concerts
in the series will be on 28 Jan, 25
Feb, 1 April, 8 April, 20 May. Sala
Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www.
filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA
LANG LANG IN RECITAL
6 DEC
Lang Lang will play music by
Schumman and Bach’s Goldberg
Variations. The star pianist had
severe tendonitis in 2017 and had
to take a break from his heavy
schedule of concerts. He is back
with performances in Jan, March
and April in Europe and the USA.
His recording of the Goldberg
Variations in 2020 did not get a
good review in The Guardian: “There
are flashes of perfectly weighted,
stylistically appropriate playing, but
too much of Lang’s performances
seems to squeeze all the energy
out of the music, with tempi that
are achingly slow and phrasing that
is so mannered it sometimes seems
more appropriate for Rachmaninov
than Bach.” Auditorium Parco della
Musica, Via P de Coubertin 36,
www.santacecilia.it.
36 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

MARCUS STENZ
ANDREI KOROBEINIKOV
10 DEC
Marcus Stenz conducts the S.
Cecilia Orchestra and pianist Andrei
Korobeinikov performing music by
Debussy, Rachmaninov, Busoni and
Scriabin. Auditorium Parco della
Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36,
www.santacecilia.it.
FAIRY TALES IN MUSIC 1
16-18 DEC
This series of concerts performs
Tchaikovsky’s Snow Maiden,
conducted by Stanislav Kochanovsky,
with the mezzosoprano Agunda
Kulaeva, tenor Alexander Mikhailov
and narrator Milena Vukotic.
Auditorium Parco della Musica,
Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.
santacecilia.it.
CARUSO 100
22 DEC
To celebrate the 100th anniversary
of the great tenor’s death in Naples.
Music by Donizetti, Gounod, Bizet,
Verdi, Puccini, Leoncavallo, sung
by the tenor Javier Camarena.
Auditorium Parco della Musica,
Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.
santacecilia.it.
INSTITUZIONE
DEI CONCERTI
UNIVERSITARIO
VALENTINA LISITSA
4 DEC
Valentina Lisitsa, who is among
the best known pianists to perform
on YouTube (aka as the Queen of
Rachmaninoff), debuts in Rome
with a programme of music by
Rachmaninoff and Chopin. She has
recently also performed in Palermo.
Aula Magna Sapienza, Piazziale
Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.
SAINT-SAENS AND FRIENDS
14 DEC
Steven Isserlis violin and pianist
Connie Shih mark the 100th
anniversary of the composer’s
death with two of his violin and
piano concertos, as well as music
by his contemporaries. Aula Magna
Sapienza, Piazziale Aldo Moro,
www.concertiiuc.it.
ZLATOMIR FUNG
18 DEC
Cellist Zlatomir Fung debuts at
the IUC with Richard Fu piano,
performing music by David
Popper, Schubert, Salonen Knock
and Schostakovich. Fung won the
Tchaikovsky Prize in 2019. Aula
Magna Sapienza, Piazziale Aldo
Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.
Valentina Lisitsa is sometimes known as the Queen of Rachmaninoff because of her YouTube success.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 37

DANCE
Giuliano Peparini's sumptuous adaptation of The Nutcracker at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.
MILAN
TEATRO ALLA SCALA
LA BAYADERE RUDOLF NUREYEV
15 DEC-8 JAN
This ballet, which Nureyev made his
own, opens the new season at La
Scala, with new sets and costumes
by Luisa Spinatelli. It is a return
to purity of classical ballet with the
whole of La Scala Ballet Company
on stage and the participation of
some of the ballet school’s students.
Kevin Rhodes is conducting. Teatro
alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2,
www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
LO SCHIACCIANOCI
19 DEC-2 JAN
This is Guiliano Peparini’s
sumptuous adaptation of the old
Christmas favourite, with dancers
Alessandra Amato, Susanna Salvi,
Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza
in the main roles. Teatro dell’Opera
di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli,
www.operadiroma.it.
TEATRO OLIMPICO
LO SCHIACCIANOCI
RUSSIAN CLASSICAL BALLET
5-7 DEC
The Russian Classical Ballet was
formed in Moscow in 2005 to
promote the traditions of classical
Russian ballet. It has chosen to
perform one of the great traditional
Christmas ballets, in classical style.
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da
Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.
38 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

