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ISSUE 66<br />
27TH SEPTEMBER 2021<br />
AJOY SAHU INTERVIEW . MODEL COACH ADVICE . UNDERRATED SNEAKER BUYS . DES O CONNORS MODELS<br />
PAUL COSTELLOE . BORA AKSU . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MARK FAST . TIGER OF SWEDEN . AADNEVIK . LFW<br />
THE LFW ISSUE<br />
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk<br />
Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk<br />
Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk<br />
Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino<br />
Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra<br />
Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek<br />
Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas<br />
Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft, Thomas<br />
Woods<br />
Advertising inquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk<br />
Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit<br />
Contributors: Brechó Babado Fashion, Negah Anna, Edien Black, Wilson Vitorino, Latta Pathak, Karolina<br />
Nowak, Janete Zenlinda, Tatiana Porembova Bridal, Hali London, Tarz London, Shoes by Larisa, Saint<br />
Beth, Honey V Tiaras Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, Crystal Crafts Bouquets, Lahore Karahi Tooting, Alissa<br />
Schrag, Dekaya Hewlett, Lois J Elise, Юлия Джемова, Ariadna Golubeva, Vera Lipunova, Artem Sigaev,<br />
Saveliy Molchanov, Габриэль Оганян, Sofia Somova, Zarina And Marina Дарья Шевченко, Eva Cass,<br />
Josephine Landry, Alison Leitao, Emma Lynch, Anne Marie Costantino, Julia McDonough, Charis<br />
Michelsen, Ivie Akira, Ayla Imogen, Lacey Rae, Lara Jane, Scarlett, Stephany Ioana, Tylda, Vivienne<br />
Monique, Ysabella Kristeen, Anne Wilkinson, Be Unique Be You, Ram Eagle, Elena Berezhnova, Maria<br />
Konakova, Anastasia Gorishna, Enplanafro, Sarah Lily, Liudka, Ozoda Muminova, Kirsty Spence, Pawel<br />
Majewski, Sandra Salamon, Klaudia Kotlarz, Katarzyna Kriger, Nikolina Holuk, Jagoda Biegala, Victoria<br />
Tadej, Marta Chrostowska, Anna Guzak, Nell Malczuk<br />
Special thanks to Ajoy Sahu, Dyelog PR, and Maxine Griffiths<br />
Interested in working with us?<br />
We currently have internships available in the following positions:<br />
Staff Writers<br />
Staff Illustrator<br />
Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk<br />
© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors<br />
Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd<br />
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission<br />
from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors<br />
and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.<br />
Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene<br />
PAGE 1
CONTENTS<br />
VISUALS<br />
Bora Aksu<br />
Edward Crutchley<br />
Atelier Tammam<br />
Paul Costello Presentation<br />
No Flow Do Babad (Editorial)<br />
Two Weddings (Cover Editorial)<br />
Sirens (Editorial)<br />
New Faces<br />
Portfolio Piece: Red Children<br />
Mark Fast<br />
Tiger of Sweden<br />
Aadnevik<br />
Style (Conscious) Guide: Inspired<br />
by LFW<br />
Gowns N' Roses - Be Unique Be You<br />
1 1<br />
6<br />
10<br />
12<br />
14<br />
16<br />
21<br />
34<br />
43<br />
49<br />
55<br />
59<br />
62<br />
66<br />
70<br />
Africa Fashion Awards: Kande<br />
Collection<br />
La Dama Lingerie<br />
Miss Polski UK & Ireland<br />
WORDS<br />
An Exploration into Our<br />
Emotional Attachment to Clothes<br />
Interview: Ajoy Sahu<br />
Walk Talk: The Ins and Outs of<br />
Model Training with Maxine<br />
Griffiths<br />
Beauty Expert, Author, and<br />
Actress, Charis Michelsen Shares<br />
How to Utilise the Hottest<br />
Runway Fashion and Makeup<br />
Trends to Maximise your Physical<br />
Appeal<br />
Alexander McQueen Romantic<br />
Darkness<br />
Underated Sneakers That You<br />
Need for the Upcoming Season<br />
112<br />
114<br />
116<br />
4<br />
15<br />
30<br />
51<br />
67<br />
81<br />
U R Not Ur Emotions (Editorial)<br />
Beauty Veil (Editorial)<br />
Des O'Connors<br />
Best of Both Boutique<br />
83<br />
89<br />
94<br />
102<br />
Des O'Connors Live Catwalk<br />
Auditions<br />
Your Style Horoscope<br />
The Most Iconic Supermodels of<br />
All Time<br />
93<br />
104<br />
118<br />
London Accessory Week<br />
108<br />
The Big Question<br />
121
Editor's<br />
letter<br />
LFW is back, back, back again! And this<br />
time, we actually mean it. When we say<br />
we were excited to get back to going to<br />
shows, it’s like saying the Pope might<br />
believe in God a little bit. In other<br />
words, it’s just about the<br />
understatement of the year.<br />
every season, there are still things going<br />
on all the time. That’s part of the fun of<br />
living in London as a fashion fan! Make<br />
sure to check those out: they might not<br />
enjoy the same level of publicity and<br />
hype, but small designers still have a lot<br />
to say.<br />
And if you doubted it at all, you<br />
might not have seen the images from<br />
the recent Met Gala. Everyone’s been<br />
talking about AOC wearing THAT ‘tax<br />
the rich’ dress – proof, if any was<br />
needed, that fashion can be as<br />
political as any creative discipline.<br />
We have some live coverage from<br />
events this issue, and we’ll bring you<br />
even more in our next issue as well –<br />
because there’s just too much goodness<br />
to restrict it to the page count we’re<br />
allowed! That includes designer<br />
interviews and lots of gorgeous<br />
photographs from our in-house team,<br />
Fil, Ian, and MJ.<br />
We’ve got some of the latest shows from<br />
before fashion week for you as well:<br />
even though the eyes of the world may<br />
turn on our capital for a few days<br />
Talking of having a lot to say, this issue<br />
we explore the history of a dearly<br />
departed designer whose collections<br />
always reflected how he felt about the<br />
world around him: Alexander McQueen.<br />
You might wonder why we spend so<br />
much time looking into the history of<br />
fashion, when there's so much newness<br />
happening all the time...<br />
But, as we’ll see, fashion is much more<br />
than a way of dressing – it’s a way to<br />
interface with the world, expressing<br />
yourself and your ideals.<br />
We’ve plenty of inspiring looks<br />
served up for you this issue, so get<br />
stuck in and start fantasising about<br />
your new post-lockdown wardrobe<br />
(and let’s see if we really ARE postlockdown…<br />
but that’s a whole other<br />
topic!). As you do, consider what<br />
your clothes can say to the world –<br />
and remember that if you want to<br />
wear your heart on your sleeve,<br />
there’s no better way than to insist on<br />
clothing that is both fashionable and<br />
sustainable.<br />
Enjoy -<br />
RHIANNON D'AVERC<br />
PAGE 3
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
AN EXPLORATION INTO OUR<br />
EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT<br />
TO CLOTHES<br />
This issue, Katie Abson explores our<br />
attachment to clothes and why letting<br />
them go is so hard.<br />
We all have that one item of clothing<br />
that we just can’t let go of, no matter<br />
how old, damaged, or dated. Even if<br />
we know we’ll never wear it again –<br />
we don’t have the heart to say<br />
goodbye. Perhaps it’s the shirt we<br />
wore on our first day of university.<br />
Or maybe it’s an ex’s hoodie that still<br />
smells faintly of their aftershave. We<br />
hold on to christening dresses,<br />
wedding gowns, leaver’s day<br />
jumpers, and, theoretically, we’ll<br />
never wear these pieces again. Some<br />
of them might not even fit us<br />
anymore. So, why do we hold on to<br />
them? Why do we emotionally attach<br />
ourselves to clothes? Why are they<br />
so important to us?<br />
We constantly revamp our<br />
wardrobes to suit our evolving style<br />
and latest trends, but most of us<br />
simply don’t have the storage space<br />
to keep every item of clothing we<br />
purchase throughout the course of<br />
our lives. The dreaded clear-out is a<br />
must, particularly with the changing<br />
seasons. It can be a great way to sell<br />
clothes or donate to charity and to<br />
clear space for our next fashion<br />
season. Although the process can be<br />
freeing and therapeutic, it can<br />
equally be exhausting. Selecting<br />
items to donate or throw away can<br />
be painful, particularly when we feel<br />
a certain attachment to them.<br />
Memories, good and bad, are woven<br />
into the fabric of our clothes, and<br />
parting with a pair of beloved jeans<br />
bought on holiday half a decade ago<br />
can trigger an upsetting response,<br />
despite how worn-out they are.<br />
Because, to some people, it feels like<br />
saying goodbye to that memory or<br />
that part of their lives. When in<br />
reality, they are just a pair of jeans<br />
that are taking up space.<br />
This response, although somewhat<br />
seemingly irrational, is<br />
psychologically very natural.<br />
Studies have shown that our<br />
emotional attachment to clothes<br />
develops early in our childhood. As<br />
early as the age of two, we may not<br />
understand the concept of<br />
ownership, but we certainly feel it.<br />
This evolves into attachment, and<br />
emotions such as jealousy and rage<br />
can be felt in babies when that<br />
object is taken away or given to<br />
someone else. In our teenage years,<br />
possessions begin to expand into a<br />
sense of self and can help boost<br />
self-esteem when confidence<br />
begins to dwindle. As adults,<br />
clothing can become an extension<br />
of ourselves as we begin to<br />
establish our personal style and the<br />
way we present ourselves. Loss of<br />
such items that we associate with<br />
our sense of self can ignite pain<br />
and unhappiness, our attachment<br />
turning into an obsession with<br />
finding what is lost. We are<br />
psychologically wired to claim<br />
objects as our own, later<br />
establishing meaning behind what<br />
belongs to us.<br />
The same goes for holding onto<br />
items once belonging to another<br />
person. If that person is no longer<br />
around or accessible to us, it can<br />
feel as though we are keeping part<br />
of that person with us in the<br />
present day. Our senses are tuned<br />
into clothing, such as touch and<br />
smell, and being able to physically<br />
touch something previously owned<br />
by someone we loved can be the<br />
closest thing we still have to them.<br />
We feel connected to them in some<br />
PAGE 4
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
sort of way. When you really think<br />
about it, it’s perfectly normal to want<br />
to keep possession of such beloved<br />
items.<br />
Family heirlooms that pass through<br />
generations have associations to people<br />
we have never met formally in this<br />
lifetime, but serve to provide us with a<br />
connection to previous family<br />
members. These heirlooms may come<br />
from a time of war, struggle, love or<br />
different countries. Textiles from a<br />
certain time period and clothing made<br />
by brands that no longer exist make us<br />
cherish the item more, as we possess<br />
something that cannot be purchased<br />
anywhere else in the world.<br />
Particularly when a piece of clothing or<br />
jewellery is handmade, such as a<br />
woollen jumper knitted by a great-aunt<br />
or grandparent, the sentimentality for<br />
that object grows deeply within us.<br />
Materials that age well, such as leather,<br />
appeal to us more than a newly bought<br />
item. We search for such items in<br />
vintage stores and charity shops as they<br />
are more aesthetically pleasing to us.<br />
A piece of clothing can go from<br />
something you throw on casually in the<br />
morning to an item you wish to cherish<br />
by the end of the day, depending on the<br />
events that follow. An old summer<br />
dress can turn into the dress you get<br />
engaged in. A satin fitted blazer can<br />
become the item you land your dream<br />
job in. The safekeeping of these clothes<br />
is significant to us as they serve as<br />
reminders of a monumental time in our<br />
lives, and consequently develop into<br />
our ‘lucky’ clothes. One item of clothing<br />
can hold many meanings and<br />
associations with wonderful memories.<br />
We hold onto them as a reminder of<br />
that time, but also in the hope of<br />
repeating similar experiences when we<br />
wear them again.<br />
There is a multitude of reasons why we<br />
find it hard to rid ourselves of clothing.<br />
Memories are as powerful as the<br />
physical object itself, especially when<br />
the memory is heightened by vivid<br />
emotions. There is a certain beauty in<br />
the long-term possession of an item<br />
enveloped with meaning and memory<br />
recognised exclusively by the owner,<br />
and the stories that come along with it.<br />
But be warned – there is a difference<br />
between emotional attachment and<br />
