Nomad Cabin Fever

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

ISSUE 20| JULY/AUGUST | FREE COPY 

CABIN FEVER 

THE GREAT OUTDOORS 

A MOUNTAINEER'S 

JOURNEY 

THE RHINOS FLYING 

TO BOTSWANA 

KAYAKING THE 

NILE RIVER

OUT OF OFFICE REPLY: GONE OUTDOORS! 

2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1

Close Earrings in Brass, Ebony & Leather 

Closure Collection 

@amidoshishah 

www.amidoshishah.com 




EDITOR’S NOTE 

GO BACK AND PACK YOUR GUMBOOTS! 

Iam hopeless when it comes to packing. I always 

forget to bring the most basic of things. A toothbrush. 

The other part in a pair of socks. Body lotion. My 

phone charger. I even rocked up to an airport once 

having forgotten to bring my passport. When it came 

to packing for Mt Kenya, therefore, I packed light, 

and to an onlooker, I might as well have been heading to the 

gym. 

Brian (photographer) and Peter (videographer) came to 

pick me up from my apartment block on the morning of the 

trip, and when I walked out in converse and a small duffel 

bag (which was mostly filled with my photography gear), they 

looked at me in bewilderment. Compared to me, they were so 

bundled-up that Peter was in fact wearing wellies. 

“Are you sure you’re not just being dramatic?” I asked 

pointing to his boots, and shortly after, seeing all the bags 

they had stuffed into the back of the car. 

“You do realize that we’ll be going up to 3,500m above 

sea level, right?” they asked in near perfect unison, as though 

they had rehearsed their lines before I came downstairs. And 

so, after having some sense talked into me, I rushed back to 

the house and packed every piece of warm clothing I had in 

my closet. 

Wellies, though, were another matter altogether. In fact, 

I don’t think I have ever owned a pair. A stop in Thika town 

had me running around in search of a pair ‘just to be on 

the safe side’, and at Bata, I got lucky. Later on during the 

trip, while trudging almost knee-deep through a swamp at 

Ragati Conservancy immediately after crossing a river for the 

umpteenth time, the boys were unabashedly quick to remind 

me how much they had practically saved my life. 

As you do your own packing, don’t forget your mittens, 

scarves, fleece jackets, torches and cooler boxes as you come 

up to the mountains with us. We set off to the eastern and 

southern slopes of Mt Kenya, go caving at Mt Elgon, kayak 

down the Nile and take part in an array of outdoor activities 

which you’re welcome to try. Most of all, remember to go 

back and pack your gumboots! 

wattaonthego 

Wendy Watta 

NOMAD ISSUE. 20 · JUNE/JULY 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU 

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, SOPHIE IBBOTSON, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, MARTYN POLLOCK, WANJIKU KINUTHIA, KARANJA NZISA, 

ROBBIE MINGAY, FAITH KANJA, JOSEPH MURIITHI, HANNAH SIMPSON 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, DANIEL MSIRIKALE, KAELO JONATHAN, PETER NDUNG'U 

DIGITAL FAITH KANJA MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, ANGELA OMONDI 

SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica 


CONTENTS 

ON THE COVER 

RAGATI HOUSE IN RAGATI 

CONSERVANCY. SHOT BY BRIAN SIAMBI 

In this issue 

12. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographers 

capture a waterfall in Tanzania, and a 

mother cheetah with grown cubs in the 

Mara. 

17. WHATS ON 

From the Nyege Nyege festival in Jinja 

to Paint the Run and a mountain biking 

challenge, find a roundup of must-attend 

events this season. 

18. NEWS 

The Lamu coal project gets brought to 

a halt, Great Plains Mara Nyika is set 

to open this August and Hell's Gate 

national park inspires the new Lion king 

film. 

22. GLOBETROTTERS 

A skydiver, hiker, adventure biker and a 

scuba diver share what draws them to 

the great outdoors. 

50. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Music publicist & journalist Anyiko 

Owoko gives us a peek inside her travel 

bag. 

28 


32 

52 

22 

FEATURES 

28. A MOUNTAINEER’S JOURNEY 

With his dad being a mountaineer, 

growing up, Mt Kenya was always a key 

fixture in Joseph Muriithi’s life. Today, 

having climbed it 90 times in five years, 

he recounts what makes this place so 

special. 

32. THE GREAT OUTDOORS 

With no electricity for the weekend and 

miles of beautiful landscape to wander, 

Wendy Watta discovers the joy of fly 

fishing, hiking and a cozy cabin at Ragati 

Conservancy. 

36. DID SOMEONE SAY LAKE ELLIS? 

The Nomad team’s highly anticipated 

drive up to the scenic Lake Ellis at 3,500m 

up Mt Kenya doesn’t exactly kick off as 

planned. 

40. HIKING THE UNDERDOG 

Mt Elgon may get far less visitors than its 

more popular counterparts in Kenya and 

Uganda, but its charm is certainly not lost 

on Martyn Pollock. 

44. ROW ROW ROW YOUR KAYAK 

Whitewater kayaking is one of those 

experiences that seems to be on 

everyone’s bucket list but it’s one of the 

more difficult adventure sports to actually 

get out and try. For kayaking guide Robbie 

Mingay, it’s just another day in Jinja. 

42. THE RHINOS FLYING TO BOTSWANA 

Sophie Ibbotson writes about Rhinos 

Without Borders, a project which aims to 

move 100 rhinos from poaching hotspots 

in South Africa to new safe homelands in 

Botswana’s Okavango Delta. 

REGULARS 

24. AGE OF THE CONSCIOUS TRAVELER 

When people travel, it’s easy to engage 

in what may seem to be great ‘photo op’ 

moments without thinking of the real life 

consequences. Conversations around 

sustainable travel have therefore never 

been more vital. 

26. THE ELEPHANT AND THE BEE 

Samantha Du Toit’s children listen wideeyed 

to an ancient African folktale about 

the largest of land animals being afraid of 

a tiny honey bee, and how this is presently 

being used to help farmers protect their 

crops. 

46 

46. COMOROS: AFRICA’S FORGOTTEN 

ARCHIPELAGO 

Floating between Mozambique and 

Madagascar lies the Comoros, the 

romantically named Islands of the Moon. 

Maurice Schutgens paints a perfect picture 

with five activities that should be on your 

bucket list. 

56. LAGOS WOES 

A series of catastrophes lead to Karanja 

Nzisa almost being stuck at an airport in 

Nigeria in this month’s Last Word column. 


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CONTRIBUTORS 

FANCY A CUPPA? 

ROBBIE MINGAY 

Adventures in Jinja, Page 44 

Usually I'm out on the river, either for work 

or for fun. After a big day of paddling, my 

favourite spot to refuel in Jinja is either Moti 

Mahal's for Indian cuisine or a local bar for 

fried pork and cold beers with friends. 

FAITH KANJA 

Globetrotters, Page 22 

The cold season reminds me of a road trip to 

Nanyuki. I can vividly recall how warming 

the hot chocolate at Barney's Restaurant 

was. Looking forward to another sumptuous 

breakfast there on my next trip north! Trout 

Tree nestled along the Buruget River is also a 

great go-to. 

KARANJA NZISA 

Lagos Woes, Page 56 

Largely due to its proximity to my office, Le 

Grenier à Pain has become a favourite haunt 

of mine. Though not a big coffee person, 

I relish their macchiato, especially when 

accompanied by the poulet curry sandwich 

which feels a lot like home. 

PROTECTING 

OLOOLUA FOREST 

Let’s talk about conservation; let’s have a 

conversation about it. This is what we did 

with the team at the Oloolua Community 

Forest Association (CFA) who are passionate 

about creating awareness regarding 

Nairobi’s green space. 

Oloolua Forest, as CFA reveals, is an 

important wildlife refuge and biodiversity 

hotspot. Considered a lung for Nairobi, 

it covers 618 hectares and is home to a 

significant acreage of indigenous trees. The 

forest is part of the larger Ngong Forest 

block which also comprises Ngong Hills 

and Kibiko Forest. It provides a habitat to a 

variety of wildlife (including small antelopes 

and other mammals such as hyena and the 

occasional leopard). 

Like most forests, Oloolua is under 

threat from human activities. Quarrying, 

encroachment as well as development 

of major roads and the SGR through the 

heart of the forest put it at the brink of 

deforestation. This has sparked the need to 

have the forest fenced in a bid to prevent 

further fragmentation and loss of green 

space. 

Statistics reveal that we are losing 5,000 

hectares of forest cover per year in Kenya. 

This translates to an economic loss of over 

USD 90 million. 

The CFA has taken up the initiative 

to protect and conserve the remaining 

Oloolua Forest by fencing it in two phases. 

This initiative is informed by the successful 

example of the Karura Forest Environmental 

Management Plan. They plan to involve all 

surrounding communities including Gataka, 

Embulbul, Karen and Olkeri. Employing 

forest scouts will provide livelihoods for 

members of this community. Moreover, 

it aligns the forest’s interests with theirs 

through a sense of ownership. A great deal 

of training will be done to ensure sufficient 

empowerment in safeguarding the forest. 

If you haven’t visited the Oloolua Nature 

Trail, here are some unique features about 

the forest: 

• 33-foot Maumau cave 

• Picnic sites 

• Bicycle riding trails 

• Waterfalls 

• Walking trails also suitable for pets 

• Hiking and running trails for nature 

lovers and fitness enthusiasts 

As CFA strives to create a green, safe, 

versatile and recreational space for Nairobi, 

we hope that you are also playing a role 

in ensuring the sustainability of our green 

spaces for future generations. You can 

support them via www.gofundme.com/ 

oloolua. 

For more information, contact: 

olooluaforest@gmail.com 


KAELO JONATHAN 

Instagram: @kaelophotography 

This shot was taken late afternoon in 

the Maasai Mara. I was following a 

mother cheetah with her grown cubs. 

Cheetahs like climbing to higher look-out 

points to be able to scan the area for 

potential prey or predators. When I saw 

the dead tree, I knew this would be a 

perfect opportunity as the group would 

be tempted to climb it, and with the sun 

setting in the background, they did. My 

settings were ISO 200, F/ 6.3 and a 

shutter speed of 1/8000 using a Canon 

1DX Mark II with a 500mm lens. 


