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DESTINATION: DOMINICA
15
IT HAS LOADS OF VOLCANOES
For such a small island, Dominica has an astonishingly dense cluster of
volcanoes. With one exception, all are dormant: the Valley of Desolation is
very much an active caldera of bubbling mud, warm water rivers, hot, colourful
rocks and countless powerful fumaroles.
16
ITS RESURGENT
INDIGENOUS CULTURE
IS REGIONALLY UNIQUE
Around 5,000 years ago, Amerindian
people from South and Central
America travelled by canoe to the
Greater and Lesser Antilles. Several
migrations of people and cultures
took place over the years before
the Europeans arrived in the region,
mistakenly believing they had arrived
in the East Indies. When Europeans
landed on the shores of Dominica,
they were met by indigenous people
calling themselves Kalinago. Today,
their descendants live in a regionally
unique, semi-autonomous area of the
island known as the Kalinago Territory.
In recent times there has been a
movement among Kalinago people to
reclaim and rediscover their ancestry
and cultural identity. Travellers to
Dominica can get a taste of Kalinago
culture by visiting the villages
of the Territory, as well as
heritage sites such as
the Kalinago Barana
Aute, a ‘model’ village
showcasing traditional
thatched buildings,
basket weaving and
canoe construction. At
Touna Aute, former Kalinago
chief Irvince Auguiste combines
tradition with contemporary life,
demonstrating how the Kalinago live in
the modern world using the skills and
knowledge of the past.
17
IT HAS NATURAL SPAS
AND TROPICAL GARDENS
Hot volcanic springs can be found
in various places in Dominica, many
of them deep in the wilderness. The
most noteworthy and accessible
are the creatively constructed and
landscaped hot spas in and around the
village of Wotten Waven in the Roseau
Valley. Ti Kwen Glo Cho and Tia’s
are well-established favourites. The
mountain village of Giraudel is known
for its flower-growers and their annual
Flower Show, usually in May. Papillote
Gardens in Trafalgar is the most
celebrated private garden, a popular
destination for horticulturalists for
many years. As well as an abundance
of tropical plants and flowers,
Papillote boasts hot volcanic pools
and waterfalls.
18
IN RECENT
TIMES THERE
HAS BEEN A
MOVEMENT AMONG
KALINAGO PEOPLE
TO RECLAIM AND
REDISCOVER
THEIR ANCESTRY
AND CULTURAL
IDENTITY
IT’S A GOT A
MARVELLOUSLY MIXED
MUSIC VIBE
International recording artists such as
Michele Henderson are accomplished
exponents of a French Creole genre,
and even the ubiquitous
bouyon music that was
born in Dominica has its
roots partly in Creole.
Bouyon bands such as
WCK and Triple Kay
International are as
popular in the Frenchspeaking
islands as they
are at home. In May each
year, the Jazz & Creole Festival
is held at the Fort Shirley Garrison
in Cabrits National Park. And on the
last weekend in October, the finale to
Creole Week, the World Creole Music
Festival takes place at Windsor Park
Stadium in the capital, Roseau. Other
popular music genres are reggae, soca,
zouk and dancehall, and concerts are
held at intimate venues island-wide
throughout the year.
19
IT STIMULATES ARTISANS
AND ENTREPRENEURS
Buying local and seasonal are in
fashion right now – and in Dominica
you are spoiled for choice in both
areas. For example, local artisans are
creating a range of excellent, additivefree,
all-natural products such as
soaps, body scrubs, essential oils, skin
cleansers, honey, bush and cocoa teas,
coconut oil and organic chocolate.
Pointe Baptiste Chocolate, produced
just a short walk from the mystical Red
Rocks coastline near Calibishie,
is among Dominica’s finest, and you
can even visit the factory to see it
being made.
20
IT HAS MOUTH-
WATERING
CREOLE CUISINE
The Creole cuisine of Dominica
combines French and African
influences, traditionally incorporating
meats, fish and crustaceans. It is usually
heavily seasoned and served with
root crops such as yam, dasheen
and tania – collectively known as
provisions – as well as vegetables,
breadfruit, green banana, plantain,
rice and peas. Traditional dishes
include callaloo soup (made from
young dasheen leaves), crabback
(made from land crabs), sancoche
(usually a codfish and coconut milk
dish) and one pot braf, a broth of
ground provisions, smoked meats
and green banana. This style of fillyou-up
cooking still prevails to this
day, with lunch usually being served as
the main meal of the day, enjoyed at
restaurants and small eateries islandwide.
Come with an appetite and
prepare to feast!●
c
e
a
d
b
a. Roam the island
among its lush and
verdant nature
b. Learn about
traditional crafts
at Kalinago Barana
Aute village
c. Catch great
performances at
the annual Jazz &
Creole Festival
d. Discover natural
spas and wonderful
tropical gardens
e. See chocolate
being made at
Pointe Baptiste
f. Cool off under
Victoria Falls
f
PAUL CRASK; DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY
44 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN www.liat.com | January - February 2020