Jeweller - September 2021

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BLUE & GREEN In Depth Green Tourmaline (Verdelite) Afghanistan Brazil Mozambique Sri Lanka Tajikistan USA Blue Topaz (Natural) Brazil USA Peridot Australia Brazil China Kenya Mexico Myanmar (Burma) Norway Pakistan Saudi Arabia South Africa Sri Lanka Tanzania USA Tsavorite Garnet Tanzania Madagascar Pakistan Emerald Afghanistan Australia Brazil Colombia Pakistan Russia Zambia USA Aquamarine Brazil China India Madagascar Mozambique Russia USA Colombia PACIFIC OCEAN • Emerald • Sapphire USA • Green Tourmaline • Blue Topaz • Peridot • Tsavorite Garnet • Emerald • Aquamarine • Jade Brazil ATLANTIC OCEAN • Paraìba Tourmaline • Green Tourmaline • Aquamarine • Peridot • Jade • Blue Topaz PROVENANCE SNAPSHOT TOP 5 BLUE AND GREEN GEMSTONE PRODUCING COUNTRIES Tanzania ARCTIC OCEAN • Tanzanite • Tsavorite garnet • Sapphire • Peridot • Blue spinel • Jade Sri Lanka INDIAN OCEAN • Sapphire • Peridot • Green Tourmaline • Blue Spinel • Jade SPECIAL MENTION Australia Sapphire PACIFIC OCEAN Demantoid Garnet Afghanistan Iran Italy Madagascar Nambia Russia Sapphire Australia Madagascar Myanmar (Burma) Sri Lanka Tanzania Thailand Blue Spinel Canada Myanmar (Burma) Sri Lanka Tajikistan Tanzania Vietnam Blue Zircon Cambodia Thailand Vietnam Tanzanite Tanzania Paraiba Tourmaline Brazil Jade Brazil China India Myanmar New Zealand Sri Lanka Tanzania USA Zimbabwe The world's most famous sapphire engagement ring – belonging to Diana, Princess of Wales – was not a custom-make, but rather chosen by her from the Garrard jewellery catalogue “These gems have life in them; their colours speak – say what words fail of.” GEORGE ELIOT At least 50% of the world's Emerald is sourced from Colombia The most famous collection of peridot jewellery is the Habsburg Peridot Parure, which was created by imperial jeweller Köchert in 1825 Ancient Egyptian priests would grind peridot and mix it into drinks, which they believed would give them mystical powers and knowledge $AU6.5 million Price paid for Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald Bulgari brooch Love is an emerald. Its brilliant light wards off dragons on this treacherous path." RUMI In the Middle Ages, Europeans believed sapphires could cure eye diseases 3 BILLION AGE OF THE OLDEST EMERALDS Cleopatra’s legendary emerald collection was likely peridot Lapis lazuli beads and artefacts have been found in many ancient civilisations, dating to the Neolithic age 381kg The weight of the Bahia Emerald, which contains the largest single emerald shard ever found; it is hidden in a secret vault in Los Angeles 62 | September 2021
BLUE & GREEN Colour Investigation UNDERSTANDING GEMSTONE COLOUR Every hue of green and blue Jeweller discovers the chemical and structural causes of colour in captivating natural blue and green gemstones, from Ceylon sapphires to imperial jade. Rich blue Ceylonese gemstones are the most wellknown and valuable variety of sapphire, and the standard against which other blue gems are measured. However, paler versions are still in high demand and the teal hue – a mix of blue and green – has also soared in popularity in recent years, with premium specimens sourced from Australia, Nigeria, and Montana in the US. Sapphire is corundum; an allochromatic mineral that derives colour from chemical impurities in the crystal structure. These impurities absorb specific parts of the light spectrum, and the remaining light reflected to the eye gives colour to the gemstone. Blue is caused by traces of titanium and iron; the more iron present, the darker the stone. Green sapphires also owe their colour to iron. Sapphires are often heat-treated to remove silk inclusions, thus enhancing clarity and richness of colour. Like sapphire, the vibrant colour of emerald – a form of beryl – has been adored from ancient times. Created by trace impurities of chromium and vanadium, the intense green colour is the most prized. The price drops when accompanied by a bluish tinge, and continues to devalue further when coloured a yellowish tinge from iron impurities. When the colour of beryl is too light to be called emerald, it is termed ‘green beryl’. Colombia remains the major source of emeralds, retaining the best reputation and usually commanding a price