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LRyIrue LnuINATEI USS CoruSrIruTION SNIM I ... - Wood Tools

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Grid Details<br />

\" { 3tu+"<br />

\*- rT--<br />

T- /4<br />

-<br />

,'--r%'-t<br />

t\y2!L y2'irl<br />

Front and Back Grid<br />

strips for the grid pieces and for<br />

the pegs (Figure 7). To ensure<br />

that these strips can't be kicked<br />

back, use a push block that passes<br />

through the blade with the strips.<br />

Now carefully glue each grid<br />

assembly together.<br />

Squore Peg Holes<br />

Forming square holes for the pegs<br />

is a snap if you have a hollow chisel<br />

mortiser. This tool drills out most<br />

of the waste and squares the sides<br />

of a hole in one step. Fortunately,<br />

you can get the same results with<br />

a drill and sharp chisel.<br />

Iay out the peg hole locations<br />

on the frames (Frame Details).<br />

Then draw lines from corner to<br />

corner to mark the center of each<br />

layout. Chuck a1/qt'bit in your drill<br />

and bore a r/arldeep hole at each<br />

layout (Figure 8). Square the<br />

holes with a very sharp l/+rr chisel,<br />

taking your time to keep everything<br />

crisp and even (Figure 9).<br />

As you proceed, dry fit a peg<br />

strip in the holes - you want a<br />

snug fit, but not so tight that you<br />

need a mallet.<br />

Square up the peg holes with a sharp<br />

chisel. As you work on each hole, test its<br />

size with a %" Peg strip,<br />

flf<br />

?'tl<br />

I<br />

1r., Tl\f).<br />

Grid Mortises<br />

Now that you have the hang of<br />

forming square holes you can<br />

move on to forming mortises in<br />

the frames for the grid installation.<br />

Before you can form these mortises,<br />

however, you must rabbet the<br />

back of each frame opening<br />

(Frame Details). Use your router<br />

table and a rabbeting bit, making<br />

sure the bit's bearing limits the<br />

width of the cutto 1/+rr (FigUre 1O).<br />

Rout the rabbets and square the<br />

corners with a chisel, then lay<br />

each grid into its frame and outline<br />

*<br />

ril,<br />

Use a push block that can travel through<br />

the blade while ripping the grid stock to<br />

width. This will prevent kickbacks.<br />

/+" Chisel Rout /4" deep x 7n"<br />

Set up your router table with a rabbeting<br />

bit, then rout the rabbets around the<br />

opening on the back of each frame,<br />

ILI' ,<br />

T|L+-<br />

tl<br />

]LII<br />

tr+<br />

t l%"<br />

the mortise locations (Figure<br />

l1). Drill out the mortise waste<br />

with a r/qn bit, but this time drill<br />

only 1/6rr deep. Square the holes<br />

with a chisel, making sure to<br />

check the fit ofthe grids as you go.<br />

When everything fits, put a spot<br />

of glue in each mortise and press<br />

the grids into position. After the<br />

glue sets, rip l/srr-deep grooves in<br />

the frames for holding the bottom<br />

(Frame Details). You'Il need to<br />

make two passes with a standard<br />

blade to cut grooves wide enough<br />

for the | / 4n -thick hardboard.<br />

Drill holes 7a"<br />

deep, centered<br />

Tq" Forstner<br />

i.;;;;i;<br />

or brad ,^.:^..:^<br />

Begin forming square holes for the pegs<br />

by drilling with a %" bit. Be sure to align<br />

the bit with the center of each layout.<br />

The easiest and most accurate way to<br />

locate the grid mortises is to position each<br />

grid and draw around the ends.<br />

W'orkbench r December 1997<br />

33

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