Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 3

Edition 3 - March 2019
Modern
sewing
starts here...
The heart
of a sewing project
How to choose the right wadding
Pattern
PLAY
Rachel Pinheiro
shares how to wear
and sew
PLUS…
The latest sewing
pattern releases
Styles to sew for
this season
Five tools that you
didn’t know you needed
for dressmaking
Hantex is now distributing Albstoffe organic
fabrics and trimmings (pictured here)
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
www.hantex.co.uk 1

WIN WIN WIN!
Editor’s Letter
Hello
There are lots of innovative new products to the market so for this edition it’s been
difficult to choose, as there are so many great ones we could have mentioned. This time we
discuss the print-on-print trend, 5 exciting new products that dressmakers will want to have in
their sewing room and share a few questions that you should ask yourself to make choosing
the right wadding easier. We’re also delighted to catch up with Maureen Cracknell, one of Art
Gallery Fabrics’ designers.
Happy sewing!
Hantex
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
News update.........….
Made with love, sustainability
and perfection
We’re delighted to share that
Hantex is now the distributor in
the UK and Eire for Albstoffe’s
beautiful jacquard and jersey
fabric with designs from
Hamburger Liebe, as well as the
co-ordinating Knit Knit and Big
Knit Jacquards in the Wanderlust
collection for spring/summer
2019. You can also buy the perfectly matched Cuff
ME, Stripe ME and Cord ME trimmings. All are
produced in Germany using the highest quality
GOTS organic fabrics
To find out more about these designs – click here
Row for the Ocean update
Just 43 days after leaving
the Canary Islands, the Row
For The Ocean transatlantic
rowing team arrived in
Antigua. Hantex sponsored
them as part of the Sew For The Ocean campaign to
improve the environmental credentials of products
used in the sewing industry.
Not only was it an amazing time, they were the
first female team to arrive! Money raised during their
crossing will go to SAS.org who campaign for plastic
free communities and cleaner oceans.
Hantex is rapidly expanding the range of organic
and Oeko-Tex certified fabrics, as well as introducing
new products such as organic sewing threads, all with
the longer-term aim of making sewing sustainable.
1
2
3
4
For a chance to win one of 10
It’s Sew Emma Stash n Stores,
mentioned on page 7. It’s the
perfect for storing the tools
you need to get to quickly.
Closing date is
30th April 2019.
Click here to enter
Five new fabric collections
coming your way!
WEST PALM
Featuring candid flamingos
and seashore-infused
motifs celebrating coastal
lifestyle in shades of coral,
aquamarine and lemon
yellow – click here
ICON ELEMENTS
Go for bold colour
with 100% premium
cotton in sumptuous
colours – click here
NEW DENIMS
A new lightweight
denim collection
that’s perfect for
making clothes –
click here
RAINCOAT
FABRICS
Make a
splash with
the coolest
waterproof
prints –
click here

MYSTICAL FOLK
The Lugu collection is designed by Jessica Swift,
and is inspired by her love of nature, and affinity
for the mystical. It tells the story of owls, moths,
and crown-wearing deer meandering under the
sky, and through flowers and branches.
Dawn and dusk define the colours in this bright
yet mysterious woodland world. The range
features cottons, knits and rayons.
To view this Art Gallery Fabrics collection –
click here
Focus on
FABRICS
Feast your eyes on the latest
fabrics for spring sewing
CORD IS BACK!
Corduroy and needlecord fell out of fashion but now it’s back
on the must-sew list. Say goodbye to the old-fashioned image
of this chunky durable fabric, and look forward to new
vibrant colours. This ridged-classic fabric now comes in lots of
exciting colours, and is perfect for making jeans, dungarees,
pinafores, skirts, blazers, and bags too. The fabric’s mix of
cotton and elastane makes it hardwearing yet really soft.
To take a closer look at this range from Modelo fabrics –
click here
GO WILD!
Reminiscent of a safari trip through the jungle, the Wild
fabric collection offers a bold and whimsical take on the
designer’s favourite untamed creatures and flora. Leah
Duncan features tigers, elephants, zebra and lions and
cranes to her signatures pieces of nature and geometric
prints in vibrant colours. The collection is made from 100%
organic quilters weight cotton, and includes barkcloth.
To see more of this Cloud9 fabric collection – click here
HEATHERED JERSEY
This Oeko-Tex heathered knitted jersey
is an excellent quality fabric for making
tops, skirts, dresses and giving depth
to any garment. It’s made up of 80%
cotton, 15% polyester and 5% lycra,
which gives it a wonderful stretch.
To see more of this Modelo range –
click here

