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Viva Lewes Issue #152 May 2019

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FOOD REVIEW<br />

Rights of Man<br />

Truly excellent<br />

What a fine lunch we enjoyed, the first Friday<br />

of the Rights of Man new Spring and Summer<br />

menu. We were seated in the front window, on<br />

high padded comfortable chairs. I like the way<br />

the pub’s front bar is all nooks and crannies:<br />

each table enjoying its own booth. There’s also<br />

a roof terrace, I noted, when I popped upstairs.<br />

The food was exceptional. We shared each<br />

plate: to start, ‘Seared Sussex Scallops, Kohlrabi<br />

Chorizo, Spring Onions, Chilli & Confit Tomato’<br />

£8.50. The scallops, said my husband, were<br />

“melt-in-the-mouth perfect”; and the chorizo<br />

“stunning, flavourful, lingeringly spicy”. It was<br />

a beautifully judged dish, three scallops, three<br />

slices of chorizo, a great combination and really<br />

nice sauce.<br />

We also tried the ‘South Brockwell Farm<br />

Asparagus, Iberico Ham, Toasted Sour Dough,<br />

Poached Egg, Parmesan Crisp’ £7: also excellent.<br />

“Subtle, filling, rather more rustic”, Pete<br />

said, comparing it with our other starter. This<br />

was one of the things we relished about the<br />

whole meal: every dish seemed to have its own<br />

quite distinct character.<br />

The same went for our main courses. The<br />

‘Pan Fried Black Bream, Cherry Tomato,<br />

Black Olive & Green Bean Salsa, Sauteéd New<br />

Potatoes’ £14 had a “sharp” edge (in a good<br />

way): Pete spoke of the “beautiful medley of<br />

vegetables”, and how “succulent and sweet” the<br />

tomatoes were; that the bream was “perfectly<br />

cooked: tender”.<br />

The ‘Seared Salmon Fillet, Wilted Chard,<br />

Broad Bean & Pea Gnocchi, Chive Cream<br />

Sauce’ £13, meanwhile, struck us as a creamier,<br />

more comforting dish, overall. I loved it. The<br />

salmon was meltingly tender, and I especially<br />

loved the mix of peas, broad beans and gnocchi<br />

that made an inspired combination, both visually<br />

and taste-wise. ‘Hand-on-heart delicious’, I<br />

wrote in my notes.<br />

We were too full, really, after that to want<br />

puddings. But had been so impressed so far we<br />

couldn’t resist.<br />

Pete tried the ‘Apple & Frangipane Tart’ with<br />

‘Chantilly Cream & Almond Crumble’ £6, and<br />

I could not – can never! – resist ‘Sticky Toffee<br />

Pudding’, with ‘Rich Toffee Sauce, Crumb &<br />

Ice Cream’ £6. Rich doesn’t really cover it – but<br />

the pudding was also beautifully spongy, almost<br />

bouncy(!), crunchy and delicious. Pete said his<br />

frangipane was “unusual, lovely, moist, apricoty,<br />

nutty…” The pudding servings were generous,<br />

and we were replete.<br />

All very lovely: a really positive experience.<br />

Washed down with Harvey’s. Charlotte Gann<br />

179 High St, rightsofmanlewes.com<br />

Photos by Charlotte Gann<br />

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