using it as an excuse to hoard clothes!<br />
At one point or another, we must give<br />
in. We can’t keep every piece of<br />
clothing we own forever. And the truth<br />
is, someone might need it more.<br />
So, if the dreaded clear-out is in your<br />
schedule for winter, keep an open mind<br />
when rummaging through your<br />
wardrobe. And if something truly pains<br />
you to let it go – keep it safe. You’ll be<br />
reminded of happy memories when<br />
you find it once again at the back of<br />
your wardrobe in years to come.<br />
Images via Pexels and Unsplash<br />
PAGE 5
Photography by Fil MazzarinoBORA AKSU
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
EDWARD<br />
CRUTCHLEY<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />
@the_mj_studio<br />
PAGE 10
PAGE 11
ATELIER TAMMAM<br />
Photography by Fil Mazzarino<br />
PAGE 12
PAGE 13
PAUL COSTELLOE<br />
PRESENTATION<br />
Photography by Ian Clark<br />
PAGE 14
AJOY SAHU<br />
Amber Johnson spoke to Ajoy Sahu<br />
INTERVIEW<br />
during their LFW presentation to<br />
discover the inspiration behind their<br />
latest shoe collection.<br />
LR: Hello! It's so lovely to meet you,<br />
thank you for having me. So what was<br />
the inspiration behind the collection<br />
and the whole show?<br />
Ajoy Sahu: Actually, the whole brand is<br />
based on the poppies. [The fitting and<br />
construction] are all inspired by the<br />
poppy seeds, you know, the seeds inside<br />
the poppy pod when they dry out. And<br />
when you see the construction shape,<br />
it's kind of like a poppy silhouette with<br />
the seed in it. So this is how we start<br />
designing the shoe construction. With<br />
the kitten heels, we always try to keep<br />
the seeds shape and also in the flat. And<br />
then slowly we evolve the whole<br />
collection into more fluid line ideas. So,<br />
it's based on the original construction to<br />
evolve into all different types of fluid<br />
lines to make very interesting patterns<br />
on the foot. Then we got all these very<br />
special custom made fittings. The poppy<br />
seeds are the most important for our<br />
brand. We’re kind of trying to keep the<br />
whole brand's identity into the<br />
construction, the same concepts.<br />
Hopefully, in the future with the brand<br />
in the market a lot more, even though<br />
people don't know our name, they can<br />
still recognise the shape.<br />
LR: You need that element that stands<br />
out that makes you different from<br />
everyone else, that when you see that<br />
you say "That's that brand!'.<br />
Ajoy Sahu: Yeah, so this is the DNA and<br />
also very unique for the brand.<br />
LR: Did you have any difficulties during<br />
the design process of the whole<br />
collection?<br />
Which really stressed me out. And also<br />
the factory finished, like, a week before,<br />
because we made everything in China.<br />
And I have a production team in China<br />
to help to control the development and<br />
the production. And of course, because<br />
of COVID, I can't really go back to China.<br />
So I have to do limitless video meetings.<br />
I get up really early every day to work<br />
with China time. So, to just really push<br />
the whole collection, because normally,<br />
during the development period, I'll be in<br />
China to develop the whole collection<br />
with the team. Because of COVID I<br />
didn't go back for two years. We really<br />
broke through lots of challenges.<br />
LR: But it makes it all worth it though?<br />
Ajoy Sahu: Yeah. And luckily, we found<br />
a really cool New York showroom to<br />
represent the brand worldwide as well.<br />
So it's really cool. I'm really excited.<br />
LR: Was there anything that you would<br />
have changed or would have done<br />
differently with the collection? Or are<br />
you happy with the outcome?<br />
Ajoy Sahu: I'm really happy with the<br />
outcome. But of course, if I can be there<br />
to develop the production, it would be<br />
really great.<br />
LR: I think it's the perfectionist, you<br />
want to be able to see every single<br />
element of the design and the<br />
construction.<br />
Ajoy Sahu: ...and feel the material and<br />
choose the materials as well.<br />
Ajoy Sahu: Yes, definitely. Because it's<br />
during COVID. So actually, all the<br />
collections just arrived yesterday.
NO FLOW<br />
DO BABAD<br />
Wardrobe - Brechó Babado Fashion @brecho.babadofashion<br />
Styling, model - Negah Anna @negahanna<br />
Hair Stylist, model - Edien Black @edienblack<br />
Photographer - Wilson Vitorino @wilsonvitorino<br />
Accessories - EME Sunglasses @emesunglasses
Two Weddings<br />
Photographer: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio<br />
MUAH: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah<br />
Models: Karolina Nowak @karola3623_; Janete Zelinda @curlylioness<br />
White Bridal gowns: Tatiana Porembova Bridal @tatianaporembovabridal<br />
Red Bridal dress: Hali London @hali.hlondon; Tarz London @tarz_london<br />
Shoes: Shoes by Larisa @shoesbylarisa<br />
Jewellery: Saint Beth @saintbethofficial2; Honey V Tiaras @honeyvtiaras; Jayne Elizabeth Millinery @jayne.Elizabeth.Millinery<br />
Crafts Bouquets and Candle: Crystal Crafts Bouquets @crystalcrafts_bouquets<br />
Location - Lahore Karahi Tooting @lahorekarahitooting
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
WALK TALK: THE INS AND OUTS OF MODEL<br />
TRAINING WITH MAXINE GRIFFITHS<br />
Jessica Carvalho explores the highs and<br />
lows of model training, and just<br />
what it takes to walk the walk, led by<br />
model coach expert Maxine.<br />
Fashion Week unearths a plethora of<br />
things within me. Some of my best<br />
outfits, a finetuned eye for upcoming<br />
trends, and the staggering realisation<br />
that there is a lot more to the modelling<br />
industry than coordinated footfalls. It’s<br />
often too easy to discredit models and<br />
label their craft as simply walking, but<br />
there is an entire blueprint to the art. So,<br />
if you too want to brush up on your<br />
modelling knowledge, I bring you<br />
Maxine Griffiths: creative director,<br />
events coordinator, model coach and<br />
all-around cool girl who’ll give you a<br />
taste of the world of model training.<br />
How would you define The Model<br />
Workshops and model training<br />
to someone who isn't familiar with the<br />
modelling industry?<br />
The Model Workshops was created<br />
initially to give the opportunity to<br />
aspiring models who wanted to get into<br />
the industry of catwalk. As you<br />
know that doesn't always work for<br />
everybody, and when I was trying to<br />
get into the industry, I found that height<br />
was a big problem. I was around<br />
people that were already in the<br />
industry, and I just sat under their wing<br />
and just learned as much as I could<br />
about walking, and because I was a<br />
dancer as well, I mastered how to hold<br />
my posture.<br />
Getting into the industry and doing the<br />
training, I devised the workshops<br />
to educate. To give the opportunity to<br />
those who may not have it or may<br />
not even think that they can get onto a<br />
runway. The opportunities I was<br />
given once I mastered my walk are one<br />
of the reasons why I started the<br />
workshops. To put it simply, The Model<br />
Workshops is there to help<br />
aspiring models to understand their<br />
walk and their posture.<br />
How long have you been training<br />
models and how was The Model<br />
Workshops founded?<br />
About 20 years, comfortably. I've been<br />
training models for shows, events,<br />
and doing lots of things with them,<br />
getting them through [events]. The<br />
Model Workshops was founded based<br />
on a company that was called The<br />
Platform Artist of The Stage, and it was<br />
a place where people could come<br />
in and use the stage for work, hobby,<br />
interests, or just to gain experience.<br />
After that, I looked at all of the elements<br />
of what was on offer when I<br />
started in the industry - anything to do<br />
it, drama, music.<br />
Back then, it wasn't deemed as a<br />
profession, but lo and behold; 35 to 40<br />
years later, people actually have this as a<br />
career! We've got actors,<br />
influencers, singers, dancers doing not<br />
just the stuff that they love but<br />
also what they’re talented at. I<br />
formulated the workshops thinking<br />
they need to be open to a lot of people<br />
who want to understand the stage,<br />
platforms, and runway for an<br />
educational purpose. Not enticing you<br />
with the glitz and glam, but giving you<br />
realistic experience, realistic situations<br />
that may occur, learning what the<br />
runway is, learning terminologies,<br />
learning speech, and the right words.<br />
You might not know what a portfolio<br />
is, what does it mean to have a deck - a<br />
lot of girls and guys, they don't actually<br />
know, especially if they're new into the<br />
industry! I see the workshops as a safe<br />
space that you can work within, get<br />
experience, get hands on [help] from the<br />
professionals I collaborate with, so you<br />
can get to the next level if you want to.<br />
I was going to say that it's really nice to<br />
have a safe space, especially for starting<br />
models.<br />
That’s what I’m about, safe spaces.<br />
Having safe having spaces that you<br />
PAGE 30
can go into with no experience or as<br />
much experience, and you can share<br />
knowledge knowing that everybody<br />
will be up to the same level, and<br />
nobody will know more than someone<br />
else. Otherwise, you'd come in<br />
thinking that you know it all and not<br />
actually assume you're coming to<br />
learn; you’re coming to take away<br />
something that you can implement<br />
practically and realistically into your<br />
next step on your journey within the<br />
industry.<br />
Would you say model training is “one<br />
size fits all” or is it a is a<br />
tailored experience important?<br />
A tailored experience for me is<br />
important, very tailored. That's one of<br />
the elements that we have; our more<br />
intense workshops like Runway Ready,<br />
Own It for Yourself, I came up with the<br />
content that goes within it. No two<br />
people walk the same. No two models<br />
walk the same.<br />
I've just recently finished working with<br />
Des O'Connor on his live catwalk<br />
auditions, and I found that even then,<br />
we had so many women from<br />
different walks of life, some who never<br />
graced the catwalk before or did<br />
anything like that prior. [The workshops<br />
are] about allowing them to<br />
understand how to walk confidently,<br />
how to own a room when you go into<br />
it, how to put on a pair of 4’5-inch heels<br />
and be able to stay in them for<br />
longer than an hour. To be able to get<br />
your heels out and express yourself<br />
because, as women, we all like a pair of<br />
shoes.<br />
The day and age that we live in now is<br />
so fast paced that someone can<br />
present photos on Instagram, get a few<br />
likes, and then suddenly, they<br />
think based on their looks or great<br />
figure, that's going to lead them to the<br />
job. A lot of girls don’t like to do the<br />
training because they think they've<br />
got enough experience, but in certain<br />
parts of the industry, you really<br />
have to put the hard work in.<br />
Everything needs teachers, none of us<br />
know everything, and I had to sit under<br />
some really good gurus and teachers to<br />
even be where I am today.<br />
With that said, have you witnessed an<br />
opinion change at the workshops? For<br />
example, someone who came in<br />
expecting it to be useless, but leaving<br />
with a completely different opinion?<br />
Hell yeah! People have come in thinking<br />
this was really simple, and then<br />
they’d say “I never knew walking could<br />
be so hard”, and I'm thinking yes!<br />
Some people have it naturally, but<br />
everybody can always do with a brush<br />
up. It's like most things in life, but look<br />
at any model whatsoever; look at<br />
what they do behind the scenes.<br />
We’ve gotten so used to wearing<br />
trainers and chilling out that people<br />
don't dress up anymore. With<br />
The Model Workshops, I have a tailormade<br />
package for every individual<br />
that comes through the door. I take my<br />
time, I look at them, and we just<br />
work it through; I guarantee that<br />
anybody that attends one of the<br />
workshops will definitely come out<br />
walking a lot taller than they came in.<br />
Do you think there are a lot of<br />
misconceptions about the hard<br />
work that goes into model training both<br />
for the trainer and the trainee?<br />
Not just model training, anything! If you<br />
want to be a scientist, somebody's going<br />
to have to teach you the ins and outs<br />
and the mechanics of it. If you want to<br />
become a doctor, you will go to the<br />
necessary colleges, complete the<br />
training.
