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ISSUE 66<br />

27TH SEPTEMBER 2021<br />




RRP £9.99



Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk<br />

Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk<br />

Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk<br />

Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino<br />

Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra<br />

Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek<br />

Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas<br />

Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar, Ruth Croft, Thomas<br />

Woods<br />

Advertising inquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk<br />

Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit<br />

Contributors: Brechó Babado Fashion, Negah Anna, Edien Black, Wilson Vitorino, Latta Pathak, Karolina<br />

Nowak, Janete Zenlinda, Tatiana Porembova Bridal, Hali London, Tarz London, Shoes by Larisa, Saint<br />

Beth, Honey V Tiaras Jayne Elizabeth Millinery, Crystal Crafts Bouquets, Lahore Karahi Tooting, Alissa<br />

Schrag, Dekaya Hewlett, Lois J Elise, Юлия Джемова, Ariadna Golubeva, Vera Lipunova, Artem Sigaev,<br />

Saveliy Molchanov, Габриэль Оганян, Sofia Somova, Zarina And Marina Дарья Шевченко, Eva Cass,<br />

Josephine Landry, Alison Leitao, Emma Lynch, Anne Marie Costantino, Julia McDonough, Charis<br />

Michelsen, Ivie Akira, Ayla Imogen, Lacey Rae, Lara Jane, Scarlett, Stephany Ioana, Tylda, Vivienne<br />

Monique, Ysabella Kristeen, Anne Wilkinson, Be Unique Be You, Ram Eagle, Elena Berezhnova, Maria<br />

Konakova, Anastasia Gorishna, Enplanafro, Sarah Lily, Liudka, Ozoda Muminova, Kirsty Spence, Pawel<br />

Majewski, Sandra Salamon, Klaudia Kotlarz, Katarzyna Kriger, Nikolina Holuk, Jagoda Biegala, Victoria<br />

