World Traveller February 2019

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 130 | FEBRUARY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

STAYCATIONS 

NEW HOTELS 

READER OFFERS 

ROMANTIC ESCAPES 

Beauty and 

the beach 

in timewarp 

CRETE 

FALL BELOW 

Is the Great Barrier Reef 

still all that? We take 

the plunge to find out 

Joy glide 

On a slow boat down 

the mighty Mekong 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

Are we there yet? 

All your questions answered as we 

foolproof your next family adventure

Welcome note 

People who've been bitten by the travel bug often describe 

it as a bit like falling in love. And with holidays inspiring us to 

live for the moment, be more adventurous, and discover new 

passions, it's easy to understand why. 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Editorial Director 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmediapublishing.com 

With Valentine's Day putting a big red heart 

in the middle of the month, we've rounded up 

a selection of romantic escapes (page 17) to 

whisk your loved one away on, while many of our 

featured staycations (page 66) highlight special 

experiences for couples. 

Whether you're travelling à deux, flying solo or 

have the whole family in tow, you'll find plenty of 

inspiration inside these pages. With half term here 

and summer on the horizon, we're honing in on the 

latter with our 10-page cover feature (page 24) 

guiding you towards the perfect family holiday. So 

if it's a European city break without the crowds, an 

educational journey or a magical Disney escape 

that gets the thumbs up, at least you won't be 

short of ideas. 

We've also got a heads-up on four places that 

are trending right now (page 8), while we break 

down the best way to spend a long weekend in 

Lisbon on page 60. 

1 

In Finland there are 

more saunas than there 

are cars. Indeed, Finns 

consider saunas a 

weekly necessity, p10 

2 

Known as the 

Portuguese blues, fado 

originated in the streets 

of Alfama in the 19th 

century, and you can still 

enjoy it today, p60 

3 

The Great Barrier Reef is 

the world’s largest living 

organism, visible from 

space, p44 

Content Writer 

Habiba Azab 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmediapublishing.com 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

Happy travels, 

Faye Bartle 

Win! 

Find out how you can 

win a three-night stay 

at Avani+ Samui in 

Thailand on p79 

4 

Crete was home to 

Europe’s first literate 

civilisation, the Bronze 

Age Minoans, and today 

is scattered with their 

crumbling legacy, p50 

5 

Even Michelin-stared 

maestro Alain Ducasse 

feels lost in translation 

sometimes. He tells us 

how his work feeds his 

travel experiences 

on p18 

INSPIRED BY 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

Reproduction in whole or in part 

without written permission from 

HOT Media Publishing is strictly 

prohibited. All prices mentioned 

are correct at time of press 

but may change. HOT Media 

Publishing does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

COVER IMAGE 

Getty Images 

Find us at… 

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com 

FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine 

INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller 

TWITTER @WT_Magazine 

worldtravellermagazine.com 3

Singita Ebony Lodge, South Africa 

Contents 

February 2019 

26 

SOUTH AFRICA 

regulars 

8 13 20 24 80 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

This month's go-to 

places include the 

seaside city of Helsinki 

and, closer to home, 

captivating Jordan 

GLOBETROTTER 

New openings; Alain 

Ducasse talks global 

tastes; and why you 

should make a Pointe 

of visiting Palm 

Jumeirah's new hotspot 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

Passport? check; tickets? 

check; travel insurance? 

Um... It's often 

overlooked, but is travel 

insurance essential? We 

ask the experts 

COVER FEATURE 

The planning of your 

family holiday starts 

now: we serve up 

options aplenty, from 

once-in-a-lifetime trips 

to magic moments 

SUITE DREAMS 

It's home to what is the 

most Instagrammed 

restaurant in London, 

but we have another 

very good reason to 

book The Bloomsbury 


CONTENTS 

features 

38 44 

TICKET TO GLIDE REEF ENCOUNTER 

Andrew Eames boards It's the largest living 

a slow boat down the thing on Earth and 

Mekong to visit Luang visible from space, but 

Prabang, the old royal does the Great Barrier 

capital of Laos 

Reef amaze up close? 

50 

GREEK ODYSSEY 

A family reunion in offthe-beaten-track 

Crete 

sees Dana Facaros find 

peace in a place that 

time forgot 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

50 

CRETE 

weekends 

58 60 

REASONS TO VISIT A LONG WEEKEND 

ALSERKAL AVENUE IN LISBON 

Dubai's ever-changing Join us on a whirlwind 

hub of creativity 

tour of Portugal's 

continues to thrive coastal capital 

66 

STAYCATIONS 

Already in need of a 

break? We have four 

more good reasons to 

book a weekend escape 

74 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

It's time we sent you 

packing. Choose your 

next adventure from 

our exclusive offers 

6 worldtravellermagazine.com

A NEW WATERFRONT 

DESTINATION 

AT PALM JUMEIRAH

TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, 

reveals the places that are trending this month 

Copenhagen 

A city with a lot of buzz about it right now, in Copenhagen you can experience tasty Danish street food (including 

the popular open sandwich or ‘smørrebrød’), get an up-close look at famous Danish designs, and learn about one 

of the oldest monarchies in the world. The evenings can get pretty cold at this time of year, giving you the perfect 

excuse to try out CopenHot, a waterfront sauna with great city views. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Dine at the new Noma (named the World's Best Restaurant four times over), which now has an urban farm and 

follows a three-season kitchen. 2 Head to Tivoli Gardens, where the snow falls through February, transforming it into a winter wonderland. 

3 Stay warm by ducking into Kunsthal Charlottenborg, one of Northern Europe's largest exhibition spaces for contemporary art. 



Goa 

Don’t miss the chance to experience Goa, India’s popular beach destination, during its peak season, which typically 

runs from November to February. From relaxing yoga retreats to beach shacks serving the freshest seafood, it has a 

truly laid-back vibe, yet you’ll also find some of the best of India’s nightlife. Visit Anjuna Market for some excellent 

thrift shopping and hike through the jungle to marvel at Goa’s tallest waterfall, Dudhsagar Falls. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Head to Palolem Beach to dance the night away at a silent disco. 

2 Get your flippers on and check out the best scuba diving spots, such as Grande Island. 3 Snap some pics of the 

heart-shaped lake, a natural phenomenon, at Bogmalo. 


Helsinki 

Did you know that in Finland there are more saunas than there are cars? Indeed, Finns consider saunas a weekly 

necessity and you'll find them everywhere. For excellent views 0f this pocket-sized city and a glimpse of its past, 

take a boat to the UNESCO-listed Suomenlinna – an 18th-century sea fortress and nature spot spread across six 

linked islands. What’s more, Fly Dubai now offers direct flights to Helsinki from the UAE. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Strap on your skis as there are almost 200km of well-kept trails around the capital. You can rent your kit from Paloheinä 

Recreational Center. 2 Embrace the slow food movement by dining on vegan, locally-sourced food – LOOP and Nolla are both excellent. 

3 Explore the two large national parks of Sipoonkorpi and Nuuksio, both a short bus-journey away from the city centre. 



Jordan 

Embrace the glorious weather we’re experiencing in the Middle East by staying closer to home. In Jordan, you can 

discover the impressive sights of the ancient city of Petra and the protected desert wilderness of Wadi Rum. Here, 

the Full of Stars luxury camping experience sets you up in a ‘bubble’ tent for the chance to observe the clearest desert 

night sky. With its red sands and mountainous landscape, it’s probably the closest you can get to camping on Mars. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Tuck into a traditional meal prepared by local chefs at Petra Kitchen within Wadi Musa. 2 Take a hike to the shrine 

of the prophet Aaron. Situated 1,350m above sea level, it’s the highest point in Petra. 3 Follow in the footsteps of Cleopatra and 

experience the mineral-rich mud of the Dead Sea from Amman Touristic Beach. 


JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. 

Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali. 

Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes 

from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand 

timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis. 

To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or 

email crome@anantara.com 

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com 

CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES 

• VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

FEBRUARY 

Globetrotter 

Be informed, be inspired, be there 

COLOUR ME HAPPY 

From its zero-waste food, which 

draws on hydroponic fruit and 

vegetables from the on-site farm, 

to its interiors that showcase the 

work of local artisans, SALT of 

Palmar offers you a window to 

unvarnished, vibrant Mauritius. 

The 59-key resort, on the east 

coast of the island, is the debut 

opening for the newly launched 

hotel brand SALT. The riadlike 

building, on the fringe of 

Palmar beach, has been carefully 

repurposed in a collaboration 

between local Mauritian architect 

Jean-François Adam and French 

artist Camille Walala, to bring the 

natural environment to the fore 

and allow the location's natural 

colours to shine. 

World Traveller 13

GLOBETROTTER 

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens 

NEW HOTELS 

Get there before the rest 

1 2 3 

GREECE 

Four Seasons Astir Palace 

Hotel Athens 

Now taking reservations 

for arrivals beginning 29 

March, 2019, this glamorous 

property on the Athenian 

Riviera – just 30 minutes from 

both the Acropolis and the 

airport – is your ticket to the 

perfect Greek beach holiday 

with no less than three 

private beaches, three pools, 

and eight dining spots. 

ABU DHABI 

Abu Dhabi EDITION 

You can watch the boats 

bobbing in the water at this 

recently-opened waterfront 

hotel in the downtown 

district of Al Bateen Marina. 

With guestrooms and 

serviced residences, it's 

good for longer stays, with 

three signature restaurants 

including Market by Tom 

Aikens, two swimming pools 

and a luxurious spa. 

VIETNAM 

Anantara Quy Nhon Villas 

Journey to this untouched 

destination to see the raw 

beauty of the Vietnamese 

coastline. This beachfront 

hideaway, set amid tropical 

gardens, has just 26 private 

pool villas (each serviced 

by a dedicated host), with 

castaway style dining 

experiences, a secluded 

Anantara spa and tours by 

local guides. 

Well and good 

Combine a love for 

travel with giving your 

wellbeing a boost with 

these fun spa pursuits 

on our radar… At Cheval 

Blanc Courchevel 

(pictured), you can ski 

down to the Russian 

Banya at the foot of the 

slopes for a traditional 

Northern latitudes style 

spa experience. The 

dry-heat sauna reaches 

temperatures of 90˚C, 

so you can sweat it out 

before braving a backto-basics 

toning session 

by rolling around in the 

soft snow. 

Turn the weather on 

its head by jetting to 

the Dominican Republic 

to stay at the newlyopened 

Impressive 

Resorts & Spa in Punta 

Cana where you can 

have a massage on 

the beach and relax in 

a Turkish bath. Body 

treatments and facials 

will keep you looking 

and feeling your best. 

GET TRAVEL APPY 

Did you know that the Google Translate app 

now recognises 13 new languages through 

your smartphone's camera, including support for 

Nepali, Thai, and Vietnamese? Simply snap a picture 

and the app will figure it out for you by processing 

any translatable text. 

14 World Traveller

CREATE 

SPECIAL 

MOMENTS 

WITH US. 

Standing tall in the heart of 

Dubai Marina, featuring 

incomparable panoramic views 

of the city, combine the best 

of all worlds with luxurious 

accommodation, three 

contemporary dining 

destinations and a blissful 

caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa. 

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES 

KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET 

DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE 

T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM 

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites 

@marriottharbour

GLOBETROTTER 

STRAIGHT TO 

THE HEART 

Want to whisk your sweetheart 

away? Get set to fall in love 

with these heart melting 

hideaways.... 

ISLAND 

You can’t go wrong with 

the Maldives’ mix of powder 

soft sand, sparkling sea and 

swaying coconut trees. Revel 

in the air of exclusivity at 

Velaa Private Island, which 

is designed to let its exotic 

setting shine. We rate the 

Romantic Pool Residence 

(pictured) – an ultra-private 

one-bedroom villa with a 

Jacuzzi, gazebo on the jetty 

(for dining à deux) and a 

private spa treatment room. 

It's only accessible by boat. 

Alternatively, the adultsonly, 

all-inclusive Hurawalhi 

Island Resort provides the 

perfect excuse to focus on 

the two of you. Dine at the 

world’s largest undersea 

restaurant and book a 

professional photo session for 

a lasting memory of your trip. 

Grand View Junior Suite, Palazzo Manfredi 

CITY 

If a European city break 

is more your style, jet off 

to Rome where Palazzo 

Manfredi delivers views of the 

Colosseum and Ludus Magnus 

(the gymnasium once used 

by Roman gladiators) from a 

selection of its suites, including 

its three new Grand View 

Junior Suites. This 17th century 

palace also boasts a Michelin 

stared restaurant, Aroma. 

