Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 9

Edition 9 – March 2020
Modern
sewing
starts here..
SPRING
BEAUTY
Gorgeous fabrics to
sew this season
GIVEAWAY
Win fabric, bag
pattern and stabiliser!
wear the
TREND
5 unlined coats to make
SEW
Mindful
We catch up with Matthew Boudreaux,
AKA Mister Domestic who wants to
spread joy & positivity through sewing!
Playroom designed by Matthew Boudreaux
for Art Gallery Fabrics
PATTERN SPEAK
Getting the most from your sewing pattern
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

Editor’s Letter
Hello
Spring flowers are starting to bloom, and we’re certainly looking forward
to some better weather. This edition will definitely put you in the mood
as we take a look at the newest fabric collections from the designers at
Art Gallery Fabrics. Talking of designers, we talk to Matthew Boudreaux
(AKA Mister Domestic) about how sewing makes him feel.
Still in need of a lightweight coat, then look no further than our
feature on 5 stylish unlined versions to make. Rachel Pinheiro shares
her planning process for making her capsule wardrobe and invites
you to find out what your style is!
Happy stitching!
Hantex team
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
WIN WIN WIN!
We have 3 prizes to giveaway.
Each winner will receive a Catch
All Caddy pattern from By Annie,
Soft n Stable interfacing, and a
bundle of Playroom fabric from
Art Gallery Fabrics.
For a chance to win – click here
Closing date is
31st April 2020
BY ANNIE BAG PATTERNS
If you’re a bag maker then you’ll love this over-sized, sturdy
Catch All Caddy with lots of easy-to-access slip pockets and
dividers to hold and organise all your crafting supplies. Comfy
padded fabric handles make carrying easy and attach with
rectangle rings allowing them to fall flat along the side when
in use. Why not make more for the nursery, office, car or the
garden – this handy organiser makes a great gift too!
To view the whole By Annie bag sewing patterns – click here
#modernsewingstartshere

Focus on
FABRICS
OH MEOW!
Inspired by Jessica Swift’s two cats, this collection
celebrates all the things that feline friends love the
most. From yarn, string, and windows to peer out of,
you’ll discover a purr-fect world in these playful and
bright prints.
To find out about this fabric collection – click here
Feast your eyes on the latest fabric
collections that are perfect for spring
We’re excited to share the latest spring fabrics
from Art Gallery Fabrics. All the collections
below include cottons, rayons and knits so you
can make the most of your sewing.
BALLERINA FUSION
This AGF Designers’ collection is
inspired by a certain cosiness that
comes with quiet mornings and a
warm cup of tea! It highlights lovely
blush tones with soft, dainty and
subtle textures. Beautify your home
and bring the spring indoors with
quilts, garments, pillows and table
runners made with this fabric.
To see more from this collection
from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here
MAYFAIR
Designed by Amy Sinbaldi, this collection is
reminiscent of her visits to Shepherd Market,
Piccadilly, Hyde Park and Covent Garden.
Amy sketched the flower-filled neighbourhoods
that surrounded her beloved hotel in Mayfair
and this is reflected in this collection with
a colour palette rich of greens, plum and
marigold. This collection is ideal for home
décor as well as garments.
To view the full range of colours – click here

BRIGHT FLORAL
Feel the warmth of the coastal sun in Katie Skoog’s
latest collection, Hello Sunshine with its whimsical feel!
You’ll get to mix and match bold, vibrant prints like
fruity pineapples, chic geometrics, and birds of paradise
flowers that will have you dreaming about the carefree
days of warmer days ahead!
To view more of the lovely designs – click here
DARK & MOODY
Discover an enchanting forest that awakes at dusk,
when woodland animals come out to forage amongst
the dark, moody florals, and towering trees with the
Foresta Fusion collection by AGF Designers. Grounded
in cranberry and pine with dusted pinks, this collection
is for those whose hearts are filled with wanderlust, and
filled with gorgeous versatile florals, trees and textures.
These prints will affirm your love for the wilderness and
inspire you to make beautiful creations such as quilts,
accessories and garments.
For more information about this range – click here
WILDFLOWER
Designed by Cassidy Demkov, an artist and surface
designer from Salt Lake City for Cloud9 Fabrics. This
collection is made from 100% organic sateen cotton for
a happy you and happy earth. It features sweet floral
wildflower designs in pastel hues, which
are ideal for making beautiful garments and pretty
things for the home.
To see more from this Cloud9 collection – click here