TOP SHOTS 


TOP SHOTS 

DANIEL MSIRIKALE 

@that_tanzanianguy 

I took this shot of Malamba Falls about 

15km from Tukuyu town in Tanzania, at 

around 1:00pm on an overcast day. I used 

a Canon 5D Mark IV with a 50mm lens 

using the settings: ISO 100, F/3.5 and 

shutter speed of 1/400 sec. 

Tip: shoot the same subject at different times 

of the day. How the light hits it at different 

times will greatly affect the final image. 



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WHAT’S ON 

NYEGE NYEGE FESTIVAL 

Located on the banks of the Nile in Jinja, Nyege 

Nyege is more than a festival; it’s a real East 

African gathering that brings some of the most 

exciting new acts from the region together with 

exciting musicians from all over the continent 

and beyond (this year especially from Asia, 

South America and the US). Nyege Nyege is 

now considered the most important four-day 

international music festival in East Africa for both 

its one-of-a-kind curation and its unique East 

African party vibe. This year’s event takes place 

from 5th-8th September. For more information and 

tickets, visit www.nyegenyege.com 

PHOTOGRAPH: Make It Kenya Photo / Stuart Price 

KARI CHALLENGE 

This is a one day mountain bike event 

hosted by Mt. Kenya Epik. The challenge, 

which covers approximately 60km, will 

take place on July 27 at KALRO, Muguga. 

Teams are made up of two people and 

categories accommodate men, women, 

mixed teams and juniors. The route takes 

participants through undulating hills set in 

agricultural land and forest areas offering 

a challenging combination of technical and 

endurance riding. Entry and registration 

cost is Ksh 1,500 for adults and Ksh 1,000 

for kids www.mtkenyaepik.co.ke. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Courtesy Paint The Run 

PAINT THE RUN 

The third edition of Paint The Run is finally here. 

Set to take place at the Ngong Forest Sanctuary 

on Saturday July 20th from 11am, get ready for 

their most fun run yet. There will be an exciting 

obstacle run, a glow festival and much more. 

Last year’s theme was well-being, with the aim 

of encouraging mental and physical health using 

fun activities. Get your advance tickets for Ksh 

1500 for one and a Ksh 3500 for a group of 

four via www.cloud9xp.com 


NEWS 

LAMU COAL PROJECT HALTED 

A momentous win for Lamu and environmentalists as tribunal halts 

plans to construct the country’s first ever coal-powered plant near 

the coastal town of Lamu, a Unesco World Heritage Site. The license 

previously granted to Amu Power, the developer of the controversial 

Lamu Coal Plant, has been cancelled. The National Environment 

Tribunal (NET) ruled that the National Environment Management 

Authority (Nema) issued the environmental impact assessment license 

to Amu Power without following the law. The Ksh 200 billion project 

was Kenya’s first coal-fired power plant. The tribunal faulted the 

project for omitting engineering plans and details of the plant from 

public participation. Moreover, the project was not consistent with 

the Climate Change Act. 

GREAT PLAINS MARA NYIKA SET 

TO OPEN THIS AUGUST 

The Great Plains Conservation will be adding to its collection 

another luxurious glamping property in the Mara, after Mara Plains. 

Set in the Mara Naibosho Conservancy, it is set to open its doors 

to the public in early August. The camp is set in a valley, straddling 

a small stream. The light-coloured canvas tents are designed to sit 

under the canopy of umbrella thorn trees while still offering guests 

views out over the bush. Walkways from tents to the main area evoke 

the feeling of a treehouse under canvas, and the camp’s ethic and 

inspiration is one of exploration and adventure. 

LION KING FILM INSPIRED 

BY HELL’S GATE NATIONAL PARK 

The London premiere of the new Lion King Movie saw Magical 

Kenya’s logo being displayed on the film’s back-drop banner. Kenya 

sponsored the movie premiere and the partnership between Walt 

Disney and the Kenya Tourism Board is meant to generate huge 

visibility for the country as a destination. 

Hells Gate National Park inspired the Lion King Film as it is 

considered the home of the Pride Rock. The dramatic and scenic 

landscapes, abundance of wildlife, rock climbing and cycling make 

the park a favourite for many. The 2019 Lion King remake premieres 

on 19th July 2019. 

KENYA LAUNCHES MOUNTAIN BONGO 

RECOVERY PLAN 

The Kenya Forest Service has allocated 776 acres within the 

Mt Kenya Forest ecosystem for conservation of the endangered 

mountain bongo. The land will be used for expansion of the current 

bongo sanctuary and also will be fenced and paddocked to allow 

for breeding. The mountain bongo is a chestnut-red forest-dwelling 

antelope with 12-14 white stripes traversing its shoulders, flanks 

and hindquarters. The country’s population is 77 out of 96 total 

in the world and is under the custody of Mount Kenya Wildlife 

Conservancy in Laikipia. Their population has been shrinking 

considerably due to human activities like poaching and logging, as 

well as diseases and loss of habitat. 


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GLOBETROTTERS 

THRILL 

SEEKERS 

A sky diver, hiker, adventure 

rider and a scuba diver share 

what draws them to the 

outdoors. 

TALISA LANOE 

THE SKYDIVER 

@talisalanoe 

You are an Olympian, what does that entail? 

As an Olympian, swimming becomes more 

of a lifestyle than a sport. I moved away 

from home at a young age to attend a sports 

boarding school. This was characterised by 

long training hours, numerous competitions 

around the world and many sacrifices. 

However, looking back, I wouldn’t change 

a thing. The journey to the Olympics taught 

me so many lessons and helped shape the 

person I am today. 

How did you get into skydiving? 

I believe in living life to the fullest and as 

such, skydiving was on my bucket list. After 

my first (and only) tandem skydive, I didn’t 

get much fulfilment. I therefore decided to 

take the AFF course and get my license. I 

wanted to see the world from a different 

perspective and have the freedom to fly. 

Since then, I have completely fallen in love 

with this sport, and it reminds me that you 

are capable of doing anything you set your 

mind to. Getting my license was one of the 

best decisions I’ve ever made. 

ROOP SINGH KHALSA 

THE ADVENTURE RIDER 

@adventureriders254 

What’s been your most memorable ride thus 

far? 

I went to Addis Ababa with friends, and 

it took us three days. From searching for 

fuel in unexpected places to celebrating 

the Ethiopian New Year upon arrival, this 

is one of my favourite adventures to date. 

Immersing myself in the country’s rich culture 

was one of my highlights. The traditional 

food, coffee and hospitality will have me 

returning. Another memorable ride was 

to Garissa, Lamu and thereafter Malindi. 

We however had to park the bikes at a 

local’s home for two days then take a 

boat to Manda Island and Shela. Feeling 

the breeze came as a relief after a long, 

adventurous ride. 

What satisfaction do you get in being 

outdoors, especially with your bike? 

The experience is priceless. There is so 

much satisfaction when the sun hits your 

face in the morning, when relaxing to a 

magical sunset or being soothed by the 

sound of a river and chirping birds. Getting 

around by bike will definitely take you 

farther and deeper within a short time while 

being in contact with all the elements of 

nature. The sense of self-sufficiency and 

independence is unmatched. All you need 

is a great playlist to listen to inside your 

helmet and you’re set. 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

Aside from Skydiving, what other adrenaline 

driven activities have you immersed yourself 

in? 

I love anything that makes me feel alive. 

I free dive and rock climb. I also love to 

wakeboard, kite surf and scuba dive. 

Sometimes I fear I will give my mother a 

heart attack because I am always either 

jumping out of planes or high edges, or 

swimming with big fish! 

What do you love about the outdoors? 

The fresh air, and the feeling of being such 

a small thing amidst this vast and incredible 

world. I don’t like being confined within four 

walls. When I immerse myself in nature, the 

sky or even under water, I feel grounded, 

humbled and so inspired. 


What’s your dream trip? 

To travel the world on my motorcycle. I 

believe life is short and riding to as many 

destinations as possible makes every second 

count. Meeting new people, capturing 

moments, happily accepting surprises on the 

road and enjoying every kilometer of the 

journey- this to me is the true adventure. 

Would you trade your bike for a car? 

No...any person who owns a car should 

make an effort to learn how to ride a 

motorcycle. The thrill is riveting. 

AZIM ASGER 

THE SCUBA DIVER 

@wind_obsession 

What draws you to the ocean? 

My love for the ocean dates back to my 

childhood...it may sound corny but my first 

memory is that of the ocean. It gives me a 

sense of freedom and I am inspired by its 

colours, especially during sunrise and sunset. 

The variety of marine life is beyond beautiful. 

I have equally met amazing people in my life 

because of getting myself out there. 

How did you get to be a diving and 

windsurfing instructor? 

I was five when I first went diving with my 

father who used to be an instructor. My 

love for the sport had me enrolling for 

PADI (Professional Association of Diving 

Instructors) and from there, I became 

certified. As for surfing, I would go to the 

beach, rent a cracked board for Ksh 40 or 

simply find a plank of wood and try balance 

whilst pretending to be surfing. After a great 

deal of practice and learning, I am now a 

windsurfing instructor. I now also advocate 

for marine life and coral reef conservation as 

well as plastic free oceans. 

What have been some of your best or even 

scary moments under water? 

I remember swimming with two giant 

whale sharks, which was an unbelievable 

experience. It’s always pleasant 

encountering a pod of dolphins during 

dives and joining them for a swim. Another 

best moment was seeing a shark while 

undergoing my PADI training. The excitement 

was comparative to seeing a lion while on 

safari. Scary moments are when my student 

divers get too excited upon seeing something 

interesting and they tend to swim away to 

explore. This is always a risk and I can only 

hope I am fast enough to stop them. 

MIRIAM AMIANI 

THE HIKER 

@just.mimie 

How did you get into hiking? 

I started off in January 2016 after making 

the ceremonial New Year’s resolutions. 