Alternatively, brush up on 

your French in the City of 

Love with a stay at Mandarin 

Oriental Paris. Be inspired by 

sweeping views of the city – 

Eiffel Tower included – from 

the Panoramic Suite. 


GLOBETROTTER 

TRAVELS 

WITH ALAIN 

DUCASSE 

The celebrated chef oversees 

more than 30 restaurants 

around the globe, including 

his latest venue, miX by Alain 

Ducasse, in Dubai. He shares 

how his work feeds his travel 

experiences and vice versa 

Travelling nourishes me both 

spiritually and creatively, and allows 

me to gain a better understanding of 

different cuisines. And while it would 

not be my philosophy to try to move 

towards something like sushi and 

sashimi, as we could never achieve 

exactly what is served in Japan, I 

appreciate the aesthetical aspect and 

elegant presentation of this type of 

food, and elements could be integrated 

in how we perceive a dish. 

The first time I went 

to Japan I didn't 

understand the place. 

Everything puzzled 

me and I was lost in 

translation. At the 

same time, I grew 

fascinated with 

the country, which 

is why I keep on 

going back. 

We have an 

outpost of Rech in 

Hong Kong so I have 

spent quite a bit of time 

there too. The place has a great 

dynamic – especially in terms of its food 

scene – and it’s a place that I would like 

to explore more. Around 15 years ago, 

there were only five to 10 well-known 

chefs there, whereas now there are 

dozens of internationally renowned 

chefs to discover. 

Lima is also a very interesting place 

to me, as local chefs are rediscovering 

the richness of ingredients sourced 

from the land and sea, which so far has 

been underexploited. 

I grew up on a farm in the Landes 

region in southwestern France. It’s 

not far from wild mountains and the 

Atlantic Ocean, so it has a wealth of 

produce. Local people came to 

us to buy everything from 

vegetables to poultry, 

geese, duck and 

rabbit, and we 

created meals 

for the local 

community. 

I’ve been 

interested in the 

flavours of the 

Middle East for a 

long time and this 

has definitely been 

an influence in terms 

of the food you will taste 

at miX in Dubai. Indeed, it is a 

major food trend in general. 

miX by Alain Ducasse at Emerald Palace 

Kempinski Dubai is the chef’s first 

restaurant in the UAE and the largest in 

his restaurant group. kempinski.com 

ON OUR 

RADAR 

Leading a vegan lifestyle 

just got even easier thanks 

to Hilton Bankside’s Vegan 

Suite, which invites guests 

to veg out in its Vegan 

Society approved 

room, which is 

almost entirely 

plant-based, from 

the furniture to 

the bedding and, of 

course, the snacks. 

If you're a fan of Le Gray 

in Beirut, you'll be pleased 

to know that Campbell Gray 

Hotels has opened its first 

property in the GCC, The 

Merchant House, 

Manama, Bahrain. 

Located alongside 

the vibrant Bab 

el-Bahrain Souk, 

it's ideally placed 

Belmond Le Manoir aux 

Quat’Saisons 

for you to immerse 

yourself in local 

Bahraini life, and to get a real 

feel for the culture. 

Paying homage to past 

patron and pop icon 

David Bowie, the 

new Ziggy's Bar at 

Hotel Café Royal 

in London, serves 

drinks inspired by 

his life and music 

against a backdrop 

of curated photography. 

Bowie held the retirement party 

for his alter ego Ziggy Stardust 

at Café Royal in the 1970s. 

As part of the Kingdom’s 

2030 Vision, Saudi Arabia 

has launched a new 

west coast resort 

destination, The 

Red Sea Project, 

which will team 

natural islands 

and coastline with 

dormant volcanos, 

a nature reserve and 

nearby ancient ruins. 


GLOBETROTTER 

FOODIE HOTSPOT 

A MEAL WITH A VIEW 

Dubai's latest dining destination, The Pointe on Palm Jumeirah, beckons hungry 

holidaymakers with its cool line-up of eateries and stunning view of Atlantis, The Palm 

FITZROY 

This European-inspired bistro touts an 

à la carte menu featuring the likes of 

steak tartare, bouillabaisse, grilled 

entrecôte and confit duck 

leg. It's good for lunch or 

dinner, but the venue 

really comes into its 

own at dusk. 

Why we rate it: The 

outdoor terrace is 

a romantic setting, 

with its flame 

heaters creating 

a cosy ambience 

and tables directly 

overlooking the water. 

This image: The view from 

Chicago Meatpackers 

Inset: Chicken roulade 

at Fitzroy 

SEAFOOD KITCHEN 

Serving up beautifully presented 

food and Balearic Island vibes, this 

market-style concept treats seafood 

fans to delicate dishes such as snapper 

ceviche, as well as crowd-pleasing 

platters of clams, mussels, soft-shell 

crab, prawns and chargrilled, locallysourced 

fish. 

Why we rate it: Downstairs is familyfriendly 

while upstairs has a more 

glamorous, lounge style ambience, with 

ladies’ nights taking place on Thursdays. 

ENA 

Think you know authentic Greek food? 

We recommend you sit down to a meal 

at Ena before you answer that question. 

It's the brainchild of owner Lena P, 

Maniatis, whose vision for back to 

basics Greek food is brought to life by 

chef Alexandros Pavlopoulos Sperxos – 

all with a modern twist. 

Why we rate it: Most of the ingredients 

are sourced from small farms in Greece 

– the feta from Kalavrita features in a 

number of must-try dishes. 

AMIRA'S DELI 

This family-friendly deli brings 

European café culture to life, with a 

delicious selection of dishes to suit 

all ages. 

Why we rate it: The portions are large 

and each dish has an interesting stamp, 

like the chicken waffle cones stuffed 

with cheesy chicken popcorn. 

PALAPA 

This Mexican eatery is a party for the 

taste buds. Try the classic ceviche 

followed by the tacos short ribs and 

nachos festin marino (nachos with 

prawns, squid, mussels, guacamole and 

sea sauce). 

Why we rate it: The combination of the 

vibrant food, décor and entertainment 

makes eating here far from boring. 

This image: Sushi crêpe 

at Amira's Deli 


KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Get to grips with travel insurance 

Peace of mind is worth its weight in gold. Claire Ryan, head of travel and personal insurance 

at AIG UAE and AIG MEA Limited, answers common questions about travel insurance 

What are the main benefits 

I should expect from a travel 

insurance policy? 

Depending on the level of 

coverage you choose, it may 

offer you protection in case of 

travel inconvenience, such as trip 

cancellation, flight delay or lost 

luggage. More importantly, you may 

choose a plan covering emergency 

medical expenses, which can be very 

expensive in most situations. 

Taking out travel insurance is 

like getting international health 

insurance too, right? 

Travel insurance covers you against 

emergency medical expenses, 

which means surgical and hospital 

treatment if you become ill or injured 

during your trip. However, medical 

treatment required due to a preexisting 

medical condition that you 

knew about at the time of taking out 

your insurance would, in most cases, 

not be covered. 

If I buy my holiday on my 

credit card, I’m offered some 

protection. Do I need an extra 

policy on top? 

Credit card insurance coverage 

is generally limited, and all travel 

bookings must be completely 

purchased using the respective card. 

You must check your policy schedule 

from the issuing bank to understand 

if all your needs are covered. In most 

cases, the limits are quite low so, for 

example, travelling to the US where 

medical costs are very expensive 

would most likely require you to 

purchase a more comprehensive 

travel insurance plan. 

How can I ensure the 

cancellation policy covers all? 

The travel insurance cancellation 

policy will not cover you for all reasons. 

It will cover you for the travel and 

accommodation costs, transfers, 

excursions and, in some cases, even the 

visa costs, but only if the cancellation 

is unavoidable and due to a set list of 

reasons, such as an illness that prevents 

you from travelling, or the death of a 

relative. What it won't cover you for, in 

most cases, is you choosing not to travel. 

I need coverage for my entire 

family, from our baby to our 

elderly grandparents who are 

joining us on our trip. Can I cover 

everyone with one policy? 

The family travel insurance policy 

usually covers husband, wife and 

children. However, you may opt for a 

group travel insurance where you can 

add as many additional persons as 

required, including extended family and 

friends. You need to also check the age 

limitations, as in some travel insurance 

policies, the elderly have different rates 

or benefit limitations. 

I travel a lot. Is it worth getting a 

multi-trip policy even if I’m yet to 

book all my trips for the year? 

Absolutely. An annual multi-trip 

insurance will work out more cost 

effective if you’re a frequent traveller. 

Additionally, people tend to book their 

travel insurance after they’ve bought 

their flights and accommodation. 

But if you have a yearly policy, for 

example, the trip cancellation benefit is 

on-going and you are covered from the 

moment you book even the first sector 

of your flight. 

dnata Travel partners with AIG to 

provide travel insurance. To find out 

more, email holidays@dnatatravel.com 


Discover a Revolutionary Beauty Line! 

Renew for the journey ahead. 

We have something new and exciting for you. 

Behold the mind-blowing, anti-aging and hydrating facial treatments by an innovative 

Korean product line, which uses Diamonds. Yes, you read that right! Diamonds are 

known for their ability to deliver ingredients to the deepest layers of your skin. 

Want to know the best part? You get to go home with your own box of exquisite 

products after each treatment. 

For more information or to make a booking please call +971 4 414 6754. 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE 

mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

STAY DIFFERENT WITH JUMEIRAH 

5 reasons families 

will love Jumeirah 

Mina A’Salam 

General manager Azar Saliba 

shines a light on the familyfriendly 

allure of this established 

hotel at the heart of Madinat 

Jumeirah in Dubai 

There’s room for everyone 

1 We have 128 sets of interconnecting rooms 

at the hotel, giving families plenty of space 

to spread out in and stay connected. All of 

our rooms and suites can fit up to two adults 

and two children, but if your kids are aged 

12 or over then we recommend you opt for 

interconnecting rooms so you all get a great 

night’s sleep. 

You’ll never be bored 

2 With more than 30 rides and slides to 

thrill you, from the relaxing lazy river to 

the terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah (which 

propels you to speeds of 80 km/h), Wild Wadi 

Waterpark* has enough to keep you amused 

for hours on end – and all guests staying at 

Jumeirah Mina A’Salam receive complimentary 

access for the duration of their stay. It’s a 

fantastic benefit of staying with us. 

When you’re done splashing around, you 

can explore our beautiful private beach and 

take part in the many watersports available, 

from kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding. 

In addition, Sinbad’s Kids Club is a dream 

world for children with a climbing wall, play 

areas and pools, as well as activities such as 

face painting and crafts. It’s open daily from 

8am-8pm. 

Dining here is fun 

3 In Arabic, Madinat means city – and 

staying here is like being in a city within 

a city. In this respect we are very lucky as 

guests have access to over 40 different 

restaurants, bars and cafés, serving 

everything from Greek and Chinese to 

Mexican. As well as being able to choose 

from all different types of cuisines, parents 

can relax in the knowledge that there’s 

a dedicated children’s menu available at 

Royal Heart Suite Reef, master in the Great bedroom Barrier Reef 


WORLD TRAVELLER X JUMEIRAH 

Wild Wadi Waterpark 

*Opening 8 February. 

all venues throughout the resort. Plus, if 

your child has a food allergy or sensitivity, 

having around 150 chefs working here 

gives the luxury of being able to make you 

anything you want. If they need a little extra 

entertainment, iPads and colouring books 

are available at all our dining spots. 

Your days doesn't have to end once 

the little ones are in bed. Our in-house 

babysitting service (bookable upon 

request) means you can head out for a 

romantic supper while your children 

are well looked after by our trained 

childcare professionals. 

You don’t have to sweat 

4 the small stuff 

We know that travelling with small children 

can be a challenge and parents are often 

worried about forgetting an essential item, 

such as the bottle steriliser, or whether 

they’ve packed enough diapers. It’s extremely 

common to be caught short on holiday, but 

we can get hold of pretty much anything 

you need, from putting a steriliser in the 

room, to delivering a fresh supply of nappies, 

and whipping up some puréed fruits and 

vegetables in the kitchen for younger babies 

who are weaning. 

