Viking Traveller 2nd Issue

Foodies can opt for an optional truffle farm excursion and
watch the farmer and his dog at work—one hoping for some
“black diamonds,” as Périgord truffles are known; the other
hoping for some dog biscuits as a reward for finding them.
For us, there’s homemade lunch at the farmhouse, with every
dish featuring truffles. There are also optional excursions
to the Atlantic coast resort of Arcachon, where oysters are
farmed, and to a market in Bordeaux with a Viking chef,
which includes sampling some local delicacies.
History buffs will enjoy the included visit to Blaye Citadel,
one of a series of bastioned fortifications in France built by
Louis XIV’s outstanding military engineer, Vauban. For most
of us, however, the historic highlight of this cruise is the
charming medieval village of Saint-Émilion.
Exploring tiny Saint-Émilion, with its multitude of historic
gems, is like opening a treasure chest. The first glimpse comes
as you stand outside what’s left of the walls that once encircled
this gorgeous medieval town, even before you walk through its
centuries-old main gate. Beyond a grass-carpeted former moat
where roses now bloom stands a high, pale-gold wall, laced
with Romanesque arches and empty windows. This is all that
remains of the12th-century Cardinal’s Palace.
There are many other riches on the gradual climb to Place
du Clocher. Afterward, we walk across to the viewpoint to
look at the 13th-century castle keep, and, stretching far into
the distance, the vineyards of the renowned Saint-Émilion
red wine. As to how the town got its name, history tells of
a Breton monk called Émilion who came here in the 8th
century to live his life as a hermit.
The winding, hand-railed, cobbled streets are known as
tertres, made from stones brought as ballast on the ships
of English merchants who came here to trade wine. They
will lead you to Saint-Émilion’s most remarkable sight: the
monolithic church. It was carved out of solid rock between
500 and 700 years ago and entering it is like stepping outside
the world we know. There’s very little light and no sound,
save for voices like your own, lowered in awe.
Back in Bordeaux, there’s much more to explore on an
included city tour. The Astronomical Clock above a medieval
gateway through which pilgrims passed on their way to
Santiago de Compostela, is, like the rest of this river journey,
delightful. Our journey through the heart of French wine
country has been one to savour.
78 viking.com
X Images clockwise: Town of St. Emilion; wine bottles; Streets of
St. Emilion; Oysters; Outdoor dining table with wine, fruits and cheeses