mindful
All Matthew Boudreaux AKA Mister Domestic wants to do is spread joy &
positivity through sewing and crafting
When did you start sewing?
Although I owned a sewing
machine for much of my life,
I barely had the skill to sew
curtains that didn’t fall apart
until after my almost sevenyear-old
daughter Helena was
born in 2013.
I had always talked to my
spouse about wanting to
learn to sew and how neat it
would be to connect with our
child if we were ever blessed
to have one. Shortly after her
birth, I was gifted a couple of
apparel sewing classes for my
birthday, which was precisely
what I needed to uncork the
magic that was hiding inside
just waiting for the right
inspirational moment.
What has sewing brought
to your life?
At its core, sewing has
brought a dependable joyfilled
activity into my life that
I know I can escape into any
time that I need to re-centre
my spirit.
On a grander scale, sewing
has provided a medium,
and the Internet has given
me a platform to create a
community of like-minded
sewists, quilters and makers
that share my mission of
spreading joy and positivity.
Never in my wildest dreams
did I imagine that, at 43
years of age, me just being
my authentic self combined
with my fearless approach
to impossible projects and
colour would be the catalyst
for all this. There’s not a day
that goes by where I’m not
both inspired and grateful
by this journey, and all of
the wonderful people it has
brought into my life.
People talk about sewing as
a way of instilling an inner
hygge. Why do you think
sewing and crafting has
this effect?
Okay so first, I had no
clue what hygge was and,
now that I do – it’s my new

dared to dream in the past.
I tell everyone that I’m a
maker first, so I’m always
thinking about how different
prints and designs could
work in actual projects as I’m
designing. So it’s super cool
to then get those designs and
then make the things I was
envisioning in my head as I
was designing. It’s great to
then see others make beautiful
things with my fabrics – I am
honoured, so so privileged!
favourite thing! Sewing and
crafting are done at home
for the most part, which lends
them both to be filled with
the comforts and coziness
of home.
Add on top of that the
love that goes into every
stitch and the community
(whether online or in person)
that sewing and crafting
both inspire and you’ve got
yourself some hygge soup
right there!
Tell us about your YouTube
channel and the amazing
response that you’ve had?
For years, I was petrified to
get on YouTube. As anyone
who follows me on any of
my social media platforms
know, I unapologetically live
my truth and pride myself on
my authenticity. I spent too
many years peeling back the
layers of protective artifice to
stand firmly in my skin (warts,
vulnerabilities and all) to be
anything but me.
And YouTube is that space
on the interweb where the
most of any creator is on
display, also potentially
inviting the anonymous
hatred of trolls into their
life. But the leap to YouTube
became a business need for
Mister Domestic as I found
video the easiest way for me
to answer questions, and
share information to as many
folks as possible. I had no
idea that it would take off
like it did, and that so many
people from all across the
globe would be drawn to my
style of teaching and sharing.
Now 150+ videos in, I’ve no
plans of stopping and will
continue sharing to as many
folks as are out there that
need a little extra joy and
positivity in their lives.
What’s it like to become a
fabric designer and having
your designs in print?
It’s wild! Never in a million
years did I ever think I’d
become a fabric designer in
my 40s. The guidance and
support that I receive from
my Art Gallery Fabrics family
blows my mind and propels
me to heights that I never
If you could collaborate
with anyone in the sewing
world, who would it be
and why?
Awe, I know this is going
to sound cheesy, so be
forewarned. Honestly, I would
continue to collaborate with
the entire sewing community
online and in person. Every
day, multiple times a day,
I am awestruck and inspired
by folks in this community,
which lifts me up and both
makes me better as a creative
and makes me want to be a
better human.
The message of spreading
joy and positivity through
sewing and fabric play over
in the Mister Domestic world
isn’t something created by
me. It’s created by all of us,
and I am so honoured to be
on this journey with so many
awesome folks who just want
to keep it positive.
To view Mister Domestic
fabric collections for Art
Gallery Fabrics – click here