They have eating and fitness regimes,<br />
they have things that they do to make<br />
sure that they stay on top of their<br />
game. You're not always going to see it,<br />
and it's not always posted - though I<br />
think more recently you kind of see<br />
what a lot of the high end [models] are<br />
doing behind the scenes - even down to<br />
their make-up. Some girls don’t know<br />
how to do their make-up, and you<br />
should know how to do the basics. I<br />
sometimes just feel that a lot of those<br />
stepping into the industries of fashion,<br />
music, and entertainment don't feel they<br />
have to put any work, that it’s just based<br />
on looks and likes. But, disappointment,<br />
heartbreak, it’s all part of the<br />
experience.<br />
Like most fields of work, it doesn’t<br />
sound like a linear growth at all.<br />
Tears, lots of tears. Lots of<br />
disappointment, lots of rejection. When<br />
you get that kind of rejection, you think<br />
“oh, I don't want to do this anymore, I<br />
can't do it”, but there's always<br />
somebody somewhere that can see<br />
potential, it just depends on how hard<br />
you work. There are models that<br />
I've met, and I thought “three to four<br />
months with me and by the time I’m<br />
finished with you, I'll have you walking<br />
certain shows”. You can get testimonials<br />
- even this season, a young lady hadn’t<br />
walked in two years since we've been in<br />
lockdown and I got to witness her walk,<br />
and it's just nice to see when the girls get<br />
to another level. I can actually tell the<br />
difference of those that had been<br />
trained. Those taking the time to be<br />
coached and those that have taken time<br />
to be trained, coached, and mentored<br />
through their journey until they get to a<br />
point where they think “I've taken all<br />
the help I could, I'm ready to go to the<br />
next stage, and I can do that on my<br />
own”.<br />
How did being trained shape your<br />
career?<br />
I knew I wanted to do performing arts,<br />
and I took my time and wanted to<br />
learn about everything; from<br />
production, lighting, to set design and<br />
sound. I just wanted to learn it all, some<br />
people only like one element of the<br />
fashion shows and it’s the one that we<br />
usually see. But there's so much that<br />
goes on behind the scenes, like with<br />
London Fashion Week, what you<br />
see in the magazines, on music videos;<br />
there are such great people<br />
behind the scenes really putting their<br />
hard work in, and some of the time<br />
they don’t even get paid their rates. I<br />
find it quite sad because some of<br />
these companies have the budget to<br />
help people but choose not to at all,<br />
even though these people are<br />
indispensable to the industry.<br />
Take me through a day of training;<br />
what can be expected from the moment<br />
training with you begins, right until the<br />
end?<br />
I’d be giving away my secrets!<br />
If it's all day, we have courses which are<br />
broken down into series. They range<br />
from Handle Your Heels, which is one<br />
of my favourites because it is for<br />
women and men, with no restrictions<br />
on height, gender, or race - just bring<br />
your heels and make sure they’re over<br />
four inches. There's something about<br />
when you put your shoes on before you<br />
leave the house and you just feel<br />
dressed, you feel complete. That's one of<br />
the other reasons why I created Handle<br />
Your Heels, because I just feel there is<br />
a level of empowerment that comes<br />
with wearing a pair of heels, your shoes<br />
are fantastic, your bag, your clothing.<br />
When I was developing the<br />
course, I looked at how I how I wanted<br />
to feel if I was coming along, what<br />
is the journey I want to take people on,<br />
so at the end of the three and a<br />
half hours that we were together, you<br />
leave with something you can<br />
implement into the rest of your journey.<br />
I also have Feel Like a Woman, Walk<br />
Like a Boss. That's more for<br />
empowering women to be bosses in<br />
their own right, but also maintain<br />
their morals, have integrity, know that<br />
you're strong enough to do it but<br />
also weak enough to stay feminine at<br />
the same time. I don’t mean this in<br />
a derogative way, but female<br />
empowerment sometimes is very “I can<br />
do all this by myself”, but the truth is<br />
that need your community. No man is<br />
an island, as my parents always said.<br />
PAGE 32
Apart from getting these models further<br />
in their career, what is<br />
the most fulfilling part of model training<br />
for you?<br />
Their success is my success. After the<br />
training session with me, having the<br />
coaching and the mentoring, I know<br />
that when they step into an arena,<br />
they are walking comfortably and<br />
walking proud knowing that they’ve got<br />
this, so that means I've been successful.<br />
Though training is very good for<br />
finetuning skills, do you think it<br />
is an essential step towards success or<br />
can it be skipped (due to financial issues,<br />
lack of time etc.)?<br />
Anything that anybody wants out of life,<br />
you’ll make time for. We can always use<br />
the excuse of “I don't have the time” or<br />
“financially, I can't”, and I understand it<br />
with coming out of a lockdown into a<br />
new normal, but if you want to be as<br />
good as you can be, or you want to be<br />
the best at what you are doing, you will<br />
make time. It will then determine your<br />
commitment, level of experience,<br />
professionalism, and everything else<br />
that comes with the industry.<br />
Do you have any words of<br />
encouragement for models hoping to<br />
get into training?<br />
Come and see me! To date, I don’t know<br />
of any other woman that is doing<br />
what I do; training is an integral part of<br />
success in this industry, and often<br />
I see a lot of flaws as a consultant<br />
myself. The big agencies can only take<br />
a certain number of models of colour,<br />
models with ginger hair; training will<br />
ensure that they see you as someone<br />
worth their while, and someone<br />
worth representing them. Training will<br />
get your foot in the door.<br />
So, should you itch for a heaped<br />
spoonful of female empowerment with<br />
a sprinkle of first-class discipline, let me<br />
know. I know just who to call.<br />
You can find more of Jessica’s work on<br />
her Instagram @whatjesstypes.<br />
Follow Maxine on Instagram<br />
@the_model_workshops for castings,<br />
advice, and news about upcoming<br />
sessions.<br />
What are some things that models<br />
trained by you went on to do?<br />
Magazines, videos, large Fashion Week<br />
shows in Paris, Milan, New York.<br />
Since we had the Black Lives Matter<br />
movement, as a British-born black<br />
woman, I feel we have a lot more<br />
visibility we didn't have before. I'm<br />
actually seeing people in adverts, doing<br />
things and I'm thinking “Yep, remember<br />
you when you came”, and I’m genuinely<br />
very happy and excited to see where it<br />
goes from here.<br />
Just being part of what happened<br />
in the past two years and part of the<br />
Windrush generation as well, watching<br />
the work that my parents put in all<br />
those years ago so that we could have a<br />
say; it's amazing to witness people that<br />
have gone on and on to be better, be<br />
greater and have the time of their life on<br />
the runway of life.<br />
The doors that don’t open, you kick<br />
them open!
Sirens<br />
Accessory Designer/Other/Fashion Designer/Retoucher/Photographer: Eva Cass @evamaedesigns<br />
Models: Josephine Landry @josie.landry; Alison Leitao @alileitao; Emma Lynch @emma.lynch<br />
Assistant: Anne Marie Costantino @anniecostaa21<br />
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Photographer: Julia McDonough @mcdonoughjulia<br />
All wardrobe by Eva Cass<br />
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, jewellery - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Emma wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, and concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded, hand-dyed suit - Eva Cass
Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass
Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.
Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
NEW FACE: ALISSA<br />
Name: Alissa Schrag<br />
Age: 19<br />
Location: Switzerland/Zurich<br />
Agency: Freelance (Muse of Marti)<br />
Agent: Christoph Marti<br />
How long have you been modelling<br />
for?<br />
My "career" as a model started at the<br />
beginning of the year. I was contacted<br />
by various photographers for shoots<br />
via Instagram and then had the<br />
opportunity to work with Robert<br />
Ramseier in Switzerland. Now I have<br />
about 5 photo shoots which I can list<br />
as experience - but there are many<br />
great projects planned. Being in front<br />
of the camera has always been a big<br />
dream of mine.<br />
Where are you from originally?<br />
I grew up and was born in beautiful<br />
Switzerland in the middle of Europe.<br />
Do you have an unusual talent or<br />
party trick?<br />
Besides modelling, painting is one of<br />
my great passions. I have discovered<br />
this talent and can no longer let my<br />
fingers from brushes. When painting I<br />
can give free rein to my creativity.<br />
Therefore, I also like modelling - I am<br />
a very artistic person<br />
What would surprise people to know<br />
about you?<br />
I am a very determined and focused<br />
person. When I set my mind on<br />
something, I want to achieve it.<br />
Whether it's modelling or my passion<br />
of drawing where I can work without<br />
problems 7 hours at a time to get the<br />
right result. In addition, I am someone<br />
who can talk well.<br />
What are your modelling ambitions?<br />
My goal would be to have a range.<br />
Since one month I am the muse of<br />
Christoph Marti - the Swiss<br />
photographer - and I want to work<br />
out a way with him to become better<br />
known. The next steps are certainly<br />
magazine publications that will come<br />
in the next few months and my<br />
dreams are to be a cover photo on<br />
Vogue or on big ads.<br />
Studio: Studio 1<br />
Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti<br />
Model: Alissa @chupxcabra<br />
Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé<br />
Alissa wears: Diesel; The Kooples; Dolce & Gabbana<br />
PAGE 44
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
NEW FACE: DEKAYA<br />
Name: Dekaya Hewlett<br />
Age: 19<br />
Location: Huntsville, Alabama<br />
Agency: Pama Models<br />
How long have you been modelling<br />
for?<br />
I’ve been modeling for 2 months.<br />
Where are you from originally?<br />
I’m originally from Huntsville,<br />
Alabama.<br />
Do you have an unusual talent or<br />
party trick?<br />
My unusual talent is being myself,<br />
that simple quality isn’t normalized in<br />
today’s society.<br />
What would surprise people to know<br />
about you?<br />
People will be surprised to know I<br />
graduated high school at 16 at the top<br />
of my class.<br />
What are your modelling ambitions?<br />
I’m very ambitious about being in<br />
Vogue one day.<br />
Hair Stylist: Pretty Dolls Collection @prettydolls.collection<br />
Makeup Artist: Makemiup @makemiup<br />
Model: Dekaya Hewlett at Pama Models @xjunodkaayy_<br />
Photographer: Pama Models @pamamodels<br />
PAGE 46
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
NEW FACE: LOIS<br />
Name: Lois J Elise<br />
Age: 29<br />
Location: London<br />
Agency: Unique Models London<br />
How long have you been modelling<br />
for?<br />
3 years<br />
Where are you from originally?<br />
Windsor, UK<br />
Do you have an unusual talent or<br />
party trick?<br />
I can speak Japanese! I have studied<br />
the language since I was 13.<br />
What would surprise people to know<br />
about you?<br />
I have a PhD in Japanese cinema and<br />
fashion history, and am also a<br />
qualified passenger boat captain.<br />
What are your modelling ambitions?<br />
I want my modelling to inspire others<br />
to enjoy fashion and to feel<br />
comfortable in their own skin - I am a<br />
passionate body positivity advocate.<br />
Lois wears: Headband - France Luxe; Dress - Vixen by Micheline Pitt;<br />
Sunglasses - Gucci; Watch - Fitbit; Scarf on bag, silver ring and pearls -<br />
True Vintage Ootd; Pearl ring - Ray Makes Things; Bag - Thrifted<br />
PAGE 48
RED CHILDREN<br />
It is important for me to fall in love with heroes<br />
during photography, otherwise you can't get sincere<br />
shots. I like to photograph children and old people -<br />
both are most open and do not seek to pose.<br />
In my works, I strive to show what is always with us,<br />
but at the same time, it is closed and not given<br />
importance - hugs, family values, belonging to<br />
culture, children's games and memories.<br />
Wardrobe Stylist: Юлия Джемова @julia_jam__<br />
Models: Ariadna Golubeva at Mint Models Russia<br />
@arish_goly; Vera Lipunova @lipunovavera; Artem<br />
Sigaev @artem_sigaev; Saveliy Molchanov<br />
@come.on.savva; Габриэль Оганян @gabriellife26;<br />
Sofia Somova @sofia_somova_; Zarina And Marina<br />
@goldentwins.13<br />
Photographer: Дарья Шевченко @chuda.photo<br />
portfolio<br />
piece
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
BEAUTY EXPERT, AUTHOR, AND ACTRESS<br />
CHARIS MICHELSEN SHARES HOW TO UTILIZE<br />
THE HOTTEST RUNWAY FASHION AND MAKEUP<br />
TRENDS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR PHYSICAL APPEAL<br />
Big lips were in, and lip liner encircled<br />
<br />
Ah, the runway show experience —<br />
inspirational, on-point street style<br />
outside of show venues, the veritable<br />
hyper-stylish elite clocking fellow<br />
stars, the active buzz of top hair and<br />
makeup artists behind-the-scenes as<br />
gorgeous creatures sip champagne and<br />
pick at delicacies while being painted<br />
and coiffed, the hush as the lights shift,<br />
the music pumps, cameras flash, and<br />
the thrilling future of what could<br />
change closets, requests at salons, and<br />
contents of makeup bags is revealed.<br />
For many years, this was the runway<br />
show experience, until things changed<br />
and created an opportunity to<br />
creatively rethink what a runway<br />
show could be. Even when formats<br />
changed and digital shows became<br />
commonplace, the passionate vision<br />
for forecasting the future of fashion<br />
and beauty did not. Designers, those<br />
fine artists who hang their art on the<br />
human canvas, reliably refuse to<br />
compromise showcasing their<br />
creations to the max— thank God.<br />
However, after the show, their visions<br />
should be translated into what is<br />
suitable for each individual to ensure<br />
that physical appeal is maximized.<br />
Understanding what inspires trends,<br />
such as those from past decades, can<br />
give great insight into how to best<br />
creatively utilise them to enhance<br />
physical appeal; one can and should<br />
cherry pick or twist elements of a<br />
trend so it can be personalised.<br />
In a review of current trends, the<br />
nineties are making a reappearance<br />
but with unique and modern twists. In<br />
the 1990s, grunge, glamour, and<br />
minimalism collided head-on, and just<br />
as during the 1960s, when the spirit of<br />
anything goes was the practiced belief,<br />
the 1990s employed a similar attitude,<br />
especially when it came to selfexpression,<br />
individuality, and “just<br />
being who you are.”<br />
the outer perimeter of the lips to help<br />
them appear larger. A more subdued<br />
and neutral colour palette became<br />
standard as “the natural look” came<br />
into style. Eyeliner and eye colours<br />
were soft and subtle. Skin went from<br />
being matte-textured to more natural<br />
and shiny, with shiny giving way to<br />
glittery, funky, and fun everything.<br />
“Heroin chic” and the “waif-look”<br />
were brought in by model Kate Moss,<br />
and emulated, playing a big part in the<br />
decade. Several cosmetic companies<br />
answered the call for the need for<br />
more funky makeup and nail colours.<br />
Small breasts gave way to all sizes of<br />
breasts being in, and a hint of the looks<br />
from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1960s made<br />
their appearance during the decade.<br />
Another decade that is trending, for<br />
the obvious reason, is the twenties. In<br />
the 1920s, short skirts, short hair, and<br />
rebellion were in. Wearing makeup<br />
was taboo before then; however, by<br />
the 1920s, no one fashionable left<br />
home without wearing it.<br />
Pale skin was in, and raspberry or<br />
orange-hued rouge toned down with<br />
facial powder was worn on the cheeks.<br />
The eyes and eyelashes were heavily<br />
defined with dark eye makeup which<br />
was used on the lower eyelash line and<br />
eyelids, as was turquoise or green. The<br />
famous cupid’s bow-shaped lips,<br />
which were permanently pursed in a<br />
“kiss”, inspired by the actress Clara<br />
Bow, were drawn on the lips in reds,<br />
deep reds, brown-reds, plum, oranges,
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
DRESS: Jil Sander Silk Dress In Style RN.<br />
104642 - CA 34767<br />
BELT: Dior Black Belt<br />
NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro In<br />
Baby Love<br />
MAKEUP:<br />
EYES: Dior Backstage - Custom Eye Palette,<br />
Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer In<br />
920/Black Orchid, Milk Makeup KUSH High<br />
Volumizing Mascara<br />
EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge<br />
CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars<br />
Blush In Orgasm<br />
LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip<br />
Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Bobbi<br />
Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In<br />
Pink, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip<br />
Color In Brown<br />
rose, and raspberry in matte-textures.<br />
These products would often be soapbased<br />
and dry out the lips. Liquid<br />
rouge defined the lip shape, like an<br />
early lip liner, and lip colour filled in<br />
the lips. Eyebrows were drawn on in<br />
thin, dark, arched, elongated, and<br />
downward-sloped thin or odd shapes<br />
denoting emotional expression.<br />
Fashion hero Coco Chanel was a<br />
powerful influence in the 1920s and<br />
ushered in the healthy look of a tan,<br />
amongst other style-changing trends.<br />
Orange makeup mimicked the look of<br />
a tan, and legs and smaller breasts<br />
were in.<br />
Besides knowing the history behind a<br />
trend, to pull from it what personally<br />
resonates and inspires, physical<br />
attributes, such as skin undertone,<br />
facial features, and their balance, as<br />
well as personal style are also<br />
important to examine to know how to<br />
best use a trend to one’s advantage. To<br />
determine your facial attributes, view<br />
the videos DISCOVER YOUR FACE<br />
SHAPE, ACHIEVE MAXIMUM<br />
PHYSICAL APPEAL USING FACIAL<br />
DIVISIONS, and others on the CHARIS<br />
MICHELSEN YouTube channel.<br />
For example, if a trending colour does<br />
not work well for your skin’s<br />
undertone and you want to wear it, try<br />
a version of that colour that better<br />
suits you. If orange is trending, and<br />
your skin’s undertone is cool, try<br />
wearing red-orange or red instead of<br />
orange. If bright lip colours are<br />
trending and you look better in darker<br />
lip colours, try mixing a favorite<br />
darker colour with a bright colour that<br />
works well with your skin’s<br />
undertone.<br />
This goes for the placement of<br />
cosmetics as well. If you have closespaced<br />
eyes and it is trending to<br />
encircle the eyes with eyeliner, bypass<br />
applying the eyeliner to the inner<br />
upper and lower third of your eyes or<br />
only apply light colours of eyeliner to<br />
this area.<br />
There is a science to looking one’s best,<br />
which was perfected through the<br />
world’s first Universal Beauty<br />
Standard System which was used to<br />
create the illustrated and<br />
comprehensive beauty books<br />
Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star<br />
Makeup and Grooming For Men: From<br />
Dirty to polished. These books instruct<br />
on how to look your personal best by<br />
PAGE 52
using easy-to-follow cosmetic<br />
