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TRAVEL POSTCARD FROM KIEV Cassie Wilcox, enjoyed three days in the Ukrainian capital, on <strong>Viking</strong>’s Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest journey The history of Ukraine is long and exciting. Revolutions have come and gone, and the country’s liberation from the Soviet Union in 1991 saw the emergence of a proud, independent nation with a rich culture and heritage. Today, nearly 30 years on, Ukraine is undergoing a different kind of revolution, a cultural transformation in which it is emerging as an exciting travel destination, and nowhere is this more evident than in its capital, Kiev. Our journey along the Dnieper River began in Kiev, where we settled in to <strong>Viking</strong> Sineus, our beautiful home for the journey. From here, we headed out to explore the historic city, where elegant boulevards and huge squares with ornate statues and fountains lend a European flavour. The city is green with parks and forested hills, punctuated with incredible monuments, including the UNESCO-listed Monastery of the Caves. Tourists and Orthodox pilgrims alike flock to this multidomed complex of churches and monasteries, set on grassy hills overlooking the river. Founded in the 11th century, its gold-domed churches shine in the sun, and as we walked inside the walls that surround it, we were awestruck by the sound of a choir singing in the nearby Dormition Cathedral. Equally divine was the Refectory Church, with its stunning frescoes. The Church of the Saviour at Berestove is close by, recognisable by its green domes. But it is the medieval network of underground caves that is perhaps the most exotic and intriguing site, as it contains 51 mummified bodies of monks and saints. With only candles to light our way, we descended the narrow steps and filed past the open coffins whose contents are covered, save that of Saint Ilya Muromets, whose brown withered hand is visible. For pilgrims, this is the holiest site in Ukraine. The next stop on our tour was the glorious St. Sophia Cathedral. Built over nine centuries, with sections of the original 11th century brown and pink stones intact, it is the oldest standing church in Kiev. The interior is spectacular, boasting many original mosaics and frescoes, dating back to 1017-31. Our ship was docked in Kiev for three days, which is ample time to see the highlights. As well as an included daily excursion, <strong>Viking</strong> offers a number of optional tours, including a visit to Kiev War Museum, and one on which you can explore the city’s Jewish history. I opted to join our <strong>Viking</strong> chef on a trip to Kiev’s central food market. Here, we savoured a selection of traditional Ukrainian foods. Salo is a Ukrainian staple. Cured pork fat, it’s served on rye bread, washed down with a shot of vodka. The freshly baked Ukrainian bread with cheese was exquisite, as was my personal favourite – pickled cucumbers with garlic and dill. The cheesecake – made with fresh cranberries – was equally delicious. Our final day’s excursion was a 15-minute drive out of town. The Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture is a collection of more than 200 buildings, relocated from all over Ukraine. Even the roads, or dirt tracks, are authentic. Like many of the excursions on this trip, there was an ‘active’ version if you felt like walking further. Wandering around the different houses, church and school was a brilliant insight into how everyday life was lived in Ukraine. The attention to detail was extraordinary, and made even more interesting with our knowledgeable guides. Perhaps the most striking monument in Kiev is Motherland Statue. Looming on the horizon, overlooking the river, this monumental 102 metres-high warrior woman towers over everything in its sight. Inaugurated by Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev in 1981, it was the last such monument erected in Ukraine. Motherland statue is a unique and extraordinary sight as you sail out of the city, south to the Black Sea. It was a fitting finale to our stay in Kiev, and a lasting impression of the strength of this vast country, and its inspiring people. X Images clockwise: Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture; St. Sophia Cathedral in Kiev, Ukraine; Kiev skyline; Borscht; Ukrainian embroidered tablecloth; Monastery of the Caves; Motherland statue, Kiev viking.com 85