March echo

WITHOUT RESERVATIONS
Shucking and clucking at
Benjamin’s Upstairs
By Jeff Kronenfeld
Hidden in the speakeasy above
Citizen Public House in Old Town
Scottsdale is Benjamin’s Upstairs, a
new restaurant and bar offering sanctuary
to the hungry and amorous alike. While not
actually a secret, ascending its stairs makes
you feel like a VIP nonetheless, and we
haven’t even gotten to the fried chicken,
oysters, or natural wine. Chef Benjamin
Graham succeeds in serving up a unique
dining experience that is both romantic
and filling.
Opened in August of last year, the space
has just six tables and is only open three
nights a week, which is why reservations
are essential. I booked five days in advance,
and most of the coming Saturday’s time
slots were already spoken for, though not
all. I considered this a good sign while also
wondering how crowded the swanky sky
parlor would be. Old Town was certainly
bustling when we arrived shortly before
the appointed time. As we approached the
entrance, the beauty from the thousands
of golden bulbs strung from trees and
awnings was balanced by the loud yelling
from a pack of passing carousers.
This and all other thoughts of the
outside world were quickly forgotten
once we entered CPH. A host escorted us
around the bar, through a narrow hall, and
up a dark flight of stairs. Emerging from
the shadowy underworld into the gleaming
light of the chandelier and flickering glow
of the candles was disorienting in a good
way. There were no clocks or windows.
Chef Benjamin Graham; courtesy of In Good Spirits
Oysters and fried chicken; courtesy of In Good Spirits
Instead, the walls were covered in old
recipes framed like works of art. The
room’s black and white color scheme was
occasionally interspersed with an intricate
geometric pattern. Here the food, drinks,
and, of course, your company are the
evening’s center of attention, with the
other elements serving as complements
rather than distractions.
My concerns that the elevated eatery
might be too small or densely packed were
quickly allayed. A little like a Tardis from
“Dr. Who,” the space seems larger than you
would guess from the outside. In fact, the
distance between tables is greater than
in most full-size restaurants I’ve visited of
late. Ensconced in our romantic nook and
far from the two couples who were there
before us, we felt comfortable turning our
attention to ordering when our very helpful
waiter Scotty arrived.
The food and drink menu is small but
varied. Wanting to take our time after
hustling all week, we opted to start with
refreshments. Cocktails, beer, and more
familiar varieties of wine are all available,
but the selection of natural wines are
the real stars. Listed under the heading
pétillant naturel, which literally translates
into natural sparkling, these bubbly drinks
are made by adding wild or ancestral
varieties of yeast at the time of bottling. As
the fruity fluid ferments, CO2 is produced
as a natural byproduct, giving these wines
an effervescent quality without recourse to
some cringy industrial process. Sometimes
14 MARCH 2021 | ECHOMAG.COM
DINING OUT