World Traveller July 2019

More documents

Recommendations

Info

A winter sunset over Peggys Point Lighthouse in Peggys Cove, Nova Scotia 54 worldtravellermagazine.com
CANADA ‘ SOPHIA HAD FOUND THE DRAMA SHE CRAVED. A MONTH LATER, I HEARD HER TELLING HER FRIENDS OF THE WHALES AND CAPTAIN TOM ’ A few days later, in Annapolis Royal, beyond the park, we encountered the early European settlers who had been so keen on the town-hall idea. At Fort Anne, it was time for a bit of history. Scampering round the ramparts where battles were fought, and peering into dungeons where prisoners of war were held, we found history was suddenly fun. Through the 18th century, this valley had been a battleground between the English and the French for ascendancy in the New <strong>World</strong>. While bewigged chaps in chandeliered rooms in London and Paris put their names to treaties, out here, ships were sunk, lives were destroyed and men perished. In its heyday, Fort Anne changed hands seven times before the Brits finally prevailed and the French were obliged to hand over Canada in 1763. At Port-Royal, they have recreated the first settlement in Canada, a French fort set round a courtyard. Sophia tried her hand at the blacksmith shop, while I stretched out in the workmen's bunks. In the gate lodge, we got dressed up in three-cornered hats and beaver jackets for selfies. In a warm Canadian summer the place seemed rather idyllic. But it wasn't, at least for those early settlers. In their first winter here, half of the 79 Frenchmen died. The next morning, we headed along the shores of the Bay of Fundy, down a long finger of land known as Digby Neck. The morning was fogbound, and the Neck, barely 5km wide, felt insubstantial, hovering between land and sea. At the end of the Neck, I managed to manoeuvre our beast of a home onto a small ferry for the crossing to Long Island and our whale-watching outfit. Kitting up in orange flotation suits, we waddled down to the Zodiac that would have us at eye level with the sea monsters. The Bay of Fundy is one of the best places in the world for whalewatching and Captain Tom, a kind of whale-whisperer, has managed to locate whales on virtually every outing over the course of 30 years. As he steered our boat into the bay, he engaged us with tales of humpbacks, minkes and finbacks, of sightings of the endangered North Atlantic right whale, of the outing when a blue whale, the Earth's largest creature, surfaced just metres from his boat. After a time Tom cut the engines and we drifted. The sea was cloaked with fog. The shore, the bay, even the sky above us, had disappeared behind grey veils. An eerie silence had descended, punctuated by the muffled sound of ships' horns calling mournfully to one another. Then through the fog came the unmistakable sound of a whale blow. Moments later the leviathan appeared, barely 20 metres from the boat, a long grey back breaching. It looked huge — until its mother broke the surface. Fifteen metres of barnacled, scarred whaleback arching through the waves, blowing a spout of water three metres into the air, is something to raise the hair on the back of anyone's neck. Their size made them look as if they were moving in slow motion. And then they dived, raising their fluked tails as if waving goodbye. Sophia was so excited, I thought she had stopped breathing. We spent the next hour following them as again and again they breached, throwing their great spouts into the air, riding the waves before diving with that dramatic flourish of their tails. Sophia had found the drama she craved. A month later, I heard her telling her friends of the whales and Captain Tom. Years ahead, she might just recall the campervan, the road trip and the adventures with Papa. As for me, I'd found all the memories I needed. Stepping out for dinner, strolling down a street in Annapolis Royal, I stopped to chat to a family on their porch and was abruptly back there - in the small town I grew up in; as if, dredging the past, I'd caught it in a golden net of nostalgia. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 55
Page 1:
INSPIRED BY ISSUE 135 | JULY 2019 |
Page 5: Welcome note Whether your idea of b
Page 8 and 9: CONTENTS features 26 38 40 BRILLIAN
Page 10 and 11: TRENDING DESTINATIONS Emily William
Page 12 and 13: Lakeland The largest lake district
Page 14 and 15: CREATE SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US. Sta
Page 16 and 17: GLOBETROTTER Arambrook Boutique Hot
Page 18 and 19: GLOBETROTTER SEE Nujoom Alghanem, P
Page 20 and 21: GLOBETROTTER TO THE CORE Stay beyon
Page 22: WORLD TRAVELLER X SONEVA FUSHI WALK
Page 26 and 27: Ayn Athum, one of the most beautifu
Page 28 and 29: 40 brilliant beaches Some will make
Page 30 and 31: 40 BRILLIANT BEACHES them); and ins
Page 32 and 33: Beirigh, Isle of Lewis, UK Wild whi
Page 34 and 35: REYNISFJARA, VÍK, ICELAND Rugged,
Page 36 and 37: 40 BRILLIANT BEACHES Baie des Anges
Page 39 and 40: Piedmont, Italy XXXXXXXXXXXXX Postc
Page 41 and 42: worldtravellermagazine.com 39
Page 43 and 44: XXXXXXXXXXXXX Opening pages: Ocean
Page 45 and 46: XXXXXXXXXXXXX A colourful lifeguard
Page 47 and 48: ITALY Let’s get ready to rumble W
Page 49 and 50: ITALY This page, clockwise from top
Page 51 and 52: The scenic hills of Langhe worldtra
Page 53 and 54: CANADA e could hear the whales befo
Page 55: This page, clockwise from top left:
Page 59 and 60: XXXXXXXXXXXXX Weekends Staycations
Page 61 and 62: YOUR GUIDE TO DUBAI’S MUST-HAVE V
Page 63 and 64: THE LONG WEEKEND Thriving culture,
Page 65 and 66: THE LONG WEEKEND Opposite page, fro
Page 67 and 68: SUMMER FAMILY HOLIDAYS ROOM DISCOUN
Page 69 and 70: Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comp
Page 72 and 73: 1 INSPIRED BY Reader offers Great d
Page 74 and 75: DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS Le Royal Meridi
Page 76 and 77: THROUGH THE LENS Eibsee, Bavaria "T
Page 78 and 79: XXXXXXXXXXXXX Suite dreams Our mont
Page 80: Indian cuisine Now Open From Mumba
show all

World Traveller July 2019

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?