The view from the pool is hard to beat 

There's lots for little travellers 

5 to discover 

Staying with us can be educational, too. With 

its Arabian-style architecture, the resort is 

sure to spark your child's imagination. You 

can immerse them in old world Arabia with 

a trip to Souk Madinat Jumeirah where they 

can browse the stands, barrows and stalls 

offering a mix of mementoes and choose a 

keepsake to take home. Plus, you can fuel a 

budding passion for the arts by catching a 

show at Madinat Theatre. 

To find out more, call +971 4 366 8888 

or visit jumeirah.com 

MUST-HAVE EXPERIENCES 

Don’t miss these memory 

makers at Mina A'Salam… 

Sit down to brunch. Our 

Friday brunch provides 

three-and-a-half hours 

of delicious food and top 

entertainment at Hanaaya 

and Tortuga. Those under 12 

years old go free. 

Feed the turtles. The turtle 

lagoon at neighbouring 

Jumeirah Al Naseem is 

where sick and injured sea 

turtles are nursed back to 

health. Learn more about it 

at the feeding sessions on 

Wednesdays at 11am. 

Ride an abra. See the resort 

from the water by taking 

an abra tour of the Madinat 

Jumeirah waterways. 

Tune ceviche, Tortuga 


The Family 

Holiday 

Half term's here and (whisper it quietly) 

summer's on the horizon. If you've yet to book your 

next trip, we’re here to help. So whether you seek the 

adventure of a lifetime or somewhere simply perfect 

for a staycation, we have all the answers 


FAMILY TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 



My family and I love wildlife and an African safari has always been 

on my bucket list. However, I’ve always thought of it as an adult-only 

adventure. Are there any safari lodges that cater to young kids? 

Lewa House, Kenya 

Lewa House is a family home, and 

you’ll feel that by staying in one of 

its beautiful thatched-roof family 

cottages. There’s also plenty to 

occupy aside from game drives, like 

freshwater crab hunts and visits to a 

maasai village. 

Samara Private Game Reserve, 

South Africa 

Children of all ages are warmly 

welcomed here and are exceptionally 

well-catered to. Tailored for under 12s, 

the Samara Kids' Programme features 

'outdoor classroom' bush excursions, 

indigenous rock painting and storytelling 

by the fire. 

Singita Ebony Lodge, 

South Africa 

Singita Ebony Lodge is a jawdroppingly 

beautiful colonial style 

lodge that leaves no stone unturned 

when it comes to spoiling families. 

Custom activities for young guests 

include astronomy, animal tracking 

and mountain biking, while Singita’s 

socially responsible ethos will keep 

them grounded with a visit to the 

Justicia community village. 

My kids are pre-school age. Which European cities are best 

enjoyed out of school holidays to avoid the crowds? 

1 

VENICE 

Summer in Venice can be downright 

unpleasant but the first half of May 

has fewer tourists and less traffic on the 

canals. After a wallet-emptying gondola 

ride, climb to the balcony of St Mark's 

Basilica, then let ’em loose to chase 

pigeons in the piazza below. 

2DUBROVNIK 

Cruise ships descend on Dubrovnik 

in peak season, which peters off 

around the end of September. Beat 

the crowds by checking the cruise ship 

arrival schedule (portdubrovnik.hr) and 

explore the walled city by entering via 

the Ulica Svetog Dominika gate. 

3 

BARCELONA 

February is chilly, but the Santa 

Eulàlia festival in Barcelona is 

terrific for mini travellers, with street 

parades featuring fantasy characters 

like gegants (the giants), and toddlerfriendly 

fun aplenty, from human-tower 

building through to puppetry. 


Opposite: Singita 

Ebony Lodge 

This page: Rome's 

Colosseum 

My kids are in secondary school and I’d like to 

take them somewhere that proves educational. 

Which destinations do you suggest? 

Snowmobiling, glacier hiking, 

volcanoes – Iceland has all 

the big-ticket adventures 

for outdoorsy teens and 

they’ll learn a thing or two 

about the might of Mother 

Nature, in particular, Iceland’s 

geothermal energy (fun fact: 

it actually powers the city 

of Reykjavik). There’s the 

monumental landscapes, 

steaming geysers and 

thundering waterfalls of the 

Golden Circle, and Krísuvík’s 

famous Blue Lagoon, but 

elsewhere, Hveragerði’s 

geothermal park is a hoot. 

They’ll never forget bathing in 

natural outdoor hot springs. 

Pizza and gelato aside, 

Italy overflows with culture, 

especially in Rome, but 

immersing the kids in history 

doesn’t have to be dull. 

Brandishing swords and 

shields, and donning helmets 

and armour, the two-hour 

Roman Gladiator School 

sessions run by Gruppo 

Storico Romano are wildly 

fun (even for the grumpiest of 

teens) and include a guided 

tour of the Colosseum arena 

and Museum of Gladiators. 

Mexico is another enriching 

destination to expand young 

minds. Touch down in Mexico 

City to take in museums, eat 

tostadas and watch a Lucha 

Libre wrestling match. On 

your way to the Caribbean 

shores of the Yucatan 

Peninsula, stop at Palenque. 

Staying in the jungle and 

exploring ancient Mayan 

temples by day, listening to 

howler monkeys call from the 

treetops at night – you’ll need 

to bribe your kids to leave. 



We always head to our home country for the 

summer holidays but this year we want a big 

family adventure. What do you recommend? 

Opposite: Walt 

Disney World Resort 

This page, from top: 

Joshua Tree National Park, 

California; Wild Wadi 

Waterpark 

WHY NOT... HIT THE ROAD 

ACROSS CALIFORNIA 

Pacific Coast Highway 1 is the stuff 

of legend for a reason. With rugged 

beaches, frolicking sea lions, epic 

views and equally epic sights (like 

the iconic Bixby Bridge), driving the 

Pacific coastline – the kids blasting 

the stereo and singing at the top of 

their lungs – will be a road-trip your 

kids will talk about for years to come, 

particularly if you've driven it in a 

classic Airstream. 

WHY NOT.. GO ISLAND HOPPING IN 

FANTASTIC FIJI 

With 330 islands, crazy-clear water and 

unspoilt white-sand beaches, not to 

mention wonderful resorts with awardwinning 

kids’ clubs, Fiji is outstanding 

for island-hopping and there’s an added 

bonus: Fijians are among the friendliest 

people on earth. In between swimming 

and gallivanting on beaches searching 

for starfish, your babes will become 

best friends with local kids before you 

have the chance to say “Bula”. 

WHY NOT... TAKE TO THE HIGH 

SEAS FOR A CRUISE 

Kids will go mad for the floating 

playgrounds operated by Royal 

Caribbean, Carnival and Disney, with 

ginormous slides, ice skating rinks 

and fun-filled youth programmes 

aplenty, but for something more 

intrepid, try a Lindblad Expedition. 

In partnership with National 

Geographic, these expedition-style 

voyages venture to wild destinations 

like the Galápagos islands or Alaska, 

with kids’ programmes overseen by 

certified educators and naturalists. 

I fancy a family staycation for half term but want a room that 

also offers privacy for my husband and I. Where should I book? 

Recently reopened after a substantial 

refurbishment, Jumeirah Beach Hotel's 

polished rooms can accommodate two 

adults and two children aged under 

12 in one king size and one twin bed 

respectively. But if it's privacy you seek 

then each of the 'Ocean' rooms can 

be booked with an interconnecting 

room next door. With complimentary 

access to Wild Wadi for the duration 

of your stay thrown in, chances are you 

won't be seeing much of your children, 

regardless. At JW Marriott Marquis 

Hotel Dubai – the world's tallest fivestar 

hotel, an accolade your kids will 

love – two Deluxe rooms can be booked 

to interconnect, or one attached to a 

more spacious suite. Staying next to 

Ski Dubai is also likely to rack up the 

brownie points, and Kempinski Hotel 

Mall of the Emirates offers two Deluxe 

room types that can interconnect. 



THE MAGIC MOMENT 

Meeting Mickey and Co at 

Walt Disney World Resort 

With four theme parks and two water parks, the wishlist 

topping Walt Disney World Resort is purpose built 

for enrapturing children. No matter their age, the 

wonderful world of Disney has undoubtedly waved 

its magical wand over your kids at some point, 

and there's plenty of reasons to plan a trip this 

year – not least for the hotly anticipated late 2019 

opening of Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge. Meanwhile, 

the outstanding Four Seasons Resort Orlando 

at Walt Disney World Resort is ready to roll 

out its magic carpet for guests from May 

through September. As part 

of special packages timed 

to coincide with the cinema 

release of the live-action 

Aladdin, the resort will also 

offer Arabia-inspired drinks, 

dishes and spa treatments. 

Better still, its spectacular 

Royal Suite can be expanded 

to fit nine bedrooms, so no 

family member misses out. 



My kids have (very) 

healthy appetites and 

I’m worried about 

running up a huge hotel 

bill. Where are some allinclusive 

options? 

Top billing here would have to go to 

the wonderful Furaveri Island Resort 

& Spa in the Maldives. Food and drink 

prices in the Maldives can test any 

budget, which is what makes Furaveri's 

all-inclusive option so attractive if you're 

travelling here with kids. All meals and 

non-alcoholic drinks (as well as selected 

alcoholic) are offered, with the choice of 

cuisines equally generous – everything 

from Italian through to Thai. A trip to 

Dubai's two-hotel JA The Resort may 

take you no time at all, but its secluded 

spot by the sea makes it feel every bit 

like a mini holiday. Book a minimum 

three-night stay and you can go allinclusive, 

which covers the day's three 

main meals as well as snacks and drinks 

(alcoholic and non-alcoholic). What's 

more, kids aged under 12 are free. 

I like the idea of our family 

travelling by train (it sounds 

less stressful than a road 

trip). What are some of the 

best railway journeys? 

If your kids are spellbound by all things Harry 

Potter, you'll earn a bucket-load of brownie 

points by boarding The Jacobite, a steam 

train which operates across Scotland's scenic 

Highlands. That's because the Jacobite is best 

known as the Hogwarts Express, the role it 

played in the film series. 

An adventure of a different kind can be 

had onboard the day-train Belmond Hiram 

Bingham, which snakes its way up Peru's 

Machu Picchu. Catering well to families, there's 

live music in the observation car and the threecourse 

menu you'll enjoy can be adapted to 

please any fussy little eater. Once at Machu 

Picchu, a private guide will whisk you to 

the best spots of the Citadel for a truly 

memorable experience. 


FAMILY TRAVEL Opposite, EXPERIENCES 

from top to 

bottom: Furaveri Island 

Resort & Spa; eyes on 

the countryside during a 

train journey 

This page: Liwa Oasis 


Seeing natural wonders 

It’s not just parents who need a break. Kids too, 

can get overloaded with the excessive 'noise' from 

modern life, whether it’s pressure from exams 

or overexposure to technology, which is why 

whisking them away to nature is always a good 

idea. But why not take it even further, and take 

them to see one of the world’s big-ticket natural 

wonders? Whether it’s watching the sun rise over 

enormous dunes in the Liwa Oasis, listening to 

their voices echo across the Grand Canyon, or 

feeling the spray from Niagara Falls on their skin, 

witnessing such tremendous natural beauty up 

close will thrill them in a way an iPad never will. 



As a family I’d like to 

make our travels more 

meaningful. In what 

ways can we give back 

on our travels? 

Eat at local restaurants 

Dining at a local eatery is a win-win: it 

helps to support community business 

and it gives children an insight into a 

destination’s culture and traditions. They 

won’t get a plastic toy with their meal, 

but they probably won’t ever forget that 

time they ate rice with their hands! 

Purchase souvenirs from artists at 

local markets 

Market hauls may never replace the 

Lego, but buying that handmade 

ukulele, the beaded necklace threaded 

by a local tribeswoman, or the animal 

shaped from discarded flip-flops found 

on the beach not only helps support 

artisans whose livelihoods depend on 

tourism, it will create a lasting memory 

of the trip to take home. 

Hire a local tour guide 

Whether it’s tracking down the best 

gelateria or the nearest bathroom, a 

guide’s expertise and knowledge can 

prove invaluable. The job supports them 

financially, though many are just as 

interested in learning about your family 

and your culture – so say yes if they 

invite you over to meet their family. 

My kids like nothing more than a hotel kids’ club, but which ones 

go above and beyond to really engage them? 