I had decided to indulge in two new 

activities that would challenge me: hiking 

and riding motorcycles. One day I signed 

up for a hike up Mt Longonot. I got rained 

on and was soaking wet from my head 

to my shoes, but I actually enjoyed that. I 

knew it was something I would continue 

doing whenever I got the chance. 

What do you love most about hiking? 

Being in the mountains is a great break 

from the chaotic city life that I live. Aside 

from reconnecting with myself, I have 

met amazing people and most of my 

valuable friendships have been made in 

the mountains. Hiking has been a constant 

reminder that nothing good comes easy. 

The hike may be treacherous but once 

at the summit, you see the beauty of the 

universe beneath you and say to yourself it 

that it was all worth it. 

What draws you to the outdoors? 

It’s the best way to spend time alone or 

with friends. The solitude gives you time to 

think about life, get new ideas and reduce 

stress levels while keeping fit. Once in a 

while, it’s good to actually stop and smell 

the flowers...talk about free aromatherapy! 

Creating great memories and bonding 

with friends is something I have come to 

value about being outdoors. 

Any advice to readers who want to take 

it up? 

Hiking starts with your mental state; if 

you perceive it, then summiting is as easy 

as ABC. All you need is a good pair of 

hiking shoes and a good attitude. Every 

mountain has its own experience and it 

always brings out something new about 

ourselves. 


SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL 

AGE OF THE 

CONSCIOUS 

TRAVELER 

When people travel, it’s easy to engage in what may 

seem to be great ‘photo op’ moments without thinking of 

the real life consequences on things like the environment. 

Conversations around sustainable travel have therefore 

never been more vital, writes Wanjiku Kinuthia. 

Many were appalled 

when Kim Kardashian 

recently shared a 

throwback photograph 

of herself posing next 

to an elephant, with 

a rider straddling it, 

in Indonesia. Kardashian insisted that the 

elephant was photographed in a ‘sanctuary’, 

but many were quick to point out that 

elephant sanctuaries do not share in some of 

the practices visible in the photograph. All 

over the world, when people travel, it’s easy 

to engage in what may seem to be great 

‘photo op’ moments without thinking of the 

real life consequences. 

I'm certainly not an expert in sustainability 

models across tourism industries, however 

I have learned lessons from working on a 

conservation landscape for over seven years 

where sustainable practices are key, and 

interactions with highly conscious travellers 

and friends have ignited conversations over 

many sundowners as to how we can all see 

the world and not ruin it while at it. 

MINIMISE YOUR TRAVEL FOOTPRINT 

One of my dearest friends, Abagi, is a 

vegetarian. When I first found out about 

this, I automatically thought that it was 

for the benefit of animal welfare. But she 

said, "Ciku, I fly too much for work. I'm a 

vegetarian to minimise my negative impacts 

on this world." This brief conversation ignited 

my thinking around how we travel, what 

we do during these trips, how we can take 

ownership of our impacts and try to do 

better. 

According to a study published by 

Nature Climate Change in 2018, the carbon 

footprint of global tourism is four times 

more than previously estimated, accounting 

for about 8% of global greenhouse gas 

emissions. Transport, shopping and food 

are significant contributors. While travelling, 

how often do you consider, alongside cost 

and convenience, the most sustainable 

form of transportation to get to your 

destination? In many cases, aeroplane 

travel is unavoidable. But with regional and 

in-country travel, choosing a train, bus or 

car over an aeroplane is a better option. 

According to a study on green travel by the 

Union of Concerned Scientists, this can mean 

55% to 75% fewer emissions than flying. 

PICK DESTINATIONS THAT ARE 

GENUINELY DOING GOOD 

I often joke, working in conservation in 

Kenya, that most tourism properties are 

quick to declare how their models promote 

development and livelihoods in local 

communities. Usually, there are claims of 

sustainable practices, but the reality on 

the ground is different. Greenwashing, as 

it is called, is the practice of making an 

unsubstantiated or misleading claim about 

the environmental benefits. 

Another dear friend, Kasmira, only travels 

to places where she can effectively research 

and substantiate their green practices and 

social impact. "I usually choose to stay 

on properties that are locally owned or 

managed. Popular tourism sites become 

less impactful for the country and residents 

because they become commercialised and 

focus less on an authentic product. This 

means that they offer little or no real benefit 

to local people." 

One of the quickest ways we check 

for this is to look at the management of 


a property, and then ask ourselves, if we 

stay here for a few days, who does it truly 

benefit? Does it benefit endangered species 

or forests and ecosystems? Does it improve 

livelihoods with direct and clear benefits to 

people? Do they have practical and visible 

sustainable practices? 

FIND WAYS TO GET INVOLVED 

Incorporate activities that involve supporting 

the ecosystem. If you wish to run a marathon, 

run it on Lewa where funds raised directly 

support conservation and development 

work across Kenya. While in Watamu, visit 

the Local Ocean Trust, volunteer for beach 

clean up activities and learn more about 

the marine environment. Every two years 

in January, make a point to visit northern 

Kenya, go glamping and become a citizen 

scientist by photographing and collecting 

data on the endangered Grevy’s zebra. 

Around the world, find similar activities 

that not only enrich your experiences but 

also contribute to creating an improved 

environment. 

EMBRACING SUSTAINABLE LIVING 

We all know the negative effects of single 

use plastic. But beyond plastic, there are 

other products that we use in our day-to-day 

lives, and mostly while travelling, that are 

harmful to the environment. Two examples 

are sunscreen and fast fashion. I only 

discovered recently from The London Chatter, 

a Kenyan lifestyle blogger based in London, 

that there’s more to think about than just 

SPF when it comes to responsibly choosing 

your go-to sunscreen. Most have an active 

ingredient, Oxybenzone, that can be toxic 

to ocean life by damaging coral reefs. 

According to some reports, between 6,000 

and 14,000 tonnes of sunscreen end up in 

reef areas each year. 

The fashion industry is also one of the 

major polluting industries in the world. To 

make better choices, buy less. Buy second 

hand (yay to mtumba!), swap clothes with 

your friends and buy good quality items 

that last longer. Buy clothes from sustainable 

brands while being aware of ‘fake’ 

sustainable ones. While at your destination, 

wear clothes and accessories made using 

locally sourced, sustainable materials to 

promote industries and boost income for the 

people. 

BECOME A SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL 

CHAMPION 

Sustainable travel needs allies, now more 

than ever. Behaviour change is key and we 

all have the power to influence our friends 

and family. Travel influencers and travel 

platforms have already established platforms 

to impart sustainability messages. It’s cool to 

care. 

Do you have a story you would like 

featured in this column? Email a detailed 

pitch to editor@nomadmagazine.co 


NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

THE ELEPHANT 

AND THE BEE 

Cornflakes forgotten, Samantha Du Toit’s children listen 

wide-eyed to an ancient African folktale about the largest of 

land animals being afraid of a tiny honey bee, and how this is 

presently being used to help farmers protect their crops. 

The elephant and the bee. It 

sounds like the start of one 

of Aesop’s fables; a story of 

the largest of land animals 

being afraid of a tiny honey 

bee. Instead it is an ancient 

African folktale, and it turns 

out to be true. The children listened wideeyed 

over breakfast one morning to the story 

of how elephants all over Africa hate even 

the sound of buzzing bees, turning tail and 

fleeing from the noise. Cornflakes forgotten, 

they listened to Lucy King, who works with 

‘Save the Elephants’, explain how she had 

taken the folktale, tried and tested it, and 

then turned it into a means to help farmers 

protect their crops from raiding elephants. 

‘So, the farmers get a fence made of bee 

hives which stops elephants coming in. They 

then get honey to sell and the bees may in 

turn help pollinate more of their crops. This 

sounds like a good idea all round!’ Seyia, 

our daughter, concludes. 

Elephants have returned to this area after 

perhaps a couple of decades of absence. 

Where once simply to see their tracks was 

exciting, they are now a very common 

feature of the landscape. Maasai people of 

my age tell me that all their children have 

seen elephants now and know what they 

are, where as when they were children 

themselves elephants were merely mentioned 

in stories of the past. This, from a wildlife 

conservation perspective, is a source of 

pride for the local communities who believe 

that elephants feel this is a safe place to be. 

But there is a cost too. Elephants have found 

their way to the local farming area, and can 

devastate a farmer’s crop in mere minutes. 

And regularly do so. 

Fast forward a few months; the children 

and I joined the team from Save the 

Elephants, together with the local farmers 

and other community members, to build 

some beehive fences for three farmers up 

in the fields. The children got straight in, 

helping to dig holes, hold up bee hives 

(empty as yet), clip wire and of course have 

sweet, milky tea during the break. At the end 

of the day, we all feasted on fresh goat stew 

provided by the farmer as gratitude for the 

team effort. 

The sun was setting behind the 

escarpment by the time we were driving into 

camp, the children tired, dirty and ready for 

bed. They looked up sleepily as we passed 

a herd of six bull elephants making their 

way out of the thickets and into the plains for 

the night. We whispered to the elephants as 

we went by that they were welcome to stay 

here on the plains and away from the farms, 

while we all hoped the bee hives would fill 

quickly with bees, so as to dissuade these 

majestic animals from eating where they 

were not welcome. I remembered the saying 

‘one man’s pain is another man’s pleasure’ 

which applied so well to this story. It made 

me realise more clearly than ever that if 

conservation is to succeed, we must do all 

that we can to turn more peoples’ pain into 

pleasure. 

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife 

conservationist, working with SORALO, a 

Maasai land trust. She lives with her 

husband, Johann, and their two children at 

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the 

Shompole Conservancy. 


air charter flights 

east africa 

info@tropicairkenya.com | www.tropicairkenya.com 


A MOUNTAINEER’S 

JOURNEY 

With his dad being a mountaineer, growing up, Mt Kenya was always 

a key fixture in Joseph Muriithi’s life. Today, having climbed it 90 

times in a span of five years, the 24 year old certified guide recounts 

what makes this place so special. 

