Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 8

Edition 8 – January 2020
Modern
sewing
starts here...
SPRING
REFRESH
key trends for this
season to top up your
handmade wardrobe
FEAST YOUR
EYES
on the latest
fabric releases!
The latest sewing patterns
that you’ll want to sew!
Sew &
Nurture
We talk to Heather
Lou from Closet Case
who blends her love of
sewing, learning and
the community
New Pure Solid Fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
www.hantex.co.uk 1

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Editor’s Letter
Hello
A belated happy New Year to you all! If you have the January blues then having
a read through this edition of Modern Sewing Starts Here will be sure to kick-start
your sewing.
This edition, we’re delighted to chat with Heather Lou about her sewing pattern
brand, Closet Case Patterns. With spring on its way, we look at three key trends to
sew, and Rachel Pinheiro discusses how she will be adding candy shades
to her handmade wardrobe this season.
Be inspired by Sarah Ashford as she shares ideas for using the
new Pure Solids Fabric Bundles from Art Gallery Fabrics. Also
we catch up with the latest sewing pattern releases.
Happy stitching!
Hantex team
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
WIN WIN WIN!
We have one Prymdonna
dressform to giveaway. It’s
available in four different
sizes. For a chance to win –
click here
Closing date is
28th February 2020
AN EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS!
Whether you’re a professional tailor or sew for a hobby,
the Prymadonna dressform can offer more flexibility
when it comes to making adjustments to your clothing.
It consists of eight parts and can be individually
adjusted at the neck, bust, waistline and hips with 13
adjustments in total. The rotatable body is made of
plastic and covered with a foam-reinforced nylon cover.
Adjustments can be made in both inches and
centimetres using the knobs on the front, and the
adjustment wheels on the sides and rear. The waist
length’s height can also be adjusted and the neck
circumference can be changed using the knob placed
in the middle of the neck area - this also contains an
integrated pincushion. This dressform range has an
elaborated shoulder section that ensures that the
sleeves always fall in the right position.
You can mark your perfect hem length and the
lightweight plastic pedestal nad four feet give it a really
stable base.There are four sizes to choose from xs, s, m
and l.
To view the complete Prymadonna range of
dressforms – click here
#modernsewingstartshere

Stitch up a spectrum
OF COLOUR
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover
shares her ideas for using the latest Pure Solids
Bundles from Art Gallery Fabrics
If there’s one thing that gets
a quilter’s heart racing it’s the
sight of a fat quarter bundle,
especially if it’s a fat quarter
bundle that’s packed with
gorgeous ombre shades
across a spectrum of colours.
Introducing Art Gallery
Fabric’s Pure Solids bundle
– the Summering Edition. It’s
made up of no less than 25
beautiful fat quarters – be still
my beating heart!
Ideas for makes
The possibilities with 25
shades are literally endless.
I think they lend themselves
extraordinarily well to
traditional quilt blocks,
as they put a wonderfully
modern spin on blocks that
are steeped in history and of
a time gone by. I’ve had fun
making the classic pineapple
block, incorporating ten of
the colours, and doesn’t it
look striking? A block like this
is just so well suited to bold,
solid blocks of colour. I also
think the humble hexagon
is a thing of beauty, and I’ll
never tire of making them!
Appliqué them to zipper
pouches, cushions, table
runners, or why not stitch
them all together to make a
wonderful ombre quilt.
You really can have so
much fun with light and
shade with this fabric
collection. I’ve also made
some foundation paper
pieced heart blocks that
would look wonderful
incorporated into a project;
perhaps for coasters,
placemats, a cushion or for
the more ambitious a whole
quilt. There’s pretty much a
50/50 split of warm and cool
tones in this collection, so
you could mix them up, or
stick with the cool blues and
deep shades of turquoise
together. Or why not use the
warm, candy shades together
for a pretty, pinktastic project!
For both quilters and
dressmakers though, it’s not
just about the colour but also
the feel of the fabrics. The
Pure Solids have a beautiful
drape and suppleness. Being
100% premium cotton, they
have a high quality, luxurious
feel. It really has been a joy
to stitch with them and I
know you’re going to love
stitching with them too.
Editor’s notes
To view the complete
collection of Pure Solids
from Art Gallery Fabrics –
click here