Tadej, Marta Chrostowska, Anna Guzak, Nell Malczuk<br />

Special thanks to Ajoy Sahu, Dyelog PR, and Maxine Griffiths<br />

Interested in working with us?<br />

We currently have internships available in the following positions:<br />

Staff Writers<br />

Staff Illustrator<br />

Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk<br />

© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors<br />

Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission<br />

from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors<br />

and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.<br />

Face of London Runway 2021 ambassadors are Kirsty Spence and Robert Keene<br />




Bora Aksu<br />

Edward Crutchley<br />

Atelier Tammam<br />

Paul Costello Presentation<br />

No Flow Do Babad (Editorial)<br />

Two Weddings (Cover Editorial)<br />

Sirens (Editorial)<br />

New Faces<br />

Portfolio Piece: Red Children<br />

Mark Fast<br />

Tiger of Sweden<br />

Aadnevik<br />

Style (Conscious) Guide: Inspired<br />

by LFW<br />

Gowns N' Roses - Be Unique Be You<br />

1 1<br />

6<br />

10<br />

12<br />

14<br />

16<br />

21<br />

34<br />

43<br />

49<br />

55<br />

59<br />

62<br />

66<br />

70<br />

Africa Fashion Awards: Kande<br />

Collection<br />

La Dama Lingerie<br />

Miss Polski UK & Ireland<br />

WORDS<br />

An Exploration into Our<br />

Emotional Attachment to Clothes<br />

Interview: Ajoy Sahu<br />

Walk Talk: The Ins and Outs of<br />

Model Training with Maxine<br />

Griffiths<br />

Beauty Expert, Author, and<br />

Actress, Charis Michelsen Shares<br />

How to Utilise the Hottest<br />

Runway Fashion and Makeup<br />

Trends to Maximise your Physical<br />

Appeal<br />

Alexander McQueen Romantic<br />

Darkness<br />

Underated Sneakers That You<br />

Need for the Upcoming Season<br />

112<br />

114<br />

116<br />

4<br />

15<br />

30<br />

51<br />

67<br />

81<br />

U R Not Ur Emotions (Editorial)<br />

Beauty Veil (Editorial)<br />

Des O'Connors<br />

Best of Both Boutique<br />

83<br />

89<br />

94<br />

102<br />

Des O'Connors Live Catwalk<br />

Auditions<br />

Your Style Horoscope<br />

The Most Iconic Supermodels of<br />

All Time<br />

93<br />

104<br />

118<br />

London Accessory Week<br />

108<br />

The Big Question<br />


Editor's<br />

letter<br />

LFW is back, back, back again! And this<br />

time, we actually mean it. When we say<br />

we were excited to get back to going to<br />

shows, it’s like saying the Pope might<br />

believe in God a little bit. In other<br />

words, it’s just about the<br />

understatement of the year.<br />

every season, there are still things going<br />

on all the time. That’s part of the fun of<br />

living in London as a fashion fan! Make<br />

sure to check those out: they might not<br />

enjoy the same level of publicity and<br />

hype, but small designers still have a lot<br />

to say.<br />

And if you doubted it at all, you<br />

might not have seen the images from<br />

the recent Met Gala. Everyone’s been<br />

talking about AOC wearing THAT ‘tax<br />

the rich’ dress – proof, if any was<br />

needed, that fashion can be as<br />

political as any creative discipline.<br />

We have some live coverage from<br />

events this issue, and we’ll bring you<br />

even more in our next issue as well –<br />

because there’s just too much goodness<br />

to restrict it to the page count we’re<br />

allowed! That includes designer<br />

interviews and lots of gorgeous<br />

photographs from our in-house team,<br />

Fil, Ian, and MJ.<br />

We’ve got some of the latest shows from<br />

before fashion week for you as well:<br />

even though the eyes of the world may<br />

turn on our capital for a few days<br />

Talking of having a lot to say, this issue<br />

we explore the history of a dearly<br />

departed designer whose collections<br />

always reflected how he felt about the<br />

world around him: Alexander McQueen.<br />

You might wonder why we spend so<br />

much time looking into the history of<br />

fashion, when there's so much newness<br />

happening all the time...<br />

But, as we’ll see, fashion is much more<br />

than a way of dressing – it’s a way to<br />

interface with the world, expressing<br />

yourself and your ideals.<br />

We’ve plenty of inspiring looks<br />

served up for you this issue, so get<br />

stuck in and start fantasising about<br />

your new post-lockdown wardrobe<br />

(and let’s see if we really ARE postlockdown…<br />

but that’s a whole other<br />

topic!). As you do, consider what<br />

your clothes can say to the world –<br />

and remember that if you want to<br />

wear your heart on your sleeve,<br />

there’s no better way than to insist on<br />

clothing that is both fashionable and<br />

sustainable.<br />

Enjoy -<br />







This issue, Katie Abson explores our<br />

attachment to clothes and why letting<br />

them go is so hard.<br />

We all have that one item of clothing<br />

that we just can’t let go of, no matter<br />

how old, damaged, or dated. Even if<br />

we know we’ll never wear it again –<br />

we don’t have the heart to say<br />

goodbye. Perhaps it’s the shirt we<br />

wore on our first day of university.<br />

Or maybe it’s an ex’s hoodie that still<br />

smells faintly of their aftershave. We<br />

hold on to christening dresses,<br />

wedding gowns, leaver’s day<br />

jumpers, and, theoretically, we’ll<br />

never wear these pieces again. Some<br />

of them might not even fit us<br />

anymore. So, why do we hold on to<br />

them? Why do we emotionally attach<br />

ourselves to clothes? Why are they<br />

so important to us?<br />

We constantly revamp our<br />

wardrobes to suit our evolving style<br />

and latest trends, but most of us<br />

simply don’t have the storage space<br />

to keep every item of clothing we<br />

purchase throughout the course of<br />

our lives. The dreaded clear-out is a<br />

must, particularly with the changing<br />

seasons. It can be a great way to sell<br />

clothes or donate to charity and to<br />

clear space for our next fashion<br />

season. Although the process can be<br />

freeing and therapeutic, it can<br />

equally be exhausting. Selecting<br />

items to donate or throw away can<br />

be painful, particularly when we feel<br />

a certain attachment to them.<br />

Memories, good and bad, are woven<br />

into the fabric of our clothes, and<br />

parting with a pair of beloved jeans<br />

bought on holiday half a decade ago<br />

can trigger an upsetting response,<br />

despite how worn-out they are.<br />

Because, to some people, it feels like<br />

saying goodbye to that memory or<br />

that part of their lives. When in<br />

reality, they are just a pair of jeans<br />

that are taking up space.<br />

This response, although somewhat<br />

seemingly irrational, is<br />

psychologically very natural.<br />

Studies have shown that our<br />

emotional attachment to clothes<br />

develops early in our childhood. As<br />

early as the age of two, we may not<br />

understand the concept of<br />

ownership, but we certainly feel it.<br />

This evolves into attachment, and<br />

emotions such as jealousy and rage<br />

can be felt in babies when that<br />

object is taken away or given to<br />

someone else. In our teenage years,<br />

possessions begin to expand into a<br />

sense of self and can help boost<br />

self-esteem when confidence<br />

begins to dwindle. As adults,<br />

clothing can become an extension<br />

of ourselves as we begin to<br />

establish our personal style and the<br />

way we present ourselves. Loss of<br />

such items that we associate with<br />

our sense of self can ignite pain<br />

and unhappiness, our attachment<br />

turning into an obsession with<br />

finding what is lost. We are<br />

psychologically wired to claim<br />

objects as our own, later<br />

establishing meaning behind what<br />

belongs to us.<br />

The same goes for holding onto<br />

items once belonging to another<br />

person. If that person is no longer<br />

around or accessible to us, it can<br />

feel as though we are keeping part<br />

of that person with us in the<br />

present day. Our senses are tuned<br />

into clothing, such as touch and<br />

smell, and being able to physically<br />

touch something previously owned<br />

by someone we loved can be the<br />

closest thing we still have to them.<br />

We feel connected to them in some<br />



sort of way. When you really think<br />

about it, it’s perfectly normal to want<br />

to keep possession of such beloved<br />

items.<br />

Family heirlooms that pass through<br />

generations have associations to people<br />

we have never met formally in this<br />

lifetime, but serve to provide us with a<br />

connection to previous family<br />

members. These heirlooms may come<br />

from a time of war, struggle, love or<br />

different countries. Textiles from a<br />

certain time period and clothing made<br />

by brands that no longer exist make us<br />

cherish the item more, as we possess<br />

something that cannot be purchased<br />

anywhere else in the world.<br />

Particularly when a piece of clothing or<br />

jewellery is handmade, such as a<br />

woollen jumper knitted by a great-aunt<br />

or grandparent, the sentimentality for<br />

that object grows deeply within us.<br />

Materials that age well, such as leather,<br />

appeal to us more than a newly bought<br />

item. We search for such items in<br />

vintage stores and charity shops as they<br />

are more aesthetically pleasing to us.<br />

A piece of clothing can go from<br />

something you throw on casually in the<br />

morning to an item you wish to cherish<br />

by the end of the day, depending on the<br />

events that follow. An old summer<br />

dress can turn into the dress you get<br />

engaged in. A satin fitted blazer can<br />

become the item you land your dream<br />

job in. The safekeeping of these clothes<br />

is significant to us as they serve as<br />

reminders of a monumental time in our<br />

lives, and consequently develop into<br />

our ‘lucky’ clothes. One item of clothing<br />

can hold many meanings and<br />

associations with wonderful memories.<br />

We hold onto them as a reminder of<br />

that time, but also in the hope of<br />

repeating similar experiences when we<br />

wear them again.<br />

There is a multitude of reasons why we<br />

find it hard to rid ourselves of clothing.<br />

Memories are as powerful as the<br />

physical object itself, especially when<br />

the memory is heightened by vivid<br />

emotions. There is a certain beauty in<br />

the long-term possession of an item<br />

enveloped with meaning and memory<br />

recognised exclusively by the owner,<br />

and the stories that come along with it.<br />

But be warned – there is a difference<br />

between emotional attachment and<br />

using it as an excuse to hoard clothes!<br />

At one point or another, we must give<br />

in. We can’t keep every piece of<br />

clothing we own forever. And the truth<br />

is, someone might need it more.<br />

So, if the dreaded clear-out is in your<br />

schedule for winter, keep an open mind<br />

when rummaging through your<br />

wardrobe. And if something truly pains<br />

you to let it go – keep it safe. You’ll be<br />

reminded of happy memories when<br />

you find it once again at the back of<br />

your wardrobe in years to come.<br />

Images via Pexels and Unsplash<br />


Photography by Fil MazzarinoBORA AKSU


EDWARD<br />


Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />

@the_mj_studio<br />




Photography by Fil Mazzarino<br />





Photography by Ian Clark<br />



Amber Johnson spoke to Ajoy Sahu<br />


during their LFW presentation to<br />

discover the inspiration behind their<br />

latest shoe collection.<br />

LR: Hello! It's so lovely to meet you,<br />

thank you for having me. So what was<br />

the inspiration behind the collection<br />

and the whole show?<br />

Ajoy Sahu: Actually, the whole brand is<br />

based on the poppies. [The fitting and<br />

construction] are all inspired by the<br />

poppy seeds, you know, the seeds inside<br />

the poppy pod when they dry out. And<br />

when you see the construction shape,<br />

it's kind of like a poppy silhouette with<br />

the seed in it. So this is how we start<br />

designing the shoe construction. With<br />

the kitten heels, we always try to keep<br />

the seeds shape and also in the flat. And<br />

then slowly we evolve the whole<br />

collection into more fluid line ideas. So,<br />

it's based on the original construction to<br />

evolve into all different types of fluid<br />

lines to make very interesting patterns<br />

on the foot. Then we got all these very<br />

special custom made fittings. The poppy<br />

seeds are the most important for our<br />

brand. We’re kind of trying to keep the<br />

whole brand's identity into the<br />

construction, the same concepts.<br />

Hopefully, in the future with the brand<br />

in the market a lot more, even though<br />

people don't know our name, they can<br />

still recognise the shape.<br />

LR: You need that element that stands<br />

out that makes you different from<br />

everyone else, that when you see that<br />

you say "That's that brand!'.<br />

Ajoy Sahu: Yeah, so this is the DNA and<br />

also very unique for the brand.<br />

LR: Did you have any difficulties during<br />

the design process of the whole<br />

collection?<br />

Which really stressed me out. And also<br />

the factory finished, like, a week before,<br />

because we made everything in China.<br />

And I have a production team in China<br />

to help to control the development and<br />

the production. And of course, because<br />

of COVID, I can't really go back to China.<br />

So I have to do limitless video meetings.<br />

I get up really early every day to work<br />

with China time. So, to just really push<br />

the whole collection, because normally,<br />

during the development period, I'll be in<br />

China to develop the whole collection<br />

with the team. Because of COVID I<br />

didn't go back for two years. We really<br />

broke through lots of challenges.<br />

LR: But it makes it all worth it though?<br />

Ajoy Sahu: Yeah. And luckily, we found<br />

a really cool New York showroom to<br />

represent the brand worldwide as well.<br />

So it's really cool. I'm really excited.<br />

LR: Was there anything that you would<br />

have changed or would have done<br />

differently with the collection? Or are<br />

you happy with the outcome?<br />

Ajoy Sahu: I'm really happy with the<br />

outcome. But of course, if I can be there<br />

to develop the production, it would be<br />

really great.<br />

LR: I think it's the perfectionist, you<br />

want to be able to see every single<br />

element of the design and the<br />

construction.<br />

Ajoy Sahu: ...and feel the material and<br />

choose the materials as well.<br />

Ajoy Sahu: Yes, definitely. Because it's<br />

during COVID. So actually, all the<br />

collections just arrived yesterday.

NO FLOW<br />

DO BABAD<br />

Wardrobe - Brechó Babado Fashion @brecho.babadofashion<br />

Styling, model - Negah Anna @negahanna<br />

Hair Stylist, model - Edien Black @edienblack<br />

Photographer - Wilson Vitorino @wilsonvitorino<br />

Accessories - EME Sunglasses @emesunglasses

Two Weddings<br />

Photographer: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio<br />

MUAH: Latta Pathak @lattapathakmuah<br />

Models: Karolina Nowak @karola3623_; Janete Zelinda @curlylioness<br />

White Bridal gowns: Tatiana Porembova Bridal @tatianaporembovabridal<br />

Red Bridal dress: Hali London @hali.hlondon; Tarz London @tarz_london<br />

Shoes: Shoes by Larisa @shoesbylarisa<br />

Jewellery: Saint Beth @saintbethofficial2; Honey V Tiaras @honeyvtiaras; Jayne Elizabeth Millinery @jayne.Elizabeth.Millinery<br />

Crafts Bouquets and Candle: Crystal Crafts Bouquets @crystalcrafts_bouquets<br />