techniques and offering original tips,<br />
such as the timeless “four-point rule”<br />
to ensure your maximum physical<br />
appeal is achieved no matter what is<br />
trending on the runway.<br />
The following is an excerpt about the<br />
“four-point rule” from Hollywood<br />
Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup:<br />
THE FOUR-POINT RULE:<br />
Count each “point of interest” as one<br />
point.<br />
NOTE: You can choose to wear fewer<br />
“points of interest” than four but not<br />
more than four if you do not want to<br />
look overstated. If garments of the<br />
same colour are worn together as if<br />
they are one continuous piece, their<br />
point total would equal one.<br />
For example, if you wear boots, pants,<br />
and a top in the same colour of bright<br />
orange, where there are no breaks in<br />
colour, where you do not see skin or<br />
another colour, those pieces working<br />
together would equal one point.<br />
“POINTS OF INTEREST”:<br />
A viewer’s eyes are drawn to look at:<br />
1: Vibrant makeup.<br />
2: Dark makeup.<br />
3: Light-reflective makeup or opaque<br />
matte-textured makeup (other than a<br />
concealer, foundation, or powder).<br />
4: Hairstyles that appear “done”/any<br />
hairstyle that requires hairspray or<br />
another product to hold it in place, etc<br />
5: Busy patterns of clothing or clothing<br />
that contains embellishments or<br />
ornate details, such as multiple<br />
zippers, ruffles, etc.<br />
6: Articles of clothing that are<br />
revealing.<br />
7: Shoes, clothing, and/or accessories<br />
in bold “statement” colours, such as<br />
red, etc.<br />
8: Accessories in general, such as hats,<br />
bracelets, etc.<br />
MAKEUP:<br />
Both makeup “LOOK #2” and “LOOK<br />
#3” count as one point. The point of<br />
interest will be your lips in “LOOK #2”<br />
and your eyes in “LOOK #3.” “LOOK<br />
#1” counts as zero points, as the face<br />
has no points of interest. NOTE:<br />
“LOOK #4” counts as two points, as<br />
your lips and eyes are both points of<br />
interest. See chapter THE FOUR BASIC<br />
FACES for additional information.<br />
EXAMPLE 1:<br />
You can wear a bold ruffled blouse (+1<br />
point), simple blue jeans (+0 points),<br />
brightly coloured shoes (+1 point), a<br />
statement ring (+1 point), a simple<br />
black handbag (+0 points), and makeup<br />
LOOK #2 (+1 points) = 4 points.<br />
Variation example:<br />
If you want to wear a bold handbag (+1<br />
point), choose to wear makeup LOOK<br />
#1 (+ 0 points) = 4 points.<br />
EXAMPLE 2:<br />
You can wear a simple black dress (+0<br />
points), simple black pumps (+0<br />
1920s Makeup<br />
1990s Makeup<br />
THE FOUR-POINT<br />
RULE: EXAMPLE 2<br />
(From The Book<br />
Hollywood Beauty:<br />
The Art Of Star<br />
Makeup By Charis<br />
Michelsen)
points), a colourful clutch (+1 point),<br />
layered, bold necklaces (+1 point), a<br />
bold bracelet (+1 point), and makeup<br />
LOOK #3 (+1 point) = 4 points.<br />
Variation example:<br />
Trade the simple black dress for a<br />
patterned one (+ 1 point), and take off<br />
the necklaces (+ 0 points) = 4 points.<br />
Stick with the “Four Point Rule” and<br />
add up your points. By not exceeding<br />
four “points of interest” at any given<br />
time, you will always look your best.<br />
Also, consider the inspiration for a<br />
runway trend and your personal<br />
needs when styling the fabulous you.<br />
More information and examples<br />
available in Hollywood Beauty: The<br />
Art of Star Makeup by Charis<br />
Michelsen.<br />
In forecasting the future of fashion<br />
and beauty, the vote is for the<br />
maximization of one’s physical appeal<br />
and consciousness will always be in<br />
style— the more one chooses healthy<br />
and cruelty-free fashion and cosmetic<br />
products, the better. Some<br />
inspirational style icons who have<br />
made fashion and beauty their own,<br />
no matter the trends, are Gabrielle<br />
Coco Chanel, Jacklyn Kennedy<br />
Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Jimi<br />
Hendrix, Ali MacGraw, Steve<br />
McQueen, David Bowie, Tom Ford,<br />
Sarah Jessica Parker, and Victoria<br />
Beckham. Remember that following<br />
runway trends is not mandatory.<br />
If you love a specific look, and it is not<br />
“in” at the moment, do not let that<br />
deter you from embracing it; at some<br />
point, you might be the one starting a<br />
hot new trend that will be seen on the<br />
runway!<br />
For more information and to view<br />
videos from Charis Michelsen, be sure<br />
to like, subscribe, or follow her on her<br />
social media channels:<br />
YouTube channel: CHARIS<br />
MICHELSEN<br />
Instagram: @charismichelsen_official<br />
TikTok: charismichelsen_official<br />
Facebook: official.charismichelsen<br />
Twitter: OfficialCharisM<br />
Official Website: charismichelsen.com<br />
How to contact Charis Michelsen:<br />
AGENT: Sheila Finegan<br />
sheila@trinityartist.com<br />
MANAGER: Jeff Smith<br />
jeff@trinityartist.com<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel Weber<br />
@danielweber_photography<br />
MODEL, MAKEUP, STYLING: Charis<br />
Michelsen @charismichelsen_official<br />
HAIR: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton<br />
Salon Of Beverly Hills @hairbysylvie<br />
ARTWORK: Charis Michelsen (From<br />
The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art<br />
Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)<br />
charismichelsen.com<br />
THE FOUR-POINT RULE:<br />
EXAMPLE 1<br />
(From The Book Hollywood<br />
Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup<br />
By Charis Michelsen)
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
MARK FAST Photography<br />
by Fil Mazzarino<br />
PAGE 55
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
PAGE 56
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
PAGE 57
PAGE 58
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
TIGER OF<br />
SWEDEN<br />
Photography by Fil Mazzarino<br />
PAGE 59
PAGE 60
PAGE 61
AADNEVIK<br />
Photography by Ian Clark<br />
PAGE 62
PAGE 63
PAGE 64
STYLE<br />
(CONSCIOUS)<br />
GUIDE<br />
ethical and sustainable style guide<br />
selected by Cicilia Brognoli<br />
Matches Fashion<br />
Sequinned<br />
cropped top<br />
£430.00<br />
Rejina Pyo<br />
Volume Hoops Gold<br />
Plated with Blue Enamel<br />
£195.00<br />
Browns Fashion<br />
Fauna Floral<br />
Print Dress<br />
£220.00<br />
Mother of Pearl<br />
Esther black daisy<br />
dress<br />
£395.00<br />
Molly Goddard<br />
Sendai Bag Red Pink<br />
£420.00<br />
Matches Fashion<br />
Asymmetric wool<br />
and lurex sweater<br />
dress<br />
£1,170.00<br />
Rejina Pyo<br />
Hattie Dress<br />
Organic Cotton<br />
Print Flower Amber<br />
£650<br />
Browns Fashion<br />
Fleur Lace Maxi Dress<br />
£650.00<br />
H&M Conscious<br />
shaping swimsuit<br />
£24.99<br />
Yuhan Wang<br />
AISTE rose lace tiered<br />
skirt<br />
£529.00<br />
Erdem<br />
Small Crystal Knot<br />
Clip Earrings<br />
£295.00<br />
Molly Goddard<br />
Jimmy Dress Pink<br />
£1,300.00<br />
Rejina Pyo<br />
Malia Sandals<br />
Leather Orange<br />
£395.00<br />
INSPIRED BY LFW<br />
PAGE 66<br />
Yuhan Wang<br />
Draped jacquard trousers<br />
£510.00
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN<br />
ROMANTIC DARKNESS<br />
This month, Cicilia illustrates the<br />
history of one of the most famous<br />
British fashion houses, Alexander<br />
McQueen. Many of you probably<br />
know this name very well. For those<br />
who have recently landed on the<br />
fashion planet, this brand’s fame<br />
spiked as their oversized trainers<br />
were the most popular womenswear<br />
item in 2019.<br />
Lee Alexander McQueen, founder of<br />
the eponymous company, was born<br />
in 1969 in Lewisham. His father was a<br />
Scottish taxi driver who instilled in<br />
him a deep love for his homeland,<br />
and his mother was a social science<br />
teacher. In addition to Scotland, one<br />
of his passions and artistic<br />
inspirations was birds. In fact, as a<br />
young man, he was a member of the<br />
Young Ornithologists' Club.<br />
McQueen was not very keen on<br />
school, and at the age of sixteen, he<br />
dropped out to devote himself to<br />
tailoring. He immediately landed in<br />
the famous Saville Row by chance or<br />
talent, where he did an<br />
apprenticeship. Between the ages of<br />
sixteen and twenty, he had many<br />
work experiences. For example, he<br />
worked as a theatrical costumier for<br />
Angels and Bermans, where he<br />
created the costumes for the Les<br />
Misérables show. After that, he<br />
moved to Milan working for Romeo<br />
Gigli and later returned to attend<br />
Central Saint Martins.<br />
In fact, given his innate talent, he<br />
coveted the position of pattern<br />
cutter tutor; however, he was too<br />
young to teach. In 1992 he enrolled<br />
in an MA. His graduation<br />
collection, called Jack the Ripper<br />
Stalks His Victims, was a reckless<br />
success. In fact, the stylist Isabella<br />
Blow bought all the outfits. She had<br />
a massive influence on the future<br />
success of the British designer; she<br />
persuaded him to use his middle<br />
name, Alexander. This was a<br />
marketing strategy and, at the same<br />
time, a trick to prevent the job<br />
centre he was affiliated with from<br />
finding out he was working. Blow<br />
was a mentor for Alexander<br />
McQueen, and she offered him her<br />
home basement. According to her,<br />
this would have given Alexander a<br />
safe working and living space<br />
without struggling financially and<br />
losing his focus on fashion.<br />
<br />
PAGE 67
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
Creating a stir seemed like a hobby<br />
for McQueen, who was later accused<br />
of exalting slavery, sexualising<br />
women, and being a lover of horror.<br />
After the first few years of<br />
controversy, McQueen landed in<br />
the graces of musical celebrities.<br />
He designed the wardrobe for<br />
David Bowie's 1997 tour, which<br />
includes the Union Jack coat. He<br />
also worked with Björk, directing<br />
her music video 'Alarm Call' and<br />
designing a topless dress.<br />
McQueen initially took inspiration for<br />
all of his collections from famous<br />
films. Taxi Driver, his first postgraduation<br />
collection, was based on<br />
Martin Scorsese's film. This was a real<br />
success, as it introduced the 'bumsters',<br />
also known as low-rise jeans.<br />
McQueen's runways have always been<br />
bold and provocative. So, it's not a<br />
coincidence that he was called 'the<br />
hooligan of English fashion'. The<br />
designer, creative but with a complex<br />
personality, presented the fashion<br />
show Nihilism featuring models<br />
covered with fake blood and bruises.<br />
In 1994, McQueen met Katy England<br />
and decided to make her his righthand<br />
man, or rather his adviser. The<br />
first collection they worked on<br />
together was The Birds, a roadkill<br />
themed catwalk featuring tire marks,<br />
paying homage to Alfred Hitchcock's<br />
film. McQueen's fame, a<br />
misunderstood genius, collected many<br />
negative reviews over the first years.<br />
However, his fame spiked when<br />
Madonna wore her 'bumsters' jeans in<br />
an MTV advert in 1994.<br />
At the age of thirty, McQueen was<br />
named Head of Design for<br />
Givenchy, following the departure<br />
of John Galliano. The Count Hubert<br />
de Givenchy was by no means<br />
happy with this, considering<br />
McQueen utterly inappropriate for<br />
his fashion house. McQueen's<br />
debut for Givenchy was with the<br />
Spring / Summer 1997 collection, a<br />
homage to ancient Greece. As<br />
refined as it was, teeming with<br />
white and gold, it differed from<br />
Galliano's lavish collections.<br />
Fake blood appeared very often on<br />
McQueen's catwalks. In fact,<br />
Highland Rape, a collection aimed at<br />
exposing Scotland's 'rape' at the<br />
hands of England, was a mix of fake<br />
blood and torn apart clothes.<br />
Unfortunately, not everyone<br />
understood the show's true<br />
meaning, and McQueen was accused<br />
of misogyny as many thought it<br />
referred to the rape of women.