and nurture
Heather Lou blends her love of sewing, learning and the community
What inspired you to start
Closet Case Patterns?
I didn’t know I was starting
a brand when I released our
first pattern (the Bombshell
swimsuit back in 2013). It
was very much one step at a
time until I realised that what
I was doing was sustainable
enough to support myself (and
eventually a small but mighty
team too!)
What motivates me
is creating unique,
interesting designs that help
facilitate learning and skill
development. We want sewers
to be excited by a pattern
and learn new things while
making it. Being a part of that
empowering journey is why I
get up in the morning!
What would you say sets
your patterns apart from
other indie designers?
First and foremost is our
effort to really nurture
and encourage building
your sewing skills. Most
of our patterns are at the
intermediate or advanced
level, and we offer loads of
resources to help people on
their way, be it through online
workshops, sewalongs or
sewing tutorials.
While I love a quick sew
as much as the next person
(that’s partly why we designed
our beginner-friendly Rome
Collection!). I think the real fun
happens when you can really
sink your teeth into a project
and learn something new.
I think we also stand
out because of our focus
on interesting details and
construction methods. We’re
always trying to find the
best, most fun way to put
something together.
You’ve always released
patterns individually –
what made you decide
to launch your first
pattern collection?
I had a strong idea for a small
pattern collection that could
work as a capsule wardrobe,
and I was excited to think
about our patterns from a

The online sewing world really feels like a
safe, welcoming place in the black hole that
is often the internet! Sewing people are the
best people ever! First and foremost. Closet
Case aims to nurture and encourage building
your sewing skills. I think we also stand out
because of our focus on interesting details
and construction methods. We’re always
trying to find the best, most fun way to put
something together!
The Ginger Jeans
pattern is probably one
of the best-known jeans
pattern around. Why do
you think sewists love it
so much?
I think it works because it
seems to fit a lot of folks
right out of the package.
Over the years, we’ve also
created so much supportive
content for Ginger, from a
sewalong to a jean making
ebook to an online course
I think customers feel really
supported and encouraged
making it. I’m proud of how
we demystified ‘scary’ jean
making for so many people!
What pattern plans do
you have for next year?
We had so much fun putting
together our Rome collection
that we’re planning another
one in the coming year. It’s
still in concept mode but
we’re getting excited about it.
We’ll also be releasing a few
new standalone patterns, in
addition to getting as many
older sewing patterns into
extended sizing as possible.
It’s going to be a busy year!
more conceptual, thematic
place. The Rome collection
was such a success, and we’ll
likely continue to do it yearly,
with stand-alone patterns still
released on a regular basis.
Tell us about your
newest sewing pattern,
the Sienna Jacket?
This is one of my favourite
patterns ever! It’s inspired by
vintage French workwear and
is meant to work as a studio
jacket with lots of pockets
for maker tools, or as a cute
wrap or chore jacket out in
the world. It’s a really creative
with a unique design, and
the first available in our new
extended 14-30 range. I
can’t wait to see how people
make it their own since there
are so many options for
personalising it.
What do you most like
about being part of the
sewing community?
The sewing community itself!
I’ve been blogging about
sewing for more than eight
years, and it never ceases
to amaze me how kind,
supportive and smart sewists
are!
I have met some of my best
friends through sewing, even
people who are technically my
competitors!
The online sewing world
really feels like a safe,
welcoming place in the black
hole that is often the internet!
Sewing people are the best
people ever!