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSEPH MURIITHI 


GREAT OUTDOORS 


Long before my arrival, my father 

was busy climbing mountains for 

a living. My fascination started 

pretty early. I remember walking to 

primary school and each morning, 

the glorious ice-capped peak of 

Mt Kenya would stare back in all 

her majesty. Back then, the slopes 

of Mt Kenya were a complete snowfield, 

the white glare ever present from January 

to December. Whenever my dad was away 

on expeditions, I would look up to the peaks 

and hope to see him. I swear if I squinted 

really hard, I could spot him. 

FIRST HIKE 

During my gap year after high school, I 

asked my dad to take me up the mountain 

for the first time, and he agreed. I had no 

clue what I was getting myself into and was 

mentally and physically unprepared, but this 

experience changed my life. We spent a 

total of four days climbing and descending 

the Sirimon route. Everyday I carried a 5kg 

daypack and each time, my lungs, legs and 

virtually every muscle in my body cried out 

for help. 

“Dad, how far do we have left to the next 

camp?” I asked, panting heavily from the 

heavy exercise. 

“We have three more hours to go,” he 

responded, grinning. “We are done with 

the hardest part of the day,” he added 

reassuringly. 

Spoiler alert: we were not done with 

the hardest part of the day. Getting to base 

camp Shipton’s at 4,200m above sea 

level was so challenging that I started reevaluating 

my existence as a human being 

or why I had even asked to do this. What 

I didn’t realize during the self-reflection, 

however, was that this was the mountain 

asserting its authority and challenging my 

mental endurance. 

The summit, Point Lenana (4,985m) was 

normally attempted at 3:00am, and my dad 

and his clients were to do it the following 

morning. 

“Are you ready to go? Do you think you’ll 

wake up tomorrow and attempt Lenana?” He 

asked me over dinner. 

“Yes, of course. How hard can it possibly 

be?”I responded. 

Early morning came, we had some tea, 

pointed our flashlights in the guide’s (my 

father’s) direction and trekked towards the 

top of the world. This goes on record as the 

toughest three hours of my life. In the eerie 

silence of the mountains, even breathing 

becomes so loud. I started re-evaluating 

my life choices and cursing myself for 

even agreeing to all of this. Still, I trudged 

onwards and upwards. 

After three solid hours of traipsing in total 

darkness, our group finally reached the Via 

Ferrata (metal stairs to the summit). Upon 

climbing these stairs and actually standing 

on the summit, I was suddenly flooded with 

emotions. It felt like a veil had been lifted 

and for split-second, I forgot about all the 

tough trek to get here. Then an orange sun 

rose in the distance and tears of joy rolled 

down my cheeks. A landscape that had been 

engulfed in darkness came to life, and it 

was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. 

There was also an overwhelming sense of 

accomplishment which I am still unable to 

articulate. 

Right there, on that summit, I promised 

myself I would return, and I did, over again 

for four and a half years now. 

LIFE AS A MOUNTAIN GUIDE 

As I gradually racked up the number of hikes, 

I got interested in guiding. Dad had all the 

tools I needed for that. At home, I read his 

collection of books about the animals and 

birds of East Africa, studied plants, animal 

behaviour and the mountain ecosystem and 

finally passed my assessment test to become 

a Mount Kenya Guide. With this knowledge 

came the privilege and opportunity to share 

the experience with travelers from all over the 

globe. My favorite overall is climbing via the 

Chogoria Route and camping by Lakes Ellis 

and Michaelson. 

The greatest honour as a guide is 

witnessing visitors shed tears of joy after 

reaching the summit while uttering words like, 

“Thank you so much Joe. Thank you so much 

for showing us your beautiful mountain”. 

Experiencing that feeling of accomplishment 

after pushing through all that the mountain 

threw at them, just like I did on that first 

climb, and seeing that grand sun take to the 

skies in all its glory. 

BYE BYE GLACIERS 

In the early 2000s and prior, the mountain 

was always decked in permanent ice with 

snow falling every year. Statistics indicate 

that snow fell up to the 3,000m altitude 

zone. This is seconded by my colleagues 

who have been climbing the mountain for 

more than 20 years 

This is now a thing of the past. If there’s 

snowfall, it can only occur at altitudes of 

4,500m and higher. Even if it falls, it melts 

as fast as it hits the rocks. Weather patterns 

have changed drastically. Glaciers, once 

commonplace, are no more. 16 glaciers 

were recorded to rule over the slopes of the 

mountain, and the first to diminish was the 

Krapf Glacier in 1926. 

There are six glaciers left and the biggest 

of them are the Lewis Glacier, Darwin 

Glacier and the Diamond Couloir. All these 

are however shrinking at an alarming rate 

due to climate change. Rivers that once were 

shall dry up. Communities depending on this 

water will suffer and be forced to relocate. 

Dry seasons are already becoming longer 

while the wet seasons get shorter and more 

destructive. The dry spells echo tough times 

for wild animals that call the mountain home. 

It’s not all doom and gloom however. 



My favorite overall 

is climbing via the 

Chogoria Route 

and camping by 

Lakes Ellis and 

Michaelson. 

Organizations like Mount Kenya Trust and 

Rhino Ark play a crucial role in ensuring that 

the locals are well educated on the important 

issues to be addressed regarding Mt Kenya 

as well as what we can do to remedy this. 

LESSONS FROM MOUNTAINEERING 

Nature is beautiful and magnificent, but 

it can also be ruthless and unforgiving. 

Approach it with respect and finesse. 

Kenya is a breathtaking country and its 

natural resources must be protected. 

Mount Kenya has some of the biggest 

buffalos in Africa. 

Wild animals will show you respect as 

long as you respect them first by sticking to 

your guide’s instructions and not diverting 

from footpaths. 

Always bring extra warm gear. Mount 

Kenya may be at the equator but the nights 

are bitterly cold. 

When ascending to higher altitudes, tone 

down the pace to a slow-and-steady in order 

to acclimatize. 

Always stay hydrated. 

Altitude sickness can be very dangerous. 

If you experience the signs and symptoms, 

DON’T hike to higher altitudes. Rest on 

the same elevation. If symptoms get worse, 

descend immediately to a lower elevation. 

WHERE TO STAY 

SIRIMON ROUTE: 

Old Moses Camp (3,300m) 

Shipton’s Camp (4,200m) 

CHOGORIA ROUTE: 

Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (2,900m) 

Rutundu Log Cabins (3,100m) 

The Road Head (3,300m) – campsite 

Lake Ellis (3,470m) – campsite 

Lake Michelson (4,000m) – campsite 

Mintos Hut (4,200m) 

Naromoru Route: 

Met Station (3,000m) 

Mackinder’s Camp (4,300m) 

The list could go on, but to sum it up, 

climbing Mount Kenya 90 times in a span 

of five years has shaped me into the man 

I hoped I’d become. When I thought I 

was punishing myself by carrying heavy 

backpacks, I was being taught perseverance. 

When I thought my body couldn’t take it 

anymore, it taught me endurance. When 

I thought the wilderness and nature were 

dangerous and I didn’t belong there, I 

realized that they are as much a part of me 

as I am of them. Carrying my camera with 

me always, it is my hope to inspire more 

adventurers people from all over the world 

to have the Mount Kenya experience. And 

to those who can’t physically make it to the 

mountain, I pray that my images take them 

along my journey into the Mountain of God. 

Joseph Muriithi (@andreyjosephs) works 

as a guide for his dad’s company, Polemark 

Tours (www.polemarktours.com). 


A CABIN, 

A MYTHICAL FOREST, 

A WHITE MONKEY 

With no electricity for the weekend and miles of beautiful 

landscape to wander, Wendy Watta discovers the joy of fly 

fishing, hiking and a cozy cabin at Ragati Conservancy. 

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI 




Ithought I had developed some 

semblance of pain resistance to 

the stinging nettle, but as my hand 

brushes against yet another low leaf 

along the trail we have been hiking 

through, I instantly feel the intensity 

and wince in spite of myself. Ever 

resourceful, our lead guide Jimmy reaches 

above his head with a machete and cuts off 

the leaf of a plant from the stem. He rubs 

the juice over the already swelling area and 

almost instantly, the pain ebbs. Just in time, 

as I can now focus on admiring the bomb 

crater we have just walked up to; a gaping 

hole in the ground that was once used to test 

bombs in the 1982 coup d'état. 

Shortly after, we come across the Ragati 

River which snakes across the trail with its 

numerous tributaries, and have to cross it, yet 

again. The measured journey across begins. 

I gingerly feel my way around the ground for 

solid footing before making each next step. 

A miscalculation however has me sliding 

over a moss-covered stone, and the ice cold 

water rushes inside my wellies with gusto. 

Once across, there is no time to pour it out, 

however, as we now have to walk across a 

muddy swamp, boots sinking calf-deep with 

every step. As I am next in line after Jimmy, 

I am careful to step exactly where he has 

trudged before me. 

Set on the southern slopes of Mt. Kenya, 

the Afro montane forest here is breathtaking. 

Tall, narrow trees tower high above the 

ground with branches meeting at the top 

to create a canopy which keeps the harsh 

sunlight at bay. The area is said to be 

teeming with wildlife ranging from buffalos 

to elephants, leopards, the mountain bongo 

and an array of birdlife. While there are no 

face-to-face encounters during our hike, the 

signs are there. The closest shave is a buffalo 

which the guides spot somewhere in the 

distance, and given its strong olfactory sense, 

we have to divert off the track to ensure our 

smell doesn’t waft back to it. 

There is an old carcass of an antelope 

that must have been left up the tree by a 

leopard several days ago. Fresh elephant 

dung indicates that they would have passed 

through this path not more than two days 

ago. My favourite, however, is the cluster 

of feathers - of a Haurtlaub’s Turaco - which 

we find lying right next to the river. This bird 

whose beautiful plumage has all the colours 

of the Kenyan flag, and would therefore be 

an excellent national mascot. One of the 

guides lines these feathers along his hat 

resulting in a beautiful design worthy only of 

an avant-garde issue of Vogue magazine. 

An all-white monkey playfully flits through 

the higher branches with two colobus hot on 

its tail. We stare on for a while, and even 

the guides admit that this is the first time they 

have seen it. 