Famous for golf it may be, but 

Scotland's Gleneagles is swiftly making 

a name for itself as an idyllic family 

retreat. Dating to 1924, this historic hotel 

is forward thinking when it comes to 

planning kids' activities. Working on 

the premise that 'whatever an adult can 

do, a child can do too', kids can drive 

a mini Land Rover, train a gundog, try 

their hand at fishing and falconry or 

even own a pony for a day (just hope 

that all that mucking out will put them 

off making the deal permanent). The 

great outdoors also provides a fitting 

playground at Constance Ephelia in 

Seychelles, where budding Tarzans can 

swing from tree to tree on a zip line. 

Culinary skills can also be sharpened 

through cooking classes, alongside a 

programme of other fun workshops. 

That's also very much the case at 

LUX* Belle Mare in Mauritius, home 

to an outdoor culinary school, tennis 

coaching, adventure trips around the 

island and local language and dance 

classes. In the unlikely event of having 

time to fill, the resort's unique cakedecorating 

bar summons sticky fingers. 

Words by Michelle Wranik-Hicks 


Opposite, from top to 

bottom: shopping for 

souvenirs at a local market; 

flying on the zip-line at 

Constance Ephelia 

This page: Kakslauttanen 

Arctic Resort 


Stepping into snow in Lapland 

The magical Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, Finland (near the Arctic Circle), 

is like stepping into the pages of a storybook. Besides meeting the big man 

himself, your wide-eyed kids can attend elf school or visit the post office where 

elves sift through a reported half a million letters sent to Santa each year. If 

you’re lucky, your family might even get the chance to witness the spectacular 

light show (perhaps through the roof of a glass igloo), the Aurora Borealis, the 

natural phenomenon colouring the sky approximately 200 nights a year. Add 

to that reindeer sleigh rides, a snowmobiling adventure, and meeting adorable 

Siberian huskies, and you can safely notch it up as one of those extraordinary 

once-in-a-lifetime experiences they’ll probably tell their grandkids about one day. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT 

Follow your heart 

Whether you want to make a grand gesture or keep 

things low key, there are plenty of ways to ramp up 

the romance at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort 

Sample the outback 

inspired menu at Bushman’s 

The most romantic time of the year, 

Valentine’s Day (on 14 February) provides all 

the motivation you need to treat the object 

of your affection to something extra special. And 

if you’re in the mood to pull out all the stops, how 

does a sun-drenched holiday sound? Crafted by 

Anantara’s biggest softies, this vacation package 

will send you off on a storybook style adventure, 

starting with a two-night stay in a Pool Beach 

Villa, with 100 red roses delivered to your door and 

an evening onboard a private luxury yacht with a 

chef, sommelier and waiter on hand to serve you 

a five-course dinner of caviar, sushi and seafood 

paired with your favourite drink. Each morning 

you’ll wake up to a bubbly breakfast and, on the 

last day, you’ll be whisked away to the airport in 

a limo to hop on an Emirates flight headed to the 

Indian Ocean where you’ll spend a further two 

nights at Anantara Kihavah Maldives in a Beach 

Pool Villa soaking up the rays. 


Be pampered in the hammam 

If you prefer to dial it down a little, 

foodies will find all they need to make 

the heart sing at Anantara The Palm 

Dubai Resort’s restaurants – each of 

which is putting on a special spread. 

For those craving privacy, the best 

option is dining under the stars at a 

table on the beach overlooking Palm 

Jumeirah. The intimate Flavours of the 

Ocean by Dining by Design experience 

includes a five-course menu and is 

limited to just eight couples. 

If Asian food floats your love 

boat head to Mekong, which will be 

transformed into a flower-filled venue 

complete with mood lighting. Or keep it 

casual at Bushman’s where you can tuck 

into a three-course outback inspired 

menu of authentic Australian fare on 

the outdoor billabong terrace. 

If you’re loved one deserves some 

expert pampering, Anantara Spa is 

offering couples’ journeys that invite 

you to unwind with a treatment by the 

sea, sit down to lunch at The Beach 

House and spend some quality time 

together thanks to the all-day pass to 

the resort’s sparkling pools and beach. 

Unwind in a Pool Beach Villa 

Dip a toe in the resort's sparkling pools 

Kick-start the 

detox process in 

the hammam 

To find out more, call +971 4 567 8999 

or visit anantara.com 

Kick-start the detox 

process in the hammam 


Discover the perfect blend of convenience, 

stylish comfort for pleasure and business. 

א אא אא אא 

א אאא א 

Email: info@2seasonshotels.com | Web: www.2seasonshotels.com 

Tel: +971 4 399 6666 | Fax: +971 4 381 8067 | P.O.Box: 502222, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai Internet City, UAE 

א א 

Unlimited Comfort

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

LAOS p38 

GREAT BARRIER REEF p44 

CRETE p50 

Postcards 

Stories from journeys 

far and wide 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

These pages: A fisherman 

sets his traditional net 

Luang Prabang, the old 

royal capital of Laos, is 

still easier to reach by 

water than road. On 

a slow boat down the 

gilded Mekong, Andrew 

Eames finds the 

Southeast Asia of old 


LAOS 


LAOS 

here was nothing to 

set Boat Can Sway 

apart when I first 

glimpsed her that 

morning, among the 

river vessels jammed 

in herringbone 

formation against the 

bank at Huay Xai on 

the Lao-Thai border. 

She was slender, just 

35 metres long, and 

locally crafted, like 

the cluster around her, with rosewood 

planking above water, steel hull below. 

Just another boat on the mighty Mekong, 

waiting to do business. The unique 

appeal would be apparent once we were 

on board, for our two-day voyage to 

Luang Prabang: we had not one but three 

captains, an embarrassment of comfy 

chairs for the passenger count (18) and 

the promise of a cosy halfway house: a 

sedate river-view hotel for the night. (Our 

boat was too bijou-boutique for cabins.) 

We also had a chef, it became clear, 

as we stole back from our mooring 

and the smell of lunch wafted by. A 

fishy appetiser — tender white tilapia, 

steamed with dill — emerged from the 

galley as we nosed out into the channel. 

By the time I’d turned my attention to 

the beef curry, lightly fragranced with 

lime leaves, the sour taste of officialdom 

I’d experienced early that morning was 

disappearing as fast as the morning 

thrum of Huay Xai town. But it had 

sure been an inauspicious start... 

The Mekong is the Amazon of 

Southeast Asia, passing through six 

countries en route to the sea, and the 

stretch we were following forms part 

of Laos’s international border — I’d 

had to cross east from Thailand that 

morning to catch the boat. Despite its 

name, there had been nothing remotely 

amiable about the Friendship Bridge: 

the echoingly empty Lao immigration 

counters were inch-deep in a confetti of 

dead mayflies. Changing money at the 

bank, I got $100 worth of Lao kip, yet 

my paperwork stated I’d only changed 

$90. When I pointed this out, the teller 

just shrugged. Those $10 were his now. 

Still, here I was, out on the sunlit 

water, blending into the forgotten 

world of one of Asia’s greatest rivers. 

The day was sultry, but the boat’s 

This page, clockwise 

from above: A tuk 

tuk speeds through 

the streets of Luang 

Prabang; woman 

dressed in traditional 

costume; coconut 

pancakes on street stall 

Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 


movement brought a fresh breeze rifling 

through the saloon. It was wonderful 

being here: a plate of pineapple and 

lychees appeared before me. 

Between here and now and Luang 

Prabang were two days of delicious 

grazing as a tapestry of forest, fishing 

villages and limestone mountains 

unravelled slowly either side. 

I had long dreamt of making this trip. 

More than once, on previous holidays 

in Thailand, I’d reached the banks of 

the Mekong. But I had never crossed it. 

Cruising has colonised its lower reaches, 

hundreds of kilometres downriver from 

Huay Xai, where it becomes sufficiently 

wide for big, all-inclusive boats. But 

they held little appeal for me: after years 

seeing Thai sophistication, I wanted the 

Southeast Asia I’d found so enthralling 

in my backpacker days. Laos, I knew, 

was a country still immersed in the old 

ways. If I could tap into its river life, 

perhaps I’d recapture fond memories 

of Southeast Asia as it used to be. 

This upper stretch of the Mekong is 

still wild and unspoilt — too treacherous 

for big cruisers. People will tell you 

it is the best way to reach the former 

royal capital of Laos, one of Asia’s most 

enchanting backwaters. In fact, it is 

one of the very few places in the world 

more accessible by water than by road. 

There could be no more authentic 

way to arrive than aboard a typical 

river boat, the very reason it exists. 

On the Boat Can Sway, to be precise. 

That wasn’t, I confess, the boat’s real 

name. A notice up by the captain’s perch 

in the bows warned that, because of 

the rapids, the ‘boat can sway’, but the 

first words were partially obscured. 

Whatever, it sounded far sassier than 

Pakou III, and more descriptive. 

The water levels at this early stage in 

the Mekong’s journey are as volatile as a 

teenager. In the rainy season the silt-rich 

floods rise to fertilise a broad hopscotch 

of village vegetable patches, but then the 

river skinnies down and rocks rear from 

the water like scales on a dragon’s back. 

That afternoon, standing on the front 

deck, we could see this was going to be 

an exhilarating ride. The teenage dragon 

bared its teeth and started to seethe and 

‘ 

A TAPESTRY OF 

FOREST, FISHING 

VILLAGES AND 

MOUNTAINS 

UNRAVELLED 

EITHER SIDE 

’ 

writhe. The danger was less the rocks 

we could see, more those concealed just 

below the surface. At times it was like 

white-water rafting, and you knew things 

were tricky when the captain’s brow 

furrowed, the boat quivered, and he asked 

everyone on the front deck to sit down. 

We weren’t alone in riding the rapids. 

Every now and then a highly painted 

apparition, barely more than a surfboard, 

came screeching by, noisy as a race 

circuit, half a dozen passengers sitting 

erect before a truck engine mounted 

on the stern. They could get you to 

Luang Prabang in six hours, explained 

Sanh, our onboard guide. Attempt 

that journey by road, and it would 

take you 13. I settled back in Boat Can 

Sway, more contented than ever. 

In quieter moments we saw fishermen, 

out on the water in slender canoes, 

working and nets in the backwater 

eddies of what is officially the largest 

freshwater fishery in the world. Their 

dream, said Sanh, was of catching a 

Mekong catfish, at up to 300kg the largest 

freshwater fish in existence, but rare. 

How a fisherman could expect to land 

something six times his bodyweight in a 

dugout made for one, he never explained. 

For us passengers, that first day passed 

in a blur of eating, snoozing, waving at 

the fishermen and village children, and 

getting to know each other. It was a sort 

of river-borne house party and I found 

myself swapping stories with an English 

couple, Simon and Angela, who’d come 

all the way to Laos overland. It was an 

adventure that had included a train 

trip through Russia, where Angela 

had slipped on ice and broken her 

arm. Together, we chatted with a posh 

British banker, on board with his Thai 

wife and their striking children. She 

lived in Bangkok, while he remained in 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 


LAOS 

London, which sounded intriguing, 

although I didn’t ask further. Fleeting 

insights into other people’s lives are 

most fascinating when you accept 

you’ll never know the full story. 

In turn, we passengers stirred interest 

among the people of the riverbanks. 

In its more indolent sections the flow 

wound past sandy embankments 

and bays, where swimming children 

stopped to stare and wave. Mooring at 

a beach, we spent an hour with a boy 

desperate to show us how he trapped 

crickets for the family’s dinner using 

a long bamboo pole. I don’t think 

we’d have met him if we’d been on a 

five-star luxury river cruise, or a bus. 

He even led us up the sandy 

embankment to his hill-tribe village, 

where every house was perched on 

stilts above spare timbers stacked 

underneath for when the family 

needed to up sticks and relocate to 

better land. Hydropower dams are 

under construction along the Mekong, 

and one is planned downriver of 

that boy’s village, at a settlement 

called Pak Beng, where we broke our 

journey at the end of that first day. 

The Luang Say lodge was a mahoganyrich 

construction with a fabulous 

view down over rushes whirring with 

cicadas to the Mekong sliding by. It 

was elegant, open to the evening airs 

and the sounds of gibbons calling. 

Simple in design, it was also vulnerable, 

as we discovered after dark, when 

a thunderstorm menacing the hills 

decided to pounce, driving billowing 

clouds of rain through the restaurant. 

Next day dawned bright and clear, 

the overnight storm having cleared 

the haze created by the slash-and-burn 

practice that dominates agriculture 

here. Some 70% of the Lao landscape 

is forest and mountains, and in 

the sharp light the burnt hillsides 

bristled like an elephant’s hide, 

their receding shoulders purpled 

as if they’d been in a fight, some 

bruises still livid with flame. 