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll
want to sew!
CASHMERETTE
Date night
Embrace your romantic side with the Alcott
Dress! This dreamy fixed wrap dress features
an empire waist and two design variations.
Choose a knee-length full skirt, cap or elbowlength
flutter sleeves, and optional maternityfriendly
silhouette, or opt for the drama of a
ruffled midi skirt and long, ruffled sleeves.
To view more patterns from Cashmerette –
click here
LIESL & CO
Shirt-style
The Camp features a classic convertiblecollar
blouse and dress with a yoke and
optional pockets. The blouse consists
of a curved hem and long sleeves with
a button cuff and tower placket, while
the dress features a curvy hem and
cuffed short sleeves. The pattern also
includes separate pieces for A/B, C,
and D cup sizes to help you get the
perfect fit.
To find out the new patterns from
Liesl & Co – click here
FRIDAY PATTERN
COMPANY
Nice day for knits
The Westcliff Dress is an easy to sew
dress for knit fabrics with at least
25% stretch. It features a wrap front
with full coverage and a neckline
that won’t gape! There is an optional
lower tier to make this dress a maxi.
The pattern also includes a tutorial
on how to turn this dress into a cute
cropped top. The pattern includes
sizes XS-4X and cup size options
B and D.
To find out more about this pattern
and others from the Friday Pattern
Company – click here

SEW TO GROW
Sew, repeat and reverse!
Wrap up in the Alston Jacket as the chill sets into the air. This oversized jacket with
raglan sleeves and stylish cascading collar is perfect for layering over your winter
woollies. Make as a reversible jacket in linen or vintage broadcloth for a substantial
layering piece or go with a single layer boiled wool for a truly classic piece.
Sweeping silhouette
The Frankie Shift pairs perfectly with a soft drapey
fabric like rayon, or for a more casual and carefree look
make in linen. This dress features clever side panel
pockets, optional tie belt, and can be made with
flutter sleeves or a sleeveless version.
The Bondi has more to offer!
The Bondi Top is one of Sew to Grow’s best-selling
patterns and a wardrobe staple. The basic Bondi has
been given a total revamp, and you now have more
options to give this pattern a new leash of life! In
the new extension pack there’s instructions to attach
sleeves, lengthen your top into a dress or tunic,
add a casing and pockets!
To view these three new sewing patterns and more
from Sew to Grow – click here
The Sewing Workshop
Biker-style
The Brando jacket is a semi-fitted moto jacket with princess
seams, inset pockets and notched collar. It’s fully lined and
perfect for making with heavy to medium weight fabrics.
Comfortable and easy to sew
The hip-length Hugo is a quick to sew top that has a
neat front pleat and hidden button placket and stylish
sleeve bands.
To view the complete sewing pattern range from
The Sewing Workshop – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill
level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Cherry,
Round
Elements
Pomelo,
Oval
Elements
FUNKY FLEECE
Modelo has just brought out a lovely
super soft Alpen fleece fabric. It’s
made from polyester, and cotton with
a touch of Elastane for stretch. This
fleece fabric is a little special as it
features a delicate foil printed star or
heart design heart on one side and
a soft snuggly lining on the other.
It comes in four colour ways – The
star fleece comes in grey and cream
and the hearts in cream and pink. It’s
perfect for making warm and cosy
jackets,pyjamas and onesies!
To view the complete collection of Foil Printed Fleece
Fabric – click here
Focus on
FABRICS
Feast your eyes on the latest
beautiful fabric collections
Moss,
Nature
Elements
Cobaltic,
floral
Element
Apricot
Sunstone,
Prisma
Elements
Gold, Lace
Elements
BOUCLE-STYLE
Are you thinking about making a coat? This versatile
double-sided wool-style coat fabric is one of the
newest fabrics from Modelo! It’s polyester/viscose
blend makes it machine washable, very practical and
also good value. It’s long-lasting, which coupled with
the fact that we treasure the garments we make means
less environmental impact. This coat fabric comes in 19
different colours so there is bound to be one for you!
To view the full range of colours available – click here
Noir,
Squared
Elements
CABLE JACQUARD
Modelo has just released a stunning knitted cable jersey
fabric that’s extremely stretchy. It comes in a lovely range
of colours including oatmeal, black, grey, claret, grape,
mauve, denim, olive, lime and aqua. It is perfect for
making the latest knit dresses as well as coatigans, sweaters,
jumpers and scarves.
To view the full range of colours available – click here
THE PERFECT MATCH
Art Gallery Fabrics’ ranges of
100% poplin cotton solids and
blenders are stunning. With pure
colour, softness and beauty,
the Elements ranges are now
available in co-ordinated bundles.
The purest hues now meet
Art Gallery Fabrics’ soft hand,
superior quality and has the
lowest shrinkage rate. Ranging in
a vibrant assortment of colours,
the new improved dip-dye
technique lead to the most
brilliant colours ever, and are
Oeko-Tex certified, so the dyes
are the most environmentally safe
to use. They almost don’t fray,
making them ideal for all kind of
sewing projects.
The collections include:
Round Elements – a perfect match for other Art Gallery
Fabrics’ collections, adding simplicity and elegance with
curated colours that we all love.
Prisma – mix, match and mismatch with every stash
there is! The classic geometric form and colours become
one with surrounding prints, these are the new go-to
blenders for harmonious creations.
Squared – a fun graphic blender in yummy hues that are
ideal for modern sewing and quilting projects!
Nature Elements – a blender with a fresh and modern
approach. An easy flowing design that’s suitable to be
used with most fabric collections!
Floral Elements – a line of blenders with a fresh attitude!
This pretty design has a large-scale floral motif with vivid
hues in several shades.
Oval Elements – a modern blender with lovely tones for
lots of quilting and sewing project.
To view more from the Pure Solid and Elements
collections – click here