Peter’s (videographer) timer beeps. It has 

been five hours since we started walking 

from the cabin. I am feeling the burn. So 

much so, in fact, that when we have to 

climb yet another fallen tree trunk, I have 

to manually haul my left leg over with my 

hands. Our mecca, however, is a bit of an 

anticlimax today. There is thick vegetation 

but it is the dark cloud cover that blocks the 

mountain’s peak in the distance. We are here 

for all of five minutes, and then it is time to 

circle back. 

THE CABIN 

When we arrive here late at night, we have 

to pack our car a little way from the cabin 

after which a few staff members come to 

help us carry all our luggage inside. A fire is 

crackling in the grate which makes it easier to 

acclimatize. Light is by way of solar powered 

lamps set around the space, but thankfully, 

the water in the shower is hot. There are four 

double rooms, a spacious living and dining 

room, an enviable fully-equipped kitchen with a 

gas cooker where I whip up the day’s supper, 

and a massive front porch. It is however pitch 

black outside, so I am unable to get a true 

sense for the surroundings. 

I am woken up by the sunlight washing into 

my room through the large windows, some 

birds are chirping right outside and I can hear 

the water rushing in a large waterfall which 

I was told is nearby. Like an excited kid at 

Christmas, I rush outside to check out where 

we are, and spotting the scenic glade upon 

which the house sits, my breath is taken away. 

A wooden pathway from the balcony leads 

to a bridge under which the river streams, 

and Ndongoro Log Cabin is by all accounts a 

beautiful spot. 

Fishing is a key activity here, and Jimmy tells 

me that Ragati River was initially stocked with 

rainbow trout in the 1920s. In the time since 

then, they have gained a unique red colour, 

and this is now a go-to spot for fly fishing 

enthusiasts. Armed with all the required tackle, 

we walk down to the base of the waterfall 

where, after a few pointers from Jimmy, I am off 

casting my line like a seasoned pro. 

With no entertainment and the rest of the 

day to just relax, by evening, the cabin fever 

has set in, and I am hallucinating that I’m highfiving 

Forrest Gump. Accommodation starts at 

Ksh 11,500 per person per night, with children 

under seven going for free. This includes the 

conservancy fees, fishing licence, guides, 

fishing equipment, guided walks, staff fee and 

firewood. 



TIPS 

• There is no electricity but solar lamps are 

available. Pack torches and bring a cooler box. 

Bring a book and some board games to while 

away the time as well. 

• If you intend to go hiking, pack wellies. Trousers 

and long sleeved shirts/jackets will also serve 

you better than shorts and T-shirts- the nettles are 

fearsome! 

• This is a self-catering spot so bring all of your 

own food to last the duration of your stay. You 

can do all of your own cooking, but there are 

two cooks that can help as needed. 


DID SOMEONE SAY 

LAKE ELLIS? 

An anticipated drive to the scenic Lake Ellis at 3,500m up Mt Kenya 

doesn’t exactly start out as planned, writes Wendy Watta 

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI, PETER NDUNG'U 




Growing up you are warned not 

to trust strangers, but no one 

ever thinks to warn you about 

a guide trying to keep you 

motivated to keep climbing a 

mountain. I think their ploy is to 

get you so far up that there is 

just no turning back. 

“Lake Ellis is just around the next bend,” 

he says, yet again. When we get to the 

said bend, however, it’s like the lake packed 

her bags and stealthily left in the dead of 

the night like a slighted girlfriend. Ever so 

near, yet so far. I am panting heavily, which 

arguably has less to do with my physical 

fitness and more with me struggling to adjust 

to the altitude. Heck, I remember turning in 

my bed the previous night, and at about only 

3,000m above sea level, that slight activity 

had me wheezing like I had just competed in 

some 100m dash at the Olympics. 

In my defence, too, I had just walked for 

six hours the previous day, and when I woke 

up this morning, a hike was certainly not on 

the itinerary. Matter of fact, the plan had 

been to drive our Land Rover Defender up 

the scenic Chogoria Route on the eastern 

side of Mt Kenya, all the way to Lake Ellis. 

In hopes of catching the sunrise, we had 

gotten up at 5:00am and bundled into the 

car ready to make the 7km stretch which 

would ideally have taken us 30 minutes, 

but even with some forewarning, we had 

underestimated the state of the road. 

It is that last bit of very rocky and 

relatively steep ascent up to the lake that 

gets us, and now, the Land Rover is left 

somewhere along this treacherous trail, and 

I trudge on as though I weigh 400 pounds. 

It is rainy season, too, so mercifully it hadn’t 

poured as there is just no way the car 

would have even made it through that first 

kilometre. 

My hands are blocks of ice and I feel 

as though if I were to knock them on a 

rock, they might shatter all over the place 

into a myriad of bloody fragments. At this 

altitude, I am eyeball to eyeball with the 

clouds, and the rising sun plays peekaboo 

from behind a rocky outcrop. Despite my 

struggle, the scenery makes the climb all the 

more worthwhile. The lush green is emerging 

yet again from the charred remnants of the 

fire that swept through the mountains only 

recently. Reading about it is one thing, but 

seeing the destruction it caused first hand 

is a different matter altogether, and I am 

appalled at the loss of indigenous flora. 

About 30 minutes later, I walk up to an 

elevated viewpoint from which I spot the 

lake shimmering from its base down below, 

and a little above my eye line, all three 

jugged peaks of Mt Kenya are visible. Rocky 

escarpments and green vegetation frame the 

setting. The pain of the climb is forgotten, 

and with renewed energy, I run down to 

the lake and touch its waters. Lake Ellis is a 

beaut. 

We spot some happy campers who as it 

turns out, have been here for two days. One, 

Mathew, an avid sportfishing enthusiast, 

is trying to snag some trout but has so far 

been unlucky all morning. His friends are 

whipping up breakfast, and I’m reminded 

that we left our picnic back in the car as 

the package was too heavy to haul up. I do 

not even like tea, but when we’re offered a 

cuppa, I happily oblige. 

The rest of the morning is spent marvelling 

at the lake and taking photos and videos 

of the scenery, after which our new friends 

generously drive us back to the car and 

help us manoeuvre it out of the rut. When 

we learn that there is a 100ft high waterfall 

called Nithi around, we decide that it won’t 

hurt to make a short detour. 

WHERE WE STAYED 

MERU MT KENYA BANDAS Commonly known 

as Chogoria Bandas, this spot is run by the Kenya 

Wildlife Service. We were unable to make a booking 

beforehand as the staff are hard to reach given the 

network situation, but we easily found some rooms on 

arrival. The cabins are all painted black with a coat 

of green around the shutters, and accommodation is 

Ksh 1,500 per person. The rooms are basic with three 

dorm-style beds inside, and we also had to pay Ksh 

600 extra for the gas cooker. 

There is no electricity, but paraffin lamps are offered 

and I get my electronics charged at the Chogoria gate 

which is actually a walking distance away (I however 

get strict warning not to walk there alone at night as 

this is still the wilderness). Utensils can be offered on 

request at no extra cost, and there is a small shop with 

limited goods such as beer. It’s a lovely spot to stay 

particularly as there aren’t many options around, but 

expect only the very basic of necessities and service. 


TIPS 

• KWS don’t accept cash at the gate. Luckily, they told 

us exactly where to stand to get network and we were 

therefore able to pay with MPESA, otherwise, we would 

have had to drive back down to be able to complete 

the transaction. 

• It is ridiculously cold. Carry warm clothing, including 

gloves and a beanie. Jeans, as it turns out, don't have 

good heat retention- I learnt that the hard way. 

• If you love fishing, carry a rod as Lake Ellis is a haven 

for rainbow trout. 

• Camping is available, so plan accordingly. You will 

have to be self-sufficient and carry everything you need 

including firewood. 

• The drive up to Lake Ellis requires nothing short of a 

4X4. You can however also walk there and we were 

told that this would take about 2 hours, but to me that 

seems only plausible if you’re actually sprinting. 

• Carry water bottles; single use plastics are banned in 

Kenya’s national parks and game reserves. 


HIKING THE 

UNDERDOG 

During Martyn Pollock’s three-day climb up Mt Elgon to see Kitum Cave and 

summit Koitobos Peak, he only meets one other tourist-and-guide combo. 

It may get far less visitors than its more popular counterparts in Kenya and 

Uganda, but this mountain’s charm is certainly not lost on the writer. 

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTYN POLLOCK 


FEATURE 

Gusii lands disappear 

behind me and with the 

Nandi Hills of Kisumu in 

sight, my Nissan Note 

powers up through the Rift 

Valley towards Kitale. She 

doesn’t complain until the 

last 20km of murram road 

where bottoming out becomes a constant 

affair on every pot hole, bump and rock. 

But, rental cars can go anywhere. They have 

special powers of driver indifference that you 

do not get with a regular vehicle. 

Mount Elgon, like most other large 

mountains in East Africa, is an extinct 

volcano, formed over 20 million years ago 

as the earth spewed molten rock over an 

area 80km in diameter. Straddling both 

Uganda and Kenya you have the option 

of several approaches to reach the many 

summits. I’ve chosen Kitale on the Kenyan 

side to start my journey. 

My guide David is late. Despite having 

phoned me the night before insisting I arrive 

by 7:30am, he rocks up at 8:40am with no 

explanation. After the standard formalities 

we are on our way walking through thick 

ancient forest with an abundance of zebras, 

bushbucks, waterbucks, dik-diks, baboons 

and colobus monkeys. At this stage it is 

more of a safari than a mountain climb 

and I begin to see the charm that sets this 

mountain apart from other climbs in the 

region. 

The mountain massif is particularly famous 

for its abundance of large caves, and Kitum 

Cave is the biggest on the Kenyan side 

stretching over 160m into the mountainside. I 

always forget how much I dislike caving, until 

someone takes me caving. Especially when 

it is prefixed with “follow me” and I think we 

are going a further 10ft into the cave to see 

something interesting, when in actual fact, 

what follows is a 20 minute subterranean 

cave tour in complete darkness with nothing 

but David’s phone to light the way. He 

points the light towards the cave ceiling and 

thousands of bats descend, rushing past our 

faces but never touching. Claustrophobia 

aside, the caves are an amazing spectacle: 

the entrance is like a huge opera house and 

there is clear evidence that tourists like me 

are only one of many visitors. As well as 

most of the antelope species on the mountain 

and some of the cats, an unlikely group of 

visitors are the elephants who come here to 

scrape and lick the salt off the cave walls 

in the hours of complete darkness, using 

nothing but smell and intuition to guide them 

into the depths. 