After a breakfast of fried eggs and 

mango sticky rice, the baritone of 

Boat Can Sway’s engine summoned us 

back to the water’s edge. This time the 

river seemed more gentle, its teenage 

convulsions less frequent, and the 

captain relaxed sufficiently to allow the 

Thai/English couple’s children to take 

turns with the wheel. Much later that 

day, as the sun was burnishing the river 

bronze, we finally sighted Luang Prabang, 

raised high on a finger-like peninsula 

between the Mekong and its tributary 

the Nam Khan. I stood transfixed by the 

curved roofs of its many temples peeking 

above the riverside acacias. Boat Can 

Sway performed a final pirouette, fond 

farewells were said, and we dispersed 

into the next stage of our lives. 

After tranquil time on a boat it felt 

strange to be back among thronging 

humankind; strange, too, to be decanted 

into a place that felt so much like a 

spiritual remnant of old Southeast 

Asia, suspended in time. But I couldn’t 

have been happier. It reminded me 

of Thailand’s popular northern city, 

Chiang Mai, when I first arrived 

there some 40 years ago. Then, it was 

a place of novice monks and young 

travellers wide-eyed with wonder. 

Laid out by French planners in the 

late 19th century, when Laos was part 

of French Indochina, Luang Prabang 

displayed a fusion of styles. I wandered 

thoroughfares lined with Chinese-style 

shophouses and colonial villas, their 

courtyards fragranced with frangipani. 

Shutters were the kind you’d see in a 

Provençal village, married with filigree 

ironwork eaves created by artisans 

from Vietnam. Some of these heritage 

buildings have been adapted to create 

exquisite little hotels, some are coffee 

shops, some art galleries or massage 

parlours. The presence of the Mekong, 

and sometimes the Nam Khan, at the 

end of every street added a sense of 

calm wellbeing, with cars pretty much 

absent. Boats, rickshaws and bicycles 

proved the best way of getting around. 

Renting two wheels I was in a blur of 

nostalgic bliss, visiting sights. The 16thcentury 

Wat Xieng Thong, built for Lao 

royalty on the tip of the peninsula, was 

a stunner, containing a riot of depictions, 

in gold leaf, of the Ramayana stories 

— the Indian epic later adapted by 

the Lao people — and a tree of life 

‘ 

SOME OF THE 

HERITAGE 

BUILDINGS HAVE 

BEEN ADAPTED 

TO EXQUISITE 

LITTLE HOTELS 

’ 

mosaic embedded with emeralds 

and lapis lazuli on the back wall. 

Each morning, just before dawn, 

came the city’s cultural highlight, as 

orange-robed temple monks emerged 

in silent single file onto the street, to 

receive alms from local women. The 

age-old ritual was over by the time the 

sun had risen and breakfast beckoned. 

I passed French-influenced bakeries 

and courtyard restaurants, while eating 

avocado baguettes and yellow-duck 

noodle soup, mesmerised by the slow 

waltz of boats out on the water. 

Late in the day I’d joined the crowds 

heading up the 328 steps to sit under 

the pagoda on the top of Phu Si hill 

and watch the departing sun run 

its fingers lovingly across the goldpainted 

gable ends of the temples, 

before saying farewell from behind 

the misty rills of forested hills. After 

that came the night market, arrayed 

with fishermen’s trousers, lanterns, 

and jewellery fashioned from the scrap 

metal of war — a sombre reminder 

that the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the hotly 

contested Vietcong supply line in the 

Vietnam War, mostly ran through Laos. 

Finally, each evening, came the 

difficult decision of where, and what, 

to eat. It was all very enchanting, 

and I could almost think, as I sat at 

a little bistro sipping a drink while 

waiting for my order of shrimp bisque, 

that it was untouched by modern 

life — but modern life always has 

the last laugh. My time ran out, and 

I had to leave — this time via Luang 

Prabang’s front door, on a jet plane. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 



GREAT BARRIER REEF 

Reef encounter 

She’s a beauty — no wonder the Great Barrier Reef 

tops so many travellers’ bucket lists.But is the view 

from below as ‘great’ as it used to be? 

Andrew Eames takes the plunge 

GOLDEN 

GLOW 

Diwali (7 

November) 

is one of 



Bob was sitting on the 

upper deck of a pontoon 

moored to Agincourt Reef. 

A solitary figure, absorbed 

in his newspaper, he was every inch 

the authentic Aussie, complete with 

hat, shorts, and an unflinching 

certainty to his world view. 

Our eyes met, so I remarked that 

it wasn’t the most peaceful place to 

read, on a deck awash with families 

in flippers launching themselves into 

the water in a flailing mass of arms 

and legs. ‘I guess not,’ he grinned. 

Bob, it turned out, had recently retired 

after a lifetime in the unrelenting 

glare of Australia’s Red Centre, and he 

thought the green tropical north was 

brilliant, the Great Barrier Reef its 

Crown Jewels. ‘All that wonderful stuff 

going on down there.’ He surveyed the 

water proprietorially. ‘You been in?’ 

I had. I said I’d seen a clownfish 

family. That had been good. The Nemos 

had been doing their whole flustery 

house-proud thing, darting around the 

fronds of their anemone. And there’d 

been loads of giant clams, shellfish 

the size of fridge-freezers with velvety 

mantles that looked like debauched 

hotel double beds. ‘Plus there’s a huge 

grouper that hangs under the pontoon, 

called Susie. As big as a barn door.’ 

But I didn’t want to admit that 

I’d hoped for more. That the fish 

density had been thin, and the corals 

themselves disappointingly... well, 

beige. I suspected that wasn’t what 

Bob would have wanted to hear. 

I love anything to do with the sea, 

so the Great Barrier Reef — one of the 

seven wonders of the natural world 

— had long been on my bucket list. 

This is, after all, the world’s largest 

living organism, visible from space, 

comprising 2,900 reefs, 900 islands, 

300 coral cays and 1,625 species of fish, 

many of them in magnificently weird 

shapes and extraordinary colours. 

I’m lucky enough to have done a bit 

of diving — and a lot of snorkelling 

— in some incredible places, but to 

my mind the sheer scale of the GBR 

had always kept it a league apart. But 

the more I heard about its magical, 

myriad life forms, threatened by years 

of heatwaves and tropical storms, it 

became something I simply had to see 

‘ 

BRIGHT 

YELLOW 

GOATFISH, 

RISING IN 

UNISON LIKE 

FLUORESCENT 

MIDGES OUT OF 

HEATHER 

’ 

— before I really did kick that bucket. 

So I’d come with a mix of hope — and 

fear. And to get a handle on the huge 

breadth of the thing I’d set myself 

something of a personal target: I wanted 

to see the Great Eight, which is the 

Barrier Reef’s equivalent of an African 

safari’s Big Five. These eight iconic, 

spectacular creatures have recently been 

selected by the Marine Park Authority 

as representative of the sheer diversity 

to be found on the Reef. They’re a mix 

of generic and specific, with turtles, 

sharks, whales and rays on the list, along 

with clownfish, Maori wrasse, giant 

clams and potato cod. I only had a few 

days, but was resolved to tick them off 

— after all, it might be my only chance. 

Spending a day out on that doubledecker 

pontoon at Agincourt was my 

first, and inexpensive, eyeful of the 

undersea. Quicksilver’s giant catamaran 

— seats for 400 — had gobbled up the 

65km commute from the rainforestwrapped 

mainland, and by the time 

we returned to Port Douglas in late 

afternoon I’d been on a discovery snorkel 

with a marine biologist and a ride in 

a semi-submersible, but I’d only got 

clownfish and giant clams ticked off my 

list. So I needed to go deeper. Literally. 

Next day, brandishing my PADI scuba 

certificate, I headed out again. I’m not 

an experienced diver, but fortunately 

there is nothing testing about the 

warm, aquarium-like waters of the 

Reef, particularly as I was buddied up 

with a Scottish oil-rig diver used to 

the ‘scuzzy’ (his word) North Sea. Jim’s 

eyes were like saucers as we descended 

among bizarrely long trumpetfish, 

which were taking it in turns to do 

headstands above the boulder coral. 

Below them was a shoal of fingersized 

bright yellow goatfish, rising in 

unison out of a coral cauliflower, like 

fluorescent midges out of heather. 

Despite this increased access, though, 

after two dives and one snorkel I’d only 

chalked up one further sighting: the 

Maori wrasse, a labrador-sized fish that 

evolution had face-painted in purple 

and green. A hump-headed pair had 

mooched nonchalantly around the coral 

stack, pretending to look very cerebral — 

the Forrest Gumps of the Barrier Reef. 


Opposite: Oriental 

sweetlips swim in the 

sun-pierced ocean 

This page: Sunset over 

the heritage listed Port 

Douglas wharf 



With three down and five to go I 

needed to up my game. I was sad to 

leave Port Douglas, which has a laidback, 

bohemian vibe, its streets lined 

with sweet-smelling frangipani and 

lavender-flowered jacaranda. It is 

almost exclusively a purpose-built 

holiday resort, with its reef-andrainforest 

double act, and its main 

drag split between the outfitters who 

organise trips during the day, and the 

terraced restaurants and bars who fuel 

the trippers into the balmy night. 

Cairns, 68km south, turned out 

to be altogether more substantial. It 

had history — 150 years of it, starting 

with a gold rush that brought dozens 

of different nationalities to what 

was then an isolated shanty town. 

Today there are backpackers from 

Europe wandering along its seafront 

esplanade and day-trippers off the 

cruise ships nibbling on crocodile 

satay in its boardwalk restaurants. 

From here I headed offshore again, 

this time on a propeller aircraft that 

skimmed out over batik-effect spangles 

of turquoise and gold, streaked with 

rust and rimmed with silver surf. My 

destination was an island with history 

longer than Cairns, because back in 1770 

Captain James Cook had landed here 

during a voyage that nearly ended in 

disaster when his boat went aground. 

Lizard Island has since become a 

great deal more hospitable, occupied 

as it is on one flank by a marine 

research station, and on its most 

sheltered side by a luxurious barefoot 

retreat for honeymooners and CEOs. 

The resort’s 40 suites and villas are 

carefully landscaped into lawns shaded 

by seagrape trees and pandanus palms 

behind a couple of the island’s 24 whitesand 

beaches, where they are presided 

over by a sumptuous restaurant open 

to evening breezes soughing through 

the casuarina trees. Most importantly, 

for my purposes, it had dive boats and 

snorkel boats, access to special sites 

and stacks of local knowledge, and was 

prepared to assemble these assets to 

suit a guest’s whims. Especially a guest 

with a shopping list of fish to see. 

First, the turtles. Easy: no boat 

required, they said, and that afternoon, 

biologist Ben took me over to the 

research station (which has been 

‘ 

LIZARD ISLAND 

HAS ON ITS MOST 

SHELTERED SIDE 

A LUXURIOUS 

BAREFOOT 

RETREAT FOR 

HONEYMOONERS 

AND CEOS 

’ 

responsible for parts of Blue Planet) 

and pointed to the shallows. I felt like 

a cameraman as I slid into the water 

ahead of a green sea turtle grazing on 

the seagrass. As it sauntered past, I 

noted a couple of remoras, or suckerfish, 

on either side, so that from the rear 

it looked as if it was packing pistols. 

Next morning, I clambered aboard 

one of the resort’s dive boats to head 

to the outer reef, with high hopes of 

seeing my remaining four: whales, 

rays, sharks and potato cod. An hour 

later we were at a site called the Cod 

Hole, having seen a minke whale 

unsheathe itself from the water in the 

distance en route. Not a particularly 

breathtaking sight — minkes are 

not large — but it was undeniably 

a whale, doing what whales do. 

As for the potato cod, I was pleased 

to find them pretty much queuing 

up. The Lizard Island dive team has 

permission to feed certain fish, and we 

descended into the transparent waters 

to find a bruiser of a fish with Winston 

Churchill lips and big black splodges 

along its flanks, ready and waiting. This, 

apparently, was Brian, and we’d been 

warned not to pet him, even though he 

bumped into us like a friendly dog. 

We’d also been warned about sharks, 

and it wasn’t long before the divemaster 

drew our attention to a sleek shape, 

circling half out of sight. It was a grey 

reef shark, being proper sharky — but 

more scared of us than we were of it, 

the divemaster said afterwards. Shortly 

after, a whitetip reef shark appeared, 

immobile on the sandy bottom. Big, 

but only threatening at night. 