Location - Lahore Karahi Tooting @lahorekarahitooting




Jessica Carvalho explores the highs and<br />

lows of model training, and just<br />

what it takes to walk the walk, led by<br />

model coach expert Maxine.<br />

Fashion Week unearths a plethora of<br />

things within me. Some of my best<br />

outfits, a finetuned eye for upcoming<br />

trends, and the staggering realisation<br />

that there is a lot more to the modelling<br />

industry than coordinated footfalls. It’s<br />

often too easy to discredit models and<br />

label their craft as simply walking, but<br />

there is an entire blueprint to the art. So,<br />

if you too want to brush up on your<br />

modelling knowledge, I bring you<br />

Maxine Griffiths: creative director,<br />

events coordinator, model coach and<br />

all-around cool girl who’ll give you a<br />

taste of the world of model training.<br />

How would you define The Model<br />

Workshops and model training<br />

to someone who isn't familiar with the<br />

modelling industry?<br />

The Model Workshops was created<br />

initially to give the opportunity to<br />

aspiring models who wanted to get into<br />

the industry of catwalk. As you<br />

know that doesn't always work for<br />

everybody, and when I was trying to<br />

get into the industry, I found that height<br />

was a big problem. I was around<br />

people that were already in the<br />

industry, and I just sat under their wing<br />

and just learned as much as I could<br />

about walking, and because I was a<br />

dancer as well, I mastered how to hold<br />

my posture.<br />

Getting into the industry and doing the<br />

training, I devised the workshops<br />

to educate. To give the opportunity to<br />

those who may not have it or may<br />

not even think that they can get onto a<br />

runway. The opportunities I was<br />

given once I mastered my walk are one<br />

of the reasons why I started the<br />

workshops. To put it simply, The Model<br />

Workshops is there to help<br />

aspiring models to understand their<br />

walk and their posture.<br />

How long have you been training<br />

models and how was The Model<br />

Workshops founded?<br />

About 20 years, comfortably. I've been<br />

training models for shows, events,<br />

and doing lots of things with them,<br />

getting them through [events]. The<br />

Model Workshops was founded based<br />

on a company that was called The<br />

Platform Artist of The Stage, and it was<br />

a place where people could come<br />

in and use the stage for work, hobby,<br />

interests, or just to gain experience.<br />

After that, I looked at all of the elements<br />

of what was on offer when I<br />

started in the industry - anything to do<br />

it, drama, music.<br />

Back then, it wasn't deemed as a<br />

profession, but lo and behold; 35 to 40<br />

years later, people actually have this as a<br />

career! We've got actors,<br />

influencers, singers, dancers doing not<br />

just the stuff that they love but<br />

also what they’re talented at. I<br />

formulated the workshops thinking<br />

they need to be open to a lot of people<br />

who want to understand the stage,<br />

platforms, and runway for an<br />

educational purpose. Not enticing you<br />

with the glitz and glam, but giving you<br />

realistic experience, realistic situations<br />

that may occur, learning what the<br />

runway is, learning terminologies,<br />

learning speech, and the right words.<br />

You might not know what a portfolio<br />

is, what does it mean to have a deck - a<br />

lot of girls and guys, they don't actually<br />

know, especially if they're new into the<br />

industry! I see the workshops as a safe<br />

space that you can work within, get<br />

experience, get hands on [help] from the<br />

professionals I collaborate with, so you<br />

can get to the next level if you want to.<br />

I was going to say that it's really nice to<br />

have a safe space, especially for starting<br />

models.<br />

That’s what I’m about, safe spaces.<br />

Having safe having spaces that you<br />


can go into with no experience or as<br />

much experience, and you can share<br />

knowledge knowing that everybody<br />

will be up to the same level, and<br />

nobody will know more than someone<br />

else. Otherwise, you'd come in<br />

thinking that you know it all and not<br />

actually assume you're coming to<br />

learn; you’re coming to take away<br />

something that you can implement<br />

practically and realistically into your<br />

next step on your journey within the<br />

industry.<br />

Would you say model training is “one<br />

size fits all” or is it a is a<br />

tailored experience important?<br />

A tailored experience for me is<br />

important, very tailored. That's one of<br />

the elements that we have; our more<br />

intense workshops like Runway Ready,<br />

Own It for Yourself, I came up with the<br />

content that goes within it. No two<br />

people walk the same. No two models<br />

walk the same.<br />

I've just recently finished working with<br />

Des O'Connor on his live catwalk<br />

auditions, and I found that even then,<br />

we had so many women from<br />

different walks of life, some who never<br />

graced the catwalk before or did<br />

anything like that prior. [The workshops<br />

are] about allowing them to<br />

understand how to walk confidently,<br />

how to own a room when you go into<br />

it, how to put on a pair of 4’5-inch heels<br />

and be able to stay in them for<br />

longer than an hour. To be able to get<br />

your heels out and express yourself<br />

because, as women, we all like a pair of<br />

shoes.<br />

The day and age that we live in now is<br />

so fast paced that someone can<br />

present photos on Instagram, get a few<br />

likes, and then suddenly, they<br />

think based on their looks or great<br />

figure, that's going to lead them to the<br />

job. A lot of girls don’t like to do the<br />

training because they think they've<br />

got enough experience, but in certain<br />

parts of the industry, you really<br />

have to put the hard work in.<br />

Everything needs teachers, none of us<br />

know everything, and I had to sit under<br />

some really good gurus and teachers to<br />

even be where I am today.<br />

With that said, have you witnessed an<br />

opinion change at the workshops? For<br />

example, someone who came in<br />

expecting it to be useless, but leaving<br />

with a completely different opinion?<br />

Hell yeah! People have come in thinking<br />

this was really simple, and then<br />

they’d say “I never knew walking could<br />

be so hard”, and I'm thinking yes!<br />

Some people have it naturally, but<br />

everybody can always do with a brush<br />

up. It's like most things in life, but look<br />

at any model whatsoever; look at<br />

what they do behind the scenes.<br />

We’ve gotten so used to wearing<br />

trainers and chilling out that people<br />

don't dress up anymore. With<br />

The Model Workshops, I have a tailormade<br />

package for every individual<br />

that comes through the door. I take my<br />

time, I look at them, and we just<br />

work it through; I guarantee that<br />

anybody that attends one of the<br />

workshops will definitely come out<br />

walking a lot taller than they came in.<br />

Do you think there are a lot of<br />

misconceptions about the hard<br />

work that goes into model training both<br />

for the trainer and the trainee?<br />

Not just model training, anything! If you<br />

want to be a scientist, somebody's going<br />

to have to teach you the ins and outs<br />

and the mechanics of it. If you want to<br />

become a doctor, you will go to the<br />

necessary colleges, complete the<br />


They have eating and fitness regimes,<br />

they have things that they do to make<br />

sure that they stay on top of their<br />

game. You're not always going to see it,<br />

and it's not always posted - though I<br />

think more recently you kind of see<br />

what a lot of the high end [models] are<br />

doing behind the scenes - even down to<br />

their make-up. Some girls don’t know<br />

how to do their make-up, and you<br />

should know how to do the basics. I<br />

sometimes just feel that a lot of those<br />

stepping into the industries of fashion,<br />

music, and entertainment don't feel they<br />

have to put any work, that it’s just based<br />

on looks and likes. But, disappointment,<br />

heartbreak, it’s all part of the<br />

experience.<br />

Like most fields of work, it doesn’t<br />

sound like a linear growth at all.<br />

Tears, lots of tears. Lots of<br />

disappointment, lots of rejection. When<br />

you get that kind of rejection, you think<br />

“oh, I don't want to do this anymore, I<br />

can't do it”, but there's always<br />

somebody somewhere that can see<br />

potential, it just depends on how hard<br />

you work. There are models that<br />

I've met, and I thought “three to four<br />

months with me and by the time I’m<br />

finished with you, I'll have you walking<br />

certain shows”. You can get testimonials<br />

- even this season, a young lady hadn’t<br />

walked in two years since we've been in<br />

lockdown and I got to witness her walk,<br />

and it's just nice to see when the girls get<br />

to another level. I can actually tell the<br />

difference of those that had been<br />

trained. Those taking the time to be<br />

coached and those that have taken time<br />

to be trained, coached, and mentored<br />

through their journey until they get to a<br />

point where they think “I've taken all<br />

the help I could, I'm ready to go to the<br />

next stage, and I can do that on my<br />

own”.<br />

How did being trained shape your<br />

career?<br />

I knew I wanted to do performing arts,<br />

and I took my time and wanted to<br />

learn about everything; from<br />

production, lighting, to set design and<br />

sound. I just wanted to learn it all, some<br />

people only like one element of the<br />

fashion shows and it’s the one that we<br />

usually see. But there's so much that<br />

goes on behind the scenes, like with<br />

London Fashion Week, what you<br />

see in the magazines, on music videos;<br />

there are such great people<br />

behind the scenes really putting their<br />

hard work in, and some of the time<br />

they don’t even get paid their rates. I<br />

find it quite sad because some of<br />

these companies have the budget to<br />

help people but choose not to at all,<br />

even though these people are<br />

indispensable to the industry.<br />

Take me through a day of training;<br />

what can be expected from the moment<br />

training with you begins, right until the<br />

end?<br />

I’d be giving away my secrets!<br />

If it's all day, we have courses which are<br />

broken down into series. They range<br />

from Handle Your Heels, which is one<br />

of my favourites because it is for<br />

women and men, with no restrictions<br />

on height, gender, or race - just bring<br />

your heels and make sure they’re over<br />

four inches. There's something about<br />

when you put your shoes on before you<br />

leave the house and you just feel<br />

dressed, you feel complete. That's one of<br />

the other reasons why I created Handle<br />

Your Heels, because I just feel there is<br />

a level of empowerment that comes<br />

with wearing a pair of heels, your shoes<br />

are fantastic, your bag, your clothing.<br />

When I was developing the<br />

course, I looked at how I how I wanted<br />

to feel if I was coming along, what<br />

is the journey I want to take people on,<br />

so at the end of the three and a<br />

half hours that we were together, you<br />

leave with something you can<br />

implement into the rest of your journey.<br />

I also have Feel Like a Woman, Walk<br />

Like a Boss. That's more for<br />

empowering women to be bosses in<br />

their own right, but also maintain<br />

their morals, have integrity, know that<br />

you're strong enough to do it but<br />

also weak enough to stay feminine at<br />

the same time. I don’t mean this in<br />

a derogative way, but female<br />

empowerment sometimes is very “I can<br />

do all this by myself”, but the truth is<br />

that need your community. No man is<br />

an island, as my parents always said.<br />


Apart from getting these models further<br />

in their career, what is<br />

the most fulfilling part of model training<br />

for you?<br />

Their success is my success. After the<br />

training session with me, having the<br />

coaching and the mentoring, I know<br />

that when they step into an arena,<br />

they are walking comfortably and<br />

walking proud knowing that they’ve got<br />

this, so that means I've been successful.<br />

Though training is very good for<br />

finetuning skills, do you think it<br />

is an essential step towards success or<br />

can it be skipped (due to financial issues,<br />

lack of time etc.)?<br />

Anything that anybody wants out of life,<br />

you’ll make time for. We can always use<br />

the excuse of “I don't have the time” or<br />

“financially, I can't”, and I understand it<br />

with coming out of a lockdown into a<br />

new normal, but if you want to be as<br />

good as you can be, or you want to be<br />

the best at what you are doing, you will<br />

make time. It will then determine your<br />

commitment, level of experience,<br />

professionalism, and everything else<br />

that comes with the industry.<br />

Do you have any words of<br />

encouragement for models hoping to<br />

get into training?<br />

Come and see me! To date, I don’t know<br />

of any other woman that is doing<br />

what I do; training is an integral part of<br />

success in this industry, and often<br />

I see a lot of flaws as a consultant<br />

myself. The big agencies can only take<br />

a certain number of models of colour,<br />

models with ginger hair; training will<br />

ensure that they see you as someone<br />

worth their while, and someone<br />

worth representing them. Training will<br />

get your foot in the door.<br />

So, should you itch for a heaped<br />

spoonful of female empowerment with<br />

a sprinkle of first-class discipline, let me<br />

know. I know just who to call.<br />

You can find more of Jessica’s work on<br />

her Instagram @whatjesstypes.<br />

Follow Maxine on Instagram<br />

@the_model_workshops for castings,<br />

advice, and news about upcoming<br />

sessions.<br />

What are some things that models<br />

trained by you went on to do?<br />

Magazines, videos, large Fashion Week<br />

shows in Paris, Milan, New York.<br />

Since we had the Black Lives Matter<br />

movement, as a British-born black<br />

woman, I feel we have a lot more<br />

visibility we didn't have before. I'm<br />

actually seeing people in adverts, doing<br />

things and I'm thinking “Yep, remember<br />

you when you came”, and I’m genuinely<br />

very happy and excited to see where it<br />

goes from here.<br />

Just being part of what happened<br />

in the past two years and part of the<br />

Windrush generation as well, watching<br />

the work that my parents put in all<br />

those years ago so that we could have a<br />

say; it's amazing to witness people that<br />

have gone on and on to be better, be<br />

greater and have the time of their life on<br />

the runway of life.<br />

The doors that don’t open, you kick<br />

them open!

Sirens<br />

Accessory Designer/Other/Fashion Designer/Retoucher/Photographer: Eva Cass @evamaedesigns<br />

Models: Josephine Landry @josie.landry; Alison Leitao @alileitao; Emma Lynch @emma.lynch<br />

Assistant: Anne Marie Costantino @anniecostaa21<br />

Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Photographer: Julia McDonough @mcdonoughjulia<br />

All wardrobe by Eva Cass<br />

Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass

Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, jewellery - Eva Cass

Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.

Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass

Emma wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, and concrete earrings - Eva Cass

Josephine wears: hand-beaded, hand-dyed suit - Eva Cass

Alison wears: dress, deadstock rope harness, concrete earrings - Eva Cass

Josephine wears: hand-beaded draped gauze skirt, draped shirt with wooden closure, rope undergarments, pearl earrings - Eva Cass.