A note of caution: post trip I learned that 

Mt Elgon and specifically the bats that live 

in the mountain’s many caves are associated 

with a strain of the Ebola virus. There have 

been no confirmed deaths due to cave visits 

since the 1980s, but as a precaution the 

WHO suggests avoiding the bat colonies, 

and if you do need to get close, to wear 

gloves and a face mask. Sadly you won’t get 

such advice or guidance from your guide or 

even from the park authorities, so best to be 

prepared. 

Situated far from the main tourist 

attractions of both Kenya and Uganda, 

Mount Elgon gets far fewer visitors than 

Mount Kenya, the Aberdares or even the 

Rwenzori. During my climb, it seemed 

practically deserted. I only met one other 

tourist and guide combo in the three-day trip. 

There are the same lobelias as well as thick 

forest and bamboo sections that you find in 

other African highlands, but what struck me 

most were the fields of lavender that cover 

the mountainside giving an omnipresent 

sweet floral aroma. 

David convinces me to skip out a day 

of the trip by going straight from the gate 

to camp two. It makes for a more intense 

climb, but also means we will not be too idle 

at each stop. This is good as the campsites 

are basic: a cleared area and a rock circle 

for a fire and that’s about it. Don’t expect 

huts with bunk beds and three course meals 

being served to you after a hard day’s 

walk. Pretty quickly we are in a rhythm and 

any guide/client relationship is out of the 

window. I build the tent while he builds the 

fire, he gets more wood while I cook and so 

on. With huge downpours of rain coming 

daily, working together is the only way we 

can ensure we get everything done before 

the inevitable soaking. I really should stop 

climbing during the long rains, but I rarely 

get to choose when I am free. 

Lunch time on day two we reach the 

summit of Koitobos peak. From the campsite 

it is a really quite pleasant 6km walk with 

several other peaks in view throughout. The 

last 200m is a scramble through a rupture in 

the solid Basalt column. From the summit the 

full extent of the massive caldera is visible, 

one of the largest in Africa with several 

distinct peaks on both sides of the border. 

Koitobos is the third highest overall and 

second highest in Kenya, but for me this is 

largely immaterial. There is no triumphant 

moment of conquest, of man vs mountain. 

It is a cliché to say, but the joy is in the 

journey. Losing yourself in the isolation of 

the natural world where nothing matters 

except staying dry and staying hydrated. All 

of life’s normal worries and responsibilities 

melt away into insignificance. This is the true 

beauty of climbing. 


THE RHINOS FLYING 

TO BOTSWANA 

Sophie Ibbotson writes 

about Rhinos Without 

Borders, a project which 

aims to move 100 rhinos 

from poaching hotspots in 

South Africa to new safe 

homelands in Botswana’s 

Okavango Delta. 

PHOTOGRAPDHS: DAVID MURRAY, 

SOPHIE IBBOTSON 


CONSERVATION 

Akudu blocked the path to 

my tent. I looked across the 

channel from my deck at a 

giraffe sauntering by. And 

when I drove out in the late 

afternoon, the heat of the 

sun still burning, I envied 

the shaggy maned lion chilling out in the 

shade beneath a tree. The Gomoti Plains, a 

private concession to the east of the Moremi 

Game Reserve in Botswana’s Okavango 

Delta, is remote and challenging to reach, 

but in the absence of many humans, the 

wildlife populations thrive. 

What I had not expected to find, even 

here in this southern African Eden, was 

a rhino. It was a species I previously 

associated only with zoos, or occasionally 

staring out at me forlornly from the pages 

of National Geographic beside an article 

talking about their imminent extinction. Rare 

and precious, it hadn’t even occurred to me 

that I might drive out one evening and be 

confronted with a fully grown white rhino. 

But there he was, munching away on the 

grass, completely ignoring my presence. I 

struggled to stifle my shrieks of excitement 

and was grinning from ear to ear watching 

his every move, entranced. 

The world’s rhino numbers have been 

decimated in the past 100 years. It is 

estimated that a rhino is killed every eight 

hours, and that South Africa alone has lost 

7,130 rhinos since 2008. More rhinos are 

lost to poaching than are born, and most 

countries lack the resources to fight back 

against the illegal trade in rhino horn which 

drives the killing. 

Botswana, however, offers a beacon 

of light for rhinos and other big game: it 

has more elephants than any other country 

in the world, for example. Though recent 

changes in hunting laws may be a cause 

for concern, as a rule, Botswana has a 

no tolerance approach to poaching. In 

the national reserves, anyone carrying a 

gun is a legitimate target for the wildlife 

rangers. This, combined with the low human 

population density, the proper resourcing of 

wildlife rangers (supported where necessary 

by troops) and constant monitoring of big 

game has ensured that Botswana is arguably 

the safest place on the planet to be a rhino 

right now. 

This is all well and good if you happen 

to be a rhino born in Botswana, but what 

about rhinos living elsewhere? It is not as 

though they know to walk across a continent 

to this safe haven, or would be able to do 

so unharmed. Thankfully, Rhinos Without 

Borders is managing the logistics on the 

rhinos’ behalf, and in doing so might well 

save the species from oblivion. 

Rhinos Without Borders - a joint project 

between &Beyond and Great Plains 

Conservation - aims to move 100 rhinos from 

poaching hotspots in South Africa to new, 

safe homelands in Botswana’s Okavango 

Delta. Some 77 rhinos have already 

made the journey and it was one of these 

fortunate emigres that I met during my stay 

at Gomoti Plains Camp. 

Translocating a rhino is no mean feat. 

You cannot simply put it into the back of 

a van and drive it along the road. (And 

remember: there are a hundred rhinos to 

move!). Every rhino had to be tranquilised 

and airlifted to safety, with a heavily armed 

guard to protect them whilst in transit. Flying 

reduced the journey time and risk of ambush 

while cutting down the amount of stress the 

rhinos had to endure so that they were more 

likely to settle in well when they arrived. 

As you can imagine, flying a rhino 

anywhere doesn’t come cheap. Rhinos 

Without Borders estimate that it costs 

$45,000 to relocate each rhino and to 

secure it in Botswana, requiring a total 

budget of $4.5 million. Such funds couldn’t 

be raised overnight, and the translocation 

process also took time to refine. In the first 

three years, 37 rhinos steadily made the 

move and then the pace accelerated and 

40 more were translocated in a three week 

period in 2018. 

The work can’t stop once rhinos arrive 

in Botswana. They need time to acclimatise 

to their new surroundings, find out where 

to graze and recover from the shock and 

stress of the journey. Rhinos Without Borders 

commissioned purpose built steel bomas for 

their charges so that they could be closely 

monitored and then released once vets and 

conservationists were happy the animals 

were in good condition. Every rhino has a 

specially designed telemetry device so it 

can be tracked for research and security 

purposes; even in Botswana, no one is 

taking any chances. 

Rhinos Without Borders have released 

the rhinos at multiple locations across 

Botswana, in both national parks and 

private game concessions. The chosen 

locations were kept secret during the move, 

but once released, the rhinos were free to 

roam. 

A few days after my initial rhino sighting 

at Gomoti Plains, I was treated to an 

encounter with a mother rhino and her 

calf heading down to the river bank at Rra 

Dinare. Unlike the elephants, which stick 

together in huge herds, the rhinos seem to 

be much less sociable creatures. If these 

pair did have a guard (which many of the 

rhinos understandably do), he was well 

hidden, camouflaged amongst the bushes 

and grasses. It felt as though it was just me, 

the guide and two of the most precious, 

spectacular mammals on earth. 

Sophie Ibbotson is the author of five 

Bradt Travel Guides, including the first 

guidebook to South Sudan. She travelled 

to Botswana with wildlife and wilderness 

specialists Africa Exclusive. 


ADVENTURE 

ROW ROW ROW 

YOUR KAYAK 

Whitewater kayaking is one of those 

experiences that seems to be on everyone’s 

bucket list but it’s one of the more difficult 

adventure sports to actually get out and try. 

For kayaking guide Robbie Mingay, it’s just 

another day in Jinja, Uganda. 

Ifirst travelled to Uganda for what was supposed to 

be six weeks of kayaking the Nile’s famous rapids. 

Little did I know that six weeks would soon stretch 

to three months, then to a year, and on to another. 

It’s not an uncommon story; kayakers from all over 

the world have travelled to Uganda and many have 

stayed for far longer than they ever could have 

anticipated. One of the reasons I have stayed this long is 

because I’ve been fortunate enough to work as a whitewater 

kayaking guide for Kayak the Nile based in Jinja, Uganda. It’s 

a wonderful place to teach others how to do what I love, and 

the reasons I enjoy working here are the same ones that make 

it a wonderful place to learn to kayak. 

As a beginner, your first river can make a huge difference 

in how much you enjoy yourself. This is what makes Uganda’s 

White Nile so special. It has the unbeatable combination of 

being deep and warm, with great rapids. Because kayaking 

is such a niche sport, most of my clients are usually first timers. 

The introduction classes are always a favourite to teach. To 

take your own knowledge and pass it on to someone else is 

both challenging and rewarding. Everyone learns in different 

ways; some people like to hear instructions while others need 

to see something to understand, and this makes every lesson 

different. 

And so we get out on the water and paddle down the 

river giving them a chance to see a side of Uganda that 

they usually haven’t experienced before. We pass fishermen 

carefully tending to their traps and casting their nets, villagers 

doing their washing on the river banks and beautiful areas of 

dense indigenous vegetation which are home to countless bird 

species. As we glide down the Nile, it’s usually not uncommon 

to hear the familiar, laugh-like call of a pair of fish eagles 

perched high up in the tree-tops. 

