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ISSUE 66

27TH SEPTEMBER 2021

AJOY SAHU INTERVIEW . MODEL COACH ADVICE . UNDERRATED SNEAKER BUYS . DES O CONNORS MODELS

PAUL COSTELLOE . BORA AKSU . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MARK FAST . TIGER OF SWEDEN . AADNEVIK . LFW

THE LFW ISSUE

RRP £9.99


LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS

Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk

Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk

Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk

Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino

Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra

Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek

Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas

Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft, Thomas

Woods

Advertising inquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk

Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit

Contributors: Brechó Babado Fashion, Negah Anna, Edien Black, Wilson Vitorino, Latta Pathak, Karolina

Nowak, Janete Zenlinda, Tatiana Porembova Bridal, Hali London, Tarz London, Shoes by Larisa, Saint

Beth, Honey V Tiaras Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, Crystal Crafts Bouquets, Lahore Karahi Tooting, Alissa

Schrag, Dekaya Hewlett, Lois J Elise, Юлия Джемова, Ariadna Golubeva, Vera Lipunova, Artem Sigaev,

Saveliy Molchanov, Габриэль Оганян, Sofia Somova, Zarina And Marina Дарья Шевченко, Eva Cass,

Josephine Landry, Alison Leitao, Emma Lynch, Anne Marie Costantino, Julia McDonough, Charis

Michelsen, Ivie Akira, Ayla Imogen, Lacey Rae, Lara Jane, Scarlett, Stephany Ioana, Tylda, Vivienne

Monique, Ysabella Kristeen, Anne Wilkinson, Be Unique Be You, Ram Eagle, Elena Berezhnova, Maria

Konakova, Anastasia Gorishna, Enplanafro, Sarah Lily, Liudka, Ozoda Muminova, Kirsty Spence, Pawel

Majewski, Sandra Salamon, Klaudia Kotlarz, Katarzyna Kriger, Nikolina Holuk, Jagoda Biegala, Victoria

Tadej, Marta Chrostowska, Anna Guzak, Nell Malczuk

Special thanks to Ajoy Sahu, Dyelog PR, and Maxine Griffiths

Interested in working with us?

We currently have internships available in the following positions:

Staff Writers

Staff Illustrator

Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors

Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission

from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors

and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene

PAGE 1


CONTENTS

VISUALS

Bora Aksu

Edward Crutchley

Atelier Tammam

Paul Costello Presentation

No Flow Do Babad (Editorial)

Two Weddings (Cover Editorial)

Sirens (Editorial)

New Faces

Portfolio Piece: Red Children

Mark Fast

Tiger of Sweden

Aadnevik

Style (Conscious) Guide: Inspired

by LFW

Gowns N' Roses - Be Unique Be You

1 1

6

10

12

14

16

21

34

43

49

55

59

62

66

70

Africa Fashion Awards: Kande

Collection

La Dama Lingerie

Miss Polski UK & Ireland

WORDS

An Exploration into Our

Emotional Attachment to Clothes

Interview: Ajoy Sahu

Walk Talk: The Ins and Outs of

Model Training with Maxine

Griffiths

Beauty Expert, Author, and

Actress, Charis Michelsen Shares

How to Utilise the Hottest

Runway Fashion and Makeup

Trends to Maximise your Physical

Appeal

Alexander McQueen Romantic

Darkness

Underated Sneakers That You

Need for the Upcoming Season

112

114

116

4

15

30

51

67

81

U R Not Ur Emotions (Editorial)

Beauty Veil (Editorial)

Des O'Connors

Best of Both Boutique

83

89

94

102

Des O'Connors Live Catwalk

Auditions

Your Style Horoscope

The Most Iconic Supermodels of

All Time

93

104

118

London Accessory Week

108

The Big Question

121


Editor's

letter

LFW is back, back, back again! And this

time, we actually mean it. When we say

we were excited to get back to going to

shows, it’s like saying the Pope might

believe in God a little bit. In other

words, it’s just about the

understatement of the year.

every season, there are still things going

on all the time. That’s part of the fun of

living in London as a fashion fan! Make

sure to check those out: they might not

enjoy the same level of publicity and

hype, but small designers still have a lot

to say.

And if you doubted it at all, you

might not have seen the images from

the recent Met Gala. Everyone’s been

talking about AOC wearing THAT ‘tax

the rich’ dress – proof, if any was

needed, that fashion can be as

political as any creative discipline.

We have some live coverage from

events this issue, and we’ll bring you

even more in our next issue as well –

because there’s just too much goodness

to restrict it to the page count we’re

allowed! That includes designer

interviews and lots of gorgeous

photographs from our in-house team,

Fil, Ian, and MJ.

We’ve got some of the latest shows from

before fashion week for you as well:

even though the eyes of the world may

turn on our capital for a few days

Talking of having a lot to say, this issue

we explore the history of a dearly

departed designer whose collections

always reflected how he felt about the

world around him: Alexander McQueen.

You might wonder why we spend so

much time looking into the history of

fashion, when there's so much newness

happening all the time...

But, as we’ll see, fashion is much more

than a way of dressing – it’s a way to

interface with the world, expressing

yourself and your ideals.

We’ve plenty of inspiring looks

served up for you this issue, so get

stuck in and start fantasising about

your new post-lockdown wardrobe

(and let’s see if we really ARE postlockdown…

but that’s a whole other

topic!). As you do, consider what

your clothes can say to the world –

and remember that if you want to

wear your heart on your sleeve,

there’s no better way than to insist on

clothing that is both fashionable and

sustainable.

Enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

PAGE 3


LONDON RUNWAY

AN EXPLORATION INTO OUR

EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT

TO CLOTHES

This issue, Katie Abson explores our

attachment to clothes and why letting

them go is so hard.

We all have that one item of clothing

that we just can’t let go of, no matter

how old, damaged, or dated. Even if

we know we’ll never wear it again –

we don’t have the heart to say

goodbye. Perhaps it’s the shirt we

wore on our first day of university.

Or maybe it’s an ex’s hoodie that still

smells faintly of their aftershave. We

hold on to christening dresses,

wedding gowns, leaver’s day

jumpers, and, theoretically, we’ll

never wear these pieces again. Some

of them might not even fit us

anymore. So, why do we hold on to

them? Why do we emotionally attach

ourselves to clothes? Why are they

so important to us?

We constantly revamp our

wardrobes to suit our evolving style

and latest trends, but most of us

simply don’t have the storage space

to keep every item of clothing we

purchase throughout the course of

our lives. The dreaded clear-out is a

must, particularly with the changing

seasons. It can be a great way to sell

clothes or donate to charity and to

clear space for our next fashion

season. Although the process can be

freeing and therapeutic, it can

equally be exhausting. Selecting

items to donate or throw away can

be painful, particularly when we feel

a certain attachment to them.

Memories, good and bad, are woven

into the fabric of our clothes, and

parting with a pair of beloved jeans

bought on holiday half a decade ago

can trigger an upsetting response,

despite how worn-out they are.

Because, to some people, it feels like

saying goodbye to that memory or

that part of their lives. When in

reality, they are just a pair of jeans

that are taking up space.

This response, although somewhat

seemingly irrational, is

psychologically very natural.

Studies have shown that our

emotional attachment to clothes

develops early in our childhood. As

early as the age of two, we may not

understand the concept of

ownership, but we certainly feel it.

This evolves into attachment, and

emotions such as jealousy and rage

can be felt in babies when that

object is taken away or given to

someone else. In our teenage years,

possessions begin to expand into a

sense of self and can help boost

self-esteem when confidence

begins to dwindle. As adults,

clothing can become an extension

of ourselves as we begin to

establish our personal style and the

way we present ourselves. Loss of

such items that we associate with

our sense of self can ignite pain

and unhappiness, our attachment

turning into an obsession with

finding what is lost. We are

psychologically wired to claim

objects as our own, later

establishing meaning behind what

belongs to us.

The same goes for holding onto

items once belonging to another

person. If that person is no longer

around or accessible to us, it can

feel as though we are keeping part

of that person with us in the

present day. Our senses are tuned

into clothing, such as touch and

smell, and being able to physically

touch something previously owned

by someone we loved can be the

closest thing we still have to them.

We feel connected to them in some

PAGE 4


LONDON RUNWAY

sort of way. When you really think

about it, it’s perfectly normal to want

to keep possession of such beloved

items.

Family heirlooms that pass through

generations have associations to people

we have never met formally in this

lifetime, but serve to provide us with a

connection to previous family

members. These heirlooms may come

from a time of war, struggle, love or

different countries. Textiles from a

certain time period and clothing made

by brands that no longer exist make us

cherish the item more, as we possess

something that cannot be purchased

anywhere else in the world.