Designing a
CAPSULE
WARDROBE
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares how to create
your own capsule wardrobe
My favourite part of making my own
clothes is the planning, and imagining
the final result, and which elements
will make me joyfully exclaim “This
garment is so me!” To help you on your
journey, I’ve broken down some of the
key principles of the design
concept that you will need to
consider:
Silhouettes
Silhouettes provide the first
impact when people look at
what you’re wearing from afar.
Lines
These are used to emphasize
or conceal your body
shape, such as seams.
These direct our gaze and
provide the tone. Does the
garment promote the idea
of femininity and flexible
with curves or rigidity and
strength?
Repetition
Simple things like distance
between buttons can often
improve a design’s aesthetics.
Graduation or radiation
Does the main design feature
increase, decrease lines,
shapes, colours, or textures
from the centre? Is your eye
drawn towards a particular
area of a design?
Volume and texture
It’s important to choose the right fabrics
both for sewing and to the touch. The
way fabric behaves when sewn and
manipulated takes a little time to learn.
Contrast
Challenge expectations on the focus
areas. For example, a jacket that has
sleeves could be transferred into a
cape or a relaxed look using traditional
menswear tweeds.
Harmony
This relates to the overall look of your
garment, and how other elements such
as shoes and accessories bring the
whole look together to create a welldesigned
outfit.
Balance
Symmetry and vertical balance such as
mirroring – lapels, pockets and buttons;
horizontal such as top or bottom heavy
all provide symmetry.
Proportion
Look at how separate elements work
together as a whole. Each person’s
body will have its weight differently
distributed creating unique proportions.
The most common proportions in terms
of body type are pear shape, hourglass,
apple etc. Those visual representations
often reflect a silhouette. Use those
design lines to highlight your favourite
body parts.
Matching your lifestyle
Above are some basic
principles of fashion design to
consider when designing
your clothes but these
won’t mean anything if the
clothes you make don’t match
your lifestyle.
It can take a little time to
define the ‘formula’ that
creates ‘you’. Have fun
exploring when shopping
and see how your favourite
garment is cut, how it behaves
on your body, and how
comfortable it is.
What I love the most about
sewing my own wardrobe
is the ability to mix known
design elements in a manner
that feels authentic to
my style.
When looking at a pattern
try to separate the elements
such as bodice, skirt, sleeve
and neck-line, to explore the
individual design possibilities.
With just a few small basic
alterations such as hem
height, neckline placement or
changing from semi-fitted to
fitted – you can transform a
‘meh’ outfit to a ‘wow!’
COLOUR
Colour plays an important influencer,
and creating an interesting palette that
suits your personality and lifestyle. It’s
a fun part of planning your handmade
wardrobe. Use your gut instinct and
think about the hue that represents
how light or dark a colour is, as well as
saturation, which is the intensity of
a colour.

PERSONALITY
Finally, connect with your personality. We are not just one style type
but generally we will prefer one and have two others we sway towards
accordingly to your mood:
Casual
Keyword: comfort
Silhouette: relaxed
Personality: practical,
informal, and not worried
about fashion trends
Composition: simplified,
breathable, mix and match
fabrics and garment
Fabrics: linen, cotton,
sweatshirt jersey, denim,
and twill with
no texture
Colours and
prints: solid and
light colours
Classic
Keyword: timeless
Silhouette: semi-fitted,
masculine and minimalist
Personality: focussed,
reserved and professional
Composition: tailored and
straight lines
Fabric: high quality fabrics
such as crepes, silks,
and tweeds
Colours and
prints: traditional
prince of wales,
pinstripes,
neutral, browns
and camels
Contemporary
Keyword: modern
Personality: elegant and
energetic
Composition: similar to
classic but with one-of-akind
influences on lines and
balance.
Fabric: shirting, wools,
crepes, jersey, and wool-silk
mixes
Colours and prints:
trendy prints,
colours from
vibrant to discrete
Romantic
Keyword: delicacy
Personality: sensitive,
dreamer
Style: discrete designs,
sometimes retro, frills and
ruffles, volume.
Colours and prints:
pastels and florals,
Fabric: lace, chiffon,
pleated, and viscose
Click on the images to learn more about the patterns and fabrics

Click on the images to learn more about the patterns and fabrics
Sexy
Keyword: sensuality
Personality: confident,
determined and bold
Style: tight, showing skin
with cuts and length.
Colours and prints:
bold colours and
patterns
Fabrics: leather,
sequin, and
transparency
Urban
Keyword: rebel
Personality: strong-willed
Style: street, a bit rock
chick or punk
Colours and prints: black,
contrasting with metal
details
Fabrics: leather and
cotton
Creative
Keyword: uniqueness
Personality:
unconventional, free to
experiment with new
combinations, and loves
art
Style: colourful and
asymmetric
Colours and
prints: all prints
and colours
Fabrics: all
“
Make sure your
wardrobe matches
your personality as
well as your lifestyle.
“
Want to practice what you have learned?
Why not grab a copy of my book, House of
Pinheiro: Work to Weekend published by
David Charles. It contains seven full-size
patterns to create your own formula.

