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LONG WEEKEND<br />
Opposite page, from top:<br />
Museu do Design e da Moda<br />
© Luísa Ferreira; A Vida<br />
Portuguesa; Fado Museum,<br />
photo courtesy of Visit Lisboa<br />
This page from top: The red<br />
rooftops of Miradouro das<br />
Portas do Sol, the gardens at<br />
Fronteira Palace<br />
INSPIRING VISTAS<br />
Lisbon’s many miradouros (viewpoints)<br />
offer picture-perfect views of the city<br />
MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL The city’s most<br />
famous vantage point offers unbeatable views over<br />
Alfama’s red rooftops. Head here for sunset, stopping<br />
first at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, just a minute’s<br />
walk away, to admire its historic azulejos.<br />
MIRADOURO DO RECOLHIMENTO Walk along the<br />
ramparts of the 11th-century St. George’s Castle for<br />
fabulous views of the city all the way to the Tagus.<br />
Then seek out the Miradouro do Recolhimento, an<br />
olive-shaded square within the castle walls, for more<br />
dreamy views minus the crowds.<br />
MIRADOURO DA SENHORA DO MONTE Take the<br />
rickety yellow Tram 28 to the Graça neighbourhood<br />
and then stroll to this lesser-known miradouro. It’s<br />
one of Lisbon’s highest lookouts, boasting panoramic<br />
views of St. George’s Castle and the Bairro Alto and<br />
Baixa districts.<br />
Words: Lara Brunt<br />
insider tips<br />
Filipa Valente,<br />
founder of Taste of<br />
Lisboa Food Tours<br />
(tasteoflisboa.<br />
com), shares<br />
her favourite<br />
hometown haunts:<br />
The famous Tram<br />
28 route finishes in the Campo de<br />
Ourique neighbourhood, but many<br />
tourists don't explore this relaxed<br />
residential neighbourhood. It’s full<br />
of trendy and traditional restaurants<br />
where locals hang out, as well as<br />
the Campo de Ourique Market<br />
(mercadodecampodeourique.pt) which<br />
is packed with gourmet food stalls.<br />
Don’t leave without tasting a pastel<br />
de nata (custard tart) at Manteigaria<br />
(facebook.com/manteigaria.oficial) in<br />
Chiado where you can watch the bakers<br />
at work. And definitely try our seafood<br />
– I love Ramiro (cervejariaramiro.pt) in<br />
Downtown and Nune's Real Marisqueira<br />
(nunesmarisqueira.pt) in Belém. Bring<br />
your appetite!<br />
AMAZING<br />
AZULEJOS<br />
Introduced to the<br />
Iberian Peninsula<br />
by the Moors in the<br />
Middle Ages, azulejos<br />
(handpainted tiles)<br />
adorn many palaces,<br />
buildings and metro<br />
stations around Lisbon.<br />
Explore 500 years<br />
of tile trends at the<br />
National Tile Museum<br />
(museudoazulejo.<br />
gov.pt), housed in<br />
a splendid 16thcentury<br />
convent, and<br />
join a guided tour<br />
of Fronteira Palace<br />
(fronteira-alorna.pt) in<br />
the Benfica area, known<br />
for its antique azulejos<br />
in both the palace and<br />
gardens. Check out the<br />
geometric-patterned<br />
tiles in the Parque and<br />
Restauradores metro<br />
stations, and stop by<br />
Sant’Anna (santanna.<br />
com.pt), Portugal’s<br />
oldest ceramic factory,<br />
to join a tile-painting<br />
workshop or buy some<br />
azulejos to ship home.<br />
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