Particularly when a piece of clothing or

jewellery is handmade, such as a

woollen jumper knitted by a great-aunt

or grandparent, the sentimentality for

that object grows deeply within us.

Materials that age well, such as leather,

appeal to us more than a newly bought

item. We search for such items in

vintage stores and charity shops as they

are more aesthetically pleasing to us.

A piece of clothing can go from

something you throw on casually in the

morning to an item you wish to cherish

by the end of the day, depending on the

events that follow. An old summer

dress can turn into the dress you get

engaged in. A satin fitted blazer can

become the item you land your dream

job in. The safekeeping of these clothes

is significant to us as they serve as

reminders of a monumental time in our

lives, and consequently develop into

our ‘lucky’ clothes. One item of clothing

can hold many meanings and

associations with wonderful memories.

We hold onto them as a reminder of

that time, but also in the hope of

repeating similar experiences when we

wear them again.

There is a multitude of reasons why we

find it hard to rid ourselves of clothing.

Memories are as powerful as the

physical object itself, especially when

the memory is heightened by vivid

emotions. There is a certain beauty in

the long-term possession of an item

enveloped with meaning and memory

recognised exclusively by the owner,

and the stories that come along with it.

But be warned – there is a difference

between emotional attachment and

using it as an excuse to hoard clothes!

At one point or another, we must give

in. We can’t keep every piece of

clothing we own forever. And the truth

is, someone might need it more.

So, if the dreaded clear-out is in your

schedule for winter, keep an open mind

when rummaging through your

wardrobe. And if something truly pains

you to let it go – keep it safe. You’ll be

reminded of happy memories when

you find it once again at the back of

your wardrobe in years to come.

Images via Pexels and Unsplash

PAGE 5


Photography by Fil MazzarinoBORA AKSU


LONDON RUNWAY

EDWARD

CRUTCHLEY

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

@the_mj_studio

PAGE 10


PAGE 11


ATELIER TAMMAM

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

PAGE 12


PAGE 13


PAUL COSTELLOE

PRESENTATION

Photography by Ian Clark

PAGE 14


AJOY SAHU

Amber Johnson spoke to Ajoy Sahu

INTERVIEW

during their LFW presentation to

discover the inspiration behind their

latest shoe collection.

LR: Hello! It's so lovely to meet you,

thank you for having me. So what was

the inspiration behind the collection

and the whole show?

Ajoy Sahu: Actually, the whole brand is

based on the poppies. [The fitting and

construction] are all inspired by the

poppy seeds, you know, the seeds inside

the poppy pod when they dry out. And

when you see the construction shape,

it's kind of like a poppy silhouette with

the seed in it. So this is how we start

designing the shoe construction. With

the kitten heels, we always try to keep

the seeds shape and also in the flat. And

then slowly we evolve the whole

collection into more fluid line ideas. So,

it's based on the original construction to

evolve into all different types of fluid

lines to make very interesting patterns

on the foot. Then we got all these very

special custom made fittings. The poppy

seeds are the most important for our

brand. We’re kind of trying to keep the

whole brand's identity into the

construction, the same concepts.

Hopefully, in the future with the brand

in the market a lot more, even though

people don't know our name, they can

still recognise the shape.

LR: You need that element that stands

out that makes you different from

everyone else, that when you see that

you say "That's that brand!'.

Ajoy Sahu: Yeah, so this is the DNA and

also very unique for the brand.

LR: Did you have any difficulties during

the design process of the whole

collection?

Which really stressed me out. And also

the factory finished, like, a week before,

because we made everything in China.

And I have a production team in China

to help to control the development and

the production. And of course, because

of COVID, I can't really go back to China.

So I have to do limitless video meetings.

I get up really early every day to work

with China time. So, to just really push

the whole collection, because normally,

during the development period, I'll be in

China to develop the whole collection

with the team. Because of COVID I

didn't go back for two years. We really

broke through lots of challenges.

LR: But it makes it all worth it though?

Ajoy Sahu: Yeah. And luckily, we found

a really cool New York showroom to

represent the brand worldwide as well.

So it's really cool. I'm really excited.

LR: Was there anything that you would

have changed or would have done

differently with the collection? Or are

you happy with the outcome?

Ajoy Sahu: I'm really happy with the

outcome. But of course, if I can be there

to develop the production, it would be

really great.

LR: I think it's the perfectionist, you

want to be able to see every single

element of the design and the

construction.

Ajoy Sahu: ...and feel the material and

choose the materials as well.

Ajoy Sahu: Yes, definitely. Because it's

during COVID. So actually, all the

collections just arrived yesterday.


NO FLOW

DO BABAD

Wardrobe - Brechó Babado Fashion @brecho.babadofashion

Styling, model - Negah Anna @negahanna

Hair Stylist, model - Edien Black @edienblack

Photographer - Wilson Vitorino @wilsonvitorino

Accessories - EME Sunglasses @emesunglasses


Two Weddings

Photographer: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio

MUAH: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah

Models: Karolina Nowak @karola3623_; Janete Zelinda @curlylioness

White Bridal gowns: Tatiana Porembova Bridal @tatianaporembovabridal

Red Bridal dress: Hali London @hali.hlondon; Tarz London @tarz_london

Shoes: Shoes by Larisa @shoesbylarisa

Jewellery: Saint Beth @saintbethofficial2; Honey V Tiaras @honeyvtiaras; Jayne Elizabeth Millinery @jayne.Elizabeth.Millinery

Crafts Bouquets and Candle: Crystal Crafts Bouquets @crystalcrafts_bouquets

Location - Lahore Karahi Tooting @lahorekarahitooting


LONDON RUNWAY

WALK TALK: THE INS AND OUTS OF MODEL

TRAINING WITH MAXINE GRIFFITHS

Jessica Carvalho explores the highs and

lows of model training, and just

what it takes to walk the walk, led by

model coach expert Maxine.

Fashion Week unearths a plethora of

things within me. Some of my best

outfits, a finetuned eye for upcoming

trends, and the staggering realisation

that there is a lot more to the modelling

industry than coordinated footfalls. It’s

often too easy to discredit models and

label their craft as simply walking, but

there is an entire blueprint to the art. So,

if you too want to brush up on your

modelling knowledge, I bring you

Maxine Griffiths: creative director,

events coordinator, model coach and

all-around cool girl who’ll give you a

taste of the world of model training.

How would you define The Model

Workshops and model training

to someone who isn't familiar with the

modelling industry?

The Model Workshops was created

initially to give the opportunity to

aspiring models who wanted to get into

the industry of catwalk. As you

know that doesn't always work for

everybody, and when I was trying to

get into the industry, I found that height

was a big problem. I was around

people that were already in the

industry, and I just sat under their wing

and just learned as much as I could

about walking, and because I was a

dancer as well, I mastered how to hold

my posture.

Getting into the industry and doing the

training, I devised the workshops

to educate. To give the opportunity to

those who may not have it or may

not even think that they can get onto a

runway. The opportunities I was

given once I mastered my walk are one

of the reasons why I started the

workshops. To put it simply, The Model

Workshops is there to help

aspiring models to understand their

walk and their posture.

How long have you been training

models and how was The Model

Workshops founded?

About 20 years, comfortably. I've been

training models for shows, events,

and doing lots of things with them,

getting them through [events]. The

Model Workshops was founded based

on a company that was called The

Platform Artist of The Stage, and it was

a place where people could come

in and use the stage for work, hobby,

interests, or just to gain experience.

After that, I looked at all of the elements

of what was on offer when I

started in the industry - anything to do

it, drama, music.

Back then, it wasn't deemed as a

profession, but lo and behold; 35 to 40

years later, people actually have this as a

career! We've got actors,

influencers, singers, dancers doing not

just the stuff that they love but

also what they’re talented at. I

formulated the workshops thinking

they need to be open to a lot of people

who want to understand the stage,

platforms, and runway for an

educational purpose. Not enticing you

with the glitz and glam, but giving you

realistic experience, realistic situations

that may occur, learning what the

runway is, learning terminologies,

learning speech, and the right words.

You might not know what a portfolio

is, what does it mean to have a deck - a

lot of girls and guys, they don't actually

know, especially if they're new into the

industry! I see the workshops as a safe

space that you can work within, get

experience, get hands on [help] from the

professionals I collaborate with, so you

can get to the next level if you want to.

I was going to say that it's really nice to

have a safe space, especially for starting

models.

That’s what I’m about, safe spaces.

Having safe having spaces that you

PAGE 30


can go into with no experience or as

much experience, and you can share

knowledge knowing that everybody

will be up to the same level, and

nobody will know more than someone

else. Otherwise, you'd come in

thinking that you know it all and not

actually assume you're coming to

learn; you’re coming to take away

something that you can implement

practically and realistically into your

next step on your journey within the

industry.