After just 24 hours on Lizard Island 

I’d notched up four more of my Great 

Eight, although it had taken all the 

resources (and expense) of a far-flung, 

five-star resort to get them. And while 

my quest was nearly complete, I still 

felt a bit disappointed — for all the 

coral and fish I saw, the world’s largest 

reef should have so much more. 

Fortunately, there was a bonus 

moment yet to come on my last evening 

on Lizard Island, on a last-minute solo 

snorkel at Anchor Bay, an easy walk 

from my veranda. The sun disappears 

in a hurry here, as if it has something 

important to do in another hemisphere, 

and I hadn’t allowed myself a lot of 

time. But suddenly there were colours, 

and fish, among candelabras of flamehued 

fire coral and fields of staghorn 

coral with fresh-growing tips of blue. I 

spotted an orange-spine unicornfish, 

a cloud of yellow-tailed fusiliers, and a 

titan triggerfish, seemingly unaware 

of the yellow lipstick smeared all over 

its face. And, yes. Finally a ray — a 

fleeting glimpse, a small one the size 

of a dinner plate, but the moment I 

caught sight of the last item on my 

list, I also glimpsed another form, 

circling. It’s one thing sharing the 

water with a shark when you’re with 

an experienced divemaster, but quite 

another when you’re alone and the light 

is noticeably dimming. I didn’t linger. 

On my last morning I was up early to 

meet the sunrise on the top of Cook’s 

Look, the island’s highest point, where 

the captain himself had climbed in 

search of a way out of the reef. Today 

it is also the only place you can get a 

mobile-phone signal, so I took a selfie on 

the top and WhatsApped it to my family, 

and then watched the rising sun throw 

my shadow across the turquoise sea. 

Almost instantly my phone buzzed 

back at me from the other side of 

the world. ‘How is the Great Barrier 

Reef?’ my daughter wanted to know. 

It was a big question, and one that 

needed a pithy answer — especially 

if I wanted to get back down in time 

for breakfast — so I tapped out four 

words that I thought summed it up: 

‘Endangered, but still beautiful.’ 



Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 


This page: Soft, 

colourful corals around 

Lizard Island 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

This page: A traditional 

Greek salad Right: The view 

over Chora Sfakion town 


CRETE 

Seeking serenity in high-season 

Crete? Dana Facaros finds the 

crowd-free, timewarp beauty beyond 

the island’s brochure beach resorts 


CRETE 

n the village we sat sipping iced coffees, 

the ubiquitous frothy, bitter, refreshing 

taste of a Greek summer. Around us 

worry beads clacked; ducks quacked; 

and villagers doing their morning 

shopping stopped for a chat in the 

dappled shade of an olive tree. In the 

tiny main square of Fodele, we were 

only an hour away from the coast and 

Crete’s hulking capital, Heraklion, but it 

felt as if we’d travelled back light years. 

Don’t get me wrong. Like everyone 

who’s holidayed here, I love Crete for 

its coast. Every time I’ve visited my 

cousin Despina over the years, we’ve 

lazed the hours (days, weeks) away on 

the quieter shores that unravel east 

and west of Heraklion, where Despina 

teaches English at a local school. I’ve 

always left with a deep tan and sunny 

memories, of wiggling our toes in warm 

sands and giggling over family anecdotes 

as the rays dry our swimsuits, while 

her architect husband, Theo, steps out 

in a suit and takes care of business. 

But I was so glad we’d made the 

journey, this time off the beaten track, 

inland to the Crete that time forgot. Not 

solely because of the peace, the quiet 

and those caffeine hits, but because it 

showed me how much there is in Crete 

to see beyond the big brochure resorts. 

I love Heraklion — the poster city 

for the whole island — as much as the 

other sun-seeking thousands who fly in 

for the bargain summer hotels of Agios 

Nikolaos, or the five-star resorts around 

the holiday town of Elounda, on the Gulf 

of Mirabello, a couple of hours’ drive east. 

But this time, my annual date with 

Despina was to take a different tack. 

The two of us had spent the morning on 

the beach at Fodele. Theo was absent, 

working in Sitia, a port town a long 

drive away, towards the easternmost 

tip of Crete. We were gossiping and 

bronzing as usual, when clouds brought 

a sudden grey to the day, hanging over 

the mountains that sweep down to 

the sands. Despina sat up and took 

off her shades, gesturing towards the 

family pick-up truck parked nearby. 

‘That might be it for a while. Fancy 

a drive?’ 

Did I? Motoring in Crete is always 

travel heaven: the peaks, the twistedlicorice 

byways, the olive groves glinting 

to the horizons. Unlike Greece’s smaller 

‘ 

AS WITH SO MANY 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 

BEYOND THE MAIN TOURIST 

CIRCUIT HERE, WE HAD 

THE MOMENT ALL TO 

OURSELVES 

’ 

specks (Cyclades, Dodecanese), Crete 

feels like a fully-fledged country. In an 

hour you can roll from Greek island 

to Tuscany to Switzerland. Birthplace 

of Zeus, it is as old as time, home to 

Europe’s first literate civilisation, the 

Bronze Age Minoans, and scattered 

with their crumbling legacy. On Crete, 

it takes more than clouds to stop play. 

As it happened, the sun was returning 

wanly as we drove into Fodele village, 

warming the valley we passed through 

to reach it, lush with orange, lemon and 

mandarin groves. We parked, sat and 

drank, shaded by an olive tree, a gnarly 

thing with leafy branches. Only a sign 

beside it reminded us we were not just in 

the back of beyond but in the arty heart of 

things. Fodele, it read, was the birthplace 

in 1541 of Doménikos Theotokópoulos, 

aka El Greco, the artist who matured, 

in Venice, Rome, Madrid and finally 

Toledo, into a singular force of nature. 

Strolling, we found his birthplace, 

now a museum, and gawped at 

reproductions of his strange, visionary 

works, so defiantly unlike any other 

of the Spanish Renaissance age. 

‘I have to say he could only have been 

a Cretan’, said Despina. ‘He wasn’t afraid 

to be different.’ Cretans are famously 

fearless. When Nazi paratroopers 

invaded and occupied the island, men 

and women, young and old, fought 

them with scythes, butcher’s knives and 

rocks, even their bare hands. After the 

war, Nikos Kazantzakis (author of Zorba 

the Greek), charged by the UN to report 

on Axis atrocities, found the Nazis had 

destroyed more than 100 Cretan villages. 

One of the most infamous, Anogia, 

was our next stop, in the mountains 

above Fodele. We drove past clustered 

homes and olive groves, beeping sleeping 

dogs off the road and overtaking, much 

to our delight, a granny in black riding 

side-saddle on a donkey, who smiled 

and waved while engrossed in a mobilephone 

chat. Slowly — ominously? — the 

landscape grew savage. A golden eagle 

hovered in the blue-black sky. Bells 

jangled as a herd of goats skipped off the 

road. The goatherd — mustachioed, clad 

in black shirt and tall boots — nodded 

with the noble bearing of a Homeric 

hero. Far off loomed Crete’s highest peak, 

Psiloritis: ancient Ida, sacred to Zeus. 

Anogia greeted us, immaculately 

whitewashed, its photogenic square 

filled with café tables and wonky chairs. 

It was hard to believe this was its fourth 

incarnation. The Turks destroyed it twice. 

Nazis razed it in reprisal for harbouring 

members of the Cretan Resistance who 

had abducted the German General, 

Kreipe. After the war, the widows of 

Anogia’s fighters turned to needlework 

to survive. Even today houses are draped 

in vivid woven bags and tablecloths. 

We lunched at a little taverna called 

Aetos, on tender lamb ofto, redolent of 

fresh mountain air and wild herbs, slowcooked, 

shepherd-style, from the heat off 

charcoal embers. It tingled the tastebuds, 

but the overriding sensory takeaway 

from Anogia was for the ears and eyes: 

in a tiny museum we found the works of 

a folk artist nicknamed Grylios (‘bulging 

eyes’), who started sculpting and painting 

naïf, heartfelt scenes of the village at the 

age of 68. While we took them in, tunes 

fluttered from a lyraki, a three-stringed 

violin played by Giorgios, his son. 

The road back to Heraklion had more 

in store: at Tylissos, we savoured the 

solitude of half an hour, late afternoon, 

among three ancient villas built by the 

Minoan people in the 16th-14th centuries 

BC. As with so many archaeological sites 

beyond the main tourist circuit here, 

we had the moment all to ourselves. 

A breeze wooed eerily in the pines as 

we ran our fingers over the warmed 

stones, channelling the long-haired 

Minoans in their colourful kilts. ‘Like 

Bronze Age hippies,’ I said to Despina, 

Credit: Dana Facaros/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

This page, clockwise from 

above: Shepherding a herd 

of goats on a country road; 

the Venetian Walls in Heraklion; 

a woman sits side-saddle on 

a donkey; wooden louver 

window shutters in Crete's 

common blue, a typical feature 

of local houses 

GOLDEN 

GLOW 

Diwali (7 

November) 

is one of 


CRETE 

lost in her remoted-eyed trance. 

Returning to Heraklion was a shock to 

the system. Tour buses growled at traffic 

lights. Bars rang with chattery European 

languages — the high-spirited voices of 

crowds gearing up for the night. But the 

fading apricot light lent a kind of aura. 

Despina, having stopped to buy oranges, 

took me on to the Venetian Walls, then 

up the steps to the bastion where Nikos 

Kazantzakis, one of the most celebrated 

Greek writers of recent times, was 

buried. Despina arranged the oranges 

around his tomb. ‘He requested fruit 

instead of flowers,’ she explained, then 

translated his famous epitaph. ‘“I hope 

for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free”.’ 

Something about this special day 

had liberated me, too — the elements, 

the savage scenery, the real people with 

classic customs. The raw remoteness 

had made me want more. So it was 

serendipity when we opened Despina’s 

front door to find Theo home a day early. 

He’d had to leave his car in Sitia due to 

an electric-cable failure, and hitch a lift 

back home with a colleague. It would 

be ready the next day, but Despina 

was too busy to fetch it. So was he. 

Me? Next morning I was on a bus 

heading east, with a quick stop at Agios 

Nikolaos. As smells of coffee and oil 

from its bus station faded, I felt bliss. 

The highway snaked around the coast, 

the bays glinting like shields far below 

in the silver light. The Gulf of Mirabello 

veered from arid late-summer peaks 

to isles caught between sea and sky in 

shades from pale turquoise to cobalt. 

The conductor checked my ticket. 

‘What a beautiful day to ride the bus,’ he 

exclaimed. He was a cheery soul in his 60s, 

with a sweet smile and twinkling eyes. 

‘A beautiful day indeed!’ I chimed in. 

He regarded me curiously: ‘Where 

are you from?’ (Translation: I can 

tell you’re Greek, but a bit dodgy). 

‘My father’s from Ikaria.’ 

This response always gets a knowing 

look. Ikarians have a reputation for 

being slightly bonkers, although 

he was clearly undeterred. 

‘And what are you doing in these parts?’ 

Running an errand for my cousin, 

Despina, I told him, whereupon 

his eyes grew wide. ‘Despina is the 

name of my mother, my wife and 

my daughter. I am Nikos. You must 

dine with us while you are in Sitia!’ 

I dialled home to Heraklion and told 

my cousin. She asked to have a word with 

Nikos, who was thrilled to speak to yet 

another Despina. When he passed the 

phone back to me, she said, ‘He sounds 

lovely. Find a hotel and stay a couple of 

days. Theo can do without a car for a bit.’ 

In Sitia I found the best of both 

worlds — the simplicity of a mountain 

village, and the buzz of a real Greek beach 

town, by the clear waters of the Aegean. 

A string of tavernas curled around a 

waterfront parade studded with fat 

These pages: The old Venetian 

harbour in Rethymnon 


palms, and cafes sighed with poignant 

Cretan music played by musicians who 

wandered from one to the other. 

I found a hotel and, looking out from 

my window as the evening turned purple 

with nightfall, saw lamps like pearls, 

flickering and showing the way to town. 

It was steeped in the feel of ‘Old Greece’. 

At a dusty newsstand I found books still 

priced in drachmas. I inhaled the special, 

unmistakable scent, a mix of freshly 

ground coffee, cinnamon and oregano, 

wafting from the grocers’ shops in the 

alleys. There was the happy hubbub of 

Greek families carving up fish at lamplit 

tables by the quay. Carefree children 

pedalled about in the warm air, as elderly 

folk watched them, and the world, pass by. 