premium. However, emeralds can be sourced from many parts of 63 FULL PAGE ADVERTISEMENT Sarah Ho QUICK FACTS 85% of the gemstones mined in Sri Lanka are sapphire 1 location where tanzanite is found worldwide $42m value of the Colombia's emerald exports in 2020 ($US) the world, including Russia (the Urals have produced emeralds for more than 100 years), Zambia, Brazil, Zimbabwe, Afghanistan and Ethiopia; some emeralds from these mines will rival the best Colombian emeralds. Emeralds typically have many inclusions; the French say they have a jardin (garden) inside them. The inclusions also make emeralds a more brittle gemstone, often confused with it being soft. To help improve their clarity and colour, emeralds are treated in several ways. They are usually “oiled” at the mines – a process that uses oil to fill the cracks and inclusion spaces in a technique practised for centuries. Aquamarine is another variety of beryl, and owes its delicate blue-green palette to ferrous iron. Loved for its icy sky-blues and cool sea greens, its name originated from the Latin aqua marina, meaning ‘water of the sea’. Available in large, eye-clean gemstones, aquamarine’s colour and higher carat weights has made it popular, although deeper shades command a higher price. Most commercially-available aquamarines are heat-treated to remove yellow tones and produce a more desirable blue hue. Maxixe beryl is the name given to blue beryl with a very dark tone that is almost unnatural, unlike the softer blues of aquamarine. The colour is known to fade from deep blue to a yellowish tone in sunlight and strong artificial light or heat in a reasonably short time. The maxixe beryl’s colour is caused by a nitrate trace September 2021 | 63
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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY I
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Our Australian sapphire jewellery c
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Australia is enriched with amazing
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Helping you shine yesterday, today
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PETITE SUITES | TENDER 2020 An odys
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NEW SPRING SUMMER COLLECTION JUST R
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DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA The new ex
Page 15 and 16: Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWes
Page 17 and 18: AUGUST 2021 Contents This Month Ind
Page 19 and 20: Editor’s Desk Beyoncé, Tiffany,
Page 21 and 22: Supplying Australia Since 1974
Page 23 and 24: Michael Hill results indicate trans
Page 25 and 26: Pandora’s sales, share price on t
Page 27 and 28: Bigger is better for Lightbox labcr
Page 29 and 30: Kiwi jewellery brand moves across
Page 31 and 32: Colours of Chemgold Your Casting Sp
Page 33 and 34: SUPPORT SERVICES FOR INDEPENDENT JE
Page 35 and 36: www.centrestone.com.au CENTRESTONE
Page 37 and 38: The Original versatile jewellery br
Page 39 and 40: REVIEW Gems Unusual Opal Part I: Fi
Page 41 and 42: WHITE METALS FEATURE | The White Si
Page 43 and 44: A L L O Y S P R O M I S E P P R I C
Page 46 and 47: The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATU
Page 48 and 49: The White Side | WHITE METALS FEATU
Page 50 and 51: CELEBRATING Local Talent AHW STUDIO
Page 52 and 53: DIAMOND FEATURE Making the Cut In t
Page 54 and 55: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE Go
Page 56 and 57: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE TH
Page 58 and 59: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE Ab
Page 60 and 61: Making the Cut | DIAMOND FEATURE As
Page 62 and 63: WHEN TR A DITION A L JUST WON' T DO
Page 64 and 65: Packamate Limited Flat F, Block 2.,
Page 68 and 69: Colour Investigation | BLUE & GREEN
Page 74 and 75: BLUE & GREEN Red Carpet Collection
Page 76 and 77: Stars shine in colour | GEMSTONES I
Page 78 and 79: BUSINESS Strategy What customers wa
Page 80 and 81: BUSINESS Selling What is a store wi
Page 82 and 83: BUSINESS Marketing & PR How to crea
Page 84: My Bench Rick Southwick Rick Southw
Page 87 and 88: THE JEWELLERY INSURANCE SPECIALIST
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Jeweller - September 2021

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