When we approach the first rapid of the day, the first thing 

you notice is the sound. Initially, it’s faint, a barely perceptible 

white noise somewhere in the distance, but as you draw 

closer, it begins to amplify. Every paddle stroke propels you 

closer to the source of that sound and it is in this moment that 

one of my favourite parts of the day occurs. We approach our 

first rapid called ‘Jaws’, and that faint white noise begins to 

creep into the forefront of guest’s consciousness as they realize 

what that sound actually is. 

How people react to that realization is a great part of my 

day. You can see them mentally shift gears depending on 

how they feel about the approaching challenge. For some, 

the excitement overrides their nervousness and it’s full-steam 

ahead. Others shift to neutral; more questions are asked, more 

hypothetical scenarios are talked through and, eventually, we 

go. Some switch to reverse but it’s only temporary as in the 

end, the draw of the rapid is too much to resist. People crave 

unique experiences and running a rapid in a kayak on the 

Nile is as thrilling as it gets. 

As for the rapids themselves – they are big, with large 

powerful waves, swirling currents and fast-moving water. 

Despite that, they are remarkably safe and many are not too 

difficult to navigate. With the skills we teach on someone’s 

first ever day kayaking, many beginners make it down some 

of the rapids without capsizing. Those that do capsize end up 

swimming down the rapid which, in the Nile’s warm water, 

can be just as fun as paddling them. 

Whitewater kayaking is one of those experiences that 

seems to be on everyone’s bucket list but it’s one of the more 

difficult adventure sports to actually get out and try. Travellers 

visiting Jinja should be excited by the wonderful opportunity 

they have to try whitewater kayaking on such an incredible 

river. 

For more information on kayaking the Nile River in Jinja, 

check out kayakthenile.com 


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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 45 

oo Camp.indd 1 16/07/2019 16:2

DISPATCH 

COMOROS: 

AFRICA’S 

FORGOTTEN 

ARCHIPELAGO 

Floating between 

Mozambique and 

Madagascar lie a number of 

volcanic islands, tropical in 

climate, unspoiled in nature 

and positively wild: this is 

Comoros, the romantically 

named Islands of the Moon. 

Maurice Schutgens paints a 

perfect picture with these 

five activities that should be 

on your bucket list: 

1. EXPLORING MORONI 

Set in the shadow of Mount Karthala, with 

a name that roughly translates to “in the 

heart of the fire”, Moroni is the capital city 

of Comoros, home to an eclectic mix of 

Arabic, French and Swahili cultures. Moroni 

is loud, somewhat gritty and possibly ever 

so slightly chaotic. My overloaded taxi, 

blaring the latest hip-hop tracks, drops 

me off at the famous Volo Volo Market at 

the heart of the city. From the get-go it’s a 

sensory overload. I’m offered ripe produce 

from the flanks of Mount Karthala, freshly 

caught tunas and tasteful local fabrics worn 

by Chiromani – Comorian women. Vanilla 

aromas hang heavy in the air. I head for the 

serenity of the medina awash with intricate 

Arabic architecture and beautifully carved 

Zanzibar doors, a fading reminder of former 

glory. I wind my way aimlessly through the 

deserted maze of narrow streets striking up 

conversations with local Comorians about 

everything and nothing. Finally I move along, 

heading for Moroni’s most iconic landmark 

in the harbour: the Ancienne Mosquee du 

Vendredi (Friday Mosque) dating back to 

1427. As the sun sets, I people watch, my 

legs swinging over the embankment. It’s a 

mesmerizing place. 

2. SCALING MOUNT KARTHALA 

Mount Karthala looms large over the 

southern half of Grand Comore, its imposing 

presence a constant reminder of the fury that 

bubbles just below the surface. The crater 

rim, located at just under 2,400m, appears 

permanently lost in the equatorial clouds. 

Karthala is one of the most active volcanoes 

on earth and the opportunity to look down 

into its crater irresistible! I leave my hotel at 

3:00am In the cool of the night. As the sun 

crests the horizon the landscape changes, 

we leave the equatorial forest behind and 

head up into a wild tundra like landscape 

characterized by stunted trees, giant heather 

plants and remnants of ancient lava flows. 

Upwards we go, sweating profusely though 

it's only 6:00am. Three hours later we crawl 

onto the crater rim. I am absolutely battered 

but the pain is temporarily forgotten for the 

views are breathtaking. Ahead of us lies the 

colossal moonscape of Karthala’s caldera. 

We descend into it and cross the soft grey 

fields of ash till we stand on the rim of the 

new crater. 


DISPATCH 

3. SCUBA DIVING IN MOHÉLI MARINE PARK 

Mohéli Marine Park, established in 2001 as 

the first National Park of Comoros, is home 

to some of the healthiest coral still thriving 

in the Indian Ocean. Its location directly 

in the path of the warm and nutrient rich 

Mozambique channel, means that the islands 

are teeming with marine life from humpback 

whales and dugongs to giant manta 

rays. Through a powerful deluge, my taxi 

circumnavigates the island to the diminutive 

and laid-back village of Nioumachoua, 

home to Laka Lodge – an oasis of calm and 

the gateway to the islands of Mohéli Marine 

Park. Richard – the resident Slovakian Dive 

Master, takes me to his favourite diving 

spots. We start with a 15-minute traverse 

over to Leprosy Island (yes you read that 

right). The water is startlingly clear as we 

watch the rays of sunlight pierce far into 

the depths. We strap on our tanks, take a 

healthy breath and roll back dropping down 

quickly to coral outcrops beneath, teeming 

with a staggering variety of fish. The hours 

spent underwater are over in a flash. 

4. GREEN TURTLE NESTING ON 

ITSAMIA BEACH 

On Mohéli Island lies an isolated fishing 

village by the name of Itsamia. It is here 

that Green sea turtles have found a safe 

refuge to come and nest year-round. Up 

until about 20 years ago sea turtles were 

commonly killed for meat and the population 

was in serious decline. The villagers put a 

stop to this and their conservation work has 

yielded dramatic results. Today more than 

a million turtles hatch on Itsamia’s beaches 

every year, transforming it into the second 

largest nesting site for the species in the 

Indian Ocean. Late at night we head out 

on a nocturnal patrol with one of the local 

eco-guards. Under a billions of stars we 

head to the village’s main beach looking 

for the tell-tale drag markings - It doesn’t 

take long before we spot one. We watch 

her lay her clutch of eggs then slowly return 

to the depths of the ocean. It is a humbling 

experience to share with her. 

5. DISCOVERING GRAND COMORE’S 

UNIQUE SIGHTS 

Grand Comore, known locally as Ngazidja, 

is the largest island of the archipelago with 

many sights worth seeing. I hire a barely 

roadworthy vehicle and head south, out of 

Moroni soon coming upon the village of 

Iconi, home to the impressive 16th century 

ruins of the Palais de Kaviridjeo where the 

mighty Sultan of Bambao once ruled and 

where Malagasy pirates plied their trade. 

I continue my journey further south passing 

Sangani, a small village partly destroyed by 

one of Karthala’s mighty eruptions in recent 

times. The north of Grand Comore is a barren 

expanse of stark beauty and jagged rocks. 

I head towards the town of Mitsamiouli, 

where Maloudja, a stunning palm tree lined 

beach awaits. I ditch my car and walk along 

several secluded bays that lead to the Trou 

de Phrophete (Prophets Hole) where Prophet 

Mohammed is rumored to have sought refuge 

from pirates. The water is crystal clear – perfect 

for a swim. I push on to Lac Sal, a stunning little 

coastal crater of deep green water, the locals 

claim it is bottomless. The walk along its rim is 

as hair-raising as it is spectacular. 


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SANDSTORM: WHAT I PACK 

Tan Moshi 

Ksh15,900 

Anyiko Owoko is a Music Publicist, Journalist and 

travel enthusiast. She just got back from Lagos 

then went to Diani Beach shortly after. These 

were her travel essentials on those trips. 

Instagram: @anyikowoko 

GARNIER MICELLAR OIL-INFUSED CLEANSING WATER 

I get the smallest bottle which usually lasts about two weeks. It works 

as both a cleanser and make-up remover so I get to save space while 

packing. I also don’t have to wash my face again after using it. 

BOSE SPEAKER 

Small but powerful. I’ve been using this when getting ready in the morning 

or preparing for bed in the evening. When people come to hang out on 

the balcony of my room for drinks, for instance, we can just play some 

music and have a good time. 

CANON 5D MARK III 

I might need to record myself at an event or might be interviewing a 

celebrity and so this always comes in handy for my work. 

ADELE DEJAK JEWELLERY 

I have a collection of earrings, chockers, rings and bracelets. They are 

gold and made of brass, and I love that they are bold. In Lagos, for 

instance, people kept asking who I was wearing so that’s always a good 

ice breaker in a social gathering. I sometimes pair them with my Maasai 

jewellery. 

H&M ONE PIECE SWIMSUIT 

It comes in my favourite colour. It’s also very stylish and I actually wore it 

like a top, with pants and a jacket. I recently saw Victoria Kimani wear it 

like that as well and immediately identified it. 

WAZIWAZI BAG 

It is stylish, made from cowhide, is very spacious and even has a 

compartment for my laptop, and this is also an authentic Kenyan brand. 

What’s not to love? 

IPHONE AND POWER BANK 

I carry two phones so one will still have my Kenyan sim while the other 

will carry a local line in a new country. This is to ensure I’m online 

always, can take enough photos and videos of the trip and gather all the 

content I need on the road. Chances are I might never do that activity 

ever again and the last thing I want is to be offline for prolonged periods 

of time. 


NAIROBI: The Hub, Junction, Sarit Centre, Village Market, Yaya Centre, Westgate 

www.sandstormkenya.com 


SHEPHERD'S 

HUT NANYUKI 

Inspired by vintage British horsedrawn 

caravans of yesteryear, 

these huts in Nanyuki are 

certainly one of a kind. 

PHOTOGRAPDHS: BRIAN SIAMBI 


SPOTLIGHT 

Finally, the Nomad team arrives in 

Nanyuki after a couple of days 

up in the mountains. To electricity 

and hot showers and KFC, which 

is actually our first stop in town. 