Josephine wears: linen suit with concrete and metal closures, hand-beaded net - Eva Cass



Name: Alissa Schrag<br />

Age: 19<br />

Location: Switzerland/Zurich<br />

Agency: Freelance (Muse of Marti)<br />

Agent: Christoph Marti<br />

How long have you been modelling<br />

for?<br />

My "career" as a model started at the<br />

beginning of the year. I was contacted<br />

by various photographers for shoots<br />

via Instagram and then had the<br />

opportunity to work with Robert<br />

Ramseier in Switzerland. Now I have<br />

about 5 photo shoots which I can list<br />

as experience - but there are many<br />

great projects planned. Being in front<br />

of the camera has always been a big<br />

dream of mine.<br />

Where are you from originally?<br />

I grew up and was born in beautiful<br />

Switzerland in the middle of Europe.<br />

Do you have an unusual talent or<br />

party trick?<br />

Besides modelling, painting is one of<br />

my great passions. I have discovered<br />

this talent and can no longer let my<br />

fingers from brushes. When painting I<br />

can give free rein to my creativity.<br />

Therefore, I also like modelling - I am<br />

a very artistic person<br />

What would surprise people to know<br />

about you?<br />

I am a very determined and focused<br />

person. When I set my mind on<br />

something, I want to achieve it.<br />

Whether it's modelling or my passion<br />

of drawing where I can work without<br />

problems 7 hours at a time to get the<br />

right result. In addition, I am someone<br />

who can talk well.<br />

What are your modelling ambitions?<br />

My goal would be to have a range.<br />

Since one month I am the muse of<br />

Christoph Marti - the Swiss<br />

photographer - and I want to work<br />

out a way with him to become better<br />

known. The next steps are certainly<br />

magazine publications that will come<br />

in the next few months and my<br />

dreams are to be a cover photo on<br />

Vogue or on big ads.<br />

Studio: Studio 1<br />

Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti<br />

Model: Alissa @chupxcabra<br />

Wardrobe Stylist: Tanja Busé<br />

Alissa wears: Diesel; The Kooples; Dolce & Gabbana<br />




Name: Dekaya Hewlett<br />

Age: 19<br />

Location: Huntsville, Alabama<br />

Agency: Pama Models<br />

How long have you been modelling<br />

for?<br />

I’ve been modeling for 2 months.<br />

Where are you from originally?<br />

I’m originally from Huntsville,<br />

Alabama.<br />

Do you have an unusual talent or<br />

party trick?<br />

My unusual talent is being myself,<br />

that simple quality isn’t normalized in<br />

today’s society.<br />

What would surprise people to know<br />

about you?<br />

People will be surprised to know I<br />

graduated high school at 16 at the top<br />

of my class.<br />

What are your modelling ambitions?<br />

I’m very ambitious about being in<br />

Vogue one day.<br />

Hair Stylist: Pretty Dolls Collection @prettydolls.collection<br />

Makeup Artist: Makemiup @makemiup<br />

Model: Dekaya Hewlett at Pama Models @xjunodkaayy_<br />

Photographer: Pama Models @pamamodels<br />




Name: Lois J Elise<br />

Age: 29<br />

Location: London<br />

Agency: Unique Models London<br />

How long have you been modelling<br />

for?<br />

3 years<br />

Where are you from originally?<br />

Windsor, UK<br />

Do you have an unusual talent or<br />

party trick?<br />

I can speak Japanese! I have studied<br />

the language since I was 13.<br />

What would surprise people to know<br />

about you?<br />

I have a PhD in Japanese cinema and<br />

fashion history, and am also a<br />

qualified passenger boat captain.<br />

What are your modelling ambitions?<br />

I want my modelling to inspire others<br />

to enjoy fashion and to feel<br />

comfortable in their own skin - I am a<br />

passionate body positivity advocate.<br />

Lois wears: Headband - France Luxe; Dress - Vixen by Micheline Pitt;<br />

Sunglasses - Gucci; Watch - Fitbit; Scarf on bag, silver ring and pearls -<br />

True Vintage Ootd; Pearl ring - Ray Makes Things; Bag - Thrifted<br />



It is important for me to fall in love with heroes<br />

during photography, otherwise you can't get sincere<br />

shots. I like to photograph children and old people -<br />

both are most open and do not seek to pose.<br />

In my works, I strive to show what is always with us,<br />

but at the same time, it is closed and not given<br />

importance - hugs, family values, belonging to<br />

culture, children's games and memories.<br />

Wardrobe Stylist: Юлия Джемова @julia_jam__<br />

Models: Ariadna Golubeva at Mint Models Russia<br />

@arish_goly; Vera Lipunova @lipunovavera; Artem<br />

Sigaev @artem_sigaev; Saveliy Molchanov<br />

@come.on.savva; Габриэль Оганян @gabriellife26;<br />

Sofia Somova @sofia_somova_; Zarina And Marina<br />

@goldentwins.13<br />

Photographer: Дарья Шевченко @chuda.photo<br />

portfolio<br />







Big lips were in, and lip liner encircled<br />

<br />

Ah, the runway show experience —<br />

inspirational, on-point street style<br />

outside of show venues, the veritable<br />

hyper-stylish elite clocking fellow<br />

stars, the active buzz of top hair and<br />

makeup artists behind-the-scenes as<br />

gorgeous creatures sip champagne and<br />

pick at delicacies while being painted<br />

and coiffed, the hush as the lights shift,<br />

the music pumps, cameras flash, and<br />

the thrilling future of what could<br />

change closets, requests at salons, and<br />

contents of makeup bags is revealed.<br />

For many years, this was the runway<br />

show experience, until things changed<br />

and created an opportunity to<br />

creatively rethink what a runway<br />

show could be. Even when formats<br />

changed and digital shows became<br />

commonplace, the passionate vision<br />

for forecasting the future of fashion<br />

and beauty did not. Designers, those<br />

fine artists who hang their art on the<br />

human canvas, reliably refuse to<br />

compromise showcasing their<br />

creations to the max— thank God.<br />

However, after the show, their visions<br />

should be translated into what is<br />

suitable for each individual to ensure<br />

that physical appeal is maximized.<br />

Understanding what inspires trends,<br />

such as those from past decades, can<br />

give great insight into how to best<br />

creatively utilise them to enhance<br />

physical appeal; one can and should<br />

cherry pick or twist elements of a<br />

trend so it can be personalised.<br />

In a review of current trends, the<br />

nineties are making a reappearance<br />

but with unique and modern twists. In<br />

the 1990s, grunge, glamour, and<br />

minimalism collided head-on, and just<br />

as during the 1960s, when the spirit of<br />

anything goes was the practiced belief,<br />

the 1990s employed a similar attitude,<br />

especially when it came to selfexpression,<br />

individuality, and “just<br />

being who you are.”<br />

the outer perimeter of the lips to help<br />

them appear larger. A more subdued<br />

and neutral colour palette became<br />

standard as “the natural look” came<br />

into style. Eyeliner and eye colours<br />

were soft and subtle. Skin went from<br />

being matte-textured to more natural<br />

and shiny, with shiny giving way to<br />

glittery, funky, and fun everything.<br />

“Heroin chic” and the “waif-look”<br />

were brought in by model Kate Moss,<br />

and emulated, playing a big part in the<br />

decade. Several cosmetic companies<br />

answered the call for the need for<br />

more funky makeup and nail colours.<br />

Small breasts gave way to all sizes of<br />

breasts being in, and a hint of the looks<br />

from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1960s made<br />

their appearance during the decade.<br />

Another decade that is trending, for<br />

the obvious reason, is the twenties. In<br />

the 1920s, short skirts, short hair, and<br />

rebellion were in. Wearing makeup<br />

was taboo before then; however, by<br />

the 1920s, no one fashionable left<br />

home without wearing it.<br />

Pale skin was in, and raspberry or<br />

orange-hued rouge toned down with<br />

facial powder was worn on the cheeks.<br />

The eyes and eyelashes were heavily<br />

defined with dark eye makeup which<br />

was used on the lower eyelash line and<br />

eyelids, as was turquoise or green. The<br />

famous cupid’s bow-shaped lips,<br />

which were permanently pursed in a<br />

“kiss”, inspired by the actress Clara<br />

Bow, were drawn on the lips in reds,<br />

deep reds, brown-reds, plum, oranges,


DRESS: Jil Sander Silk Dress In Style RN.<br />

104642 - CA 34767<br />

BELT: Dior Black Belt<br />

NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro In<br />

Baby Love<br />

MAKEUP:<br />

EYES: Dior Backstage - Custom Eye Palette,<br />

Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer In<br />

920/Black Orchid, Milk Makeup KUSH High<br />

Volumizing Mascara<br />

EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge<br />

CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars<br />

Blush In Orgasm<br />

LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip<br />

Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Bobbi<br />

Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip Color In<br />

Pink, Bobbi Brown Creamy, Semi-Matte Lip<br />

Color In Brown<br />

rose, and raspberry in matte-textures.<br />

These products would often be soapbased<br />

and dry out the lips. Liquid<br />

rouge defined the lip shape, like an<br />

early lip liner, and lip colour filled in<br />

the lips. Eyebrows were drawn on in<br />

thin, dark, arched, elongated, and<br />

downward-sloped thin or odd shapes<br />

denoting emotional expression.<br />

Fashion hero Coco Chanel was a<br />

powerful influence in the 1920s and<br />

ushered in the healthy look of a tan,<br />

amongst other style-changing trends.<br />

Orange makeup mimicked the look of<br />

a tan, and legs and smaller breasts<br />

were in.<br />

Besides knowing the history behind a<br />

trend, to pull from it what personally<br />

resonates and inspires, physical<br />

attributes, such as skin undertone,<br />

facial features, and their balance, as<br />

well as personal style are also<br />

important to examine to know how to<br />

best use a trend to one’s advantage. To<br />

determine your facial attributes, view<br />

the videos DISCOVER YOUR FACE<br />



DIVISIONS, and others on the CHARIS<br />

MICHELSEN YouTube channel.<br />

For example, if a trending colour does<br />

not work well for your skin’s<br />

undertone and you want to wear it, try<br />

a version of that colour that better<br />

suits you. If orange is trending, and<br />

your skin’s undertone is cool, try<br />

wearing red-orange or red instead of<br />

orange. If bright lip colours are<br />

trending and you look better in darker<br />

lip colours, try mixing a favorite<br />

darker colour with a bright colour that<br />

works well with your skin’s<br />

undertone.<br />

This goes for the placement of<br />

cosmetics as well. If you have closespaced<br />

eyes and it is trending to<br />

encircle the eyes with eyeliner, bypass<br />

applying the eyeliner to the inner<br />

upper and lower third of your eyes or<br />

only apply light colours of eyeliner to<br />

this area.<br />

There is a science to looking one’s best,<br />

which was perfected through the<br />

world’s first Universal Beauty<br />

Standard System which was used to<br />

create the illustrated and<br />

comprehensive beauty books<br />

Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star<br />

Makeup and Grooming For Men: From<br />

Dirty to polished. These books instruct<br />

on how to look your personal best by<br />


using easy-to-follow cosmetic<br />

techniques and offering original tips,<br />

such as the timeless “four-point rule”<br />

to ensure your maximum physical<br />

appeal is achieved no matter what is<br />

trending on the runway.<br />

The following is an excerpt about the<br />

“four-point rule” from Hollywood<br />

Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup:<br />


Count each “point of interest” as one<br />

point.<br />

NOTE: You can choose to wear fewer<br />

“points of interest” than four but not<br />

more than four if you do not want to<br />

look overstated. If garments of the<br />

same colour are worn together as if<br />

they are one continuous piece, their<br />

point total would equal one.<br />

For example, if you wear boots, pants,<br />

and a top in the same colour of bright<br />

orange, where there are no breaks in<br />

colour, where you do not see skin or<br />

another colour, those pieces working<br />

together would equal one point.<br />


A viewer’s eyes are drawn to look at:<br />

1: Vibrant makeup.<br />

2: Dark makeup.<br />

3: Light-reflective makeup or opaque<br />

matte-textured makeup (other than a<br />

concealer, foundation, or powder).<br />

4: Hairstyles that appear “done”/any<br />

hairstyle that requires hairspray or<br />

another product to hold it in place, etc<br />

5: Busy patterns of clothing or clothing<br />

that contains embellishments or<br />

ornate details, such as multiple<br />

zippers, ruffles, etc.<br />

6: Articles of clothing that are<br />

revealing.<br />

7: Shoes, clothing, and/or accessories<br />

in bold “statement” colours, such as<br />

red, etc.<br />

8: Accessories in general, such as hats,<br />

bracelets, etc.<br />

MAKEUP:<br />

Both makeup “LOOK #2” and “LOOK<br />

#3” count as one point. The point of<br />

interest will be your lips in “LOOK #2”<br />

and your eyes in “LOOK #3.” “LOOK<br />

#1” counts as zero points, as the face<br />

has no points of interest. NOTE:<br />

“LOOK #4” counts as two points, as<br />

your lips and eyes are both points of<br />

interest. See chapter THE FOUR BASIC<br />

FACES for additional information.<br />

EXAMPLE 1:<br />

You can wear a bold ruffled blouse (+1<br />

point), simple blue jeans (+0 points),<br />

brightly coloured shoes (+1 point), a<br />

statement ring (+1 point), a simple<br />

black handbag (+0 points), and makeup<br />

LOOK #2 (+1 points) = 4 points.<br />

Variation example:<br />

If you want to wear a bold handbag (+1<br />

point), choose to wear makeup LOOK<br />

#1 (+ 0 points) = 4 points.<br />

EXAMPLE 2:<br />

You can wear a simple black dress (+0<br />

points), simple black pumps (+0<br />

1920s Makeup<br />

1990s Makeup<br />



(From The Book<br />

Hollywood Beauty:<br />

The Art Of Star<br />

Makeup By Charis<br />


points), a colourful clutch (+1 point),<br />

layered, bold necklaces (+1 point), a<br />

bold bracelet (+1 point), and makeup<br />

LOOK #3 (+1 point) = 4 points.<br />

Variation example:<br />

Trade the simple black dress for a<br />

patterned one (+ 1 point), and take off<br />

the necklaces (+ 0 points) = 4 points.<br />

Stick with the “Four Point Rule” and<br />

add up your points. By not exceeding<br />

four “points of interest” at any given<br />

time, you will always look your best.<br />

Also, consider the inspiration for a<br />

runway trend and your personal<br />

needs when styling the fabulous you.<br />

More information and examples<br />

available in Hollywood Beauty: The<br />

Art of Star Makeup by Charis<br />

Michelsen.<br />

In forecasting the future of fashion<br />

and beauty, the vote is for the<br />

maximization of one’s physical appeal<br />

and consciousness will always be in<br />

style— the more one chooses healthy<br />

and cruelty-free fashion and cosmetic<br />

products, the better. Some<br />

inspirational style icons who have<br />

made fashion and beauty their own,<br />

no matter the trends, are Gabrielle<br />

Coco Chanel, Jacklyn Kennedy<br />

Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Jimi<br />

Hendrix, Ali MacGraw, Steve<br />

McQueen, David Bowie, Tom Ford,<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker, and Victoria<br />

Beckham. Remember that following<br />

runway trends is not mandatory.<br />

If you love a specific look, and it is not<br />

“in” at the moment, do not let that<br />

deter you from embracing it; at some<br />

point, you might be the one starting a<br />

hot new trend that will be seen on the<br />

runway!<br />

For more information and to view<br />

videos from Charis Michelsen, be sure<br />

to like, subscribe, or follow her on her<br />

social media channels:<br />

YouTube channel: CHARIS<br />


Instagram: @charismichelsen_official<br />

TikTok: charismichelsen_official<br />

Facebook: official.charismichelsen<br />

Twitter: OfficialCharisM<br />

Official Website: charismichelsen.com<br />

How to contact Charis Michelsen:<br />

AGENT: Sheila Finegan<br />

sheila@trinityartist.com<br />

MANAGER: Jeff Smith<br />

jeff@trinityartist.com<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel Weber<br />

@danielweber_photography<br />


Michelsen @charismichelsen_official<br />

HAIR: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton<br />

Salon Of Beverly Hills @hairbysylvie<br />

ARTWORK: Charis Michelsen (From<br />

The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art<br />

Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)<br />

charismichelsen.com<br />


EXAMPLE 1<br />

(From The Book Hollywood<br />

Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup<br />

By Charis Michelsen)