What good fortune, finding myself 

alone with a car and a free diary for a 

day or two. I motored east to Vai, an 

extraordinary strand studded with a 

thick grove of palm trees — the largest 

in Europe — grown, says legend, from 

dates discarded by Arab pirates. I pootled 

up to Itanos, a cove as tiny as a bite from 

a biscuit, for a swim in waters of glass, 

overlooked by the remains of an ancient 

site. And when my phone rang, and Nikos 

insisted on honouring his invitation the 

next night, I felt as good as anointed. 

At the end of a pitted lane just 

beyond Sitia, his rosy-cheeked wife 

(Despina), opened the front door of 

their generator-powered cottage, and 

welcomed me like a long lost relative. 

We dined on Cretan bruschetta (dakos), 

tzatziki and stuffed tomatoes. 

I couldn’t drive back to Sitia, so they 

made a bed for me on the sofa. And there I 

slept the sweetest sleep, coiled in the heart 

of this real, tourist-free, homely Crete. 



XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

‘ 

THE HIGHWAY 

SNAKED 

AROUND THE 

COAST, THE BAYS 

GLINTING LIKE 

SHIELDS FAR 

BELOW IN THE 

SILVER LIGHT 

’ 


FALL IN LOVE WITH OUR 

HONEYMOON DEALS 

Escape to a magical place and celebrate 

the beginning of your new life together. 

Book one of our honeymoon 

packages for special offers in 

dreamy beach locations 

and make the most of 

your time away with 

each other. 

Book at dnatatravel.com 

call 800 DNATA (36282) or 

speak to us in-store 

Download our app 

| Follow us on

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Weekends 

Staycations and short-haul escapes 

© Ibrahim Albeshari @ialbeshari 

LOVE IS IN THE AIR 

Dubai is famous for its masterful man-made feats, 

and the new Love Lake in Al Qudra certainly has 

the wow factor. Unveiled by His Highness Sheikh 

Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, 

Crown Prince of Dubai, the two interlocking heartshaped 

lakes are luring curious travellers due to 

their mystery and beauty. As if it wasn't swoonworthy 

enough, trees have been planted beside the 

water to spell out the word 'love'. 


WEEKENDS 

Reasons to go back to… 

ALSERKAL AVENUE 

Check out the wave of creative happenings at this thriving 

arts and culture hub, where homegrown concepts rub 

shoulders with international gallery outposts 

Book a hands-on lesson. 

The two commissioned 

works that adorn the roofs 

of Alserkal Avenue – When 

Did You Arrive and When Will 

You Return – speak volumes 

about the hub’s ability to lure 

you back. The community 

events offer a chance to 

explore your talents, like the 

two-hour weekly workshops 

on drawing techniques at 

thejamjar. Taking place on 

Tuesdays from 5 February. 

View the new art exhibits. 

Jasmine, soil and Aleppo 

soap-inspired visual 

artist Sara Naim in her 

solo exhibition Building 

Blocks, at The Third Line 

until 27 February. Marking 

the Syrian artist’s second 

outing at the gallery, 

the magnified cellular 

structures of her subjects, 

mounted on wood and 

plexiglass, reveal their 

stunning complexity. There 

are plenty more to galleries 

to discover besides. 

Photo courtesy of Alserkal Avenue 

Gulf Photo Plus 

Snap to it. The 15th annual 

edition of Gulf Photo Plus’ 

Photo Week, taking place 

from 4-8 February, has 

exhibitions and workshops 

by leading photographers, 

as well as free talks and 

sessions. The headline 

exhibition, hosted at 

Concrete, shines a light on 

seven photographers from 

the Arab world, including 

Hicham Gardaf whose 

Intersections project 

explores urban development 

in Morocco. 

For the record. It's not strictly new, but we 

think The Flip Side, Dubai's only independent 

record shop, will be your jam. It carries music 

from around the world and has a cool line-up of 

events hosted by local music buffs. There are 

also documentaries and talks on music in the 

region, making it an educational experience. 

Wild flavours. Even the eateries here are creative. 

Refuel at Wild & The Moon with 

an energy ball (sprouted raw 

walnuts, almonds and raw 

cocoa sweetened with 

dates) prepared by the 

vegan chefs, accompanied 

by a colourful tumeric latte. 


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long 

the 

weekend 

Lisbon 

With vintage 

trams and vibrant 

street life, the 

sun-drenched 

Portuguese 

capital is an 

Instagrammer's 

dream 

This page: The Bica Funicular 

Opposite from top: 

Belém Tower; Altis Belém 

Hotel and Spa 


LONG WEEKEND 

Spread across seven steep hillsides that overlook the 

Tagus River, Lisbon lays on centuries of history and a 

mild, Mediterranean climate despite its Atlantic-facing 

location. Famous for its yellow trams, intricate azulejos 

(hand-painted tiles) and delicious pasteis de nata 

(custard tarts), visitors will also find cool cultural spaces 

and an exciting food scene. 

Although hilly, the Portuguese capital is quite compact 

so you can walk to most places in the city centre. Above 

the 18th-century Baixa (downtown) area, Chiado is the 

cultural heart of the city with boutique-lined lanes, 

theatres and museums. Heading north, the oncesleepy 

Príncipe Real district is now awash with trendy 

restaurants and independent shops. Rising into the hills 

to the east is Alfama, the intriguing old Moorish quarter, 

while picturesque Belém, on the western edge of the city, 

is where Portuguese explorers set sail during the 15th 

and 16th centuries. It’s also home to the World Heritagelisted 

Monastery of Jerónimos and Tower of Belém. 

Our Lisbon guide offers a curated list of the best 

things to see and do, and the hippest places to eat and 

shop, not to mention the best hotels to bed down. So, 

let’s start exploring… 

Lisbon is a stylish city, 

so it's no surprise it has 

good-looking hotels to 

match. On the grand 

Avenida da Liberdade, 

Valverde Hotel has 

25 rooms kitted out 

with rich colours and 

mid-century modern 

furniture. Downstairs, 

there’s a buzzy 

Mediterranean restaurant 

and a leafy courtyard 

that hosts regular fado 

and jazz performances. 

Housed in a former 

palace below the 

mediaeval St George's 

Castle, Santiago De 

Alfama is another 

boutique beauty. There 

are 19 calm, neutral 

and stylish rooms, 

many with freestanding 

baths, and a restaurant 

serving seasonally-led 

Portuguese cuisine. 

Meanwhile, in a 15thcentury 

palace attached 

to the castle walls, the 

intimate 10-suite Palácio 

Belmonte is a favourite 

of the fashion and film 

set. The art-filled hotel 

features thousands of 

antique blue-and-white 

HOT HOTELS 

Find the perfect place to stay in the 

Portuguese capital 

Portuguese tiles as well 

as a black marble 

infinity pool. 

At the other end 

of the scale, the 

Corinthia Hotel is the 

city’s largest five-star 

abode. Overlooking a 

magnificent 18th-century 

aqueduct, there are 

518 plush rooms and a 

fabulous spa featuring 

13 treatment rooms. 

Down by the river, the 

glass-walled Altis Belém 

Hotel and Spa draws 

style-conscious travellers 

with its slick design, 

monochromatic interiors 

and Michelin-starred 

restaurant. Soak up the 

sun beside the rooftop 

pool and be pampered in 

the award-winning spa. 

top 

tables 

Lisbon's inventive chefs 

make the most of the 

country’s incredible bounty 

BELCANTO 

This two 

Michelinstarred 

restaurant 

in Chiado is 

helmed by 

José Avillez, 

who combines respect for 

local ingredients with a 

playful touch. belcanto.pt 

LEOPOLD 

In the Palácio Belmonte 

hotel, chef Tiago 

Feio creates delicate 

dishes that fuse local 

ingredients with Asian 

flavours. Open for dinner 

Wednesdays to Sundays. 

leopoldrestaurant.com 

CANTINA PERUANA 

With a laidback bohemian 

vibe and dishes made for 

sharing, Peruvian chef 

Diego Muñoz brings a bit 

of Lima to Lisbon. Be sure 

to order the tuna tiradito 

and wok-fried seafood. 

cantinaperuana.pt 


etail 

therapy 

Looking to take home an 

authentic slice of the city? 

Check out these top shops 

Embaixada 

In the heart of the Príncipe 

Real district, this boutique 

shopping gallery is housed 

in a 19th-century Moorishstyle 

palace, complete 

with a grand staircase 

and courtyard. There 

are around 20 stores 

specialising in fashion 

and design from local 

brands, including madeto-measure 

tailoring at 

UOY and organic skincare 

from Organii Cosmética. 

embaixadalx.pt 

Luís Onofre 

For statement heels 

and luxury handbags 

handcrafted in Portugal, 

stop by Luís Onofre’s 

flagship store on Avenida 

da Liberdade (aka Lisbon’s 

Champs-Élysées). Spread 

across two floors, you’ll 

find the latest women’s 

and men’s collections 

from Portugal’s 

premier shoe 

designer, 

whose celeb 

fans include 

Michelle 

Obama and 

Naomi Watts. 

luisonofre.com 

A Vida Portuguesa 

This old-style emporium 

(pictured) stocks 

Portuguese-made products 

from small independent 

brands, including 

stationery, toiletries and 

homewares (don’t miss the 

iconic Bordallo Pinheiro 

cabbage leaf ceramics). 

There are four locations 

in Lisbon, including the 

flagship store in a former 

perfume factory in Chiado. 

avidaportuguesa.com 

CULTURE FIX 

Hit hard by the global 

financial crisis, Lisbon is 

undergoing a creative 

renaissance with new 

cultural landmarks 

and vibrant street art. 

Start your gallery trawl 

in Belém at Museu 

Coleção Berardo 

(museuberardo.pt), the 

city’s most acclaimed 

contemporary art space. 

Housed in the minimalist 

Belém Cultural Centre, 

the gallery displays 

an impressive private 

collection of abstract, 

surrealist and pop art, 

from Picasso through to 

Warhol and Portugal's 

own Paula Rego. 

Continue along the 

riverfront to the Museum 

of Art, Architecture 

and Technology (maat. 

pt). Opened in 2016, this 

eye-catching cultural 

space is covered in 

15,000 white tiles and 

capped with a rooftop 

terrace. Inside, you’ll 

find contemporary 

works across four 

sunken galleries. Keep 

walking east to LX 

Factory (lxfactory.com), 

a cluster of once-derelict 

warehouses beneath 

the 25 April suspension 

bridge that is now Lisbon’s 

coolest creative district. 

Browse the colourful 

collection of art spaces, 

boutiques and cafés, then 

check out the street art 

murals that adorn the old 

factory walls. Jump on a 

tram heading downtown 

and visit the Museu do 

Design e da Moda (mude. 

pt), a wonderful fashion 

and design museum 

housed in former bank 

in Baixa. Celebrating the 

connection between 

modern design and 

contemporary 

fashion, explore the 

vast collection of 

contemporary furniture 

from iconic names such 

as Philippe Starck and 

vintage couture from the 

likes of Jean Paul Gaultier 

and Yves St Laurent. 

Finish up at the Jeanne 

Bucher Jaeger Gallery 

(jeannebucherjaeger. 

com) in nearby Chiado, 

the first international 

outpost of the Parisian 

gallery, which exhibits 

works by lesser-known 

contemporary artists 

such as André Bauchant 

and Michael Biberstein. 

street art and graffiti. 

SOUL MUSIC 

Known as the Portuguese blues, fado originated in 

the streets of Alfama in the 19th century. Mournful 

folk ballads feature a lone singer accompanied by 

a Portuguese 12-string guitar and overflow with 

the feeling of saudade – a yearning for something 

lost. Stop by the engaging Fado Museum 

(museudofado.pt) in Alfama to learn about the 

history of fado and listen to its most celebrated 

artists. Next, skip the touristy tavernas and catch 

a live performance at local favourite Tasca do 

Jaime, a tiny restaurant in Graça (get there early 

or book a table). 


LONG WEEKEND 

Opposite page, from top: 

Museu do Design e da Moda 

© Luísa Ferreira; A Vida 

Portuguesa; Fado Museum, 

photo courtesy of Visit Lisboa 

This page from top: The red 

rooftops of Miradouro das 

Portas do Sol, the gardens at 

Fronteira Palace 

INSPIRING VISTAS 

Lisbon’s many miradouros (viewpoints) 

offer picture-perfect views of the city 

MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL The city’s most 

famous vantage point offers unbeatable views over 

Alfama’s red rooftops. Head here for sunset, stopping 

first at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, just a minute’s 

walk away, to admire its historic azulejos. 