A FOOTBALL GAME
UNLIKE ANY OTHER
GET YOUR
TICKETS
MOBILE PHONE
asroma.com/en/ticketing
OR SIMPLY SCAN THIS CODE
WITH YOUR PHONE
ON YOUR
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 39

classical
classical
The following is a list of the main musical
associations in Rome but it is not a definitive
list of all the music that is available in the city.
The following is a list of the main musical
There are also concerts in many of the
associations in Rome but it is not a definitive
churches and sometimes in the museums.
list of all the music that is available in the city.
There are also concerts in many of the
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della
churches and sometimes in the museums.
Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
Auditorium Auditorium Parco della Conciliazione, Musica, Viale Via P. de della
Coubertin Conciliazione 30, www.auditorium.com
4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
Accademia Auditorium Filarmonica Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale Teatro P. de
Olimpico, Coubertin Piazza 30, www.auditorium.com
Gentile da Fabriano 17,
www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro
starts on 15 Oct
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17,
Accademia www.filarmonicaromana.org. S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. The new season All
concerts starts at on Auditorium 15 Oct Parco della Musica. The
new
Accademia
season starts
S.
on 5
Cecilia,
Oct
www.santacecilia.it. All
Istituzione concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco dei Concerti, della Musica. Aula The
Magna, new Università season starts la Sapienza, on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it
Oratorio Istituzione del Gonfalone, Universitaria Via del dei Gonfalone Concerti, 32a, Aula
www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
RomeConcerts, Oratorio del Methodist Gonfalone, Church, Via del Piazza Gonfalone Ponte 32a,
S. Angelo, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
www.romeconcerts.it
Roma RomeConcerts, Sinfonietta, Methodist Auditorium Church, Ennio Morricone, Piazza Ponte
Torvergata, S. Angelo, www.romasinfonietta.com
www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some Auditorium concerts Ennio are at Morricone, Teatro
Palladium, Torvergata, Piazza www.romasinfonietta.com
Bartolomeo Romano 8,
teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, Roma Tre Orchestra, some while concerts others are are at Teatro
the Aula Palladium, Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Bartolomeo Filosofia Romano Lingue, 8,
Universita teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze others 234, are at
www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue,
There
Universita
are often
Roma
concerts,
Tre,
festivals
Via Ostienze
and opera
234,
recitals
www.r30.org
in several churches in Rome.
All
There
Saints'
are
Anglican
often concerts,
Church, Via
festivals
Babuino
and
153,
opera
www.allsaintsrome.org
recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153,
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S.
www.allsaintsrome.org
Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S.
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
St Paul's Oratorio Within del Caravita, the Walls, Via Via della Nazionale Caravita and 7 the
corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the
S. Agnese
corner of
in
Via
Agone,
Nazionale,
Sagrestia
www.stpaulsrome.it
del Borromini,
Piazza Navona
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini,
Palazzo Piazza Doria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called
Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout
the year. Palazzo There Doria is a concert, Pamphilj a tour hosts of the a series museum called
and Opera dinner Serenades afterwards. by Night Via with del Dinner Corso throughout 305,
www.doriapamphilj.com
the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum
and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305,
www.doriapamphilj.com
5040 | Oct | December 2018 • Wanted 2021 • in Wanted Rome in Rome
MUSIC MUSIC
THEATRE
CINEMA
CINEMA
VENUES
MUSIC
THEATRE
CINEMA
DANCE
OPERA
cinema
cinema
The following cinemas show movies in English
or original language, and sometimes foreign
film The festivals. following See cinemas Wanted show in Rome movies website in English for
weekly or original updates. language, and sometimes foreign
film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for
Adriano,
weekly
Piazza
updates.
Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.
0686391361
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
Casa
Barberini,
del Cinema,
Piazza
Largo Marcello
Barberini
Mastroianni
24-26,
1,
tel.
tel.
0686391361
06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1,
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.
tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
068553485
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.
068553485
066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
066861068
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.
Nuovo
066861068
Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Odeon,
Nuovo
Piazza
Sacher,
Stefano
Largo
Jacini
Ascianghi
22, tel.
1,
0686391361
tel. 065818116
Space Odeon, Moderno, Piazza Stefano Piazza della Jacini Repubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 44, tel.
06892111
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.
Space 06892111 Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini
3-5, tel. 06892111
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini
3-5, tel. 06892111

d
p
p
38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017
tTeatro
06684000314, ww
T
Teatro Belli,
06684000314, ww
ww
T
Teatro
ww
Brancaccio,
ww
T
Teatro ww Ghione,
ww
T
Teatro ww
06684000311, ww
T
06684000311, ww

