The Red Bulletin July 2019

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G U I D E Do it OMAN BY UTMB BEAST IN THE MIDDLE EAST Oman’s first mountain ultramarathon is a gruelling 137km race across hazardous ridges and untouched landscape. Lou Boyd bore witness to this tough new adventure Moving mountains: one of the 326 ultrarunners passes though a canyon at Jebel Akhdar It’s 5am, and from our vantage point on a cliff edge of Oman’s Jebel Akhdar – aka the ‘Green Mountain’ – we spot a line of small white lights bouncing across the rock face opposite: the leading pack in the Oman by UTMB have reached the 82km mark. The 137km race – the sultanate’s first-ever mountain ultramarathon – starts in the village of Birkat Al Mawz and takes athletes through more than 7,800m of elevation, past forests, abandoned villages, palm plantations, deep wadis and narrow gorges, and up extreme Jason Schlarb on the ascent to the Alila hotel, set high on a cliff 90 THE RED BULLETIN
Oman TRAVEL TIPS ARABIAN NIGHTS (AND DAYS) Make the most out of your visit to Oman with our handy guide Making history: the race leaders pass through the ruins of Birkat Al Mawz Part of the Al Hajar mountains, Jebel Akhdar is located 150km from Oman’s capital, Muscat, and is the historic home of the ancient Bani Riyam tribe. Amid the mountain range, at 2,000m above sea level, sits the Saiq Plateau, an abundantly fertile region with its own microclimate Muscat Saiq Plateau Oman MARK LLOYD/ LLOYD IMAGES, TEST4OUTSIDE.COM LOU BOYD Top team: UTMB’s running crew plan out the route before the arrival of the entrants mountain trails. More than 10 hours in, most of the competitors will have covered less than 50km. The task has already proved too much for some: a third of runners have already given up and are waiting to be found and picked up by the organisers. Only the best of the best will have reached this point by sunrise; athletes more than 50km behind the frontrunners will probably face a second night on the trail if they’re to reach the finish line. As the sun finally makes an appearance, elite runners Jason Schlarb and Diego Pazos are the first to come into clearer view. Emerging from the valley, they scramble up the technical rocks, Many runners speak of tears, injury, even hallucinations in their darkest moments passing us with smiles and waves before striding on towards another 10 hours of running. Many of the world’s top endurance athletes have travelled to Oman for its inaugural mountain ultramarathon, organised by the prestigious, Chamonix-based UTMB (Ultra-Trail du Mont- Blanc). Prior to the race, very few official running trails existed in PAY OMANI RIAL £1 = 500 baisa 1,000 baisa = 1 rial EAT MAJBOOS A traditional rice dish similar to India’s chicken biryani. The meat (which can also be lamb or fish) is spiced and marinated MASHUAI Whole kingfish from Oman’s coastal waters, rubbed in oil and spices, spit-roasted and served with rice and cashews QAHWA Bitter coffee served with dates. Etiquette dictates you can’t refuse it once offered. Shake the cup to signal you want no more Márhaba Shúkran Maa ismuk? Ismee… Anaa laa afham Na’am Laa TALK Hello Thank you What’s your name? My name is… I don’t understand Yes No KNOW Scientists have detected signs of early human life in Oman dating back 106,000 years Non-Muslims with a residency visa can buy alcohol with a licence, but to a limit of 10 per cent of their monthly salary More than 43 per cent of Oman’s 4.6 million population are expatriates THE RED BULLETIN 91
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The Red Bulletin July 2019

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