Would you say model training is “one

size fits all” or is it a is a

tailored experience important?

A tailored experience for me is

important, very tailored. That's one of

the elements that we have; our more

intense workshops like Runway Ready,

Own It for Yourself, I came up with the

content that goes within it. No two

people walk the same. No two models

walk the same.

I've just recently finished working with

Des O'Connor on his live catwalk

auditions, and I found that even then,

we had so many women from

different walks of life, some who never

graced the catwalk before or did

anything like that prior. [The workshops

are] about allowing them to

understand how to walk confidently,

how to own a room when you go into

it, how to put on a pair of 4’5-inch heels

and be able to stay in them for

longer than an hour. To be able to get

your heels out and express yourself

because, as women, we all like a pair of

shoes.

The day and age that we live in now is

so fast paced that someone can

present photos on Instagram, get a few

likes, and then suddenly, they

think based on their looks or great

figure, that's going to lead them to the

job. A lot of girls don’t like to do the

training because they think they've

got enough experience, but in certain

parts of the industry, you really

have to put the hard work in.

Everything needs teachers, none of us

know everything, and I had to sit under

some really good gurus and teachers to

even be where I am today.

With that said, have you witnessed an

opinion change at the workshops? For

example, someone who came in

expecting it to be useless, but leaving

with a completely different opinion?

Hell yeah! People have come in thinking

this was really simple, and then

they’d say “I never knew walking could

be so hard”, and I'm thinking yes!

Some people have it naturally, but

everybody can always do with a brush

up. It's like most things in life, but look

at any model whatsoever; look at

what they do behind the scenes.

We’ve gotten so used to wearing

trainers and chilling out that people

don't dress up anymore. With

The Model Workshops, I have a tailormade

package for every individual

that comes through the door. I take my

time, I look at them, and we just

work it through; I guarantee that

anybody that attends one of the

workshops will definitely come out

walking a lot taller than they came in.

Do you think there are a lot of

misconceptions about the hard

work that goes into model training both

for the trainer and the trainee?

Not just model training, anything! If you

want to be a scientist, somebody's going

to have to teach you the ins and outs

and the mechanics of it. If you want to

become a doctor, you will go to the

necessary colleges, complete the

training.


They have eating and fitness regimes,

they have things that they do to make

sure that they stay on top of their

game. You're not always going to see it,

and it's not always posted - though I

think more recently you kind of see

what a lot of the high end [models] are

doing behind the scenes - even down to

their make-up. Some girls don’t know

how to do their make-up, and you

should know how to do the basics. I

sometimes just feel that a lot of those

stepping into the industries of fashion,

music, and entertainment don't feel they

have to put any work, that it’s just based

on looks and likes. But, disappointment,

heartbreak, it’s all part of the

experience.

Like most fields of work, it doesn’t

sound like a linear growth at all.

Tears, lots of tears. Lots of

disappointment, lots of rejection. When

you get that kind of rejection, you think

“oh, I don't want to do this anymore, I

can't do it”, but there's always

somebody somewhere that can see

potential, it just depends on how hard

you work. There are models that

I've met, and I thought “three to four

months with me and by the time I’m

finished with you, I'll have you walking

certain shows”. You can get testimonials

- even this season, a young lady hadn’t

walked in two years since we've been in

lockdown and I got to witness her walk,

and it's just nice to see when the girls get

to another level. I can actually tell the

difference of those that had been

trained. Those taking the time to be

coached and those that have taken time

to be trained, coached, and mentored

through their journey until they get to a

point where they think “I've taken all

the help I could, I'm ready to go to the

next stage, and I can do that on my

own”.

How did being trained shape your

career?

I knew I wanted to do performing arts,

and I took my time and wanted to

learn about everything; from

production, lighting, to set design and

sound. I just wanted to learn it all, some

people only like one element of the

fashion shows and it’s the one that we

usually see. But there's so much that

goes on behind the scenes, like with

London Fashion Week, what you

see in the magazines, on music videos;

there are such great people

behind the scenes really putting their

hard work in, and some of the time

they don’t even get paid their rates. I

find it quite sad because some of

these companies have the budget to

help people but choose not to at all,

even though these people are

indispensable to the industry.

Take me through a day of training;

what can be expected from the moment

training with you begins, right until the

end?

I’d be giving away my secrets!

If it's all day, we have courses which are

broken down into series. They range

from Handle Your Heels, which is one

of my favourites because it is for

women and men, with no restrictions

on height, gender, or race - just bring

your heels and make sure they’re over

four inches. There's something about

when you put your shoes on before you

leave the house and you just feel

dressed, you feel complete. That's one of

the other reasons why I created Handle

Your Heels, because I just feel there is

a level of empowerment that comes

with wearing a pair of heels, your shoes

are fantastic, your bag, your clothing.

When I was developing the

course, I looked at how I how I wanted

to feel if I was coming along, what

is the journey I want to take people on,

so at the end of the three and a

half hours that we were together, you

leave with something you can

implement into the rest of your journey.

I also have Feel Like a Woman, Walk

Like a Boss. That's more for

empowering women to be bosses in

their own right, but also maintain

their morals, have integrity, know that

you're strong enough to do it but

also weak enough to stay feminine at

the same time. I don’t mean this in

a derogative way, but female

empowerment sometimes is very “I can

do all this by myself”, but the truth is

that need your community. No man is

an island, as my parents always said.

PAGE 32


Apart from getting these models further

in their career, what is

the most fulfilling part of model training

for you?

Their success is my success. After the

training session with me, having the

coaching and the mentoring, I know

that when they step into an arena,

they are walking comfortably and

walking proud knowing that they’ve got

this, so that means I've been successful.

Though training is very good for

finetuning skills, do you think it

is an essential step towards success or

can it be skipped (due to financial issues,

lack of time etc.)?

Anything that anybody wants out of life,

you’ll make time for. We can always use

the excuse of “I don't have the time” or

“financially, I can't”, and I understand it

with coming out of a lockdown into a

new normal, but if you want to be as

good as you can be, or you want to be

the best at what you are doing, you will

make time. It will then determine your

commitment, level of experience,

professionalism, and everything else

that comes with the industry.

Do you have any words of

encouragement for models hoping to

get into training?

Come and see me! To date, I don’t know

of any other woman that is doing

what I do; training is an integral part of

success in this industry, and often

I see a lot of flaws as a consultant

myself. The big agencies can only take

a certain number of models of colour,

models with ginger hair; training will

ensure that they see you as someone

worth their while, and someone

worth representing them. Training will

get your foot in the door.

So, should you itch for a heaped

spoonful of female empowerment with

a sprinkle of first-class discipline, let me

know. I know just who to call.

You can find more of Jessica’s work on

her Instagram @whatjesstypes.

Follow Maxine on Instagram

@the_model_workshops for castings,

advice, and news about upcoming

sessions.

What are some things that models

trained by you went on to do?

Magazines, videos, large Fashion Week

shows in Paris, Milan, New York.

Since we had the Black Lives Matter

movement, as a British-born black

woman, I feel we have a lot more

visibility we didn't have before. I'm

actually seeing people in adverts, doing

things and I'm thinking “Yep, remember

you when you came”, and I’m genuinely

very happy and excited to see where it

goes from here.

Just being part of what happened

in the past two years and part of the

Windrush generation as well, watching

the work that my parents put in all

those years ago so that we could have a

say; it's amazing to witness people that

have gone on and on to be better, be

greater and have the time of their life on

the runway of life.

The doors that don’t open, you kick

them open!


Sirens

Accessory Designer/Other/Fashion Designer/Retoucher/Photographer: Eva Cass @evamaedesigns

Models: Josephine Landry @josie.landry; Alison Leitao @alileitao; Emma Lynch @emma.lynch

Assistant: Anne Marie Costantino @anniecostaa21

Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Photographer: Julia McDonough @mcdonoughjulia

All wardrobe by Eva Cass

Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass


Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, jewellery - Eva Cass


Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.


Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass


Emma wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, and concrete earrings - Eva Cass


Josephine wears: hand-beaded, hand-dyed suit - Eva Cass


Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass


Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.


Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass


LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: ALISSA

Name: Alissa Schrag

Age: 19

Location: Switzerland/Zurich

Agency: Freelance (Muse of Marti)

Agent: Christoph Marti

How long have you been modelling

for?

My "career" as a model started at the

beginning of the year. I was contacted

by various photographers for shoots

via Instagram and then had the

opportunity to work with Robert

Ramseier in Switzerland. Now I have

about 5 photo shoots which I can list

as experience - but there are many

great projects planned. Being in front

of the camera has always been a big

dream of mine.

Where are you from originally?

I grew up and was born in beautiful

Switzerland in the middle of Europe.

