FETE FUNNot sure which Frenchflavouredplace to pick?Here’s your guide to partyingon three different islands54 | ZiNG CARIBBEANwww.liat.com | January - February 2020
Left:Beauty and the beast – revellersin Martinique don masks that areboth macabre and marvellousMARTINIQUEUSP: CARNIVAL TAKEN TO THE NEXT LEVEL!It is barely January when the Carnivalbuzz starts in Martinique, building inmomentum over the course of severalwild weeks, with the island’s west coastcapital, Fort-de-France, the centre ofthe celebrations. The explosion ofexcitement requires some stamina tomaintain. Once partying claims priority,it seems impossible to imagine a timewhen the streets weren’t filled withdancers and marching bands (groupesà pied). A blasting horn urges everyoneout by the bayside en masse‚ dressedin neon wigs, feather boas, fishnetcapes, bright ballerina tutus and jewelencrustedG-strings, transforming thestreet into a kaleidoscopic river ofmadcap movement.Each year’s incarnation of Vaval‚ theenormous effigy that is Martinique’st a closely guardedning event (usuallyEpiphany). Thist formed ofpapier-mâchémight take anyform – everythingis fair game foromic effect, fromald Trump toministers or localn recent years Vavalxaggerated Vikingt of the Gauls.s, he is booed likethe highways, but now these crazycolouredCaribbean jalopies fill thestreets, revving loudly.At Carnival time, the MartinicanFrench side is amplified. Placardsproffer a dismissive Gallic shrug tothe European Union, Coco Chaneland the merest mention of frogs legs,yet the populace remain, in manyrespects, more French than the French.For instance, champagne consumptionis higher here than in any mainlanddepartment. Naughty lyrics ridiculethe French hierarchy, so expect lots ofscandalous songs about big noses andsnobbery. Costumes poke fun, too,mimicking bouffant-haired Parisianladies right down to their poodles.Every citizen, every age, in everycommunity celebrates in their ownway: from those who gently sway andshuffle, to flame-throwing calypsodancers on stilts. Towers of monsterspeakers blast throbbing basslines intoFort-de-France’s backstreets. Musicalityand rhythm is endemic here – nobodymisses a single beat.On the final day, Martinicans flit andflutter like moths to a lantern as themusic ramps up and the dancing gainseven more fervour. Rhythms overlapin a heady mishmash of zouk, biguine,samba and reggae and, while singingin French under tricolour flags, crowdsunify in a surge of national identity.“THERE’S A MAGICABOUT CARNIVALIN MARTINIQUE THAT ISTOTALLY BEWITCHING, YOUFEEL IT FROM THE MOMENT THEFIRST CHORD PLAYS. THE MAGICNEVER ENDS, EVEN AFTER VAVALIS CREMATED – IT STAYS WITHYOU ALL YEAR UNTIL THEPARTY STARTS AGAIN.”PASSI GERAULT,MARTINICAN GUIDECarnival is a most magnificentode to the joy of living. Everyevening, candlelit prayers are recitedin thanks. During these momentsof quiet reflection, you can stillfeel the drum beat in your bonesas choreographed limbs continuedancing non-stop in an effervescentmulti-mile loop.Before long, time is up for Vaval.Once funeral rites are given, a verypublic cremation is held on AshWednesday, as penance for theCarnival’s wild behaviours. Fauxtears of mourning accompany theMartinican sunset as the giant Vavaleffigy turns to dust – and Carnivaldraws to a close. Street cleanersgather up rum bottles and feathers,and persuade lingering revellersto head home to bed. No need tofeel too bad for Vaval, though: he’llemerge in another guise next year.ly garish are thepainted carsas bradjacks)d especially for. Typically, Frenchnd Citroëns clogTIP Join the first parade at daybreak – pyjamas are de rigueur. Pack somethingblack or white for Vaval’s funeral on Ash Wednesday.IT’S UNIQUE Instead of steel drums, Martinicans play a kind of deconstructeddrum set, with chachas (sand-filled bamboo shakers) to make a ‘shooookashooooka shooooka’ sound.January - February 2020 | www.liat.comZiNG CARIBBEAN | 55
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