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FETE FUN
SAINT MARTIN
USP: A FRIENDLY, LESS-FRANTIC PARTY, WITH FAMILIES AT ITS HEART
Locals plan all year for the Saint
Martin Carnival, painting masks,
mending costumes, stitching sequins
and ensuring each event retains its own
pizzazz. Parades start in January before
the Mardi Gras, and run for weeks,
including pageants for the crowning of
Miss Pitchounette (Little Miss Carnival).
Children as young as two take part
in parties, parades and promenades,
learning early that it is a true test of
stamina – especially the Jouve Jump
Up, which starts at 4am.
In Carnival circles, Saint Martin’s
intimate celebrations are much-loved
for their family focus: there
is less liquor-drenched
boisterousness here.
Instead, celebrations
pay homage to the
island’s rich history,
drawing close-knit
communities to
Marigot’s beautiful
bay-front.
With thinner
crowds and fewer
all-night hedonist bangers,
most parades start at a godly hour
(lunchtime is préféré). Even the music
truck and speaker towers enjoy some
daily down time. There is also plenty
of time to eat – really eat, not just
soak up the rum – thanks to Saint
Martin’s well-stocked French larder.
For sustenance when exhaustion sets
in, order a plate of salt cod fritters
and grilled lobster washed down
with a carafe of rum punch – so
exquisite that it sends gastronomes
from Toulouse into a spin. You’ll find
bottles of sancerre, beaujolais and
muscadet wines throughout Marigot,
plus enough French cheeses to satisfy
pre-Lenten gluttony. Street chefs in
“CARNIVAL
DOESN’T
DISCRIMINATE – IF YOU
LOVE MUSIC, GOOD VIBES
AND OUR CULTURE, THEN
THE CARNIVAL WELCOMES
YOU. COME PARTY IN
SAINT MARTIN TO FEEL
THE WARMTH OF OUR
COMMUNITY.”
MIMI DJOUGINE
RESIDENT
Marigot cook
without the
gastronomic
pretentiousness of
the motherland, with
matoutou de crabe (herby
seasoned crab) a particular
Carnival favourite – c’est délicieux!
Water stations and puppet shows
keep young children comfortable.
Parties have a friendly vibe, with
dancing that strikes a subtle tone –
sure, it’s high-energy sexy, but not
downright dirty, with only a few
songs that will make the clergy blush.
Costumes are elaborate, crafted to
perfection with shimmering tulles,
feathers and sequins. Only the
engulfing flames of King Moumou
are brighter, heralding the end of
Carnival to the sound of screeching
fireworks and a few final pounding
soca rhythms. ●
TIP Suss out where the cooling stations are for access to iced water and snow cones.
IT’S UNIQUE Crabs are collected for weeks beforehand in order to make Carnival
delicacy matoutou de crabe; the crabs are even fed spices and seasoned vegetables
so that the dish is extra tasty!
Above: Miss Pitchounette celebrates her success at Saint Martin’s family-friendly Carnival
TIPS FOR CARNIVAL
Go with the flow of the crowd –
parades will take as long as they take,
so don’t try to rush
Dress up! Better make it sparkly, glitzy
and outlandish
Prepare for a long day – hydrate,
eat, and pack emergency flat shoes and
sticking plasters for blisters
Pace your drinking – the rum starts
flowing at daybreak
Forget personal space – Carnival is
up-close and very personal!
Nap like a newborn – grabbing
30 minutes here and there is better
than no sleep at all
Pack earplugs – the parade music is
insanely loud.
Follow the lead of the locals –
Carnival is a time to let loose without
judgement.
Finally: enjoy!
ALAMY
58 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN www.liat.com | January - February 2020