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Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 33

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing. In this edition ... Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases. Making a Spring Capsule wardrobe using pattern designs from the popular Wardrobe By Me range. Trend Setter ... High-Rise - This season’s trouser trend & tips to embark on your sewing journey of trouser-making. Muted Fabrics - Fableism, the new and popular fabric brand, shares why its fabrics are giving textile lovers beautiful neutral fabrics for modern sewing. Boro Inspired Rug Mug ... Sarah Ashford shares her sweet slow-stitched little project. Focus On Fabrics ... See the latest fabric releases. + More ...

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing.

In this edition ...

Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases.

Making a Spring Capsule wardrobe using pattern designs from the popular Wardrobe By Me range.

Trend Setter ... High-Rise - This season’s trouser trend & tips to embark on your sewing journey of trouser-making.

Muted Fabrics - Fableism, the new and popular fabric brand, shares why its fabrics are giving textile lovers beautiful neutral fabrics for modern sewing.

Boro Inspired Rug Mug ... Sarah Ashford shares her sweet slow-stitched little project.

Focus On Fabrics ... See the latest fabric releases.

+ More ...

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<strong>Modern</strong><br />

sewing<br />

starts here..<br />

<strong>Edition</strong> <strong>33</strong> - April 2024<br />

PICK OF THE<br />

PATTERNS<br />

The latest sewing pattern<br />

releases for you to sew!<br />

HIGH-RISE<br />

This season’s trouser trend &<br />

tips to embark on your sewing<br />

journey of trouser-making<br />

FOCUS ON<br />

FABRICS<br />

Discover the latest fabric<br />

collections for the seasons ahead!<br />

Muted Fabrics<br />

Fableism share why its fabrics are giving<br />

textile lovers beautiful neutral fabrics for<br />

modern sewing<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Mitchell Trousers from Closet Core


Pattern Finder<br />

www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder<br />

Find the perfect pattern for your next project …<br />

search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season<br />

Pattern Finder<br />

Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers


Editor’s Letter<br />

Now that the clocks have sprung forward, and there are more<br />

daylight hours, it’s time to ramp up your sewing!<br />

Take inspiration from our interview with Andrea Patton – the<br />

founder of the boutique fabric manufacturer, Fableism, whose<br />

fabrics are giving textile lovers beautiful muted fabrics for modern<br />

sewing.<br />

Sitting comfortably, the high-waist trouser is top of the style list<br />

for this season and is such a comfortable style to wear. We share<br />

four of our favourite patterns that you are going to want to make<br />

this season. Julie Bonnar shares her tips on things you need to think<br />

about when choosing both the pattern and fabric for your next pair<br />

of trousers.<br />

Sarah Ashford has a sweet little project to make lovely little mug<br />

rugs to brighten your coffee mornings while Jacqui Smith shares<br />

her curated Spring wardrobe of three garments from Wardrobe By<br />

Me that will take you through the trasitional seasons.<br />

And of course, we take a look at the latest sewing patterns and<br />

newest fabric collections to hit the shelves. Unitl next time, from<br />

the team at<br />

<strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong><br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Subscribe and never miss the latest copy of <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong> - click here<br />

#modernsewingstartshere


Focus on<br />

FABRICS<br />

Discover the latest fabric collections for the warmer seasons ahead!<br />

The latest fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabrics:<br />

Melodic<br />

Blooms Sweet<br />

Rythm Fresh<br />

Love Notes<br />

Fresh<br />

MIX THE VOLUME<br />

Find balance and creativity with this beautiful muted addition to AGF’s low-volume series. This collection transitions from sweet<br />

tunes with soft blush and lavender tones to fresh tunes in warm green and amber tones. Mix and match to your heart’s content!<br />

Eidelweiss<br />

Crescent<br />

Charm<br />

Sweet<br />

Nostalgia<br />

SOUL FUSION<br />

Unleash your wanderlust, embrace the mystical vibes, and let your free spirit soar. This range invites you to express yourself with<br />

soulful elegance through an exotic mix of boho-inspired styles with intricate patterns to floral designs to elevate your sewing<br />

projects. Let your creativity run wild, and discover the most soulful way.<br />

To find a stockist near you of the latest Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here


All Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

collections contain 100%<br />

premium cottons with<br />

many of the ranges<br />

including rayon, flannel,<br />

canvas and knit<br />

options too.<br />

Maiolica in<br />

Rinascimento<br />

Tuscan<br />

Millefiori<br />

Duomo<br />

Piastrelle<br />

FLORENCE<br />

Embark on a mesmerising tour of Florence’s Renaissance treasures through<br />

Katarina Roccella’s artful florals and geometric motifs. Drawing inspiration from<br />

masterpieces at Duomo, Uffizi, and Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, her work pays<br />

homage to Botticelli’s terracotta tones and heavenly blues, celebrating the divine<br />

beauty and richness of the world.<br />

Eclectic Streaks<br />

Ablaze<br />

Petal<br />

Lattice<br />

Wild<br />

Majestic<br />

THE FLOWER FIELDS & THE FLOWER SEEDS<br />

Influenced by vintage nursery rooms and the idea that a window is a magical passage that connects the inside world with the outside<br />

world. This fabric range lets in the light with the scent of the flowers and the sound of buzzing insects so that everything starts to<br />

move beautifully in sync! This collection is perfect for making dresses, blouses and home accessories.<br />

To find a stockist near you of the latest Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here


Brand new fabric collections from Cloud9 Fabrics:<br />

WILD HAVEN<br />

This 100% quilter’s cotton fabric collection has<br />

been designed by surface designer, Juliana Tipton.<br />

Her background in printmaking often influences<br />

the graphic nature of her work, while her interest<br />

in classic design is evident in the unusual level of<br />

detail throughout. This collection is a celebration<br />

of the untamed beauty and serenity of wild places.<br />

Where every bloom and creature thrives in the<br />

wildness of their home. It’s a vibrant wonder, where<br />

nothing and everything is perfect and solace<br />

blooms at every turn.<br />

Woven<br />

Foxy Daisies<br />

Glorious Morn<br />

Baking Book<br />

Bakery Cakes<br />

Piece of Cake!<br />

Recipe Tin<br />

BUTTERCREAM<br />

Inspired by mid-century children’s baking<br />

books and a Grandmother’s prized collection<br />

of recipe tins. Emily Taylor’s new collection<br />

offers sewists a sugary and playful array of<br />

prints perfectly delectable for every cakeloving<br />

sewist! The designs are perfect for<br />

adding a fun feel to your next sewing project<br />

for the home.<br />

RECOLLECT<br />

Tara Barr is an oil painter who creates fun nostalgic pop art inspired by her passion for history, technology, and design and has<br />

a strong interest in engaging the public in the creative process and encouraging everyone to dedicate time to creative pursuits.<br />

Step back in time with this collection designed by her featuring an array of retro items rendered in a nostalgic pop art style. All<br />

fabrics in this collection are 100% organic cotton canvas.<br />

To see more collections from Cloud9 Fabrics - click here


Brand new from Modelo:<br />

Grey Denim Raspberry Navy<br />

TULLUM SCUBA<br />

This Scuba has a super soft feel, with great stretch and recovery making it perfect for activewear as well as garments where<br />

comfort is important. Raw edges are easily achieved as this fabric doesn’t fray. The Tulum collection comes in five colourways -<br />

denim, navy, raspberry, grey, and black.<br />

Black and Olive<br />

Black and Tan<br />

Black and White<br />

DEBDEN RAYON TWILL<br />

Perfect for dresses, pinafores, blouses and shirts, this soft yarn-dyed check rayon is heavier than challis and perfect for the inbetween<br />

seasons and is made from 100% viscose.<br />

Cream Camel Dusky Pink Navy<br />

LAVELLO LYOCELL<br />

This fabric is a popular choice for making garments. It has eco-credentials and is made from wood pulp that’s sourced from<br />

sustainably sourced forests. This Rayon Twill is known for its softness, breathability and moisture-wicking properties making it a<br />

very wearable fabric. The Lavello Collection comes in these four colours, as well as black.<br />

To see all the fabric collections from Modelo available - click here


New woolfelt collection<br />

WOOLFELT® is the registered trademark of the famous wool/<br />

rayon mix exclusive to National Nonwovens. Designed for easy<br />

sewing and accurate cutting, it’s popular as a crafting medium<br />

and the colours available are endless. This fabric is perfect<br />

for appliqué, cushions, ornaments and even clothing. The<br />

new Slammin’ 70’s Collection consists of new colours for 2024<br />

including Good Vibes Blue, Boogie Beige, Trippin’ Terracotta,<br />

Groovy Green and Far Out Mint Chocolate Chip.<br />

To view the full range of colours available from<br />

National Nonwovens – click here<br />

Perfect Pointer Tool<br />

This new tool from Sew To Grow is the perfect addition to your sewing<br />

tool kit. It’s a tiny but mighty multi-tool that can assist you with marking,<br />