THE SOFTEST JERSEY IMAGINABLE
BALANCE OF NATURE
Another Cloud9 new release is the Field & Sky range
made from 100% organic sateen cotton. This will add
a lovely sheen to your dressmaking and other sewing
projects. The collection designed by Yao Cheng features
beautiful floral designs mixed with abstracts in the same
colour palette of greens and blues with subtle warm
orange and pink tones that will remind you of nature.
To check out more of this collection – click here
Modelo Fabrics has just launched a beautiful range of organic
beach jersey with summery seaside prints including waves,
shells, sealife and seahorses. With its very subtle colour
palette, it’s perfect for warmer weather makes such as dresses
and tops for all the family.
To view the full range – click here
ALL THE FUN OF THE FESTIVAL
Festival is the latest 100% organic cotton collection
and showcases stunning designs of exotic animals,
fruit and flowers by designer, Jennifer Moore.
The fabric company started out from Jennifer’s
desire to bring more sustainable alternatives to the
fabric marketplace, and has been growing steadily.
To view this fabric range from Monaluna – click here
T-shirt illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee sewing pattern from Grainline

Pattern Play
Wearing print-on-print based on a set colour scheme
can actually work. Brazilian-born sewing blogger,
Rachel Pinheiro, shares how she made it work on the
Ulysses Trench Coat from Victory Patterns
THE TREND:
MIXING PRINTS
Accordingly to Vogue magazine, “Prints should be worn all-over, clashed merrily
and madly with little concern for what goes with what”. I love mixing and matching
patterns, colours, and prints in my handmade outfits – it’s fun and liberating to wear
beautiful fabrics all at once. Putting different prints together can be intimidating,
but with these tips, you’ll get it in no time at all.
Picking fabrics
Choose the same fabric types
as they will behave as one. The
rayon I used was a delight to sew.
Make sure the prints have a
unifying element such as fabric
colour, print style, density or
scale. They can be the same,
opposite or complementary.
Play with size and density of
pattern. Match big and bold
prints with smaller and subtler
designs.
A fail-safe way to start is with
bolder prints and pick out just
one colour from its pattern.
For the second print, opt
for a more delicate design that
utilises just that one shade.
Eye-catching prints in vivid
colours will make the boldest
of outfits.
A plan of action
There are a few ways to apply this trend:
Pick a sewing pattern that allows the
use of different fabrics on areas such as
yokes and seams.
Hack a pattern to create extra seams.
Patchwork your fabric first and then
cut the sewing pattern out.
Project thoughts
I opted to make the Ulysses Trench Coat
from Victory Patterns as I felt the
relaxed nature of this sewing pattern
would work with my concept of
creating a patchwork textile print. I
tested a few ideas on how to maximise
the impact and scale of mixing the
prints by experimenting with different
sizes of stripes and geometric shapes.
By creating an uneven spontaneous design – this would suit my vision best, as
I want people to see the different fabrics as one digital print.
Construction wise, I wanted the inside to be neat as the outside but didn’t
wnat to lined it fully so I used a combination of seam finishes such as French
and Flat Felled.
The fabric I chose came from the Heritage
Collection by Art Gallery Fabrics, which has been
designed by pattern designer, April Rhodes
(Treasured Kermes and Mountain Mirror in rayon).
To view the Heritage fabric collection – click here
To find out more about the Ulysses Trench Coat
from Victory Patterns – click here