Cloud9 Fabrics use only 100% organic
cotton in the manufacturing of its base
cloths and eco-responsible low impact
dyes for printing and dying. They work
closely with mills that are committed to
ethical and responsible conduct.
Here are some of the latest collections
GOOD VIBRATIONS
This organic quilters cotton has a real ‘70s feel, and
features some cute retro designs and colours.
Designed by Elizabeth Olwen, a Canadian print
and pattern designer has used her work on several
fabric ranges from Cloud9 and prides herself on
creating highly considered patterns and illustrations
that are lovingly assembled.
To find out more about the Good Vibration fabric
collection – click here
Available
Jan 2020
Available
Mar 2020
LISBON SQUARE
This fabric range has been designed by Heather Moore, aka
Skinny laMinx. Heather’s simple, clean pattern designs have
an unusual colour palette and inspired by everyday things,
her love of mid-century style and a dose of African chic!
To find out more about this collection – click here
Available
Feb 2020
WILDFLOWER
The beautiful Wildflower
collection has been designed
by surface pattern designer,
Cassidy Demkov for Cloud9.
This cotton sateen fabric
features intricate floral
patterns, lovely art illustrations
inspired by her love of
travelling, flowers, animals and
vintage things.
To view more designs from
the Wildflower collection –
click here

Support your
SEWING
Julie Bonnar shares her simple guide to choosing interfacing
There are hundreds of
interfacings out there, and it
can be confusing choosing
the right one for your sewing
project.
What is interfacing?
Interfacing is an inner fabric
that’s used in construction,
and lays between the fabric
layers to give it extra shape,
support and strength.
Where to use
interfacing?
Interfacing can be used in
waistbands, collars, necklines
and anywhere that needs
additional support on
garments. It’s also used for
home décor projects, hats
and bag making.
Types of interfacing
• Woven • Non-woven
• Knit • Foam • Tape
Woven interfacing:
Woven interfacing has a
lengthwise and crosswise
grain so it’s important that
the layers work together. This
interfacing is used for more
tailored garments.
Non-woven interfacing:
Non-woven interfacing is
made of bonded fibres and
resembles mesh. This cuts
easily in any direction and
won’t unravel making it
perfect for using with stretch
fabrics.
Knit interfacing:
Knit interfacing is soft and
flexible, It has a crosswise
stretch but little lengthwise.
This type is suitable for
fabrics such as jersey and
other knit fabrics.
Foam interfacing:
Foam interfacing is made
from lightweight foam, which
is sandwiched between two
layers of a soft and ultrathin
tricot fabric. It’s flexible,
lightweight and perfect for
bag making.
To find more foam
interfacings – click here
Tape interfacing
These are perfect for seams
in soft stretch fabrics and
areas where stretch occurs.
It protects your fabric from
warping and fraying, and is
easier to sew by machine.
To view more tape
interfacings – click here
All of the interfacings
mentioned come in fusible,
and sew-in versions as well
as different weights so you
can get the ideal match for
your project.
Sew-in
This type is sewn on to the
main fabric just like a normal
layer of fabric, and is easy to
use. It can provide a more
natural drape, and can be
used with fabrics that are
heat-sensitive like lace, mesh,
textured and napped fabrics.
To see the complete range of
sew-in interfacings – click here
Fusible
This interfacing is backed
with a special adhesive that
melts and bonds to the fabric
when pressed with an iron.
It’s a quick option but always
test on a fabric scrap first.