sewing, poking corners, adjusting and guiding. It comes with both<br />

Imperial and Metric measurements and a handy hanging hole.<br />

To view the Perfect Pointer Tool from Sew To Grow – click here<br />

WHAT’S<br />

new<br />

We keep you up-to-date on the<br />

latest products<br />

Best Buds Quilt<br />

Unleash your creativity with these pretty quilt patterns. It’s a<br />

traditionally pieced quilt inspired by checkered florals with<br />

a fresh and modern twist. You only need three fabrics for<br />

the top, but for those craving more options, there’s a fat<br />

quarter option too! This pattern gives you lots of options for<br />

the home from a 14in square single block, a 42½in baby size<br />

quilt, a generous 70½in x 84½ in throw size or a cosy 98½in<br />

bed size. The 14-page pattern is complete with labels for<br />

organising your cuts of fabric, a fun colouring page, step-bystep<br />

detailed instructions, and colourful diagrams.<br />

To view the full pattern range from Pen + Paper – click here


TRENDSETTER<br />

High-rise<br />

THE TREND<br />

This season’s key trouser trends include a high waist. This design elongates your silhouette and divides up your torso. Some of the<br />

big designer names have shown their cinched paper bag waistlines like Hermes on the catwalk this spring. This trouser style looks<br />

its best when worn tucked in to show off the design elements.<br />

HIDDEN<br />

WAISTBAND<br />

PAPER<br />

BAG<br />

The Opal Pants and Shorts pattern has a relaxed fit high<br />

waist trouser set with mix-and-match options. Make with<br />

a paper bag or standard elastic waistband, inseam or<br />

patch pockets, back pockets, belt loops, belt and multiple<br />

lengths. Choose from a pair of tapered-leg trousers with<br />

a paper bag waist and belt or a wider-leg trouser with an<br />

elastic waist. This sewing pattern comes in sizes 0-20.<br />

To see more sewing patterns from<br />

Megan Nielsen - click here<br />

The Mitchell Trousers have<br />

a comfy hidden highwaisted<br />

waistband facing<br />

for a sleek continuous<br />

silhouette through the<br />

rise. The deep pleats in<br />

the front enclose a unique<br />

angled pocket. Make<br />

ankle or a full-length wide<br />

leg. The pattern comes in<br />

sizes 0-20.<br />

To view all Closet Core<br />

Patterns - click here<br />

FLEXI<br />

COMFORT<br />

SWEDISH<br />

STYLING<br />

Thanks to this pattern’s<br />

innovative flex waistband,<br />

the Meriam Trousers will<br />

keep you comfortable while<br />

standing or sitting, without<br />

compromising on style and<br />

sophistication! Still with the<br />

classic detailing but the flex<br />

waistband gently expands<br />

by 3-4in as you sit down.<br />

There’s also the option of<br />

a full bottom adjustment<br />

piece. The pattern comes in<br />

sizes 0-16 and 12-32.<br />

To view this pattern and<br />

others from Cashmerette -<br />

click here<br />

Maja is a high-waisted wide-leg trouser that includes<br />

two different waistbands, so you can make it with a<br />

front fly or with a hidden zipper at the side, whichever<br />

you find the most comfortable to wear. This pattern<br />

is perfect for making an everyday pair of jeans. This<br />

pattern comes in hip sizes 90-106cm and 104-124cm.<br />

To view this pattern and others from Mönsterfabriken<br />

- click here


TROUSER<br />

MAKING<br />

Embarking on the journey of trouser-making,<br />

Julie Bonnar offers her tips to get you started<br />

Your measurements<br />

Precise measurements are essential for well-fitting trousers.<br />

Consider enlisting a friend to help measure your waist, hips,<br />

inseam, and trouser length, it’s much easier and more accurate than<br />

doing it yourself!<br />

Selecting a pattern<br />

When selecting a sewing pattern, begin with a simple design that<br />

excludes challenging elements like a fly zip or fitted waistband.<br />

This approach allows you to build confidence before progressing<br />

to a pattern resembling your favourite ready-to-wear trousers and<br />

avoids investing significant time and effort in creating a pair you<br />

might not wear in the end. The Tyra Trousers from Ploen Patterns<br />

(shown here), the Opal Pants from Megan Nielsen and the Pants<br />

from Folkwear’s Basics Range are great patterns to begin your<br />

sewing journey.<br />

Tyra Trousers from<br />

Ploen Patterns<br />

Choosing the right fabric<br />

For loose-fitting trouser patterns, opt for drapey rayons, cotton,<br />

and linen, offering a comfortable and relaxed feel. For more<br />

tailored patterns, consider mid-weight cotton, denim, twill, or<br />

wool suiting. Additionally, stretch wovens like stretch twill or<br />

cotton sateen provide flexibility, aiding in the fitting process.<br />

It’s essential to align your pieces with the grainlines indicated<br />

on the pattern. Following these guidelines will ensure a<br />

comfortable, well-hanging trouser and prevent any leg twisting.<br />

Be thorough transferring all construction marks, especially when<br />

attaching the front and back legs, to ensure correct fabric easing.<br />

Cutting the fabric<br />

Make sure you align the fabric with the grainlines as<br />

indicated on the pattern. I like to extend these so it’s easier<br />

to keep straight. This will make sure that your trousers are<br />

not only comfortable when worn but also hang correctly<br />

without any leg twisting. Be thorough in transferring all<br />

construction marks; this guarantees proper fabric easing,<br />

particularly when attaching the front and back legs.<br />

TIP: Simplify the process by cutting on a single layer of<br />

fabric! This is a must for those new to trouser-making.