WANTED
inROME
junior
Holiday Writing from
St. Stephen’s School
The Creative Writing and Visual Arts Classes at St.
Stephen’s understand the beautiful chiaroscuro that
occurs when the brightest lights shine during the
darkest nights. Teachers Ms Egan, Ms Fedich, and
Ms Guerra hope that you will enjoy these works by
students, celebrating the wonders of the season and
the ways in which we continue to light our paths
through darkness, literal and metaphorical.
A Collaboration by Natalie S. and Ilaria C., Grade 12
Pulp Serenity
The hill was plastered with bright orange trees,
peeling tambourines like skins of mandarins.
The wind rumbled the trees and ruffled the waves.
I foraged for you.
Esmeralda I., Grade 9
Snow lights
Snowflakes were falling down on the frozen lake covered
with frost, creating a soft and white carpet. You could hear
the laughter of the children in the distance that got lower
and lower and farther as the sun went down over the vast
hills. You could still hear the Christmas carols of the stalls
not far from there and the rustle of the skates of those
who skated on the lake, creating intertwined lines on the
white carpet that covered the majestic lake. The chestnut
smell became lighter and lighter as the ovens were turned
off and the windows of the houses were closed and the
only ones remaining outside under the night sky were
those full of snow, looking at the snowflakes covering even
the flashing colored lights that covered every corner and
wall that kept the city alive.
The fire of this year burning out, creating a blazing next
year,
A celebration filled with the next chapter of our lives,
A time of joy and of new beginnings, the new year’s
celebration.
Uma S., Grade 10
The end of another year
Lights, everywhere.
Decorated on the balconies of apartments.
On the door frames, and windows of houses.
Constantino M., Grade 10
A New Year
The evergreen leaves forever stuck to the ground,
Frozen branches stiffly swaying in the icy wind,
As the match brings flame to the dry logs inside,
a pink warm scent flows through the home.
Torn paper and ribbons left behind by eager children
everywhere,
Cold white snow falling from the gray cool sky,
A picture perfect moment during the years first and final
frost,
with the wheel of the world turning again to a new year.
Illustration by Milena A., Grade 12.
42 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Illuminating the tiny cracks and crevices of even the
darkest spaces.
Sparkling stars,
A grand mystical, moon, lighting the way
for the ones who thrive at night.
Laughter, breaking across the world.
In warm houses,
filled with the sweet and savory aroma of spices and
confectionary dishes.
Giggling children,
crowding the streets,
Playing with fire.
Small, sizzling sparklers, in the little hands of kids.
Big fireworks in the hands of the elders.
Pink, purple, orange, blue.
Every color and every hue.
Loud music in the streets,
the melodies and tunes from singers, and from those who
think that they are singing.
Basking in the snugness of familial, familiar love.
Bathing in the warmth of the quiet, crackling, fireplace.
Eating salty, sugary treats until you lose fervor, and your
stomach trembles.
Seeing smiling faces, and those same twinkling stars
which decorate the night sky, in their eyes.
Those few blissful days make up for those many months
in isolation.
Unable to see our loved ones, because of the raging
dangers of the outside world.
Tears forming in your eyes,
as the glee engulfs you and makes you feel light.
Like lying on a delicate cloud of pure joy.
The sore ache in your stomach keeps that memory fresh
for days.
Love, so much love.
Why can’t it always be like this?
Diwali, Hanukkah, Christmas,
or any other celebration which you commemorate,
wherever in the world it be;
you will surely feel the beauty and true essence of the
Holidays.
Riccardo C., Grade 10
Taciturn joy
The sun, ever-present in the nooks and crannies between
the buildings,
shining its gold on lunging leaves and piercingly red
petals.
Only tainting some parts of the sky,
Illustration by Esma G., Grade 11.
something so beautiful it closes your throat up as if you
were about to cry,
left to dwell on the melancholies of lives you never lived.
What a lucky little secret part of the world that is.
The lucky blind muse opened my eyes to it.
Christmas-y cute lil thing:
A little green world, developed on a branch of a christmas
tree.
Enveloped in silence it seems to be, yet everything on it
moves, talks and sings.
They even have carols to celebrate. And sure,
squirrels don’t really have a voice, but all that birds do
is chant.
That really makes me think, do they sit on a little table,
ants, worms and all, exchanging gifts and feeling that
warmth only family can give?
Asia M., Grade 10
The people walking down the roads
Became far less and less,
As December spreads its icy breath
Amongst the city houses, penetrating the barrier of the
chimneys
That crack and extinguish under its frigid grasp.
The buildings, and streets, now coated white
Glimmer underneath the pale moonlight,
Whilst the town’s roads are adorned with sparkling bulbs,
And colorful tents that line the sidewalks,
Offering mulled wine, hot cider vinegar, and candied
treats for the children.
The festivities have begun in december’s last days,
And the Christmas tree is decked with evergreen leaves,
Sparkling red glass balls, and twinkling lights.
It stands tall, above all,
those who are lost searching for their way home,
those who have found the pieces of themselves broken,
those who have retrieved their butchered hearts, bloody
and cold
They wander adrift in the still cold of December's farewell
snow.
WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists
Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in
Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations.
Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.
Wanted in Rome • December 2021 | 43