MARK FAST Photography<br />

by Fil Mazzarino<br />








TIGER OF<br />

SWEDEN<br />

Photography by Fil Mazzarino<br />





Photography by Ian Clark<br />




STYLE<br />


GUIDE<br />

ethical and sustainable style guide<br />

selected by Cicilia Brognoli<br />

Matches Fashion<br />

Sequinned<br />

cropped top<br />

£430.00<br />

Rejina Pyo<br />

Volume Hoops Gold<br />

Plated with Blue Enamel<br />

£195.00<br />

Browns Fashion<br />

Fauna Floral<br />

Print Dress<br />

£220.00<br />

Mother of Pearl<br />

Esther black daisy<br />

dress<br />

£395.00<br />

Molly Goddard<br />

Sendai Bag Red Pink<br />

£420.00<br />

Matches Fashion<br />

Asymmetric wool<br />

and lurex sweater<br />

dress<br />

£1,170.00<br />

Rejina Pyo<br />

Hattie Dress<br />

Organic Cotton<br />

Print Flower Amber<br />

£650<br />

Browns Fashion<br />

Fleur Lace Maxi Dress<br />

£650.00<br />

H&M Conscious<br />

shaping swimsuit<br />

£24.99<br />

Yuhan Wang<br />

AISTE rose lace tiered<br />

skirt<br />

£529.00<br />

Erdem<br />

Small Crystal Knot<br />

Clip Earrings<br />

£295.00<br />

Molly Goddard<br />

Jimmy Dress Pink<br />

£1,300.00<br />

Rejina Pyo<br />

Malia Sandals<br />

Leather Orange<br />

£395.00<br />


PAGE 66<br />

Yuhan Wang<br />

Draped jacquard trousers<br />




This month, Cicilia illustrates the<br />

history of one of the most famous<br />

British fashion houses, Alexander<br />

McQueen. Many of you probably<br />

know this name very well. For those<br />

who have recently landed on the<br />

fashion planet, this brand’s fame<br />

spiked as their oversized trainers<br />

were the most popular womenswear<br />

item in 2019.<br />

Lee Alexander McQueen, founder of<br />

the eponymous company, was born<br />

in 1969 in Lewisham. His father was a<br />

Scottish taxi driver who instilled in<br />

him a deep love for his homeland,<br />

and his mother was a social science<br />

teacher. In addition to Scotland, one<br />

of his passions and artistic<br />

inspirations was birds. In fact, as a<br />

young man, he was a member of the<br />

Young Ornithologists' Club.<br />

McQueen was not very keen on<br />

school, and at the age of sixteen, he<br />

dropped out to devote himself to<br />

tailoring. He immediately landed in<br />

the famous Saville Row by chance or<br />

talent, where he did an<br />

apprenticeship. Between the ages of<br />

sixteen and twenty, he had many<br />

work experiences. For example, he<br />

worked as a theatrical costumier for<br />

Angels and Bermans, where he<br />

created the costumes for the Les<br />

Misérables show. After that, he<br />

moved to Milan working for Romeo<br />

Gigli and later returned to attend<br />

Central Saint Martins.<br />

In fact, given his innate talent, he<br />

coveted the position of pattern<br />

cutter tutor; however, he was too<br />

young to teach. In 1992 he enrolled<br />

in an MA. His graduation<br />

collection, called Jack the Ripper<br />

Stalks His Victims, was a reckless<br />

success. In fact, the stylist Isabella<br />

Blow bought all the outfits. She had<br />

a massive influence on the future<br />

success of the British designer; she<br />

persuaded him to use his middle<br />

name, Alexander. This was a<br />

marketing strategy and, at the same<br />

time, a trick to prevent the job<br />

centre he was affiliated with from<br />

finding out he was working. Blow<br />

was a mentor for Alexander<br />

McQueen, and she offered him her<br />

home basement. According to her,<br />

this would have given Alexander a<br />

safe working and living space<br />

without struggling financially and<br />

losing his focus on fashion.<br />

<br />



Creating a stir seemed like a hobby<br />

for McQueen, who was later accused<br />

of exalting slavery, sexualising<br />

women, and being a lover of horror.<br />

After the first few years of<br />

controversy, McQueen landed in<br />

the graces of musical celebrities.<br />

He designed the wardrobe for<br />

David Bowie's 1997 tour, which<br />

includes the Union Jack coat. He<br />

also worked with Björk, directing<br />

her music video 'Alarm Call' and<br />

designing a topless dress.<br />

McQueen initially took inspiration for<br />

all of his collections from famous<br />

films. Taxi Driver, his first postgraduation<br />

collection, was based on<br />

Martin Scorsese's film. This was a real<br />

success, as it introduced the 'bumsters',<br />

also known as low-rise jeans.<br />

McQueen's runways have always been<br />

bold and provocative. So, it's not a<br />

coincidence that he was called 'the<br />

hooligan of English fashion'. The<br />

designer, creative but with a complex<br />

personality, presented the fashion<br />

show Nihilism featuring models<br />

covered with fake blood and bruises.<br />

In 1994, McQueen met Katy England<br />

and decided to make her his righthand<br />

man, or rather his adviser. The<br />

first collection they worked on<br />

together was The Birds, a roadkill<br />

themed catwalk featuring tire marks,<br />

paying homage to Alfred Hitchcock's<br />

film. McQueen's fame, a<br />

misunderstood genius, collected many<br />

negative reviews over the first years.<br />

However, his fame spiked when<br />

Madonna wore her 'bumsters' jeans in<br />

an MTV advert in 1994.<br />

At the age of thirty, McQueen was<br />

named Head of Design for<br />

Givenchy, following the departure<br />

of John Galliano. The Count Hubert<br />

de Givenchy was by no means<br />

happy with this, considering<br />

McQueen utterly inappropriate for<br />

his fashion house. McQueen's<br />

debut for Givenchy was with the<br />

Spring / Summer 1997 collection, a<br />

homage to ancient Greece. As<br />

refined as it was, teeming with<br />

white and gold, it differed from<br />

Galliano's lavish collections.<br />

Fake blood appeared very often on<br />

McQueen's catwalks. In fact,<br />

Highland Rape, a collection aimed at<br />

exposing Scotland's 'rape' at the<br />

hands of England, was a mix of fake<br />

blood and torn apart clothes.<br />

Unfortunately, not everyone<br />

understood the show's true<br />

meaning, and McQueen was accused<br />

of misogyny as many thought it<br />

referred to the rape of women.


Back in London, he designed the It's a<br />

Jungle out There collection, inspired<br />

by gazelles daily hunted by lions. He<br />

empathised a lot with these savannah<br />

victims. Although he felt oppressed by<br />

the fashion industry with its negative<br />

reviews on his past collections, the<br />

new one was a success. He rode the<br />

wave of positive reviews and started<br />

to play a lot also with set design.<br />

Indeed, his Spring/Summer 1998<br />

collection, Untitled, was presented on<br />

a catwalk made of water and yellow<br />

lights, while the next one had a<br />

masked model standing in a circle of<br />

fire.<br />

McQueen didn't actually leave<br />

Givenchy peacefully; in fact, he was<br />

fired. In 2000, he signed an<br />

agreement with Gucci selling 51% of<br />

his own company. The Italian and<br />

French brands were rivals, and for this<br />

reason, Givenchy dismissed him.<br />

This was the only strategy to revive<br />

Alexander McQueen's brand, which<br />

soon opened boutiques worldwide,<br />

expanding to perfume, eyewear<br />

accessories, and menswear. With<br />

considerable financial backing from<br />

Gucci, McQueen continued with his<br />

bold and provocative runways.<br />

His last public appearance was<br />

during the Paris Fashion Week in<br />

February 2009, when he presented<br />

Plato's Atlantis collection. The show<br />

was supposed to be broadcast live<br />

on the internet, but the site crashed<br />

when Lady Gaga tweeted about the<br />

upcoming show.<br />

McQueen had a twisted personality,<br />

often felt misunderstood by others,<br />

and was almost pathologically<br />

introverted. He committed suicide,<br />

as did his mentor Isabella Blow who<br />

died in 2007, at his home in Mayfair<br />

in 2010.<br />

At the time, he only had very few<br />

uncompleted pieces for his<br />

Autumn/Winter 2010 collection,<br />

which were finished by his team.<br />

A handful of fashion editors attended<br />

that show and then reported how<br />

creepy it was to perceive McQueen's<br />

obsession with the afterlife just by<br />

observing those sixteen outfits.<br />

Gucci's financial support ensured the<br />

continuation of the brand and by<br />

Sarah Burton, McQueen's assistant,<br />

who was appointed Creative Director.<br />

Burton designed Catherine<br />

Middleton's wedding dress and won<br />

the prize Designer of the Year during<br />

the 2011 British Fashion Awards.<br />

Although McQueen's ready-towear<br />

is now much more famous<br />

than his first runways, I<br />

recommend you to check out the<br />

incredible shows created by<br />

McQueen himself. His shows'<br />

setting was not just a contour to his<br />

clothes but an externalisation of<br />

the designer's disturbances and<br />

obsessions that could not be<br />

recreated in fabric and<br />

haberdashery.<br />

You can find more of Cicilia's<br />

works by visiting<br />

ciciliabrognoli.com<br />

Images by Cicilia Brognoli from the<br />

Roses exhibition held in the<br />

Alexander McQueen flagship store<br />

in Bond Street from November<br />

2019 to May 2020.



Models: Ayla Imogen; Ivie Akira; Lacey Rae; Lara Jane; Scarlett; Stephany Ioana @stephanyioana;<br />

Tylda; Vivienne Monique @vivienne.monique; Ysabella Kristeen<br />

<br />

Designer: Anne Wilkinson - Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou<br />