<strong>Sewing</strong> a toile<br />

<strong>Sewing</strong> a toile or muslin offers the chance to achieve the ideal fit before cutting<br />

into your final and most likely more expensive fabric. Select a fabric with a similar<br />

weight, stretch, and drape to your chosen final fabric to prevent any discrepancies<br />

in the fit.<br />

Assessing the fit<br />

When trying on the toile, take this opportunity to address any fitting concerns<br />

and explore ways to enhance the fit. It’s common for everyone to require some<br />

adjustment. Identify areas where wrinkles appear (acknowledging that not all<br />

wrinkles can be eliminated) and have your friend take photos from the front, back,<br />

and side to pinpoint any pulling, bunching, gaping, or excess fabric. Sitting down<br />

can also help decide whether they are a comfortable fit.<br />

TIP: Keep a record of any necessary adjustments for future reference.<br />

Any adjustments should be made gradually and methodically, testing each<br />

alteration one at a time by trying on the toile again to assess whether it<br />

resolves the fitting issue. Remember that muslins are not typically flattering, so<br />

concentrate on identifying areas for improvement during this fitting phase, rather<br />

than dwelling on aspects of the fit that are already correct.<br />

Use the correct Interfacings<br />

Choosing the right type of interfacing is vital for achieving the desired look of the trousers. Consider light to medium-weight<br />

stretch fusible interfacing for a flexible and comfortable waistband. For structured elements such as welts and pocket edges,<br />

opt for a more stable mid-weight interfacing. Remember to press as you progress! Proper pressing is key to achieving a<br />

professional finish on your garment. Always press your seams where and when the instructions indicate.<br />

Press as you go! Choosing the right seam finish<br />

Proper pressing is the secret to any well-made garment.<br />

TIP: A tailor’s ham can help shape curved seams and a<br />

clapper will help create crisp and locked seams.<br />

The correct seam finish will help create a polished appearance<br />

on the inside and out. French seams work well for lightweight<br />

fabrics. Overlocking is ideal for heavy-weight fabrics and flatfelled<br />

seams are more durable for medium to heavy-weight<br />

fabrics.<br />

The perfect hem<br />

I would advise pressing your garment and letting it hang for a day before hemming. Then try on your trousers with the shoes<br />

you intend to wear. For most fabrics, a double-fold hem is sufficient, but for an invisible finish, you should consider handsewing<br />

a blind hem using a slip-stitch.<br />

Begin with simpler techniques and gradually advance to more complex construction methods as you gain<br />

experience in making trousers.<br />

This article has been written by Julie Bonnar, the Editor of The Pattern Pages, an independent sewing magazine started by mother<br />

and daughter team. It’s the first magazine to champion indie designers, www.thepatternpages.co.uk<br />

To find your next trouser sewing pattern - click here


MAKING A<br />

Spring Capsule using<br />

Wardrobe By Me patterns<br />

With Jacqui Smith<br />

In this edition, I aimed to curate a versatile Spring outfit comprising pieces that<br />

can seamlessly transition through the seasons – from Spring to Summer and<br />

into Autumn. The concept revolves around assembling garments that can easily<br />

integrate with existing wardrobe staples, offering flexibility and longevity in wear.<br />

My pattern choice<br />

For this project, I selected three patterns from Wardrobe By<br />

Me, a pattern company with a comprehensive collection of<br />

wardrobe essentials for both men and women. The garments<br />

I chose featured the Easy Pants for comfortable lightweight<br />

trousers, the Whisper Blouse as a versatile top, and the Pika<br />

Vest to add an on-trend layer to the outfit.<br />

Constructing the top and trousers proved straightforward,<br />

and suitable for sewists of all levels. The trousers feature<br />

optional welt pockets at the back, providing a skill-enhancing<br />

opportunity for beginners. Additionally, a generous hem allows<br />

for easy rolling and a neat appearance, especially with lighter<br />

fabrics like the Fableism chambray.<br />

The Whisper Blouse offers various customisation options,<br />

such as roll-up sleeves and different neckline variations. Opting<br />

for the long placket and sleeves without tabs, I focussed on<br />

a casual yet polished look. For a refined finish, I incorporated<br />

French seams along the underarm, adapting to the pattern’s<br />

1cm seam allowances by initially sewing a 5mm seam,<br />

trimming, and finishing with another 5mm seam.