Do you have an unusual talent or

party trick?

Besides modelling, painting is one of

my great passions. I have discovered

this talent and can no longer let my

fingers from brushes. When painting I

can give free rein to my creativity.

Therefore, I also like modelling - I am

a very artistic person

What would surprise people to know

about you?

I am a very determined and focused

person. When I set my mind on

something, I want to achieve it.

Whether it's modelling or my passion

of drawing where I can work without

problems 7 hours at a time to get the

right result. In addition, I am someone

who can talk well.

What are your modelling ambitions?

My goal would be to have a range.

Since one month I am the muse of

Christoph Marti - the Swiss

photographer - and I want to work

out a way with him to become better

known. The next steps are certainly

magazine publications that will come

in the next few months and my

dreams are to be a cover photo on

Vogue or on big ads.

Studio: Studio 1

Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti

Model: Alissa @chupxcabra

Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé

Alissa wears: Diesel; The Kooples; Dolce & Gabbana

PAGE 44


LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: DEKAYA

Name: Dekaya Hewlett

Age: 19

Location: Huntsville, Alabama

Agency: Pama Models

How long have you been modelling

for?

I’ve been modeling for 2 months.

Where are you from originally?

I’m originally from Huntsville,

Alabama.

Do you have an unusual talent or

party trick?

My unusual talent is being myself,

that simple quality isn’t normalized in

today’s society.

What would surprise people to know

about you?

People will be surprised to know I

graduated high school at 16 at the top

of my class.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I’m very ambitious about being in

Vogue one day.

Hair Stylist: Pretty Dolls Collection @prettydolls.collection

Makeup Artist: Makemiup @makemiup

Model: Dekaya Hewlett at Pama Models @xjunodkaayy_

Photographer: Pama Models @pamamodels

PAGE 46


LONDON RUNWAY

NEW FACE: LOIS

Name: Lois J Elise

Age: 29

Location: London

Agency: Unique Models London

How long have you been modelling

for?

3 years

Where are you from originally?

Windsor, UK

Do you have an unusual talent or

party trick?

I can speak Japanese! I have studied

the language since I was 13.

What would surprise people to know

about you?

I have a PhD in Japanese cinema and

fashion history, and am also a

qualified passenger boat captain.

What are your modelling ambitions?

I want my modelling to inspire others

to enjoy fashion and to feel

comfortable in their own skin - I am a

passionate body positivity advocate.

Lois wears: Headband - France Luxe; Dress - Vixen by Micheline Pitt;

Sunglasses - Gucci; Watch - Fitbit; Scarf on bag, silver ring and pearls -

True Vintage Ootd; Pearl ring - Ray Makes Things; Bag - Thrifted

PAGE 48


RED CHILDREN

It is important for me to fall in love with heroes

during photography, otherwise you can't get sincere

shots. I like to photograph children and old people -

both are most open and do not seek to pose.

In my works, I strive to show what is always with us,

but at the same time, it is closed and not given

importance - hugs, family values, belonging to

culture, children's games and memories.

Wardrobe Stylist: Юлия Джемова @julia_jam__

Models: Ariadna Golubeva at Mint Models Russia

@arish_goly; Vera Lipunova @lipunovavera; Artem

Sigaev @artem_sigaev; Saveliy Molchanov

@come.on.savva; Габриэль Оганян @gabriellife26;

Sofia Somova @sofia_somova_; Zarina And Marina

@goldentwins.13

Photographer: Дарья Шевченко @chuda.photo

portfolio

piece


LONDON RUNWAY

BEAUTY EXPERT, AUTHOR, AND ACTRESS

CHARIS MICHELSEN SHARES HOW TO UTILIZE

THE HOTTEST RUNWAY FASHION AND MAKEUP

TRENDS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR PHYSICAL APPEAL

Big lips were in, and lip liner encircled


Ah, the runway show experience —

inspirational, on-point street style

outside of show venues, the veritable

hyper-stylish elite clocking fellow

stars, the active buzz of top hair and

makeup artists behind-the-scenes as

gorgeous creatures sip champagne and

pick at delicacies while being painted

and coiffed, the hush as the lights shift,

the music pumps, cameras flash, and

the thrilling future of what could

change closets, requests at salons, and

contents of makeup bags is revealed.

For many years, this was the runway

show experience, until things changed

and created an opportunity to

creatively rethink what a runway

show could be. Even when formats

changed and digital shows became

commonplace, the passionate vision

for forecasting the future of fashion

and beauty did not. Designers, those

fine artists who hang their art on the

human canvas, reliably refuse to

compromise showcasing their

creations to the max— thank God.

However, after the show, their visions

should be translated into what is

suitable for each individual to ensure

that physical appeal is maximized.

Understanding what inspires trends,

such as those from past decades, can

give great insight into how to best

creatively utilise them to enhance

physical appeal; one can and should

cherry pick or twist elements of a

trend so it can be personalised.

In a review of current trends, the

nineties are making a reappearance

but with unique and modern twists. In

the 1990s, grunge, glamour, and

minimalism collided head-on, and just

as during the 1960s, when the spirit of

anything goes was the practiced belief,

the 1990s employed a similar attitude,

especially when it came to selfexpression,

individuality, and “just

being who you are.”

the outer perimeter of the lips to help

them appear larger. A more subdued

and neutral colour palette became

standard as “the natural look” came

into style. Eyeliner and eye colours

were soft and subtle. Skin went from

being matte-textured to more natural

and shiny, with shiny giving way to

glittery, funky, and fun everything.

“Heroin chic” and the “waif-look”

were brought in by model Kate Moss,

and emulated, playing a big part in the

decade. Several cosmetic companies

answered the call for the need for

more funky makeup and nail colours.

Small breasts gave way to all sizes of

breasts being in, and a hint of the looks

from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1960s made

their appearance during the decade.

Another decade that is trending, for

the obvious reason, is the twenties. In

the 1920s, short skirts, short hair, and

rebellion were in. Wearing makeup

was taboo before then; however, by

the 1920s, no one fashionable left

home without wearing it.

Pale skin was in, and raspberry or

orange-hued rouge toned down with

facial powder was worn on the cheeks.

The eyes and eyelashes were heavily

defined with dark eye makeup which

was used on the lower eyelash line and

eyelids, as was turquoise or green. The

famous cupid’s bow-shaped lips,

which were permanently pursed in a

“kiss”, inspired by the actress Clara

Bow, were drawn on the lips in reds,

deep reds, brown-reds, plum, oranges,


LONDON RUNWAY

DRESS: Jil Sander Silk Dress In Style RN.

104642 - CA 34767

BELT: Dior Black Belt

NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro In

Baby Love

MAKEUP:

EYES: Dior Backstage - Custom Eye Palette,

Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer In

920/Black Orchid, Milk Makeup KUSH High

Volumizing Mascara

EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge

CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars

Blush In Orgasm

LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip

Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Bobbi

Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In

Pink, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip

Color In Brown

rose, and raspberry in matte-textures.

These products would often be soapbased

and dry out the lips. Liquid

rouge defined the lip shape, like an

early lip liner, and lip colour filled in

the lips. Eyebrows were drawn on in

thin, dark, arched, elongated, and

downward-sloped thin or odd shapes

denoting emotional expression.

Fashion hero Coco Chanel was a

powerful influence in the 1920s and

ushered in the healthy look of a tan,

amongst other style-changing trends.

Orange makeup mimicked the look of

a tan, and legs and smaller breasts

were in.

Besides knowing the history behind a

trend, to pull from it what personally

resonates and inspires, physical

attributes, such as skin undertone,

facial features, and their balance, as

well as personal style are also

important to examine to know how to

best use a trend to one’s advantage. To

determine your facial attributes, view

the videos DISCOVER YOUR FACE

SHAPE, ACHIEVE MAXIMUM

PHYSICAL APPEAL USING FACIAL

DIVISIONS, and others on the CHARIS

MICHELSEN YouTube channel.

For example, if a trending colour does

not work well for your skin’s

undertone and you want to wear it, try

a version of that colour that better

suits you. If orange is trending, and

your skin’s undertone is cool, try

wearing red-orange or red instead of

orange. If bright lip colours are

trending and you look better in darker

lip colours, try mixing a favorite

darker colour with a bright colour that

works well with your skin’s

undertone.

This goes for the placement of

cosmetics as well. If you have closespaced

eyes and it is trending to

encircle the eyes with eyeliner, bypass

applying the eyeliner to the inner

upper and lower third of your eyes or

only apply light colours of eyeliner to

this area.