To see more fusible
interfacings – click here
Heat and Bond Soft Stretch Lite is a sew-able,
lightweight iron-on web adhesive designed to move
with your stretch fabric but avoids adding any bulk.
It’s great to use with knits, stretch denim, spandex,
jersey fabrics, fleece and flannel.
Pre-shrinking
Just like all fabrics, interfacings
need to be pre-shrunk. Sew-in
versions can be pre-shrunk by
press steaming and fusibles by
immersing in hot water. Once
cool, roll out in a towel to
remove excess moisture, and
then air dry.
7 tips for choosing and
using interfacing
1. Choose an interfacing that is
lighter or the same weight as
your fabric.
2. If your fabric can be
ironed, then always choose
a fusible interfacing.
3. Select the right colour of
interfacing for your project.
If your fabric is a dark, then
choose a dark interfacing or if
it is light choose a light one.
4. There is a right and a wrong
side to most interfacing.
Fusible products have a dot
adhesive that you can see or
feel, and the fusible side will
be shiny.
5. Always try a few different
weights of interfacing, and test
to see which works best with
your chosen fabric. Always
press from the interfacing
side first and then press from
the fabric side to ensure a
good bond applying an even
pressure with the iron, lifting
and placing back down to
overlap the previous area.
6. Always read and
follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations.
7. Protect your ironing board
and fabrics. To remove fusible
residue from fabric, iron with
a dryer sheet or use adhesive
spot remover and use a hot
iron cleaner to remove any
fusible residue on the iron.

STORAGE SOLUTIONS LARGE AND SMALL
Prym has an extensive range of storage ideas to solve your sewing storage problems. The
meadow sewing basket has a pretty, romantic floral design and will become a real eyecatcher
in your sewing room. It will offer a plenty of storage space and helps you keep all
your sewing tools tidy.
The trendy all-in-one Needle & Thread craft bag is perfect for storing, and the comfortable
shoulder strap makes it easy for carrying. Twelve loops and eight transparent inner pockets
offer lots of possibilities for storing your sewing bits and bobs.
Denim blue is timeless and this denim-coloured sewing machine trolley combines practicality
with functionality. It will hold any domestic sewing machine and protect it from dirt and shocks
while the straps keep your sewing machine secure inside. There are plenty of pockets and compartments
for additional accessories. The stable telescopic handle and smooth-running castors make it easy to take to
sewing courses and on holiday.
For more storage options – click here
WHATS
NEW
We keep you posted of the latest launches
QUILT LOVELINESS
Imagine living in a pretty quilter’s cottage with
flowers on the gate and quilts drying on the line.
Go through the gate, past the zinnia bush and up
the cobblestone path, to receive a warm welcome
at the pink painted door. Lori Holt’s new Quilter’s
Cottage book takes you on this journey, and is a
sweet reminder that home is where the heart is, so
make it beautiful! The book includes instructions
for the 74.5in by 89in quilt and coordinating
projects. To see more - click here
COSY CUSHIONS
Pillow Talk by Edyta Star of Laundry Basket
Quilts is a lovely book that features 25
cushion covers that will give your home
a fresh look whatever the season. Discover
new designs for holidays, seasons, styles,
and sentiments along, as well as learning
different techniques like appliqué and
paper piecing in these quick-to-sew
cushion projects.
To find out more about this book –
click here

