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World Traveller February 2019

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LONG WEEKEND<br />

Opposite page, from top:<br />

Museu do Design e da Moda<br />

© Luísa Ferreira; A Vida<br />

Portuguesa; Fado Museum,<br />

photo courtesy of Visit Lisboa<br />

This page from top: The red<br />

rooftops of Miradouro das<br />

Portas do Sol, the gardens at<br />

Fronteira Palace<br />

INSPIRING VISTAS<br />

Lisbon’s many miradouros (viewpoints)<br />

offer picture-perfect views of the city<br />

MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL The city’s most<br />

famous vantage point offers unbeatable views over<br />

Alfama’s red rooftops. Head here for sunset, stopping<br />

first at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, just a minute’s<br />

walk away, to admire its historic azulejos.<br />

MIRADOURO DO RECOLHIMENTO Walk along the<br />

ramparts of the 11th-century St. George’s Castle for<br />

fabulous views of the city all the way to the Tagus.<br />

Then seek out the Miradouro do Recolhimento, an<br />

olive-shaded square within the castle walls, for more<br />

dreamy views minus the crowds.<br />

MIRADOURO DA SENHORA DO MONTE Take the<br />

rickety yellow Tram 28 to the Graça neighbourhood<br />

and then stroll to this lesser-known miradouro. It’s<br />

one of Lisbon’s highest lookouts, boasting panoramic<br />

views of St. George’s Castle and the Bairro Alto and<br />

Baixa districts.<br />

Words: Lara Brunt<br />

insider tips<br />

Filipa Valente,<br />

founder of Taste of<br />

Lisboa Food Tours<br />

(tasteoflisboa.<br />

com), shares<br />

her favourite<br />

hometown haunts:<br />

The famous Tram<br />

28 route finishes in the Campo de<br />

Ourique neighbourhood, but many<br />

tourists don't explore this relaxed<br />

residential neighbourhood. It’s full<br />

of trendy and traditional restaurants<br />

where locals hang out, as well as<br />

the Campo de Ourique Market<br />

(mercadodecampodeourique.pt) which<br />

is packed with gourmet food stalls.<br />

Don’t leave without tasting a pastel<br />

de nata (custard tart) at Manteigaria<br />

(facebook.com/manteigaria.oficial) in<br />

Chiado where you can watch the bakers<br />

at work. And definitely try our seafood<br />

– I love Ramiro (cervejariaramiro.pt) in<br />

Downtown and Nune's Real Marisqueira<br />

(nunesmarisqueira.pt) in Belém. Bring<br />

your appetite!<br />

AMAZING<br />

AZULEJOS<br />

Introduced to the<br />

Iberian Peninsula<br />

by the Moors in the<br />

Middle Ages, azulejos<br />

(handpainted tiles)<br />

adorn many palaces,<br />

buildings and metro<br />

stations around Lisbon.<br />

Explore 500 years<br />

of tile trends at the<br />

National Tile Museum<br />

(museudoazulejo.<br />

gov.pt), housed in<br />

a splendid 16thcentury<br />

convent, and<br />

join a guided tour<br />

of Fronteira Palace<br />

(fronteira-alorna.pt) in<br />

the Benfica area, known<br />

for its antique azulejos<br />

in both the palace and<br />

gardens. Check out the<br />

geometric-patterned<br />

tiles in the Parque and<br />

Restauradores metro<br />

stations, and stop by<br />

Sant’Anna (santanna.<br />

com.pt), Portugal’s<br />

oldest ceramic factory,<br />

to join a tile-painting<br />

workshop or buy some<br />

azulejos to ship home.<br />

worldtravellermagazine.com 63

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