There is a science to looking one’s best,

which was perfected through the

world’s first Universal Beauty

Standard System which was used to

create the illustrated and

comprehensive beauty books

Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star

Makeup and Grooming For Men: From

Dirty to polished. These books instruct

on how to look your personal best by

PAGE 52


using easy-to-follow cosmetic

techniques and offering original tips,

such as the timeless “four-point rule”

to ensure your maximum physical

appeal is achieved no matter what is

trending on the runway.

The following is an excerpt about the

“four-point rule” from Hollywood

Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup:

THE FOUR-POINT RULE:

Count each “point of interest” as one

point.

NOTE: You can choose to wear fewer

“points of interest” than four but not

more than four if you do not want to

look overstated. If garments of the

same colour are worn together as if

they are one continuous piece, their

point total would equal one.

For example, if you wear boots, pants,

and a top in the same colour of bright

orange, where there are no breaks in

colour, where you do not see skin or

another colour, those pieces working

together would equal one point.

“POINTS OF INTEREST”:

A viewer’s eyes are drawn to look at:

1: Vibrant makeup.

2: Dark makeup.

3: Light-reflective makeup or opaque

matte-textured makeup (other than a

concealer, foundation, or powder).

4: Hairstyles that appear “done”/any

hairstyle that requires hairspray or

another product to hold it in place, etc

5: Busy patterns of clothing or clothing

that contains embellishments or

ornate details, such as multiple

zippers, ruffles, etc.

6: Articles of clothing that are

revealing.

7: Shoes, clothing, and/or accessories

in bold “statement” colours, such as

red, etc.

8: Accessories in general, such as hats,

bracelets, etc.

MAKEUP:

Both makeup “LOOK #2” and “LOOK

#3” count as one point. The point of

interest will be your lips in “LOOK #2”

and your eyes in “LOOK #3.” “LOOK

#1” counts as zero points, as the face

has no points of interest. NOTE:

“LOOK #4” counts as two points, as

your lips and eyes are both points of

interest. See chapter THE FOUR BASIC

FACES for additional information.

EXAMPLE 1:

You can wear a bold ruffled blouse (+1

point), simple blue jeans (+0 points),

brightly coloured shoes (+1 point), a

statement ring (+1 point), a simple

black handbag (+0 points), and makeup

LOOK #2 (+1 points) = 4 points.

Variation example:

If you want to wear a bold handbag (+1

point), choose to wear makeup LOOK

#1 (+ 0 points) = 4 points.

EXAMPLE 2:

You can wear a simple black dress (+0

points), simple black pumps (+0

1920s Makeup

1990s Makeup

THE FOUR-POINT

RULE: EXAMPLE 2

(From The Book

Hollywood Beauty:

The Art Of Star

Makeup By Charis

Michelsen)


points), a colourful clutch (+1 point),

layered, bold necklaces (+1 point), a

bold bracelet (+1 point), and makeup

LOOK #3 (+1 point) = 4 points.

Variation example:

Trade the simple black dress for a

patterned one (+ 1 point), and take off

the necklaces (+ 0 points) = 4 points.

Stick with the “Four Point Rule” and

add up your points. By not exceeding

four “points of interest” at any given

time, you will always look your best.

Also, consider the inspiration for a

runway trend and your personal

needs when styling the fabulous you.

More information and examples

available in Hollywood Beauty: The

Art of Star Makeup by Charis

Michelsen.

In forecasting the future of fashion

and beauty, the vote is for the

maximization of one’s physical appeal

and consciousness will always be in

style— the more one chooses healthy

and cruelty-free fashion and cosmetic

products, the better. Some

inspirational style icons who have

made fashion and beauty their own,

no matter the trends, are Gabrielle

Coco Chanel, Jacklyn Kennedy

Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Jimi

Hendrix, Ali MacGraw, Steve

McQueen, David Bowie, Tom Ford,

Sarah Jessica Parker, and Victoria

Beckham. Remember that following

runway trends is not mandatory.

If you love a specific look, and it is not

“in” at the moment, do not let that

deter you from embracing it; at some

point, you might be the one starting a

hot new trend that will be seen on the

runway!

For more information and to view

videos from Charis Michelsen, be sure

to like, subscribe, or follow her on her

social media channels:

YouTube channel: CHARIS

MICHELSEN

Instagram: @charismichelsen_official

TikTok: charismichelsen_official

Facebook: official.charismichelsen

Twitter: OfficialCharisM

Official Website: charismichelsen.com

How to contact Charis Michelsen:

AGENT: Sheila Finegan

sheila@trinityartist.com

MANAGER: Jeff Smith

jeff@trinityartist.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel Weber

@danielweber_photography

MODEL, MAKEUP, STYLING: Charis

Michelsen @charismichelsen_official

HAIR: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton

Salon Of Beverly Hills @hairbysylvie

ARTWORK: Charis Michelsen (From

The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art

Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)

charismichelsen.com

THE FOUR-POINT RULE:

EXAMPLE 1

(From The Book Hollywood

Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup

By Charis Michelsen)


LONDON RUNWAY

MARK FAST Photography

by Fil Mazzarino

PAGE 55


LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 56


LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 57


PAGE 58


LONDON RUNWAY

TIGER OF

SWEDEN

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

PAGE 59


PAGE 60


PAGE 61


AADNEVIK

Photography by Ian Clark

PAGE 62


PAGE 63


PAGE 64


STYLE

(CONSCIOUS)

GUIDE

ethical and sustainable style guide

selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Matches Fashion

Sequinned

cropped top

£430.00

Rejina Pyo

Volume Hoops Gold

Plated with Blue Enamel

£195.00

Browns Fashion

Fauna Floral

Print Dress

£220.00

Mother of Pearl

Esther black daisy

dress

£395.00

Molly Goddard

Sendai Bag Red Pink

£420.00

Matches Fashion

Asymmetric wool

and lurex sweater

dress

£1,170.00

Rejina Pyo

Hattie Dress

Organic Cotton

Print Flower Amber

£650

Browns Fashion

Fleur Lace Maxi Dress

£650.00

H&M Conscious

shaping swimsuit

£24.99

Yuhan Wang

AISTE rose lace tiered

skirt

£529.00

Erdem

Small Crystal Knot

Clip Earrings

£295.00

Molly Goddard

Jimmy Dress Pink

£1,300.00

Rejina Pyo

Malia Sandals

Leather Orange

£395.00

INSPIRED BY LFW

PAGE 66

Yuhan Wang

Draped jacquard trousers

£510.00


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

ROMANTIC DARKNESS

This month, Cicilia illustrates the

history of one of the most famous

British fashion houses, Alexander

McQueen. Many of you probably

know this name very well. For those

who have recently landed on the

fashion planet, this brand’s fame

spiked as their oversized trainers

were the most popular womenswear

item in 2019.

Lee Alexander McQueen, founder of

the eponymous company, was born

in 1969 in Lewisham. His father was a

Scottish taxi driver who instilled in

him a deep love for his homeland,

and his mother was a social science

teacher. In addition to Scotland, one

of his passions and artistic

inspirations was birds. In fact, as a

young man, he was a member of the

Young Ornithologists' Club.

McQueen was not very keen on

school, and at the age of sixteen, he

dropped out to devote himself to

tailoring. He immediately landed in

the famous Saville Row by chance or

talent, where he did an

apprenticeship. Between the ages of

sixteen and twenty, he had many

work experiences. For example, he

worked as a theatrical costumier for

Angels and Bermans, where he

created the costumes for the Les

Misérables show. After that, he

moved to Milan working for Romeo

Gigli and later returned to attend

Central Saint Martins.

In fact, given his innate talent, he

coveted the position of pattern

cutter tutor; however, he was too

young to teach. In 1992 he enrolled

in an MA. His graduation

collection, called Jack the Ripper

Stalks His Victims, was a reckless

success. In fact, the stylist Isabella

Blow bought all the outfits. She had

a massive influence on the future

success of the British designer; she

persuaded him to use his middle

name, Alexander. This was a

marketing strategy and, at the same

time, a trick to prevent the job

centre he was affiliated with from

finding out he was working. Blow

was a mentor for Alexander

McQueen, and she offered him her

home basement. According to her,

this would have given Alexander a

safe working and living space

without struggling financially and

losing his focus on fashion.


PAGE 67


LONDON RUNWAY

Creating a stir seemed like a hobby

for McQueen, who was later accused

of exalting slavery, sexualising

women, and being a lover of horror.

After the first few years of

controversy, McQueen landed in

the graces of musical celebrities.

He designed the wardrobe for

David Bowie's 1997 tour, which

includes the Union Jack coat. He

also worked with Björk, directing

her music video 'Alarm Call' and

designing a topless dress.

McQueen initially took inspiration for

all of his collections from famous

films. Taxi Driver, his first postgraduation

collection, was based on

Martin Scorsese's film. This was a real

success, as it introduced the 'bumsters',

also known as low-rise jeans.

