Jeweller - March 2020

FLIGHT OF FANCY | Colour Diamonds Feature
Natella Aminov
Vital Diamonds
Director
Graff
“Browns –
champagne
and cognac diamonds
– they are the
strongest [category].
We have a really
exceptional collection
of these goods in
traditional round
cut and rare fancy
shapes.”
Pink Kimberley, SAMS Group Australia
Aminov says brown diamonds, across the
spectrum of hues from light to saturated,
are the leading fancy colour category at Vital
Diamonds. “Browns – champagne and cognac
diamonds – they are the strongest [category].
We have a really exceptional collection of these
goods in traditional round cut and rare fancy
shapes,” she says.
Yellow diamonds have
also been in demand
at Vital, although
Aminov notes it is not
as consistent as the
demand for cognacs
and champagnes.
Salt-and-pepper diamond,
O’Neils Affiliated
At World Shiner, Shah
notes pink diamonds in all sizes are still
the most popular fancy stones due to their
‘investment’ appeal.
However, he has observed different colour
trends too.
“Other colours are getting more popular, like
yellow, champagne, and cognac. We don’t
have difficulty providing champagne and
cognac diamonds to jewellers – they are still
easily available compared with pink, blue and
green diamonds, which are extremely difficult
to source,” Shah explains.
Meanwhile, Bolton has noticed the expense of
pink diamonds encourages consumers to seek
alternative hues, explaining,“Most consumers
are infatuated with the concept of an Argyle pink
diamond. However, when they see the current
prices and realise what they can afford, we find
a lot of people then also look at other colours.”
Harsh Maheshwari
Kunming Diamonds
Director
“It’s a big
misconception
that [fancy colour
diamonds] are all
extremely expensive.
Of course, the main
component is colour,
so if jewellers focus
on that more than size
and clarity, they will be
able to find something
within their range.”
Eira Thomas
Lucara
CEO
“Lucara is extremely
pleased with the
recovery of these
rare, sizeable, fancy
coloured diamonds,
which have the
potential to contribute
meaningful value to
our regular production
of large, high-value
type IIa diamonds.”
Australian Chocolate Diamonds – deep,
rich brown diamonds from the Argyle
Mine – have fulfilled some of the demand
for an Argyle stone due to stable and
affordable pricing.
“We have seen many inquiries in 3-5 carat
sizes as publicity around the mine closing
increases and savvy investors are looking
to broaden their options,” Bolton adds.
Internationally, Polnauer notes: “In
larger sizes, yellow diamonds are in
high demand. However, Argyle diamonds
are without doubt the most soughtafter
stones worldwide,
especially in Australia.
These beauties all
want to return home!
“Unlike colorless
diamonds, we have
no Rapaport list to
follow, so it is often
challenging knowing
what is in demand,”
he adds.
Swarovski
Created
Diamonds
Color Collection
Meanwhile, Kunming Diamonds
customers are interested in pinks – in
particular those from Argyle – as well
as blues and colours that have modifiers,
according to Maheshwari.
“Orangey-pinks, brownish-pinks,
greenish-blues – these modifiers give
the stone added character and personality,
and are also not as expensive as a pure
colour,” he explains.
“The intrinsic value of a colour diamond
is in the eye of the beholder – some
appreciate the colour more than the rarity
factor, which can make it more popular in
the market, while others appreciate the
elitism and collect for the exceptionality
[of a particular colour].”
In the lab-created category, Schiechtl
says the “classic colours” of pink, yellow
and blue have received positive feedback
for Swarovski since the Color Collection
launched at Paris Couture Fashion Week
in January.
He adds,“People were also very excited
about colours beyond the classical
tones, like Neo Expressionist
Pistachio (light green), Gothic
Cognac (fancy deep yellow)
and Heavy Metal Cherry
(intense red).”
The Biron Lab Grown range
includes blue, yellow and pink
diamonds, with demand concentrated
on “true pink, without orange overtones”,
according to Bolton.
“A lot of consumers looking for pink
diamonds expect them to be bright,
saturated pink. That’s the colour most
consumers are looking for and they are
also very affordable,” he explains.
Ultimately, fancy colour diamonds –
whether natural or lab-grown – offer retail
jewellers the opportunity to cater to a wide
variety of customers, create beautiful and
unique pieces, and improve margins on
diamond sales.
Green
Purple
Blue
Grey
Black
When natural radiation displaces
carbon atoms as a diamond is
forming, it will appear green.
Lab-grown green diamonds are
also exposed to radiation but do not
have the same radiation ‘stains’ on
their surface as natural greens
Purple diamonds form naturally
due to a combination of crystal
lattice deformation and a high
hydrogen content. Lab-grown
purple diamonds are formed
using irradiation and annealing
The element boron makes
diamonds appear blue both in
nature and when manufactured.
Interestingly, lab-grown blue
diamonds form more quickly
than whites
Hydrogen atoms give grey
diamonds their colour. The
chemical vapour deposition (CVD)
method for lab-grown diamonds
usually produces grey or brown
diamonds, which are then heat
treated to make them white
Many very dark inclusions
make a diamond appear black;
however, most natural black
diamonds on the market are
treated with radiation to make
the black colour uniform
March 2020 | 27