TEATRO NAZIONALE
DECEMBER 4 -5
GIOVANNI SOLLIMA
Acquaprofonda
CONDUCTOR CARLO DONADIO
DIRECTOR LUIS ERNESTO DOÑAS
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA
WITH THE PARTECIPATION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA
DI ROMA SCHOLA CANTORUM
NEW PRODUCTION, COMMISSION AND COPRODUCTION
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
AND ASLICO/TEATRO SOCIALE DI COMO – PROGETTO OPERA DOMANI
TEATRO COSTANZI
DECEMBER 4 - 12
GIACOMO PUCCINI
Tosca
CONDUCTOR PAOLO ARRIVABENI
DIRECTOR ALESSANDRO TALEVI
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS
WITH THE PARTECIPATION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
SCUOLA DI CANTO CORALE
A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
TEATRO COSTANZI
DECEMBER 19 -
JANUARY 2
PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKIJ
The nutcracker
CONDUCTOR NIR KABARETTI
CHOREOGRAPHER GIULIANO PEPARINI
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ÉTOILES, PRINCIPAL DANCERS,
SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET
WITH THE PARTECIPATION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
BALLET SCHOOL
A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo
operaroma.it
FOUNDERS PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS PATRONS

dance
dance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,
Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,
17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78,
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano
www.teatrovascello.it
17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78,
www.teatrovascello.it
opera
opera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,
Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma,
Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
p
pop rock
rock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and
rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and
Alexanderplatz, rock groups to Via jazz Ostia and acoustic 9, tel. 0683775604 gigs.
www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Angelo Alexanderplatz, Mai Altrove, Via Ostia Via 9, tel. delle 0683775604 Terme di
Caracalla www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
55, www.angelomai.org
Atlantico, Angelo Mai Viale Altrove, dell’Oceano Via Atlantico delle Terme 271d, di
tel. Caracalla 065915727, 55, www.angelomai.org
www.atlanticoroma.it
Auditorium Atlantico, Viale Parco dell’Oceano della Musica, Atlantico Viale 271d, P. de
Coubertin, tel. 065915727, tel. 06892982, www.atlanticoroma.it
www.auditorium.com
Casa Auditorium del Jazz, Parco Viale di della Porta Musica, Ardeatina Viale 55, P. tel. de
06704731, Coubertin, www.casajazz.it
tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.
06704731, www.casajazz.it
theatre
theatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.
06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875,
06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875,
Teatro
www.teatrobelli.it
Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231
www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231
Teatro www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294
www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294
Teatro www.teatroghione.it
India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.
06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.
06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.
0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Live Lanificio Alcazar, 159, Via Via Cardinale Pietralata Merry del 159, Val tel. 14,
tel. 0641780081, 065810388, www.lanificio159.com
www.livealcazar.com
Monk Live Alcazar, Club, Via Via Cardinale Giuseppe Merry Mirri del 35, Val 14, tel.
0664850987, tel. 065810388, www.monkroma.it
www.livealcazar.com
PalaLottomatica, Monk Club, Via Piazzale Giuseppe dello Mirri Sport 35, 1, tel. tel.
06540901, 0664850987, www.palalottomatica.it
www.monkroma.it
Rock PalaLottomatica, in Roma, Via Piazzale Appia dello Nuova Sport 1245, 1, tel. tel.
06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.
0669925616, 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via
0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via
Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.
063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17,
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432,
tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432
Teatro
www.teatrosangenesio.it
Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711,
Teatro www.ilsistina.it Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031
www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78,
Teatro tel. 065898031, Vittoria, www.teatrovascello.it
Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel.
065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10,
tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Wanted 51 in | Rome Oct 2018 • December • Wanted 2021 in Rome | 45

