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FETE FUNLE CARNAVAL!Add extra joie de vivre to your fete this seasonby playing mas in Martinique, Guadeloupe andSaint Martin. Sarah Wood gives the lowdownon Carnival, French Caribbean styleCarnival2020 datesALL OF THE FRENCHCARNIVALS PEAK AROUND23-26 FEBRUARY; PARADESAND PAGEANTS BEGININ JANUARY AND RUNINTO MARCHNothing can prepare a firsttimerfor Carnival in theFrench Caribbean.After I arrived inGuadeloupe, my taxi driver Laurenturged me to sleep for 72 hoursbeforehand. François recommendedstamina-boosting vitamins as hehanded me a crêpe in the L’îlet Douceurcafé. Further advice was doled out fromevery quarter: I was offered dancingtips, warned against a raging thirstand other heat-related ailments, toldto prepare for melon-sized blisters,scolded for my costume choice (fartoo modest) and told a zillion timesthat “at Carnival time, anything goes”. ACarnival veteran friend expressed realconcern that I’d not upped my cardiowork beforehand: “You’ll be gaspingfor air, weak legged, fried to a crispand hallucinating,” she told me. “It issuper-intense. Like running a marathonin spike heels in summer, only with neatrum to rehydrate.”All of these things came topass. For the entire week I spent inGuadeloupe at Carnival time, I barelyslept, instead summoning Herculeanlevels of energy to dance the streetsfrom morning to night. Back and forth Iswayed to the syncopated pounding ofsnare drums. I was twirled by strangerswearing little more than a feather ortwo. I was showered in a rainbow ofconfetti as the music morphed fromacoustic to soca. A troupe of oiled-updudes in lurex span me around in ablur. I got tangled in a near-nakedconga and I gasped for breath as theair filled with glitter dust and sparkles.My toes wept, my calf muscles burned,the zillion-watt pulse of a boomboom-boombassline supercharged mychest, and my tendons tightened tosnapping point in my vertigo-inducingheels. I’d never wiggled or jiggled somuch in my life: every inch of mybody was in constant movement, frommy ankles to the tip of my head. Butthe undulating bodies all around meshowed no sign of flagging.At one point I stopped to surveythe spectacle: it was a glorious collisionof unashamed sexiness and familyentertainment. Several bystanders wereweeping tears of joy. I, too, felt a bubbleof emotion, so with arms outstretchedI sounded my whistle, clicked my heelsand pirouetted with a smile as broad asan over-stretched hammock. Physically,I was high on the collective exuberanceof Guadeloupe’s crowds: the joyfulchants, the vibrant costumes and thehip-shimmying exhilaration. Spiritually,I felt empowered, as if fuelled byGuadeloupe’s phenomenal life-force.That’s why, while shaking my booty in afroth of neon-pink feathers, I promisedmyself I’d do it all again…“You’ll be gasping for air, weak legged, fried to a crisp, hallucinating. Carnival here is super-52 | ZiNG CARIBBEAN www.liat.com | January - February 2020
This image:Prepare for a different kindof Carnival in the FrenchCaribbean – this masked revelleris celebrating in Martiniqueintense – like running a marathon in spike heels in summer, with neat rum to rehydrate”BERNARD ALEXANDERJanuary - February 2020 | www.liat.com ZiNG CARIBBEAN | 53
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TAKE ME AWAY! I’M YOUR FREE COPY
Page 3 and 4: HOME • CONTENTS • MOTOR • LIA
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Page 15 and 16: January - February 2020 | www.liat.
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Page 25 and 26: January - February 2020 | www.liat.
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