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World Traveller May 2019

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culture<br />

f ix<br />

Home to some 150<br />

museums, Paris is one<br />

of the undisputed arts<br />

capitals of the world.<br />

Of course you have to<br />

visit the Louvre; 15,000<br />

people file past the<br />

Mona Lisa every day, but<br />

you can beat the crowds<br />

by visiting during the<br />

late-night openings<br />

on Wednesdays and<br />

Fridays. Housing the<br />

largest collection of<br />

impressionist art in<br />

the world, the Musée<br />

d’Orsay is another<br />

must-see, while you can<br />

get your modern and<br />

contemporary art fix at<br />

the Centre Pompidou.<br />

Make time for smaller<br />

museums and galleries,<br />

such as the Jean Nouveldesigned<br />

Institut du<br />

Monde Arabe, which<br />

showcases treasures<br />

from the Arab world,<br />

and L’Atelier des<br />

Lumières, which features<br />

a new immersive<br />

digital exhibition on<br />

Vincent van Gogh.<br />

The Fondation Louis<br />

Vuitton, meanwhile,<br />

is currently exhibiting<br />

110 Impressionist<br />

masterpieces from<br />

the collection of English<br />

industrialist Samuel<br />

Courtauld (until June 17).<br />

HAUTE CUISINE<br />

L'Astrance Book well ahead<br />

for a table at chef Pascal<br />

Barbot’s two-Michelinstarred<br />

spot in the 16th<br />

Arrondissement, which<br />

seats just 25 diners. Then<br />

look forward to a tasting<br />

menu that combines<br />

modern French cuisine with<br />

influences from the Far East.<br />

astrancerestaurant.com<br />

Ducasse sur Seine One of<br />

France’s most iconic chefs has<br />

opened his latest restaurant<br />

on a sleek riverboat. Opt<br />

for lunch to see the sights,<br />

or float by night to see the<br />

lights, while you dine on<br />

classic dishes such as chilled<br />

lobster and pan-seared lamb.<br />

ducasse-seine.com<br />

Arpège Alain Passard has<br />

retained his three Michelin<br />

stars at this restaurant<br />

near the Musée Rodin for<br />

more than two decades.<br />

His vegetable-driven menu<br />

features produce from his<br />

own organic garden, with<br />

dishes like vegetable arlequin<br />

jardinière with argan oil<br />

semolina. alain-passard.com<br />

elegant<br />

arcades<br />

At the turn of the 19th<br />

century, Paris was<br />

home to more than<br />

200 passages couverts<br />

(covered arcades)<br />

lined with fashionable<br />

shops and cafés. Today<br />

around 20 remain,<br />

with many found in the<br />

2nd Arrondissement.<br />

Passage des<br />

Panoramas, off<br />

Boulevard Montmartre,<br />

should be your first<br />

stop. Home to philately<br />

shops and vintage<br />

postcard dealers, the<br />

city’s oldest arcade has<br />

been revitalised with the<br />

This page from<br />

top to bottom:<br />

Arpège; Galerie<br />

Véro-Dodat ©<br />

Paris Tourist<br />

Office; Musée du<br />

Louvre © Paris<br />

Tourist Office.<br />

Opposite,<br />

from top: a flea<br />

market; Gang of<br />

Earlybirds<br />

opening of Astair [see Best<br />

Bistros]. Cross the road to<br />

Passage Jouffroy, where<br />

sunlight streams through<br />

the glass roof, and treat<br />

yourself to coffee and cake<br />

at Le Valentin. Continue on<br />

to the exquisitely restored<br />

Galerie Vivienne to admire<br />

the mosaic floor and browse<br />

high-end boutiques such<br />

as Jean-Paul Gaultier and<br />

Nathalie Garçon. Pop into<br />

nearby Galerie Colbert to<br />

marvel at its beautiful glass<br />

dome, then finish up in<br />

Galerie Véro-Dodat, which<br />

boasts a black-and-white<br />

tiled floor and Christian<br />

Louboutin boutique.<br />

60 worldtravellermagazine.com

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