Jeweller - September 2021

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Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE Asprey cut Bez Ambar Blaze Solo cut Above: Buddha Cut diamond set in pendant. Left: Loose Buddha Cut diamond current GIA cut grade standard is acceptable as it has provided a standardised format for objectively comparing one diamond’s cut grade to another, however, it can be improved by tightening the parameters that constitute an Excellent cut grade,” he says. Holloway points out that the standards are also not necessarily enforced by grading laboratories. “More than 10 per cent of GIA-graded Excellent cut diamonds are deeper than 63 per cent, and the GIA teaches that 62.9 per cent is the maximum allowable depth percentage,” he says. “When queried on this, the GIA explains that [its proprietary cut-assessment software program] Facetware adds the crown height, girdle thickness and pavilion depth percentages to arrive at depth percentage. So, clever cutters have developed workarounds – and GIA allows it!” There are still persistent misconceptions when it comes to avoiding poorly-cut stones, particularly when searching for niche products such as fancy shapes, or purchasing fancycolour diamonds" Indeed, Tok has observed that “Excellent-grade round brilliant cut diamonds have changed over the past few years in that there has been a reduction in the diameter of particular sizes”. “A 1-carat round with an Excellent cut grade usually would have a diameter of 6.4mm–6.5mm, while a 1.50-carat would have a diameter of 7.4mm–7.5mm; now, you can find plenty of examples of 1-carat and 1.50-carat round diamonds, certified XXX by GIA, with diameters under 6.3mm and 7.3mm, respectively. Maulin Shah World Shiner "With fancy shapes, it comes down to the dealer. A diamond dealer with a solid reputation, extensive experience, and a loyal existing customer base will be able to give good advice on fancy shapes." John Chapman Delta Diamond Laboratory and Gemetrix "Different polishers have their own ‘recipes’ for extracting the most colour and some make a livelihood out of recutting diamonds to achieve a more valuable colour grade." Abraham Tok Tok Bros "Excellent-grade round brilliant cut diamonds have changed over the past few years in that there has been a reduction in the diameter of particular sizes... The end result is a 'lumpier' or 'fatter' stone." “The end result is a ‘lumpier’ or ‘fatter’ stone that has higher crown angles, increased depth percentages and thicker girdles. The extra weight to push the diamond into the [more valuable] 1-carat and 1.50-carat size ranges is hidden in these proportions in order to extract more value/ yield from the rough diamond.” He adds, “This generally has a negative impact on the appearance of the diamond for jewellers as it is visually smaller when compared side-by-side with a diamond that was cut to the original Excellent parameters; 0.1mm–0.2mm may not sound like much as an overall measurement, however, when comparing diamonds this is a significant difference that is easily noticeable to the trained eye.” Holloway points out a further problem of transparency being included in the clarity grade rather than the cut grade, meaning “a diamond can have an Excellent cut grade – or even top performance with my Holloway Cut Advisor – but it can still be as dull as dishwater.” “In theory, a black diamond could receive a XXX cut grade,” he adds, explaining that the GIA's and other laboratory's jargon can result in confusion for both jewellery retailers and consumers alike. “The worst is 'Clarity grade is based on clouds not show' which means the clouds are not plotted on the clarity image on a full certificate,” Holloway adds. Exceptions and misconceptions With the rise of custom jewellery design – particularly for engagement rings – fancy shapes such as marquise, kite, and heart are becoming increasingly popular. Yet none receive a standardised cut grade on a certificate, whether graded by the GIA or another laboratory, in the same way as a round brilliant. Even classic shapes like cushion, pear, and oval do not receive a full cut grade. Says Holloway, “Simply put, most jewellers have no idea that the GIA does not grade cut proportions for any fancyshaped diamonds.” 56 | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
DIAMOND CUTS A BRIEF HISTORY The history of diamond cutting is a long one. In the mid-14th Century, the octahedral facets of rough stones would be polished to create the simple ‘Point cut’; a century later, the Table cut was created by splitting the octahedral crystal in half. THE NEXT CHAPTER IN FINE JEWELRY Later, the Rose cut – introduced to Europe in approximately 1530 – began to gain popularity. With 24 facets, the cut was prized for its soft, diffused light. In the 17th Century, French-Italian Cardinal Jules Mazarin invented his namesake cut – perhaps the first true precursor to the modern brilliant cut – with 17 crown facets. The Mazarin cut was later improved by Venetian polisher Vincent Peruzzi, who nearly doubled the number of crown facets for his Peruzzi cut. By the late 1800s, the South African diamond rush had well and truly begun, and demand for more efficient diamond cutting techniques increased. The industry was revolutionised by steamdriven bruting machines and motorised saws, which enabled faster and more precise cutting – leading to the development of the Old European cut, with 58 facets. Previously, diamonds were laboriously cleaved by hand and polished using diamond dust. Coster Diamonds, in the Netherlands, claims to have been the first polishing house to use steam-powered cutting machines, in 1840. Old Mine cut diamonds emerged around this time, featuring 58 facets – similar to the modern round brilliant, but with a chunkier and more geometric look. In the 1870s, master cutter Henry D Morse developed what is known as the Transition cut or American cut. Trained in the Netherlands, Morse established the first diamond cutting factory in the US, where several technological breakthroughs took place. Notably, Morse profoundly shifted his focus away from maintaining the weight of the rough towards creating the most beautiful result, with lower main angles, smaller tables and symmetrical facets. Indicative of his skill, Morse was trusted to cut the largest stone found in the US in the 19th Century, the Dewey Diamond. Perhaps the most significant breakthrough in diamond cutting came in 1919, when engineer Marcel Tolkowsky – born to a family of diamantaires – developed the modern round brilliant cut, also known as the American Ideal cut or Tolkowsky cut. Tolkowsky’s formula maximised light return based on mathematical principles, and provided a framework by which the vast majority of the world’s diamonds are still cut today. The 20th Century would give rise to many other notable diamond shapes and cuts; the modern Oval cut, developed by Tolkowsky’s cousin Lazare Kaplan, the 66-facet Radiant cut, invented by New York cutter Henry Grossbard in 1977, and the Princess – a square diamond with a brilliant cut – in 1979. SWAROVSKI CREATED DIAMONDS The late ’90s and early 2000s saw an influx of proprietary – either trademarked or patented – diamond cuts, concurrent with an increasingly crowded and competitive market, and rapid technological advancements. In 2018, the GIA established a Proprietary Cut Program and began issuing reports including branded cut names and descriptions. Today, more than 90 per cent of the world’s diamonds are cut and polished in India; approximately three quarters are round brilliants. Now proudly distributed by Meanwhile large, premium diamonds and complex shapes are primarily cut in Antwerp, Israel, and New York. 02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au
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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY I
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Our Australian sapphire jewellery c
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Australia is enriched with amazing
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Helping you shine yesterday, today
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Page 15 and 16: Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWes
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Page 27 and 28: Bigger is better for Lightbox labcr
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Page 35 and 36: www.centrestone.com.au CENTRESTONE
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Page 39 and 40: REVIEW Gems Unusual Opal Part I: Fi
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Page 43 and 44: A L L O Y S P R O M I S E P P R I C
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Page 54 and 55: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE Go
Page 56 and 57: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE TH
Page 58 and 59: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE Ab
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Page 84: My Bench Rick Southwick Rick Southw
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