Sewing made
simpler!
Julie Bonnar shares 5 items for sewing that you didn’t know you needed!
Finding tools that make
sewing easier is a must for me.
Here I’ve shared five items –
some new and some not so
new that I know you won’t
want to be without!
Sew while the iron’s hot
1
Pressing is a key part
of sewing and this
minty green mat is
such a useful item. Sew Hot
Iron Rest from It’s Sew Emma
provides a place where you
can rest your iron face down
in between pressing seams –
saving time and avoiding any
chance of the iron tipping
over. The heavy-duty silicone
surface is a really good size,
and fits most irons and can
withstand up to 260°C. You’ll
want to leave it out as it has
an inspirational message and
a pretty moulded pattern!
Find out more – click here
TIP: Sit it by the side
of your sewing machine
for smaller sewing
projects so you don’t
have to keep going to the
ironing board.
Sew magnetism
2
This multipurpose
organiser is
worth its weight in gold
and features a bobbin
ring with magnetic
pincushion in the
middle. I’m a fan of
magnetic pincushions
but this one has a few
little extras – it holds the pins across the middle recess
allowing you to grab and pick up your pins easily and
also has a hidden area underneath to store your pins.
The bobbin ring is made of flexible plastic, will take
30 bobbins, and has non-slip feet to help it stay put
on any surface.
To view this Prym product – click here
Get a grip!
3
The Oh Sew Stash n
Store is the perfect
little device to keep
your sewing notions within
arms reach and ready to
sew! It will store all those
marking tools, scissors and
items within an easy-to-grab
position. The silicone pockets
are smooth and provide a
sturdy grip. It’s very easy
to keep clean and there
are six pretty colours to
choose from.
To view all storage ideas –
click here
Within easy grasp
4
I’ve just been
introduced to
these wonderful
easy grasp pins from
Prym. They have a long,
concave handle made of
plum-coloured plastic,
which is easy to pick up,
easy to see, and easy
to place on fabric. The
pin has a fine tip, which
penetrates any fabric
type and is kind on the
fibres too.
To find out more –
click here
On your marks
5
Use this ergonomic
chalk wheel stick
much like you do a
rotary cutter. It’s really easy to
grip as it has a recess for your
index or middle finger to rest
helping you to keep the right
pressure on to release a good
amount of chalk to mark your
project. You can also buy
refills for it.
To view this handy marking
tool from Prym – click here

A sewing
revelation
Maureen Cracknell talks about how she discovered sewing and why she loves
designing fabrics for Art Gallery Fabrics
1
How did you get
into sewing?
While I was pregnant with my
daughter, I became obsessed
with knitting. I always had a
pair of needles and a project
in my hands those days. My
husband decided that since
I loved knitting that perhaps
I’d love sewing just as much,
and so he surprised me with
a fancy sewing machine for
our fifth wedding anniversary.
It took a couple of years
after that for me to actually
use it, and it wasn’t until
was shopping online that
I discovered the beautiful,
modern fabric collections
that were available for home
sewers. I bought a bundle
and set up my machine
and started sewing with the
help of all the tutorials that
were available online. After
years of clicking away on
the needles and all the time
it took to finish a knitting
project, I was amazed that I
was able to start and finish a
project in one short sewing
session. I was hooked!
2
When did you start
creating designs
for fabric?
Not long after I started
sewing, I discovered Art
Gallery Fabrics (AGF). and
fell in love with its colourful,
unique designs and the feel
of the luxury Pima cotton.
Through using Pat Bravo’s
fabrics in many of my sewing
projects and sharing them
on my blog – Maureen
Cracknell Handmade – Pat
and I began corresponding
and immediately became
friends. We’d occasionally
collaborate on her Quilt
Market projects and co-host