While the Pika Vest is labelled suitable for beginners, I<br />

recommend it for those with some sewing experience due to<br />

complexities such as the facings and lined finish. For a relaxed<br />

fit, sizing up is advisable, or consider the Pika Vest, a boxier<br />

alternative available in the men’s collection.<br />

My fabric choice<br />

I chose Nocturne Chambray by Fableism for the trousers and<br />

vest and Fableism’s Everyday Chambray for the top. Both of<br />

these fabrics are made from a blend of cotton and bamboo,<br />

which not only ensures comfort but also gives a sophisticated<br />

heathered appearance.<br />

For the lining, I used Art Gallery Fabrics’ lightweight rayon<br />

fabric for a comfortable and airy finished garment. For added<br />

structure, a cotton poplin lining can be substituted, offering<br />

ease of sewing compared to the slippery nature of rayon.<br />

Engraved buttons were matched to the fabric, with<br />

each featuring a delicate leaf design, adding a nice<br />

finishing touch.<br />

EDITORS NOTES<br />

THE PATTERNS:<br />

The Whisper blouse is an<br />

uncomplicated, relaxedfitting<br />

garment with the<br />

choice of boat or round<br />

neckline with a button<br />

placket. Make either a<br />

blouse or a dress, and<br />

make the straight sleeve in three sleeve<br />

lengths.<br />

The Pika Vest can be worn over<br />

various tops or even on its own<br />

as a chic top. It’s fashionable and<br />

functional with a pointed front<br />

hem, decorative welts, princess<br />

seams, back darts, and a shaped<br />

back seam. Plus, the inside is lined<br />

and features facings for added<br />

comfort.<br />

The Easy Pants is a classic pair of<br />

slim relaxed leg pull-up pants for<br />

woven fabric, with elastic waistline,<br />

side pockets, optional back welt<br />

pockets, and cuffed hem.<br />

These sewing patterns come in sizes<br />

0-24 and 30-54.<br />

To view this pattern and others from<br />

Wardrobe By Me – click here<br />

THE FABRIC:<br />

Jacqui chose to make her garments using the<br />

Nocturne Chambray collection which is made<br />

with a blend of bamboo and cotton fibres to<br />

give this chambray collection, its incredibly<br />

soft hand. This collection has a darker<br />

moodier colour palette which is particularly<br />

the current on-trend dressmaking patterns for<br />

a simple, pared-back look.<br />

To view more from the Nocturne Chambray<br />

collection from Fableism – click here


New apparel sewing pattern releases for you to make!<br />

Closet Core Patterns<br />

The Jenna Button-Up Shirt and Dress sewing pattern features a<br />

dropped shoulder and deep back yoke. The traditional back pleat<br />

has gone and has been replaced with a charming hang loop but the<br />

overall design has been kept classic with a collar stand, long sleeve<br />

with tower placket and cuff, and bust patch pocket.<br />

This pattern gives sewers lots of options. Use it to make the perfect<br />

everyday button-up shirt, ending below the bottom with a deeply<br />

curved and exaggerated hem or choose a cropped<br />

version that sits at a high hip with a straight hem. There’s<br />

also an easy shirtdress that has gathered panels to create<br />

a breezy midi-length garment. This sewing pattern comes<br />

in sizes XXS-4X.<br />

To find your nearest stockist of Closet Core Patterns –<br />

click here<br />

Noodlehead<br />

The Oxbow Bag is such a versatile top tote bag in two sizes. It features<br />

an easy-access front pocket, reinforced base, crossbody strap, and a<br />

roomy interior with a slip pocket. Customise yours with quilting, the<br />

pattern has detailed instructions to do this.<br />

To view this latest pattern and more from Noodlehead – click here


Wardrobe by Me<br />

The Fleece Jacket combines beautiful style lines that<br />

you’d find on a jacket with the fabrics you’d use for a<br />

sweater. The result is a very comfy yet ultra-stylish piece<br />

that looks sleek and put together but is comfortable<br />

enough to wear around the home. This jacket has a full<br />

front zipper and offers a stand-up collar or drawstring<br />

hood. It has three pockets, two front pockets with<br />

invisible zippers and one interior chest pocket. The slim<br />

fit, curved hem, and contoured seams at the sides and<br />

sleeves give the jacket a modern, sporty feel.<br />

The Painter Jacket has a generous fit with<br />

oversized and unstructured details, including<br />

dropped shoulders and expansive patch<br />

pockets. This simple yet stylish design can<br />

be completed quickly with medium-weight<br />

fabrics like denim and canvas. The pattern is<br />

unisex, with sleeve length for both men and<br />

women and both the above patterns<br />

come in sizes 2XS-4XL.<br />

The High Waist Pants pattern<br />

features a classic pair of pull-up pants<br />

designed for woven fabric,<br />

with an elastic waistline and<br />

two types of pockets. The<br />

legs are full and the loose fit is<br />

relaxed and comfortable. Make<br />