<br />

Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks - @ram.eagle<br />

<br />

Location: Historic Rose Garden, Southsea - Portsmouth



9: New Balance MADE UK 991<br />

7: Converse x Ambush CTAS Duck Boot<br />

<br />

This week, Thomas Woods details the<br />

best big brand ‘under the radar’<br />

sneakers that will compliment your<br />

autumn and winter wardrobes- whilst<br />

also saving you some pennies.<br />

With streetwear at its highest point of<br />

popularity, everybody wants the latest<br />

and greatest sneakers, which often leads<br />

to the newest releases being hard to<br />

come by. From the front runners such<br />

as Nike and Adidas, to the low profilers<br />

like New Balance and Converse, this list<br />

is what you need to track down those<br />

must-haves. Being a shoe lover myself, I<br />

have compiled the 10 best value for<br />

money unisex sneakers that these<br />

leading shoe brands have to offer for<br />

the upcoming autumn and winter<br />

period.<br />

QUICK TIP: For the best prices on all<br />

these shoes, make sure to check out if<br />

there are any discount codes available<br />

(especially if you’re a student).<br />

(Price): £170.00<br />

(Colourway): green/wine/yellow<br />

With the emergence of the ‘dad’ shoe,<br />

New Balance made its triumphant<br />

return. This chunky 991 was<br />

“constructed for comfort and style”,<br />

with its warm earth tones perfectly<br />

matching the autumnal changing of the<br />

leaves. The shoe’s suede upper adds to<br />

this warm appearance overall and I<br />

believe this would be a great addition to<br />

your collection if you’re willing to<br />

spend a bit extra.<br />

(Price): £84.97<br />

(Colourway): white/black<br />

If we are talking durability, this shoe<br />

goes top of the list. This 2020 release<br />

combines the Converse name with<br />

established luxury brand Ambush to<br />

produce a high-top boot, made up of a<br />

combination of mesh material for<br />

comfort as well as a leather bottom for<br />

durability. At half its original price, this<br />

boot would add a bit of luxury to your<br />

winter wardrobe whilst also not setting<br />

you back too far. It also comes in a<br />

bright blue colourway if you’re feeling<br />

more adventurous!<br />

10: Adidas Originals Samba Vegan Shoes<br />

(Price): £70.00<br />

(Colourway): cloud white/core<br />

black/gum<br />

Nothing like bringing something back, is<br />

there? This classic Adidas silhouette<br />

goes back to 1949 and has been everpresent<br />

since, with the shoe slowly<br />

beginning to re-emerge as a fashionable<br />

favourite for both men and women.<br />

With this planet-friendly iteration, you<br />

get the classic shape and those timeless<br />

three stripes all along with a neutral<br />

colour palette that goes with absolutely<br />

everything. For £70, I think this is a<br />

reliable choice for the upcoming<br />

autumn period.<br />

8: Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage<br />

(Price): £89.95<br />

(Colourway): white/black<br />

A product of the 1970s, the Nike Blazer<br />

Mid ’77 Vintage was originally tested as<br />

a basketball sneaker but eventually<br />

became a staple lifestyle shoe. As a<br />

potential high-top replacement for the<br />

overpriced Jordan 1 silhouette, this shoe<br />

matches with almost anything and will<br />

be certain to keep your ankles warm in<br />

winter. At £90, I think this is a shoe well<br />

worth having... just make sure to use<br />

shoe protector to keep them looking<br />

brand new!<br />

6: Converse Color Vintage Canvas<br />

Chuck 70<br />

(Price): £75.00<br />

(Colourway): deep<br />

bordeaux/egret/black<br />

Not much needs to be said about this<br />

all-time classic shoe... it really is the<br />

definition of timeless. The adaptable<br />

high-top sneaker comes in at sixth place<br />

in a plum-like colourway with an aged<br />

cream bottom. The richness of the<br />

darkish red is bound to integrate<br />

perfectly into your autumnal colour<br />

palettes, and with the lower price-point,<br />

it’s a no-brainer!<br />



2. Nike Lahar Low<br />

(Price): £114.95<br />

(Colourway):<br />

hemp/grain/orange/smoke<br />

5: Nike Free Run Trail<br />

(Price): £109.95<br />

(Colourway): driftwood, white & black<br />

A slightly left of centre choice, the Nike<br />

Free Run Trail is a comfort-based shoe<br />

that is perfect for those on the go. Nike<br />

combines an airy mesh upper with a<br />

light brown suede and a foam midsole<br />

to create a sneaker that will last you<br />

through the autumn and winter months.<br />

The colourway is one of my favourites<br />

on this list as it combines shades of<br />

brown and orange with a crisp white,<br />

which certainly offers solid autumnal<br />

vibes. A higher price point is a<br />

downside, but the comfort it provides is<br />

unmatched.<br />

4: Nike Dunk High<br />

(Price): various<br />

(Colourway): navy/white<br />

This may be a shoe that many expected<br />

not to be on this list considering its high<br />

popularity. Over the last year, Nike have<br />

released an array of Dunk High<br />

colourways, with the ‘Championship<br />

Navy’ edition being one of its most<br />

slept-on pairs. It offers a high-top<br />

alternative to more common silhouettes<br />

and has a clean, neutral colour balance<br />

that would pair brilliantly with varsity<br />

jackets and much more. Despite it being<br />

sold out at Nike, resell websites such as<br />

StockX have them listed at relatively<br />

affordable prices depending on size, and<br />

with the sheer popularity of the shoe, it<br />

is certainly a piece that would help you<br />

stand out from the crowd.<br />

3: Adidas Forum 84 Low<br />

(Price): £85<br />

(Colourway): off white/collegiate green<br />

/glow pink<br />

This 1984 silhouette comes in at third<br />

place with its unique but<br />

complimentary colour combination of<br />

peach, green, and off white. Adidas have<br />

produced a perfect chunky sneaker<br />

here, with its wide middle making it an<br />

ideal shoe to let sit under wide-leg jeans<br />

and various other bottoms, like cargos.<br />

Additionally, little details such as its<br />

Velcro lace strap and personalisation<br />

feature make it a purchase well worth<br />

its £85 price point.<br />

The top two picks were hard to<br />

separate, but coming up just short of top<br />

spot is the Nike Lahar Low in a brown<br />

colourway. A combination of a sneaker<br />

and boot, this new release from Nike<br />

looks like it can do it all. Apparently<br />

“built for the rugged urban landscape”,<br />

this model could fit just as well on the<br />

streets as it would do on a hike; the<br />

possibilities are endless! It’s a shoe that<br />

has most definitely flown under the<br />

radar, with it being readily available to<br />

buy right now. Go check it out, it has<br />

multiple colourways if this one fails to<br />

impress.<br />

1. Nike Blazer Low x Sacai<br />

(Price): £119<br />

(Colourway): tan/red<br />

Coming in at first place on the list has to<br />

be the recently released Nike x Sacai<br />

Blazer Low in the ‘British Tan’<br />

colourway. Possibly the best cold<br />

weather colourway I’ve seen in a while,<br />

this collaboration adds a popular brand<br />

to your collection while keeping your<br />

bank account looking healthy. The<br />

contrast of the red and tan alongside the<br />

beautiful suede materials creates a<br />

striking shoe that will still match with<br />

everything you have. The additional<br />

doubled tongue, laces, and bottom<br />

projects an unmistakeably Sacai look<br />

whilst keeping the overall shoe lowkey.<br />

At £119, I see this shoe as the best<br />

balance in terms of appearance, luxury,<br />

and price.<br />


I want to remind you that it's ok to have different emotions. You<br />

shouldn't blame yourself for your reactions. You shouldn't<br />

estimate yourself as a person for "bad" or "good" emotions.<br />

Furthermore, you are not your emotions.<br />

Model: Elena Berezhnova @letta.violetta<br />

Photographer: Maria Konakova @radio_ladio

Beauty Veil<br />

Models: Anastasia Gorishna @Nastyagorishna; Enplanafro @enplanafro<br />

Makeup Artist: Sarah Lily @glambysarahlily; Liudka @Liudka.b<br />

Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon<br />

Veils: Accesorize


London Runway was on hand to<br />

witness the live catwalk auditions to<br />

select the face (or feet!) of the upcoming<br />

Des O'Connors shoe collection. With<br />

insights from our Face of London<br />

Runway 2021 Womenswear winner,<br />

Kirsty Spence…<br />

On Saturday 11th September, a large<br />

group of hopeful models filed into the<br />

Holiday Inn in Kensington. They were a<br />

diverse bunch, all from different shapes<br />

and sizes and walks of life – and all of<br />

them were hoping for the chance to<br />

become the new ambassador for Des<br />

O’Connor’s shoes.<br />

With a prize worth £10,000 on the line,<br />

everyone was ready to put their best<br />

foot forward. And with our favourite<br />

model coach, Maxine Griffiths, at the<br />

helm, they all had an amazing shot!<br />

After a day of practice, the models<br />

walked out on the runway in front of a<br />

live audience, competing in three<br />

rounds to get to the top prize.<br />

The first round saw all the models<br />

stepping out in all-black outfits,<br />

bringing us to a neutral comparison of<br />

each of their talents. From there, they<br />

were given their own choice of their<br />

favourite outfit to wear with their own<br />

stunning, colourful shoes. Finally, the<br />

top entrants returned in new looks to<br />

answer some questions from the judges<br />

and get the chance to be crowned as the<br />

winners.<br />

Little did they know, there were actually<br />

more prizes to be won! The judges<br />

actually named winners in five<br />

categories as well as the overall winner.<br />



They were:<br />

<br />

Miss Impact – Maria Castiblanco<br />

Miss Achieve – Ewelina Salata<br />

Miss Courage – Hera Kruja<br />

Miss Influence – Kinga Orlicz<br />

Miss Energy – Lina Rahban<br />

DOC Winner 2021 – Melissa Luke<br />

Melissa will go home with five pairs of<br />

Des O’Connors shoes and will also<br />

model for the brand in the future.<br />

And she wasn’t the only winner on the<br />

day, either – with attendees all being<br />

entered into a raffle to win shoes and<br />

one on one motivational sessions with<br />

Des himself.<br />

“The models were amazing,” Kirsty told<br />

us after watching the show from the<br />

front row. “It was really professional,<br />

with a full-on catwalk. It was really<br />

vibrant, really upbeat. There was sass,<br />

there was attitude! I loved the diversity!”<br />

Jealous? Well, you might have missed<br />

out on this year, but that doesn’t mean<br />

you’ve missed every opportunity. Head<br />

to desoconnorsmodels.com to get the<br />

lowdown on the next opportunity – not<br />

to be missed if you’re an aspiring model,<br />

a shoe lover, or want to find<br />

empowerment for yourself as a woman!<br />

Take a peek over the next few pages to<br />

see the winners and runners up, as well<br />

as a highlight gallery of the most<br />

exciting shoes that the models wore on<br />

the day! What will the Des O’Connors<br />

shoe collection look like? Stay tuned for<br />

when it is launched in March to find<br />




Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio




Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio



Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio



Images by Fil Mazzarino



LFW came in full force this season with both digital and in-person presentations, but what<br />

was even better than nearly a week of innovative SS22 fashion? The street styles returned!<br />

Candice brings you LFW street style inspired trends fit for each unique sign.<br />