Pattern
SPEAK
With the introduction of the indie sewing patterns, patterns are
becoming easier to understand but if you are still baffled, Julie Bonnar
shares her tips on what you should look for
The common things on a sewing pattern:
Fabric recommendations
Sewing patterns will always suggest a few types
of fabric that have been tried and tested with the
pattern. Using the fabric
recommendations on the
envelope is a safer bet to
a successful garment!
Notions
There will always be a
list of other bits and bobs
that you will need such as
zips, elastic and thread.
Make sure you take this
list with you when you
go shopping.
Sewing level
Every pattern will have a
skill level saying whether
the pattern is easy to
make or a make for a
more advanced sewer.
Sewing patterns
marked easy or beginner
will feature simple
garments that contain
fewer pattern pieces and
don’t include zips and
trickier techniques.
Pattern layout
This will tell you what
pattern pieces you need
for each view. It will
also explain which is the
wrong and right side of
the fabric/pattern, and
how to lay the pattern out on the fabric.
Symbols
These tell you how to place the pattern on top of
the fabric, where the grain line is, which pieces need
aligning with the fabric fold, where to gather fabric,
place darts, or indicate
where a pattern can be
lengthened or shortened.
Line drawings
The flat drawn designs
on a pattern can help
you decide if you like
the overall style of the
garment, and whether
you think it will suit you
without the distraction
of fabric. Most patterns
come with several views
(variations) and on the
line drawing you can see
the differences between
the styles more easily.
Key to sizing
Multi-sized pattern pieces
will have a coloured or
style of line to denote the
different sizes to help you
cut out your size.
Fabric yardage
Here you will find how
much fabric it will take
to make this garment
based on your size. The
The pattern envelope shown here is from the Rushcutter pattern usually includes
Dress by In the Folds. To find out more – click here
the yardage amount for
both 115cm or 150cm
(45in/60in) fabric widths.
These amounts should take into account prewashing
shrinkage although it’s always a good idea
to buy a little more for patterns with a nap or those
with a print or pattern.
Visit the Pattern Finder - click here

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll
want to sew!
MADE BY RAE
An easy make
The Luna pants are loose-fitting pants with a tapered
leg and such a comfortable fit. A quick sew, these
trousers comprise of just four main pieces, with
facings attached inside to form the waistband, and
of course the must-have inseam pockets! Choose a
variety of prints and fabrics to style these for both
casual and dressier occasions in fabrics like voile,
rayon challis, shot cotton, shirting, double gauze
lawn, broadcloth, and lightweight chambray.
To view this sewing pattern – click here
THE SEWING WORKSHOP
CASHMERETTE
Cardigans are cool!
Layer up with the Fuller Cardigan! This raglan cardigan
features shoulder and bust darts for the ideal fit over
curves. Options include a mid-hip with a deep, faced
V-neck and oversized buttons, or go for a cropped at the
natural waist with a boxy fit. The pattern comes in sizes
12-32, and three-cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H).
To view all patterns from Cashmerette – click here
Weekend wardrobe
These slim tapered jeans feature a fly front zipper, front pockets
and diagonal darts below zipper, and sits at natural waist.
Featuring a trendy ankle
length with double-fold
cuff, they are stylish and
perfect for the weekend!
Make the Getaway
Jeans in stretch denim,
wovens such as twill,
or corduroy.
To find out more about
this jean sewing pattern
and more from The
Sewing Workshop –
click here

Hard to find sporting sewing
patterns for the family
Finding patterns for sporting activities
can be difficult but Jalie specialises in
finding these more sought-after patterns
RUNNING
The Cora running tights and
shorts make sewing your own
leggings a breeze. Choose
from ankle-length, seamless
between the legs, wide
waistband and a practical
pocket at the back or midthigh
shorts with leg band. This
pattern is recommended for
knit fabrics with 60% stretch
in the length and across the
width. Sizing includes girls,
women and plus sizes. Use
hardwearing fabrics and
turn these into jodhpurs or
breeches for horse riding.
BALLET
This leotard features a shelf bra lining, short and
long sleeves and ballet leg, Make with the twistfront
for added elegance!
SPORTS
SUPPORT
This comfy, airy,
modest and
stylish layered
tank gives you
the support of
a sport’s bra
underneath but
the modesty of a
flowing tank. The
wide hem band
keeps the top in
place. It’s ideal
for wearing for
exercise classes.
To view these sewing patterns and others
from Jalie – click here
GYMNASTICS
The Tessa Leotard has long sleeves, V-waist and optional inset for a
V-neck illusion that totally transforms this practical design. Add the quick
and easy to sew circle skirt for a skating dress.
YOGA
Keep calm and relax in these yoga pants.
Fitted through the hips and thighs for extra
comfort, and slightly flared from the knee
down. The wide faced two-piece waistband
allows for fun colour blocking, and a seam
at the back of the leg provides flattering
fit and easy adjustment. A shorts pattern is
also included which are great for the beach,
dance classes or the gym. Make in knit
fabric that has 50% stretch across the grain
and length. This pattern has sizing for girls,
women and plus sizes.
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill
level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Trendsetter
light and airy
5 unlined coats to sew for spring
Alston Reversible Jacket
Sew to Grow
An oversized jacket with raglan sleeves and dramatic
cascading collar is perfect for layering, and what’s
more it’s reversible! It looks fabulous in linen
or vintage broadcloth.
To find out more about this pattern – click here
Ulysses Coat
Victory Patterns
This long line jacket mixes trench coat styling such as
shoulder epaulettes, vent and curved back rain guard
overlay with modern looks. Why not make the inside
as good as the outside with bound seams. This pattern
is perfect for making in medium-weight fabric with high
drape like Tencel twill, soft linen; double weave crepe,
and bamboo twill.
To view this sewing pattern - click here
Sienna Maker Jacket
Closet Case Files
A chic utility jacket inspired by vintage
French workwear. This stylish outerwear
is a highly practical layer for use
wearing outside, and in the studio
for makers.
With a slightly dropped shoulder,
Sienna features a crisp notched collar,
which can be worn buttoned at the
neck with an optional snap button.
To find out more about this maker’s
coat – click here