with a paper bag effect at the<br />

waistband or a simpler version<br />

with a straight waistband casing.<br />

These trousers are easy to style<br />

with casual sneakers and a fulllength<br />

or an elegant high heel with<br />

a cropped version.<br />

The Half Zipper Sweater is a sporty pullover with<br />

a zip from the neck to the chest. It has a roomy and<br />

comfortable fit with dropped shoulders and set-in<br />

sleeves. Make it with the collar and front zipper or<br />

make it as a simple sweatshirt. You can add contrast<br />

bands to the shoulder and sleeve for a retro sporty<br />

sweater version.<br />

Both these sewing patterns come in sizes 0-24<br />

(US) and 30-54 (EU).<br />

To find these patterns and more from<br />

Wardrobe By Me - click here


Folkwear<br />

The Egyptian Shirt sewing pattern is a shortened version of the<br />

traditional Egyptian Galabia (robe). This versatile shirt can be<br />

sewn up for casual or elegant occasions for men and women. This<br />

pattern offers a modern shirt-length and a mid-calf version, which<br />

can be left plain or decorated with contrasting yoke, appliqué,<br />

or in original designs, soutache braid, handmade cording and<br />

knotted buttons. With side panels and slit pockets, slightly flared<br />

sleeves that curve under arms to meet side panels, it’s the perfect<br />

loose-fitting garment. This pattern comes in sizes XS-2XL.<br />

Trousers became acceptable public attire for women<br />

in the early 1930s, and the Hollywood Trousers offer<br />

three history-making designs – Knickerbockers, Trousers<br />

and Shorts and depending on the style offer a high wide<br />

waistband, button-front fly closure, different pleat styles.<br />

This sewing pattern comes in sizes XS-3XL.<br />

The Metro Middy Blouse reflects the military styling<br />

of World War I uniforms, as well as, the new interest in<br />

comfortable and practical two-piece garments. This<br />

easy-sew blouse has a breezy, loose fit, slightly belled<br />

sleeves, flared hemline with a gentle downward curve at<br />

the centre back, and V-neck and sailor collar. It makes a<br />

perfect summer blouse tucked into a skirt, or worn out as<br />

a lightweight jacket over a knit top. The pattern comes in<br />

sizes XS-3XL.<br />

To view these sewing patterns and<br />

more from Folkwear - click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk


TEXTURE & TONE<br />

We chat with Andrea Patton – the founder of the boutique fabric manufacturer Fableism<br />

whose fabrics are giving textile lovers beautiful muted fabrics for modern sewing<br />

Tell us a little about your background and what<br />

inspired you to start the fabric brand Fableism.<br />

As I grew up, I tried out a bunch of different business ideas,<br />

some of which seem pretty funny now looking back. My husband<br />

and I even had a vending machine business at one point, and<br />

I dabbled in running an online vintage clothing store to name<br />

but a few!<br />

After finishing up my Fashion Design studies in Los Angeles, I<br />

moved back to my small hometown without much of a plan. But<br />

with my trusty sewing machine and a bunch of supplies, I started<br />

doing alterations. Eventually, I started working at a small fabric<br />

shop where I fell in love with the idea of having my own fabric<br />

store.<br />

Fast forward a few years, and Cottoneer was born. One day, I<br />

got an email from a mill offering manufacturing services, and for<br />

some reason, it caught my eye. Turns out, it was a great match,<br />

and we’ve been working together ever since. That experience<br />

got me thinking about starting our own manufacturing business.<br />

I always had this dream of making my own fabrics, but it wasn’t<br />

until I was running Cottoneer that I figured out exactly what kind<br />

of fabrics I wanted to create. There were some fabrics I imagined<br />

having in our shop that just weren’t out there, so we decided to<br />

make them ourselves. And that’s how Fableism came to be.<br />

What do you love the most about being a family<br />

business and who is involved with the day-to-day<br />

running?<br />

My husband Patrick and I are the proud owners of a couple<br />

of fabric businesses, Cottoneer and Fableism Supply Co. I’m<br />

in charge of the operations side and handle everything from<br />

designing fabric and marketing to packing orders and even<br />

cleaning toilets - the whole shebang! It’s the typical life of a small<br />

business owner, wearing many hats and tackling whatever comes<br />

our way!<br />

Cottoneer is our online retail fabric store, where we curate<br />

a wide selection of fabrics for our customers. And our latest<br />

project, Fableism Supply Co., is a wholesale business where we<br />

create and distribute our fabrics to fabric shops worldwide.<br />

My husband and sister play crucial roles in the day-today<br />

running of the business and honestly, they’re my closest<br />

confidants. We bounce ideas off each other, support each other,<br />

and make a great team.