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
Back in London, he designed the It's a<br />
Jungle out There collection, inspired<br />
by gazelles daily hunted by lions. He<br />
empathised a lot with these savannah<br />
victims. Although he felt oppressed by<br />
the fashion industry with its negative<br />
reviews on his past collections, the<br />
new one was a success. He rode the<br />
wave of positive reviews and started<br />
to play a lot also with set design.<br />
Indeed, his Spring/Summer 1998<br />
collection, Untitled, was presented on<br />
a catwalk made of water and yellow<br />
lights, while the next one had a<br />
masked model standing in a circle of<br />
fire.<br />
McQueen didn't actually leave<br />
Givenchy peacefully; in fact, he was<br />
fired. In 2000, he signed an<br />
agreement with Gucci selling 51% of<br />
his own company. The Italian and<br />
French brands were rivals, and for this<br />
reason, Givenchy dismissed him.<br />
This was the only strategy to revive<br />
Alexander McQueen's brand, which<br />
soon opened boutiques worldwide,<br />
expanding to perfume, eyewear<br />
accessories, and menswear. With<br />
considerable financial backing from<br />
Gucci, McQueen continued with his<br />
bold and provocative runways.<br />
His last public appearance was<br />
during the Paris Fashion Week in<br />
February 2009, when he presented<br />
Plato's Atlantis collection. The show<br />
was supposed to be broadcast live<br />
on the internet, but the site crashed<br />
when Lady Gaga tweeted about the<br />
upcoming show.<br />
McQueen had a twisted personality,<br />
often felt misunderstood by others,<br />
and was almost pathologically<br />
introverted. He committed suicide,<br />
as did his mentor Isabella Blow who<br />
died in 2007, at his home in Mayfair<br />
in 2010.<br />
At the time, he only had very few<br />
uncompleted pieces for his<br />
Autumn/Winter 2010 collection,<br />
which were finished by his team.<br />
A handful of fashion editors attended<br />
that show and then reported how<br />
creepy it was to perceive McQueen's<br />
obsession with the afterlife just by<br />
observing those sixteen outfits.<br />
Gucci's financial support ensured the<br />
continuation of the brand and by<br />
Sarah Burton, McQueen's assistant,<br />
who was appointed Creative Director.<br />
Burton designed Catherine<br />
Middleton's wedding dress and won<br />
the prize Designer of the Year during<br />
the 2011 British Fashion Awards.<br />
Although McQueen's ready-towear<br />
is now much more famous<br />
than his first runways, I<br />
recommend you to check out the<br />
incredible shows created by<br />
McQueen himself. His shows'<br />
setting was not just a contour to his<br />
clothes but an externalisation of<br />
the designer's disturbances and<br />
obsessions that could not be<br />
recreated in fabric and<br />
haberdashery.<br />
You can find more of Cicilia's<br />
works by visiting<br />
ciciliabrognoli.com<br />
Images by Cicilia Brognoli from the<br />
Roses exhibition held in the<br />
Alexander McQueen flagship store<br />
in Bond Street from November<br />
2019 to May 2020.
GOWNS N' ROSES<br />
BY BE UNIQUE BE YOU<br />
Models: Ayla Imogen; Ivie Akira; Lacey Rae; Lara Jane; Scarlett; Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana;<br />
Tylda; Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Ysabella Kristeen<br />
<br />
Designer: Anne Wilkinson - Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou<br />
<br />
Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks - @ram.eagle<br />
<br />
Location: Historic Rose Garden, Southsea - Portsmouth
UNDERRATED SNEAKERS THAT YOU NEED<br />
FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON<br />
9: New Balance MADE UK 991<br />
7: Converse x Ambush CTAS Duck Boot<br />
<br />
This week, Thomas Woods details the<br />
best big brand ‘under the radar’<br />
sneakers that will compliment your<br />
autumn and winter wardrobes- whilst<br />
also saving you some pennies.<br />
With streetwear at its highest point of<br />
popularity, everybody wants the latest<br />
and greatest sneakers, which often leads<br />
to the newest releases being hard to<br />
come by. From the front runners such<br />
as Nike and Adidas, to the low profilers<br />
like New Balance and Converse, this list<br />
is what you need to track down those<br />
must-haves. Being a shoe lover myself, I<br />
have compiled the 10 best value for<br />
money unisex sneakers that these<br />
leading shoe brands have to offer for<br />
the upcoming autumn and winter<br />
period.<br />
QUICK TIP: For the best prices on all<br />
these shoes, make sure to check out if<br />
there are any discount codes available<br />
(especially if you’re a student).<br />
(Price): £170.00<br />
(Colourway): green/wine/yellow<br />
With the emergence of the ‘dad’ shoe,<br />
New Balance made its triumphant<br />
return. This chunky 991 was<br />
“constructed for comfort and style”,<br />
with its warm earth tones perfectly<br />
matching the autumnal changing of the<br />
leaves. The shoe’s suede upper adds to<br />
this warm appearance overall and I<br />
believe this would be a great addition to<br />
your collection if you’re willing to<br />
spend a bit extra.<br />
(Price): £84.97<br />
(Colourway): white/black<br />
If we are talking durability, this shoe<br />
goes top of the list. This 2020 release<br />
combines the Converse name with<br />
established luxury brand Ambush to<br />
produce a high-top boot, made up of a<br />
combination of mesh material for<br />
comfort as well as a leather bottom for<br />
durability. At half its original price, this<br />
boot would add a bit of luxury to your<br />
winter wardrobe whilst also not setting<br />
you back too far. It also comes in a<br />
bright blue colourway if you’re feeling<br />
more adventurous!<br />
10: Adidas Originals Samba Vegan Shoes<br />
(Price): £70.00<br />
(Colourway): cloud white/core<br />
black/gum<br />
Nothing like bringing something back, is<br />
there? This classic Adidas silhouette<br />
goes back to 1949 and has been everpresent<br />
since, with the shoe slowly<br />
beginning to re-emerge as a fashionable<br />
favourite for both men and women.<br />
With this planet-friendly iteration, you<br />
get the classic shape and those timeless<br />
three stripes all along with a neutral<br />
colour palette that goes with absolutely<br />
everything. For £70, I think this is a<br />
reliable choice for the upcoming<br />
autumn period.<br />
8: Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage<br />
(Price): £89.95<br />
(Colourway): white/black<br />
A product of the 1970s, the Nike Blazer<br />
Mid ’77 Vintage was originally tested as<br />
a basketball sneaker but eventually<br />
became a staple lifestyle shoe. As a<br />
potential high-top replacement for the<br />
overpriced Jordan 1 silhouette, this shoe<br />
matches with almost anything and will<br />
be certain to keep your ankles warm in<br />
winter. At £90, I think this is a shoe well<br />
worth having... just make sure to use<br />
shoe protector to keep them looking<br />
brand new!<br />
6: Converse Color Vintage Canvas<br />
Chuck 70<br />
(Price): £75.00<br />
(Colourway): deep<br />
bordeaux/egret/black<br />
Not much needs to be said about this<br />
all-time classic shoe... it really is the<br />
definition of timeless. The adaptable<br />
high-top sneaker comes in at sixth place<br />
in a plum-like colourway with an aged<br />
cream bottom. The richness of the<br />
darkish red is bound to integrate<br />
perfectly into your autumnal colour<br />
palettes, and with the lower price-point,<br />
it’s a no-brainer!<br />
PAGE 81
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
2. Nike Lahar Low<br />
(Price): £114.95<br />
(Colourway):<br />
hemp/grain/orange/smoke<br />
5: Nike Free Run Trail<br />
(Price): £109.95<br />
(Colourway): driftwood, white & black<br />
A slightly left of centre choice, the Nike<br />
Free Run Trail is a comfort-based shoe<br />
that is perfect for those on the go. Nike<br />
combines an airy mesh upper with a<br />
light brown suede and a foam midsole<br />
to create a sneaker that will last you<br />
through the autumn and winter months.<br />
The colourway is one of my favourites<br />
on this list as it combines shades of<br />
brown and orange with a crisp white,<br />
which certainly offers solid autumnal<br />
vibes. A higher price point is a<br />
downside, but the comfort it provides is<br />
unmatched.<br />
4: Nike Dunk High<br />
(Price): various<br />
(Colourway): navy/white<br />
This may be a shoe that many expected<br />
not to be on this list considering its high<br />
popularity. Over the last year, Nike have<br />
released an array of Dunk High<br />
colourways, with the ‘Championship<br />
Navy’ edition being one of its most<br />
slept-on pairs. It offers a high-top<br />
alternative to more common silhouettes<br />
and has a clean, neutral colour balance<br />
that would pair brilliantly with varsity<br />
jackets and much more. Despite it being<br />
sold out at Nike, resell websites such as<br />
StockX have them listed at relatively<br />
affordable prices depending on size, and<br />
with the sheer popularity of the shoe, it<br />
is certainly a piece that would help you<br />
stand out from the crowd.<br />
3: Adidas Forum 84 Low<br />
(Price): £85<br />
(Colourway): off white/collegiate green<br />
/glow pink<br />
This 1984 silhouette comes in at third<br />
place with its unique but<br />
complimentary colour combination of<br />
peach, green, and off white. Adidas have<br />
produced a perfect chunky sneaker<br />
here, with its wide middle making it an<br />
ideal shoe to let sit under wide-leg jeans<br />
and various other bottoms, like cargos.<br />
Additionally, little details such as its<br />
Velcro lace strap and personalisation<br />
feature make it a purchase well worth<br />
its £85 price point.<br />
The top two picks were hard to<br />
separate, but coming up just short of top<br />
spot is the Nike Lahar Low in a brown<br />
colourway. A combination of a sneaker<br />
and boot, this new release from Nike<br />
looks like it can do it all. Apparently<br />
“built for the rugged urban landscape”,<br />
this model could fit just as well on the<br />
streets as it would do on a hike; the<br />
