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TRICKS OF THE<br />
Making cents…<br />
“Charge what<br />
you want”<br />
I have read numerous threads about pricing and since you guys have been such a great<br />
help, I wanted to kick around an idea. So, there are two other car washes in town. None of<br />
which have a better location than me. The biggest competitor in town is $1.00 for 4:00. I have matched<br />
that, but it seems way too long of time for $1.00 the other one in town is $1.25 for 4:00. I was thinking about<br />
going .50 to start and .45 seconds per quarter. Do you guys think I will still compete at being .50 to start even<br />
being a full 1 minute less per dollar?<br />
“Try 50 cents”<br />
“Attract<br />
customers first”<br />
…My biggest issue is that my car wash has been closed for 3 years so I am trying to get the word out that it has opened. I might drop to 50<br />
cents just to get the word out that I’m open and to gain traffic and then raise it to at least match the other wash in town later on. FASTLANECARWASH<br />
If you’re the best in town, you can charge appropriately<br />
for it. 50¢ to start might be a good grand<br />
re-opening price, but you’ll be the one getting the<br />
worst customers that make the biggest messes if<br />
you plan to run it that way. I’m $1.50 for 3 minutes<br />
- my nearest competition was $1.00 for 2:40,<br />
he raised his price to match mine, the other day his<br />
worker said his customers are now saying they prefer<br />
my wash, but they go back to his because mine<br />
is too busy to get in. MEP001<br />
I’d rather wash fewer cars and make more money<br />
doing it. This is almost 2020.... $1 for four minutes.<br />
May as well get a job with eves and weekends off<br />
and no worries.... likely make more $. Please don’t<br />
tell me you are also offering free vacs?!<br />
My s/s is $3 for 4 min. Vac $2 for 6 min. Auto $8,<br />
$10, $12, and $14. CHAZ<br />
It’s a hard call whether or not to raise your prices.<br />
On January 1st the minimum wage in Washington<br />
state is going up to $13.50 an hour. Most<br />
of the car washes have or are raising their prices.<br />
I’m planning on going to $2.75 for 4 minutes in<br />
the S/S bays, of that $2.75, 28 cents is Washington<br />
state sales tax that we have to pay. At $2.75 I’ll be<br />
one of the least expensive car washes, most are in<br />
the $3.00 - $3.50 range. RANDY<br />
Car washing is discretionary. Charge as much as<br />
you can get away with. No one is being robbed.<br />
They can go to the competition if they think you’re<br />
charging too much. I.B.WASHINCARS<br />
I’m down here in Texas and if you read on carwashforum.com,<br />
we are cheaper than most members<br />
on here. I think your real issue is that it sounds<br />
like you just reopened this wash and you want to<br />
get the word out and business back. I was in the<br />
same position with my first wash 4 years ago and I<br />
actually started at .25 to start and that gave you 1<br />
min & 30 secs.... BUT I didn’t stay there long. I was<br />
basically living at the wash on the weekends meeting<br />
and greeting EVERYONE as I raised the prices<br />
and I didn’t really hear many complaints because<br />
we have great soaps, pressure, everything is always<br />
working or fixed immediately and so forth. In summary,<br />
I would lower your price and have a re-grand<br />
opening with balloons, feather flags, etc. etc. then<br />
work your way up as much as you can. RFREEMAN<br />
I have customers who say I’m overpriced at<br />
$3.50 for 5 mins but we are now 1 of 2 self serve<br />
left in our area, we get a lot of vehicles that cannot<br />
go through a tunnel or auto so I control that<br />
aspect of the market. But the monthly membership<br />
trend has been nipping at me as well but<br />
that’s a whole other thread. DIAMONDWASH<br />
In my opinion, if you want to get the word out do<br />
the same thing tunnels do and offer FREE washes<br />
for a week or two. Get people in the door to see how<br />
good you are and let them see what a great operation<br />
you have and what the regular price will be - same or<br />
slightly more than competition - but for better stuff.<br />
I did this once by simply pulling the coin boxes and<br />
vaults and making stickers that said insert quarter -<br />
retrieve below. Got people used to the system/price.<br />
Kept stuff going by timers. EARL WEISS<br />
I’m about $1/1 minute. $3 start. 2/1 ss/iba. Fully<br />
staffed, used car lot, detail shop on site. Free towel<br />
dry station. CC acceptance, air shammies in bays,<br />
mat brusher, vending galore, 4 vacs, air machine for<br />
tires. Be all you can be to the customer and charge<br />
whatever the market will bear. It’s not a moral issue,<br />
it’s business. WAXMAN<br />
High pressure problems…<br />
I have a self serve bay and the high pressure functions are not<br />
working, but all of the low pressure functions are working. …In<br />
the equipment room inside the control panels (probably not the<br />
correct term) there is a button I can push that turns on the motor<br />
that drives the high pressure pump and when I push that button<br />
the motor comes on and drives the pump.<br />
My two other bays work fine so the issue is localized to this bay.<br />
I am not an electrician, but it is weird to me that all three high<br />
pressure functions (rinse, wax, soap) would quit at the same time,<br />
unless there is a fuse someplace that I am unaware of.<br />
HITCHPALOTIVE<br />
Check power from the rotary switch. It should<br />
have two layers of outputs, one for each individual<br />
function’s solenoid, the other just for power to the<br />
motor. MEP001<br />
Could also be the thermal overload - that would<br />
be one of those “little fuses someplace that you<br />
don’t know about.” Press the little blue reset button,<br />
see if that solves it. It would be attached to<br />
the motor starter, which is that “button I can push<br />
that turns on the motor that drives the high-pressure<br />
pump.” PAULLOVESJAMIE<br />
Once when I replaced a rotary switch, I forgot to<br />
remove the metal jumper from the old switch and<br />
put it on the new switch. The result of that was<br />
the same - no high pressure. SEQUOIA<br />
MEP001 was correct, the “motor” wire to the rotary<br />
switch had corroded and there wasn’t a connection<br />
anymore. Thank you for all of the help,<br />
probably save me several frustrating hours this<br />
evening. HITCHPALOTIVE<br />
Owning and knowing how to use a good voltmeter<br />
is a carwash owner’s best friend. I don’t know<br />
how anyone can get by without one. You could<br />
have quickly discovered you weren’t getting power<br />
to the motor starter coil...Then worked back to<br />
the terminal strip and then the bay rotary.... Glad<br />
you found the problem! 2BIZ<br />
26 • WINTER 2020