fabric giveaway’s on my blog.
I had shared some of my
artwork on my blog, Pat saw
and a conversation started
about the possibility of me
designing for AGF. I had so
much to learn, and with Pat
as my mentor, I became one
of AGF’s Limited Edition
designers in 2014. Four
years after I began sewing, I
rhad eleased my first fabric
collection, Wild & Free. It was
a dream come true for me!
3
What inspires
your designs when
creating a new collection
of fabrics?
Each of my collections has
a story inspired by my life –
where I live, the loss of my
father, walking my dog Penny
late at night, in remembrance
of a dear friend, things I
collect, and trips I’ve taken.
Each collection is very
meaningful to me!
4
How do you select
colours for each
collections?
The collections themselves
inspire the colour palettes
that I choose. Some
collections, like Sun Kissed
for example, need to be
bright and cheery. While
others like Nightfall and
Mystical Land require moody
soft colours.
5
How many fabric
collections have
you designed so far, and
are there any new one in
the pipeline for AGF?
Mystical Land is due out
soon and is my 10th fabric
collection for AGF. And yes,
there are always new ones in
the pipeline. I love designing
and hope to do this for as
long as I’m able to!
6
When is the new
Mystical Land
collection available and
what sort of things do
you see sewers wanting
to make with it?
Mystical Land ships to UK
stores in May and I can’t wait!
For this collection, I’m most
excited about the quilts that
it will inspire. All 20 quilting
cottons go together so
effortlessly, and the magical
night-time theme of the
prints cry out for making cosy
pillows and bed quilts that
are perfect for dreaming!
Don’t forget there is also
three amazing knits and
one rayon within this
collection that are perfect for
dressmaking projects.
To view all Art Gallery
Fabrics collections from
Maureen Cracknell –
click here

The wonders of
WADDING
Waddings are at the heart of every quilting project. Trudi Wood, patchwork
and quilting tutor explains where to start when it comes to choosing it for
your next project
with big stitches, or machine
quilted? Are you going to be
using a domestic machine
or by sending it out to a
longarmer. A wool wadding
is easiest to hand quilt and
the thickest. Bamboo is the
lightest and has a slightly
better drape.
With such a vast array of
wadding (also known as
batting) to choose from –
how do you know where to
start? Do you want cotton,
polyester, wool, soy, bamboo
or a mix? Do you need with
or without scrim, eco-friendly
or fusible – the list goes on.
As a long-arm quilter, I’m
often asked these questions.
So I always start by asking
myself a few questions about
the project I’m sewing.
This can identify or
eliminate certain waddings
to start with:
Is it for a potholder, table
runner (or oven gloves),
which will hold hot dishes?
Immediately, I know to look
at thermal wadding that
will protect my hands and
furniture for these projects.
Legacy Insul-Fleece is perfect
for these types of projects.
Having an aluminised scrim,
it protects and holds heat, as
well as keeping things cool
“We are all different as is each project,
and it’s definitely not a one size fits all when
so works for lunch bags or
bottle holders too.
Is it a quilt for a special
occasion? Does the project
warrant something special
like wool (or silk) wadding
such as Legacy 100% Wool,
which is perfect for vintage
and antique-inspired quilts?
The thermal qualities of wool
are fabulous given they’re
also so lightweight. They
breath naturally yet insulate
better than other waddings.
If like me, it’s not how much
insulation there is but
purely the weight involved
you might like a heavier
weight wadding like cotton
or a bamboo.
Who is it for?
If it’s for a quilt – is it for an
adult (are they quilt worthy)
it comes to wadding!”
or a child or baby? If the
quilt is for children, I would
recommend using a wadding
that is made completely
of natural fibres as it is
recommended that only
natural fillings should be used
for babies.
What type of quilting are
you planning to do?
Will the project be hand
quilted either traditionally or
What sort of loft do
you want?
Loft is how much bounciness
there is in the wadding –
low loft means a thinner
quilt while high loft means
a thicker one. Wool and
polyester add loft, where as
cotton or bamboo have a
flatter look to them. It may
depend on your style of
quilting, and just how much
you want to be able to see it.
Products mentioned:
Legacy from Pellon
Insul-Fleece – click here
Legacy 100% Wool
– click here
Use the Hantex wadding selector to find the right wadding for your project – click here