possibilities are endless! It’s a shoe that<br />
has most definitely flown under the<br />
radar, with it being readily available to<br />
buy right now. Go check it out, it has<br />
multiple colourways if this one fails to<br />
impress.<br />
1. Nike Blazer Low x Sacai<br />
(Price): £119<br />
(Colourway): tan/red<br />
Coming in at first place on the list has to<br />
be the recently released Nike x Sacai<br />
Blazer Low in the ‘British Tan’<br />
colourway. Possibly the best cold<br />
weather colourway I’ve seen in a while,<br />
this collaboration adds a popular brand<br />
to your collection while keeping your<br />
bank account looking healthy. The<br />
contrast of the red and tan alongside the<br />
beautiful suede materials creates a<br />
striking shoe that will still match with<br />
everything you have. The additional<br />
doubled tongue, laces, and bottom<br />
projects an unmistakeably Sacai look<br />
whilst keeping the overall shoe lowkey.<br />
At £119, I see this shoe as the best<br />
balance in terms of appearance, luxury,<br />
and price.<br />
PAGE 82
I want to remind you that it's ok to have different emotions. You<br />
shouldn't blame yourself for your reactions. You shouldn't<br />
estimate yourself as a person for "bad" or "good" emotions.<br />
Furthermore, you are not your emotions.<br />
Model: Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta<br />
Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio
Beauty Veil<br />
Models: Anastasia Gorishna @Nastyagorishna; Enplanafro @enplanafro<br />
Makeup Artist: Sarah Lily @glambysarahlily; Liudka @Liudka.b<br />
Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon<br />
Veils: Accesorize
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
London Runway was on hand to<br />
witness the live catwalk auditions to<br />
select the face (or feet!) of the upcoming<br />
Des O'Connors shoe collection. With<br />
insights from our Face of London<br />
Runway 2021 Womenswear winner,<br />
Kirsty Spence…<br />
On Saturday 11th September, a large<br />
group of hopeful models filed into the<br />
Holiday Inn in Kensington. They were a<br />
diverse bunch, all from different shapes<br />
and sizes and walks of life – and all of<br />
them were hoping for the chance to<br />
become the new ambassador for Des<br />
O’Connor’s shoes.<br />
With a prize worth £10,000 on the line,<br />
everyone was ready to put their best<br />
foot forward. And with our favourite<br />
model coach, Maxine Griffiths, at the<br />
helm, they all had an amazing shot!<br />
After a day of practice, the models<br />
walked out on the runway in front of a<br />
live audience, competing in three<br />
rounds to get to the top prize.<br />
The first round saw all the models<br />
stepping out in all-black outfits,<br />
bringing us to a neutral comparison of<br />
each of their talents. From there, they<br />
were given their own choice of their<br />
favourite outfit to wear with their own<br />
stunning, colourful shoes. Finally, the<br />
top entrants returned in new looks to<br />
answer some questions from the judges<br />
and get the chance to be crowned as the<br />
winners.<br />
Little did they know, there were actually<br />
more prizes to be won! The judges<br />
actually named winners in five<br />
categories as well as the overall winner.<br />
DES O’CONNORS LIVE<br />
CATWALK AUDITIONS<br />
They were:<br />
<br />
Miss Impact – Maria Castiblanco<br />
Miss Achieve – Ewelina Salata<br />
Miss Courage – Hera Kruja<br />
Miss Influence – Kinga Orlicz<br />
Miss Energy – Lina Rahban<br />
DOC Winner 2021 – Melissa Luke<br />
Melissa will go home with five pairs of<br />
Des O’Connors shoes and will also<br />
model for the brand in the future.<br />
And she wasn’t the only winner on the<br />
day, either – with attendees all being<br />
entered into a raffle to win shoes and<br />
one on one motivational sessions with<br />
Des himself.<br />
“The models were amazing,” Kirsty told<br />
us after watching the show from the<br />
front row. “It was really professional,<br />
with a full-on catwalk. It was really<br />
vibrant, really upbeat. There was sass,<br />
there was attitude! I loved the diversity!”<br />
Jealous? Well, you might have missed<br />
out on this year, but that doesn’t mean<br />
you’ve missed every opportunity. Head<br />
to desoconnorsmodels.com to get the<br />
lowdown on the next opportunity – not<br />
to be missed if you’re an aspiring model,<br />
a shoe lover, or want to find<br />
empowerment for yourself as a woman!<br />
Take a peek over the next few pages to<br />
see the winners and runners up, as well<br />
as a highlight gallery of the most<br />
exciting shoes that the models wore on<br />
the day! What will the Des O’Connors<br />
shoe collection look like? Stay tuned for<br />
when it is launched in March to find<br />
out!
DES O CONNORS<br />
MODEL WINNERS<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS<br />
LIVE CATWALK<br />
AUDITIONS<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
DES O CONNORS<br />
SHOE HIGHLIGHTS<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
BEST OF BOTH<br />
BOUTIQUE<br />
Images by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 61
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
LFW came in full force this season with both digital and in-person presentations, but what<br />
was even better than nearly a week of innovative SS22 fashion? The street styles returned!<br />
Candice brings you LFW street style inspired trends fit for each unique sign.<br />
<br />
March 21 - April 20<br />
Aries<br />
The Amaury Coat in Green, Navy, and White<br />
Stripe is both versatile and bold, perfect for<br />
any season. By Alice Early, all of their pieces<br />
are designed and handmade in London with<br />
classic, structured designs perfect for this fire<br />
sign!<br />
April 21 - May 21<br />
Taurus<br />
Aligne’s Quilted Evie Sleeveless Liner features a<br />
drawstring waist and is the perfect layering<br />
must-have! Tauruses will love the comfortable<br />
design!<br />
May 22- June 21<br />
Gemini<br />
Eclectic and funky are words used to<br />
describe a Gemini and their style! Pair this<br />
sign with ROOP’s satin Baby ROOP Bag and<br />
you’ll have a match made in heaven!<br />
PAGE 104
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
Cancer<br />
June 22- July 22<br />
This feminine Virago Sleeve Top by Aardes<br />
in wild rose is perfect for elevating the<br />
classy Cancer’s traditional t-shirt and jeans<br />
fit. The limited edition top is 100% cotton<br />
and hand block printed in Jaipur, India.<br />
Leo<br />
July 23- August 21<br />
Knee and thigh high boots cannot be<br />
missed when looking back at LFW street<br />
styles. With Beyond Skin’s Roxie B Camel<br />
Faux Leather Knee High Vegan Boots, Leos<br />
will strut with confidence everywhere they<br />
go!<br />
Virgo<br />
August 22- September 23<br />
Diligent Virgos constantly on the go want<br />
nothing less than perfect, and this<br />
translates over to their fashion tastes as<br />
well! Oversized blazers never go wrong<br />
with their practical and chic aesthetic, like<br />
this Mother of Pearl Eden Prince of Wales<br />
Jacket!<br />
PAGE 105
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
Libra<br />
September 24- October 23<br />
Colour-blocking makes a return with<br />
fashion forward Libras leaping with joy to<br />
pair their favourite colour schemes<br />
together this season! Stella McCartney’s<br />
‘Maia’ coat is “splashed with vivid pink, red<br />
and orange hues.”<br />
October 24- November 22<br />
Scorpio<br />
Checks and ginghams are back, and<br />
Scorpios rock this undying trend like no<br />
other! Seventy + Mochi’s Victoria Blouse in<br />
Handwoven Berry Gingham showcases the<br />
duality of this compassionate yet stoic sign<br />
with its frill design and dark colouring.<br />
November 23- December 22<br />
Sagittarius<br />
Sagittariuses and Beaumont Organic<br />
are the experts of style and comfort. The<br />
Francesca Linen Top’s balloon sleeves and<br />
tie-up collar make for an elegant boho<br />
addition to both sign and brand!<br />
PAGE 106
Capricorn<br />
December 23- January 20<br />
Kairi London’s Julia Bag in their yin yang<br />
design is 100% vegan made from cactus<br />
leather. It fits almost everything a<br />
Capricorn may need of it and more!<br />
Aquarius<br />
January 21 - February 19<br />
Trendsetters through and through,<br />
Aquarians rock anything they don, setting<br />
the standard. This Mahogany Paradise set<br />
from House of Sunny features statement,<br />
printed pieces that they’re always drawn<br />
to.<br />
<br />
February 20 - March 20<br />
Pisces<br />
Yasmina Q’s Willow Dress in Sunrise<br />
Yellow features a full length design with<br />
jasmine ditsy print and cascading frills.<br />
Pisceans will love this ethereal, dreamy<br />
design, enhancing their intuition and<br />
femininity.<br />
You can see more of Candice's work on<br />
Instagram by following @Candice_x9.<br />
Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley<br />
All images via respective retailers<br />
PAGE 107
LONDON<br />
ACCESSORY<br />
WEEK<br />
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
PAGE 110
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
PAGE 111
AFRICA<br />
FASHION<br />
AWARDS:<br />
KANDE<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Images by Fil Mazzarino
PAGE 113
LA DAMA<br />
LINGERIE<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />
@the_mj_studio<br />
PAGE 114
MISS POLSKI UK<br />
& IRELAND<br />
Paweł Majewski is the Founder and CEO of Miss Polski UK &<br />
Ireland.<br />
Miss Poland UK & Ireland 2021 - Sandra Salamon<br />
Miss Poland UK & Ireland Teen 2021 - Klaudia Kotlarz<br />
1st Vice Miss - Katarzyna Kriger<br />
1st Vice Miss Teen - Nikola Ladosz<br />
2nd Vice Miss - Nikolina Holuk<br />
2nd Vice Miss Teen - Jagoda Biegala<br />
Miss Photo Teen - Victoria Tadej<br />
Miss Photo - Marta Chrostowska<br />
Miss Internet Teenager - Victoria Tadej<br />
Miss Internet - Sandra Salamon<br />
Miss Teen Personality - Jagoda Biegala<br />
Miss personality - Anna Guzak<br />
Miss Smile - Nell Malczuk<br />
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />
@the_mj_studio
PAGE 117
MOST<br />
THE<br />
ICONIC<br />
SUPERMODELS<br />
ALL TIME<br />
OF<br />
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