4 5
Swing Coat
Cambria Duster
Folkwear Patterns
This easy breezy coat is a cinch to make with just four
Friday Pattern Company
main pattern pieces. Sleeves are narrow at the wrist so
This unlined duster is a versatile and great transseasonal
piece. It has a dramatic, wide draped shawl-
put. The coat offers two pocket options – side-seam and
you can push them up for a casual look and they will stay
style collar, and a flattering shin length. Secure the ties patch. Choose fabrics that drape but still have body such
in back for a clean, shapely look, or wrap them around as lightweight linen gabardine (rayon wool or cotton),
in front for a little more coverage. Designed for woven lightweight denim and soft cotton twill. For a crisp
fabrics such as rayon twill, gabardine, and rayon challis – sculptured evening look consider silk taffeta or for a sheer
it would also look great made in light wool or boucle! translucent style with silk organza.
To view this sewing pattern - click here
To find out more about this lovely pattern – click here
Fabrics suitable for sewing lightweight coats
Linen Slub
The viscose and linen
blend from Modelo
wrinkles less and is
soft on the skin.
To view all the
colourways
– click here
Linen Blends
This premium linen
blend from Art Gallery
Fabrics is the ideal for
a coat staple.
To see more colours
– click here
Rayon
Rayon is the ultimate
soft drapeable fabric.
To view the Art Gallery
Fabrics collection
– click here
Ponte Roma
Perfect for lightweight
garments like coats.
To see more of this
Modelo range
– click here
Springfield Denim
This denim from
Modelo is great
quality and comes in
stretch and non-stretch
options.
To view more
– click here

HARTFORD NEEDLECORD
Cord is back and has lost its
old-fashioned image. With the
Hartford fine stretch needlecord
collection, you can look forward
to beautiful vibrant colours. This
mix of cotton and elastane makes
for a particularly durable fabric
but still with a wonderfully soft
feel. It’s perfect for making jeans,
dungarees, skirts, jackets, hats
WHAT’S
and bags!
To view the full collection
– click here
NEW
We keep you posted on the latest launches
This edition, we concentrate on keeping you up-to-date with
the new fabric releases that Modelo Fabrics has to offer
dressmakers. Modelo offers good quality along with the
latest trend-driven colours. With many now offering
OEKO-TEX environmental certification the fabrics are also
kinder to the environment.
RIGA ALPEN FLEECE- BACKED
SWEATSHIRT
Who doesn’t love a cosy sweatshirt to lounge
around in? The double-sided super-soft
Alpen has a fleece finish on one
side and a sweatshirt finish on the
other side. Snuggly yet practical,
it’s perfect for sweatshirts, tops
and sweatpants, and comes in 17
pretty colours.
To see more from this
super-soft range –
click here
MILANO VISCOSE HEATHERED JERSEY KNIT
The viscose jersey has a slightly softer feel than the Hoxton Heathered
and contains 5% elastane for stretch! It comes in 14 plain colours, as
well as two beautiful prints.
To view the complete range of colours – click here
HOXTON
HEATHERED
JERSEY KNIT
This collection features
some beautifully rich
colours with 10 bold colour
ways to choose from. This fabric
has 10% elastane making it perfect
for making garments that need
stretch such as dresses and tops.
To find out more about this jersey
range – click here