SEW THE TREND:
Candy Hues
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro’s shares
how she has added candy shades to her wardrobe
Pastel shades were a big last spring,
and are set to stay on trend through
spring 2020. It is not surprising that the
pastel trend has survived from the hot
days to the colder months. Soft hues
are a classic spring staple but I feel
pastels are set to become even more
popular for winter than for spring.
These romantic candy hues are
bound to sweeten up your style. There
seems to be quite a number of pastel
colours to choose from this season,
from pale blue, to blush, mint and lilac,
and it’s a refreshing break from all the
beige and brown. One specific pastel
shade I’ve been crushing on recently is
sky blue. This icy shade is perfect for
winter but will carry over for those
chillier early-spring days too.
Tips for sewing this fabric:
Use a walking foot. This helps
you in moving this fluffy texture
fabric when sewing.
Always sample your stitches for
best results. I used a 90/14 sharp
needles and a cotton, polyester or
blend thread.
Be very careful with ironing
and pressing. Bouclé fabrics can
easily be damaged when it’s being
ironed too hot or pressed too hard.
Making a conscientious wardrobe is
very important especially as trends are
often viewed as ‘one off- fast fashion’.
Trends can be made into key pieces
to help update your current wardrobe,
and also get the most use from your
current garments.
The pattern I picked to make this
month is the Flynn Jacket from In the
Folds. This oversized boyfriend fit style
coatigan contrasts really well with the
feminine charm of pastels. This contrast
is crucial for creating an edgier look.
I chose to make in bouclé wool.
It’s heavier weight that the pattern
recommends so it was important to make
a sample before cutting my project.
This unlined sewing pattern has a
dropped shoulder and an inverted box
pleat in the back. The suggested finish
uses bias binding that you can buy
readymade or make it with your favourite
print. The inside of the fabric looks as
pretty as the outside, and this project is
a good stepping stone for someone that
have never sewn outer wear before.
Editor’s notes
The Flynn jacket is a loose-fitting
jacket designed for woven fabrics.
With two different styles, it is the
perfect layering piece. The coatigan
features a wrap around collar, highlow
hem and in-seam pockets.
and can be worn open, or closed
discreetly with a hook and eye.
To view this pattern – click here
The bouclé fabric is from Modelo
and is a versatile double-sided,
wool-style, which is perfect for coat
making! It’s poly/viscose blend
makes it machine washable, and
great value.
To see more colourways for this
bouclé fabric – click here

Trendsetter
3 key trends to top up your handmade wardrobe this season
Fading darts
denim print from
Art Gallery Fabrics
Cambria
Duster from
Friday Pattern
Co - click here
Cerise Slub
Stretch Denim
Fabric from
Modelo
Jenny Overalls
from Closet
Case patterns
– click here
Denim Mash-Up!
Update the hardest working garments in your wardrobe
and refine your denim style with pastel and bright
colours, dainty prints and the latest pattern styles.
To find more denim fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics
and Modelo – click here
Blank Canvas
Wafting white fabrics are a key trend. Add them to your
wardrobe to make garments that will go with other items
but are practical too. These are also easily teamed up
with spring colours to work for lots of occasions. Choose
fabrics like linen, rayon challis, cotton voile, and chiffon.
Joan Dress
from Sew Over
It - click here
Joan Trousers
from Friday
Pattern Co -
click here
Soft Tailoring
Soft tailoring describes a
style of construction that’s
more relaxed, simple,
and set to be popular this
season. Choose oversized
jackets, fitted dresses, ankle
grazing trousers and brightly
coloured fabrics to give
yours a contemporary feel.