Why did you decide to concentrate on woven fabrics<br />

and what do they bring to the table in terms of<br />

sewing projects?<br />

We decided to focus on creating 100% cotton woven textiles<br />

for their versatility, comfort, and breathability. In our Chambray<br />

collections, we’ve also incorporated bamboo to enhance the<br />

drape and add a luxurious feel to the fabrics.<br />

As I was brainstorming, I realised that each collection was<br />

telling a story. I often start with a theme or a common thread that<br />

ties all the designs together. But it dawned on me that I’m not<br />

the only one weaving a tale here. The story continues through<br />

the shop owners who use our fabrics to create their own colour<br />

narratives. Ultimately, it’s the sewer who brings the story to life.<br />

And that’s where our tagline, ‘Tales told through cloth,’ came into<br />

being!<br />

Our fabrics embark on a unique creative journey, whether<br />

they’re sewn into a cosy quilt, a stylish garment, or a lovely piece<br />

for the home. I want our fabrics to experience life alongside<br />

those who use them - to be cherished, worn, and loved through<br />

countless adventures.<br />

What inspired you to use texture and earthy tones?<br />

I’m quite particular when it comes to colours, and my tastes in<br />

fabric made me realise that the colours and textures I envisioned<br />

didn’t exist in the market as I imagined them.<br />

I’m drawn to earthy tones that come from natural dyes,<br />

which create soft, muted fabrics that evoke a sense of calm<br />

and serenity. It’s no wonder that I based most of our collections<br />

around this concept. When a colour palette is well-balanced, it<br />

exudes a unique harmony that’s incredibly satisfying.<br />

For me, texture is everything. I strive to create fabrics that<br />

offer quality and timeless style. While I appreciate the charm of<br />

scrappy quilts with printed fabrics (and have made my fair share<br />

of them), I tend not to use them at home because my interest in<br />

trends tends to wane (like most people) over time.<br />

What collections are available and what’s in the<br />

pipeline?<br />

In just a few years of Fableism being in business, we’ve already<br />

launched eight lines, with more in the pipeline! Our current<br />

releases include Camp Ginghams, Everyday Chambray, Forest<br />

Forage, Nocturne Chambray, and Sprout Wovens. I’m thrilled<br />

about the future of Fableism.<br />

We have some exciting plans ahead, including our first<br />

collection collaboration with a designer that I’m eager to<br />

announce soon so stay tuned!<br />

To find a stockist near you of the latest Fableism Fabric Collections - click here


Bring the<br />

Spring Indoors<br />

As the days grow longer and the weather turns warmer, the world starts to burst with<br />

colour! If you’re feeling inspired by the changing seasons, we’ve curated a gorgeous<br />

collection of spring quilt patterns for you to dive into and get lost in creativity<br />

Best<br />

Buds<br />

Unleash your creativity with this<br />

traditionally pieced quilt inspired by<br />

checkered florals with a fresh and modern<br />

twist from Pen + Paper. You only need<br />

three fabrics for the top, but for those<br />

craving more variety, there’s a fat quarter<br />

option too. Choose from a single block<br />

(14in square), a baby size (42 1/2in<br />

square), a generous throw size (70 1/2in<br />

x 84 1/2in), or a cosy bed size (98 1/2in<br />

square). Suitable for advanced beginners<br />

and above.<br />

Solstice<br />

This Alison Glass quilt pattern uses the foundation<br />

paper piecing technique and ranges in style from<br />

modern to traditional depending on fabric selection<br />

and placement. It includes the block template,<br />

detailed foundation paper piecing instructions, and<br />

a colouring page, and there are two size options and<br />

colour layout styles available.