Nothing short of fast food will suffice! For supper 

later that evening, we swing by Little Barney’s at 

One Stop for some takeaway pizza before being 

shown to our cottages, Bramble and Oak, which 

are actually only a stone’s throw away. 

Similar in design, these stylish and quirky huts 

are traditional shepherd’s wagons that were used 

during lambing season in the UK from the 15th 

to the 20th century. Raised and with extended 

wooden front porches, they actually even have 

the standard wheels at the bottom and would 

therefore be mobile should they ever need to be 

moved. Nestled in a garden, an outdoor lounging 

area leads to the main door which opens to an 

intimate space with one double bed, a single bed 

and kitchen area where you’re more likely to easily 

whip up coffee with toast than cook a full meal for 

dinner. It includes a fridge, kettle, tea bags, instant 

coffee and enough glasses to invite a handful of 

friends over for a quick sundowner, possibly out on 

the verandah while taking in the views of Mt Kenya 

on a clear day. 

My hut could comfortably sleep three. The 

space looks bigger than it actually is thanks to 

the spotless all-white coat of paint within as well 

as the large glass windows and doors which 

let in maximum light. The eco-friendly toilet and 

bathrooms are private, solar-heated, set right 

outside the room and intentionally designed to 

create a rustic African “mabati chic” feel. 

Unique in the country thanks to being inspired 

by vintage British traveller horse-drawn caravans 

of yesteryear, Shepherd’s Hut is set opposite the 

Nanyuki airstrip and thanks to its location at One 

Stop Nanyuki, you can find an array of facilities 

and services ranging from a farm shop and hair 

salon to a vet’s office right within the premises. 

Accommodation starts at Ksh 5,000 per person. 

A safari tent with one king size bed and two 

singles is available, and if you have tents, you 

can camp here for only Ksh 500. A swimming 

pool is currently under construction, and there is 

also a wooden three-bedroomed house said to be 

over 100 years old that was recently transported 

to Nanyuki from its previous location in Nairobi. 

For its age, it is surprisingly still very intact, and 

is being restored exactly as it was with very little 

reinforcements, and it will likely be ready for 

bookings by the beginning of August. Once the 

decor is completed, likely in a similar simple, 

stylish, airy and tasteful manner as the huts, it will 

certainly be one of the most charming places to 

stay in town. 

www.onestopnanyuki.com 


ELEWANA 

MOMENTS 

ELEWANA KIFARU HOUSE 

A visit to Elewana Kifaru House is to plunge 

into the timeless tranquility of Africa. Located 

within the world-famous Lewa Conservancy, 

home to East Africa’s healthiest black and 

white rhino populations, this bijou property, 

appropriately takes its name from the Swahili 

word for rhino. 

A haven of luxury in the bush, you will 

immediately feel at home on arrival, warmly 

welcomed by the friendly and attentive staff. 

The comfortable sitting room with wellstocked 

bar and elegant dining area extend 

out to a large, comfortably furnished terrace. 

Here, you can enjoy a sunny breakfast al 

fresco and watch the busy goings-on at the 

waterhole below, or you can choose to relax 

by the picturesque infinity pool and enjoy the 

magnificent views over the distant plains. 

The property luxuriates in total exclusivity 

with five charming thatched cottages tucked 

away in an oasis of vibrant lawns filled with 

birdsong. All have well-appointed bedrooms 

with sumptuous four-poster beds and 

generous en-suite bathrooms. 

With an excellent library and log fires in 

the lounge and dining rooms, you can truly 

sink into delicious, cozy comfort during the 

cool evenings and luxuriate in the peace and 

serenity of the African night. 

ELEWANA LEWA SAFARI CAMP 

Sprawling over the rolling plains north 

of Mt Kenya, Lewa is a prolific wildlife 

conservancy that is popular with celebrities, 

conservationists, writers and photographers. 

Lewa has in recent times found media 

attention with stories of a royal romance and 

the fairytale engagement that followed. 

Visitors to Lewa are privy to some of the 

most spectacular wildlife viewing that Kenya 

has to offer: lion, leopard and jackal thrive 

on the rich diversity of prey that inhabits the 

area. The Wildlife Conservancy is home to 

the largest concentration of Grevy’s zebra in 

the world, and its range of habitats attracts 

diverse birdlife and hosts over 130 black 

and white rhino. 

Featuring large tented bedrooms with 

verandahs and full en-suite bathrooms, the 


NOMAD PARTNERSHIPS 

camp offers authentic comfort for its visitors; 

cozy log fires in the sitting room are perfect 

for relaxing after a day in the conservancy. 

This unique and exclusive retreat offers 

privileged access to 65,000 acres of private 

protected wilderness. 

Underpinning the glamorous magnetism 

of Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a serious 

mission: a pioneering and pragmatic 

approach to conservation, founded in the 

1970’s, that has developed into a thriving 

and globally recognised rhino conservation 

habitat. 

Profits and conservancy fees generated 

by the camp are reinvested directly into 

the conservation and community efforts of 

Elewana Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. 

THE LOCATION 

Lewa covers 65,000 acres, a vast 

wilderness. It has dramatic views to the 

south of snow capped Mt. Kenya, and to the 

north down to the arid lands of Tassia and 

Il Ngwesi. It has many diverse habitats from 

pristine forest, fertile grasslands, extensive 

springs and acacia woodland. 

Registered as a rhino conservancy in 

1983, the conservancy is famous for its 

successful rhino and Grevy zebra breeding, 

two endangered species; Lewa is home to 

10% of Kenya’s rhino, and 20% of the worlds 

population of Grevy zebra. The whole 

conservancy is fenced, and the conservancy 

employs over 150 rangers. The conservancy 

does extensive outreach work into the 

surrounding communities with its Community 

Development Program, including healthcare, 

education, micro-finance, and water projects 

– in order to share with the community the 

benefits of wildlife. 

With over 70 recorded mammal species 

within the conservancy, for you, the wildlife 

experience is unrivalled. 

Elewana Collection manages Elewana Lewa 

Safari Camp and Elewana Kifaru House on 

behalf of Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. 

www.elewanacollection.com 


LAST WORD 

LAGOS 

WOES 

By Karanja Nzisa 

A 

mongst my abundance of 

catastrophes at airports, 

one incident in Nigeria so 

shook me that I may have 

slipped into a temporary 

mania. Standing at 

an ATM machine that 

wouldn’t dispense any cash, I wept and 

cackled, then wept and cackled in repeat. 

I can’t say for sure how long this went on, 

but I remember pulling myself together when 

a stranger yanked at my elbow and said 

something I couldn’t comprehend. 

The day had begun without a single 

ominous sign. As a participant in a twoweek 

workshop, I attended all the scheduled 

sessions that Friday before tearing out of the 

facility and into an awaiting taxi bound for 

the ill-famed MMIA (Murtala Muhammed 

International Airport). See I had to leave 

Lagos mid-stay to attend to an urgent matter, 

and had bought a round trip ticket to fly 

home for the weekend and get back to Lagos 

on Sunday in less than 48 hours (oh the 

follies of hope). 

Off to the airport I went, feeling happy 

with myself as I had only hand luggage 

and just barely missed the traffic snarl 

up for which Lagos has earned a ghastly 

reputation. Cruising the Third Mainland 

Bridge that joins Lagos Island to the 

mainland, our jalopy jerked violently a few 

times before coming to a silent and rather 

final halt at about the same time my heart 

sunk to the bottom of my gut. After a half 

hour of waving down speeding motorists 

with the flashlight on my phone to avoid 

my imminent death while the driver fiddled 

with bolts and cables under the bonnet, the 

damned tin box sputtered back to life and 

we went on with our journey. We hadn’t 

gone far at all before arriving at the scene of 

a horrific accident and had to wait nearly an 

hour while the raging fire that had engulfed 

a luckless danfo bus was put out. 

When I arrived at MMIA, my flight hadn’t 

left. Rather, our aircraft hadn’t even arrived. 

Thanking whatever gods might have been 

working in my favour, I marched confidently 

to the check-in counter from whence the 

second part in the terrible drama that 

was my night unfolded. The airline official 

scrutinised my passport with a scowl, tapped 

her knobby fingers on her keyboard, looked 

at me sadly and said in that dulcet Nigerian 

lilt, “I’m sorry SAH your ticket isn’t in the 

system.” Snorting, I read her my booking 

reference number, told her she was speaking 

nonsense and requested that she check 

again. Five minutes and no ticket later, a 

queue of grumbling passengers was forming 

quickly behind me and I was grinding my 

teeth in exasperation. 

As it turns out, my travel agent had made 

a reservation which because of a technical 

glitch, never made it on the other side of 

the ticketing queue, which meant no ticket 

number had been issued, which also meant 

- as I discovered sitting in the airline Station 

Manager’s musty office- that I couldn’t get 

on the flight. The matronly manager made 

dozens of futile calls to Nairobi. Realising 

the window of opportunity was closing fast 

on me, she advised that I bring forward 

my original departure ticket and pay the 

negligible change fee. “Should be easy,” 

she said, guiding me to the Flying Blue 

office as that original ticket was an award 

ticket bought with my accrued flying miles 

and could only be modified there. 

I didn’t have enough cash so I happily 

handed my bankcard over. “Declined”. 

Second try. “Declined”. Substitute card. 

“Declined”. Mad dash to the ATM 

machine. “Please contact your bank”. 

Meltdown. 

I later discovered that I should have 

given official notice to my bank that I 

would be travelling to a country marked 

for ‘fraudulent activity’. 

Back in that dreary office, the darling 

lady offered her regrets and informed me 

it was way past closing time and there 

was nothing more she could do. Then she 

left and with her, all my fortitude. The gods 

were not asleep however, and my partner 

had made a call from Nairobi to the 

Flying Blue office in Amsterdam, pleaded 

my case and asked to make the payment 

over the phone, which they allowed. 

Zooming through the night skies 

towards Nairobi with the trace of dried 

tears on my face, I replayed the events of 

that evening in my head, took down some 

notes and made a promise to myself that 

one day I would write about my ordeal. 

SKETCH: MOVIN WERE 



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