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Jeweller - March 2020

• Fancy Colour Diamonds Feature • Engagement Rings Feature • Buying Groups Feature

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My Bench<br />

Zoë Pook<br />

Zoë Pook <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Sydney NSW<br />

Age 46 • Years in Trade 15 • Training Higher National Certificate in Silversmithing & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y from university in London, plus learning the tricks of the trade<br />

from two London jewellers • First job Ben Day <strong>Jeweller</strong>y • Other Qualifications Expert at talking to myself when I work and thus confusing all my staff<br />

SIGNATURE PIECE<br />

KALI RING<br />

SILENT AUCTION DONATION, SYDNEY PEACE PRIZE 2019<br />

Named after the Hindu goddess Kali, the destroyer of evil forces and liberator<br />

of souls, this ring is handcrafted in 18-carat Fairtrade white gold with Sri Lankan<br />

sapphire and Australian diamond.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Spinel, because it<br />

is hard, beautiful, comes in unusual colours, is<br />

underrated, not crazy expensive, and – for those<br />

gem nerds – singly refractive. My absolute favourite<br />

is grey spinel, I have way too many!<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL To work with, it’s yellow gold<br />

– so easy. To look at, rose gold – but what a pain in<br />

the a*se to work with!<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL Safety back needle file. I love<br />

the sharp edges, and it has an ergonomic feel.<br />

Failing that, a ‘whacker’ – a bent, old, drill bit that<br />

spreads the metal to cover porosity, create a nice<br />

texture and smooth out bumps.<br />

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Mini clamps by<br />

Tyler Brothers, Habras discs – I was skeptical at<br />

first but one of my jewellers put me onto them –<br />

Tappa Tools mini graphite ingots, or a laser welder.<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Tea break, and sitting at<br />

the bench chatting with everyone, weighing in on<br />

problems and finding solutions! I also quite like the<br />

peace and quiet of early evening in the studio, with<br />

the music on, working on a piece by myself.<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Polishing, and<br />

managing clients’ expectations.<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER When stuck for<br />

design inspiration, make something you yourself<br />

would wear. Oh, and don’t under-quote!<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Set boundaries with<br />

clients and learn when and how to say no.<br />

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH<br />

Dust and polishing compounds in your lungs. We<br />

have recently got some new fancy masks, which I<br />

now just need to remember to put on!<br />

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It’s one of the oldest<br />

ways for us humans to adorn ourselves, to show<br />

our individuality or tribe, to be creative. It’s worn by<br />

everyone, old or young, from any culture.<br />

52 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

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