The Red Bulletin April 2020 (US)

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Even the uninitiated can see the precision and improvisation of his movements. Normally, successful athletes this brilliant are cagier about their feelings. “Like a pro tennis player is not going to talk about caressing the net, you know?” Igarashi says. “But when you’re in the ocean, you’re surrounded by it—you feel it inside your fingers. The waves are crashing at you and it’s like this force of nature. So it might sound pretty weird, but there are days where I get out of the water and just tell the ocean how grateful I am to have it in my life.” He spends big chunks of time feeling the love here on Oahu every year. Truth be told, he spends big chunks of time in lots of surf spots—in Portugal, in Bali, in Australia, in other beautiful places with big-ass waves. Here on the North Shore, Kanoa has a predictable routine: He surfs at Sunset Beach and legendary local breaks like Pipeline and Backdoor; he hits a local gym and goes on a long hike two or three times a week “up into the hills, where I can look over the whole North Shore and have some time for myself.” And, of course, he centers his day on the ocean. “The first thing I do when I wake up every morning is to go for a swim right in front of the house here,” he says, talking about his morning rituals and also his life. “I always just jump in and let the water go over me—at that point, it’s just me and the ocean. No matter what’s going on, as soon as my feet touch the water, I know I’m good.” The island of Oahu, which sits in the Pacific amid the expanse between Los Angeles and Tokyo, is the perfect place to trace Kanoa’s journey to this point in his life. If traffic is light, Sunset Beach is only an hour or so from the gleaming resort community of Waikiki, where he got his first surfboard on his 3rd birthday. His family, on vacation from L.A., went into a surf shop LEO FRANCIS/RED BULL CONTENT POOL Igarashi says he typically spends four hours a day surfing. 54 THE RED BULLETIN
An ascendant Igarashi finished the 2019 season ranked sixth overall on the Championship Tour. THE RED BULLETIN 55
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The Red Bulletin April 2020 (US)

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