MIRADOURO DO RECOLHIMENTO Walk along the 

ramparts of the 11th-century St. George’s Castle for 

fabulous views of the city all the way to the Tagus. 

Then seek out the Miradouro do Recolhimento, an 

olive-shaded square within the castle walls, for more 

dreamy views minus the crowds. 

MIRADOURO DA SENHORA DO MONTE Take the 

rickety yellow Tram 28 to the Graça neighbourhood 

and then stroll to this lesser-known miradouro. It’s 

one of Lisbon’s highest lookouts, boasting panoramic 

views of St. George’s Castle and the Bairro Alto and 

Baixa districts. 

Words: Lara Brunt 

insider tips 

Filipa Valente, 

founder of Taste of 

Lisboa Food Tours 

(tasteoflisboa. 

com), shares 

her favourite 

hometown haunts: 

The famous Tram 

28 route finishes in the Campo de 

Ourique neighbourhood, but many 

tourists don't explore this relaxed 

residential neighbourhood. It’s full 

of trendy and traditional restaurants 

where locals hang out, as well as 

the Campo de Ourique Market 

(mercadodecampodeourique.pt) which 

is packed with gourmet food stalls. 

Don’t leave without tasting a pastel 

de nata (custard tart) at Manteigaria 

(facebook.com/manteigaria.oficial) in 

Chiado where you can watch the bakers 

at work. And definitely try our seafood 

– I love Ramiro (cervejariaramiro.pt) in 

Downtown and Nune's Real Marisqueira 

(nunesmarisqueira.pt) in Belém. Bring 

your appetite! 

AMAZING 

AZULEJOS 

Introduced to the 

Iberian Peninsula 

by the Moors in the 

Middle Ages, azulejos 

(handpainted tiles) 

adorn many palaces, 

buildings and metro 

stations around Lisbon. 

Explore 500 years 

of tile trends at the 

National Tile Museum 

(museudoazulejo. 

gov.pt), housed in 

a splendid 16thcentury 

convent, and 

join a guided tour 

of Fronteira Palace 

(fronteira-alorna.pt) in 

the Benfica area, known 

for its antique azulejos 

in both the palace and 

gardens. Check out the 

geometric-patterned 

tiles in the Parque and 

Restauradores metro 

stations, and stop by 

Sant’Anna (santanna. 

com.pt), Portugal’s 

oldest ceramic factory, 

to join a tile-painting 

workshop or buy some 

azulejos to ship home. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI 

3 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI... 

Dreamy 

resort hotels 

Get washed up at these blissful island hideaways 

© Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort 

1 

Jumeirah at Saadiyat 

Island Resort. Home to 

mangroves, dolphins 

and Hawksbill turtles, the 

castaway-style Saadiyat 

Island is brimming with 

nature. And if sustainability 

is top of mind, this new kid 

on the block (the property 

opened in November 2018), 

will win you over with its 

efforts to cut plastic usage. 

Overlooking the sparkling 

waters and protected sand 

dunes, it's an idyllic place to 

unwind, with three infinity 

pools to splash around in, 

sunrise yoga sessions and 

bicycles available so you can 

explore at your own pace. 

2 

Desert Islands Resort 

& Spa by Anantara. 

Fuel your adventurous 

side at Sir Bani Yas Island, a 

protected wildlife sanctuary 

located just off the coast 

of Abu Dhabi. Home to 

free-roaming animals, 

including the endangered 

Arabian oryx, its blend of 

wild luxury will make you 

feel far removed from the 

mainland. The resort itself 

is nestled on the north 

shore between a lagoon 

and the sea, with rooms and 

suites overlooking the Gulf. 

There are plenty of ways to 

discover the island's bounty, 

from family wildlife drives 

to exploring the ancient 

ruins and rock formations 

on horseback. 

3 

Zaya Nurai Island. This 

boutique island resort, 

just 10 minutes by 

boat from Saadiyat Island, 

has accommodation to suit 

all types of travellers, from 

the bijou one-bedroom 

Beach Villas to the familyfriendly 

six-bedroom Beach 

Estates, which each boast 

a private stretch of sand. 

Be pampered in an oceanview 

spa treatment room 

and take part in tai chi 

overlooking the gardens. 

Dining options stretch from 

modern Mexican to sushi, 

with private dining serving 

up the romance. 


One Destination 

ENDLESS FUN 

Enjoy an ideal staycation for the entire family and enjoy a world of luxury and 

comfort at any of our two beachfront hotels, JA Palm Tree Court or JA Beach 

Hotel conveniently located only 15 minutes away from Dubai. Relax by one of 

the 4 pools and on the 800m private beach or experience the thrill of over 30 

exciting activities such as horse riding, golf, water sports and many more. 

For bookings or more information, please call +971 4 814 5400 

or email reservations.ptc@jaresorts.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X JUMEIRAH MESSILAH BEACH HOTEL & SPA 

STAYCATION 

Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa 

A seaside idyll sitting pretty on Kuwait's glittering coast 

THE ROOMS 

At Jumeirah's crown jewel in Kuwait City, 

the living spaces deliver comfort and 

class – as one has come to expect from 

this trusted brand. Heritage is honoured 

alongside luxury in each of the 316 rooms 

and suites, 79 residential suites and 12 

private villas. Check into a 'home away 

from home' with a three-bedroom villa, 

or reside like royalty in a majestic Royal 

Suite (with its own butler, no less). 

THE FOOD 

Eight international restaurants please 

every palate, such as sumptuous cuts 

at Pepper Steakhouse and delectable 

Italian fare at Olio, to cultural recipes 

from Kuwati cuisine at Arabesque. In 

this month of love, the Romantic Stay 

Package ensures a daily three-course set 

dinner for two at the acclaimed seafood 

enclave Salt – with decorated cakes to 

further sweeten the occasion. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

Two main attractions are lauded in the 

hotel's very name – the beach, and the 

award-winning Talise spa. Located in 

seclusion on the shore of the Arabian Gulf, 

this hotel's two swimming pools, array of 

leisure pursuits and 200m of private sand 

will tempt you into the outdoors. The spa 

boasts 17 treatment rooms and a menu 

of wellness treats, including a must-try 

healing stint in the Himalayan Salt Room. 

To find out more, call +965 2226 9600 or visit jumeirah.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA 

STAYCATION 

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa 

Let this rustic Arabian oasis charm its way into your travel plans 

ROOMS & SUITES 

Designed in harmony with the 

surroundings, you'll feel at one with 

the dunes inside these abodes – from 

the Superior Room with its desert or 

courtyard views, to the Deluxe Suite, 

which fits families of four and has a 

terrace with a seating area ideal for 

gazing at those golden sunsets. The 

Junior Suites are decorated with rare, 

handcrafted Arabian furnishings. 

THE FOOD 

Enjoy a traditional meal under a blanket 

of stars at the open-air Al Hadheerah 

restaurant, which recreates a One 

Thousand and One Nights style setting, 

for an evening of vibrant dining and 

entertainment. Plus, the whole family 

can indulge at The Garden Brunch, 

which takes place every Friday at Al 

Forsan restaurant, offering an extensive 

buffet and lots of kids' entertainment. 


Those with a feel for adventure can take 

a four-wheel-drive into the desert to 

watch the sun set while whizzing across 

the sands (60 mins for 6 people). You'll 

even get a close-up look at protected 

indigenous wildlife such as desert 

gazelle and Arabian oryx. Bring your 

heart rate back to normal at Satori Spa, 

which offers tip-to-toe pampering 

packages for men and women. 

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 


EXPERIENCE 1001 ARABIAN NIGHTS AT AL HADHEERAH 

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa presents Al Hadheerah, its spectacular desert 

entertainment and authentic food. Explore the sights, sounds and tastes 

of Arabia at an authentic desert venue amidst the rolling dunes. 

Feast under the stars, and enjoy a night of entertainment, live music, belly dancing, 

traditional instruments and exclusively on Thursday & Fridays 

a fireworks display will light the sky. 

BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA 

Dubai,United Arab Emirates 

T:+971 4 809 6194, bas.restaurants@meydanhotels.com 

alhadheerah.com 

alhadheerah alhadheerah alhadheerah

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

Dukes Dubai 

With its Palm Jumeirah address and distinct British character, Dukes Dubai reigns supreme 

THE ROOMS 

Offering the best of British hospitality 

in the UAE, Dukes Dubai has all the 

ingredients for a fun-filled holiday. 

Cosy up in a luxurious guestroom or 

stay for longer in a tastefully furnished 

hotel apartment – Arabian Gulf views 

included. This month’s Suite Moments 

Valentine’s Day package treats romantics 

to a dreamy set-up in a Dukes Deluxe 

Suite, and private dining on the beach. 

THE FOOD 

Tuck into hearty classics with a twist 

at Great British Restaurant (GBR) or 

taste a North Indian palette of flavours 

at Khyber. Just be sure to keep Friday 

afternoons free for the Dukesy Family 

Brunch, which takes place at West 14th 

Steakhouse from 1pm-4pm. Grab a seat al 

fresco and tuck into tasty food from the 

live cooking stations while the children 

get stuck into the self-serve buffet. 


Make the most of the private beach access 

and bask in the winter sun before taking 

a refreshing dip in the infinity pool and 

setting sail in a pool float along the lazy 

river for some wet and wild fun. 

Unwind with a yoga class by the indoor 

pool while the little ones run off steam 

at Dukesy Kids Club (for ages five to 12), 

which invites them to get creative with 

cooking classes, arts and crafts and more. 

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit dukesdubai.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

Rise to the top at the world's tallest five-star hotel 

ROOMS & SUITES 

This lofty hotel has ample space to 

welcome guests. Its 1,608 guestrooms 

and suites have luxurious finishings 

– think marble bathrooms with rain 

showers and oversized tubs – and 

views of the glittering skyline or Dubai 

Water Canal. Families can book a suite 

and spread out in two separate living 

and sleeping areas. Room service is 

available around the clock. 

THE FOOD 

There are 15 award-winning restaurants 

and bars at the property, each serving 

memorable meals. Fans of delicious 

steak will want to head straight to 

Prime68, while Positano is the place to 

feast on handmade pasta and pizza. For 

something a bit different, try Japanese 

restaurant Izakaya – the resident Wasabi 

Girl (she has green hair) will prepare 

fresh wasabi at your table. 


The hotel is close to many top 

attractions, but there are lots of perks 

that'll tempt you to linger for longer at 

the property. Take a dip in the sparkling 

outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot 

of pampering, head to Saray Spa, which 

is home to the UAE's only Dead Sea 

floatation pool. Try the Saray Golden 

Hammam, which includes a decadent 

skin massage using 24-karat gold. 

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 


Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the 

Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. 

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants 

and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 

17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular 

Meeting Spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

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THROUGH 

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Sandbank at 

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"As soon as our speedboat 

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going strong. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a 

suite that has a character and style all of its own 

Luxury Studio Suite 

The Bloomsbury, London 

Were we to issue an award for London's bestdressed 

hotel room, The Bloomsbury would 

claim the honour with ease. In what is itself a 

beautiful and historic red-brick building (one 

modelled on Queen Mary's doll house), Michaelis 

Boyd's (Soho House Group) vintage-style 

upholstery complements statement wallpaper 

and parquet floors in a suite that could very well 

define 'homely'. And if you think this is stylish, 

wait until you see the restaurant and lounges... 


Ronald Codrai © Department of Culture and Tourism - Abu Dhabi 

رونالد كودراي © دائرة الثقافة والسياحة - أبوظبي 

DISCOVER 

THE STORIES 

OF OUR NATION’S 

PROUD PAST. 

ABU DHABI’S 

LEGACY AND HISTORY. 

Qasr Al Hosn is the oldest and most significant building 

in Abu Dhabi. It includes the city’s first permanent 

structure, a coral and sea stone watch tower built to 

protect the settlement of Abu Dhabi established on the 

island in the 1760s. Qasr Al Hosn became home to the 

ruling family, a seat of government, and it now stands as 

our nation’s living monument, telling the story of 

Abu Dhabi and its people. 

Book your experience at qasralhosn.ae

Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, 

is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for 

a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, 

over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, 

a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, 

as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

World Traveller February 2019

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