McQueen's runways have always been

bold and provocative. So, it's not a

coincidence that he was called 'the

hooligan of English fashion'. The

designer, creative but with a complex

personality, presented the fashion

show Nihilism featuring models

covered with fake blood and bruises.

In 1994, McQueen met Katy England

and decided to make her his righthand

man, or rather his adviser. The

first collection they worked on

together was The Birds, a roadkill

themed catwalk featuring tire marks,

paying homage to Alfred Hitchcock's

film. McQueen's fame, a

misunderstood genius, collected many

negative reviews over the first years.

However, his fame spiked when

Madonna wore her 'bumsters' jeans in

an MTV advert in 1994.

At the age of thirty, McQueen was

named Head of Design for

Givenchy, following the departure

of John Galliano. The Count Hubert

de Givenchy was by no means

happy with this, considering

McQueen utterly inappropriate for

his fashion house. McQueen's

debut for Givenchy was with the

Spring / Summer 1997 collection, a

homage to ancient Greece. As

refined as it was, teeming with

white and gold, it differed from

Galliano's lavish collections.

Fake blood appeared very often on

McQueen's catwalks. In fact,

Highland Rape, a collection aimed at

exposing Scotland's 'rape' at the

hands of England, was a mix of fake

blood and torn apart clothes.

Unfortunately, not everyone

understood the show's true

meaning, and McQueen was accused

of misogyny as many thought it

referred to the rape of women.


LONDON RUNWAY

Back in London, he designed the It's a

Jungle out There collection, inspired

by gazelles daily hunted by lions. He

empathised a lot with these savannah

victims. Although he felt oppressed by

the fashion industry with its negative

reviews on his past collections, the

new one was a success. He rode the

wave of positive reviews and started

to play a lot also with set design.

Indeed, his Spring/Summer 1998

collection, Untitled, was presented on

a catwalk made of water and yellow

lights, while the next one had a

masked model standing in a circle of

fire.

McQueen didn't actually leave

Givenchy peacefully; in fact, he was

fired. In 2000, he signed an

agreement with Gucci selling 51% of

his own company. The Italian and

French brands were rivals, and for this

reason, Givenchy dismissed him.

This was the only strategy to revive

Alexander McQueen's brand, which

soon opened boutiques worldwide,

expanding to perfume, eyewear

accessories, and menswear. With

considerable financial backing from

Gucci, McQueen continued with his

bold and provocative runways.

His last public appearance was

during the Paris Fashion Week in

February 2009, when he presented

Plato's Atlantis collection. The show

was supposed to be broadcast live

on the internet, but the site crashed

when Lady Gaga tweeted about the

upcoming show.

McQueen had a twisted personality,

often felt misunderstood by others,

and was almost pathologically

introverted. He committed suicide,

as did his mentor Isabella Blow who

died in 2007, at his home in Mayfair

in 2010.

At the time, he only had very few

uncompleted pieces for his

Autumn/Winter 2010 collection,

which were finished by his team.

A handful of fashion editors attended

that show and then reported how

creepy it was to perceive McQueen's

obsession with the afterlife just by

observing those sixteen outfits.

Gucci's financial support ensured the

continuation of the brand and by

Sarah Burton, McQueen's assistant,

who was appointed Creative Director.

Burton designed Catherine

Middleton's wedding dress and won

the prize Designer of the Year during

the 2011 British Fashion Awards.

Although McQueen's ready-towear

is now much more famous

than his first runways, I

recommend you to check out the

incredible shows created by

McQueen himself. His shows'

setting was not just a contour to his

clothes but an externalisation of

the designer's disturbances and

obsessions that could not be

recreated in fabric and

haberdashery.

You can find more of Cicilia's

works by visiting

ciciliabrognoli.com

Images by Cicilia Brognoli from the

Roses exhibition held in the

Alexander McQueen flagship store

in Bond Street from November

2019 to May 2020.


GOWNS N' ROSES

BY BE UNIQUE BE YOU

Models: Ayla Imogen; Ivie Akira; Lacey Rae; Lara Jane; Scarlett; Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana;

Tylda; Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Ysabella Kristeen


Designer: Anne Wilkinson - Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou


Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks - @ram.eagle


Location: Historic Rose Garden, Southsea - Portsmouth


UNDERRATED SNEAKERS THAT YOU NEED

FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON

9: New Balance MADE UK 991

7: Converse x Ambush CTAS Duck Boot


This week, Thomas Woods details the

best big brand ‘under the radar’

sneakers that will compliment your

autumn and winter wardrobes- whilst

also saving you some pennies.

With streetwear at its highest point of

popularity, everybody wants the latest

and greatest sneakers, which often leads

to the newest releases being hard to

come by. From the front runners such

as Nike and Adidas, to the low profilers

like New Balance and Converse, this list

is what you need to track down those

must-haves. Being a shoe lover myself, I

have compiled the 10 best value for

money unisex sneakers that these

leading shoe brands have to offer for

the upcoming autumn and winter

period.

QUICK TIP: For the best prices on all

these shoes, make sure to check out if

there are any discount codes available

(especially if you’re a student).

(Price): £170.00

(Colourway): green/wine/yellow

With the emergence of the ‘dad’ shoe,

New Balance made its triumphant

return. This chunky 991 was

“constructed for comfort and style”,

with its warm earth tones perfectly

matching the autumnal changing of the

leaves. The shoe’s suede upper adds to

this warm appearance overall and I

believe this would be a great addition to

your collection if you’re willing to

spend a bit extra.

(Price): £84.97

(Colourway): white/black

If we are talking durability, this shoe

goes top of the list. This 2020 release

combines the Converse name with

established luxury brand Ambush to

produce a high-top boot, made up of a

combination of mesh material for

comfort as well as a leather bottom for

durability. At half its original price, this

boot would add a bit of luxury to your

winter wardrobe whilst also not setting

you back too far. It also comes in a

bright blue colourway if you’re feeling

more adventurous!

10: Adidas Originals Samba Vegan Shoes

(Price): £70.00

(Colourway): cloud white/core

black/gum

Nothing like bringing something back, is

there? This classic Adidas silhouette

goes back to 1949 and has been everpresent

since, with the shoe slowly

beginning to re-emerge as a fashionable

favourite for both men and women.

With this planet-friendly iteration, you

get the classic shape and those timeless

three stripes all along with a neutral

colour palette that goes with absolutely

everything. For £70, I think this is a

reliable choice for the upcoming

autumn period.

8: Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage

(Price): £89.95

(Colourway): white/black

A product of the 1970s, the Nike Blazer

Mid ’77 Vintage was originally tested as

a basketball sneaker but eventually

became a staple lifestyle shoe. As a

potential high-top replacement for the

overpriced Jordan 1 silhouette, this shoe

matches with almost anything and will

be certain to keep your ankles warm in

winter. At £90, I think this is a shoe well

worth having... just make sure to use

shoe protector to keep them looking

brand new!

6: Converse Color Vintage Canvas

Chuck 70

(Price): £75.00

(Colourway): deep

bordeaux/egret/black

Not much needs to be said about this

all-time classic shoe... it really is the

definition of timeless. The adaptable

high-top sneaker comes in at sixth place

in a plum-like colourway with an aged

cream bottom. The richness of the

darkish red is bound to integrate

perfectly into your autumnal colour

palettes, and with the lower price-point,

it’s a no-brainer!

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LONDON RUNWAY

2. Nike Lahar Low

(Price): £114.95

(Colourway):

hemp/grain/orange/smoke

5: Nike Free Run Trail

(Price): £109.95

(Colourway): driftwood, white & black

A slightly left of centre choice, the Nike

Free Run Trail is a comfort-based shoe

that is perfect for those on the go. Nike

combines an airy mesh upper with a

light brown suede and a foam midsole

to create a sneaker that will last you

through the autumn and winter months.

The colourway is one of my favourites

on this list as it combines shades of

brown and orange with a crisp white,

which certainly offers solid autumnal

vibes. A higher price point is a

downside, but the comfort it provides is

unmatched.

4: Nike Dunk High

(Price): various

(Colourway): navy/white

This may be a shoe that many expected

not to be on this list considering its high

popularity. Over the last year, Nike have

released an array of Dunk High

colourways, with the ‘Championship

Navy’ edition being one of its most

slept-on pairs. It offers a high-top

alternative to more common silhouettes

and has a clean, neutral colour balance

that would pair brilliantly with varsity

jackets and much more. Despite it being

sold out at Nike, resell websites such as

StockX have them listed at relatively

affordable prices depending on size, and

with the sheer popularity of the shoe, it

is certainly a piece that would help you

stand out from the crowd.