In the aftermath of London Fashion<br />
Week, Ruth Croft explores the most<br />
iconic supermodels of all time and<br />
their impact on modern society.<br />
Every September, just as the leaves<br />
begin to fall, the streets of the capital<br />
seem to quiver with anticipation as<br />
London Fashion Week returns. The<br />
revolutionary event first took place<br />
in October 1983, and is showcased<br />
twice a year - once in the spring, and<br />
then in the autumn - for designers to<br />
present their upcoming collections to<br />
the public. It is organised by the<br />
British Fashion Council, a not-forprofit<br />
establishment that, in addition<br />
to coordinating fashion events and<br />
awards, is responsible for supporting<br />
the next generation of designers.<br />
This year, the event was held from<br />
the 16th to the 21st of September,<br />
leading with the talents of Bora Aksu,<br />
Halpern, Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo,<br />
and ERDEM, to name but a few. The<br />
shows were split between both<br />
physical and digital events, due to<br />
the COVID-19 pandemic. But as<br />
always, it was remarkable to see the<br />
hard work of everyone involved in<br />
such a prestigious experience, and to<br />
express our appreciation of their<br />
dedication and genius.<br />
<br />
With this reminder of such talent, it<br />
rouses the conversation around to the<br />
other true power shining from events<br />
such as this: that which brings the<br />
designers’ dream to life, and styles it<br />
out magnificently on the runway. I<br />
am, of course, referring to the role of<br />
the models - more specifically, the<br />
elusive supermodel. The vague<br />
definition of said supermodel is<br />
simply a highly paid fashion model<br />
who is beautiful and famous enough<br />
to have cultural dominance. They<br />
typically have an illustrious<br />
reputation amongst prominent<br />
fashion designers, magazine editors,<br />
and beauty brands. Though it may<br />
seem undemanding to stand on the<br />
stage and look pretty, the art of<br />
modelling is a complicated role which<br />
requires a lot of energy. It is their job<br />
to showcase the designs, to cast them<br />
into the light, and reveal them as<br />
something entirely visionary. They<br />
are the presentation of ideals. And<br />
most of the time, they find<br />
themselves even more renowned<br />
than their creators, making<br />
themselves household names<br />
throughout the entire world.<br />
In light of this, here we explore the<br />
top most iconic supermodels of all<br />
time…<br />
Naomi Campbell<br />
Perhaps the most influential<br />
supermodel of the ‘90s, Naomi<br />
Campbell was the first person that<br />
came to mind when I thought about<br />
writing this article. Her era in the<br />
fashion industry began in the 1980s,<br />
and continues to this day, although<br />
her first appearance in the spotlight<br />
was when she starred in a Bob Marley<br />
music video at age seven. Known for<br />
her beauty and committed attitude to<br />
her work, Campbell soon established<br />
PAGE 118
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
herself as one of the most reputable<br />
models in the entire industry early<br />
on in her career, being awarded the<br />
title of ‘supermodel’ by the<br />
international press. It’s worth noting<br />
that she was the most famous black<br />
model of her time. Since then, she<br />
has also earned notoriety for being<br />
particularly philanthropic. Not only<br />
has she raised significant funds for<br />
the Nelson Mandela Children’s<br />
Funds, and raised awareness for<br />
breast cancer through Fashion<br />
Targets Breast Cancer, she is also the<br />
founder of the charityFashion for<br />
Relief, which organised fund-raising<br />
fashion events to aid victims of<br />
Hurricane Katrina in 2005.<br />
Cindy Crawford<br />
Rising to fame in the 1980s, Cindy<br />
Crawford soon became a part of<br />
what is now known as ‘the Big Six’,<br />
consisting of the top supermodels on<br />
the runway at the time. In her time,<br />
she had a reliable presence on<br />
fashion and lifestyle magazine<br />
covers, as well as various modelling<br />
campaigns and catwalks. She is best<br />
known for her voluminous, wavy<br />
hair, strong eyebrows, and her<br />
trademark beauty mark.<br />
earning her the nickname, ‘The<br />
Shrimp.’ She even helped popularise<br />
the mini skirt.<br />
Elle MacPherson<br />
The girl-next-door from Australia,<br />
Elle MacPherson was known for her<br />
smart and athletic aesthetic. She was<br />
enrolled at Sydney University to<br />
study Law, but began modelling to<br />
pay for her textbooks. She was soon<br />
posing on the covers of many<br />
American magazines, however, her<br />
most prominent exposure is arguably<br />
her record five covers in the annual<br />
Swimsuit Issue in Sports Illustrated.<br />
This eventually earned her the<br />
nickname, ‘The Body.’ She is also an<br />
ambassador for RED, an enterprise<br />
designed to raise money for the<br />
Global Fund to Fight AIDS,<br />
Tuberculosis, and Malaria.<br />
Gisele Bündchen<br />
Gisele Bündchen rose to fame in the<br />
‘90s, after being discovered by Elite<br />
Model Management in Rio de Janeiro.<br />
Her very first runway show was during<br />
New York Fashion Week, and she soon<br />
went on to work with Dolce and<br />
Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The<br />
media referred to her as ‘the return of<br />
the sexy model,’ as well as ‘the Brazilian<br />
bombshell.’ It is reported that<br />
Bündchen has been the highest-paid<br />
model in the world since 2004,<br />
however, she has used her wealth<br />
philanthropically. Not only did she<br />
donate $150,000 to the Zero Hunger<br />
Program in Brazil, but she has also<br />
campaigned for St Jude Children’s<br />
Research Hospital, and the Red Cross to<br />
aid those in Haiti after the earthquake<br />
in 2010. She is a Goodwill Ambassador<br />
for the United Nations Environment<br />
Program.<br />
Jean Shrimpton<br />
Jean Shrimpton has been described<br />
as having ‘the world’s most beautiful<br />
face,’ known for her doe eyes and<br />
pouty lips. She was particularly<br />
poignant because of her contrast<br />
with the former curvaceous look<br />
presented by models in the ‘60s,<br />
PAGE 119
LONDON RUNWAY<br />
Twiggy<br />
Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) was<br />
the star of the Swinging Sixties,<br />
storming into the modelling world at<br />
only 16 years of age. She is best known<br />
for her huge, dark eyes that she made<br />
even more prominent with drawn-on<br />
eyelashes, and her delicately slender<br />
frame which inspired her nickname.<br />
woman to ever walk in the Victoria’s<br />
Secret Fashion Show in 2009. She<br />
resides in New York, and is continuing<br />
to rise in global success.<br />
Jourdan Dunn<br />
In 2008, Jourdan Dunn was the<br />
first black model to star in a Prada<br />
show for over a decade. She has<br />
since spoken about the lack of<br />
diversity in the modelling industry,<br />
and the discrimination she has<br />
faced during her career. Despite<br />
these hardships, she has<br />
campaigned with the likes of Marc<br />
Jacobs and Yves St Laurent, and is<br />
considered to be one of her<br />
generation’s supermodels.<br />
Kate Moss<br />
Liu Wen<br />
Known as the first Chinese<br />
Supermodel, Liu Wen debuted her<br />
international runway career in 2008,<br />
walking for Burberry. She has since<br />
worked with huge fashion brands, such<br />
as Oscar de la Renta and Alexander<br />
Wang. She became the first East-Asian<br />
The British model that everyone<br />
loves, Kate Moss was a pioneer of<br />
the ‘90s fashion world. She was the<br />
face of ‘heroin chic,’ a style that<br />
represented the androgynous,<br />
slender, pale skin trend that rose in<br />
the early 1990s. It was a deviation<br />
from the previous supermodel<br />
look, awarding Moss worldwide<br />
attention. She has been associated<br />
with many brands over the years,<br />
and is still considered to be one of<br />
the world’s most influential people.<br />
Cara Delevingne<br />
Supermodel, actress, and singer… it<br />
seems Cara Delevingne has it all.<br />
She was signed to Storm<br />
Management in 2009, but didn’t<br />
break through properly until 2012,<br />
when she walked in all four of the<br />
big Fashion Weeks: New York,<br />
London, Paris, and Milan. She has<br />
since become the face of Rimmel,<br />
and twice won an award for ‘Model<br />
of the Year’ in the British Fashion<br />
Awards.<br />
Their reputation is undeniably<br />
befitting. To be a model is to work<br />
with dedication, and a lot of<br />
willpower. The industry is known<br />
to be controversial, at best. To rise<br />
to power, one must be determined<br />
to look past every rejection and<br />
heartless comment. It is not an easy<br />
ride. But then again, perhaps that’s<br />
why we call them ‘super’.<br />
You can read more of Ruth’s work<br />
on Instagram by following<br />
@thewriterruth.<br />
Images via WikiMedia Commons<br />
PAGE 120
Q<br />
&<br />
THE BIG QUESTION<br />
A<br />
What's one fashion<br />
We asked, you answered<br />
show you'd love to see<br />
I want to go back in time and see an<br />
Alexander McQueen show from the man<br />
himself!<br />
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor<br />
in person?<br />
“I would love to see a Dior or Chanel show -<br />
but only if I could wear their clothes in the<br />
front row!”<br />
- Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant<br />
“SAVAGE X FENTY”<br />
– Anna Marie, Fashion Student<br />
“YEEZY!”<br />
- Jack, Sales Manager<br />
“I would honestly love to see any LFW show<br />
now that we're able to again, I'll take anything!”<br />
– Louise Jensen, Fashion Buyer<br />
“I would love to see<br />
something at Milan<br />
Fashion Week. I'm<br />
not picky!”<br />
- Cal J, Musician<br />
“Joshua Kane!”<br />
– Jared Rehal, Operations<br />
Manager<br />
“Viktor and Rolf shows never<br />
disappoint, I love how creative they<br />
are!”<br />
– Jenny, Model<br />
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
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