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DESTINATION: DOMINICA
09
ITS ACCOMMODATION SCENE IS DIVERSE
From rustic wooden forest cabins to full-service luxury eco-retreats, Dominica has
a wide range of accommodation options, spread all around the island. There are places to
suit all budgets – you can spend anything between US$50 and $1,500 a night here. Longestablished
and much-loved hotels and guesthouses are now increasingly being joined by
new lodges, retreats and boutique hotels such as Jungle Bay, Secret Bay and the Kempinski
Cabrits Resort – all new or revamped in 2019.
10IT’S A NATURAL CHOICE
FOR ADVENTURE
TOURISM
More and more people are seeking
adventurous holidays – and Dominica
is ready and waiting. Its terrain lends
itself perfectly to activities such as
canyoning with a certified operator
such as Extreme Dominica. Once
geared-up and trained, you rappel
down a series of waterfalls in a deep
river gorge in the company of two
expert guides. The journey is an
adventure, and the river canyon is
beautiful. For beginners, the journey
ends in the gorgeous Cathedral
Canyon; more advanced canyoneers
continue downriver and rappel to the
bottom of the Trafalgar Falls.
11
ITS HERITAGE
REMAINS BEGUILING
Dominica’s history and associated
heritage can be traced back through
time with the help of colonial-era sites
such as the 18th-century plantation
house of Bois Cotlette or the partially
restored fortifications of Fort Shirley
Garrison in Cabrits National Park. The
woodland trails around Cabrits reveal
forest-covered garrison ruins and silent
cannons, and the restored buildings
of Fort Shirley offer a fascinating
glimpse into the island’s colonial
past as well as fabulous views across
Prince Rupert Bay to the mountains
of the interior. Many of the island’s
sugar factories are now abandoned to
nature, but travellers can still see good
examples of factory ruins, complete
with waterwheels, at places such as
Hampstead, Geneva, Belfast, the Old
Mill Cultural Centre and Bagatelle.
Despite the impact of hurricanes, the
Botanic Gardens at Roseau, established
in the 1890s, is a national treasure. It
is a beautiful open space that was once
a living museum of domestic and
exotic plants and trees, ponds,
walkways and ornate buildings.
12
ITS ART SCENE
IS THRIVING
Dominica has a very healthy art scene,
with established painters such as Earl
Etienne and Ellingworth Moses now
being joined by a new generation
collaborating as the Waitukubuli Artist
Association (WAA). Exhibitions are
held regularly at the Old Mill Cultural
Centre and other venues around
the island, and WAA has also been
instrumental in the introduction of
colourful, imaginative and themed
street art. Less in the limelight, yet
equally impressive, are the artistic
works of expat artists who have made
their home in and are inspired by
Dominica. DOMFESTA in May offers
the chance to check out Dominica’s art
and film festivals. For a truly original
perspective on Hurricane Maria, seek
out the independent film Uncivilized,
by Michael Lees.
13
IT HAS ONE OF THE MOST
AUTHENTIC SMALL-
ISLAND CARNIVALS
Often referred to as the Real Mas,
Dominica’s Carnival parades are
vibrant, offbeat and fun. Although
small parades take place in some of
the villages around the island, the
main event is in the capital, Roseau,
beginning in the early
hours of Monday
morning with the
bacchanal of J’Ouvert,
the traditional opening
of Carnival. The
celebrations continue
throughout the Monday
and Tuesday before Ash
Wednesday, with traditional costume
displays, contemporary and artistic
costume parades, and the heaving
tee-shirt bands and live music floats.
On Wednesday, in the Kalinago village
of Bataca, the spirit of Carnival is laid
to rest during Tewe Vaval, a heartstopping
festival of fire. Catch it on
24-25 February 2020.
14
IT HAS COUNTLESS
RIVERS AND WATERFALLS
Here’s a new year’s resolution for you:
try to count the rivers on Dominica!
No one really knows how many
there are; locals like to say 365 – one
for every day of the year. Whatever
the actual number, it is likely to
be high. And since the island is so
mountainous, many of these rivers,
on their journey to the sea, have
spectacular waterfalls and cascades,
many of which can be accessed via
hiking trails or even short paths. How
many countries do you know that can
boast rainforest and twin waterfalls
within a 15-minute drive of the capital?
Notable waterfalls to visit (and splash
under) include Trafalgar, Victoria,
Middleham, Sari Sari and the Emerald
Pool. There are even waterfalls that
tumble from coastal cliffs into
the sea.
HOW
MANY
COUNTRIES
DO YOU KNOW
THAT CAN BOAST
RAINFOREST AND
TWIN WATERFALLS
WITHIN A 15-MINUTE
DRIVE OF THE
CAPITAL?
e
a
c
b
d
a. Join Moses James
to learn about
Rasta culture
b. Canyoning is a
thrilling way to
explore Dominica’s
beautiful gorges
c. Kempinski Cabrits
Resort & Spa is
one of several new
places to stay
d. Join Dominica’s
authentic Carnival
e. Admire the
thriving arts scene
e. Discover the
island’s heritage at
historic sites such as
Fort Shirley Garrison
f
PAUL CRASK; DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY; AARON HAMILTON ART/WAA
42 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN www.liat.com | January - February 2020