Style: March 01, 2018

78 STYLE | travel
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Nomads of Todgha Plains; Skoura rest stop; Kasbah Amridil views; Camel jockeys
Most of our third day was spent driving through to
the Merzouga Dunes, just 15km from the Algerian
border. Our camels were ready for the hour trek to
camp. Abdul had joked that after three hours on a
camel one is ready for the hospital and, after barely an
hour, we wondered if that was true.
Arriving at camp, we were just in time for a
spectacular view of the dunes bathed in the golden
glow of the setting sun. Sunlight and shadows created
mosaics all around us as we watched the sun set.
Red Berber carpets were spread across the camp
like ribbons over caramel-covered sand. After dinner
the local boy band played drums in front of a roaring
bonfire.
The tent did little to shield us from the freezing
temperatures that night, but the blankets kept the edge
off. We caught the sunrise the following day by hiking
up the dunes, fuelling up on breakfast before climbing
on our camels to head back to Erg Chebbi.
After returning to Marrakech, Abdul recommended
a traditional hammam – Turkish bath. TripAdvisor
highly rated Alphais Spa, so we promptly booked
their massage/hammam package in a bid to ease away
the last impressions of our camel transportation. We
entered the steamy cave-like room and lay down on
a marble slab. We were quietly enjoying the zen-like
calm, when suddenly, without warning, a large bucket of
hot water drenched us. Black henna-soap was applied
head to toe before attendants donned a scrubbing
mitt and proceeded to scour us – essentially rubbing
raw every square inch of our exposed bodies. Another
rinse followed and a ghassoul (a clay mask) was applied
and allowed to dry. We were rinsed again with bucket
after bucket of hot water. The treatment ended with a
fragrant rose moisturiser and a shampoo. An authentic
Moroccan experience not to be missed.
To celebrate our last evening in Morocco, we made
our way through the souks to Jemaa el-Fna Square for
dinner at Nomad. The crowds that night were crushing,
and we made slow progress moving forward. Dinner
on the roof-top terrace gave us a safe bird’s eye view
of snake charmers, belly dancers and Berber dancers
mixed with juice stands, fake Nike shoes and iPhones.
Morocco is a country where African, Arab and
European cultures are intertwined to create a most
delightful and unique travel destination. You can ski,
mountain bike, surf, or ride camels if you are prepared
to travel. You can enjoy luxury resorts, ancient riads,
golf courses and spas. But the best part of Morocco,
without a doubt, is its gracious people.