<br />

March 21 - April 20<br />

Aries<br />

The Amaury Coat in Green, Navy, and White<br />

Stripe is both versatile and bold, perfect for<br />

any season. By Alice Early, all of their pieces<br />

are designed and handmade in London with<br />

classic, structured designs perfect for this fire<br />

sign!<br />

April 21 - May 21<br />

Taurus<br />

Aligne’s Quilted Evie Sleeveless Liner features a<br />

drawstring waist and is the perfect layering<br />

must-have! Tauruses will love the comfortable<br />

design!<br />

May 22- June 21<br />

Gemini<br />

Eclectic and funky are words used to<br />

describe a Gemini and their style! Pair this<br />

sign with ROOP’s satin Baby ROOP Bag and<br />

you’ll have a match made in heaven!<br />

PAGE 104


Cancer<br />

June 22- July 22<br />

This feminine Virago Sleeve Top by Aardes<br />

in wild rose is perfect for elevating the<br />

classy Cancer’s traditional t-shirt and jeans<br />

fit. The limited edition top is 100% cotton<br />

and hand block printed in Jaipur, India.<br />

Leo<br />

July 23- August 21<br />

Knee and thigh high boots cannot be<br />

missed when looking back at LFW street<br />

styles. With Beyond Skin’s Roxie B Camel<br />

Faux Leather Knee High Vegan Boots, Leos<br />

will strut with confidence everywhere they<br />

go!<br />

Virgo<br />

August 22- September 23<br />

Diligent Virgos constantly on the go want<br />

nothing less than perfect, and this<br />

translates over to their fashion tastes as<br />

well! Oversized blazers never go wrong<br />

with their practical and chic aesthetic, like<br />

this Mother of Pearl Eden Prince of Wales<br />

Jacket!<br />

PAGE 105


Libra<br />

September 24- October 23<br />

Colour-blocking makes a return with<br />

fashion forward Libras leaping with joy to<br />

pair their favourite colour schemes<br />

together this season! Stella McCartney’s<br />

‘Maia’ coat is “splashed with vivid pink, red<br />

and orange hues.”<br />

October 24- November 22<br />

Scorpio<br />

Checks and ginghams are back, and<br />

Scorpios rock this undying trend like no<br />

other! Seventy + Mochi’s Victoria Blouse in<br />

Handwoven Berry Gingham showcases the<br />

duality of this compassionate yet stoic sign<br />

with its frill design and dark colouring.<br />

November 23- December 22<br />

Sagittarius<br />

Sagittariuses and Beaumont Organic<br />

are the experts of style and comfort. The<br />

Francesca Linen Top’s balloon sleeves and<br />

tie-up collar make for an elegant boho<br />

addition to both sign and brand!<br />

PAGE 106

Capricorn<br />

December 23- January 20<br />

Kairi London’s Julia Bag in their yin yang<br />

design is 100% vegan made from cactus<br />

leather. It fits almost everything a<br />

Capricorn may need of it and more!<br />

Aquarius<br />

January 21 - February 19<br />

Trendsetters through and through,<br />

Aquarians rock anything they don, setting<br />

the standard. This Mahogany Paradise set<br />

from House of Sunny features statement,<br />

printed pieces that they’re always drawn<br />

to.<br />

<br />

February 20 - March 20<br />

Pisces<br />

Yasmina Q’s Willow Dress in Sunrise<br />

Yellow features a full length design with<br />

jasmine ditsy print and cascading frills.<br />

Pisceans will love this ethereal, dreamy<br />

design, enhancing their intuition and<br />

femininity.<br />

You can see more of Candice's work on<br />

Instagram by following @Candice_x9.<br />

Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley<br />

All images via respective retailers<br />

PAGE 107

LONDON<br />


WEEK<br />

Photography by Fil Mazzarino



PAGE 110


PAGE 111

AFRICA<br />


AWARDS:<br />

KANDE<br />


Images by Fil Mazzarino

PAGE 113

LA DAMA<br />


Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />

@the_mj_studio<br />

PAGE 114


& IRELAND<br />

Paweł Majewski is the Founder and CEO of Miss Polski UK &<br />

Ireland.<br />

Miss Poland UK & Ireland 2021 - Sandra Salamon<br />

Miss Poland UK & Ireland Teen 2021 - Klaudia Kotlarz<br />

1st Vice Miss - Katarzyna Kriger<br />

1st Vice Miss Teen - Nikola Ladosz<br />

2nd Vice Miss - Nikolina Holuk<br />

2nd Vice Miss Teen - Jagoda Biegala<br />

Miss Photo Teen - Victoria Tadej<br />

Miss Photo - Marta Chrostowska<br />

Miss Internet Teenager - Victoria Tadej<br />

Miss Internet - Sandra Salamon<br />

Miss Teen Personality - Jagoda Biegala<br />

Miss personality - Anna Guzak<br />

Miss Smile - Nell Malczuk<br />

Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra<br />


PAGE 117

MOST<br />

THE<br />

ICONIC<br />


ALL TIME<br />

OF<br />


In the aftermath of London Fashion<br />

Week, Ruth Croft explores the most<br />

iconic supermodels of all time and<br />

their impact on modern society.<br />

Every September, just as the leaves<br />

begin to fall, the streets of the capital<br />

seem to quiver with anticipation as<br />

London Fashion Week returns. The<br />

revolutionary event first took place<br />

in October 1983, and is showcased<br />

twice a year - once in the spring, and<br />

then in the autumn - for designers to<br />

present their upcoming collections to<br />

the public. It is organised by the<br />

British Fashion Council, a not-forprofit<br />

establishment that, in addition<br />

to coordinating fashion events and<br />

awards, is responsible for supporting<br />

the next generation of designers.<br />

This year, the event was held from<br />

the 16th to the 21st of September,<br />

leading with the talents of Bora Aksu,<br />

Halpern, Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo,<br />

and ERDEM, to name but a few. The<br />

shows were split between both<br />

physical and digital events, due to<br />

the COVID-19 pandemic. But as<br />

always, it was remarkable to see the<br />

hard work of everyone involved in<br />

such a prestigious experience, and to<br />

express our appreciation of their<br />

dedication and genius.<br />

<br />

With this reminder of such talent, it<br />

rouses the conversation around to the<br />

other true power shining from events<br />

such as this: that which brings the<br />

designers’ dream to life, and styles it<br />

out magnificently on the runway. I<br />

am, of course, referring to the role of<br />

the models - more specifically, the<br />

elusive supermodel. The vague<br />

definition of said supermodel is<br />

simply a highly paid fashion model<br />

who is beautiful and famous enough<br />

to have cultural dominance. They<br />

typically have an illustrious<br />

reputation amongst prominent<br />

fashion designers, magazine editors,<br />

and beauty brands. Though it may<br />

seem undemanding to stand on the<br />

stage and look pretty, the art of<br />

modelling is a complicated role which<br />

requires a lot of energy. It is their job<br />

to showcase the designs, to cast them<br />

into the light, and reveal them as<br />

something entirely visionary. They<br />

are the presentation of ideals. And<br />

most of the time, they find<br />

themselves even more renowned<br />

than their creators, making<br />

themselves household names<br />

throughout the entire world.<br />

In light of this, here we explore the<br />

top most iconic supermodels of all<br />

time…<br />

Naomi Campbell<br />

Perhaps the most influential<br />

supermodel of the ‘90s, Naomi<br />

Campbell was the first person that<br />

came to mind when I thought about<br />

writing this article. Her era in the<br />

fashion industry began in the 1980s,<br />

and continues to this day, although<br />

her first appearance in the spotlight<br />

was when she starred in a Bob Marley<br />

music video at age seven. Known for<br />

her beauty and committed attitude to<br />

her work, Campbell soon established<br />

PAGE 118


herself as one of the most reputable<br />

models in the entire industry early<br />

on in her career, being awarded the<br />

title of ‘supermodel’ by the<br />

international press. It’s worth noting<br />

that she was the most famous black<br />

model of her time. Since then, she<br />

has also earned notoriety for being<br />

particularly philanthropic. Not only<br />

has she raised significant funds for<br />

the Nelson Mandela Children’s<br />

Funds, and raised awareness for<br />

breast cancer through Fashion<br />

Targets Breast Cancer, she is also the<br />

founder of the charityFashion for<br />

Relief, which organised fund-raising<br />

fashion events to aid victims of<br />

Hurricane Katrina in 2005.<br />

Cindy Crawford<br />

Rising to fame in the 1980s, Cindy<br />

Crawford soon became a part of<br />

what is now known as ‘the Big Six’,<br />

consisting of the top supermodels on<br />

the runway at the time. In her time,<br />

she had a reliable presence on<br />

fashion and lifestyle magazine<br />

covers, as well as various modelling<br />

campaigns and catwalks. She is best<br />

known for her voluminous, wavy<br />

hair, strong eyebrows, and her<br />

trademark beauty mark.<br />

earning her the nickname, ‘The<br />

Shrimp.’ She even helped popularise<br />

the mini skirt.<br />

Elle MacPherson<br />

The girl-next-door from Australia,<br />

Elle MacPherson was known for her<br />

smart and athletic aesthetic. She was<br />

enrolled at Sydney University to<br />

study Law, but began modelling to<br />

pay for her textbooks. She was soon<br />

posing on the covers of many<br />

American magazines, however, her<br />

most prominent exposure is arguably<br />

her record five covers in the annual<br />

Swimsuit Issue in Sports Illustrated.<br />

This eventually earned her the<br />

nickname, ‘The Body.’ She is also an<br />

ambassador for RED, an enterprise<br />

designed to raise money for the<br />

Global Fund to Fight AIDS,<br />

Tuberculosis, and Malaria.<br />

Gisele Bündchen<br />

Gisele Bündchen rose to fame in the<br />

‘90s, after being discovered by Elite<br />

Model Management in Rio de Janeiro.<br />

Her very first runway show was during<br />

New York Fashion Week, and she soon<br />

went on to work with Dolce and<br />

Gabbana, Valentino, and Versace. The<br />

media referred to her as ‘the return of<br />

the sexy model,’ as well as ‘the Brazilian<br />

bombshell.’ It is reported that<br />

Bündchen has been the highest-paid<br />

model in the world since 2004,<br />

however, she has used her wealth<br />

philanthropically. Not only did she<br />

donate $150,000 to the Zero Hunger<br />

Program in Brazil, but she has also<br />

campaigned for St Jude Children’s<br />

Research Hospital, and the Red Cross to<br />

aid those in Haiti after the earthquake<br />

in 2010. She is a Goodwill Ambassador<br />

for the United Nations Environment<br />

Program.<br />

Jean Shrimpton<br />

Jean Shrimpton has been described<br />

as having ‘the world’s most beautiful<br />

face,’ known for her doe eyes and<br />

pouty lips. She was particularly<br />

poignant because of her contrast<br />

with the former curvaceous look<br />

presented by models in the ‘60s,<br />

PAGE 119


Twiggy<br />

Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) was<br />

the star of the Swinging Sixties,<br />

storming into the modelling world at<br />

only 16 years of age. She is best known<br />

for her huge, dark eyes that she made<br />

even more prominent with drawn-on<br />

eyelashes, and her delicately slender<br />

frame which inspired her nickname.<br />

woman to ever walk in the Victoria’s<br />

Secret Fashion Show in 2009. She<br />

resides in New York, and is continuing<br />

to rise in global success.<br />

Jourdan Dunn<br />

In 2008, Jourdan Dunn was the<br />

first black model to star in a Prada<br />

show for over a decade. She has<br />

since spoken about the lack of<br />

diversity in the modelling industry,<br />

and the discrimination she has<br />

faced during her career. Despite<br />

these hardships, she has<br />

campaigned with the likes of Marc<br />

Jacobs and Yves St Laurent, and is<br />

considered to be one of her<br />

generation’s supermodels.<br />

Kate Moss<br />

Liu Wen<br />

Known as the first Chinese<br />

Supermodel, Liu Wen debuted her<br />

international runway career in 2008,<br />

walking for Burberry. She has since<br />

worked with huge fashion brands, such<br />

as Oscar de la Renta and Alexander<br />

Wang. She became the first East-Asian<br />

The British model that everyone<br />

loves, Kate Moss was a pioneer of<br />

the ‘90s fashion world. She was the<br />

face of ‘heroin chic,’ a style that<br />

represented the androgynous,<br />

slender, pale skin trend that rose in<br />

the early 1990s. It was a deviation<br />

from the previous supermodel<br />

look, awarding Moss worldwide<br />

attention. She has been associated<br />

with many brands over the years,<br />

and is still considered to be one of<br />

the world’s most influential people.<br />

Cara Delevingne<br />

Supermodel, actress, and singer… it<br />

seems Cara Delevingne has it all.<br />

She was signed to Storm<br />

Management in 2009, but didn’t<br />

break through properly until 2012,<br />

when she walked in all four of the<br />

big Fashion Weeks: New York,<br />

London, Paris, and Milan. She has<br />

since become the face of Rimmel,<br />

and twice won an award for ‘Model<br />

of the Year’ in the British Fashion<br />

Awards.<br />

Their reputation is undeniably<br />

befitting. To be a model is to work<br />

with dedication, and a lot of<br />

willpower. The industry is known<br />

to be controversial, at best. To rise<br />

to power, one must be determined<br />

to look past every rejection and<br />

heartless comment. It is not an easy<br />

ride. But then again, perhaps that’s<br />

why we call them ‘super’.<br />

You can read more of Ruth’s work<br />

on Instagram by following<br />

@thewriterruth.<br />

Images via WikiMedia Commons<br />

PAGE 120

Q<br />

&<br />


A<br />

What's one fashion<br />

We asked, you answered<br />

show you'd love to see<br />

I want to go back in time and see an<br />

Alexander McQueen show from the man<br />

himself!<br />

- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor<br />

in person?<br />

“I would love to see a Dior or Chanel show -<br />

but only if I could wear their clothes in the<br />

front row!”<br />

- Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant<br />


– Anna Marie, Fashion Student<br />

“YEEZY!”<br />

- Jack, Sales Manager<br />

“I would honestly love to see any LFW show<br />

now that we're able to again, I'll take anything!”<br />

– Louise Jensen, Fashion Buyer<br />

“I would love to see<br />

something at Milan<br />

Fashion Week. I'm<br />

not picky!”<br />

- Cal J, Musician<br />

“Joshua Kane!”<br />

– Jared Rehal, Operations<br />

Manager<br />

“Viktor and Rolf shows never<br />

disappoint, I love how creative they<br />

are!”<br />

– Jenny, Model<br />

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

L O N D O N R U N W A Y<br />

A N T H O L O G Y 2 0 2 0<br />


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