3: Adidas Forum 84 Low

(Price): £85

(Colourway): off white/collegiate green

/glow pink

This 1984 silhouette comes in at third

place with its unique but

complimentary colour combination of

peach, green, and off white. Adidas have

produced a perfect chunky sneaker

here, with its wide middle making it an

ideal shoe to let sit under wide-leg jeans

and various other bottoms, like cargos.

Additionally, little details such as its

Velcro lace strap and personalisation

feature make it a purchase well worth

its £85 price point.

The top two picks were hard to

separate, but coming up just short of top

spot is the Nike Lahar Low in a brown

colourway. A combination of a sneaker

and boot, this new release from Nike

looks like it can do it all. Apparently

“built for the rugged urban landscape”,

this model could fit just as well on the

streets as it would do on a hike; the

possibilities are endless! It’s a shoe that

has most definitely flown under the

radar, with it being readily available to

buy right now. Go check it out, it has

multiple colourways if this one fails to

impress.

1. Nike Blazer Low x Sacai

(Price): £119

(Colourway): tan/red

Coming in at first place on the list has to

be the recently released Nike x Sacai

Blazer Low in the ‘British Tan’

colourway. Possibly the best cold

weather colourway I’ve seen in a while,

this collaboration adds a popular brand

to your collection while keeping your

bank account looking healthy. The

contrast of the red and tan alongside the

beautiful suede materials creates a

striking shoe that will still match with

everything you have. The additional

doubled tongue, laces, and bottom

projects an unmistakeably Sacai look

whilst keeping the overall shoe lowkey.

At £119, I see this shoe as the best

balance in terms of appearance, luxury,

and price.

PAGE 82


I want to remind you that it's ok to have different emotions. You

shouldn't blame yourself for your reactions. You shouldn't

estimate yourself as a person for "bad" or "good" emotions.

Furthermore, you are not your emotions.

Model: Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta

Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio


Beauty Veil

Models: Anastasia Gorishna @Nastyagorishna; Enplanafro @enplanafro

Makeup Artist: Sarah Lily @glambysarahlily; Liudka @Liudka.b

Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon

Veils: Accesorize


LONDON RUNWAY

London Runway was on hand to

witness the live catwalk auditions to

select the face (or feet!) of the upcoming

Des O'Connors shoe collection. With

insights from our Face of London

Runway 2021 Womenswear winner,

Kirsty Spence…

On Saturday 11th September, a large

group of hopeful models filed into the

Holiday Inn in Kensington. They were a

diverse bunch, all from different shapes

and sizes and walks of life – and all of

them were hoping for the chance to

become the new ambassador for Des

O’Connor’s shoes.

With a prize worth £10,000 on the line,

everyone was ready to put their best

foot forward. And with our favourite

model coach, Maxine Griffiths, at the

helm, they all had an amazing shot!

After a day of practice, the models

walked out on the runway in front of a

live audience, competing in three

rounds to get to the top prize.

The first round saw all the models

stepping out in all-black outfits,

bringing us to a neutral comparison of

each of their talents. From there, they

were given their own choice of their

favourite outfit to wear with their own

stunning, colourful shoes. Finally, the

top entrants returned in new looks to

answer some questions from the judges

and get the chance to be crowned as the

winners.

Little did they know, there were actually

more prizes to be won! The judges

actually named winners in five

categories as well as the overall winner.

DES O’CONNORS LIVE

CATWALK AUDITIONS

They were:


Miss Impact – Maria Castiblanco

Miss Achieve – Ewelina Salata

Miss Courage – Hera Kruja

Miss Influence – Kinga Orlicz

Miss Energy – Lina Rahban

DOC Winner 2021 – Melissa Luke

Melissa will go home with five pairs of

Des O’Connors shoes and will also

model for the brand in the future.

And she wasn’t the only winner on the

day, either – with attendees all being

entered into a raffle to win shoes and

one on one motivational sessions with

Des himself.

“The models were amazing,” Kirsty told

us after watching the show from the

front row. “It was really professional,

with a full-on catwalk. It was really

vibrant, really upbeat. There was sass,

there was attitude! I loved the diversity!”

Jealous? Well, you might have missed

out on this year, but that doesn’t mean

you’ve missed every opportunity. Head

to desoconnorsmodels.com to get the

lowdown on the next opportunity – not

to be missed if you’re an aspiring model,

a shoe lover, or want to find

empowerment for yourself as a woman!

Take a peek over the next few pages to

see the winners and runners up, as well

as a highlight gallery of the most

exciting shoes that the models wore on

the day! What will the Des O’Connors

shoe collection look like? Stay tuned for

when it is launched in March to find

out!


DES O CONNORS

MODEL WINNERS

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio


DES O CONNORS

LIVE CATWALK

AUDITIONS

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio


DES O CONNORS

SHOE HIGHLIGHTS

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio


BEST OF BOTH

BOUTIQUE

Images by Fil Mazzarino


PAGE 61


LONDON RUNWAY

LFW came in full force this season with both digital and in-person presentations, but what

was even better than nearly a week of innovative SS22 fashion? The street styles returned!

Candice brings you LFW street style inspired trends fit for each unique sign.


March 21 - April 20

Aries

The Amaury Coat in Green, Navy, and White

Stripe is both versatile and bold, perfect for

any season. By Alice Early, all of their pieces

are designed and handmade in London with

classic, structured designs perfect for this fire

sign!

April 21 - May 21

Taurus

Aligne’s Quilted Evie Sleeveless Liner features a

drawstring waist and is the perfect layering

must-have! Tauruses will love the comfortable

design!

May 22- June 21

Gemini

Eclectic and funky are words used to

describe a Gemini and their style! Pair this

sign with ROOP’s satin Baby ROOP Bag and

you’ll have a match made in heaven!

PAGE 104


LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer

June 22- July 22

This feminine Virago Sleeve Top by Aardes

in wild rose is perfect for elevating the

classy Cancer’s traditional t-shirt and jeans

fit. The limited edition top is 100% cotton

and hand block printed in Jaipur, India.

Leo

July 23- August 21

Knee and thigh high boots cannot be

missed when looking back at LFW street

styles. With Beyond Skin’s Roxie B Camel

Faux Leather Knee High Vegan Boots, Leos

will strut with confidence everywhere they

go!

Virgo

August 22- September 23

Diligent Virgos constantly on the go want

nothing less than perfect, and this

translates over to their fashion tastes as

well! Oversized blazers never go wrong

with their practical and chic aesthetic, like

this Mother of Pearl Eden Prince of Wales

Jacket!

PAGE 105


LONDON RUNWAY

Libra

September 24- October 23

Colour-blocking makes a return with

fashion forward Libras leaping with joy to

pair their favourite colour schemes

together this season! Stella McCartney’s

‘Maia’ coat is “splashed with vivid pink, red

and orange hues.”

October 24- November 22

Scorpio

Checks and ginghams are back, and

Scorpios rock this undying trend like no

other! Seventy + Mochi’s Victoria Blouse in

Handwoven Berry Gingham showcases the

duality of this compassionate yet stoic sign

with its frill design and dark colouring.

November 23- December 22

Sagittarius

Sagittariuses and Beaumont Organic

are the experts of style and comfort. The

Francesca Linen Top’s balloon sleeves and

tie-up collar make for an elegant boho

addition to both sign and brand!

PAGE 106


Capricorn

December 23- January 20

Kairi London’s Julia Bag in their yin yang

design is 100% vegan made from cactus

leather. It fits almost everything a

Capricorn may need of it and more!

Aquarius

January 21 - February 19

Trendsetters through and through,

Aquarians rock anything they don, setting

the standard. This Mahogany Paradise set

from House of Sunny features statement,

printed pieces that they’re always drawn

to.


February 20 - March 20

Pisces

Yasmina Q’s Willow Dress in Sunrise

Yellow features a full length design with

jasmine ditsy print and cascading frills.

Pisceans will love this ethereal, dreamy

design, enhancing their intuition and

femininity.

You can see more of Candice's work on

Instagram by following @Candice_x9.

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley

All images via respective retailers

PAGE 107


LONDON

ACCESSORY

WEEK

Photography by Fil Mazzarino


LONDON RUNWAY


LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 110


LONDON RUNWAY

PAGE 111


AFRICA

FASHION

AWARDS:

KANDE

COLLECTION

Images by Fil Mazzarino


PAGE 113


LA DAMA

LINGERIE

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

@the_mj_studio

PAGE 114


MISS POLSKI UK

& IRELAND

Paweł Majewski is the Founder and CEO of Miss Polski UK &

Ireland.