Trendsetter
We look at two everyday fabrics, which have had
a bit of a makeover – denim and sweatshirting
1 2
Sassy sweatshirts
Originally designed
for sport, the humble
sweatshirt is now a
stylish staple
in our wardrobes.
However when it
comes to fabric, the
quality of sweatshirt fabric
can vary. Hantex has a
comprehensive selection
with a real emphasis on
quality and wide range of
colours to choose from.
Opt to make
sweatshirt in a
plain colour and
personalise it with a
logo like this one from Jalie Patterns
– this is a hot trend this season.
Sweatshirt
pattern from
Jalie Patterns –
click here
Jarrah Top from
Megan Nielsen
– click here
Use them together to create
cool colour blocking designs
Cool colours for denim
On the High Street, there’s been an explosion of
coloured denim in soft shades from light pink jeans to
coral jackets all waiting for warmer weather!
This typically American fabric has been re-invented
once more, and you can ‘Feel the Difference’ with Art
Gallery Fabrics’ Denim Studio series 2 featuring new
100% premium cotton substrates.
With an array of prints, crosshatch designs and
on-trend pastel colours – these are ideal for making
garments, quilting, accessories, and home décor to
brighten up the home.
To view the complete denim collection from Art
Gallery Fabrics – click here
Modelo’s
French Terry
– click here
Or add a patterned sweatshirt fabric shown here on the
Jarrah Sweater sewing pattern from Megan Nielsen.
Modelo Fabrics has a super selection of organic
brushed back French terry, which is excellent quality
fabric, and combines the wearable, softness of jersey
with the everyday practicality of a sweat! There’s a hint
of lycra, which helps this fabric retain its shape
and lasts longer.

Pick of the
PATTERNS
New sewing pattern releases that will
become wardrobe essentials
Shapely silhouette
The Ellis Skirt is designed for stretch
woven fabrics, and comes in two
styles – an iconic denim straight skirt
and a sleek mini-skirt with topstitched
pockets. In order to help curvy sewers
get the best fit, Cashmerette has
included two pelvis fits for apple and
pear body shapes, as well as shaped
seaming and back darts.
To view this pattern– click here
3 new pattern releases
The Joan Trousers are treggings – a mix of trouser style with the comfort of knit fabric
leggings and the Adrienne Blouse is a stylish knit top with billowy statement gathered
sleeves and features a slightly cropped length where the hem hits just below your belly
button. As you can see these patterns look great worn together.
The Hughes Dress features slimming princess seams, sleeves that gather at the cap,
and a gorgeous scoop neckline. The pattern comes with options to make as a peplum
top, above-the-knee length dress or midi dress making it versatile for everyday.
To view this pattern and others from the Friday Pattern Company – click here
A staple piece for your wardrobe
The Jasika Blazer is a tailored jacket with a semi-fitted shape that will never go out of
style. With just the right amount of polish and detail, Jasika is a wardrobe workhorse.
The pattern uses modern speed tailoring methods, fusible interfacings and minimal
hand sewing to make it accessible for everyone. Fun features include a classic notched
collar, shoulder pads, welt pockets and pocket flaps, gorgeous two-piece sleeves and
elbow patches.
Find out more about this pattern from Closet Case Patterns – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by
fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

SEW IN STYLE
3 styles that you will want to sew this season
1THE WRAP
The wrap dress is as
popular this year as
it was last. It’s a style
that flatters all body
shapes and a garment in your
wardrobe that you can rely
on. The Eve wrap dress from
Sew Over It is a versatile wrap
dress with endless potential
and has two completely
different variations in one
pattern. Whether you go
boho romantic for summer
garden parties or sleek and
elegant for everyday – this dress pattern is a must-make.
To view this pattern from Sew Over It – click here
2
ASYMMETRICAL HEM
An asymmetrical
hemline will give a
garment an edgy twist,
and it needn’t be in
the form of a typical
high-low hem. Hems
that hang low in all
directions can draw
your eye. The Floreat
from Megan Nielsen
can be made into a
dress or blouse from
both woven and knit
fabrics. The pattern
features clean lines,
inseam pockets, as well
as multiple sleeve and
hem lengths.
To view this pattern
from Megan Nielsen –
click here
3
BOILERSUIT
Another garment that’s
standing the test of time is the
jumpsuit. This popular all-in-one
alternative, we’re seeing this
season with boilersuit styling
including pockets and front
buttoning. The Yari jumpsuit
is a loose-fit jumpsuit with
four views, which all have
angled patch pockets set into
princess seams, a V-neckline
and a front button closure with
sleeve options.
To view this pattern from
True Bias – click here