Hello<br />

Spring<br />

A traditionally pieced quilt recommended for the<br />

confident beginner sewist and up, this Pen + Paper<br />

pattern includes instructions for making a baby size<br />

115cm x 142cm (45 1/2in x 56in), as well as two throw<br />

sizes 147cm x 174cm (58in x 68 1/2in). The pattern<br />

consists of two repeating blocks – a ladybug block<br />

24cm square (9 1/2in) and a flower block 24cm x 51cm<br />

(9 1/2in x 20in).<br />

Greenhouse<br />

Bring the inside out and make a greenhouse full of<br />

patchwork plants using your favourite 10in x 10in<br />

fabric squares and conventional patchwork piecing<br />

techniques designed by Elizabeth Hartman. This<br />

revised second edition includes a fresh new layout<br />

with Aloe, Jade, Prickly, Flower and Cactus Plants.<br />

Flower<br />

Shop<br />

This quilt from <strong>Modern</strong> Handcraft is a big block pattern<br />

consisting of three different block styles. Make as a fun<br />

baby, mini quilt, throw or a larger bed-sized twin or queen<br />

quilt - these big blocks will really stand out!<br />

To view the top-selling quilt<br />

patterns - click here


BORO-INSPIRED<br />

MUG RUG<br />

Sarah Ashford shares her sweet slow-stitched little project<br />

In the previous issue, I shared a little intro into different types of<br />

hand stitching techniques from different cultures, and this time,<br />

I thought it would be fun to create a project using Japanese<br />

Boro. This technique was traditionally used to mend torn or<br />

worn-out clothing, strengthen and extend the life of a garment,<br />

but also to add an additional layer of beauty to an item.<br />

I thought I’d create a little mug rug tutorial so that you can<br />

use up your fabric scraps and create the perfect place to put<br />

your cup of tea!<br />

I’ve used some denim from an old pair of jeans and some<br />

scraps from the True Blue collection by Maureen Cracknell for<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics.


HOW TO MAKE:<br />

1. Take your background fabric and lay it on top of the<br />

backing fabric.<br />

2. Arrange your scrap fabrics to create the word ‘tea’. Get<br />

creative with this! The fabrics can overlap, and be different<br />

lengths and sizes. You may need to trim them down to size<br />

and pin in position.<br />

3. Use a range of stitches to stitch down the fabrics. You can<br />

use running stitch, seed stitch, French knots, improvised<br />

little stars and kisses or whatever you fancy! Don’t plan it too<br />

much, just decide as you go along. You can also overlap the<br />

stitches into the background too. Have some fun with your<br />

stitching and don’t<br />

worry about it being<br />

perfect, it’s meant<br />

to have an organic,<br />

handmade feel to it.<br />

4. When all the letters<br />

are stitched down,<br />

stitch a running stitch<br />

about 1/8in from the<br />

edge to seal the<br />

edges. Bury any<br />

loose threads<br />

between the two<br />

layers.<br />

Finally, make yourself a nice cup of tea, find a<br />

biscuit (or two) and sit back relax and enjoy!<br />

EDITOR’S NOTES<br />

If you have been inspired by Sarah’s project – she used fabric scraps from the True Blue fabric collection designed by<br />

Maureen Cracknell for Art Gallery Fabrics Studio. To view all stockists and view the complete collection – click here


New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Embark on a mesmerising tour of<br />

Florence's Renaissance treasures through<br />

Katarina's artful florals & geometric motifs.<br />

Drawing inspiration from iconic<br />

masterpieces, her work pays homage to<br />

Botticelli's terracotta tones and heavenly<br />

blues, celebrating the divine beauty and<br />

richness of the world.<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

Witness the pure magic of enchanting<br />

blooms. This captivating collection<br />

celebrates the universal love for all things<br />

floral, showcasing their elegance,<br />

vibrancy, and remarkable resiliency. Dive<br />

into a dreamland of wild beauty and<br />

enchantment in full bloom.<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Find balance and creativity with this new<br />

addition to our low volume series. Mix the<br />

Volume transitions from Sweet Tunes with<br />

soft blush and lavender tones to Fresh<br />

Tunes in warm green and amber tones.<br />

Mix and match to your heart's content and<br />

let the rhythm of your creativity take over.<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Unleash your wanderlust, embrace the<br />

mystical vibes, and let your free spirit soar.<br />

Our Soul Fusion collection invites you to<br />

express yourself with soulful elegance<br />

through an exotic mix of boho-inspired<br />

styles. Explore our collection, from<br />

intricate patterns to floral designs to<br />

elevate your creations.<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Discover a picturesque bay along the<br />

California coast near the Pacific Ocean<br />

with Tomales Bay, where the air is cool<br />

and the waves caress the shore. Explore<br />

the perfect escape as you watch pelicans<br />

dive for fish, boats zip by, and the forest<br />

quietly echoes its rustic beauty to coastal<br />

bliss in beautiful motifs.<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

Buttercream inspired by<br />

midcentury children's baking books<br />

and a Grandmother's prized<br />

collection of recipe tins - chock full<br />

to bursting with colourful<br />

handwritten and typed recipe<br />

cards - Buttercream offers up a<br />

sugary and playful array of prints<br />

perfectly delectable for every cakeloving<br />

sewist!<br />

Full details & stockists


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