Viking Traveller 2nd Issue

TRAVEL
POSTCARD FROM KIEV
Cassie Wilcox, enjoyed three days in the Ukrainian capital,
on Viking’s Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest journey
The history of Ukraine is long and exciting.
Revolutions have come and gone, and the country’s
liberation from the Soviet Union in 1991 saw
the emergence of a proud, independent nation with a rich
culture and heritage. Today, nearly 30 years on, Ukraine
is undergoing a different kind of revolution, a cultural
transformation in which it is emerging as an exciting travel
destination, and nowhere is this more evident than in its
capital, Kiev.
Our journey along the Dnieper River began in Kiev, where
we settled in to Viking Sineus, our beautiful home for the
journey. From here, we headed out to explore the historic
city, where elegant boulevards and huge squares with ornate
statues and fountains lend a European flavour. The city
is green with parks and forested hills, punctuated with
incredible monuments, including the UNESCO-listed
Monastery of the Caves.
Tourists and Orthodox pilgrims alike flock to this multidomed
complex of churches and monasteries, set on grassy
hills overlooking the river. Founded in the 11th century, its
gold-domed churches shine in the sun, and as we walked
inside the walls that surround it, we were awestruck by the
sound of a choir singing in the nearby Dormition Cathedral.
Equally divine was the Refectory Church, with its stunning
frescoes. The Church of the Saviour at Berestove is close
by, recognisable by its green domes. But it is the medieval
network of underground caves that is perhaps the most exotic
and intriguing site, as it contains 51 mummified bodies of
monks and saints. With only candles to light our way, we
descended the narrow steps and filed past the open coffins
whose contents are covered, save that of Saint Ilya Muromets,
whose brown withered hand is visible. For pilgrims, this is
the holiest site in Ukraine.
The next stop on our tour was the glorious St. Sophia
Cathedral. Built over nine centuries, with sections of the
original 11th century brown and pink stones intact, it is the
oldest standing church in Kiev. The interior is spectacular,
boasting many original mosaics and frescoes, dating back to
1017-31.
Our ship was docked in Kiev for three days, which is
ample time to see the highlights. As well as an included
daily excursion, Viking offers a number of optional tours,
including a visit to Kiev War Museum, and one on which
you can explore the city’s Jewish history. I opted to join our
Viking chef on a trip to Kiev’s central food market. Here,
we savoured a selection of traditional Ukrainian foods.
Salo is a Ukrainian staple. Cured pork fat, it’s served on
rye bread, washed down with a shot of vodka. The freshly
baked Ukrainian bread with cheese was exquisite, as was my
personal favourite – pickled cucumbers with garlic and dill.
The cheesecake – made with fresh cranberries – was equally
delicious.
Our final day’s excursion was a 15-minute drive out of
town. The Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture is
a collection of more than 200 buildings, relocated from all
over Ukraine. Even the roads, or dirt tracks, are authentic.
Like many of the excursions on this trip, there was an ‘active’
version if you felt like walking further. Wandering around
the different houses, church and school was a brilliant insight
into how everyday life was lived in Ukraine. The attention
to detail was extraordinary, and made even more interesting
with our knowledgeable guides.
Perhaps the most striking monument in Kiev is Motherland
Statue. Looming on the horizon, overlooking the river, this
monumental 102 metres-high warrior woman towers over
everything in its sight. Inaugurated by Soviet leader Leonid
Brezhnev in 1981, it was the last such monument erected in
Ukraine. Motherland statue is a unique and extraordinary
sight as you sail out of the city, south to the Black Sea. It was
a fitting finale to our stay in Kiev, and a lasting impression of
the strength of this vast country, and its inspiring people.
X Images clockwise: Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture; St. Sophia Cathedral in Kiev, Ukraine; Kiev
skyline; Borscht; Ukrainian embroidered tablecloth; Monastery of the Caves; Motherland statue, Kiev
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