Miss Poland UK & Ireland 2021 - Sandra Salamon

Miss Poland UK & Ireland Teen 2021 - Klaudia Kotlarz

1st Vice Miss - Katarzyna Kriger

1st Vice Miss Teen - Nikola Ladosz

2nd Vice Miss - Nikolina Holuk

2nd Vice Miss Teen - Jagoda Biegala

Miss Photo Teen - Victoria Tadej

Miss Photo - Marta Chrostowska

Miss Internet Teenager - Victoria Tadej

Miss Internet - Sandra Salamon

Miss Teen Personality - Jagoda Biegala

Miss personality - Anna Guzak

Miss Smile - Nell Malczuk

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

@the_mj_studio


PAGE 117


MOST

THE

ICONIC

SUPERMODELS

ALL TIME

OF

LONDON RUNWAY

In the aftermath of London Fashion

Week, Ruth Croft explores the most

iconic supermodels of all time and

their impact on modern society.

Every September, just as the leaves

begin to fall, the streets of the capital

seem to quiver with anticipation as

London Fashion Week returns. The

revolutionary event first took place

in October 1983, and is showcased

twice a year - once in the spring, and

then in the autumn - for designers to

present their upcoming collections to

the public. It is organised by the

British Fashion Council, a not-forprofit

establishment that, in addition

to coordinating fashion events and

awards, is responsible for supporting

the next generation of designers.

This year, the event was held from

the 16th to the 21st of September,

leading with the talents of Bora Aksu,

Halpern, Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo,

and ERDEM, to name but a few. The

shows were split between both

physical and digital events, due to

the COVID-19 pandemic. But as

always, it was remarkable to see the

hard work of everyone involved in

such a prestigious experience, and to

express our appreciation of their

dedication and genius.


With this reminder of such talent, it

rouses the conversation around to the

other true power shining from events

such as this: that which brings the

designers’ dream to life, and styles it

out magnificently on the runway. I

am, of course, referring to the role of

the models - more specifically, the

elusive supermodel. The vague

definition of said supermodel is

simply a highly paid fashion model

who is beautiful and famous enough

to have cultural dominance. They

typically have an illustrious

reputation amongst prominent

fashion designers, magazine editors,

and beauty brands. Though it may

seem undemanding to stand on the

stage and look pretty, the art of

modelling is a complicated role which

requires a lot of energy. It is their job

to showcase the designs, to cast them

into the light, and reveal them as

something entirely visionary. They

are the presentation of ideals. And

most of the time, they find

themselves even more renowned

than their creators, making

themselves household names

throughout the entire world.

In light of this, here we explore the

top most iconic supermodels of all

time…

Naomi Campbell

Perhaps the most influential

supermodel of the ‘90s, Naomi

Campbell was the first person that

came to mind when I thought about

writing this article. Her era in the

fashion industry began in the 1980s,

and continues to this day, although

her first appearance in the spotlight

was when she starred in a Bob Marley

music video at age seven. Known for

her beauty and committed attitude to

her work, Campbell soon established

PAGE 118


LONDON RUNWAY

herself as one of the most reputable

models in the entire industry early

on in her career, being awarded the

title of ‘supermodel’ by the

international press. It’s worth noting

that she was the most famous black

model of her time. Since then, she

has also earned notoriety for being

particularly philanthropic. Not only

has she raised significant funds for

the Nelson Mandela Children’s

Funds, and raised awareness for

breast cancer through Fashion

Targets Breast Cancer, she is also the

founder of the charityFashion for

Relief, which organised fund-raising

fashion events to aid victims of

Hurricane Katrina in 2005.

Cindy Crawford

Rising to fame in the 1980s, Cindy

Crawford soon became a part of

what is now known as ‘the Big Six’,

consisting of the top supermodels on

the runway at the time. In her time,

she had a reliable presence on

fashion and lifestyle magazine

covers, as well as various modelling

campaigns and catwalks. She is best

known for her voluminous, wavy

hair, strong eyebrows, and her

trademark beauty mark.

earning her the nickname, ‘The

Shrimp.’ She even helped popularise

the mini skirt.

Elle MacPherson

The girl-next-door from Australia,

Elle MacPherson was known for her

smart and athletic aesthetic. She was

enrolled at Sydney University to

study Law, but began modelling to

pay for her textbooks. She was soon

posing on the covers of many

American magazines, however, her

most prominent exposure is arguably

her record five covers in the annual

Swimsuit Issue in Sports Illustrated.

This eventually earned her the

nickname, ‘The Body.’ She is also an

ambassador for RED, an enterprise

designed to raise money for the

Global Fund to Fight AIDS,

Tuberculosis, and Malaria.

Gisele Bündchen

Gisele Bündchen rose to fame in the

‘90s, after being discovered by Elite

Model Management in Rio de Janeiro.

Her very first runway show was during

New York Fashion Week, and she soon

went on to work with Dolce and

Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The

media referred to her as ‘the return of

the sexy model,’ as well as ‘the Brazilian

bombshell.’ It is reported that

Bündchen has been the highest-paid

model in the world since 2004,

however, she has used her wealth

philanthropically. Not only did she

donate $150,000 to the Zero Hunger

Program in Brazil, but she has also

campaigned for St Jude Children’s

Research Hospital, and the Red Cross to

aid those in Haiti after the earthquake

in 2010. She is a Goodwill Ambassador

for the United Nations Environment

Program.

Jean Shrimpton

Jean Shrimpton has been described

as having ‘the world’s most beautiful

face,’ known for her doe eyes and

pouty lips. She was particularly

poignant because of her contrast

with the former curvaceous look

presented by models in the ‘60s,

PAGE 119


LONDON RUNWAY

Twiggy

Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) was

the star of the Swinging Sixties,

storming into the modelling world at

only 16 years of age. She is best known

for her huge, dark eyes that she made

even more prominent with drawn-on

eyelashes, and her delicately slender

frame which inspired her nickname.

woman to ever walk in the Victoria’s

Secret Fashion Show in 2009. She

resides in New York, and is continuing

to rise in global success.

Jourdan Dunn

In 2008, Jourdan Dunn was the

first black model to star in a Prada

show for over a decade. She has

since spoken about the lack of

diversity in the modelling industry,

and the discrimination she has

faced during her career. Despite

these hardships, she has

campaigned with the likes of Marc

Jacobs and Yves St Laurent, and is

considered to be one of her

generation’s supermodels.

Kate Moss

Liu Wen

Known as the first Chinese

Supermodel, Liu Wen debuted her

international runway career in 2008,

walking for Burberry. She has since

worked with huge fashion brands, such

as Oscar de la Renta and Alexander

Wang. She became the first East-Asian

The British model that everyone

loves, Kate Moss was a pioneer of

the ‘90s fashion world. She was the

face of ‘heroin chic,’ a style that

represented the androgynous,

slender, pale skin trend that rose in

the early 1990s. It was a deviation

from the previous supermodel

look, awarding Moss worldwide

attention. She has been associated

with many brands over the years,

and is still considered to be one of

the world’s most influential people.

Cara Delevingne

Supermodel, actress, and singer… it

seems Cara Delevingne has it all.

She was signed to Storm

Management in 2009, but didn’t

break through properly until 2012,

when she walked in all four of the

big Fashion Weeks: New York,

London, Paris, and Milan. She has

since become the face of Rimmel,

and twice won an award for ‘Model

of the Year’ in the British Fashion

Awards.

Their reputation is undeniably

befitting. To be a model is to work

with dedication, and a lot of

willpower. The industry is known

to be controversial, at best. To rise

to power, one must be determined

to look past every rejection and

heartless comment. It is not an easy

ride. But then again, perhaps that’s

why we call them ‘super’.

You can read more of Ruth’s work

on Instagram by following

@thewriterruth.

Images via WikiMedia Commons

PAGE 120


Q

&

THE BIG QUESTION

A

What's one fashion

We asked, you answered

show you'd love to see

I want to go back in time and see an

Alexander McQueen show from the man

himself!

- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

in person?

“I would love to see a Dior or Chanel show -

but only if I could wear their clothes in the

front row!”

- Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant

“SAVAGE X FENTY”

– Anna Marie, Fashion Student

“YEEZY!”

- Jack, Sales Manager

“I would honestly love to see any LFW show

now that we're able to again, I'll take anything!”

– Louise Jensen, Fashion Buyer

“I would love to see

something at Milan

Fashion Week. I'm

not picky!”

- Cal J, Musician

“Joshua Kane!”

– Jared Rehal, Operations

Manager

“Viktor and Rolf shows never

disappoint, I love how creative they

are!”

– Jenny, Model

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question


L O N D O N R U N W A Y

A N T H O L O G Y 2 0 2 0

LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK/BOOK

only two copies left in stock - get yours now!


THE LFW ISSUE NEXT: THE DRESS-UP ISSUE

FIND LONDON RUNWAY:

LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

@LONDONRUNWAYMAG

INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK

BACK COVER: RABI SULTAN

BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA

RUBIN

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