Style: January 13, 2021

18 Style | Feature
See
Allow two days to take in The Catlins, which is 1.5
hours drive south of Dunedin via the Southern Scenic
Route. Plunge straight into the region’s rugged beauty
with a morning visit to Tokata Lighthouse at Nugget
Point. Bring your binoculars with you on the 10–20
minute return walk that leads to views of sea stacks,
seals and seabirds (including the occasional yelloweyed
penguin). Be prepared to be wowed by the sheer
drama of the scenery.
If your appetite for coastal cliffs has been whetted,
book in with Cara Meyer’s Catlins Horse Riding Te
Taunga Adventures (41 Newhaven Road, New Haven).
Operating just out of the tiny hamlet of Pounawea, the
stable offers riders a range of horses to suit their levels
of ability and the chance to enjoy the coastline, quiet
country roads, farmland and native forest of The Catlins.
Surat Bay, a stone’s throw from Pounawea, is home
to one of the rarest sea lion species in the world. Take
up the opportunity to see some of the handful of these
magnificent animals that frequent the mainland. To
get a glimpse, start out from the end of the no-exit
road leading to Surat Bay, make your way from the
car park to the river estuary, and walk quietly towards
the sea. The large mammals may be well camouflaged
as they are almost the same colour as the sand, so
proceed with caution and observe all Department of
Conservation instruction signage. On a fine day, extend
your walk from Surat Bay to Cannibal Bay.
The small township of Owaka is the place to put
your sightseeing into perspective, with a visit to the
community’s architecturally designed, state-of-the-art
museum, gallery and information centre.
South of Owaka, the scene gets quirkier when you
stop off at the village of Papatowai and the Lost Gypsy
Curios & Coffee (Papatowai Highway, Papatowai).
The Lost Gypsy Gallery and Museum of Winding
Thoughts Theatre of Sorts (closed Wednesdays) is the
brainchild of automata-artist Blair Somerville and the
wind-up, button-pressing experience is not one to be
missed. Relax with a coffee and home-baking from the
adjacent Little Rocket Café (2532 Papatowai Highway,
Papatowai) – a coffee caravan with covered seating and
the friendliest barista you could ever hope to meet. If
you’re feeling indulgent, have your portrait sketched by
the artist-in-residence Sandra van der Sommen as you
enjoy your refreshments.
While most explorers head straight from the Lost
Gypsy to the well-known sites of the Cathedral Caves,
some of The Catlins’ best treasures are just a few
minutes south of Papatowai. Watch out for signposts
leading to Lake Wilkie (a magical little lake surrounded
by rata forest) and the Tautuku Estuary Boardwalk, a
nature lover’s eye-candy trail that leads over jointed
rush and estuary to rich fern bird habitat.
Complete your Catlins experience with a low-tide
visit to Curio Bay’s petrified forest. If you want to learn
more about the area, call in at Tumu Toka Curioscape
(590 Waikawa-Curio Bay Road, Waikawa) close to the
campground for a recorded self-guided tour. Right next
door to the petrified forest is Porpoise Bay. Named for
its resident population of Hector’s dolphins, the bay is
popular with international visitors who often brave the
cool sea conditions in the hopes that the dolphins will
see fit to grace them with their presence.
ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT: Sunset from The Catlins; The majestic Cathedral Caves; Carol Geissler at her Little Rocket Café.