46 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE
PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES
Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.
It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape.
The cake is brushed with a saffron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior.
Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return
of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.
Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more diffused festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of
the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.
However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will fill your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but
you could also add dried figs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it
makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.
PANGIALLO
80g almonds
80g hazelnuts
80g walnuts
40g pistachios
100g sultanas
Ingredients
40g mixed candied fruit
100g honey
100g dark chocolate
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Grated zest of 1 orange
80g flour 00
FOR THE GLAZE
2 small sachets of saffron (2 x 0.1g bags)
2 tbsp flour 00
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
By Kate Zagorski
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is
melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl.
Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and
continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the flour and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form
a compact dough.
Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put
2 tablespoons of flour into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and saffron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick,
creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until
the outer crust is firm.
Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome:
ten of our favourites that also serve food
Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason
we have put together a definitive list
Brylla – Trieste
Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart
idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption,
the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The
outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of
anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of
different grapes, from a more modest wine to a
Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass,
half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu
too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel.
0685355669.
Fafiuché – Monti
Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter
from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the
wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont
wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised
meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied
by preserves. If you are lucky you might be
able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via
della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.
Litro – Monteverde
Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it:
the location is great with a lovely outdoor space.
The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine
list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made
with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other
wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli
Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.
Sogno Autarchico – Prati
Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly
nice indoors – the room is crammed with a
large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this
wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks
to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at
Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts
of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via
Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.
Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo
Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden
amongst an array of fast food eateries with
outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about
wines, and also about cooking. As well as other
delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega
octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra
(Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek.
Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.
Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio
Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana
and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne
and sparkling wines available, but there are also
a great number of still wines to choose from. We
recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak
tartare, which is one of the best around. All the
dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami,
and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S.
Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.
La Barrique – Monti
At this very popular bar you can have an
enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden
tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the
many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly
excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They
also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose
between slightly cheaper wines or some rather
special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer,
but there’s always something tasty. Via del
Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.
Il Goccetto – Historical centre
An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult
spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of
the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for
an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses
which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy
and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between
a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian
bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one
of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi
Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.
Al Vino al Vino – Monti
While there might not always be an enthusiastic
and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit.
The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who
watches football games on the television while
preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately
these are the only things on the menu,
other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana.
We recommend taking your glass outside and
watching passersby. There is a good selection of
wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel.
06485803.
Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume
Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and
at this respectable age has certainly become one
of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a
little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and
an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish,
crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda
and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci,
buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is
filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar.
Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.
www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations
American International Club of Rome
tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome
tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy
britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome
canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group,
tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome
ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution
Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR
paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
Books
The following bookshops and libraries have books
in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637
www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23,
tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International
Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2,
tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community)
tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org
Bible Baptist Church
Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593,
www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00
Christian Science Services
Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425
Church of All Nations
Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464
Church of Sweden
Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15
(Swedish)
International Women’s Club of Rome
tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it
Irish Club of Rome
irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org
Luncheon Club of Rome
tel. 3338466820
Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums
tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org
Professional Woman’s Association
www.pwarome.org
United Nations Women’s Guild
tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org,
www.unwgrome.multiply.com
Welcome Neighbor
tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it,
www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)
Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484
Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)
Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950,
www.libreriaspagnola.it
Open Door Bookshop
(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)
Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478,
www.books-in-italy.com
Otherwise
Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825,
www.otherwisebookshop.com
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian
South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093,
North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it
International Central Gospel Church
Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695
International Christian Fellowship
Via Guido Castelnuovo 28,
tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00
Jewish Community
Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061
Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas
Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761
Lutheran Church
Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70,
tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church
Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314,
Sunday Service 10.30
50 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)
Via dei SS. Quattro 1,
tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00
Roma Baptist Church
Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35,
tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service
10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)
Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara
Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091
Rome International Church
Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org
Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)
Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627,
Sunday service 11.00
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org,
Sunday service 11.00
Support groups
Alcoholics Anonymous
tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com
Archè
(HIV+children and their families)
tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it
Associazione Centro Astalli
(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a,
tel. 0669700306
Associazione Ryder Italia
(Support for cancer patients and their families)
tel. 065349622/06582045580,
www.ryderitalia.it
Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment)
tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it
Caritas soup kitchen
(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30,
tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily
Caritas foreigners’ support centre
Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554
Caritas hostel
Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235
Caritas legal assistance
Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369
Celebrate Recovery Christian group
tel. 3381675680
Transport
• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram)
tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it
• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it
• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it
• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157-
066645-064994
• Traffic info tel. 1518
• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021,
www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359,
Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic),
Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827,
www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00,
Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339,
Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)
St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121,
Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic),
Via di Monserrato 45,
tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen
Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327,
17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat
Information line for disabled
tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli,
tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund
(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children),
tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com,
www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous
tel. 064743772
Salvation Army
(Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”
Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime
(Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus
(Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed)
tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in
Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
• Fire brigade tel. 115
• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999
• Police tel. 113
• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
52 | December 2021 • Wanted in Rome